IBEX Wild goat of the
Bovidae family, which lives in the mountains of Europe and Asia. Ibexes are
common in Italy and Switzerland, but they had almost disappeared from the
French Alps. Swiss animals have now been reintroduce there, but they have not
yet been re-established in the Pyrenees, although ibexes are numerous in the
other mountainous parts of Spain.
ICE BOX A sealed
insulated chest containing blocks of ice, maintaining a sufficiently low
temperature to cool drinks and preserve foodstuffs for a relatively short time.
This type of ice box was superseded by the refrigeration.
ICE-CREAM CAKE A
dessert made from alternate layers of different flavoured ice creams and/or a
bombe mixture (a very light-textured ice cream), frozen in a brick-shaped mould
(see Neapolitan slice) or suitable round cake tin (pan).
The same name is used to describe a round or oblong cake having
a sponge cake meringue base with ice cream, sorbet, parfait or a bombe mixture
on top. It may be decorated with whipped cream, crystallized (candied) fruit or
fruit in syrup, and chocolate vermicelli (chocolate sprinkles).
Comtesse-Marie cake is made in a special square mould lined
with strawberry ice cream; the inside is filled with vanilla-flavoured whipped
cream.
Recipe
Blackcurrant ice-cream
cake
Trim some sponge-cake
fingers to the height of a rectangular cake tin (pan). Prepare a sugar syrup
flavoured with blackcurrant liqueur and allow to cool. Soak some whole
sponge-cake fingers in the syrup and use to line the bottom of the tin. Repeat
the process for the cut sponge-cake fingers and use these to line the sides.
To make about 675 g (1 ½ lb) filing, beat 6 egg yolks and 200 g
(7 oz, ¾ cup) blackcurrant liqueur and, if available, some blackcurrant
macerated in sugar. Add 6 tablespoons cold milk to 400 ml. (14 fl oz, 1 ¾
cups.) very thick, cold double (heavy) cream and whip until the cream stands in
peaks. Mix the whipped cream with the blackcurrant mixture and pour into the
mould.
Place in the freezer until slightly set, then soak some more
sponge-cake fingers in the syrup and cover the mixture with them. Leave in the
freezer until completely set. Just before serving, turn out the mould and pipe
with whipped cream. This dish may be served with a hot or cold blackcurrant
sauce.
ICE-CREAM MAKER
sorbetiere An electric appliance consisting of a container with a mixer or
paddle blades driven by a motor and used to make ice creams and sorbets. Manual
machines, which used crushed ice and salt as a freezing agent, are now rare.
Modern electric ice-cream makers are free-standing or placed directly in the
freezer. The motor drives the blades, which churn the mixture during freezing.
Workshop appliances with integral freezing units are also available, reducing
the freezing time and avoiding the need to adjust settings on the main freezer
to reduce the temperature for fast freezing. Some ice-cream makers have two
compartments so that two flavours can be made at the same time.
ICE AND ICE CREAMS Cold
deserts made by freezing a flavoured mixture. Freezing is carried out
commercially in an ice-cream maker or a churn freezer, mainly consisting of a
refrigerated tank in which a number of electrically driven blades stir the
mixture throughout the operation to incorporate air and take it smooth. The
tank can act as mould, but the ices are usually spooned into individual tubs or
put into moulds after they are taken out of the ice-cream freezer. There are
moulds of all shapes, made of metal or plastic, enabling flavours to be
combined in various ways. The mould is filled, then frozen. To remove the ice
cream from it, the mould is immersed briefly in warm water. The ice cream can
be decorated in many ways, for example with fresh or crystallized (candied)
fruit. Chantilly cream, coffee beans liqueur grated chocolate.
*History
The
history of ice cream is linked with that of gastronomy and refrigeration. The
Chinese knew the art of making iced drinks and desserts long before the
Christian era. They taught this art to the Arabs, who began making syrups
chilled with snow, called sherbets (hence the words “sherbet” and sorbet).
At the court of Alexander the Great, and later under Nero.,
fruit salads and puree were served mixed with honey and snow. It was not until
the 13th century, however, that Marco Polo is said have brought back
from the East the secret of cooling without ice, by running a mixture of water
and saltpeter over containers filled with the substance to be cooled. Thus the
great fashion for water ices began in Italy.
When Catherine de Medici arrived in France to marry the future
Henri II, she introduced iced desserts to the court, among other culinary
novelties, but the Parisian public discovered them only a century later, when
Francesco Procopio opened a café. People went there to read news-sheets,
discuss politics and literature, and above all to sample drinks and delicacies,
among which there were ices and sorbets (sherbets) that soon became all the
rage. Procope (as he was now called) was soon imitated by his colleagues: in
the 18th century, 250 limonadiers were selling ices in Paris,but
only in summer. In about 1750 Procope’s successor, Buisson, had the idea of
selling ices all the year round. The fashion at the time was to walk under the
arcade of the Palais-Royal where the fashionable cafés sold their iced
specialties, but these were still of poor qualities.
Around 1775, ices became more delicate in flavour, richer and
with more body, so that they could be moulded into different shapes, ices made
with milk, cream and eggs appeared. In fact, they had been discovered in 1650
by a French cook of Charles I of England, who paid him to keep his method
secret. The end of the 18th century saw the great fashion for
fromages glaces. The manufacturer of ices continued to develop. The ice bombe
appeared and it became customary to serve it during a meal of any significance.
Two Italians, Pratti and Tortoni, were especially famous for their line ices;
in particular, Tortoni launced the iced sponge cake in 1978. Under the Second
Empire the omelette surprise was invented, then the first coupes, mousses and
parfaits. Ices were served at the end of meals and also became common during
balls and receptions. Very refined blends of lavours were invented including
apricot and wild cherries, Mignonne peaches, Malmsey wine from Alicante,
angelica liqueur, the yolks of finch eggs, sugary melon, hazelnuts and mint
liqueur, green tea and citron juice, pistachios and peach, according to the
recipes in the Preceptoral des menus royaux of 1822. By the beginning of the 20th
century, itinerant ice-cream vendors were selling in the streets. The United
States has been particularly creative, inventing myriad new flavours and ways
of eating ice cream, including sundaes (ice cream topped with flavoured sauces,
whipped cream, chopped nuts and sometimes fruit), sodas (scoops of ice cream
topped with flavoured syrup to which soda water is added), milk shakes (ice
cream and flavoured syrup liquidized with milk), malts (milk shakes with malt
added) and pie a la mode (pie with a scoop of ice cream).
Ancient recipes were gradually modified and adapted to the
needs of industrial manufacture. Nowadays stabilizers are included, such as
edible gelatine, egg white, agar-agar and carob.
Recipes
Ice Creams
Caramel ice cream
Whisk together 9 egg
yolks and 300 g (11 oz, 1 1/3 cups) caster (superfine) sugar until the mixture
becomes white and foamy. Make caramel without water: warm 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup)
sugar in a heavy based saucepan over a gentle heat, string with a wooden spoon.
As soon as the sugar melted and turned into a smooth mass, add a further 100 g
(4 oz, ½ cup) sugar, melt, then blend in another 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup) sugar.
Continue to stir until the caramel has turned brown. Add 1 teaspoon lemon juice
or vinegar straight away, and remove from heat.
Boil 1 litre (1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3 cups) milk. Mix with the hot
caramel over a gentle heat, stirring with a wooden spoon. Pour this boiling
mixture over the sugar and egg yolk mixture, whisking vigorously, then stir the
mixture into the saucepan, over a low heat. When the mixture begins to coat the
spoon, remove the saucepan from the heat and immerse the base in cold water.
Continue to stir until the mixture is cold. Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Coffee and brandy bombe
Chill a 1 litre (1 ¾
pint, 1 quart) bombe mould in the freezer. Make a custard* with 500 ml (17 fl
oz, 2 cups) milk, 6 egg yolks and 125 g (4 ½ oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine)
sugar, then add 1 tablespoon instant coffee. Stir until the mixture is cold.
Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Bring to the boil a syrup made with 200 ml (7 fl oz, ¾ cup)
water and 250 g (9 oz, 1 heaped cup) caster sugar. While still boiling, pour
the syrup over 8 egg yolks and beat with an electric mixer until cool. Whip 6
tablespoons milk with 250 ml (8 fl oz, 1 cup) very cold double (heavy) cream.
Blend the cream with the egg yolk mixture, flavour it with 3 tablespoons
liqueur brandy and chill.
Honey ice cream
Infuse 10 g (1/3 oz)
mixed ground spices ( such as black pepper, juniper, cloves, cinnamon) in 1
litre (1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3 cups) milk. Beat 10 egg yolks with 400 g (14 oz, 1 ¼
cups) dark Yonne honey until pale and creamy. Add the boiling milk and cook
gently at 85ºC (185ºF) until slightly thickened. Allow to cool and strain
through a chinois. Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Strawberry ice cream
Make custard with 500
ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups) milk, 6 egg yolk, 125 g (4 ½ oz, ½ cup) caster
(superfine) sugar and little natural vanilla extract (essence). Cool, stirring,
all the time. Pure 450 g (1 lb) strawberries with 4 tablespoons icing
(confectioner’s) sugar and stir into the custard. Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Water Ices
A light sugar syrup is
required for the following recipes. The density is given and this can be
measured using a saccharometer or syrup hydrometer (see sugar). As a guide, a
translucent coating syrup boils at 100ºC (212ºF) or very slightly above 100.5ºC
(213ºF) – and has a density of 1.2407. To make a light syrup of this type, use
10% sugar to water: 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup) sugar to 1 litre (1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3
cups) water.
Grand Marnier ice
Make 1 litre (1 ¾
pints, 4 1/3 cups) clear, coating syrup (density 1.2407). whisk in the juice of
half a lemon and 6 tablespoons Grand Marnier. Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Liqueur ice
Mix cold, clear sugar
syrup (density 1.1407) with the chosen liqueur, generally 6 tablespoons liqueur
to 1 litre(1¾ pints, 41/3 cups) syrup. Add a little lemon juice. (The density
of the mixture be between 1.11425 and 1.1799.) Freeze in an ice-cream maker.
Mango ice
Choose mangoes that are
very ripe and in perfect condition. Cut them into two, remove the stone, and
put the pulp into a blender, adding the juice of half a lemon or lime. For
about 500 ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups.) pulp reduced to a puree, prepare 400 ml (14 fl
oz, 1¾ cups) clear, coating syrup (density 1.2407). Whisk the syrup and mango
pulp together. Freeze the mixture in an ice-cream maker.
ICING A preparation of
icing (confectioner’s) sugar used to coat sweet goods. Glace and royal icing
are the traditional types, but the term covers a variety of cake coverings,
including American frosting – a whisked mixture of egg whites and sugar syrup,
prepared over hot water to give a foamy, soft and sweet meringue-like mixture.
Frosting sets slightly on the surface when cooled. Other types of icing can be
made from boiled sugar mixtures, including fondant and fudge icing. Melted
chocolate can be used as a main ingredient in icings. Butter cream is sometimes
referred to as an icing, in the sense of being a cake covering.
Glace icing Uncooked
water icing, known as glace icing, is a simple solution of icing sugar mixed
with water: 200 g (7 0z, 1½ cups) sugar mixed with 120 ml (4 ft. oz. ½ cup)
water until a thick consistency is obtained. It
can be flavoured with a fruit juice, a liqueur or coffee essence
(extract). It is used mainly to cover soft sponge cakes and pastries, forming a
glittering smooth coating that sets lightly.
* Royal icing Royal icing, made with egg whites and icing
sugar, is a completely different preparation to glace icing, used for coating
marzipan covered fruit cake and for adding piped decoration. Royal icing dries
to a fairly hard consistency and it keeps for several months.
RECIPE
Royal icing
Gradually add icing
(confectioner’s) sugar to lightly whisked egg whites, stirring continuously and
gently until it forms a mixture that is thick enough to spread without
running.Stop stirring when the mixture is smooth.Strained lemon juice may be
added (10 drops for 2 egg whites) Keep the icing cool, covered with damp
greaseproof (wax0 paper. To cover a Genoese make 20 cm ( 8 in) in diameter, use
1 egg white, 175 g ( 6 oz. 1 ¼ cups) icing sugar and 1 teaspoon lemon juice.
If a piped decoration is to be used, the
icing must be firms, so use 300 g ( 11 oz, 2 ¼ cups) icing sugar per egg white.
IDIAZABAL Unpasteurized
DOP sheeps milk cheese from the Basque region of Spain.This cooked pressed
cheese (45-50% fat content) is shaped into 13 –18 cm ( 5-7 in) diameter wheels
weighing around 2.5-4.5 kg ( 5 ½ -10 lb) The firm paste is yellow beige in
colour, with tiny holes and a rich buttery flavour. Many of the cheese are
smoked in natural wood smoke.
ILE
FLOTTANTE A very light dessert made from
egg white and sugar cooked in a bain
marie, then unmoulded on to a custard cream and usually coated with caramel.
Known in English as floating island, it can be decorated with toasted slivered
almonds, chopped praline or very fine strips of lemon zest (the latter dessert
is also called dameblanche)
IMAM
BAYILDI A Turkish dish of stuffed
aubergines (eggplants) whose name means the imam fainted. According to legend,
when aubergines prepared in this way were offered to a certain imam (priest) he
was so moved by the fragrant odour of the dish that he fainted from sheer
gastronomical joy! The stuffing is made with a mixture of the aubergine pulp,
onions and tomato.Cooked rice is sometimes added, as are various other
ingredients (especially currants or raisins). Spices and aromatic herbs, but
not meat. The dish may be served hot or cold.Aubergines, stuffed or plain, are
used a great deal in Turkish cooking as a garnish for roast lamb or mutton. In
classic cuisine, the garnish a l imam hayidi consists of slices of fried
aubergine, sauteed halved tomatoes and pilaf rice, it is served with tournedos
steaks or noisettes of lamb.
RECIPE
Imam
bayildi
Soak
200 g (7 oz 1 cup) currants in a little tepid water.Wipe 4 long aubergines
(eggplants) and, without peeling them, slice them in half lengthways.Carefully
remove the pulp without piercing the skin, cut I t into small dice and sprinkle
with lemonn juice. Peel and chop 4 large onions, peel seed and squeeze 8 large
tomatoes, and chop a small bunch of parsley. Heat 4-5 tablespoons olive oil and
brown the diced aubergine, tomato pulp, chopped onion and parsley. Add salt,
pepper, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. Cover the pan and cook gently over a
low heat for about 20 minutes. Then add 2 crushed garlic cloves and the drained
currants. Mix everything together
thoroughly and cook for a further 5 minutes.
Grease an ovenproof dish remove the thyme and the bay leaf, arrange the aubergine
halves in the dish, and fill them with the mixture. Pour some olive oil around
the subergines and add a little fresh thyme and some crumbled bay leaf. Cook in
a preheated oven at 160 oC (325 oF, gas 3 ) for 2 hours.
IMBRUCCIATA Any of various Corsican pastries containing
Broccio, a white cheese made from ewe’s and goat’s milk. The name is applied
particularly to a savoury tart and sweet fritters.
RECIPE
Fritters
a I imbrucciata
Sift
500 g ( 18 oz. 4 ½ cups) plain (all purpose) flour into a bowl, add 3 eggs, a
pinch of salt, 2 teaspoons baking powder and 3 tablespoons olive oil, and mix
together. Add 250 ml ( 8 ft oz. 1 cup) water and mix to obtain a smooth batter.
Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave the batter to stand for 3 hours at room
temperature. Cut some fresh Broccio cheese into slices, dip them in a little of
the batter, and deep fry them in very hot oil until golden brown. Drain and
sprinkle with sugar.
IMPERATRICE, AL The name given to various sweet or savoury
classic dishes characterized by the richness of their ingredients.Consomme a I
imperatrice, made from chicken stock, is garnish with cockcombs and kidneys,
chervil and asparagus tips.Chicken and sole a I imperatrice are finished with
supreme sauce. However, the name is most commonly applied to a dessert made
with rice crystalliZed (candied) fruits and a Bavarian cream mixture. All fruit
desserts a I imperatrice are based on this preparation.
RECIPE
Rice
a imperatrice
Soak
15 g ( ½ oz. 2 envelopes)
gelatine in 3 tablespoons warm water.Soak 125 g ( 4 ½ oz. ¾ cup0 crystallized
(candied) fruit in 3 tablespoons rum. Add 250 g ( 9 oz. 1 ½ cups) short-grain
rice to 1 litre ( 1 ¾ pints, 4 ½ cups) boiling milk containing 1 vanilla pod
9bean) a pinch of salt and 15 g ( ½ oz 1 tablespoon) butter.Cook gently for
about 20 minutes until the rice is just beginning to soften. Now add 200 g ( 7
oz. Scant 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and cook for a further 5
minutes.Remove from the heat and add the crystallized fruit with the rum.
While the rice is cooking, prepare a custard with 250 ml ( 8 ft oz. 1
cup) milk, half a vanilla pod, 4 eggs 5 tablespoons caster sugar and a tiny
pinch of salt. While the custard is
still hot, add the soaked gelatine and stir until dissolved.Then rub the
custard through a fine sieve and flavour with 1 tablespoon rum if desired.
Leave the rice and the custard to cool.
Whip 250 ml ( 8 ft oz. 1 cup) double (heavy0 cream with 3-4 tablespoons
very cold milk until 3 tablespoons caster sugar. Mix the custard into the chilled
rice, then very carefully fold in the cream.
Pour into a savarin mould or a deep sandwich tin (layer cake pan) and
keep in the refrigerator until required. Unmould on to a serving dish and
decorate with crystallized fruit or fruit in syrup.
IMPERIALE, A L The name given to various dishes of grande
cuisine, including a consomme garnished with small quenelles, cockscombs and
kidneys, fish dishes (such as sole or tourt) garnished with crayfish tails,
poached soft roes and finely sliced
truffle, and chicken dishes garnished with foie gras and gruffles.
INDIAN CORN Quebec name for maize, unknown to Europeans
until they set foot in America.Thinking they were in India, they called in
Indian corn.Epluchuette de ble d’made (peeling the Indian corn) is a meeting of
friends at harvest time where corn on the cob cooked in boiling water on a
compfire is eaten with butter and salt. Among the Acadians, washed (lessive)
Indian corn is prepared with dried
grains, these are soaked in cold water, then boiled with bicarbonate of soda
(baking soda) to burst their husks and softened in several changes of water.
INDIENNE, AL The name given to many dishes of curried
fish, eggs, mutton or poultry. They are usually served with boiled rice. A
curry or Indian sauce can be used to coat or as a base in which to cook main
ingredients. With fish and shellfish, a
fish fumet is used instead of the chicken stock.
A cold Indian or curry sauce is made with mayonnaise flavoured with
curry powder and chives.
RECIPE
Curry or Indian sauce
Cook 4 large sliced onions slowly in 5
tablespoons ghee, butter or oil. Add 1 tablespoon each of choipped parsley and
chopped celery, a small sprig of thyme, half a bay leaf, a pinch of mace, salt
and pepper.Sprinkle with 25 g ( 1 oz. ¼ cup) flour and 1 generous tablespoon
good quality curry powder and stir. Then add 500 ml ( 17 ft oz. Cups) chicken
stock, stir and bring to the boil, stirring. Reduce the heat, cover the pain
and cook slowly for about 30 minutes. A quarter of the chicken stock can be
replaced by coconut, milk for a coconut flavoured curry.Rub the sauce through a
sieve, add 1 teaspoon lemon juice and 5 tablespoons cream, and reduce a
little.Adjust the seasoning.
INDIGO CARMINE Also known as Indigotine. A blue food
colouring (E132) originally extracted from plants, but now synthesized from
aniline. It is used in food manufacture, mainly in cooked meats, pastries,
ices, cheese, jams and confectionery. The colouring is either incorporated into the foodstuff or applied externally.
INFUSION The process of steeping an aromatic
substance in a boiling liquid until the liquid has absorbed the flavour. The
resulting flavoured liquid is also
called an infusion, examples are tea and
tisanes (herbal teas) White wine is infused with truffle peelings for
flavouring sauces, red wine can be infused with cinnamon and cloves, and
vanilla flavoured milk is obtained by infusing a vanilla pod (bean0 in boiling
milk.
INN
An establishment where traditionally, travellers obtain food and lodging
on a commercial basis started at the beginning of the 16th century,
before this, it was undertaken free of charge by monasteries. Modern inns are
small country hotels run on a family basis. Restaurants of rustic appearance,
tastefully decorated and offering food
and overnight accommodation, are also called inns. The term is used for some
British pubs that no longer offer accommodation.
INSECT LARVAE Certain species of insect larvae are eaten as
food in several tropical countries. In Cameroon about 20 species of larvae are
sold in the markets. They are usually grilled (broiled) or they may be prepared
in a sauce with peanuts or gound seeds, cooked over charcoal, wrapped in banana
leaves, or cooked on skewers. The Pygmies, who are very partial to them crush
them in palm oil and use them as a condiment.The Japanese eat grilled (broiled)
mantis, wasp and dragonfly larvae, whereas in Latin America, a gave grubs and
bamboo caterpillars are popular.
The French anthropologist Claude Levi-Strauss, writing in his book Trisies
Tropiques, takes great delight in describing a larva known as koro. A stroke of
the axe opens up thousands of channels deep down in the wood. In each one,
there is a large cream coloured animal,
rather similar to the silkworn.. From
its body comes a whitish fatty substance, it has the consistency and fineness
of butter and the flavour of coconut milk. In the West Indies, palm grubs are a
choice delicacy.They are grilled (broiled) on skewers and served sprinkled with
breadcrumbs and lemon juice.
The French missionary Pere Favaud recounts the
following experience in China at the beginning of the 20th century.
For centuries, our farmers in the Midi have devoted themselves to the rearing
of silk worm, but never to my knowledge, have they dreamed of using them as
food. It is different in China. During my long stay, I have often seen people eat silkworm chrysalids and, indeed, I
have eaten them myself, I can affirm that they make an excellent stomach,
medicine, both fortifying and refreshing, and often a successful remedy for
those in poor health.
This is the way the dish was prepared for the mandarins and the wealthy.
On the other hand, the poor people, after grilling the chrysalids and removing
their outer coverings, fry them in butter or fat and season them with a little
salt, pepper or vinegar, or even eat them just as they are.
INTERLARDING The process of inserting thin strips
(lardons) of pork fat into lean cuts of meat using a larding needle,
interlarding is similar to larding but the lardons are left protruding from the
surface of the meat rather than pushed
right into the flesh. Interlarding is usually done only on the top side of the
meat. Its purpose is to keep the meat basted, and therefore moist throughout
the cooking time, as the lardons will melt in the heat of the oven.
Roasts that are interlarded include fillet of beef, leg of veal, saddle
of mutton haunch of venison, and baron of hare. Small cuts, poultry and game
birds can also be interlarded, using very small lardons.
INTESTINE The intestines of slaughtered animals are
used mainly as casings for various types of sausages. Pig’s intestine is most
commonly used. For large sausages, the large intestine and caecum are used, the
small intestine is used for chitterlings and small sausages. The small
intestine of sheep is used for some sausages, and ox intestines are used to
make black pudding (blood sausage) Artificial intestines made from viscose are
also used.
IRISH COFFEE An alcoholic drink made from black coffee,
sugar and Irish whiskey, topped with cream. To prepare Irish coffee, warm a
tall glass and pour in I good measure of Irish whiskey. Add about 2 teaspoons
sugar, then fill the glass to within 2.5 cm ( 1 in) of the top with very strong
hot coffee. Stir to dissolve the sugar, then carefully pour double (heavy0
cream over the back of a teaspoon, which is just touching the surface of the
coffee, so that the cream floats on the surface. Once the cream is added, do
not stir.
IRISH STEW A stew of mutton and potatoes, which according
to Courtine, is witness if, not of the art of living, at least of the art of
staying alive in difficult times, and has thus become a legendary dish.The
potato was introduced into Ireland in the 16th century, and together
with mutton, became the staple food. Pieces of neck end of mutton are arranged
in alternate layers with sliced potatoes and onions.Water is added, and the pot
is left to simmer over a very low heat. The traditional accompaniment is
pickled red cabbage.
IROULEGUY An AOC, red, rose or white
wine from the Basque coutnry. The red wine is made from the Cabernet Sauvignon
or Cabernet Franc and the Tannat grapes.
IRRORATEUR A type of spray gun, invented by Brillat
Savarin, which was used to perfume, room, especially the dining room.
Brillat Savarin writes in the preface to la Phystologie du gaut. I
submitted to the council of the society for the Encouragement of National
Industries my trovier a piece of apparatus invented by me, which is none other
than compressor spray that can fill a room with perfume I had brought the spray
with me in my pocket. It was well filled I turned on the tap and, with a
hissing sound out came a sweet smelling vapour which rose right up to the
ceiling and then fell in tiny drops on the people present and on their papers.
It was then that I witnesses, with
indescribable pleasure, the heads of the wisest men in the capital
bending under my trouration I was enraptured to note that the western among
them were also the happiest.
The pedantic name of this device comes from the Latin verb irroure,
meaning to sprinkle or to bedew.
ISSUES
A term used in the French butchery trade to describe the inedible parts
of animal carcasses, such as the skin, hair and horns. In some region, the word
issues can also mean both edible offal (variety meats) and also those parts of
the animal that are forbidden by law to be sold for human consumption.
When the term is used I n the flour industry, it refers to the by
products of milling such as bran.
ITALIENNE A L In French classic cuisine, this name is given
to dishes of meat, fish, vegetables or eggs that are either dressed with Italian sauce (based
on a duxelles of mushrooms, ham and chopped herbs) or garnished with artichoke
hearts or macaroni. It is also applied to pasta cooked at dente and to many
other dishes typical of Italian cookery.
RECIPES
Fried eggs a I italienne
Prepare some Italian sauce, allowing 1
tablespoon for each egg, and keep it hot. Cook very small slices of ham in
butter over a very low heat, taking care that they do not become tough. Fry the
eggs in oil and arrange them in a circle, alternating them with the slices of
ham. Pour the Italian sauce over the top.
Italian sauce
Clean and chop 250 g ( 9 oz. 2 generous
cups) button mushrooms, 1 onion and 1 shallot. Heat 5 tablespoons olive oil in
a saucepan, add the chopped vegetables and cook over a high heat until the
juices from the mushrooms are completely evaporated.Add 150 ml ( ¼ pint, 2/3 cup) stock, 6 tablespoons tomato
puree (paste) salt, pepper and a bouquet garni and cook gently for 30
minutes. Just before serving, add 1
tablespoon diced lean ham and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley.
Lettuce a I italienne
Braise some lettuce hearts, then drain
them well and arrange them in a buttered gratin dish. Moisten with Italian
sauce, using 1 tablespoon per lettuce. Cover the pan and simmer over a gentle
heat for about 20 minutes. Place the lettuce hearts in a ring and arrange some
sauteed veal around the outside. If desired, the lettuces can be sprinkled with
a little lemon juice.
Sliced meat a I italienne
Prepare some Italian sauce and keep it
very hot. Cut thin slices of beef, mutton or veal that has been boiled or
braised. Pour some of the sauce into a greased flameproof dish and arrange the
slices of meat on top. Cover with the remaining sauce and sprinkle with grated.
Parmesan cheese. Reheat on top of the stove without allowing the sauce to boil.
Swiss chard a I itallienne
Remove the green parts of the leaves,
then break off the veins and stalks (it is important not to cut them with a
knife) and remove the strigy parts. Divide into 7.5 cm ( 3 in0 length, put into
boiling white stock, and cook for about 20 minutes. Drain the chard. Prepare
enough Italian sauce to cover the chard. Put the chard and the sauce into a
pan, simmer, mix well sand adjust the seasoning. Before serving, sprinkle with
chopped basil.
IVOIRE
A variety of supreme sauce enriched with white meat glaze or reduced
veal stock, used especially for poached chicken. It is used thick for a chaud
froid sauce.
RECIPE
Chicken a I ivoire
Poach a chicken n white stock, prepare
500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups) ivoire sauce. Make 24 small chicken quenelles. Clean
and trim 24 button mushrooms, sprinkle with lemon juice, and place in a rooms,
sprinkle with lemon juice, and place in a saute pan with a little butter. Just
cover with chicken consomme and cook for about 10 minutes.
Drain the chicken and arrange on a serving dish, surrounded by the
mushrooms and quenelles.Coat with ivoire sauce serve the remaining sauce in a
sauceboat.
Ivoire sauce Add 2 tablespoons reduced
veal stock or meat glaze to 200 ml ( 7 ft oz. 2/3 cup) supreme sauce.
IZARD
A variety of the chamois found in the Pyrenees. Tender and full of
flavour, the meat (particularly the haunch and the fillets) is much sought
after being either roasted or stewed. As the animal to in danger of becoming
extinct, it is now a protected species. Therefore mutton, from sheep
slaughtered the day after they return from pasture, is marinated to produce a
similar taste.
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