K

KALE.  Also known as collard or kail, this member of the cabbage family is dark green, with large, coarse leaves on heads that do not form hearts.  Originating in Mediterranean countries, this is the predecessor of the firm-headed or hearted cabbage.  Curly kale is more popular than the plain-leafed variety.  It can be prepared and cooked in the same way as cabbage, with tough stalks, trimmed off and discarded.  The flavour resembles strong cabbage.

KALTSCHALE.  A Russian dessert consisting of a fresh fruit salad that has been macerated in wine and is covered with a puree of red fruit (strawberries, raspberries and redcurrants).  Is is served in a large bowl that traditionally rests on a dish of crushed ice.  The word kaltshale is German, and its literal meaning is ‘cold cup’.

KALRSCHALE.  Rub l kg (2 l/4 lb, 7 cups) strawberries and 250 g (9 oz 2 cups) very ripe redcurrants through a sieve.  Bring l litre ( l ¾ pints, 4 l/3 cups) light sugar syrup and l/2 bottle of champagne to the boil, then allow to cool.  Add the syrup mixture to the fruit puree.  Peel and remove the seeds or stones (pits) from several different fruits, such as melon or watermelon, apricots, peaches, pears or fresh pineapple.  Cut them into thin slices and sprinkle with lemon juice.  Place all the fruit in a large bowl and pour the liquid puree over it.  Chill until ready to serve.  Add some raspberries at the last moment.

KANGARRO.  A marsupial native to Australia.  Kangaroo meat has long been eaten byAborigines and it was shot as game in Australia during the 19^th century.  It went out of fashion until the latter part of the last century when it lean, dark meat again attracted attention as an alternative to beef.  Farmed kangaroo is available in a variety of prepared cust.  The meat is lean, close-textured and dark, with  full, rich flavour, similar tovenison.  Depending on thecut, kangaroo meat can be grilled (broiled) or pan-fried, roast, braised or stewed.  When using dry cooking methods, it is important not to overcook the meat marinating, barding or larding are good methods of keeping it’s moist.

KASHA.  Alsoknown as kacha.  An eastern European dish, often a type of porridge or gruel, made from crushed or powdered buckwheat.  There are several ways of preparing it; the simplest isto boilit, then serve it as an accompaniment for a savoury main dish in the same way as rice.  In Russia it is baked in the ovenm, mixed withbutter, rolled out and shaped into small pancakes.  These are served with soups or stews, possibly flavoured with cheese, eggs or mush-rooms, or cooked au grating.  In Poland, kaha is also the name for buckwheat, sold crushed and roasted, and for a type of sweet pudding made either from hulled barley(cooked in milk and served with cream) or from semolina (served with melted butter).

POLISH KASHA WITH BARLEY.  Pick over 350 g (12 oz, 1 l/3 cups) pearl barley and blanch in boiling water for 2 minutes.  Bring 3 litres (5 pints, 13 cups) milk and 65 g (2 l/2 oz, 5 tablespoons) butter to the boil, then add the barley.  Bring to the boil, reduce the heat so that the mixture simmers and cook stirring frequently until the barley is soft – about 1 hour.  Take the pan off the heat and add 200 g (7 oz, 1 cup) butter.  Cool for about 10 minutes before stirring in 6 lightly beaten eggs and 100 ml (4 ft. oz., 7 tablespoons) soured (sour) cream.  Pour the mixture into a buttered charlotte mould and cook in a preheated oven at 200 o C (400oF, gas 6) untilset and golden on top.  Serve it in the mould with double (heavy) cream served separately.

RUSSIAN KASHA.  Crush 500 g (18 oz, 3 l/4 cups) fresh buckwheat and soak in sufficient warm water tomake a thick paste.  Season with salt and put it in a deep cake tin (pan) or charlotte mould (traditionally an earthenware not  is used).  Bake in a preheated oven at 180 oC (350 oF, gas 4) for 2 hours.  Remove the thick crust formed on the surface and pour the remaining soft paste into a dish.  Add 65 g (2 l/2oz. 5 tablespoons) butter and mix well with a spatula.  Spread the pasteouton a greased surface, cover it with a board, then press it until it is aboutl cm (l/2 in) thick.  Cut into shapes with a pastry (cookie) cutter and fry in clarified butter until golden brown.  Serve with soup.

RUSSIAN KASHA WITH PARMESAN CHEESE.  Prepare a kashof buckwheat as described.  Spread a thin layer of thesoft paste over the bottomof a buttered gratin dish.  Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and a little melted butter, alternating the layers until all the ingredients are used up.  Smooth the final layer of kasha carefully, thensprinkle withParmesan cheese, top with melted butter and brown in a preheated over at 230 oc(450 of, gas 8).  Serve melted butter separately.

KEBAB.  A dish consiting basically of small pieces of meat threaded on to skewers and grilled or roasted.  It originatedin Turkey and eventually spread to the Balkans and the Middle East.  The name is a shortened form of the Turkish sis kebab, sis meaning skewer  and kebab meaning roast meat.  Sir (or shish) kebab consists of cubes of marinated mutton threaded on to wooden or metal skewers traditionally alternating with cubes of nutrition fat, but the latter is often replaced by large pieces of belly of pork (fat pork).  The skewed meat is grilled over hot embers and usually served with quarters of lemon, yogurt or sourced (sour) cream.  There are many variations of this dish; it may be made with or without vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, onions), or with veal, lamb or even buffalo, or meatballs.  Sometimes the kebabs are slipped off the skewers and served on a bed of rice with chick peas, raw onions and a salad of chopped raw vegetables.

DAGH KEBAB.  Cut boneless veal into even-sized cubes.  Also cut very firm small tomatoes into quarters and seed them.  Cut some  onions into quarters.  Marinate all these ingredients in a little oil containing aromatic herbs.  Thread themeat on to skewers alternating  with the quarters of tomato and onion.  Season, sprinkle withcrumbled thyme and grill (broil) under a less fierce heat than for shish kebab.  Serve with rice pilaf, a green salad or okra.

SHISH KEBAB.  Cut some shoulder or leg of mutton into cubes.  Marinate the meat for 30minutes in a mixture of olive oil and lemon juice seasoned with pepper and salt, thyme, powdered bay leaf and a little finely chopped garlic.  Cut an equal quantity of belly of pork (fat pork) into cubes and blanch them.  Thread the mutton and pork alternately on toskewers and grill (broil) them under a very high heat, or, preferably, over charcoal.  Serve with quarters of lemon and either a green salad or saffron rice.

KEDGEREE.  An English dish that came originally from India.  The word comes from the Hindi word khicari, from Sanskrit khicca, the origin of which is obscure.  It consists of a mixture of rice, cooked flaked fishand hard-boiled (hard-cooked)eggs.  The fish is usually smoked haddock, butit may be salmon or even turbot.  Peas may be added, or theingredients can be bound with a curry-flavoured béchamel sauceseasoned with cayenne pepper and nutmeg.

            The original Indian dish, known as kadgeri, consists of rice garnished with onions, lentils and eggs Fish was added by the British.

KEFALOTIRI.  This well-flavoured ewe’s-milk cheese is made throughout Greece and Cyprus.  A similar cheese sold outside.  Greece is often made with cow’s milk and has a milder flavour.

KEFIR.  The fermented product of camel’s milk, also made from cow’s milk, goat’s milk or sheep’s milk, whole or skimmed, consumed mainly in the Caucasus.  With the addition of a yeast known as ‘kefir seed’, it is matured in bottles.

Young kefir is frothy and has a rather sour taste.  “Strong kefir” (kefir fort) is a fizzy drink with a certain amount of alcohol (2.5% after fermenting for 3 days) and a piquant flavour.  Easy to digest and rich in protein, kefir has the reputation of being responsible for the long life of the inhabitants of the Caucasus.

KELOGG, WILLIAM KEITH.  American industrialist (born Battle Creek, Michigan, l860; died Battle Greek, 1951).  He worked as an assistant to his brother  who was a well-known nutritionist and the director of a hospital specializing in nutritional disorders.  In l894, he discovered a process for making flakes out of grains of maize (corn).  These could be eaten as part of the vegetarian diet recommended by the Seventh Day Adventists, towhichsect bothbrothers belonged.  In 1898, the process was industrialized and in l906 a company was formed tomarket cornflakes.  Ever since then, they have been regarded as an integral part of both the English and American breakfast.

KETCHUP.  A  sweet-and-sour condiment with one flavour predominating, usually based on tomatoes, but sometimes on mushrooms or walnuts.  Tomato ketchup is very popular inBritain and NorthAmerica and is the variety usually sold in France; it is used to flavourmeat sauces or seved with fish, hamburgers, eggs, rice and pasta.  It is made from tomato puree (paste), vinegar, sugar and spieces.

KETTLE.  A container with a spout, handle and lid, used for boiling water.  Kettles are made of aluminium, stainless steel, chrome-plated copper, enamel, Pyrex, plastic and other materials.  They may have steam whistles, which blow when the water boils.

            Ancient kettles, known in French as conquemars, were often verylarge and were made of earthen-ware or, more usually, copper.  These are now used only as ornaments.

            A milk kettle or boiler is a cylindrical pot used for boiling milk.  It has a perforated lid designed tos topthe milk boiling over.

KHGLODETZ.  A Russian dish of jellied meats.  The meats-generally beff, veal and chicken, or perhaps pig’s trotters (feet) and knuckle of veal-are cooked in stock, placed in a dish, garnished with slices of carrot, tarragon and dill, then covered with aspic.  When the aspic has set, the kholodez is unmoulded and served with gherkins, plums or pears macerated in vinegard.

KID.  A young goat.  Only the very young males (six weeks t four months old) are slaughtered for meat, as the females are reserved for milk production.  They are available from Mid-March until the beginning of May.  Kid’s meat is insipid and rather soft, similar to that of milk lamb.  It is generally, eaten roasted and, in most recipes (particularly in Corsica and Spain), well seasoned and spiced.

KIDNEYS.  A type of red offal (organ meat).  Ox and calves’ kidneys are multilobed, while pigs’ and sheep’s kidneys are shaped rather like a haricot (navy) bean.  The kidneys of young animals, such as calves, heifers and lambs, have the most delicate flavour; pigs’ kidneys are rather strongly flavoured, while those of the ox and sheeptend to be tough as well as strongly flavoured (it is best to boil the latter for a few minutes and drain them before preparing them for cooking).

            In all cases, the transparent membrane that surrounds the kidneys must be removed so that they do not shrink when cooked.  Any blood vessels, together with the central core of fat, must also be removed.  When grilled (broiled) or sautéed, they should be served when still pink, otherwise they may become tough.  They can also be braised I n a medium over.  Calves kidneys are particularly good when fried (whole or sliced) without trimming the surrouding fat, which gradually melts; they are ready when golden brown.

            Cocks’ kidneys, which are now rare, feature with  cockscombs in severalclassic garnishes.

CALVES KIDNEYS CALF’S KIDNEY A LA BONNE FEMME.  Fry 50 g (2 oz, ½ cup) coarsely diced streaky (slab) bacon and 4 small onions in butter in a small flame-proof casserole.  Remvoe the bacon and onions from the casserole, and in the same butter toss a whole calf’s kidney withmost of the outer far removed, just to stiffen it.  Fry 12 small new potatoes in butter until they are three-quarters cooked, then add the diced bacon, the onions and thekidney, and season withsalt and pepper.  Continue thecooking in a preheated voer at 240 oC (475 oF, gas 9) for about 15 minutes.  Just before serving, sprinkle with 3 tablespoons veal stock.  Serve the kidney in the casserole.  It may be garnished with mushrooms tossed in butter if desired.

CALVES’ KIDNYES ALI-BABA.  Remove most of the surrounding fat from 4 small calves; kidneys, season with salt and pepper, and coat them with strong mustard.  Arrange in a lighly buttered ovenproof dish and cook in a preheated oven at 220oC  (425 oF, gas 7) for 7-8 minutes.

            Meanwhile, put 500 ml (l7 fl. Oz, 2 cups) double (heavy) cream into a saucepan, together withsome grated lemon rind and l/2 teaspoon ground pepper.  Bring to the boil, add the kidneys  and cook verygently for a further 8minutes.  Drain the kidneys, put on a plate, cut each 8 pieces and arrange in a hot serving dish.  Pour the juices that have collected on the plate into the sauce and put the pan over a high serving dish.  Pour the juices that have collected on the plate intothesauce and put the pan over a high heat.  Finishthe sauce and put the pan over a high heat.  Finish the sauce with a few drops of brandyand finally beat in 75 g (3 oz, 6 tablespoons) butter, cut into small pieces.  Adjust the seasoning and pour the sauce over the kidneys.  Serve very hot.

CALVES’ KIDNEYS COLIOURE.  Braise 4 calves kidneys in a covered sauce pan on a bed of vegetables.  When they are half-cooked, remove them from the pan and rim off the fat.  Continue to cook the vegetables until they begin to brown, then deglaze the pan with 60 ml (2 fl oz, l/4 cup) white wine and boil down to reduce the cooking liquid by half.  Put the kidneys into a small pan with 40 g (l l/2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter, some chopped shallots and l2 well-pounded anchovy fillets.  Simmer until cooked.  Strain the cooking juices over the kidneys and heat through for a few moments.  Serve sprinkled with chopped parsley.

CALVES’ KIDNEYS WITH CHICKEN LIVERS.  Skin 4 calves’ kidneys and remove the fat.  Halve them and chop into small pieces.   Slice 12 chicken livers.  Using a tinned copper saucepan or a stainless steel saucepan with a copper base, fry the kidneys and the chicken livers in a knob of butter for about 5 minutes, taking care not to let thenm brown.  While they are still pink, flame them with 5 tablespoons.  Armagnac and set aside, keeping them hot.

            Pour l50 ml (l/4 pint, 2/3 cup) port and 500 ml (l7 fl oz, 2 cups) red Gigondas wine into the cooking liquor.  Boildown to reduce, then thicken with l5 g (l/2 oz. L tablespoon) beurre manie.  When the sauce is ready (about 15 minutes), strain it.  Arrange the kidneys and chicken livers in the serving dish, then coat with the sauce, adjust the seasoning and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

GRILLED CALF’S KIDNEY.  Remove some of the fat from a calf’s kidney, slit it lengthways without cutting it through completely, and keep it open and flat by threading it on to 2 small metal skewers.  Season with salt and pepper, brush lightly with oil and cook rapidly under a hot grill (broiler).  Serve with Bercy butter, maitre d’hotel butter or anchovy butter

ROAST CALF’S KIDNEY WITH MUSTARD.  Removesome of the fat from a calf’s kidney, season withsalt and pepper, and spread with mustard.  Place it in a small greased flameproof casserole and roast it in a preheated oven at 240 oC (475oF, gas 9), for about 15 minutes.  Drain the kidney and keep hot.  Pour the fat from the casserole, add l00 ml. (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons).  Madeira and boil down to reduce byhalf.  Off the heat, mix in l tablespoon mustard, then heat and whisk vigorously without boiling.  Replace the kidney in the casserole and heat through before serving.

SAUTEED CALFS KIDNEY WITH MADEIRA AND THREE MUSTARDS.

Remove some of the fat from a calf’s kidney, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 10-15 minutes in a small pan with a little oil and butter (this is known as cooking a la coque).  Drain all the fat away and flame the kidney with a generous liqueur glass of young good-quality with a generous liqueur glass of young good-quality Armanac.  Drain the kidney and slice it thinly on a plate; keep hot.

            Pour l00 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) Madeira into the pan and oil to reduce the liquid by half.  Pour any kidney juices on the plate into the sauce, boil rapidly for a few mintues, add the kidney and place the pan over a very low heat.  Donot let it boil again.

            Blend 50 g (2 oz l/4 cup), butter with a mixture of Dion, Campagne and Bordeaux mustards.  Add this mixture, a little at a time, to the pan, stirring constantly, so that the sauce becomes smoth and creamy.  This is the most critical process in the whole preparation and should be carried out away from the heat.  Serve the kidney with sautéed potatoes.

SAUTEED CALF’S KIDNEY WITH WHOLEGRAIN MUSTARD.  Finely chop l large shallot and place in a pan with l bay leaf and a sprig of thyme.  Add 200ml (7 fl. Oz, ¾ cup dry white wine and boil until reduced  by half. Add 500 ml (l7 fl oz, 2 cups) veal stock and 200 ml (7 fl oz. ¾ cup) double 9heavy) cream.   Reduce untilthe sauce has a coating consistency.  Stir in l teaspoon Dijon mutard and strain the sauce througha fine sieve.  Then stir in l/2 teaspoon wholegrain Meaux mustard.  Taste for seasoning and dot the surface of thesauce with a little butter to preven a skin from forming, then set aside in a bain marie to keep hot.

            Remove the fat from l calf’s kidney slide it in half lengthways and trim away any core or remaining fat, then cut the kidney halves crossways into thick slices.  Season withsalt and pepper.  Brown the pieces of kidney in a hot oil in a frying pan for 2 minutes on each side, then transfer to a sieve and leave to drain for about 10minutes so that any blood drips away.

            Reheat the kidneys in the sauce without boiling.  Serve sprinkled with snipped chives.  Serve with a potato galette, gratin dauphinois or tagliatelle and buttered spinach.

OX KIDNEYS OX KIDNEY WITH LARDONS.  Stir an ox kidney (or preferably a heifer’s kidney) in half and take out the central core.  Cut the kidney into think slices.  Sprinkle 250 g (9 oz, 3 cups) washed sliced mushrooms with a little lemon juice.  Cut 200 g (7 oz) rindless streaky (slab) bacon into thin strips; chop 2 shallots.  Melt 25 g (l oz, 2 tablespoons)butter in a saute pan, add the sliced kidney and brown quickly over a high heat.  Then add the mushrooms, the bacon lardoons and the shallots, and cook until all the ingredients are lightly browned.  Season withsalt and pepper, lower the heat cover the pan and cook for about 20 minutes.  Then add a small glass of Madeira and 150 ml (l/4 pint, 2/3 cup) crème fraiche and reduce the sauce over a high heat.  Pour the preparation into a serving dish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

PIGS’ KIDNEYS PREPARATION OF PIGS’ KIDNEY.   Toreduce the rather strong taste of these kidneys, skin them, cut them open without separating the halves, take out the while separating them under running water, cover them  with milk and leave them in a cool place for 3-4 hours.  They can then be grilled (broiled) or sautéed (with bacon lardoons or mushrooms) in the same way as calves’ kidneys.

Lambs’ kidneys lambs’ kidneys a l’anglaise.  Remove the skin of the kidneys and cut them in half without separating the halves completely.  Remove the white central core and tubes.  Thread the kidneys on skewers, pushing the skewer through each half of the kidney to keep them open.  Season with salt and pepper, brushwith melted butter and (if desired) rol them in fresh breadcrumbs.  Grill (broil) the kidneys under a high heat for about 3 minutes on each side, then arrange in a long dish withgrilled rashers (slices) of bacon, small boiled new potatoes and fresh watercress.  Put a pat of maitre d’horel butter on each half kidney.

LAMBS’ KIDNEYS SAUTEED WITH MUSHROOMS.  Clean and slice 8 large button mushrooms and sprinkle with lemon juice.  Clean 8 kidneys, cut them in half, season with saltand pepper, and sauté them quickly in very hot butter.  (Donot overcook; ensure that they remain pink.)  Drain and keep hot in a serving dish.

            Saute thesliced mushrooms in the same butter, drain them and arrange around the kidneys.  Keep hot. Pour 250 ml (8 fl. Oz, l cup)stock into the pan and boil down to reduce by one-third; add 100 ml (4 fl. Oz, 7 tablespoons) Madeira, port, champane or Riesling and again reduce by one-third.  Thicken with l teaspoon arrowroot then add 40g (l l/2 oz, 3 tablespoons) butter.  Pour the sauce over the kidneys and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

KIELBASA.  A term used for any freshsausage in Polant, but also sued elsewhere todescribe a spiced, garlic-seasoned sausage, sold fresh, smoked or fullycooked.

KILKA.  A Russian fish similar to the sprat, three species of which are fished intensively in the Caspian Sea.  It is sometimes eaten fresh, butis usuallyfrozen at sea and then canned in oil, salted or marinated.  It is served as a cold hors d’oeuvre with slices of lemon.

KINGFISH.  A member of the Trevallie family, the yellow tail(Seriola grandis) is the best of the Australian species and a prime angling fish, growing to a maximum length of 2.5 m (8 ft).  It has fine yellow fins as well as the yellow tail a blue-black back and a stripe along its body  Steaks are cut from larger  fish, which can be coarse and dry if too large; the smaller fish are best and can be baked whole.

KIPPER.  Smoked herring, prepared by splitting and gutting, then salting thefish in brine before smoking, traditionally over oak.  This Britishspeciality originates from Northumberland, where the method of smoking was first used on kippers in the l840s.  Before then, ‘kipper’ was the term used to describe a male salmon that had just finished spawning, while ‘kippering’ was the term for themethdo used to smoke salmon.  The kipper replaced the red herring in  popularity, the latter being a Yarmouth speciality, highly salted and smoked untildry, a condition in which they kept well.

            Kippers are traditionally prepared by jugging-y placing in a tall jub (pitcher) and having freshly boiled water poured over them.  They are left to cook gently in the hot water for about l0 minutes, then drained and served.  Poaching for about 5 minutes in smemring water is another method kippers can also be grilled.  They are usually served topped with a small pat of butter and accompanied by thinly sliced bread and butter.

KIR.  Originally, a Burgundy mixture ofdry white Aligote wine and cassis (the blackcurrant liqueur for which Burgundy is famous).  Referred to as vin blame cassis, it became associated with the late Canon Felix Kir, a hero of the French Resistance, who, as Mayor of Dijon, insisted on it being the only drink offered at official receptions.  Kit Royale was originally made with champagne, but like ordinary Kir is now based on any dry sparkling wine.  Kir Communard is red wine plus cassis; in theBeaujolais region this mix is known as a rince cocbon.

KIRSCH.  A white spirit (alcool blanc) and a true fruit brandy distilled from cherries; it should not be confused with the sweetened cheery brandies made by most of the great liqueur establishments.  The type of cherry used depended originally on where the distillate was made, but nowadays firms reputed for their kirsch, such as those in Alsace, TrancheComte and the Black Forest in Germany, may have to buy in fruit to supplement the local supplies.  The kernels of the cherries are included in the mash.  As with many spirits that are widely used for culinary purposes, there are less expensive types of kirsch, which are used for flaming pancakes, incorporating with whipped cream and fillings for pastries and cakes, and in confectionery.  The top-quality liqueurs are particularly appreciated as a digestif.

APPLIES WITHCREAM AND KIRSCH.  Peel and core crispsweet dessert (eating) apples, sprinkle them with lemon juice and cook them in boiling vanilla-flavoured syrup until transparent.  Drain and leave tocool.  Mix very cold fresh double (heavy or whipping cream with a quarter of its volume of very cold kirsh then whip until the whisk leaves a trail.  Pour this over the apples.

KISSEL. A Russian dessert made from sweetened red fruit puree thickened with arrowroot or flourand sometimes flavoured withwhite wine.  Kissel can be served warm or cold with crème fraiche.

KISSEL WITH CRANBERRIES.  Put l kg (2 l/4 lb. 9 cups) cranberries through a vegetabes mill.  Mix with 2-2.5 litres (3 l/2-4 l/4 pits, 9-ll cups) water, pour the mixture through a cloth into a bowland wring out the cloth to extract the maximum quantity of juice.  Alternatively, puree the fruit and water in a blender.  Mi 50 g (2 oz. L/2 cup) ptato flour, cornflour (cornstarch) or tapioca into the juice and pourinto a saucepan.  Add 200 g (7 oz. L cup) caster (superfine) sugar and bring to the boil.  Stir constantly until the mixture thickens and becomes transparent.  Pour into a fruit bowl and serve warm or cold.

KISSING CRUS.  In baking, thekissing crust is thepale, slightly underdone, portion of a loaf of bread that was in contact with the loaf next toit during baking.

KITCHEN.  A room set aside for the preparation of food.  The kitchen as a separate room in a house first appeared in about the 5^th century BC, but in ancient times it was alsoassociated with religiouspractices, thehearthwhere meat and vegetables were cooked was also associated with religious practices, the hearth where meat and vegetables were cooked was also the altar of thecult of the household gods.  Roman kitchens in great residences were particularly well equipped, including a water tank, sink, cavities made in worktops for pounding spieces and bronze tripods.

            In chateaux in medieval France, the kitchen was one of the most important rooms and the scene of constant activity.  Very spacious and endowed with one or several gigantic chimneys, particularly in abbeys (Fontevrault and palaces (Avignon, Dijon), it extended into numerousannexes (including bread  store, fruit store and cupbearer’s room).  In middle-class houses and farms, on the other hand, the kitchen was usually the communal room, where guests were received, cooking was doen and meals were taken.

            In the reign of Louis XV, when the culinary art underwent a true renewal, the kitchen of a noble house could be luxurious, as the Abbe Coyer proves (in Bagatelles morales, l755, quoted by Franklin):  I am dragged into kitchens and made toadmire the taste of the master; it is the only room in the house which is pointed out to the curious.  Elegance, solidity, cleanliness conveniences of all kinds, nothing is missing from this vast workshop of Camus, a modern masterpiece where architecture has enjoyed displaying its resources.

            In the l9th century, technical progress improved utensils and above all, therange, transformed the kitchen into a veritable laboratoire (as great chefs called it).  A room distinctly separated from the rest of the house; possessing service entrance, it was sometimes situated in the basement (particularly in Victorian England) or at the end of a long corridor.  In middle-class homes, it was thedomain of the housewife, as epitomized by the German hausfrauin the cliché of the “three K’s:  Kinder Kirche and Kuche (children, church, kitchen).

            The 20^th century saw progress in lighting and heating, improvements in interior decoration, and theintroduction of refrigerators, freezers, dish-washers and various cooking appliances, including  microwave ovens.  For many people, the kitchen remains the symbols of the home.

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT.  Batterie de cuisine.  All utensils and accessories used to prepare and cook food.  Of widely varying shapes and materials, such utensils range from skewers, which are as old as the invention of fire, to the lattest applications of modern technology.

Origins.  We know very little about the first kitchen utensils.  The Eguptians, theAssyrians and the Perssians principally used earthenware and bronze vessels big-bellied in shape, with and without handles.  They also used the spit and, for taking cakes and biscuits (cookies), they had baking dishes, rather like those we use now adays.

            The Jews did not generally use earthenware vessels for cooking purposes, most of their pots and pans were made of metal.  To extract the meat from the big pots in which the food destined to be offered to God was prepared, they used a big two-pronged fork theforerunner of the modern table fork, which did not make its appearance until the l7thcentury.

            The Greeks, for their culinary preprations, used greatly improved bronze, iron or silver vessels.  They also had some in earthenware.  Almost all these vessels were conical and not very deep.  They had lids and handles or detachable rings.

            Among theprincipal kitchen utensils used by the Greeks was the chystra, a kind of earthenware pan used for cooking meats and stews.  It may have been in this utensil that the famus Spartan broths were prepared.  Or perhaps they were made in the Kakkabi, a fairly large three-legged pot.  The Greeks also had another pot, which can be considered as the prototype of the earthenware casserole.  Filled with fruit that probably had been cooked in wine and sweetened with honey, this dish was carried to the altar of Dionysus, on the third day of the feast of Anthesteria, the famous festival in honour of the God.

            The Greeks alsohad bronze casseroles, which resembled those now in use.  For cooking pieces of meat and fish they had a frying pan called a legamon.  In order to place all these metalor earthen-ware receptacles on the fire, the Greeks used a triangular support, the tripod.

            Kitchen utensils used by the Romans were similar to those of the Greks, and it was Greek cooks who brought the art of cooking to Rome.  The Romans, who were sensual, voluptuous people, with a great love of luxury in all things, made kitchen utensils not only of bronze but also of silver.  Among the treasures of Bosco-Beale, which are kept in the Louvre in Paris, various kitchen utensils of this type can be seen.  Kitchen utensils used by the romans included the chibanus, an earthenware utensil with holes pierced in it, used for cooking various dishes, mainly pastry, in hot ashes; craticula, a grill for cooking meat and fish on the glowing embers of a fire; and the apala, a dish withcavities of varying sizes, which was used for cooking eggs.

            The Gauls and the Gallo-Romans had earthenware and metal kitchen utensils somewhat similar to those of theGreeks and Romans.  The Celtw knew nothing of the refinements of thesumptous cookery of Imperial Rome and their pots and pans were rudimentary.  With thecoming of the Merovingian era, kitchen utensils began toimrpove.  Some specimens of themagnificent bronze vessels n which the food was prepared have survived and can be seen in museums.

            From reading Charlemagne’s Capilaries, it seems evident that in succeeding centuries, kitchen utensils were improved still further.  After the Crusades, a great number of richly worked metal utensils-owers, silvers, cauldrons – were brought to Europre and served as models for the artisans of the West in the manufacture ofmagnificent utensils.

            Among the many utensils used was the h orsehair  sieve, or tammy, a large strainer with a h anle, which was used for draining foods, iron hooks on which food was hung pots and kittles of all thebaking tins (pans); saucepans; frying pans (skillets0: and a lage metal vessel used as a water container; a pot with a  handle and a long curbed spout; funnels, mostly in copper; a greater use for granting nutmeg and cheese gridings, mortars; spice-grinders; various ladles, long-bladed knives, and varius other utensils that are still in use in the present day.

Modern times.  Many of the basic utensils we know today already existed during the Renaissance, and about twocenturies ago, Brillat-Savarin, who followed the latest developments of his era very closely, owned an economical cooking pot; a roating shell, a pendulum spit roaster and a steamer. Since teen, technical improvements and the emergence of new materials 9not to mention the imagination of manufacturers) have led to great variety in modern kitchen equipment.

            Electrical appliances have completely transformed professional and domestic kitchens.  Food mixers, blenders and food processors replace a battery of individual pieces of equipment.  At a domestic level, smaller households and a less formal approach to food, meals and cooking has changed the typed of food preparation carried out.  This has led to a reduction in the number of items of equipment and in general, the use of versatile appliances pots, pans and dishes that can be adapted for many techniques or to prepare a variety of dishes.

KITCHEN SCALES.  An instrument used for measuring weight, essential for weighing ingredients and keeping to the correct proportions, especially in pstry making.  In home cooking, the traditional balance with two pans and a series of weights was superceded by spring-balance scales.  Modern electronic kitchen scales weigh with accuracy to 5 grams.

KIWANO.  Fruit of a plant from the Cucurbitaceae family, originally from South Africa.  Also known as horned melon’ or horned cucumer’ after the little spines on its skin, the kiwano has a taste reminiscent of cucumber and melon.  It is eaten cold or its flesh can be pulped and the juice then drunk.

KIWI FRUIT.  A fruit about the size of a large egg, with a greenish-brown hairy skin.  The plant is a climber and belong to the genus.  Actinidia.  It originated in China, ut is now cultivated chiefly in New Zealand thence the name and also in /California, Western France and Israle.  The flesh is pale, green, highly perfurmed and juicy, with a slightly acidic taste.  The fruit is rape when soft to the touch.  It is used I n various ways.  Halved and eaten from the skin as a dessert; peeled and cut into cubes or slices for fruit salads and tarts, and as a garnish for roast quail, baked mackerele or fried pork chops.  It is also an ingredient in a sweet and soursauce served with cold meat or fish.

FRUIT SALAD WITH KIWI FRUIT.  Choose the fruit according to the season.  Divide oragnes and grapefruits into segments, then peel and remove the pitch.  Peel, core and slice apples and pears, and sprinkle with lemon juice.  Peel peaches and melon and cut intocubes; sprinkle thepeaches with lemon juice.  Hull strawberries and rasphberries.  Peel and slcie the kiwi fruit, which should represent a quarter of the total volume of fruit.

Place all thefruit (exceptfor the rasphberries) in a large salad bowl  sprinkle with sugar and moisten with kirsch or another fruit-based liquer.  Leave in a cool place until ready to serve.  Add the raspberries at the last moment.

            The whole strawberries can be replaced by strawberry puree; put thefruit through a blender, sieve the puree, sweeten with sugar and pour it over the other fruit just before serving.

PORK CHOPS WITH KIWI FRUIT.  Fry 4 pork chops in butter.  Meanwhile peel peel 8 kiwi fruit, cut them into thick slices or quarters, and sprinkle with a little lemon juice.  Drain the chops and keep them hot in the serving dish.  Add the fruit to the frying pan, cover the pan and heat in the pan juices.  Arrange the fruit around the chops.  Deglaze the p an with l00 ml (4 fl. Oz. 7 tablespoons) pineapple juice and an equal quantity of stock.  Boil down toreduce the sauce to a thick syrup.  Add a generous pinch of pepper and pour over the chops.

KLOSEE.  A German and Australian dish consisting of spiced dumplings made from a mixture of flour, breadcrumbs or potato puree; eggs, milk and, sometimes, chopped ham.  The  dumplings are poached in boiling water and served on their own with melted butter and fried breadercrumbs or used as a garnish for soups or dishes in a sauce.  A similar Polishdish, klouski, consists of dumplings made from a mixture of flour, eggs, sugar and yeast, which are poached, coated with noisetle butter and served as a dessert.

RECIPE

Klosse a la viennoise

Remove the crust from 550g (19 oz.) brown bread.  Cut the crumb into small dice and soak the diced bread  inboiling milk.  Cook 175 g ( 6 0z. 1 cup chopped onions in 15 g ( ½ oz. 1 tablespoon) butter in a covered frying pan soft.  Add the onions to the bread toether with 1 tablespoon chopped chervil, 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon and 250 g (9 oz. 1 ½ cups) chopped ham.  Bind which 1 tablespoon flour and 3 lightly beaten eggs, and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.  Divide the mixture into 50 g (2 oz) pieces and roll them into balls.  Coat with flour and poach for about 12 minutes in a large pan of salted water.  Fry some fine bread crumbs in butter.  Drain the dumpling and splrinkle them with the breadcrumbs.

KNACKWURST.  A type of fresh German sausage similar to a frankfunter, but shorter and thicker.  It is made with lean pork, 30 % beef and 20% fat pork, finely minced (ground) and falvoured with cumin and parakley.  Saltpeter is added to give it a pinkish colour and the sausage is eaten poached or grilled (brided).  The name a drived from the German knacken (to m,ake a cracking sounds, referring so the sound made when the sausage is bitten into.

KNEADING.  The process by which a mixture or dough is made smoother and, sometimes, more elastic.  In bread doughs or other yeast doughs, made using strong flour with a  high gluten content, kneading develops the gluten in the flour.  This makes the dough tough and elastic, traping gasd produced by fermenting yeast and making the risen dought  light in texture.  Yeast doughs are usually kneaded by applying a firm pressing, turning and stretching action with the hand.  They are usually kneaded for about 10 minutes, until quite springy, light, brief kneading from a few seconds to a minute is enough to make a soft baking powder dough smooth, for preparing scones or soda bread.  Over-kneading this type of dough will toughen it and spoil its texture.  Pasta dough and similar stiff mixtures are kneaded firmly and for almost as long as yeast dough, until smooth.

KNEADING TROUGH   The large wooden trough in which bread dough was kneaded.  In the l9th century, it was replaced in the bakery trade by the mechanical kneader.  The latter is made of stainless steel and the dough is continuously stirred y rotating metal arms.  Domestic electric food mixers and food processors have special attachments for kneading dough.  Some electric hand miexers are fitted with attachments suitable for kneading light and semi-liquid dough or batter, buttheir motors are not powerful enough for thick doughs.

KNIFE.  A cutting instrument with a handle and a blade.  The part of the blade that fits into the handle is called the ‘tang’ and is encircled with a thick band of steel called a ‘bolster’.  Between the tang and the blade, there is a projection, the guard or rocker, which prevents the blade from touching the table surface when the knife is lying flat.  When a knife has no bolster, the blade is held in place by two plates that form the handle.  Before stainless steel came into general use, the blades were made of carbon steel except for fruit knives and fish knives, whichwere made of silver.  Table knives match thestyle of the forks and spoons.

            The ancestor of the knife was a sharpened piece fo flint, and the first blades were made of bronze and laterof iron.  In Greek and Roman times, knives were luxury articles, but were already fairly similar to modern knives.  Until the end of the l6th century, knives were used both for cutting and for spearing food, particularly meat, and to cut bread.  A knives were used both for cutting and for spearing food, particularly meat, and tocutbread.  A knife was a personal object that the host would not necessarily make available to his guests.  It was therefore worn on the belt.  The colour of the handle could vary according to the time of year (ivory for Easter, bony for Lent).  The first round-ended knives appeared around l630 as tehsocial conventions of the time demanded that the knife should no longer be used as a toothpick.  Handles were made of wood, hard stone, horn, shell or emtal, and were often decorated with grotesque figures or fantastic animals.  Later, they were made of gold and silver plate and sometimes even of porcelain or china, especially in the l8th century.  In the l7th century table knives began to differ according to their use.

            Now  a days, a standard formal set of serving knives includes knives for cutting meat, for serving fish, for serving cheese (curved with a double-pointed end) and for serving cakes.  Bread knives  have teeth along one edge like a saw.  There are also electric knives with sawlike edges that are used for cutting meat.  In a traditional formal setting, each person at thetable has a large knife (or table knife), sometimes a steak knife (with a serrated or special cutting, edge), and small knives of various types according to the type of dish being served (grapefruit, fish, cheese, fruit or dessert).  Butter knifes are especially designed for spreading and h ave blunt edges and a rounded end.

KITCHEN KNIVES.  A set of knives is a personal to a chef as an instrument is to a musician, their weight, balance and shape are all important features.  A standard chef’s set comprises the following main items, many of which are also likely tobe found in a domestic kitchen.

            All-purpose knife.  The smallest and most frequently used kitchen knife, with a narrow pointed balde, used for peeling vegetables and fruit and many other tasks.

            Boning knife.  Used mostly by butchers but also by cooks, this is a small knife with a shrot blade that is wide near the h andle and sharplypointed at the end.

            Carving Knife Large, with a long, wide, sharply pointed blade.

            Chef’s Kitchen Knife.  With a very wide, stiff, sharplypointed blade, for carving, slicing, shredding and chopping, pointed blade for filleting fish.

            Ham knife.  With a long, flexible blade rounded at the end, which may be smooth, pitted or flutted, for carving ham and cold or hot meat.

            Slicing Knife.  Specieally designed for vegetables.  Various small tools complete the set:  a potato peeler (or parer) for peeling vegetables and fruits; a tomato knife, with a very fine saw edge; an oyster knife, with a short thick pointed blade protected by a guard; a knife for a scraping lemon zest and a cannelle knife for flutting.  Knives used in patisseries include the long  round-ended spreading knife; a palette knife (spatula), pliable with no cutting ede, for lifting tarts and pancakes; and a saw-edged knife for cutting biscuits (cookies), cakes and briocaes.

            Many knives are designed specially for use in commercial cookery and butchery.

Chevalier for drawing the sinews from meat.

Chip knife.  With small perpendiculr blades spaced at regular intervals, used for cutting potato slices into chips (French fries).  (If the blades are closer together, it is a julienne knife.)

Chopper.  With a very thick, rectangular blade for breaking up bones.

Cleaver.  With an almost rectangular blade, fine and rounded, used particularly for cutting up saddles and loins of mutton and pork.

Fish knife.  With a serrated edge for cutting large pieces.

Frozen Food Knife.  A strong knife or saw for frozen foods, with a thick serrated blade, irregularly indented on one or both sides, for sawing through frozen foods.

Lardon Knife for cutting fat into bards and lardoons, fitted with milled screws for adjusting the thickness of the slices.

Meat Knife  in the form of a spatulate chopper, for separating minced (ground) meat and sausage meat.

Onion Knife.  Possibly with a transparent plastic hood over the blade to prevent tears.

Salami Knife.  With a saw-edged blade at an angle to the handle, used for thinly slicing all firm-textured chareuteric.

Smoked-Salmon Knife.  With a long, flexible, serrated blade.

KNOCK BACK (PUNCH DOWN).  To briefly and lightly knead a yeast doughafter the first proving or rising.  By folding the dough over on to itself several times, the gas is knockedout and thedough flattened.  It is then shaped and put to rise in its finished shape.  This process is sometimes carried out twice during the preparation of the dough and improves the final result.  Fast action easy-blend dried yeats are used to make one-stage doughs, without any knocking ack and a signle rising process in the finished shape.

KNODEL.  Also known as knodl.  A type of sweet or savoury dumpling found all over eastern Europe  In Alsace and Germany, knodel are small dumplings made from pasta dough and served with cream or melted butter.  The dough may be enriched with bone marrow to produce markkmodel or with pureed liver toform leberdemodel.  They are served as a hot entrée or as a garnish.  In the Czech Republic and Sovakia, knodel may be made from read-crumbs soaked with milk, from potato puree, or from  yeast dough, mixed with chopped onions and meat.

            The size and shape varies some knodel are formed into sausages, which are poached and then sliced.  The Australian ziretschenkmodel are large plum fritters eaten as a dessert.  Another type of dessert knodel consists of squares of dough filled with stewed cherries or apricots, formed into dumplings and poached in boiling water.  These are served with melted butter  and sugar, and may be sprinkled with poppy seeds or chopped almonds.

KNORR, CARL HEINRICH.  German industrialist (born Meedorf, l800; died Heilbronn, l875).  His second marriage, to a wealthy lady farmer, enabled him to set up, in l838, a small industrial plant for roasting coffee and chicory.  After his death, his two sons expanded the business and began to manufacture pea, lentil, haricot (navy) bean and sago flours, which were marketed in packets.  These were the precursors of today’s packet (dehydrated) soups.

KNUCKLE.  Also known as shin, that part of the leg of an animal careass lying below the thigh or the shoulder.  In France, shin of beef is called the gitegite, and shin of mutton corresponds to the manche de gigot (see gigot).  In veal, the fore or hind knuckle is gelatinous and lean; the bone is rich in marrow.  Boned and cubed, it is added to sautéed and braised dishes and blanquettes; whole, it can e coked in stock with vegetales or form part of a thick meat and vegetable soup.  Osso bucco is made from slices of veal knuckle.  Pork knuckle, or jambonmeau, can be roasted braised or boiled like a ham, but it is less tender.  The fore knuckle can be braised, boiled or cut up and stewed, a semi-salted pork knuckle is an excellent addition to saucerkraut, meat and vegetable soups, and dishes that require a slightly salty flavour.

KNUCKLE OF VEAL A LA PROVENCALE.  Cut about 800 g ( l  ¾ lb) veal knuckle (shank) into slices 4 cm ( l l/2 in) thick and season with salt and pepper.  Brown in a sauté pan in 3 tablespoons very hot olive oil.  Chop l50 g (5 oz) onions finely and fry until golden in the sauté pan; add 575 g ( l l/4 lb.) peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped tomatoes-or 500 g (18 oz)tomatoes and l tablespoon tomato puree (paste) – together with 150 ml (l/4 pint, 2/3 cup) dry white wine and a bouquet garni.  Stir well, then add 100 ml (4 fl. Oz, 7 tablespoons) stock or consommé and 2 crushed garlic cloves.  Cover the pan and cook gently for about  l l/4 hours, then remove the lid and reduce the liquid for l0 minutes.  Adjust the seasoning.

KNUSPER.  A large cinnamon-flavoured shortcake covered with chopped almonds and crushed lump sugar.  An Austrian speciality, it is cut into squares or rectangles and eaten with tea or coffee.  The name is derived from the German kunsprig, meaning crunchy.

KOFTA.  The term for a meatball or small meat patty which may be round, oval or sausage-shaped and large or small.  They can be grilled (broiled), fried or baked, served plain or simmered in a sauce.  Dishes of this type are made in North Africa, in Mediterranean countries, through Central Europe, Asia and India.  Kofia is the general term and the one commonly used for Indian dishes, but a variety of names are used – in Greece they are known as kefte (or keftbedes in the plural); in Turkey they may be kofte; and in Morocco kefet.

            Whatever the name, the mixture is likely to be finely minced (ground) meat, mixed with onions and spices, Grains such as cooked rice, may be added to the mixture and egg may be used to bind it.  The kofta maybe stuffed; for example, a piece of cheese may be placed in the middle of the mixture as it is shaped, and Indian narisi kofta consists of a spicy minced lamb mixture shaped around a hard-boiled (hard-cooked ) egg.

            Vegetable kofia are also made; for example, in Indian cookery there are excellent versions made with cooked pulses or with vegetables, such as cooked peas.

KOHLRABI.  A  vegetablesof the cabbage family whose fleshy stalk swells at the base like a turnip.  The round swollen stem is the edible part.  Tender when young, kohlrabi is prepared like turnip or celeriac and may be eaten raw or cooked.

KONBU.  Kelp, an edible seaweed frequently used in Japanese cookery.  The large black leaves are dried when rehydrated, they are widely used, for example, toflavour dashi, the light stock, or as a flavouring in many dishes.  Kelp is also finely shredded and coked or marinated, then servd as an accompaniment or garnish.

KORMA.  A  mildly spiced Indian dish thickened with  poppy seeds and/or nuts, such as cashew nuts or almonds.  Yogurt and/or cream enrich the sauce.  Cubes of lean emat or chicken may be the main ingredients for a korma.

KOSHER.  Describing food that is permitted to be eaten according to Jewish dietary laws (the word is Hebrew meaning permitted, ‘ritually correct’.)  Fruit and vegetables can be eaten without further preparation, but there are strict rules governing the eating of meat.  The Old Testament distinguishes between tabor (authorized meat) and tame (prohibited meat).  Rabbinical proscriptions forbid the eating of pork,  game, horsemeat, shellfish, fish without scales (eels and snakes, as well as camel, hippopotamus and bear.  Fermented drinks are alsoforbiden except for wine, which is subject to certain ruels.  If a kosher food comes into contact with ne

Indian cookery, there are excellent versions made with cooked pulses or with vegetables, such as cooked peas.

KOHLRABI A vegetable of the cabbage family whose fleshy stalk swells at the base like a turnip. The round swollen stem is the edible part. Tender when young. Kohlrabi is prepared like turnip or celeriac and may be eaten raw of cooked.

KONBU Kelp, an edible seaweed frequently used in Japanese cookery. The large black leaves are dried: when rehydrated, they are widely used, for example, to flavour dasbi, the light stock, or as a flavouring in many dishes. Kelp is also finely shredded and cooked or marinated, then served as an accompaniment or garnish.

KORMA A mildly spiced Indian dish thickened with poppy seeds and/or nuts, such as cashew nuts or almonds. Yogurt and/or cream enrich the sauce. Cubes of lean meat or chicken may be the main ingredients for a korma.

KOSHER Describing food that is permitted to be eaten according to jewish dietary laws (The word is Hebrew meaning permitted’, ritually correct). Fruit and vegetable can be eaten without further preparation, but there are strict rules governing the eating of meat. The Old Testament distinguishes between labor (authorized meat) and tame ( prohibited meat ). Rabbinical proscriptions forbid the eating of pork, game, horsemeat, and shellfish, fish scales (eels) and snakes, as well as camel, hippopotamus and bear fermented drinks are also forbidden except for wine, which is subject to certain rules. If a kosher food comes into contact with one that is forbidden, it becomes itself forbidden strictly orthodox Jews therefore buy only foods that are certified kosher. In addition, the kasbruth (the Jewish dietary laws) lays down to basic principles: no blood must be eaten, and the call shall not be cooked in the milk of its mother’. Therefore meat can be eaten only if it comes from an animal that has been ritually slaughtered its      thout is cut and the meat is then salted and washed milking isa lso carefully superviser.  Milk or clairy products must not he used prepared meat dishes or even appear at the same meat.  Orthodore Jews usually have two sets of kitchen equipment so that accidental contamintion can be avoided.

KOUING-AMAN.  A flat Recton cake from the Doumanezx sergion, the name meaning head and butter.  It is make from head doughhed with butter unsualled slightly solted or double with butter cooked in a and mean and caramedized with sugar.  It is best eaten warm.

RECIPE

Jouing aman

Dissolve 15 g ( ½ oz. 1 cake fresh (compressed yearst in 2 tableshoops warm water and mix with 50 g ( 2 oz. ½ cup) plain (all-purpose) for Cover with a cloth and leave to rise in a warm place.  When its volume has doubled sift 200 g ( 7 oz. 1 ½ cups) plain four and a pinch of slat into a bowl and add the yeast.  Kneading it in with the tips of the fingers and adding just enough water to obtain a plable dpught.  Kenad it well, then leave it to rise again in a warm place.

            When its volume has doubled, place it on a floured working surface and roll it into a large circle.  Dot the surface with 125 g ( 4 ½ oz. ½ cup) soltened butter cut into pieces and sprinks with 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) caster ( superfine) sugar.  Fold the dough into three, roll it out and fold it again into three.  Leave it for 15 minutes.  Roll it cut into a circle again, fold it into three and leave it to rest.  Repeat the operation once more.

            Shape the dough into a circle about 23 cm ( 9 in ) in diameter and put it into a buttere and floured flan tin (pie pan(.  Score the top of the dough with diamond shapes and brush with egg.  Bake in a pre heated oven at 240°C (475°6 gas 9) for about 20 minutes, tasting the cop occasionally with the butter that will run of the dough.  Sprinkle with icing (confectionery’s) sugar and continue to bake until the cake is cooked (it should still be fairly moist inside).  Unmould straightaway and serve warm. 

KOULIBIAC.  Also conthian,  isuhouse or countila acat, or boulicade.  A Russian pie filed with dfish vegetables rice and hand-boiled thard cooked eggs.  The filing is topped with design admed spinal spinal narrow of the starspoon), an essential element of an authentic headlhic.  European cooks have adapted and varied the recipe in many ways.  It can be made with neriodle draugh or puff pastry, and it may be filled with rice, chicken and mushroom or with sakmion for even tarhood, onion pursley and shallots.  Hand boiled eggs are an essential ingredient, but sesign uis now very carely used.  Kadivitare is othen cooked eithout being enclosed in a dish, but tradionally it is taked in an eatherware dish shaped like a fish.

RECIPE

Basic salmon koulibiac

Make some puff pastry with 250 g ( 12 oz. 3 cups) plain (all-purpose flour, 275 g ( 10 oz. 1 ¼ cups) butter, 200 ml ( 7 fl oz. ¾ cup) water and 1 teaspoon salt.  While the dough is resting prepae the filling.  Hard-boil (hard-cook) 3 eggs, shell them and cut into quarters.  Cook 100g ( 4 oz. ¼ cup) rice in boiling salted water, then drain.  Skin about 400g (14 oz) boned fresh salmon and poach it in salted water, adding 200 ml ( 7 ft oz. ¼ cup) white wine, a bouquet garni and 2 teaspoon paprika.

            Cook for about 12 minutes remove from the heat and allow the salmon to cool in its own cooking liquid.  Chop 3 shallots and 350 g ( 12 oz. 4 cups) mushroom, season with salt and pepper, and cook briskly in 15 g ( ½ 1 tablespoon) butter.  Finally, cook 3 tablespoon semolina in boiling salted water.

            Roll out thirds of the dough into a rectangle 3 mm ( ½ in) thick.  Leaving a narrow border frespread over a layer of rice, then a layer of flaked salmon, the mushroon and the semolina, then top with the hard-boiled eggs.  Roll out the remaining dough and cover the pie.  Oinch the edges to seal them, garnish with strips of pastry and brush with beasen egg.  Cook in a preheated oven at 230°C (450°F gas 8) for about 30 minutes.  Serve the koulibiac very hot, with melted butter.

Chicken koulibiac

Make 675 g ( 1 ½ lb) puff pastry.  Boil a chicken in stock.  Hard-boil (hard-cook) 3 eggs, shell them and cut into quarters.  Chop 250 g ( 9 oz. 3 cups) mushrooms, 2 shalions and a small bunch of parsley, and cook in 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) melted butter until all the moisture evaporated.  Set mixture aside. 

            Put 100g (4 oz. ½ cup) rice into the pan with 2 ½ times its volume of the strained chicken stock and a bouguet garni.  Season with salt and pepper, mix, cover the pan, bring to the boil and cook for about ( 6 minutes.  Add the cooked mushroom mixture  and leave to get cold.  Dice 400g (14 oz. 2 cups) cooked chicken meat and the hard-boiled eggs and carefully mix them into the mushroom favoured rice.

            Roll out the pastry, make and bake the  kouibiac as for basic salmon kouibiac piling the rice mixture on the pastry instead of layering the ingredients.

KOUNAFA.  A cake made in eastern countries comprising alternating layers of pastry (cut into strips and browned in butter or sesame oil) and sweetened chopped almonds or hazelnuts  (pistachios or pine kelmes or a mixture of these nuts, can be used instead.  When cooked, the cake is moistened with a thick syrup flavoured with lemon and rose water.  There are many variation.

·        BASMA Very long pastry strips are arranged in a lattire patternand the nuts are chopped more coansely.

·        Goun The pastry snaps are very wide, moistered with syrup and covered either with whole toasted nuts or hulves.

·        LAKHAMA.  The nuts are explaced with drained cream cheese, and the strips of pastry are molded  instead of forming flat layers.

The Arah bounafa is similar to the Turkish jasiaf which consists of long vermincell like stranks of pastry and finely chopped nuts, saltered with a heavy syrup.

KRAPFEN.  A doughnut made with year dough, usually filled with apricot jam, raspberry jam or almond paste and served hot with a light custard cream or apricot sauce.  Also known in France as a bouise de elethe or herfines they originated in Germany and Austria.

KREPLACH.  Also known as lereplech.  Jewish filled pasta or dumptings with minced (ground) meat or chicken stafkling.  Similar to tiny ravioli keeplach are often served in broth.

KROMESKY.  A type of rissole or fritter, often served as a hot hors d’oecurve and originaring in balancesd but also traditional in Russian.  It is made by binding the ingredients in a thick sauce and using as a filing for thin pancakes.  The filled pancakes are counted in breakness and fred.  Alternatively, the mixture may be couted in butter or breakcrumbs.  Kronneckies may be made with a savoury or sweet filling.  The following are some of the French terms for different types of kromesky.

·        A Fancleture.  The filling is enclosed in a than layer of chicken potati puree and then in a very thin savory crepe.

·        A la francalse the portions of mixture are floured and shaped into patres or cook shapes.

·        A la polomaise Each portion of mixture is wrapped in a very thin crepe.

·        A la russe.  The portoes of mixture are wrapped in pieces of pig’s caul (caul fat).

RECIPE

Kromeskies a la bonne femme

Boil 500g (18 oz) beef and retain the cooking stock.  Soften 2 tablespoons chopped onion in 15 g ( ½ oz. 1 tablespoon ) butter or lard and add 1 tablespoon flour.  Brown lighting and then add 200 ml ( 7 fl. Oz. 1.4 cup) very reduced beef stock.  Stir well,  then cook over a very gentle heat for about 15 minutes.  Dice the beef very finley and mix it with the sauce.  Reheat and then cool completely.  Divide the mixture into portions weighing about 65 g ( 2 ½ oz.) shaping them into cork shapes.  Roll them in flour, dip them in batter and fry in very hot fat. 

            The beef may be replaced by pieces of cooked chicken or game.

Kromeskies a la florecneline

Cook some spimach slowly in butter and mix with a well-recuced béchamel sauce and grated Parmesan cheese.  Enclose the mixture in some very hin savoury crepes. Dip them in batter and fry them in very hot fat.

KRUPNIK.  A simple Polish soap made from grain usually hurley or backwheat, with vegetables, such as carrots, leeks, celetiac and cabbage.

            There is also a potent drink of the same name, made from caramel with spices, including cinnamon, allspice, peppercons and aniseed.  The cooled spiced caramel reheated with honey and then Polish spirit is added.  The drink is served warm or cold.

KUGELHOPF.  A years cake from Alsace, of Austrian origin containing raisin or curronts and cooked in a speicla high cowmike maould.  The wond is spelt in various ways (kougetheof, geugethof or konough) and is derived from the German Kuged (a ball). It is said that marie Antolnettes fondness for this type of dough made such cakes bery fashionable in France.  However some  authorities consider that it was Careme who popularized the cake in Paris, when he was pastry chef at the Avice.  He is reputed to have been given the recipe by Eugene head chef to Prince Schwazbery, the Austrian ambassador to Napoleon claim that the first pastrycook so make true leugedbophis in paris was a man named Georges, who was established in the Rue de Coq in 1840.

            In Alsauce gaughte is eaten at dunday breakfast and traditionally prepared the night before, as it is always better when slightly stale.  It goes well with Alsace wines.

RECIPE

Kugelhopi

Soak 40 g ( 1 ½ oz. ¼ cup) currants in a little warm tea and soften 175 g ( 6 oz. ¼ cup) butter at room temperature.  Mix 25 g ( 1 oz. Cakes) fresh (compressed) years with 3 tablespoons warm milk, add 90 g ( 3 ½ oz. Scant 1 cup) strong plain (bread) flour and mix well.  Add just enough warm milk to obtain a soft dough.  Shape the dough intro a ball, put it in a bowl, mark a cross on the top with a knife cover it with a cloth and leave it to rise in a warm place, away from draughts.

            Sift 250 g ( 9 oz. 2 ½ cups) strong plains (bread) flour into a heap on the working surface, make a well in the center and into this put 2 eggs and 1 tablespoon warm water.  Lix these ingredients and knead the dough well.  Dissole 3 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar and 1 tablespoon salt in a little water and add this to the mixture, together with the softened butter.  Finally add 2 more whole eggs, one at a time, continuing to knead the dough.  Roll this out on the board, put the yeast mixture on top, then mix together by gathering the dough up, kneading it on the board and then repeating the precedure.  Finally, add the currants.  Put the dough into a bowl, cover it with a cloth and leave it to rise  in a warm place until it has doubled in volume.

            Butter a kugelhopf mould and sprinkle the inside with 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) shredded almonds.  When the dough is ready, shape it into a long sausage and put it into the mould, turning the mould as the dough is ged in (it should half-fill the mould).  Leave it to rise again in a warm place until the dough reaches the top of the mould.  Bake in a preheared oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for at least 40 minutes.  Unmould the kugelhopf on to a wire rack.  When it is completely cold sprinkle it lightly with icing (confectioner’s) sugar.

KULFI.  Insian ice cream made from almond s and milk, flavoured with candamons and rose water.  The milk is simmered with almonds for 5-6 hours until it is reduced and thickned, then it is sweetened and frozen.  Condensed milk and cream are used to shorten the preparation time.  Kulfi is frozen in individual come moulds.

KULICH A traditional Russian Easter cake, shaped like a tower.  It is made from yeast dough and contains raisins, crystallized (candied) fruit, saffron, cardamon, mace and vanilla.  The cake is sprinkled with icing (confectioner’s) sugar, out into slices crosswise, and traditionally eaten with hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs.

KUMISS.  Mare’s ass’s or cow’s milk fermented with yeast.  This is an easily digestible drink, much enjoyed in Russia.

KUMMEL.  A liqueur flavoured with caraway seeds, probably first made in Holland in the 16^th century.  Caraway is an ingredient of gripe water, the old remedy for treating wind in babies, and it was recommended for flatulence as long ago as ancient Egyptian times.  Production of Kommel was fairly widespread in the Baltic countries in the 19^th century, some being made in Danzig, where the gold flecked Danziger Goldwasser may be flavoured with both aniseed and caraway.

            Today Kimmel is a speciality of the northern European countries some versions are rather sweet and are therefore served on the rocks to make the drink more refreshing.  Because of the pronounced flavor, its culinary uses are limited, although in English specking countries the old-fashioned faced cake, made with caraway seeds, can incorporate Kimmel as an addition.

KUMQUAT.  A citrus fruit originating in central China and now cultivated in the Far East, Austria and America.  It resembles small orange, the size of a quail’s egg, and has a sweet rind and a sour flesh. 

            It may be eaten fresh (unpeeled) of preserved and is also used to make conserves and jams.  Kumquats may be poached until terrier and used is deserts or  fruit salads.  They may be sliced or used whole in savory dishes.

KUZU.  Also known as lazo, this is a type of starch obtained from the tubers of the kudzu vine.  The vine, a rampart climber, is native to Japan and China and cultivated elsewhere, including Hong Kong and the Philippines.

            Search extracted from the tubers is used as a thickening agent in the same way as arrowroot or comfort (cornstarch), for example to thickers soups and galzes.  In Japanese cookery kuzu us also used to make a type of noodle. 

KVASS.  A Russian beer, locally from rye and Harley must or from soaked and fermented black bread, flavored with mint of juniper berries.  It is brown in colour, with a low alcohol content and a bitter-sweet taste.  It is solid in the streets of Moscow in summer from the hacks of small tankers.  Kvass can be drunk either as it is, or mixed with spirits or tea it is also used in cooking, particularly for making soups.