GAILLAC Wine from southwestern France
produced on both banks of the Tarn from some
of the oldest vineyards in France.
The
appellation Gaillac applies to white, red and rose wines, White Gaillac can be dry, sweet,
sparkling or perle (slightly petillant) and is predominantly made from the Muzac grape. The spicy, full-bodied red wines are mainly
produced from the Duras grape.
GALANGAL A spice from India the Far
East, obtained from rhizomes of two plants in the ginger family, with orange or whitish pulp and a
reddish skin. Both resemble ginger in
appearance but have a more aromatic and
peppery flavour. The more commonly used
greater galangal has white flesh, and is
used freesh, dried and ground in
Indonesian, Malaysian and Tahi cooking. The ground form is also known as Laos
powder. Lesser galangal is smaller, has reddish skin and orange flesh and a
stronger flavour.
GALANTINE A dish made from lean pieces of poultry, game, pork, veal
or rabbit, mixed with a forcemeat
containing eggs spices and various other
ingredients and pressed into a symmetrical shape. The term is commonly
used to described a homed stuffed bird, in which the trimmings and forcemeat
are cooked in an aspic stock and served cold as an entrée, glazed with aspic
(the name comes from the old French
galantine, meaning ‘jelly’).
Galantine are sometimes cooked wrapped in a cloth,
which gives them a cylindrical shape,
they should the, strictly speaking be
made with fish, a soupresse of fish,
which was cooled under a board with a
weigh on top was a form of galantine.
Galantine of chicken
Cut the wings tips off a 2 kg. (4 ½ lb)
chicken. Slit the bird along the back
and, with a small, sharp-pointed knife bone it completely without tearing the
flesh. This operation, which at first
sight seems awkward, is actually fairly simple: follow the joints of
the chicken and work inwards towards the
carcass, shaving off the flesh as close to the bone as possible. This separates the carcass from the body
of the chicken. Now remove the bones form the legs and
wings. Now remove the bones form the
legs and wings, still being careful not to
tear the skin. Spread out the bird on the table and cut away the breast and the flesh of the thighs and wings,
then cut these pieces into squares.
Now
prepare the forcemeat finely mince
(grind) 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) boned loin of pork and 250 g (9 oz.
1 cup) shoulder of veal. Dice 150 g 95 oz. ¾ cup), fat bacon, 150 g (5
oz. ¾ cup) ham, and 150 g (5 oz. ¾ cup)
pickled tongue into 1.5 cm (1/2 in) cubes, mix with the chicken squares. 150 g
(5 oz. 1 ¾ cups) blanched
pistachios, the minced meat, 2 beaten eggs, 6 tablespoons brandy, salt,
pepper and ¾ teaspoons all spice. Wet
your hands in order to work this mixture
and blend it together shape it into a
ball, then into a rectangular block.
To
prepare the gelatine, place the block of
forcemeat over the central third of chicken and enclose it by folding over the parts of the chicken skin
that project at the sides and ends, stretching it without tearing. Soak a coarse linen cloth in
water and wring it out, then spread it flat on the table. Place it so that a flap about 25 cm (10 in) wide hangs over the edge of the
table. Place galantine lengthways on this cloth, about 10 cm (4 in) from the edge
of the table and breast upwards. Wrap the gelatine in the cloth securely. Tie
the gelatine with string in 3 places to
keep it in shape.
Prepare
an aspic stock with 2 partly boned calf’s feet, 500 g (18 oz) fresh pork skin,
2 kg (4 ½ lb) knuckle of veal, 2 large sliced carrots, a large onion studded
with cloves, 2 shredded leeks, a bouquet garni enrich with celery, 5 litres (8
½ pints, 5 ½ quarts) white stock, 400 ml (14 fl oz. 1 ¾ cups) Madeira
(optional), salt and pepper. Cook the stock for 1 ½ hours, then add the
gelatine, bring rapidly to the boil and simmer for 2 ¾-3 hours. Remove
the gelantine. Let it stand for 15 minutes before unwrapping it. Remove the cloth, rinse in
lukewarm water and wiring thoroughly. Spread it on the table and carefully wrap the gelatine in it as
before, taking care to keep the slit part of the children underneath. Tie up gelatine. Press it on a slab, covering
it with a wooden board with a weight on top. Allow to cool for at least 12
ours; it can be kept for several days it
is stored in a cool place.
The
gelantine is served garnished with its own
clarified aspic jely.
GALETTE A flat, round cake of variable
size. The gelatte probability dates from
the Neolithic era, when thick cereal
pastes were cooked by spreading them out
on hot stones. In ancient time people made galettes
from oats, wheat, rye and even barley, sweetened with honey. Then came the hearth cakes of the
Middle Ages and all the regional varieties : the gelatte of Correze, made with
walnuts or chestnuts; the galette of Roussillon, made with crystallized (candied) fruits, the matzipan
gelatte of the Nivernais the cund cheese gelette of the Jura; the puff pastry
gelette of Normandy, filled with jam and
fresh cream; the famous galette of Pergia , a delicate yeasted pastry,
like brioche, flavoured with lemon rind
(zest) and topped with butter and sugar;
and, of course, the traditional puff
pastry Twelfth Night cake (galette des Rois or gateau des Rois).
Galettes
are not always sweet. In rural France
galettes are traditionally made with
potatoes (finely sliced or pureed) or with cereals (maize, millet, oats)
§ Buckwheat
crepes in Britany, Basse-Normandie and the Vendee, galettes are crepes
traditionally make with buckwheat flour.
They may be savoury, filled with ham, cheese, an egg, a sausage or
grilled 9broiled) sardines, or sweet
with fruit or a jam filling.
§ Butter
biscuits. The word galette also
applies to a small shorthread biscuit
(cookie) made with butter, which is a great Breton specially, an to dry, round,
crunchy cakes, sometimes with crimped edges, which are variously flavoured, filled or iced (especially with coffee or chocolate.
RECIPES
Galette de plomb
Make a well in 300 g (11 oz. 2 ¾ cups)
sifted plain (all-purpose) flour and add 1 teaspoon caster(superfine) sugar, 2
teaspoon salt dissolved in 1 tablespoon single (light cream, and 200 g (7 oz. ¾
cup) softened butter cut into small pieces (dot these pieces all over the
flour). Mix all the ingredients together
with the tips of the fingers. Beat
together I whole egg and 1 yolk.
Add them to the dough and knead towards the centre. If necessary, add
another tablespoon of cream. Work the
dough into a ball, cover with a cloth and leave to stand for 30 minutes.
Flour
the work surface, spread out the dough
with the flat of the hand into a rectangle, fold it 3 times upon itself,
roll it into a ball again and flatten it into a round shape, 2-3 cm (3/4- 1 ¾
in) thick. Place it on a buttered tart dish, trace rosettes on the top with the
point of a knife, brush it with beaten egg and bake in a preheated oven at
220°C (425°F, gas 7) for about 30 minutes. Serve lukewarm or cold.
Galette fondanete
Mix 300 g (11 oz. 2 ¾ cups) sifted plain
(all-purpose) flur with 50 g (2 oz, ¼ cup) softened butter. Add 1 beaten egg and 1 yolk, 6 tablespoons single
(light) cream, 20 g (3/4 oz. 1 ½ tablespoons ) sugar and a generous pinch of salt. Roll the dough into a ball and leave to
stand for 30 minutes. Roll it out and incorporate 200 g (7 oz. ¾ cup) butter, as for puff
pastry. Fold and roll the dough a
further 4 times, as for puff pastry, allowing it to rest for 10 minutes between
the first 2 turns but rolling the final 2 turns without resting. Roll the dough
out into a circle and score a lattice
pattern on the top with the point of a knife.
Brush with beaten egg and bake in
a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) until golden brown. Sprinkle the
gallete with icing (confectioner’s) sugar and put it back in the oven for a
moment to glaze it.
Potato galette
Bake 6 large floury (baking) potatoes in
the oven for 45-60 minutes until soft.
Cut them open and remove that flesh,
them mix 400 g (14 oz. 3 ¾ cups) of this with 4 egg yolks, added one by one,
and 1 teaspoon salt soften 150 g ) 5 oz 2/3 cup) butter with a spatula and mix it in.
Roll the potato dough into a ball and flatten it with the palm of the
hand. Shape it into a ball again and
repeat the operation twice more. Butter
a baking sheet and flatten the dough to
form a galette 4 cm 9 ½ in ) thick.
Trace a pattern on the top with point of a knife, brush it with beaten
egg, and bake in a preheated oven at
220°C (425°F, gas 7) until golden brown, if the
galette is to be served as a dessert, add to the dough 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) sugar, orange-flower
water and chopped blanched orange and lemon rind (zest).
Small orange galettes
Make a well in 250 g (9 oz. 2 ¼ cups)
sifted plain (all-purpose) flour. In the centre place 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup)
sugar, 150 g (5 oz. 2/3 cup) butter, a pinch of salt, the rind (zest) of 2
oranges rubbed on lumps of sugar and 6
egg yolks. Mix these ingredients together and gradually blend the flour into
the mixture. Knead the dough intro a ball and allow it to stand for a few hours in all cool
place. Roll out the dough to a thickness
of about 5 mm (1/4 in.). Cut it into
rounds with a flutted cutter 5-6 cm (2-2 ½
in) in diameter. Place the
galettes on a buttered baking sheet,
brush with egg beaten with a pirch of sugar and bake in a preheated oven at
240°C (475°F, gas 9) for about 6 minutes until lightly golden.
Twelfth
Night cake
Galette des rois Roll out 500 g (18 oz.
) puff pastry and cut out 2 circles.
Place one on a baking sheet and rush the edge with beaten egg. Mix 100
g (4 oz. ½ cup) sugar, 100 g (4 oz. 1
cup) ground almonds, a few drops of
vanilla essence (extract) and 1 tablespoon rum.
Mix in 200 g (7 oz) crème platissiere .
spread the almond on the pastry
on the baking sheet, leaving the glazed edge uncovered, and put in a dried
bean. Cover with the other circle of pastry and press the edges
together, them with a pastry cutter. Brush with
beaten egg. Allow to rest for 1
hour in the refrigerator and bake in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F., gas 5 ) for 25 minutes.
GALICIEN A type of sponge cake filled
with (pistachio-flavoured cream, iced
(frosted) green and decorated with
finely chopped pistachio nuts. It was apparently created at the old Patisserie
Frascati in Paris.
RECIPE
Galicien
Prepare a round Genoese sponge cake
using 40 g (1 ½ oz. 3 tablespoons) butter, 3 eggs, 90 g (3 ½ oz. ½ cup) caster
(superfine) sugar, 90 g (3 ½ oz. Scant 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, and a
pinch of salt. Slice the cake in half
horizontally, then sandwich it back together with a layer of confectioner’s
custared flavoured with finely chopped pistachio nuts. Spread the cake with apricot jam. Make on icing (frosting) with 3 egg
whites. The juice of 1 lemon, 300 g (11
oz., 2 ¾ cups) icing (confectioner’s)
sugar, and 3 drops of green colouring. Cover the cake with the icing, decorate
with chopped pistachios and keep cool until ready to serve.
GALINGALE A perennial Mediterranean plant that produces scaly brown tubes the size of hazelnuts, the sweet, white,
farinaceous pulp of which earned them
French name amandes de terre (earth almonds). They may be eaten dry, raw or
roasted like chestnuts.
In
North Africa the tubes are generally ground and used in forcemeats for poultry,
meathballs and spice mixtures.
In
Spain the galingale is called cufa; grown in
the valencia region, it is used for making a popular drink, borchata,
which is similar to orgeat. It also
yields an oil, which has a lower
freezing point than water and which does not turn rancid, and a flour used in
confectionary.
GALL BLADDER The organ that stores bile,
a greenish, very biter substance secreted by the liver. When poultry or game birds are drawn, care
must be taken not to pierce or break the gall bladder attached to the liver, because the bile
is so bitter that it would taint the
flesh.
GALLIMAUFRY galimafree In the Middle Ages a dish of
finely sliced cooked meat (usually chicken or mutton), fried in lard or goose
fat, mixed with finely chopped onions and then moistened with wine and erjuice sauce spiced with ginger. At that time galliaufry was the feast dish of
the people (its names frm gatler, to enjoy oneself, and mafrer, to
eat ravenously). It was only in the 17th century that the word took on the pejorative
meaning that it has today: a badly prepared and unappetizing dish.
GAMAY RED grape with white juice, hardy
and fertile, mostly grown in Beaujolais, but also in Burgundy, Auvergne, the Loire valley and
Savoie-dauphine. It is also well established in United States, Brazil and
Austria.
GAME Al wild animals and birds that are
hunted and those that are or were hunted and now are farmed. The French word comes from the old French gibecer
(to hunt), which derives from the Latin gibbosus (hunchback). Hunters brought
home the game they killed in a bag that they usually carried on their backs.
Thus, the hunter’s bag was called a gibeciere, from which
it was an obvious step to gibier (the contents of the bag).
Hunting
was once an important means of providing meat for the table. Today, in
industrialized countries, game is only a minor and occasional food, but hunting
countries to be enjoyed as a sport.’
Game
appears on the market only during the
open season, when hunting is permitted unless the animals or birds have
been specially bred, as in the case of quails and pheasants, for example.
In Britain several birds are protected
al years round, including blackbird, bustared, cygnet, heroes, lapwing. Lark,
rail, swan and swift. Other birds and animals, such as crow, beaver and
dormouse, are no longer hunted at all, tastes having changed.
§ Ground
and winged game Games can be divided into two broad categories: ground and
winged. Ground game is subdivided into
large game (deer, roebuck, wild hoar and, in North Anerica, bison) and small game (hare and wild rabbit0. The French term bete fauve applies specifically to the large herbivorous game (deer of both sexes)
as distinct from the hete noire (wild boar) and bete rousse (fox badger) Winged
game in France includes woodcock, pheasant, hazed grouse, grouse, partridge
partridge poult, rail, wood pigeon, capercaille and black grouse, small game birds include lark, garden warbler, thrush.
Blackbird, ortolan and plover, while water game includes godwit, wild duck,
curlew, wild goose, moorhen, real and
lapwing.
§ Digestibility
of game The way of life and the feeding
habits of game are reflected in the texture and flavour of its flesh, which has
a strong, fragrant aroma, which becomes stronger with age. The flesh is more compact and almost leathery in all animals with a strong colour
and less fat than other meat.
Before
cooking, game meat is generally hung for a
certain length of time to allow it to mature, which makes it tender and
gives it a stronger flavuor.
The
length of time for which the game is left to mature varies according to its age
and type for example , 4 days for a
woodcock or a pheasant, 3 for a thrush
or a duck, 2 for a hare, and 6-8 days for
large game. Daring the maturing process the flavour and tenderness of
the game improves.
Game
sold commercially already matured. When purchasing, it is advisable to choose a
young animal or bird that is not ‘high’.
§ Cooking
game The cuts of meat and the culinary methods are the same for large game as
for other meat. except that game is
often marinated: haunches, saddles and loins are roasted. Breasts, shoulders and necks are eaten in
ragouts and civets; noisettes and cutlets are sautéed or grilled (broiled). Winged game is prepared
like poultry. Terrines and pates can be also made from game. A sweet
accompaniment (apples chestnuts, grapes red fruits whorthleberries) is sometimes cosen in order to bring out the strong taste of the dark meat,
which is often served with highly
seasoned sauces (grand veneur, poivrade, Perigueux, Cumberland). Full-bodied wines with a distinct bouquet are
usually served with game.
GAMMELOST A Norwegian semi-soft,
yellowish-brown cheer made from cow’s or goat’s milk. Its rind is brown and becomes darker as it
ages maturing can take up to 6 months,
but Gammelost, which has a strong,
anomatic flavour, can also be eaten after I month. It is made in 15 cm (6 in) block either
rectangular or cylinder in shape, depending
on whether it is made of goat’s or cow’s milk.
GANACHE A flavoured cream made with
chocolate and fresh cream, sometimes,
with butter added, used to decorate desserts, to fill cakes or sweets and to make muffles or petits fours. It was
created in Paris in about 1850 at the Patisserie Siraudin.
RECIPES
Ganache
Melt 250 g 99 oz. 9 squares) plain
(unsweetened0 chocolate over a low heat and add 65-75 g (2 ½-3 oz. 5-6
tablespoons0 unsalted butter. Cool, the fold in whipped cream, either 250 ml (8
fl. oz. 1 cup) whipping cream or 200 ml (7 ml oz. ¾ cup) double (Heavy) cream
whipped with 3 tablespoons milk.
Whipped ganache
Bring 100 ml (4 fl oz ½ cup) double cream to the boil. Remove from the heat and add 225 g ( oz. 8 squares) plain (unsweetened)
chocolates, broken into squares.
Stir until the chocolate has melted and is thoroughly combined with the cream. Leave until cool, but not
set, then whip until pale, thick and light. Alternatively, the cooled, but
not whipped, ganache may be stirred and
poured over cakes as a chocolate icing (frosting).
GAPERON Also known as Gapron. A cheese from the Auvergne region of France
made of skimmed cow’s milk or buttermilk (gape in the local
dialect) shaped like a ball fluttered at one end, 9 cm (3 ½ in) in diameter.
The cheese is composed and flavoured with garlic and pepper, which give it a
pronounced flavour, but a strong smell is a sign that it is overripe.
The best season for Gaperon is between October and March.
GARAM MASALA A spice mixture used in
Indian cookery. The exact mix varies
according to the cook’s taste and
requirements, but mild, warm-flavoured
spices are used, typically cardamom, cinnamon,
cloves, cunnin and black pepper. The whole spices are roasted together before being ground. Because it is roasted, unlike raw spices that are cooked in
the first stages of preparation, gatam masala is one of the spice mixtures that
may be added to dishes in the finals stages of cooking or sprinkled over as a final seasoning before serving. The spice mix may be prepared especially for each dish, or a slightly
larger quantity can be made and stored in an airtight container.
GARBURE in the Beam region of France a
king of stew based on vegetable stock,
cabbage and confit d ‘oie (preserved goose). However, there are several
versions of varying richness, including briscat (maize garbure). According to tome authors, the world comes
from the Spanish garbias (ragout or stew).
This etymology is disputed by
Simin Palay:The root is undoubtedly
garbe (a sheaf or bunch). And indeed it is a bunch of vegetables which is the
very basis of the garbure.
RECIPE
Garbage
(from Simin Palay’s recipe). Boil some water in an earthnware pot glazed
on the inside (cast-iron or iron pots
spoil the delicacy of the flavour). When it is boiling, throw in some potatoes, peeled and cut into thick slices.
Add other fresh vegetables in season: haricot (navy) or broad (fava) beans,
peas or French (green) beans. Season
with salt and pepper. Cayenne may be
used in lace of white pepper. Flavour with garlic, a sprig of thyme, a
parsley or fresh marjoram. Leave the stock to cook, making sure that the water
is constantly on the boil.
Shred
tender green cabbage as finely possible, cutting across the width of the leaves
and removing any tough portions. When the rest of the ingredients are
thoroughly cooked, throw the cabbage into the boiling stock. Cover the pot to keep the cabbage leaves green and, 30 minutes before
serving, out in a piece of pickled meat, preferably goose (lou trebuc) ; the
fat on this will be sufficient. If pickled pork trebuc is used, the addition of
a little goose fat will enhance the flavour
of the stew. Cut stale wholewheat
(whole-wheat) bread into thin slices and
add to the stock and vegetables. The mixture must be thick enough for the ladle to stand up
when it is set in the centre of the
tureen.
It
is possible tomake a good garbure witout trebuc, but in that case it is necessary to put a piece to ham
bone or a sausage or, at the very least., lean bacon (thin flank) in the cold
water. White cabbage may be used instead of green cabbage. For an every day
garbure it is usual to make do with a piece of bacon or ham, or bacon chopped
with crushed garlic. According to the
time of year, a few slices of swede (rutabaga) or roast chestnuts are added.
If
dried beans are used, they have to be cooked
in advanced and drained after cooking, because, because
their water would destroy the
characteristic flavour of the garture.
To thicken the broth, the cooked beans
are sometimes crushed and rubbed through a sieve. The
meat is served separately from the
broth, either by itself or with the vegetables. Some cooks brown this case, some fat must be
added, but the fat in which the trebuc was browned should not be used.
Simin
Palay concludes: ‘A good groudale is an
indispensable complements to every garbure.’
(A goudale is the broth remaining
when the vegetables have been eaten,
which is enriched with red or white wine.)
GARDE-MANGER in a classic French kitchen
the member of the staff in charge of
cold items, hors d’oeuvres, some desserts and al decorative work.
GARFISH
orphie An elongated sea fish with
a long, spear-like snout, which has earned
of sea-snipe. The garfish has a
bluish-green back, a whitish belly and can reach a length of 80cm (3 in) and a
weighted of 1.5 kg (3 lb). The flesh has a delicate flavour and is prepared in
the same way as conger eel; it can also be fried. Unfortunately, its strong smell and the fact
that it bones, green in their natural state, become mauve when cooked are
disconcerting to some people.
GARGOTE Originally, a gargote was an in
where it was possible to each
inexpensively. Since the 19th
century the word has come to mean any small, cheap, dirty resturning
serving poor quality food, as proprietor
being called a gargotier. The word
appears to come form the Old French gargatte (throat). R Dumay, in Du silex an
barbecue, gives a more amusing
etymology; according to him, the word is derived from cargator, the cook on
board the boats carrying pilgrims to Jerusalem, who were packed together
uncomfortably.
GARCOULETTE A porous earthen vessel in
which water is cooled by evaporation.
The gangoulette usually has handle and a spout, which makes it possible to drink form it without the vessel
touching the drinker’s lips.
GARLIC A bulbous plant and, like onions,
a member of the Allium genus. It probably
originated in central Asia and has been
known since ancient times for its
curative properties. The Greks and Romans held garlic in high esteem; Hippocrates classified as a sudorific
medicine, stating that garlic was ‘hot, laxative and dituretic’. The crusades helped to make it known in Europe, where it soon took on the
role of a panacea, even against the plague and posession by devils, Its
culinary use is probably as old as its
medicinal use. One of the most widely
used medieval sauces was sauce d’aulx, in which crushed garlic was mixed either
with parsley and sorrel to accompany fish dishes or with vinegar and
breadcrumbs to go with grills.
§ Varieties. Garlic is grown and used as a condiment in
most parts of the world. The bulb or
‘head’ of garlic is formed of 12-16
bulbets, commonly called ‘cloves’, each
protected by a parchment-like skin, which
is white, violet or reddish according to variety. The most widely used garlic in France,
for example, has a white or grey skin
and is grown in Provence and southwest France. The smaller variety of garlic
cultivated in the Auvergne has a
violet-or rose-colured skin (billom pink garlic); garlic from the Douai
region has a red-brown skin. Garlic from the
Charentes is considered to be less pungent, while Spanish garlic, or
rocambole, is similar to a shallot. The most widely used garlic in the United
States is grown in California
§ Storing The bulbs must be throughly dry. They can be
sotred in a cold place (fro –0.5°C to + 1°C, 31-34°F) or at a moderate
temperature (18°C, 64°F)., either laid out flat or hanging in bunches to
improve aeration. If spots appear on
them or the cloves become soft, the garlic is no longer usable. In general,
white garlic keeps for about 6 months, pink garlic for nearly a year.
RECIPES
Garlic oil
Blanch and crush garlic cloves, add
olive oil and press through as sieve. Alternatively, add grated garlic to olive
oil and press through a muslim cloth (cheesecloth). Garlic oil is used to
season salads are raw vegetables.
Garlic puree
Blanch some garlic cloves, then gently
sweet them in butter. Add a few spoonfuls of thick bechamel sauce and either
press through a sieve or liquidize in a
blender. Garlic puree is used in sauces and stuffings.
Garlic stuffing
Crush the yolks of hard-boiled
(hard-cooked) eggs in a mortar with an equal quantity of blanched garlic
cloves. Add fresh butter (half the
volume of ingredients in the mortar),
season with salt and, pepper and press through a sieve or crush in a blender.
Chopped herbs may also be added. This
stuffing is used to garnish cold hors d’oeuvres, to spread on canapes
and in various other dressings.
Roast garlic
Remove any loose outer layers of papery
covering from a large of garlic and trim off the stalk at the top. Brush with a little oil and wrap in
foil. Prepare 1 head for 2 portions. Cook in a preheated
oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 30-40 minutes. Use a sharp knife to slice the
head of garlic horizontally in half, serve with salt, olive oil and warm crusty bread.
GARLIN, GUSTAVE French chef. Born in
Tonerre in 1839, he worked for wealthy private for wealthy private housholds
and said of himself: “I taught myself in
the embassies, in the Senate, in the ministries and in some of the better houses of the Fubourg Saint
Germain.’ He is the author of a basic
cookery book, published in 1887, le
Cusinier moderne, ou less Secrets de l’art culinaire.
GARNISH A single item or combination of
items accompanying a dish. The garnish
can be placed around meat, chicken, fish or game, or served separately.
Whether
simple or composite, the garnish always blends
with the flour of the basic dish and
the sauce (if there is one). The
range of garnishes in French cookery is very diverse, although the blending of
flavours ncessitates the use of certain traditional garnishes (leg of mutton
with small kidney beans, poached fish with boiled or steamed potatoes, venison
with chestnut puree).
Simple
garnishes consist of a single element, usually a vegetables (braised, sautéed,
bound with butter, or cooked in cream), rice or pasta.
Composite
garnishes are made from several ingredients whose flavours blend both with each
other and with the main dish. They consist of ordinary items(such as pieces of
bacon, small onions, fresh vegetables, mushrooms prepared in a variety of ways) or more
elaborate ingredients (such as cockscombs, crayfish tails, truffles,
filled croustades, quenelles, croutons) depending on the nature of the dish.
The
garnish may also be a kind of ragout, made of
a composite salpicon (chicken, calve’s sweetbreads, quenelles,
mushrooms), blended with brown or white sauce and arranged in small pastry
shells.
In
all case, the garnish should be placed around a dish so as to achieve an
overall harmony of shapes and colours pleasing to the eye.
Some
garnishes were invented by chefs of old
(Choron, foyot, Laguipiere); some are dedicated to historical figures. (gavour,
conde, Du Barry, Meyerbeer, Rossini, Talleyrand), some bear the name of the town or
region where their main ingredient orginates (anversoise, Argenteuil,
bordelaise, clamart , Nantua, Perigueux), while
others evoke either the
preparation of which they are part (bateliere, commodore, grand veneur) or
their own arrangement (bouquetiere, jardiniere).
GARUM A condiment widely used by the
ancient Greeks and Romans, obtained by soaking intestines and pieces of fish in
brine with aromatic herbs. (pissalat from Nice and the Vietnamese) nuoc-man have a similar forumula.) according to
contemporary writers, the best garum was made in Carthage using
mackerel, but it was also made with fry, salmon, sardines and shad, and there
were many variants with wine, vinegar or water, or strongly seasoned with
pepper Garum had a very strong smell and flavour and formed part of most recipes, if was also
used as a condiment added at the table.
GASCONY BUTTER beurre de gascone A
mixture of fine melted and pureed
blanched garlic cloves. This condiment
is badly named named since it does not contain butter. It is serverd with grills, breadcrumbed
preparations and boild vegetables.
GASTRIQUE A reduced mixture of vinegar
and sugar used in the preparation of hot sauces accompanying dishes made with
fruit (such as duck with orange).
Gastrique is prepared by heating together (seasoning as necessary) until the liquid has
almost entirely evapaorated.
GASTRONOME, A LA A term used to describe
a dish of pot-roastedistuffed chicken or calves’ sweetbreads with small
potached truffles, chestnuts and morels in butter, garnished with cockscombs and kidneys. The cooking pot is deglazed
with champagne and demi-glace, seasoned
with truffle essence and used as a sauce.
The
name is also given to a dish of sautéed
potatoes accompanied by truffles, attibuted to the marquis of Cussy.
GASTRONOMIC TESTS eprouvettes
gastronomiques ‘some dishes are of such
indisputable excellence that their appearance alone is capable of arousing a level-headed man’s degustatory
powers. All those who, when presented
with such a dish, show neither the rush of desire, nor the radiance of ecstasy, may justly be deemed unworthy of the
honours of the sitting, and its related delights.’
This
test, described by Brillat-Savarin in Meditation XIII of the Physiologie du
gout, was intended to identify the true
groumet. However, the test would have to be adopted according to the
gourmet’s income and social status. Brillat-Savarin, Therefore, suggested
three series of tests, according to the
gourmet’s prescribed income (mediocre, comfortable or large). The first was fillet of veal landed with fat
bacon and cooked in its own juices, or a
dish of garnished sauerkraut, followed by ceufs a la neige (floating islands);
the second was leg of salt-meadow lamb a la protencale and petits pois, or
haunch of vension with chopped gherkin sauce; and the third was a pheasant a la
Sainte-Alliance, or a seven-pound fowl
stuffed with Perigord truffles until quite round.
GASTRONOMY The art of good eating, which
Monselet defines as the joy of all situations and of al ages.
Derived from the Greek gastros (stomach) and momos (law), the word came
into general use in France in 1801, the
year that la Gastronomic on l’Homme des champs a lable by J. Berchoux was published.
Two years later, Le Gastronome a Paris by Croze Magnan appeared.
In
1835 the Academic Francaise made the word
gastronomie official by including
it in its dictionary; it therefore rapidly gained currency despite being rather pedantic and unwieldy.
Rabelais
introduced the Greek stem word into his
play Pantagruel through the character of the god Gaster, honoured by gluttons. Various
neologisms have been coined from the same model, such as
gastrlatrie and gastromamie, which designate various degrees of excessive love
of eating, and gastrotechnie, invented by E. de Pomiane, meaning the science
of cooking. But the best verbal invention is attributed to Curnonsky,
the founder of the Academie des Gastronomes, who coined the term gastronomades to designate
tourists who are lovers of regional specialties.
True
gastronomes, while appreciating the most
refined products of the culinary art, enjoy them in moderation; for their normal fare, they seek
out the simplest dishes, which are,
however, the most refined products of the culinary art, enjoy them in
moderation; for their normal fare, they seek out the simplest dishes, which are, however, the most
difficult to prepare to perfection.
Although they are not themselves
practitioners of the culinary art, they
know enough of its methods to be able to pass judgement on a dish and to
recognize the ingredients of which is composed.
In addition, they are familiar
with the history of cooking and food and
interested in foreign and exotic dishes.
On
the other hand, as J-F Revel says in Un festin en paroles. ‘The gastronome is at the same time inquisitive and timid; he explores
faint-heartedly. He spends half his time remembering past
satisfactions and the other half
sceptically calculating future possibilities.
Often,
however, gastronomy is reduced to following fashion and reflects contemporary
social attitudes. In 1925 a well-known journalist, Clement Vautel, wrote a
report on ‘snobbish gastronomy’: The
curious thing is that snobbish
gastronomes look for a traditional
classic – even rough and rustic – simplicity.
They leave the bourgeois eating swallows’ nests in pseudo-Chinese restaurants and go to
inns with a Norman décor to enjoy blanquette de veau served unpretentiously by
skilled cooks.’
GAEAU A LA BROCHE a speciality that is
chalimed tocome from both the Avenyron and the ariege regions. It is made with
a thick, oily paste flavoured with rum or orange-flower water, which is
gradually poured over a special rotating spit. The spit rod is a long cone of wood wrapped in
oiled paper, the mixture is ladled on to this as it turns slowly in front of a
very hot fire. The cake cooks in a series of layers, which are wound in a long jagged band. When the cake mixture is used up, the
cone is carefully withdrawn and the cake
is left to cool. It keeps perfectly well
for several days.
GAE-SAUCE Now synonymous with scullion’, this term
originally designated the gars de sauce, the
kitchen assistant or cooks’ boy whose job was to prepare the sauces under the instructions of
the sauce chef or head chef.
GATIS
A speciality of the rouergue region of France, made of a yeasted dough.
It was created in about 1900 in Saint-Affrique by leonie Cazes. Today
the gatis is made of bal of brioche dough in the centre of which a mixture of laguiole and
Roquefort or Roquefort and Cantal cheese is inserted; the whole is covered with a silce of Laguiole or
Cantal. The Brioche is then left to
rise, brushed with egg and baked in the owen.
GAUDEBILLAUX an old French dish akin to
tripe, which Rebelais describes in Pantagrue: Gaudebillaux is fatty tripe
from coiraux. Coiraux aer oxen Fattened
at the manger and in guimaux meadows.
Guimaux meadows are those which have two crops of grass a year.’ Rabelais states that this
tripe, prepared immediately the ox was slaughtered, did not keep for very long. ‘from which it was concluded that people
should stuff themselves with it, so as not
to waste anything’.
GAUDES A cornmeal porridge that used to
be the traditional evening meal in
Burgundy, Franche-Comte and Bree.
The word is derived from gaude, a
plant yielding a yellow dye, which was
grown in France in the 19th
century. However, some inhabitants of
Franche-Comte claim that it comes from the Latin gaudeamus (let us rejoice)
Gaudes
is served hot in a soup plate or a bowl, and topped up with milk, cream or even
wine. Sometimes pieces of larding bacon are added. The thick
porridge may also be poured into a large dish, spread out and left to cool. It can then be cut up into pieces, browned in a
frying pan in butter and served as a dessert with caster (superfine) sugar, jam
or honey
GAULOISE , A LA The term applied to a
number of quite elaborate dishes incorporating cockscombs and kidneys. These
include a chicken consome blended with tapioca and garnished with poached cockscombs and kidneys; soft-boiled
(soft-cooked) eggs on eroutons with a salpicon of ham in tomato sauce.
Garnished with browned kidneys and
cockscombs, and a garnish for bouchees or tantlets, made of cockscombs and kidneys with a
salpicon of truffles and mushrooms added,
thickened with supreme sauce flavoured with Madeira.
However,
cockscombs and kidneys are not included in the garnish a la gauloise for
large braised or poached fish. This
consists of barqueates filled with a
salpicon of trufles and mushrooms in cream thickened with matelote sauce, and
trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon.
GAZELLE’S HORN An Oriental
crescent-shaped pastry made from two types of paste. One is a mixture of ground
almonds, sugar, butter and orange-flowered water, which is rolled into small
sausage shapes abroad the size of a finger. The other is a very smooth and
elastic dough, which is rolled out to a
thickness of 2-3 cm (about 1 in.)
this dough is cut into 10-12 cm (4-5 in) squares, on each of which
is placed an almond-paste sausage,
diagonally across. Each square is then, rolled into a crescent shape
Gazelle’s horns are cooked in a warm
oven and sprinkled with icing (confectioner’s) sugar.
GAZETIN DU COMESTIBLE A periodical that
appeared between January and December 1767, the
object of which was to tell its readers how to obtain all the necessary foodstuffs to eat well. Although this forerunner of modern culinary
guides ran for only 12 issues, it
provides valuable information on the provisioning of Paris in the 18th
century and the prices that were
charged.
GAZPACHO A Spanish soup, originally a
labourers’ dish, made with bread and
vegetables, including cucumber, tomato, onion and red (bell) pepper. Seasoned with olive oil and garlic and
sharpened with vinegar, the soup is served ice cold. It is commonly served with
bowls of garnished, such as chopped black olives, red pepper, hard-boiled
(hard-cooed) egg and croutons rubbed with garlic. Its name of Arabic origin, means ‘soaked bread’.
Traditionally prepared in a large clay bowl, which gives it a characteristic taste, gazpacho
originally came from Sevelle but there
are numerous variants. In Jerez
it is garnished
It is garnished with raw onion rings, in
Mahalaga it is made with veal bouillon and sometimes garnished with grapes and almonds, in Cadiz it is severved
hhot in winter; in Cordoba it is thickend with cream an dmaize flour (commeal);
in Segovia it is flavoured with cumin and basil and prepared with a
mayonnaise base.
Alice
B. Toklas, in her Cookery Book, states that a
Chilen writer of Catalonian origin, Marta Brunei describes gazpacho as
the meal of the Spanish muleteers, who take
with them on their travels an
earthen dish, garlic, olive oil, tomatoes and cucumbers, as well as some
dry bread, which they crumble up. By the
side of the road, they crush the garlic between two stones with a little
salt, then add some oil. They coat the
inside of the dish with this mixture.
Then they cut up the cucumbers and tomatoes and place them in the dish
in alternate layers with breadcrumbs,
finishing with a layer of breadcrumbs and oil. Having done this, they take a
wet cloth, wrap the dish in it and leave it in the sun. the contents are cooked by evaporation and
when cloth is dry, the meal is cooked’.
RECIPES
Sevill gazpacho
Put 4 crushed garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon, ½ teaspoon ground cayenne and the
pulp of 2 crushed medium-sized tomatoes
in a bowl. Thoroughly mix these ingredients and add 4 tablespoons olive oil
drop by drop. Then add a Spanish onion cut into slices as thin as tissue paper,
a green or red (bell) pepper (cored and diced), and cucumber (peeled, seeded
and diced) and 4 tablespoons croutons.
Add 750 ml (1 ¾ pints, 3 ¼ cups) water and mix well, Serve chilled.
Lobster gazpacho
Peel and slice 100 g (4 oz.)
cucumber. Wash the white part of 4 leeks and 4 sticks of celery
and cut them in Julienne strips. Blanch
all these vegetables in boiling salted
water (5 minutes for the cucumber, 10
minutes for the leeks and celery).
Drain, cool under cold water and dry thoroughly. Remove the leaves from
a bunch of chervil. Peel, seed and slice
1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb.) tomatoes. Seed and
slice 350 g (12 oz.) red (bell) peppers. Peel and seed 250 g (9 oz) raw cucumber, peel and crush 5 garlic cloves. Cook 4
lobsters for 5 minutes in court-bouillon, shell them, put aside the coral and
cut the flesh into slices. Arrange the slices on a large dish.
Liquidize
the raw vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, garlic and cucumber) with pursley, salt,
pepper and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Put the vegetables puree into a saucepan and
bring to the boil to made a bouillon. Separately, bring to the boil 500 ml (17
fl oz, 2 cups) single (light) cream. Mix the vegetable bouillon and cream
together, adjust the seasoning and boil the mixture for 2-3 minutes. Take off
the heat, blend in the reserved coral
and strain. Pour this puree over the lobster slices and leave to cool.
Refrigerate
until well chilled before serving.
Garnish with the slices of cucumbers, the blanched jullence of leeks and
celery and the chervil leaves.
GEFILTE FISH A classic Jewish cold fish
dish, suitable for the Sabbath, when, according to the strict rules of the religion, cooking is
not allowed. Originally is stuffed freshwater
fish-pike or carp-with the cooked flesh carefully removed and borned, then
combined with matzo meal and seasonings
before being stuffed back into the skin and poached. (Gefilite means stuffed) in Yiddish.) the
modern version differs in the fish mixture is shaped into the skin. The poached
fish halls are glazed with a little of the cooking liquor, which sets in
the same way as aspic, and are served
cold with a beet-roof (beef) and horseradish sauce. White sea fish may be used instead of pike or
carps.
GELATINE A colourless, odourless
substance extracted from the bones and cartilage of animals and from certain
algae (agar-agar, alginates). Gelatine
can be in the form of powder of
translucent leaves. It is soaked in cold
water until it swells and is then
dissolved either over or with a little boiling water and blended with the
mixture for which it is intended. Gelatine is used for making jellies, numerous
cold or iced desserts, and for the fining of wines and fruit juices. It is also
used in industrial confectionery.
§ Using
gelatine leaf gelatine should be soaked in cold water until soft, then drained
and dissolved in a measured quantity of hot water, stirring occasionally, until
the liquid is clear. Powdered gelatine should be sprinkled evenly over the surface of a small
amount of cold water and left, without stirring, until it swells and becomes
spongy. Then it should be dissolved over a pan of simmering water until clear.
Adding a small amount of dissolved
gelatine to a very cold or chilled liquid or mixture will make it set almost
immediately into strings or lumps.
Dilute the dissolved gelatine
with liquid or a liquid mixture at room
temperature before combining it with any chilled mixture or ingredients.
The
amount gelatine to use depends on the set required, which may be soft and slightly
creamy or firm enough to support the shape of a moulded mixture. As a guide, I
sachet powdered gelatine usually contain
7 g (1/4 oz.), the equivalent of 2 ¼ teaspoons.
This is sufficient to set 600 ml (1 pint, 2 ¼ cups) liquid, giving a
soft set. For a firm set – for example
to support pieces of fruit in a moulded jelly or terrine – allow 4 teaspoons powdered gelatine
to 600 ml (1 pint, 2 ½ cups). When using
leaves, allow 3 leaves to set the equivalent of 7 g (3/4 oz) or 2 ¼ teaspoons powdered gelatine.
GELLING AGENT A food additive used to give a preparation a
jelly-like consistency. The main gelling
agents are pectins, alginic acid and its derivatives (E400-405), agar-agar, carrageen,
starch and carob been gum, which are
used in a variety of products, including flans, ice creams, jams and porridge.
GENDARME A popular French name for pickled herring,
referring to the stiffness of the fish when it
is dried and smoked.
The
name is also given to a small, flat sausage of
Swiss origin (called landiager), which is common in Germany and
Austria. Rectangular in shape, it
is made of lean beef and pork fat, dried
and smoked, and eaten or cooked.
GENEPI An alpine species of wormwood,
well known for its tonic properties. It
is used in the preparation of herb teas and is the main ingredient in a number
of plant liqueurs, including the famous genepi des Alpes.
GENEVOISE, A LA A tem used to described fish dishses
served with genevoise sauce, made of fish fumet, mirepoix and red wine;
thickened with butter Genevoise sauce was originally called genoise (Careme’s recipe is made with consomme and
espagnole sauce), the name being changed to avoid confusion with Genoese sponge
cake. Nevertheless, some cookery books
still include a ‘genoise sauce’, made in
the same way as genevoise sauce but with white wine. A variant of genevoise sauce, called gourmet
sauce, includes lobster butter, crayfish tails, quenelles and truffles, and is
used to coat slices of eel cooked in court-bouillon.
RECIPES
Genevoise sauce
Crush 500 g (18 oz0 salmon
trimmngs. Peel and dice a large carrot
and a large onion. Cut 10 parsley sprigs
into small pieces. Sauce all these in 15
g (1/2 oz. 1 tablespoon) butter for 5
minutes over a low heat. Add a sprig of thyme, half a bay leaf, pepper and the fish trimmings. Cook very slowly in a covered saucepan for 15
minutes. Add a bottle of red wine (Chambertin or Cotes-du-Rhone) and
a little salt to the pan juice. Boil
down slowly for 30-40 minutes.
Strain the sauce, then thicken it
with 1 tablespoon beurre manie (1
tablespoon anchoy butter may also be
stirred in). adjust the seasoning.
Genoise sauce
Pour into a saucepan 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1
cup) red Bordeaux wine. Add 2 tablespoons fines herbes (consisting of
mushrooms, truffles, parsley and 2 shallots, all blanched and chopped), a small
pinch of quatre-epices (a mixture of white peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon or
ginger and cloves), and a pinch of
finely ground pepper. Boil down almost completely, add 2 tablespoons consume.
250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) espagnole sauce
and 120 ml (4 ½ fl. oz. ½ cup). Bordeaux wine. Boil down to the desired consistency and transfer the sauce to
a bain marie. Blend in a little unsalted butter just before serving. (Traditionally, high quality butter
from isigny, Normandy, would be added.)
GENOA CAKE pain de genes A. types of rich sponge cake
made with ground almonds, not to be
confused with genese sponge cake. Of varying degrees of lightness, depending on whether or
not the beaten egg whites are incorporated
separately, Genoa cake is traditionally cooked in a round mould with a fluted
edge. It is served plain or with various decoration and filings.
RECIPE
Genoa cake
Work 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter
into a soft paste with 150 g (5 oz. 2/3
cup) caster (superfine) sugar, then whisk until the mixture becomes white.
Blend in 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) ground almonds, then add 3 eggs, one bay one, 40 g
(1 1/3 oz. ½ cup) cornflour (cornstarch) and a pinch of salt. Work everything
well together. Flavour the mixture with 1 tablespoon liqueur (such as Curacao). Butter a round cake tin (pan), line to bottom
with a circle of buttered greaseproof (wax) paper, and pour
in the mixture. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C.(350°F, gas 4) for 40 minutes
turn out immediately on to on to a wire rack and remove the paper.
GENOESE SPONGE Genoise a light sponge cake that takes its name from the city of Genoa. Genoese sponge is made of egg
and sugar whisked over heat until thick, then cooled and combined with flour
and melted butter. It can be enriched
with ground almonds or crystallized (candied) fruits and flavoured with liqueur, the rind (zest) of citrus
fruits or vanilla. Genoese sooner (which
should not be confused with Genoa cake) differs from ordinary sponge cake in
that the eggs are beaten whole, whereas in the latter the yolks and whites are
usually beaten separately. Genoese
sponge is the basis of many filled cakes.
Cut into two or more layers, which may be covered with jam, cream or
fruit puree, it is cooled, iced (frosted) and decorated as required.
Recipes
Genoese sponge
Melt 125 (4 ½ oz, ½ cup) butter gently
without allowing it to become hot. Put
275 g (10 oz, 1 l/3 cups) caster (superline) sugar, 8 beaten eggs, 2 large
pinches of salt and l teaspoon vanilla sugar into a basin and place it in a
tepid bain marie; whisk the mixture until it becomes thick, pale and
foamy. Remove from the heat and continue
to whisk until it cools down completely.
Carefully fold in 250 g (9 oz, 2 l/4 cups) shifted flour and then
trickle in the tepid melted butter at the side of the bowl. Mix in gently until it is evenly
blended. Pour this mixture into a large
buttered sandwich tin (layer cake pan) and bake in a preheated oven at 200°C
(400°F, gas 6 ) for 25-30 minutes. Make
a syrup with 150 g (5 oz 2/3 cup) water and boil for 4-5 minutes. When cool, add 2 ½ tablespoon white rum and pour
this syrup over the cake while it is
still warm.
GENTIAN. A plant from the mountains of
Europe, picked especially in the Jura and the Alps. The root is used as a substitute for
cinchona. Before the latter was introduced into the Old World
(1639), the large yellow gentian (Gentiana latea), the panacea of the mountain
dwellers was prescribed as an infusion or
a syrup as a tonic, stimulant and fehrifuge. Nowadays it is mainly
used for its aperitif and digestive
properties properties. Gentian essence, amber yellow in colour is an
excellent bitter tonic with a strong pungent flavour; it is an ingredient of
many aperitifs.
GEORGETTE A name given to various dishes
at the end the 19th century.
It was the title of a play by Victorien
Sardou, which had a successful run at the Vaudeville Theatre in Paris in
1885. Pommes Georgette, which were
served for the first time at the Paillard restaurant near the theatre, are
potatoes cooked whole, hollowed out,
then stuffed while still hot with a
ragout of crayfish tails a la Nantua. Poached
or scrambled eggs Georgette are served in potatoes with the same garnish. There
is also a georgette soup cream of tomato
and cream of carrot mixed and blended with perles da japon (tapioca). Finally, crepes Georgette are sweet pancakes
filled with a salpicon of pineapple in
rum thickened with apricot jam. Sprinkled with sguar and glazed in the oven.
GERBAUDES A traditional festival held at
the end of the harvest in the central provinces of France, also called
‘Revolle’ in Dauphine and Lyonnais and
‘chien de Mosson’ “Tue-Chien’ or Chien’
in Franche-Comte, Lorraine, Cote-d’ Or
an dChampagne. Elsewhere, there were
different festivals to mark the end of
other great agricultural events, such as
walnut gathering. The common
feature of all these festivals was a gargantuan communal meal, accomapnied by
singing and dancing ceremonial dishes were served on these occasions roast
cockered in Sologne, rabbit au sang in
Cher and Indre, and tripe in Creuse, collection of legends, religious precepts
and rules for practical living, in which
the human body is represented in the form of circle associated with primodial foods
palm sugar, wine, ghee, milk, yogurt and water. The best ghee is made of butter
from buffalo’s milk (which is twice as rich in fat as cow’s milk). It is used as an ingredient in pattisserie, as a
cooking fat and to enrich vegetable purees, rice and dal. Among poorer people glace is made of sesame
oil or mustard. In Nepal it is made of yak’s milk.
RECIPES
Gherkins a la russe
Boil some salted water with caster
(superfine) sugar, using 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar per 1 letre (1
¾ pints, 4 1/3 cups) water. Allow
to cool completely. Wash some large
fresh gherkins in warm water and cool them in cold water. Drain and pat
dry. Lay them in a jar in layers,
separating each layer with a few fragments of fennel sprigs and, if available,
a few fresh blackcurrant leaves (taken from the ends of the twigs). Press down well. Fill the jars with salted
water ( it should completely cover the gherkins) and leave to marinate in a
cool place for at least 24 hours serving.
When
preserving these gherkins, they can be sterilized, but they become softer in
the process.
Gherkins picked in vinegar (prepared
cold).
Prepare and marinate the gherkins with
salt as in the previous recipe. Then
wash in vinegared water; wipe them dry one by one and place them in jars. Add
peeled white pickling onions, some fragments of bay leaf, sprigs of thyme and
taragon (which have been scalded, cooled
and dried), 2-3 cloves, 1 - 2 small garlic cloves, 1 small chill, a few
black pepper-corns and a few coriander seeds. Cover with white vinegar, seal
the jars hermetically and store in a cool place. These gherkins can be eaten after 5-6 weeks,
but they will improve with time (up to a year).
Gherkins pickled in vinegar (prepared
hot)
Rub the gherkins with a rough cloth,
then place them in a terrine. Add some coarse salt, stir and leave for 24 hours. Remove the gherkins and
dry them by one. Place them in a terrine and cover with boiled white wine vinegar. Marinate for about 12 hours. Strain off the
vinegar and add 500 ml (17 fl. oz. 2 cups) fresh vinegar, bring to the boil
and, white still boiling, pour over the gherkins. Repeat the process the next
day, then leave to cool completely.
Scald some jars with boiling water and
let them dry lay the gherkins in them in layers, adding seasoning every 2 layers (fragments of bay
leaf, sprigs of thyme and tarragon, which have been
scaled, cooled and dried, cloves and 1 – 2
chillies per jar). Cover with
vinegar, seal the jars with cork stoppers and store in a cool place.
GIANT GRANADILO Known as barbadine in
Africa. This is a climbing
plant originally from South America, introduced to the West Indies in the 19th century. Related to the passion flower, it
green avoid fruits are 20-30 cm (8-12 in).
long. When unripe they are used
as vegetables in the same way as
squashes or vegetable marrow As they ripen they become yellowish, and their
tart, whitish flesh is then used as for passion fruit, for example in the preparation of drinks, jams and sorbets. The
bark of the plant is used to made a jelly.
GIBELOTTE A savoury stew of rabbit in white or red wine.
The word derives from the Old French gibelet (platter of birds), which was
prepared in this way. Pieces of rabbit are browned in the fat of
blanched and sautéed bacon. They are
then floured, put in a cocotte with the
bacon, some small onions and a bouquet garni, and moistened
with bouillon and wine. Mushrooms are
added during cooking, and pounched liver when the rabbit is cooked. In Quebec a gibelotte is a ragout of various vegetables
and fish.
GIBLEST The edible inner parts of
poultry, including the gizzard, heat, liver and kidneys, plus the external
giblets - the head, neck, pinions
(wingtips) and feet.
The
external giblets of large poultry (chickens, turkey, greese) can be bough separately in France and are used to
make ragouts, fricassees and pot-au-feu.
Giblets are a common ingredient in French home cooking, the internal
gablets being used in stuffings,
garnishes, terrines, pies and even kebabs of fritters.
§ Duck
and goose giblets. Only the neck, gizzard, liver and heart are used. The feet are not cooked, and the
opinions are not separated from the
body. Heart: simply take it out. Necle,
cut it off close to the head and the
body, then remove the skin. Liver, separate it from the entrails, then remove
the gall bladder, taking care to cut generously around it in order not to burst
the bladder because the bitter bile would make the liver inedible. Gizzard: remove the thick skin with the tip
of a sharp knife and use only the two fleshy parts.
§ Chicken
and turkey giblets. These are prepared in the same way, but while the head and feet of
the chicken are eaten, only the turkey’s
pinions, heart, liver, gizzard and neck are used. Pinions separate them from the bird at the first joint and cut
them off at the second. Neck slice it off close to the head and body, then remove theskin. Heart and liver prepare these as duck. Gizzard; slit it on the flesh
side without piercing the graved-sac,
which should be thrown away, chicken’s feet. Cut off the claw-joint, then singe
and skin the rest. Head singe the head of
a chicken (do not use a turkey)
RECIPES
Giblet a la bourgeoise
Dice 100 g (4 oz) thick streaky (slab)
bacon and blanch for 5 minutes in
boiling water. Strain and leave to cool.
Prepare (800 g (1 ¾ lb) turkey or chicken giblets. Peel 100 g (4 oz) small onions, 300 g (11 oz)
baby carrots and a garlic clove. Brown the diced bacon in a sauté pan in 25 g ( 1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter,
lard or goose fat, then strain and remove from the pan. In the same fat cook the onions until golden, strain
and remove. Next brown the giblets (except the liver) in the pan, then add the
crushed garlic. Sir well, prinkle on 25 g (1 oz. ¼ cup) flour, and mix in until coloured. Add 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) dry white
wine and let it reduce for a few
minutes. Season lightly and add a bouquet garni, the bacon, onions
and carrots, and 1.15 litres (2 pints, 5 cups) water or poultry stock to cover
the giblets. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about
30 minutes. Add the liver and stir
gently, then continue cooking for about 10 more minutes until the liver is cooked. Place the giblets and vegetables in a shallow
dish and pour the sauce over.
Giblets a la bourguignonne
Prepare as for giblets a la bourgeoise
but replace the carrots by 100 g (4 oz.
2 cups) buttons mushrooms and the white wine by red Burgundy.
GIGONDAS Red or rose AOC wine from
vineyards at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail in the Rhone valley. The red wines, produced mainly from Grenache,
Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsaut grapes, are
powerful, spicy and tannic, and the best can be bottle-aged for at least ten
years. Roses, how ever, are usually
drunk young.
GIGOT A French cut of meat corresponding
to a leg of mutton or lamb. The name derives frome the word for an ancient
musical instrument (gigue), which had the same shape. The whole gigot (haunch or long leg) consists of the actual
leg itself (or gigol racourici, short leg) and the muscles extending form it, which
form the French out quasi or selle de gigot (chump end – not to be confused
with the English saddle). The two pieces can be cut and cooked separately:
the chump end, tied up with string, can be a very fine roast, whereas the short
leg may be roasted, boiled, pot-roasted, braised or even sliced and grilled (broiled). By steeping a short leg of mutton in a marinade
before cooking in the oven, it is
transformed into gigot chasseur, tasting of venison. The flavour of lamb
combines well with garlic, and roast gigot of lamb studded with garlic and
garnished with kidney beans is the French traditional dish for family
celebrations and special meals. The leg can also be cooked with white wine, bacon and onions with juniper
berries, garnished with red cabbage; or with caper sauce, garnished with
steamed potatoes and trunips. Other recipes include brochetes a la turque (lamb
on skewrs) an ddaubes or braised dishes, such as the famous gigot de sept
beures or a la cuiller, which is cooked
for a long time over a very gentle heat, so it can be cut with a spoon, and served with the braising liquor strained
and boiled down. Gigot of lamb can also
be served cold with aioli, in aspic with a green salad or with a spicy tomato
salsa.
Let
of lamb is carved either paralleled to
the home ( the slices are all equally cooked) or perpendicular to the bone, slightly on the slam (the meat is more
tender, but cooking is graduated ) lamb
cooked in.
Braised leg of lamb a la bordelaise
Cok a leg of lamb in a mixture of butter
and oil in a covered casserole in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4),
allowing 40 minutes per 1 kg or 20 minutes per 1 lb., plus an additional 40 or
20 minutes. When one-third done, add 575 g
(1 ¼ lb.) tiny potato balls and 250 g (9 oz.) fresh cep or button
mushrooms, lightly tossed in oil.
Season. When the leg and garnish are cooked, sprinkle with noisette butter in which 4 tablespoons breadcrumbs and 1 tablespoon
chopped parsley and garlic have been fried.
Braised leg of lamb with spring onions
Calculate the cooking time for a leg of
lam at 40 minutes per 1 kg. 20 minutes per 1 lb. Plus an
additional 40 or 20 minutes. Cook the lamb in a covered flameproof casserole in a preheated
oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 25 minutes, them drain. Melt some butter in the casserole. Lightly coat 1 kg (2 ¼ lb.) spring onions
(scallions) in sugar, them fry them in
the butter. Place the leg of lamb on
the onions and put the casserole back in
the oven. When the onions have softened, add 2
tomatoes, peeled and cut into 8 pieces,
and 500 ml (17 fl. oz.2 cups) white wine. Complete the cooking process, turning
the leg to make sure it is browned all over
and basting it as required with reduced beef stock.
Remove
the leg of lamb from the casserole, draining off all the cooking liquor. Drain the spring onions. Cover both and keep hot. Thicken the cooking
juices with beurre manie. Carve the lamb.
Arrange the spring onions on plates and coat with the sauce. Arrange the
lamb on the plates and serve.
Lea’s roast leg of lamb
Crush 4 anchovy fillets in 4 tablespoons
olive oil mixed with 2 level tablespoons mustard, sage, basil, rosemary and crushed garlic. Rub the meat
with this mixture and marinate for 2
hours, turning from time to time.
Calculate the cooking time for the lamb at 30-40 minutes per 1 kg. 15-20
minutes per 1 lb. Plus an additional 30-40 or 15-20 minutes according to how
well cooked you require the meat to be when served. Drain and roast in a prehated
oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6).
While
the meat is cooking, boil down the marinade with some butter, gradually adding
half a bottle of champagne. Strain and thicken with softened butter.
Roast leg of lamb
Stud the leg near the projecting bones
with 2-3 cloves of garlic. Cook it on a spit or in a preheated oven at 220°C
(425°F, gas 7), allowing 20-22 minutes per 1 kg (9-10 minutes per 1 lb). Place it on a long serving dish and serve
with a sauce made from the cooking
juice, kept quite fatty, with slices of
lemon and chopped watercress. Roast leg
of lamb is accompanied by Franch (green) beans in butter, white haricot (navy)
beans in juice, or vegetables prepared a la jardiniere or as a pouree.
This
is the French method for roasting lamb, and
the flesh will be pink. For fully
cooked meat, reduce the oven temperature to 190°C (375°F, gas 5 ) when placing
the joint in the oven and allow 45 minutes per 1 kg (20 minutes per 1 lb) and
add 20 minutes to the total time.
Roast leg of lamb en chevreuil
Completely skin a very fresh leg of lamb
and lard with lardons. Then put it in a
special marinade; see chevreuil, en. Leave it to steep for some time, depending
on the tenderness of the meat and the temperature (2 days in summer, 3-4 days
in winter). Dry the leg with a cloth, then roast. Serve a roebuck
sauce or a poivrade sauce separately
Roast leg of lamb with 40 cloves of
garlic
Desalt some anchovy fillets. Trim a leg
of lamb as necessary. Stud it with
silvers of garlic (2-3 cloves) and the anchovy fillets cut into fragments.
Brush with a mixture of oil, thyme,
powdered rosemary and pepper. Roast on a spit or in the oven as for roast leg
of lamb, basting occasionally with a little
of the herbs and oil. As the meat starts to cook, put 250 g (9 oz) unpeeled garlic cloves into boiling water
after boiling for 5 minutes, drain the garlic and put into a saucepan with 200
ml (7 fl oz. ¾ cup) stock. Simmer for 20
minutes. Add a small cup of this liquor
to the meat juices and pour over the
meat. while completing the cooking wash some watercress thoroughly in running water and
chop coarsely. Arrange the leg on a serving dish, surround by the cloves of
garlic and chopped watercress. Serve the juice in a sauceboat.
Split-roast leg of lamb with parsley
spit-roast a leg of lamb. Before cooking is completed, cover it evenly with a
layer of fresh breadcrumbs mixed with chopped parsley and possibility some
chopped garlic. Finish cooking the lamb until the surface turns golden brown. Put it on a long serving dish and garnish
with chopped watercress and halved lemons. Serve the juice separately.
GIGUE Haunch of roebuck or deer, also
called cuissot in Franch. Once the sinews are drawn a haunch is usually studded
with lardons, marinated if necessary, then roasted in a preheated oven at 200°C
9400°F, gas 6). Allow 30 minutes per 1
kg. 15-18 minutes per 1 lb. Celeryor chestnut puree, mushroom fricassee and
red- or whitecurrrant jelly are the
conventional garnishes.
GILBERT, PHILEAS French cook (born la
Chapelle-surDreause, 1857; died Couilly-Pont-aux-Dames, 1942. After an
apprenticeship as a cook/ astrycook in Sens, he travelled around France,
working with Escoffer, Emile Bernard, Ozanne and Monagne. He became a great practitioner, theoretician and
scholar. The author of numerous books,
including la Cuisine retrospective, 1
Cuisine de tous les mois and L’Alimentation et la Technique culnaire
a travers les ages, b collaborated in
the writing of Escoffier’s Guide culinaire.
He wrote numerous articles in professional magazines and cookery
journals, becoming know for raging controversies with his colleagues.
GILLIERS. The official chef of King Stanislas
Leszezynski. In 1751 he published Le
Camameliste francais (camamelisie comes from cammamelle or came a mel, an old
French term for sugar canel. This is a
valuable document both for its history of
friandises (sweet delicacies) and for its illustrations by Dupuis,
engraved by Lotha, which depicted the masterpieces of 18th-century
glassware and gold smiths’ work.
GIMBLITTE A small ring biscuit (cookie) in the shape of s crown, a speciality of Albi. The
word seems to come from the Italian ciambella (a ring shape cake similar to an
echaude). The dough-made from flour, gournd almonds, sugar, egg yolks yeast and
grated criton, orange lemon rind (zest) -
is not the same as that for echaudes, but the cooking principles is the
same the biscuits are first immersed in boiling water, then drained, dried and browned in the oven. Fernande Moliniet, a
pastry-cook in Albu and author of Recberches historiques sur les specialities
gourmandes du Tarn, thinks that gimblettes were invented by the monks of
Nonterre, who entrusted the recipe to the canons of Albi in the 15th
century.
RECIPE
Orange gimblettes
Grate the rind (zest0 of half an orange
on a lump of sugar, crush the sugar to a fine powder and mix it with caster (superfine) sugar so that the
whole amount measures 175 g (6 oz., ¾
cup). Pound thoroughly 100 g (4
oz. 2/3 cup) fresh almonds.
Place 225 g (8 oz. 2 cups) sifted
plain (all-purpose) flour in a circle around this mixture, and in the centre
put 15 g (1/2 oz. 1 cake) fresh yeast dissolved in 70 ml (2 ½ fl oz. ¼ cup) milk. Add 50 g (2 oz, 4 tablespoons) butter, 2 egg
yolks, a pinch of salt, the almonds and the orange-flavoured sugar. Knead all these ingredients in the usual
way and leave the dough in a warm place for 5-6 hours to allow the yeast
to ferment.
Knock
back the dough and divide it into 5-6 strips, each the with of a little
finger. Cut the strips diagonally into pieces 13 cm (5 in)
long. Make these into little rings so that the joins are invisible . drop the rings into
a large saucepan of boiling water. Stir gently with a spatula for a few minutes
to prevent the rings from sticking and to bring them to the surface. Drain them
and drop them into cool water. When cold, drain again, them toss to dry them.
Dip
each ring in a little beaten 2gg (2 eggs should be used in all) 2-3 times.
Leave them to drain for few minutes. Arrange them carefully on 3 lightly
greased baking sheets and bake them in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6)
for 20-30 minutes, until they are a good colour.
Little
plaited biscuits (cookies) or little rolls about as long as a thumb can also be made this way. These
gimblettes may also be flavoured with
the rind (zest) of lemon, citron or
Seville (bitter) orange, or with aniseed, vanilla or orange-flower water.
GIN pure alcohol, distilled usually from grain, into which are infused
aromatic plant products, particularly
oil of jumper. The two basic types are Dutch and British. Dutch gin (genever),
directly stemming from medicinal compounds evolved in the Netherlads in the 16th
century, is heave aromatic, it is
usually drunk chilled and neat. Dry gin, the universal style, originated
in London in the 1879s. Much lighter and more popular than the older genever,
it is essentially a versatile mixing spirit – with tonic water, juices and in
numerous cocktails. Dry gin is made in
many countries, with many premier brands carrying English names flavoured gins
have declined, but sloe gin is still
popular in Britain and the United States. Gin’s culinary uses are confined mainly to offal and game dishes.
GINGER A
plant of South-east Asian origin that is cultimated in hot countries for
its spicy, aromatic rhizomes (underground stems), which are used fresh,
preserved in sugar or powdered. Widely appreciated in the Middle Ages ginger was used as a
flavouring and as a sweetmeat. Since the 18th century it has fallen
out of use in classic European cookery,
except in patisserie and confectionery, biscuits (cookies), cakes, pickles and
jams, particularly in Britain, Alsace and the Netherlands, and for flavouring
drinks. However, it continues to be an
important seasoning in eastern cookery – fresh or dried, grated or preserved in sugar, syrup or vinegar. In India and
Pakistan it is used to flavour curries, meat, fish in sauce, rice and vegetables purees, and to
flavour tea. In China and Japan it is
widely used fresh, shredded in court-bouillon, marinades and soups.
It is an essential seasoning for fish and whale fillets. It is also eaten pickled between courses. In south-east. Also crystallized (candied) ginger is the
most widespread sweetmeat.
RECIPE
Ginger cake
Cut 100 g 94 oz. ½ cup) preserved ginger
into very small cubes. Soften 100 g (4
oz. ½ cup) butter with a wooden
spatula. Vigorously whisk together 3
large eggs, 1 tablespoon rum and 2 tablespoons hot water. When the mixture is thick and foamy, gradually add 175 g (6
oz. ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, continuing to whisk, Sift together 250 g
(9 oz. 2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour and 2 teaspoons baking powder, make a
well in the middle and blend in the beaten eggs, the softened butter and the ginger. Mix well and pour into a buttered marigue
mould or deep sandwich tin (layer cake pan) 22 cm (8 ¼ in) in diameter. Bake in a preheated oven at
220°C (425°F, gas 7) for about 40 minutes.
GINGER ALE Aereated water to which
colouring and ginger essence are added, often used to make gin or whisky into a
long drink.
GINGER BEER A fizzy soft drink,
traditionally widely consumed during summer months in Britain. One traditional method of making home-made
ginger beer is from a ginger ‘plant’, by fermenting ground ginger and sugar
with yeast in a small amount of liquid for about a week. Sugar is added daily
to ‘feel the plant. At the end of this
fermentation, the plant is strained and the liquid diluted with lemon juice,
water and sugar, then bottled. The
bottles have to be stored with their caps loose initially
then, when fermentation has subsided, the caps are tightened and the bottles
stored in a cool place. The result is a bubbly, spicy, lemon drink.
GINGERBREAD British Gingerbread is a cake flavoured with ginger and trache (molasses). The French equivalent (pain
d’epice), whose name means literally
‘spice bread’, is a cake with a basis of
flour, honey and spices (it need not contain ginger). The use of honey
as the only sweetening product for breads or cakes goes back to ancient times
. aristophanes mentions melitunta, which
was made with sesame flour, eggs and
fresh cheese, and coated generously with
honey after cooking. The Romans prepared
penis mellitus with German wheat flour, honey, pepper and dried fruit. The Chinese making (honey bread) is mentioned
as part of the rations of the horseme of Genghis Khan. It is generally)
believed that Gingerbread was introduced to Europe during the time of the
Crusades. At Pithiviers, however, it is
held that Gingerbread was introduced
into the city by St. Gregory, an American bishop who took refuge there in the
11th century. Whatever the case, it was from that time that the
manufacture of Gingerbread special into the Neitherlands, Britain, Germany,
Belgium, France and Italy.
The
guild of pain d’epiciers, founded at Reims, was officially recognized by Henri
IV in 1596. Accroding to A. Sloamovici in Ethbnocuisine de la Bourgogne (1973), pain d’epice ‘was the
monopoly of the city of Reims, and at
first manufactured exclusively with rye flour. In Burgundy, however, the
boichet or boichee, made with wheat flour, honey and leaven, had been known
since the 14th century, and
gauldery bread, made of honey and millet flour, was known in the 25th
century.’ Reims retained the monopoly
until the Revolution, then Dijon, where the local production gave rise to
a flourishing trade, took it cover.
Gingerbread was formerly regarded
primarily as a fairground delicacy. In Paris the Gingerbread Fair, which became the Throne Fair in the 19th
century, had been held since the 11th century on the site of the
present Saint-Antoine Hospital, where there
was then an abbey. The monks sold their
won ginger bread cakes there, in the shape of the little pigs. Gingerbread
was sold in many different shapes (animals, little men, flowers) as well as the
large traditional pure or the ball.
Belgium speculos, which are made
of gingerbread, depict all kinds of popular characters (harlequin,
Columbine, Saint Nicholas).
Today
two types of gingerbread are made in
France that of Dijon, made with wheat flour and egg yolks; and couque, made with rye flour.
The demi-couque, or couque batarde, made
with a mixture of flours, is used mainly for the large gingerbread pure loaves.
In industrially manufactured products,
the honey is totally on partially replaced by
other sweetening agents (invert sugar, glucose, grape must) and the
spices are often artificial essences. However, it is always prepared according
to the traditional method: the flour and sweetening agents are mixed together and matured in a cool, dry
place for about a month (formerly for
several months). It is then mixed with
baking powder and spices, shaped, glazed with mil and eggs, and baked in the
oven Ordinary gingerbread is baked in pave loaves, while fancy gingerbread is
cut into hearts and various other shapes.
Although
it is eaten mainly at teatime or at
festivals (particularly in Belgium and Germany), gingerbread also has some uses
in cookery, for thickening sauces, ragouts and carbonades, especially when beer
is used in the recipe.
Gingerbread
can easily be made at home. The best
results for pain d’epice are achieved with a strongly flavoured honey,
traditionally buckwheat or heater honey.
Wheat flour is generally used (sometimes mixed with rye flour), and
flavourings can include orange-flower
water, orange or lemon rind (zest), star anise or cinnamon, or a mixture of
spices as well as ginger. Orange or apricot
a mamalade may also be added to the mixture.
After baking the top of the cake may be decorated with pieces of angel
green walnuts or candied orange peel.
RECIPES
Gingerbread
Warm together 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup)
margarine or lard (shortening) and 200 g (7 oz. ¾ cup) milk and allow to cool.
Sift 200 g (7 z. 2 cups) plain (all-purpose) four, 1 teaspoon mixed spice,
2 teaspoons ground ginger and 1 teaspoon
bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a bowl.
Add the treacle mixture , 50 g (2 oz. ¾ cup) brown sugar and 2 eggs.
Beat well. Pour into a 18 cm (7 in). square tin (pan) lined with
greaseproof (wax) paper. Bake in preheated oven at 150°C (300°F, gas 2 )
for 1 ¼-1 ¼ hours, until firm to the touch
Pain d’epice
Heat 500 g (18 z. 1 ½ cups) honey to
boiling point, then skim it. Place in an
earthenware bowl 500 g (18 oz. 4 ½ cups)
sifted plain (al-purpose) flour make a well in the centre, pour the honey into
it and mix a wooden spoon. (some flours
absorb more liquid than others; it may be necessary to add more liquid in order
to obtain a firm paste.) Gather the paste into a ball, wrap it in a cloth and
let it stand for 1 hour. Then add 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder and
knead the paste thoroughly. mix in 2 teaspoons aniseed, a generous pinch of
cinnamon, the same amount of powdered cloves and ½ teaspoon grated lemon or
orange rind (zest).
Alternatively,
mix the sifted flour directly with the same weight of liquid honey. Let the paste sand, then knead it hard with
100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda
(baking soda). 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) skinned and chopped almonds and 65 g (2 ½ oz.
½ cup) mixed and chopped can died orange
and lemon peel.
Pour
the mixture into a 23 cm (9 in) square cake tin (pan) or a buttered manque
mould. Bake in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F, gas 5 ) for
about30 minutes, as soon as the cake is cooked, quickly brush the top with some
milk sweetened to a thick syrup or with sugar cooked to the fine thread stage
(see sugar) and glaze for a few seconds in a
cool oven.
GINGER WINE Water, ginger, yeast, sugar,
lemon, raisins, pepper and sometimes alcohol; mixed with whisky to make Whisky Mac.
GINKGO NUT The oval, pale green fruit of
the Asian ginkgo tree. The olive-sized kernel is much used in Chinese and
Japanese cooking, either roasted or
grilled (broiled), as a garnish for fish or
poultry or, in the autumn, simply as a dessert nut. A typical dish
consist of large prawns (shrimp mixed
with ginkgo nuts, pieces of chicken and mushrooms cooked on hot cooking
salt in an earthenware casserole.
GINSING The root of a plant growing in
mountainous regions of Korea and Manchuria.
It is considered to be the ‘root of life’ by the Chinese, who have attributed many
therapeutic, magical and aphrodisiac
properties to it. Used mainly in a tonic drink, ginseng is also used to make a
herbal tea, sweets (candies), pastilles, dyes and ointment. It can also be presented whole in alcohol or
dried and used as seasoning in the same
way as ginger. Its taste is similar to that of fennel.
GIRAUMON
A type of ground cultivated mainly in the West indies and some tropical countries. There
are two varieties : one with a large fruit (3-4 kg. 6 ½ - 9 lb)., the other with smaller fruit
(about 1 kg 2 ¾ lb.), the latter being preferred, because giraumons do not keep once they are opened . its finn flesh is sweet and slightly musky. Also called bounnet turc
(turkish bonnet) and citrouille iroquoise (iroquois pumpkins), garamons can be
eaten raw like cucumbers, but are
usually cooked like pumpkins, especialy in West Indian cookery (in a ratatouille
called giraumonnade and in ragouts). When green, they are used to make jam, and
the leave are sometimes used like sorrel.
GIRELLA girelle a small, brightly
coloured Mediterranean rock fish, with
spikey rays on its dorsal fin. Its flesh
is delicate and tasty but full of bones.
Girella is sometimes served fried,
but it is used mainly in bouillabaisse.
GITE A LA NOIX A French cut of beef from the top of the leg. With the round of beef, which extends from it, it was formerly classified as braising
meat but is now used for grilling (broiling) and roasting. The
round of beef is lean, tender and tasty, Gite a la noix is also used to make steak tartare and beef
on skewers. For roasting, it is larded
and tied with string.
GIVRY Red and white AOC wines from the
Cote Chalonnaise in southern Burgundy.
The reds are made from Pinot
Noire, the Whites from Chardonnya. The Cote Chalonnaise has a proud history and is
said to have been plnated with vien since Roman Times.
GIZZARD A digestive pouch in birds,
consisting of a thick muscle. If the gizzard is not cooked with the bird or if it is not minced n the stuffing,
it can be fried or roasted separately (particularly duck or goose gizzard) or prepared in a ragout of
giblets. It is also often preserved . when a chicken is
drawn, the gizzard is slit in two to remove the small stones and the thick
envelope that surrounds them.
GJETOST originally made in Norway form
goat’s milk whey, this sweet, brown cheese is now factory made from pure goat’s
milk or a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk, which is cooked until
caramelized. The designation Ekete Gjetosi on the label means
that the cheese is made solely from
goat’s milk-gjet means goat in Norwegian . it is moulded in blocks weighing between 200 g (7 oz) and 4 kg (9
lb.).
GLACE Describing fruits that are
crystallized (can died) or in liqueur and petits fours that are coated with a
syrup cooked to the ‘crack stage’ so that they have a had, shiny layer. The word is also used for
fruits and chestnuts (marrons glaces0 preserved in syrup.
In
France the term is also applied to many iced desserts and drinks, and to cakes
and pastries covered with icing (frosting).
GLASSWARE Common soda glass is
transparent or translucent materials made from the fusionof silica (sand, sodium carbonate 9soda) and calcium
carbonate (lime). Crystal glassware is made from flint glass a very clear glass
containing lead oxide, silica, potassium carbonate and potassium nitrate, good quality crystal glass makes a clear ringing
sound when struck. Common and crystal
glassware may be engraved, coloured or gilded. In spite of its fragility and
poor resistance to sudden changes in
temperature, glass is widely used for table- and kitchenware, no to
mention bottles, because of its transparently
and resistance to chemicals.
The history of glass. Egyptian paintings
show that the art glass-blowing was
known as far back as the 4th
century BC, and glass objects have been in
existence for more than 5,00 years, until the Middle Ages, however,
pottery utensils were more common in
ordinary household, glassware being rather rate
and served for luxury use. The glass industry in France dates from the Gallo-Roman era. In the 6th
century the glassware of Clotaire I consisted of concshaped, stemless goblets,
their borders decorated with a fine strip of coloured glass. There were also
bottles and white-enamelled dessert
cups. But the use of glass in tableware
as we know it today did not come until the 14th century. The 16th-century Venetian glass-blowers
where the first to obtain a colourless
glass which they named cristallo.
Shortly afterwards, the glass-makers of Bohemia discovered that clear
glass could also be made by adding limestone to the glass paste. However, it
was an Englishman, George Ravenscroft,
who in 1675 discovered lead crystal. In
France the Cristallieries de Baccarat dates, in its present form, from 1816.
§ The
industrial and technical progress made during the 19th and 20th
centuries has produced a wide range of
drinking glasses. Venetian glass
ornamented with filigree work, heavily glasses ornamented with filigree work,
heavily patterned Bohemian crystal,
coloured and engraved tall wine glasses from the Rhine and wide-mouthed flute glass from Dutch glassworks have become
collectors’ items. Coloured glass is
not often used for wine glasses, so that
the natural colour of the wine may be
appreciated. The wine glass should never be completely filled, and it
must be wide enough for the aroma of the wine to be appreciated, since part of the pleasure of drinking wine is to sample its
bouquet.
§ Glassware
for a formal meal, three matching glasses are required (in decreasing size) for
water, for red wine and for white wine. The set is sometimes completed by a
champagne flute. However, it is inadvisable to set out too many glasses,
because they can get in the way of the cutlery and the setting is, therefore, often reduced to two
glasses, one for water and the other for
wine. For an informal meal, the latter may be used for several different wines
or be changed in the course of the meal.
Glasses come in a wide range of shapes
and sizes . most wine-producing regions
have designed thin walled glasses of a particular shape to allow the best
possible tasting of their wine glasses are used for Cognac, Armagnac and
marc brandy; liqueur glasses are usually
short and narrow, made of thicker glass and often without a stem. Beer is served in a tankard or tall glass. ‘short’ cocktails are served in a cocktail
glass of 80-120 ml (2 ½ - 4 fl. oz ¼- ½
cup) capacity, while long drinks are served in a tall 300 ml (10 fl. oz., 1 ¼
cups0 Collins glass. Large glass goblets
may be used for mineral water and fruit cups, medium goblets for wines and for
aperitifs with water or a mixer, and small goblets for dry aperitifs, port and
short drinks, such as sherry. There are also various specially designed glasses, such as champagne tulips and brandy
goblets. A mixing glass may be used instead of a cocktail
shaker to prepare cocktails, it has
capacity of 600-700 ml (20 fl oz., 2 ½ cups).
GLASSWORT A small fleshy plant, also
called marsh samphire, with salty sap.
It grows in European salt marshes as far
north as Norway and also in the camargue (mistral calls it sans-souiro). It is
similar to rock samphire. The plant is harvested in summer for its
tender green tips, which an be eaten in
a salad, cooked like French(green) beans or pickled and used as a
condiment, like gherkins (sweet dill pickles.).
GLAZE OR STOCK GLAZE glace de cuisine A
syrup substance obtained by boiling down an unthickened stock of meat, poultry,
more rarely game, or even fish. Stock
glazes are used as an essence to be added to certain sauces in
order to enhance their flavour or to
baste dishes to be browned in the oven.
They are also used as the base for a sauce when adding other ingredients.
Stock
glazes may be sued to speed up the preparation of soups, coulis and aspics.
Ready-made meat glazes, marketed as ‘extracts’ or ‘essences, are available,
they are mostly made of beef and
vegetable matter. They after a more limited range of flavours than cooked glazes, but the latter
no longer play as important a role in cooking as they used to because they take
a long time to prepare, as is demonstrated in this impressive recipe taken from
secrets de la nature et de l’art concenant les alimetns (1769).
‘Take
a quarter of large ox, a whole calf (or
a party only, depending on its size), two sheep, two dozen old hens and two old cocks, or a dozen old
turkeys, pluched and drawn. After defatting all this meat and scalding and cleaning the calf’s and sheep’s feet separately, put It all in a
large boiler. Add the hot liquor from
12-14 litres of stag’s horn gratings, boiled separately, and put through
the press. Then pour four buckets of
spring water over it all. Put the lid on the boiler, sealing the edge with
a flour-and-water paste. Apply a weight of 50-60 pounds. Boil the meat over a low even flame; without
skimming it, for 6 hours or more if necessary, until it is sufficiently cooked, when the bones can be
easily detached. Remove the largest
bones, leaving the boiler over the heat to keep the meat very hot. Take
the meat our as quickly as possible; chop it up immediately and then
part it in large press with hot iron planes
to extract all the juices as soon as the operation is completed, add the
extracted juices to the hot stock left in the boiler and strain immediately through a large horsehair
strainer’
The
word ‘glaze’ is also used for any substance used to give food a glossy surface
RECIPE
Meat glaze
Glace de viande Remove all the fat from
a brown stock. When it is as clear as
possible, boil it down by half. Strain
through a muslim cloth (cheesecloth), then boil it down again and strain. Continue this
process until it will coat the back of a spoon, each time reducing the
temperature a little more as the glaze
becomes more concentrated. Pour the meat glaze into small containers and keep
them in the refrigerator.
A
similar method is used with a poultry or game
stock to obtain a poultry or game glaze.
By boiling down a fish fumet to a syrupy
consistency, then decanting it and straining it through muslim a light-coloured fish stock is
obtained, which is used to enhance the
flavour of a fish sauce or to pour over fish before putting it in the oven.
GLAZING The process of creating a glossy
surface on food. This may be achieved by
several method according to the effect required.
Gold
food is brushed with such glazes as arrowroot, aspic, jelly, stock glazes and
sugar syrup.
Desserts,
such as fruit tarts and flans, babas and
savarins, are coated with a fruit glaze, a liquid jelly made from finely
sieved apricot jam or redcurrant jelly, usually with gelatine added. Ass well
as being decorative, this prevents the fruit from drying out or oxidizing.
Food
that is to be baked, particularly
pastry, is coated with whole beaten egg, egg yolk only, milk or milk and sugar
Hot
cooked food, particularly vegetables, can be glazed either by cooking with
butter, sugar and very little liquid or by brushing with melted butter when
cooked.
Food
coated with sauces that are rich in egg yolk, cream or butter is grilled
9broiled) under, or baked in, a very high heat to forma shiny brown surface.
In
France the term glacage is also used for glazing cakes with icing (frosting)
and for the preparation of many cold or frozen desserts and chilled drinks.
CLOUCESTER A traditional English
cow’s-milk cheese, with a firm, close
texture. Double Gloucester is langer than Single Gloucester, which is seldom
made now. The main difference is that Single Gloucester is
made with skimmed evening milk and whole morning milk, while Double Gloucester
is made with whole milk. Gloucester is compact and smooth, with a delicate and creamy flavour.
It is sued for making sandwiches and canapes, but it is also sometimes served as a dessert, with a
salad or a fruit campote.
GLUCOS The simplest of the carbohydrates
and the end product when carbohydrates
digested by the body. Glucose is present
in the blood and is used as a source of energy by the body. It is found naturally in ripe fruit and
honey.
Glucose
is made industrially by heating starch with various acids. This
produces dextrins first and then an impure form of glucose itself. Two
forms of glucose are used commiercialy,
viscous and semi solid. Glucose has many
inudstrial uses, notably to increase the
sugar content of wine and bee, and in
the manufacture of syrup, confectionery and jam. Liquid glucose (corn
syrup or clear corn syrup in America) is a clear syrup of glucose and
other sugars. It is used in the
preparation of sugar paste and to
prevent sugar syrup from crystallizing.
CNOCCHI Small dumplings made of flour,
semolina (semolina flour), potato or choux pastry. They are usually poached, then they maybe cooked au gratin in the oven and served
as a hot entrée. This dish is Italian in origin (the word means ‘lumps’) and is classified with pasta, but is is also
found in Austro-Hungarian and Alsatian cookery in the form of Knepfle, knodel, noques or
quenelles, which are all quite similar.
Italian
gnocchi alla Romana are made with
semolina, egg and cheese; gnocchi a la parisienne are prepared from
chorux pastry with milk and cheese; and
gnocchi a la plemontaise or a l’alasacienne are made with potato puree, eggs
and flour. The basic ingredients can be varried by incorporating various cooked vegetables (pumpkins, spinach,
green vegetables, beetroot), which colour the gnocchi, by varying the cheese
(Emmental, Parmensan, Ricotta) or the flour (maize, wheat); and by including
chicken liver or brains, herbs and condiments (nutmeg, fines herbes, paprika,
oregano, parsley).
RECIPES
Potato gnocchi
Cook 3 medium-sized potatoes in boiling
salted water for about 20 minutes. Meanwhile grate 6-7 medium-sized peeled
potatoes and squeeze them in a cloth to extract as much water as possible. Peel and mash the cooked potatoes, then
mix them with the grated raw
potatoes. Add 100-125 g (4-4 ½ oz. 1
cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, then 2
whole 2 eggs, one after the other. Mix
thoroughly. Boil some salted water use 2 spoons to shape the paste
into small, round portions. Drop them
into the water and leave to simmer for 6-8 minutes. Drain the gnocchi and place them on a
cloth. Butter a gratin dish and arrange the gnocchi in it,
coated with 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) crème fraiche and sprinkled with grated
cheese. Brown in a very hot oven.
Gnocchi a la parisienne
Make some choux pastry using milk
instead of water and flavour with grated
nutmeg. Add 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup) grated
parmesan per 500 g (18 oz) dough. Boil
some salted water, using 1 tablespoon salt per 1 litre (1 ¾ pints. 4 cups).
Push the dough through a piping (pastry) bag fitted with a large plain nozzle sot that it drops into the water
if piece measuring about 3 cm (1 ¼ in.).
poach for a few minutes, then drain and arrange on a cloth. Line a gratin dish with Mornay sauce, place
the gnocchi in it, cover them with more
sauce, place the gnocchi in it, cover them with more sauce, sprinkle with grated Gruyere, and pour over melted
butter. Brown quickly in a preheated oven at 250°C (480°F, gas 9).
Gnochi alla Romana
Pour 125 g (4 ½ oz. ¾ cup) semolina into
500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) boiling milk
and stir to obtain a very thick smooth porridge. Add salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, then 100
(g 14 oz. 1 cup) freshly grated permesan
cheese and 25 g (1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter. Allow to cool slightly and then
beat in 1 lightly beaten egg and 1 yolk.
Spread
the paste evenly on a moistened slab or
in a tin (pa), leave to cool completely, then chill until firm. Cut with a
pastry (cookie) cutter into rounds about
5 cm (2 in) in diameter. Arrange the
rounds in a buttered gratin dish and sprinkle with extra grated Parmesan
cheese. Pour over melted butter and
brown slowly in the oven. Alternatively, deep-fry small balls of this paste,
drain on paper towels and serve immediately, with tomato sauce if liked.
(The paste can also be made without butter or grated cheese.)
Gnocchi with herbs and tomatoes
Wash 500 g (18 oz). Potatoes and bake them in their skins in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4 ) for 40 minutes. Peel them white still hot and mash them to a puree. Arrange them with a well in the middle and
allow to cool. Peel and seed 500 g (18
oz). Ripe tomatoes and cut into small
cubes. Chop up ½ onion, 1 shallot and 1 small celery stick. Heat some olive oil
in a sauté pan and stir in the onion,
shallot, celery and I garlic clove. Remove
the later when it is golden. Now add the tomatoes, fry for a few
minutes, then add a little basil, rosemary sage and mint. Season with salt and pepper and reduce the
cooking juices. Then add 100 g (4 oz. 1
cup) plain(all-purpose) flour2 pinches nutmeg.
3 egg yolks and 50 g 92 oz. ½ cup) freshly grated Parmesan cheese to the
potato puree. Add a little flour to make
a ball that is neither too dry nor too
moist divide into 100 g (4 oz). Chunks and shape into cylinder on a floured surface. Cut the cylinders into small pieces and press
them to the back of a fork to make a slightly concave shape with ridges.
Poach the gnochi for 6-8 minutes in boiling salted water.
GOAT A domestic animal bred mostly for
its milk. In France, where a wide variety of goat’s-milk cheese is produced,
the main rearing areas are Poitou, Berry, Dauphine and Touraine.
Goat’s
meat is fairly firm. With a pleasant flavuor
but a strong smell. It is consumed principally in the regions where the goats are bred; when the
animal is young, it is eaten roasted or marinated, sometimes even smoked and
dried (in the mountains). The male
(bouc) is today eaten only when a kid, but for
centuries, in spite of its leathery flesh and pungent smell it was a
basic meat of the poor, the word boucherie (butcher’s shop) is derived from
bouc.
GOAT’S-MILK CHEESES cheveres in France
cheeses prepared exclusively form goat’s milk contain at lead 45% butterfat. Mic-chevre cheeses are made from a mixture of
cow’s milk and goat’s milk (at least
25%). Among the best known French goat’s-milk cheeses are cabecou,
Chabichou, Chevreton, Crotin, Poulgny-Saint-Pierre, Saitne-Mure,
Selles-sur-Cher, valencay.
Goat’s
milk is a increasingly being used in order
countries to make both hard and
soft cheeses include MinGabhar from Country Wexford in Ireland, Forroche,
Tymshoro, Vaulscombe and Wigmore from
Englant and Wales; and Coach Farm and Cypress Grove in the United States of America. Firm goat’s
– milk cheeses include. Ticle More
from Devon and Ribbles-dale from Yorkshire in England, from Yorkshire in
England; Pen y Bont from Wales; and Idaho Goatster in the United States of
America.
GOBLET A wide-mouthed drinking vessel.
Antique goblets were made of gold and silver, often exquisitely engraved and
embellished with precious stones
GOBO A root of a variety of burdock. It
is long, thin and brown, and is commonly used in Japan a condiment, finely chopped usually
blanched. Gobo has a flavour similar to
that of cardoon and is used in cooking stocks and vegetables
mixtures.
GOBY gobie A small sea fish, known in
France asgoupon de mer, of which there are numerous types. Its flesh has a
delicate taste, but because it is so
small it is usually served fried.
GODARD A classic garnish for large cuts
of meat, poultry, and calves’s sweetbreads. According to the dictionaries de l’Academic de gastronomes, it
was dedicated to the farmer-general and man of letters Godard d’Aucour 17-16-95) , but other
authorities say that it is named after
the chef the cusine of the Elysee Palace
at the time of Sadi-Carmot. The garnish
consists of quenelles. Lamb’s
sweetbreads and glazed), cockscombs and kidneys, small truffles
and fluted mushroom caps. These are covered by a sauce made of
white wine or champagne with a
ham mirepoix.
RECIPE
Godard sauce
Cook 2 tablespoons ham mirepoix in
butter, add 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) champagne, and boil down by half. Moisten with 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) demi-glace sauce and 7 tablespoons
mushroom essence and boil down again by one one-third strain.
GODIVEAU The delicate forcemeat,
consisting of veal and fat, used to make quenelels, which are served as hot
entrée or used to fill vol-au-vent or used to fill vol-au-vent or to accompany
meat dishes. The word seems to be a
corruption of gogues de veau (goguees of veal). Godiveau can also be made from fish (pike in
particular) or poultry. The mixture, which must be very smooth, spring and yet
firm, requires quite along preparation time, because the raw meat and fat are
pounded with cream or panada, eggs
and seasoning.
RECIPES
Godiveau Iyonnais
Pound together in a mortar 500 g (18 oz)
trimmed diced beef suet, 500 g (18 oz) frangipane panada and 4 egg whites (these ingredients may first
be put through a blender0. Add 500 g (18
oz) pike flesh and season with salt and pepper. Work vigorously with a spatula,
then with a pestle, rub through a fine sieve, place in an earthenware dish and
work with a spatula until smooth.
The
forcemeat is shaped into quenelles and poached in salted water when served as a garnish for pike.
Godiveau with cream
Chop up 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) fillet of veal and pound it. Also chop up and pound 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) beef suet.
Mix these ingredients together and add 1 tablespoon salt , ¼ teaspoons pepper, a pinch of grated
nutmeg, 4 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks, grinding vigorously with a pestle
the whole time, rub the forcemeat
through a fine sieve and spread it on a
board. Leave on ice or in the
refrigerator until the next day. Put the
forcemeat back in the mortar and pound it again, gradually adding 750 ml (1 ¾
pints, 3 ¼ cups) single (light) cream.
To
test the consistency of the godiveau, poach a small ball and rectify if
necessary, adding a little iced water if it is too firm or a little egg
white if it is too light. Shape
into quenellies and poach.
GOGUES Savoury black puddings 9blod
sausages) that are specifically of
Anjou. Made of vegetables bacon, cream and blood, they are poached in boiling
water, then cut into slices and fried.
RECIPE
Gogoues
Chop 250 g (9 oz) onions, 250 g (9 oz)
spinach beet leaves, 250 g (9 oz)
spinach leaves and 250 g (9 oz) lettuce leaves.
Season with salt and pepper, leave to stand for 12 hours, then braise
over a very gentle heat with 40 g ( 1 ½
oz. 3 tablespoons) lard in a casserole. Dice 250 g (9 oz ) fat bacon and cook
without browning. Add to the chopped vegetables and season with a pinch of
cinnnamon and mixed spice. Take of
the heat and add 7 tablespoons double (heaveY0 cream and 250 ml (8 fl.
oz. 1 cup) pig’s blood. Adjust the seasoning.
Fill a pig’s intestine with this mixture, twisting it very 10-15 cm (4-6
in) after filling. Poach the gogues in salted water, just below boiling point,
for abut 30 minutes. When they rise to the
surface, prick them with a pin to prevent them from bursting, drain and leave to cool. When they
are cold, cut the gogues into thick
slices and brown them in butter or lard
in a frying pan.
GOLD a precious metal used for
decorative tableware or as a veneer, in the
form of silver gilt. Gold also has some culinary uses. In the Middle
Ages pates and roast birds were wrapped in thin gold leaf. Even today, chocolates (palets d’or) are
decorated with a tiny piece of gold leaf, and minute pieces of gold are
suspended in the liqueur Danziger (goldwasser, which is used to flavour soufle Rotchshild. It is
also an authorized food additive (e175), a colouring agent for characterie, confectionery and cake
decorations.
GOMPHIDE A fleshy, viscous mushroom
that grows under conifers. It is edible
if peeled carefully, although its flesh
turns black when cooked. It is usually sautéed in oil and served with noisette butter and a
little fresh cream.
GONDOLE A decoration consisting of a
stiffened white table napkin, reinforced by a sheet of greaseproof (was) paper
or foil and foled using a particular technique into the shape of a curved
horn. In catering gondoles are used to
decorate the two ends of a long dish when serving fish.
GOOSE A migratory bird originally prized
as a game bird and later domesticated. The Romans practised the forcefeeding of
geese; the preparation of foie gras
there fore has a long history.
All
breeds of domesticated goose are probably descended from the greylag
goose. In France geese providing foie
gras may weigh up to 12 kg (26 ½ lb) after fattening ; they are found mainly
around Toulouse, landes and strasboung.
White geese, from Bourbon or Poitou, are descended from the snow goose, and they weight less (5-6 kg. 11-13lb.). laying
birds may be kept until they are five or six yeas old; because the meat is by then very thought
and dry, it is usually stewed or preserved table geese are killed at three
months, by which time the breast is well developed and the meat has a
delicate flavour. In areas where geese are bred primarily for
foie gras, the reminder of the bird (the meat and carcass, called the paletot0
is sold as it is, or cut up and preserved, or made into rillettes. The gizzard,
heart, tongue, neck and giblets are all used in various savoury dishes. Today,
in spite of competition from the turkey, roast goose is still the typical dish
cooked at Christmas and New Year in Scandinavia
and Germany. Formerly in Britain roast goose with sage and onion stuffing
was served at Christmas and Michaelmas. Two famous recipes for cooking
goose come from northern Europe: goose a
Pinstar de Vise from Belgium and smoked goose from Pomerania. Many of the recipes given for cooking turkey
and chicken can be used for goose.
RECIPES
Balotine of goose with Savingny-les-Beaune
take a young goose weighing about 3.5 kg. (8 lb) and cut off the wings and legs. Bone the legs and remove the meat from the
wings to make the forcemeat. Remove the Supremes from the
carcass and refrigerate until required.
Stuffed goose legs en ballotines Mines
(grind) the reserved wing meat and the liver very finely. Place in a bowl over a dish of ice and work the mixture until smooth. Then blend in an egg
white followed by 300 ml ( ½ pint,
1 ¼ cups) double (heavy) cream. Add salt., pepper and a pinch of cayenne
pepper, and 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) boiled diced chestnuts, stuff the boiled legs
with this mixture, shape them into
ballotines and tie them. Spread some slices onion over the base of an
ovenproof dish and lay the carcass of
the goose on top. Then place the ballotiens
on top of the carcass and briase them in a preheated oven at 180°C
350°F, gas 4 ) for 45-60 minutes,
basting frequently so that they
remain moist. (The reminder of the
stuffing can be use to make godiveau.)
Chestnut custards (Mix 300 ml (1/2 pint,
1 ¼ cups single (light) cream 3 whole eggs, 150 g (5 oz. ½ cup) chestnut puree
and 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) boiled diced
chestnuts. Butter 8 small
dariole moulds and divide the mixture among them. Cook in a bain marie
in preheated oven at 170° C (325°F, gas 3 0. Leave for a few minutes before unmoulding.
Onions stuffed with garlic puree Blanch
8 medium sized Spanish onions in fast-boiling salted water, refresh them and drain them carefully. Peel
500 g (18 oz) garlic cloves, cook them
in milk, drain them and rub them through
a fine sieve. Reheat them with a little cream. Stuff the onions with the garlic puree, filling them to the top.
Accompanying sauce remove the fat from
the liquor in which the ballotines were
braised and deglaze the pan with a
bottle of Savigny-les-Beaune. Reduce by
one-third, strain and thicken the sauce
with 200 g (7 oz. Scant 1 cup) butter.
Adjust the seasoning.
Fried Supremes fry the Supremes in the
goose the until the outside the golden
brown but the inside is still pink.
Presentation on each plate, place a thin
slice of supreme, a slice of ballotine, a stuffed onion and a chestnut custard.
Pour the sauce around the items without
covering the sliced meant. Serve the rest of the sauce separately.
Goose a la bourguignonne
Dice 100 g (4 oz) blanched lean bacon
and fry it is 25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) butter. Using the same pan, fry 20 small onions and then 20 sliced mushrooms. Remove them and
brown the goose all over in the same butter.
Remove the goose, deglaze the pan with 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) red
wine, boil down to reduce it by half and
then add 400 ml (14 fl. oz. 1 ¾
cups) demi-glace sauce (or
reduced stock). Boil for 5 minutes and
add a bouquet garni. Put the goose back into the pan. start the cooking over a high heat, then reduce the heat, cover the pan and cook gently for
30 minutes. Add the bacon, onions and mushrooms and continue to cook over a moderate heat, with the pan
still covered, for 45-60 minutes. Remove
the bouquet garni, and either serve the goose and its accompaniments in the cooking dish or arrange it on a large
serving dish and pour the sauce over it.
Goose a l’alsacienne
Braise some sauerkraut with a small
piece of lean bacon, Stuff a goose with 1 sausagemeat seasoned with salt,
pepper, a pinch of alispice and a little chopped onion and parsley. Truss and roast the goose as for roast with sage and
onion stuffing, basting it frequently. When the goose is half-cooked,
add a little of the goose fat tot
the sauerkraut and continue
cooking. Poach Strasburg sausages gently in hereby simmering water. Spread the sauerkraut over a long serving dish and
place the goose in the centre. Cut the bacon into pieces and orange them around the bird, alternating
the bacon with the sausages. Keep everything hot. Skim the fat from the goose cooking juices
and deglaze the pan with white wine and
an equal quantity of stock. Boil down to
reduce. Serve the sauce separately.
Goose a l’instar de Vise
Take a 3.5 kg (8 lb) goose that has not yet started laying and poach it in
white stock flavoured with 2 heads
(bulbs) of garlic for 1 ½ hours. Drain
it, cut into pieces and place these in a sauté
pan. Moisten with goose fat and simmer, with the lid on , until cooked.
Meanwhile,
prepare a veloute sauce using the goose
fat (for the roux) and the cooking juices from the goose. Cook over a low heat
for 1 hour. Thicken the veloute with 4
egg yolks, then pass it through a very
fine strainer. Add a few tablespoons a cream and a puree of the garlic that was
cooked with the goose.
Drain
the pieces of goose and add to the sauce. Heat well and serve in and a deep
dish.
Goose en dube Capitole
Stuff the goose with a fine forcemeat
mixed with foie gras and diced truffles. Truss
and braise it in the usual way. When it is almost cooked, remove the string used for trussing and pour the
braising liquid through a fine strainer. Put the goose back into the pan with
250 g (9 oz.) small mushrooms, an equal
quantity of stoned (pitted) blanched olive
and 250 g (9 oz small fried chopolatas. Pour the cooking juices over the
goose and finishe cookingin a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4 ).
Goose hearts en papillotes
Cut 4 large squares of foil. Place 3 carefully cleaned goose
hearts in the centre of each square together with 100 g (4 oz) cleaned
and sliced cep mushrooms. Season
generously with salt and pepper and fold the foil into parcels, sealing the edges
thoroughly. Place them on a grilover very hot embers. Cook for about 20 minutes
on each side.
Goose in the pot
The day before it is required, stuff a young goose weighing
about 3.5 kg (8 lb0 with the following mixture: the chopped liver and
heart. 2-3 diced applies and 3-4 desalted anchovy fillets pounded to a
paste. Leave the goose in a cool place
for 24 hours. The following day make a stock with 20 unpeeled garlic
cloves, a bouquet garni and an onion
studded with 2 cloves. Stud the
goose allover with garlic and poach it
in the stock for 1 ½ hours, skimming the
pan when it comes to the boil.
Stew
some dessert apples and add to them 2 desalted, pounded anchovies and 1 cup of
the strained cooking stock. Prepare some small
gougeres: for every 2 eggs used
for the dough, add 100 g (4 oz) Gruyere cheese and 1 pureed anchovy fillet.
Serve
the goose very hot, accompanied by the apple and garnished with the gougeres.
Roast goose with fruit
Stuff a goose and roast it as of roast
goose with sage and onion stuffing. While
it is cooking poach some quartered
pears in boiling syrup until translucent.
Peel and core some small apples and
sprinkle them with lemon juice. Fill the centres with redcurrant jelly. Half an hour before the goose is
cooked, place the apples around it
and bastewith the goose fat that has collected in the pan. complete the cooking. Place the goose on a
long serving dish and arrange the apples
and the drained pear quarters around it.
Keep hot at the front of the oven.
Eglzae the cooking pan with a little of the pear syrup, reduce the
liquid by half and pour it into a sauceboat (gravy boat).
Stuff
the goose with this mixture and sew up the
vent. Calculate the cooking time
at 40 minutes per 1 kg. 20 minutes per
1 lb. in, in a preheated oven at 180°c
(350°F, gas 4 ). Drain off excess fat during roasting. Place it on a long
serving dish, pour over the deglazed
cooking juices and serve with
unsweetened or very slightly sweetened
apple sauce.
GOOSE BARNACLE A type of barnacle, which
is permanently attached to a rock by a
long, stalk-like foot. In Biarritz it is
called operne, in Brittany it is caled
poche-pez; while in saint-jean-de-Luz it is known as lamperna. It is found in
large numbers on rocky reefs battered by the
sea but is so difficult and dangerous
to harvest that it rarely appears on the
dining table. However, the
natives of Biarritz, insist that it is delicious when cooked for 20 minutes in
a court-bouillon 9only the foot is edible).
It is the emblem of a gastronomic
society, les chevaliers de l'Operne,
which is dedicated to increasing the
consumption of seafood.
GOOSEBERRY The fruit of the gooseberry
bush, a large berry with a slightly hairy, green, ambergreen or pink skin. The French name, grosseille a maquerean,
derives from the use of the fruit to prepare
a sauce traditionally served with mackerel. Gooseberries are grown on a small scale in France and on a large scale in the Netherlands and
Britain.
Depending
on type, gooseberries may be eaten raw with sugar or sued to make tarts,
sorbets. Fools, jellies and syrups. The
larger, pink, fruit are sweeter than the small green varieties and are known as
dessert gooseberries. They are used in
puddings, chuttneys and fruit salads and
in sauces to complement fish and duck.
They freeze well.
RECIPES
Gooseberry jelly
Remove the stalks from 3 kg (6 ½ lb)
gooseberries and put them in a pan. cover and heat them, shaking them from time
to time until the skins bursts. Puree the fruit in a blender, then strain. Pour
the juice obtained back into the pan.
add 2.5 kg (5 ½ lb. 11 cups) granulated sugar and the juice and grated rind
(zest) of 2 lemons. Cook over a high heat for
5 minutes, then lower the heat and cook for 15 minutes. Skim and pot.
Gooseberry sauce
Cook 500 g (18 oz) gooseberries in a
saucepan with 500 ml (17 fl. oz. 2 cups) water and 6 tablespoons sugar. When
the pulp becomes very soft, strain and serve
piping hot. If the gooseberries
are very ripe, add a few drops of lemon
juice.
Gooseberry syrup
Mix a few tablespoons of water with 1 kg
92 ¼ lb. 4 ½ cups) caster (superfine)
sugar and cook to the large ball stage
(see sugar). Add 500 ml (17 fl. oz., 2 ¼
cups) strained gooseberry juice. Bring
to the boil once more and then leave to
stand, skim, then cook until the
temperature reaches 103°C (217°F).
Strain, bottle and seal.
GORENFLOT The name of one of Alexandre Damas’s heroes , a
larger-than-life monk who appears in La
Dame de Monsoreau and les Quaranite-Cinq.
In the middle of the 19th
century, this name was given to a large
hexagonal baba, created by the
Parisian pastrycook Boubonneux, and also to a garnish for pieces of
braised meat, consisting of a julienne
of red cabbage, slices of saveloy sausage and stuffed potatoes.
GORGONZOLA A DOP Italian cow’s-milk
cheese (48% fat), white or light yellow and streaked with blete Gorgonzola
should be delicate and creamy with a natural grey rind, pitted with red. It
has a distinct smell and can have a mellow, strong or sharp flavour, depending
on its degree of maturity (it is repened
dry, in a cold, damp cellar. Cylindrical
in shape, 25-30 cm (10-12 in) in diameter and 16-20 cm (6 ¼ - 8 in) high, it is
wrapped in silver paper bearing its
trademark due tot he special manufacturing techniques that hot curds form the morning milking are used to the line the
moulds, while the cold curds from the
evening milking are placed in the middle.
Contrary to the normal manufacturing
technique for blue cheeses, the mould Penicillium glaucum is not
included.
The
history of Gorgonzola is connected with the migration of cattel from the Alps
to the south of the plains of the Po. Tired from their journey (structure in
the Lombard dialect), the cattle were rested in the small town of Gorgonzola in the region of Bergamo. Their milk
was used to make a soft cheese, Stracchino di Gorgonzola, Apparently, it
was not until the beginning of the 11th
century that this cheese became
blue-veined, although the exact circumstances of this innovation are not
known. In Lombardy they still make Panerone, a cheese
similar to Gorgonzola, but not a blue
cheese.
Gorgonzola
is served in small cubes with
apertitifs, included in mixed salads, spread on canapes or presented sauces for
forcemeats and to flavour gratins, souffles and flaky pastries. In Lombordy hot polenta may be served with a piece of melted
Gorgonzola in the middle. In the Trieste area a mixture of Gorgonzola,
mascarpone (a fresh creamy cheese), cream, anchovy, paste, cunin, chives and
sweet mustard is served as a dessert.
TOTTSCHAL, ALFRED Swiss doctor and
scholar born Geneva, 1873; died Paris, 1954). Founder of the medical gastronomy review Grandgousier (1934-48), he
also published Histoire de l’alimentation el de la gastronomie (1984)
in two volumes. This is a lively and well-documented study, which describes the way in which people have eaten and cooked from prehistory up to the 20th
century. He collaborated with Prosper
Montagne in the first edition of the Larousse Gastronomiaue. Published in 1938.
GOUDA A DOP Dutch cow’s-milk cheese
(30-405fat ) with a compressed paste. Firm to the touch, it is light yellow to
yellow ochre, depending on whether it
has matured for two or three months
waxed rind, tinged with yellow or colourless), has been semi oven dried (golden
rind) or oven dried (yellow rind). Its flavour can be mellow or
pronounced. Gouda owes its name to a
small Dutch port near Rotterdam, from which
it was originally exported. It is
made in flat rounds with a curved edge, 25-30 cm (10-12 in) in diameter and 7
cm (2 ¼ in ) high, weighing 3-5 kg (6 ½ - 11 lb.) in France and Belgium it is usually made in a rectangular block
(galantine) weighing 2-3 kg (4 ½ - 6 ½ lb.) ‘Genuine’, originating in the south
of Holland, is protected by a label. Limited all over the world, factory-made
Gouada is very similar to Edam both in taste and in the way it is used. The
rare farmhouse cheese has a good fruity tang to its flavour on when he saw his
skill in producing pieces moulees (decorative set pieces). Between 1840 and 1855 Gouffee ran a famous
restaurant in the Faubourg saint-Honore. Later. Althous Gouffe was
semi-retired, Emperor napoleon III
always called upon him to prepare banquets, and Alexandre Dumas and Baron
Brisse managed to persuade him to become
the head chef at the Jockey Club.
It was at this time that he
published various culinary works.
His
most important work, liuve de cuisine (2867), was republished several and
eventually revised and enlarged by prosper Montagne. His other works include le Livre de conservs
91869). Le Livre de pattsserie (1873) ad le livre des soupes et
des potages (1875).
His
name has been given to a dish consisting of small pieces of sautéed meat coated with a Madiera-flavoured
demi-glace sauce and garnished with potato nests filled with morels in cream
and buttered asparagus tips.
GOUGERE Savoury choux, usually in round
or ring shapes, flavoured with cheese (Groyere, Comte or Emmental). In Burgundy cold gougeres
traditionally accompany wine-tasting in cellars. Individual or large gourgeres
are also served warm as an entrée.
RECIPE
Gougeres
Make 500 g (18 oz) unsweetened choux
paste. After adding the eggs, blend in
100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) grated Gruyere cheese and a pinch of white pepper. Butter a
baking sheet and shape the dough into
smal balls using a spon or into a ring using a piping (pastry) bag.
Brush with beaten egg, sprinkle with
flakes of Gruyere and cook in the oven at 200°C (400°F, gas6 ) for about
20 minutes until golden brown. Leave to
cool in the oven with the heat switched
off and the door half-open.
Gougeres with celeriac, celery and cream
of caviar.
Fit a piping (pastry) bag with a large
fluted nozzle. Prepare 250 ml (8 fl. oz.
1 cup) gougere pastry. Pipe 4 rings 10 cm (4 in ) in diameter and bake in a
preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9).
Slice in half horizontally and cool on a wire rack.
Coarsely
chop some frisee; season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Cut celery and
celeriac (celery root) into matchsticks.
Mix the frisee, celery and celeraic with 200 ml (7 fl oz. 1 cup) whipped
whipping cream and 25 g g (1 oz. 1 generoustablespon) caviar, working very
gently with two forks in order not to damage the caviar.
Arrange
a circle of lamb’s lettuce on each plate and place the gougere, bases in the
middle. Spoon the cream mixture on the bases and cover with the gougere tops. Serve freshly filled, garnished with diced
tomato.
GOUJON Small strips of fish, typically
place or sole, coated and fried. The name is derived from gadgeon, a small
freshwater fish. The term is also used
to describe strips of poultry coated in breadcrumbs and fried.
GOULASH A Hungarian beef soup named after the keepers
of Magyar oxen (gulyas). The origin of
this dish, which is not made with onions and paprika and garnished with
potatoes, dates back to the 9th
century, before the foundation of the Hungarian state, when normadic tribes
prepared a meal that was in keeping with their way of life. At that time goulsh
consisted of chunks of meat stewed
slowly until the cooking liquid completely boiled away. The meat was dried in the sun and could be used later to
prepare a stew or a soup by boiling it in water.
Traditionally,
goulash is made in a special cauldron (bogracs). There are number of regional variants of the recipe
according to the cut of beef and the
cooking fat used (pork fat or lard), but purists agree that goulash should not
include flour or wine, not should soured (sour) cream b added just before serving,
Hungarians regards Vinnese Goulash as a flour-thickened version of
genuine goulsash soup; in Hungary the
latter is sometimes served with potatoes and csipetke (small quenelles of egg
pasta, poached in stock).
RECIPE
Hungarian goulash
Peel 250 g (9 oz) onions and slice them
into rings, cut 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb) braising steak (chuck beef) into pieces of about 75 g (3oz). Melt 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) lard in a casserole. When it is hot, put in the meat
and onions and brown them. Add 500
g (18 oz tomatoes, peeled, seeded and
cut into quarters, then I crushed garlic
clove, a bouquet garni, salt, pepper and finally 1 tablespoon mild Hungarian
paprika. Add enough stock to cover the
meat, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover cook very gently
for 2 hours, add 600 ml (1 pint, 2 ½ cups) boiling water and 800 g (1 ¾ lb)
potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters. Again bring to the boil and continue
boiling until the potatoes are cooked. Adjust the seasoning. Serve very hot.
GOUMI A wild berry that originated in
the Far East but is now grown in the United States. The gourmi has a fleshy red
or orange skin covered with silvery dots. When raw, its flesh is rather sour; it is therefore usually cooked and used
in compotes or as a filling for tarts.
COURD (SQUASH) The fruit of several
plants of the family Cucurbitaceae. Originating in tropical Asia and Africa,
they have a thick skin and watery flesh and were used as vegetables marrows,
cougettes (zucchini) and various squashes. Pumpkins are large, round fruits with yellow or red
skin and flesh. They are eaten in winter in soups, gratin dishes, purees,
souffles and pies. The couragette is a summer vegetable, but can now
be obtained all year round. Squash melons
have firm flesh and a flavour rater like an artichoke. The very small varieties can be pickled in
vinegar. Custard marrows are eaten mostly in the West Indies.
Winter and muscat squashes (the later do not keep well) are longer and wider, and tend to be more insipid
and watery than courgettes, but they can be cooked in the same way. Their seeds must always be removed.
Calabashes
and colocynths are grown as ornamentals because of their attractive colours, shapes and patterned skins.
RECIPES
Marrow au gratin
Peel a large marrow (summer squash) and
cut it into several medium-sized pieces.
Blanch them in salted water for 4-5 minutes,
drain and pat then dry. Place them in a
greased gratin dish on a layer of grated cheese. Pour some melted over the top and brown them
in a medium oven.
Marrow
au gratin may also be prepared with alternating layers of pieces of marrow and
sliced onion (softened in butter) or with rice cooked in meat stock.
Marrow flower fritters
Pick very fresh marrow summer squish)
flowers and was them only if really necessary. Pat them dry, dip them in alight
batter and deep-fry them in hot fat at
180³C
(350³F)
until golden brown. Drain the fritters, sprinkle with salt and serve very hot
as an hors d’oeurvre.
GOURD-MELON An oriental plant, the fruit
of which looks like a marrow (squash), taste something like a cucumber and is eaten as a
vegetable in South-east Asia and
China. It is cooked in water and
preserved in vinegar.
GROUMANDSAND GOURMENTS Synonymous until
the 18th century, these two words
later became clearly differentiated a groumand merely enjoy good food, whereas a gourmet knows how to choose and
appreciate it. In Caracteres, la Bruyere
described the gourmand as follows:
‘Above all, he has a discerning palate which is never deceived, and so he never
experiences the ghastly problem of
eating a had stew or drinking a mediocre wine.
In fact, there is a hierarchy that starts at the bottom with the goinfre (greedyguts), progress to the goulu
(glutton, then the gtrmand, the friand (epicure)
and the gourmet, and finally the gastronome.
GROUTER A light meal eaten in France
between lunch and dinner. Until the 18th century, gouter was eaten
at about 5 p.m. and constittuted a proper meal, generally cold, with cakes,
cheese, fruit and wine. With the change in mealtimes following the revolutions,
gouter was increasingly omitted as noted by Grimod de la Reyniere: ‘Now that
people dine at six o’clock, they hardly
ever have a guoter, except children.’ Indeed, nowadays the gouter or
quatre-beures is eaten only by chicken,
and consists of fruit juice, bread,
chocolate, biscuits (cookies) and milk.
Even
when it was a full meal, the gouter was
always considered common and unstylish. It was replaced by the English meal of afternoon
tea, with tea and cakes. But in the countryside, gouter alinatoire (high tea0 was tratitionaly served at the end of
the Afternoon, when work in the fields was over. It was so substantial that it took the place of dinner, a simple
snack of soup or milk and bread being served at night. In Spain, where mealtimes are later, 6 p.m. marks the middle, of the afternoon and is the time for the mirienda, which usually
consists of a cup of coffee or chocolate
and cakes 9dinner is eaten at about 10 p.m.
GOYERE a speciality of the north of France, particularly Valenciennes.
Its origin dates back to the Middle
Ages. It was originally a cheesecake made with cream cheese, eggs and
cassonade (or honey) flavoured with orange-flower water. Today it is a Maroilles cheese flan: a
mixture of matured and white Maroilles,
or of maroilles and drained cream or
curd cheese. It is eaten very hot, as a entiree with fairly strong beer or red wine. Some think that
goyere owes its name to a pastrytook called Gohier (hence the old
spelling gobiere). Others maintain that
the name is derived from the Old French goguer, meaning to enjoy
oneself.
RECIPE
Goyere
Make a short pastry with 250 g (9 oz., 2
cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, 1 egg, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter and a
generous pinch of salt. Roll it out to a thickness of 3 m (1/2 in), line a flan
(ple) dish with it and bake blind for
10-12 minutes. Leave to cool.
Remove the rind from half a Maroilles cheese, cut
the cheese into cubes, and rub through a
sieve with 200 g (7 oz., scant 1 cup) well-drained curd cheese. Add to this
mixture 3 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons crème fraiche and a pinch of salt.
Seasoned generously with pepper and mix well. Pour the filling into the flan case (pie shel), level the
surface and bake in a preheated oven at 220°(425°F,
gas 7) for 20 minutes. Take the goyere out of the oven and trace a diamond pattern on the top with
the tip of a sharp-pointed knife. Dot
with cubes of butter and put back in the oven for about 15 minutes. Serving piping hot.
GOZETTE A small pocket made of puff,
shortcrust or yeast pastry in which are placed slices of apple with cinnamon,
fried in butter and sprinkled with soft brown sugar. The gozette pastry is closed and glazed with
egg yolk, then baked.
GARDIN A tiered plinth, usually cut from
sandwich bread, used for the presentation of cold dishes 9such as
chanuds-froids), particularly for buffets.
In former times gardins were widely sued for the presentation of set
pieces of confectionery; they were
carved wooden stands, decorated with sugarwork (pastillage), almon
paste, sugar motifs and nought. Careme describes this decoration:
‘Let
us suppose, for example, that you wish to decorate a gradin with laurel
leaves. You first cut out a laurel wreath in paper. Next you give the
base of the gradin a light coasting of
icing and stick the paper wreath to
it. Now you cover the rest of the gradin with a medium grade of coarse
sugar. When this is done, you remove the
paper after which you sprinkle the imprint of the leaves with green pistchio
sugar. Now, you have a lauredl crown surrounding the base of the gradin.
‘For
a large set piece with three gradins, each one can be individually decorated. This creates a graceful and elegant effect.
I
have also sometimes embellished my gradins with laurel crowns made from biscuit pastry shaped like laurel leaves and
coloured green, or with garlands of spun sugar.
This last decoration has both
brilliance and elegance.
‘
have also created gradins out of almond paste, moulded in basket moulds.
But
although he favoured the presentation of set pieces on gradins, Careme
maintained that young practitioners should not forget ‘that gradins of German or Italian waffles, of
nougat, of glazed duchesse cakes, of puff pastry… of Genese cake or of corquembouch are immensely effective and
truly belong in the realm of the great pastry-making establishments.’
And,
in fact Careme was right all types of gradin mentioned above are edible,
whereas the other types, regardless of how decorative they might be, were mere pieces of wood..
GRAHAM, SYLVESTER, American nutritionist
(born West Suffield, Connecticut, 1894; died) Northamption, Massachuesettes,
1851). He became the leader of a crusade against the bad eating habits of
his compariots, denouncing excessively spicy condiments and ovenrindulgence in meat. for him, the cure-all was bran and it was essential to
make bread exclusively from wholemeal (whole-wheat) four under his trademark
have to be made with flour, containing all the original bran. Graham bread,
marketed in the United States and in
Europe since the mid-19th century, was the first internationally
consumed bread. It is a wholemeal bread with a very dense
texture and it keeps extremely
well. Graham crackers, still one of the
most popular American biscuits
(cookies), are made with wholemeal flour and are named after Sylvester Graham.
GRAINER The French word grainer applies
to cooked sugar tending to crystallize and turn cloudy or to a fondant mixture
that has been overheated. The world also described whisked egg whites lacking
cohesion and the property of holding air. Instead of becoming, thick and foamy,
the egg whites form a multitude of small particles when beating stops. This
defect is often due to greasy equipment. It may be possible to correct
this by adding 2-3 drops of vinegar just as the egg whites are beginning to
form small bubbles before rising.
GRMMONT A style of serving shellfish
cold, usually reserved for lobster and crayfish. The shellfish are first cooked
in court-bouillon, then cooked. The
flesh of the tail is made into escalopes (scallops), garnished with slices of truffle
and glazed with jelly. The shell is filled with a mouse made from the flesh of
the claws and the coral. The escalopes
are place on top, alternating with poached, glazed oysters. The dish is decorated with lettuce hearts and
parsley.
The
words is also used for a classic preparation of
poached chicken, from which the breasts and breasts bone are removed.
The cavity is filed with lark fillets, musrhooms tops, and cockscombs and
kidneys, bound together with a bechamel
sauce flavoured with truffle oil, on which the breast filelts, cut into thin
strips, are laid. The dish is then
covered with sauce supreme, spirnkled with Pamesan cheese and browned in the ownen.
GRAMOLATE Also known as gramolata. A
type of sorbet made from a granita mixture . it is served between main courses
of as a refreshment during an evening
party. It should not be confused with
gremolata, a condiment in Italian cookery, which is made of a mixture of orange and lemon rind
(zest), chopped parsley and garlic and is used in ragouts and, mot often, in
osso bucco.
GRANA PADANO Cooked pressed AOC Italian
cheese made from partly skimmed cow’s milk (32% fat), with a natural crust
coated with oil. It is a lightly convex cylinder weighing 24-40 kg (53-88 lb.).
known since the 12th century, it has a very hard, granular texture,
and a smoky, slightly rancid taste. In cooking it is often used grated.
GRANCHER, MARCEL ETIENNE Gastronomic writer and chronicker (born
Lons-le-Saunier, 1897); died Le Cannet,
1976). He settled in Lyn and founded
the Academie Rabelais and the Academe
Rabelais and the Academie des Gastronomes Lyonnais. In 1937, together with Curnonsky, he published a work called Lyn,
capitale de la gastronomie. He also wrote a number of novels in which food plays an important part,
such as Le Charcutier de Machouvlle (1942), and was a connoisseur of wines,
which he describes in De vins d’lleure IV a ceux de Brillat-Savarin
(1952). In Cinquante Ans a table (1953),
he describe the achivement of perfection in gastronomy, after centuries of
cookery, in the following terms: ‘We did
not immediately come up with bearnaise, Bercy and poivrade sauces. It took more than a single
attempt to discover reduced cream, marinade and forcemeat. We did not straightway invent barding fat, the touch of garlic, and the
thin slice of truffle under the skin….
While genius is spontaneous, its
manifestations nevertheless require the
passage of time before glorious
perfection is achieved, this is particularly true in the area of food and drink..
Magical dishes, magical words : a great
cook is, when all is said and done, a great poet… for was it not a visit
from the
Muses that inspired the person who first had the idea of marrying recipe
and chicken, grape and thrush, potatoes and entrecote, Parmesan and pasta,
aubergine (eggplant) and tomato’s, Chambertin and cocked, liqueur brandy and
wood cook onion and tripe?
GRAND-DUC The name given to various
dishes created in the Parisian
restaurants frequented by the Russian
aristocracy during the second Empire and at the turn of the 20th
century. These dishes contain asparagus tips and truffles. Poached
fillets of sole covered with Mornay sauce, arranged in a ring around asparagus
tips and crayfish tails and garnished with thin slices of truffle,; soft0boiled
(soft-cooked) or poached eggs covered with Monray sauce, browned, garnished
with a slice of truffle, placed on a bed of fried croutons or puff-pastry
croustades and surrounded by asparagus tips in butter; sautéed meat served with the cooking liquid mixed
with Madeira an dperigourdine sauce, topped
with thin slices of truffl an dsurrounded with bundles of asparagus tips. Stuffed turkey grand-duc is a very elaborate recipe created in 1906 by M.
Valmy-Joyeuse, while he was a change of kitchens of the Marquise de Mazenda.
RECIPE
Stuffed turkey grand-duc
Slit open a turkey along the pack and
stuff with the following mixture: 500 g ml (18 oz0 chicken rubbed through a
fine sieve, 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) double (heavy) cream, 250 g (9 oz) foie gras
poached in port wine and rubbed through
a sieve. Mix all these ingredients throughly and season. Add 12 truffles, peeled and cooked for 10
minutes in a little liqueur brandy, and 24 chicken hearts with the blood
vessels removed, which have been soaked
in water, steeped in white Malaga wine,
drained, dried in a cloth, stuffed with a puree of York ham and poached
for 15 minutes in truffle essence.
Carefully
reshape the stuffed turkey. Cover with
slices of raw ham or bacon, and enclose in a large layer of lining pastry, taking care to keep the
shape of the bird as far as possible. Bake
in a preheated oven at 180°C
(250°F,
gas 4) for 2 ½ hours. During cooking,
cover the turkey with greaseproof (wax) paper folded into four, so that it will
cook all through without browning the
pastry too soon. Serve the turkey
freshly cooked, with a demi-glace sauce flavoured with truffle essence.
GRAND MARINIER A liqueur evolved by the Mariner-Lapostolle
family firm in 1880. It is based on oranges, and there are two types. Cordon rouge includes Cognac,
cordon jaune is slightly lower in
strength. Grandi mariner is often
used in sweet dishes, such as souffles or with crepes or in whipped cream.
GRAND-MERE Describing dishes similar to
those called bone femme or en cocotte.
The term is applied particularly to a chicken casserole served with
pieces of fired bacon, small brown-glazed onions, sautéed mushrooms and fried
new potatoes. The same garnish can accompany fried entrecote (sirloin) or rump steak.
RECIPE
Entrecote grand-mere
Prepare 12 small glazed onions, 12
blanched mushroom caps and 50 g (2 oz. 1/3 cup) diced blanched salt pork or bacon. Sauté
the steak in butter, browning both sides, then add the vegetables
and bacon to the pan and cook all
together. Meanwhile, prepare and fry some small new potatoes until
browned. Arrange the steak on the
serving dish surrounded by the garnishes and keep hot. Dilute the pan juices with a little stock,
bring to the boil and pour over the steak. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and served with the potatoes.
GRABD VEFOUR A Parisian restaurant
situated in the Galerie de Beaujolais in
the Palais-Royal. Founded by Aubertot in 1784 and initially called the Café de Charttres, it was first taken over by
charrier, who served English breakfasts and whose scallops with mushrooms were
famous, and then (in 1820) by Jean Vedour. Bonapatte, Brillat-Savarin, Murat,
Grimod de la Reyniere, Lamartine, Thiers and
Sainte-Beuve frequented this well-poultry mayonnaise. Other propritors succeeded Jean Vefour, but the restaurant kept his name. When, under
the Second Empire, one of the Vefour’s
brothers opened his own restaurant in
the Palais-Royal, a distinction was made
between the Grand Vefour and the Petis Vefour (which closed in 1920). At the
end of the 19th century
the Vefour ran into difficulties, but
after World War Ii Louis Vaudable (whose restaurant, Maxim’s, closed) took it
over and in 948 went into partnership with a young chef, Raymond Oliver, who
became the maitre of the restaurant two years later. Jean Cocteau and Colette,
to whom several recipes are dedicated, frequented the restaurant and helped to
establish its excellent reputations; its
18th-century décor has remained intact.
GRAND VENEUR A term used to describe dishes of ground game, roasted or sautéed , covered
with grand veneur sauce (also called
venison sauce). This is poivrade sauce
(sometimes made with the blood of the
animal) with redurrant jelly and cream added.
Grand veneur dishes are usually accompanied chestnut puree.
RECIPES
Grand veneur sauce
Prepare a poivrade sauce using the
trimmings of a piece of cooked venison, and boil it down to obtain at least 200
ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup). Strain, then blend it with 1 tablespoon reducrrant jelly
and 2 tablespoons cream. Whisk, if the sauce is to accompany hare, mix 1
tablespoon hares’ blood with 2 tablespoons strained marinade and add this
mixture to the reduced and strained sauce.
Saddle of roebuck grand veneur
Trim the saddle, then lard it with
strips of bacon that have been marinated in Cognac with chopped parsley, salt,
pepper and a little oil, Roast it and arrange on a serving dish surrounded by
braised chestnuts or chestnut puree and dauphine potatoes. Serve with a grand veneur sauce.
GRANITA A type of Italian sorbet
popularized by Tortoni in Paris in the 19h century. It is a half-frozen preparation with a granular texture’s (bhence its name),
made of a lightly sweetened syrup or a oil a syrup falvoured with coffee or
liqueur. Unlike sorbet, granita does not contain any Italian meringue.
It
is served in sundae dishes or a glass bowl, either between courses or as a
refreshment.
RECIPE
Granita
Make
a light syrup with fruit juice (such as lemon, orange, tangerine,
passion fruit or mango) or very strong coffee.
Cool the syrup, then pour it into an
ice tray and freeze for 3-4 hours, without stirring. The granita will then have a granular texture.
GRAP2.
The fruit of the vine, which grows in
bunched on a stalk. The skin,
which may be green, yellow or purple, encloses a sweet pulp with one to four seeds . both white and black varieties
are used to make wine. There are also
varieties cultivated as desert grapes, which are served as fresh fruit or used in cooking, and other varieties are
dried to produce raisins, stultanas (golden raisins) and currants .
It
is known that in the stone Age wild vines were already established in the
Caucasus where they originated, as well
as in the Mediterranean region. Very early on people discovered how to
make a fermented drink from grapes. The
cults of Osiris and Dionysus, as well as the biblical story of Noah, evidence
of the antiquity of the cultivation of varies and the manufacture of wine.
After the Greeks and Romans, who learned
the technique of drying grapes, came the Gauls, inventors of the cask. The Gauls made great progress in the cultivation
of vines, while later still monks throughout Europe became progressively more adept in the art of
winemaking. Throughout this period, fresh and dried grapes were always available.
Grape
juice, valued for its invigorating and purifying properities, gave rise to the
cult of the ‘grape cure’ in France. A grape cure centre (called the Uvarium)
was opened in Moissac in 1927; I 1930 a
grape centre was set up at the Saint-Lazre station in Paris and sold the juice of 5 tonnes of
grapes daily. The development of bottled
fruit juices led to the disappearance of
these public outlets, but in Aviagnon, Beziers and Narbonne freshly pressed
grape juice is still sold curing the grape harvest.
When
buying dessert grapes, choose fruit that is clean ripe, firm and not too
closely packed on the stalk, which
should be firm and crisp. The grapes
should be of equal size uniformly coloured and with the bloom still on.
Ripe grapes do not keep well; they can,
however, be stored for a few days in
the centre of a refrigerator, wrapped in
a perforated paper bag. They should be
taken out an hour before they are required.
before
they are eaten, grapes should be
carefully washed in water that has been slightly acidulated with lemon juice or
vinegar. If served as a desert, they can be arranged in a basket or dish, alone
or with other seasonal fruits, together
with a special pair of scissors designed
for cutting off small bunches
from the main stalk.
Grapes
are also used in patisserie and other forms
of cookery. Sole Veronique,
created by Auguste Escoffer in 1903 and named after a comic opera, combines
grapes with sole. Chicken is often
served with grapes in a similar dish.
Grapes are served with veal and duck livers, roast quails and thrushes
and boudin blanc. They are used in fruit salads, tarts and flans, jams (including raisine) and sweet
rice dishes. Grapessed oil, a table oil,
is extracted from the seeds.
RECIPES duck foie gras with grapes
Skin and seed 8 large white Muscat
grapes for each slice of foie gras.
Slice the foie gras fairy
thickly, season the slices with salt and
pepper and sauté them rapidly in
butter. Drain and keep hot. Deglaze
the pan with a small glass of
Sauternes, Monbazillac or a liqueur wine and half thickened veal stock), then
add the grapes and shake then bout in the pan. adjust the seasoning. Pour the sauce and the grapes on to the foie
grass and serve very hot.
Grape jam
Pick the grapes off the stalk, removing any bad ones, and seed them the
grapes are large. Weigh the fruit. Weigh
out 500 g (18 oz. 2 ¼ cups) granulated sugar for every 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) grapes.
Put the sugar into a pan with 120 ml (4 ½ fl oz. ½ cup) water per 1 kg (2 ¼
lb.) grapes and dissolve it over a low
heat. Bring to the boil and boil for 4 minutes, then add the grapes and a split
vanilla pod (bean). Bring back to the boil and skim the pan. cook for 10 minutes over a medium heat, then
15 minutes over a low heat. Take out the grapes with a slotted spoon and put them to one side. Boil the
syrup to a temperature of 107°C
(225°F).
see sugar, then replace the grapes and bring the pan back to the boil.
Take off the stove and pot in the
usual way.
Grape tart
Make a tart pastry with 250 g (9 oz. 2 ¼
cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, a generous pinch of salt, 100 g (4 oz., 1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 1
egg yolk, ½ glass water and 125 g (4 ½ oz., ½ cup) softened butter.
Roll the dough into a ball and chill it for 1 hour. Wash and seed 500 g
(18 oz) white grapes
In
a bowl mix 3 eggs with 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine sugar and 250 ml
(8fl oz. 1 cup) single (light) cream.
Beat the mixture with a whisk and while whisking gradually add 250 ml (8
fl oz 1 cup) milk them 6 tablespoons kirsch.
Roll
cut the dough and use it to line a 24 cm (9 ½ in) tart tin (pan). prick the bottom with a fork, spread the
grapes over the tin and bake in a preheated oven at 200°C
(400°F,
gas 6 ) for 10 minutes. Pour the cream
into the tart and continue to cook for 25-30 minutes (cover the tin with foil
if the cram brown too fast). Leave the
tart to get cold, then unmould it on to a serving dish and sprinkle with icing (confectioner’s sugar.
Muscat grape turtles
Make apate sablee (see short pastry),
roll it out very thinly, cut out 4 circles 18 cm *7 in) in diameter and use them to line 4 tartlets tins
(pans). Prick the bottom of each lined
tin, leave to rest, then bake blind for 15 minutes.
Mix
together 250 mil (8 fl. oz. 1 cup) black Muscat grape juice, 150 ml ( ¼ pint, 2/3 cup) single (light0 cream 100 g (4
oz. ½ cup) melted butter, 2 egg yolks, 2 whole eggs and 2 tablespoons sugar.
Fill the tarts with this mixture and
bake in a preheated oven at 180°C
(350°F,
gas 4 ) for 20 minutes.
GRAPEFRUIT A large round citrus fruit,
11-17 cm (4 ½ - 7 in) in diameter, the most common varieties of which have a yellow skin and a refreshing,
slightly acid-tasting pulp. There are also pink varieties, which have a pinkish-red tinge to the skin
and pink flesh that is much sweeter. The grape fruit tree probably of the
world’s crop is now grown in the
southern United States.
The
grapefruit is popular as a breakfast
food, usually cut in two, each segment being detached from the skin with a special serrated knife with a
curved point designed to loosen the segments. It is eaten either lain and
fresh, or quickly grilled (broiled) after being brushed with melted butter
and/or sprinkled with sugar. Grapefruit
is also an ingredient in cocktails and salads, and it goes well with some rich savoury poultry and meat dishes.
As
a dessert, grapefruit can be used in ices, fruit salads, cakes and various
sweet courses, in the same way as the orange.
The
fruit is also used to make marmalade, and the
juice is wildly consumed as a drink.
RECIPES
Grapefuit ices
Cut the tops off some graphefruit,
hollow them out with a special grapfruit knife without piercing the rind and separate the segments,
press the segments (or put them through a blender, then strain) to obtain the juice and use this to prepare a grapefruit ice in the
same way as an orange ice. Put the
grapefruit skins in the freezer.
When the ice has just started to freeze, fill the grapefruits and return to the freezer until the ice has frozen , transfer to the refrigerator 40 minutes before serving.
Grapefruit salad
Mix grapefruit segments with fine slices of apple sprinkled with lemon juice, chopped celery
and a few shredded lettuce leaves. Dress
with a little yourt or al ight oil-based
dressing.
GRAPA A mare brandy made in Italy from
the residue of grapes left after
pressing. It should ideally be matured so that the harsh initial taste is
refined. Grappa is made in a various regions and may be used for certain
dishes, such as the Piedmontese specialty braised kid.
GRATER A flat, convex or cylindrical
utensil with the surface perforated with holes of different sizes and shapes,
some of them toothed. A solid substance is rubbed over the holes repeatedly to
reduce it to course or fine threads
(cheese, carrots, celery) or to powder or very fine fragments (coconut, nutmeg,
rind of citrus, Parmesan cheese). A
nutmeg grater is the smallest, bring 3 cm. (1 ¼
in) long white a cheese or vegetables grater may be 20 cm (8 in)
long. Some graters are in the form of mechanical in which
the interchangeable drums provide the gratinng
surface. Food processors are equipped with grating accessories large
quantities.
GRATIN The golden crust that forms on
the surface of a dish when it is browned in the oven or put under the grill
(broiler). Usually the top of the dish has been coated with grated cheese,
breadcrumbs or egg and breadcrumbs.
Formerly, ‘gratin’ was the crust
adhering to the cooking receptacle, which was
scraped off (gratte in French) and eaten as a titbit.
The
term has been extended to denote a method of cooking fish, meat, vegetables,
pasta dishes and even sweets. The
preparation is cooked or reheated in oven so that a protective layer forms on
the surface, improving the taste of the
food and preventing it from drying up. This layer consists of strongly
flavoured grated cheese (such as Gruyere or Pamesan) or breadcrumbs, sprinkled
with melted butter. The length of cooking time depends on whether the
dish is to be cooked from scratch or merely reheated or browned. In all cases a number of rules apply us dishes that the flume proof and can be
transferred directly to the table; butter them generously sot that the
preparation does not stick; if the dish is to be browned under the grill, it
must already be very hot; for a gratin
that is to be fully cooked, the dish must be set on a metal tray separating it
from the oven shelf or placed in a bain mrie.
Gratins
are served straight from the dish they are
cooked in. they are frequently made using minced (ground) leftover meat, pasta and poultry,
but the method can also be applied to
more elaborate preparations (lobster thermidor, scallops a la parisienne, sole
au gratin, calve’s sweetbreads au gratin, crayfish).
RECIPES
Gratin dauphinois
Peel and thinly slice 1 kg 92 ¼ lb) potatoes and arrange them evenly in a
generously buttered dish. Mix 2 whole eggs with a little milk, add 1 teaspoon
salt, then whisk together with 600 ml (1
pint, 2 ½ cups (warmed milk or cream. Pour this mixture over the potatoes and
dot with knobs of butter. Cook in a preheated oven at 220°C
(425°F,
gas 7) for about 50 minutes, if
necessary protecting the top of the dish with foil towards the ends of the
cooking period.
The
bottom of the dish can be rubbed with garlic, and a little grated nutmeg may be added at the same time as the salt. Grated Gruyere may also be added: one layer on the bottom of the dish
and another on the top.
Gratin languedocien
Half-cook in oil 4 peeled and sliced aubergines (eggplants),
seasoned with salt and pepper, and 12
halved, seasoned tomatoes. Arrange them in
alternate layers in a flameproof dish. Cover with a mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped garlic and
parsley. Sprinkle with olive oil. Begin
cooking on the top of the stove, then bake slowly in preheated oven at 180°C
(350°F,
gas 4) until the top is well browned.
Gratin of beetroot in verjuice
Slice 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) raw beetroot (beets)
and cut into sticks. Cook in a white stock and drain without cooling. Gently
heat 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) single
(light) cream without boiling, whisking all the time. Remove from the heat. Mix together half a
glass of verjuice obtained by pressing a large bunch of sour white grapes, 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoons
chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Gradually add this mixture to the cream. Arrange the vegetables in a
baking dish and cover with the sauce.
Sprinkle with grated Cantal
cheese, add very small knobs of butter and cook
au grafin by placing the dish in a very
hot even for a few minutes until the top is browned.
Gratin of sardine filelts with lemon
juice
Wash 800 g (1 ¾ lb) sardines and wipe them dry with paper
towels. Remove the fillets with a kitchen knife and place the fish in buttered
roasting tin (pan), skin side down. Put the rind (zest) of 1 lemon and 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) crème fraiche
in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper and the juice of 2 lemons. Stir and pour over the sardines.
Cook in a preheated oven at 240°C
(475°F,
gas 9) for 7-10 minutes. Serve with toasted bread.
Gratin savoyard of frog’s legs
Allow ½ pairs of frog’s legs per person.
Trim them, season with salt and pepper,
dip in milk and then lightly flour, fry
in butter with shallots and a little
chopped garlic, then drain and arrange
them in a fairly large baking dish. Dilute the pan juices with mandement
wine (from the Cote de Mandement on the right bank of the Rhone, in the canton
of Geneva) or with a fruity white wine; reduce and pour over the frog’s
legs. Sprinkle with chopped chives and
parsley, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over them. Mix together 250 ml (8 fl. oz . 1 cup) double (heavy) cream, 75g (3 oz.
¾ cup) grated Gruyere cheese and 2 egg
yolks Season with salt and pepper and pour over the frogs’ legs. Brown under
the grill (broiler) and serve garnish with a few fluted slices of lemon.
Macaroni gratin
Bring 2.5 litres (4 ¼ cups) macaroni and cook for 5 minutes,
stirring with a wooden spoon sot ht the macaroni do not stick.
Remove from the water, drain and
hold under cold running water to cool them.
Place them in a bowl and cover with milk. Cove and place in the
refrigerator for ½ hours. The following day, take out the macaroni. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well, pour
into a gratin dish and smooth the top with ah wooden spatula. Sprinkle with 75g (3 oz ¾ cup) grated gruyere cheese and dot 25 g (1
oz. 2 tablespoons) butter, cut into
small pieces, across the top. Bake in a
preheated oven at 180°C
(350°F,
gas 54) for 10 minutes, then place under a medium hot grill (broiler) for 1
minute. Serve very hot.
Polenta gratin
Dice 2 boneless chicken breasts. Chop 2 onions and 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) olives very finely.
Season and 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) olives ver finely. Season with salt, pepper and chopped fresh
coriander (cilantro) and fry until
golden. Remove from the eat. Now brown 2
chopped onions and 2 tomatoes, peeled ,
seeded and crushed, and 250 g (9 oz, 1 ¾
cups) polenta (cornmeal) in the
olive oil. In a roasting tin (pan), put a layer of chicken, then a layer of
polenta. Continue this layering price.
Arrange the vegetables in a baking dish and cover with the sauce.
Sprinkle with grated cantal cheese, add
very small knobs of butter and cook au gratin by placing the dish in a very hot
oven for a few minutes until the top is
browned.
Gratin of sardine fillets with lemon
juice
Wash 800 g ( 1 ¼ lb ) sardines and wipe them dry with paper
towels. Remove the fillets with a
kitchen knife and place the fish in a buttered roasting tin (pan), skin side
down. Put the rind (zest) of 1 lemon and
100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) crème fraiche in
a bowl.
Season with salt and pepper and add the juice of 2 lemons. Stir and pour over the sardines.
Cook in a preheated oven at 240°C
(475°¼
, gas 9) for 7-10 minutes, serve with toasted bread.
Gratin savoyard of frog’s legs
Allow 12 pairs of frogs’ legs per person. Trim them, season with salt
and pepper, dip in milk and then lightly four. Fry in butter with shallots
and a little chopped garlic, then drain and
arranged them in a fairly large
baking dish. Dilute the pan juices with
Mandement wine (from the Cote de Mandement on the right bank of the Rhone, in
the canton of Geneva) or with a fruity white wine; reduce and pour over the frog’s legs. Sprinkle with chopped chives and parsley, then squeeze the juice of
a lemon over them. Mix together 250 ml
(8 fl. oz. 1 cup) double (heavey) cream, 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup) grated Gryere cheese and 2 egg yolks. Season with salt and pepper and pour over the
frogs’ legs. Brown under the grill
(broiler) and serve garnished with a few fluted slices of lemon.
Macaroni gratin
Bring 2.5 litres (4½ pints. 11 cups) salted water to the boil.
Add 300 g (11 oz. 2 ¾ cups)
macaroni and cook for 5 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon so that the
macaroni do not stick. Remove from the water, drain and hold under cold running water to cool them. Place
them in a bowl and cover with milk.
Cover and place in the refrigerator for 12 hours. The following day, take out the macaroni. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well, pour into a
gratin dish and smooth the top with a
wooden spatula. Sprinkle with 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup)
grated Gruyere cheese and dot 25 g 91 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter, cut into
small pieces, across the top. Bake in a
preheated oven at 180°C
(350¼ , gas 4 ) for 10 minutes, then place under a medium hot grill (broiler)
for 1 minute. Service very hot
Polenta gratin
Dice 2 boneless chicken breasts. Chop 2 onions and 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) olives very finely. Season with salt,
pepper and chopped fresh coriander
(cilantro) and fry until golden. Remove
from the heat. Now brown 2
chopped onions and 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and crushed, and 250 g (9 oz. 1
¾ cups) polenta (cornmeal) in the olive oil. In a roasting tin (pan),
put a layer of chicken, taken a layer of polenta. Continue this layering process until al the
ingredients have been used up. Gratine in a preheated oven at 240°C
(475°¼
, gas 9) for 5 minutes and serve very hot.
GRANTEE Onion soup poured into a tureen
or individual casseroles made of ovenproof
porcelain, topped with dried
bread and grated cheese and cooked au
gratin in a very hot oven. Gratinee is
a Parisian specialty, traditionally
served for late supper in the bistros of
Montmartre and the district around the Halles.
In
general, the cheese used is Gruyere, Comte or Emmertal, but gratinee can also
be made with cantal or Bleu d’ Auvergne
RECIPES
Gratince
Peel and finely slice 4 large onions.
Heat 40 g ( 1½ oz. 3 tablespoons) butter
and 4 tablespoons of in a shallow frying pan.
add the onion and stir with a
wooden spatula until they are golden brown.. sprinkle with 25 g (1 oz, ¼ cup) flour and stir until brown. Add 200 ml (7 fl. z. ¾ cup) dry white wine, reduce for a few minutes over a gentle heat,
the pour in 1 litre (1¾ cups) water or
stock. Season with salt pepper, add 2 small crushed cloves of garlic and a bouquet garni, then
bring to the boil and cook very gently for 1 hour.
Meanwhile,
in the oven dry some slices of bread cut from a long, thin French loaf. Mix 3 egg yolks with 6 tablespoons Madiera or port . preheat the
oven to 220 °(425°¼
, gas 7 ) and put a bain marie into it.
When the onion soup is cooked remove the
bouquet garni, gradually add the mixture of egg yolks and Madeira, then divide
the soup among 4 individual open proof soup bowls. Generously sprinkle the dried slices of bread
with Gruyere and arrange on the surface
of the soup. place the soup bowls in the
bain marie in the oven and cook until the top of the bread is well
browned. Serve immediately.
Gratinee de poires aux pistaches
Bring to the boil 1 litre ( 1 ¾ pints, 4 ½ cups) water with 1 vanilla pod
(bean) cut into two, 200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and 2
tablespoons lemon juice. Peel and core 6 ripe but firm pearls. Poach gently.
Allow to cool. Make a crème potasiere
(confectioner’s custard) with 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) milk, I vanilla pod cut
in two, 20 g (¾ oz. 2½ tablespoons) plain (all-purpose) flour., 3
egg yolks and 70 g ) 2¾ oz. 5 tablespoons) sugar. Place in a bowl, add 1 tablespoon pear brandy and
when it is almost cold, 3 tablespoons
whipped cream. Beat 1 egg yolk with 25 g (1 oz.
2 tablespoons) sugar until the
mixture foams and turns a paler yellow. Incorporate 1 tablespoon pistachio nuts
and 2 tablespoons whipped cream. Drain the
pears and cut them in the shape of a fan but still attached. Cut 1 vanilla pod into matchsticks.
Put some crème pastisiere on to
each plate and place a pear in the
middle. Sprinkle icing (confectioner’s) sugar on the pears without going
over the edge. Place the plates under the grill ( broiler) to brown the fruit. Pour some pistachio cream evenly
around the pears and draw marbling patterns with the point of a knife. Now sprinkle the edge of the plate with icing
sugar and chopped pistachio nuts. Place a
spoonful of ice cream next to each pear.
Decorate with vanilla matchsticks and serve immediately.
GRATE PAILLE A rich COW’S-milk cheese
(70% fat) made with both pasteurized and
aunpasteurized milk in the He-de France. Produced in brick shapes about 8 cm (3 in) high, the cheese ah a beige
molted rind and an oily texture. The flavour is very rich and creamy.
GRATTONS Also known as gratterons. The
name given in certain regions of France
to the residue of melted pork or goose
fat containing small pierces of meat, which is eaten cold as an hors d’oeuvre
also friton.) Grattons from Auvergne are strips of pork neck and fatty meat
cooked together, them pounded or minced (ground) and pressed in a mould. Lyonnais grattons are formed into rissoles
and not moulded. Bordaux grattons combine melted pork fat and lean pork. In Odeurs de
foret et Flumets de table, charles Forot gives the recipe for vivarais grattons. The
pork fat, cut into small pieces, is melted for 5-6 hours over a very low
heat. When it has completely melted, it is put into jars. Salt, pepper, spices,
chopped pursley and a pinch of grated
garlic added to the remains of meat left on the
bottom of the pan. this mixture is stirred for a long time so as to mix
together the ingredients and flavours, then it is put in a stone jar.
Goose
grattons are obtained during the preparation of confit, by draining the residue
of goose fat and the tiny fragments of flesh while they
are still hot. They are them pressed, sprinkled with fine salt and eaten cold.
Grattons
can also be pieces of fatty pork cooked until crisp (craclings).
GRAVES Red and white AOC Bordeux wines
from the gravelly vineyards mostly to the south of the city of Bordeaux, along the left bank of
the River Garonne and down into the
landes. The area was often
considered as two regions the northern
part, particularly famous for red wines, and the southern region, abutting and
enclosing the Sauternais. In 1987, however, an area of the Graves region, which
included a number of the famous properties and the southern parts of Bordeaux,
was formed into a new appellation.
Pessac Leognan. The graves region, which was named after the type of
ground (gravel and sand), is possibly the oldest part of the Bordeaux vineyard
to have been planted.
The
red wines are made from the same grapes
as other red wines of the Bordeaux area: Cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet
Franc and Merlot.
The
white wines of the Graves, more numerous
than the reds, are made from the same grapes as Sauternes -- Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and
Muscadelle -- and they are basically of
two types the truly dry wines and Graves Superior, which are sweet wines. They dry whites are excellent accomplishments
to fish.
GRAVES DE VAYRES Red and white AOC wines
from the left bank of the Dordogne, in the Entre-Deux-Mers region, the
whites being dry, the reds lighter in style. They should not be confused with the wines coming from the Graves region itself.
GRAVLAS Also known as gravad lax. This
classic Scandinavian dish of salmon pickled with salt, sugar and dill,
originates from an ancient methods of preserving fish by burying it. Over a period of few days the fish would ferment and become slightly sour, but when
buried for weeks or months it would begin to decay.
Gravlax
is prepared by filleting the fish and laying one fillet, skin side down, in a
dish, then topping it with a pickle mixture of sugar, pepper and dill before
covering with the second fillet. The fish is weighted down and allowed to
pickle for 4-10 days in the refrigerator.
Every day the fish is turned
and basted with the pickle liquid (which
develops as the sugar and salt draw out
the juices in the salmon and dissolve).
The pickle mixture is scraped off
before serving.
Gravlax
may be served thinly or thickly sliced, usually with a slightly sweetened sauce
of mustard and dill.
GRAVY Cooking juice, usually from meat
extended with stock or other liquid and thickened with a roux or another starch. The excess fat is removed and
a small amount retained to make a roux
before liquid is added. Alternatively,
the pan can be deglazed with wine or other alcohol, or little stock, then more liquid may be added and boiled until reduced
to a slightly syrup consistency. Gravy may also be thin, but full-flavoured.
GRAYING ombre A freshwater fish similar
and related to the trout: it is distinguished by its small mouth and its
dorsal fin. Weighing about 1.12 kg. (2½ lb) and 4-50 cm (16-20 in ) long, it
has a good flavour and its cooked in the
same way as trout. It will not travel or
keep, however, and must be cooked and eaten without delay.
GREASING The process of coating a baking
sheet, cake in (pan) or mould with cooking fat to prevent the preparation from
sticking to the container during cooking to enable it to be removed easily.
GRECQUE, A LA Describing dishes of
Greek origin but more loosely used for
dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. Vegetables a la grecque are cooked a
marinade flavoured with the live oil and
lemon and served cold, either as an hors d’oeuvre or an entrée. Pilaf a la grecaque consists of rice mixed
with sausage, peas and cubes of pepper. Fish a la grecque is coated with a
while wine sauce flavoured with celery,
fennel and coriander seeds.
RECIPES
Marinated fish a la grecque
Gently cook 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) finely
chopped onions in 150 ml (¼ pint
2/3 cup) olive oil without browning
them. Add 150 ml (1/4 pint. 2/3 cup)
white wine, 150 ml ¼ pint. 2/3 cup)
water and the strained juice of a lemon.
Add 2 finely shredded (bell) peppers, I crushed garlic clove and a
bouquet garin (consisting of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay leaf and a sprig of fresh fernnel). Season
with salt and pepper boil for 15 minutes. Pour piping hot over the selected
fish, allow to cool and keep in the
refrigerator. This quantity of sauce is sufficient for 500 g (18
oz.)fish. Suitable fish include sardines and red mullet.
Sauce a la grecque for fish
Heat a finely sliced quarter of a celery
heart and 3 finely sliced onions in 3
tablespoons olive oil. Add a bouquet
garni (including a sprig of fennel), 6 tablespoons white wine and 12 coriander
seeds. Boiling down by two-thirds and
add 6 tablespoons thin veloute sauce and the same quantity of single (light) cream.
Boil down by one-third. Blend in 50 g (2 oz., ½ cup) butter and strain before serving.
The
veloute sauce may be replaced by an equal volume of strained fish furnet and 1
tablespoons beurre manie, added in small knobs to the boiling liquid, which is
whisked for 1-2 minutes.
Stuffed tomatoes a la grecque
Soak 125 g (4½ oz, scant 1 cup) sultanas
(golden raisins) in a little tepid water until they swell, then drain. Heat 4 tablespoon olive oil in a
saucepan and add 200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) rice; stir until the grains became
transparent. Then add to the rice twice
its volume of boiling water, a pinch of
powdered saffron, I teaspoon salt, pepper,
a pinch of cayenne and a bouquet garni.
Bring to the boil and simmer gently until the rice is cooked.
Slice off the tops of 6 large tomatoes, remove the seeds and pulp
and lightly season the insides with
salt. Place the tomatoes upside down in a colander to drain. When the rice is cooked, drain and cool, add
the sultanas and adjust the
seasoning. Dry the tomato cases, put I teaspoon oil in the bottom of
each and fill them with the mixture of
rice and sultanas. Replace the tops. Arrange the stuffed tomatoes fairly close together in
a baking dish. Pour a little oil in the
bottom of the dish and cook in a preheated oven at 240°C
(475°
¼, gas 9). Remove the tomatoes from the
oven before they become too soft and serve immediately.
Vegetables a la grecque
Choose very fresh tender vegetables,
such as aubergnes (eggplants), cardoons, mushrooms, cauliflower, courgettes
(zucchini(. Fennel, artichoke hearts and
small onions. Small onions may be left
whole, but the other vegetables should
be washed thoroughly and cut into fairly
small pieces so that they can be cooked properly. They should be sprinkled with lemon juice if there s a risk
of discoloration. Make a court-bouillon by boiling 6 tablespoons olive oil, 750 ml (1¼ cups) water and the strained juice of 2
lemons with a bouquet garni (consisting of parsley, celery, fennel, thryme and
bay leaf), 12-15 coriander seeds and 12-15 peppercorns for 20 minutes. Lightly brown the vegetables in a little olive oil, then pour over the very hot court-bouillon and finish
cooking. Add 2 tablespoons concentrated tomato puree (paste) to the
court-bouillon if desired.
GREENEGAGE A type of plum with a green
skin, sometimes tinged with yellow, red or purple, and greenish-yellow, sweet
flesh with good flavour; there are many different strains. Greengages are delicious eaten fresh and make
good jam. They can also be bought canned in syrup.
The
French name, reine-Claude, is an abbreviation of prune de la reine Claude
(Queen Claude’s plum), because the fruit was dedicated to Claude of France, wife of Francis I.
GREMOLATA A flavouring mixture used in
Italian cooking, consisting of chopped parsley, grated lemon rind (zes) and finely chopped garlic.
The fresh mixture is sprinkled over cooked dishes just before serving to introduce a fresh, zesty flavour.
It is the classic final flavouring and
garnish for osso buco, the veal stew
cooked on the bone.
GRENADIER Fish of the Macrouridae
family, which lives in the deep waters
of the Atlantic; it is fished from
Greenland to the bay of Biscay. It is
identify by its tapered body, which
ends in a point. The flesh is
very white, and the boneless fillets are ideal for making fish mousse.
GRENADIN A small slice of fillet of
veal, about 2 cm (¾ in). thick and 6-7 cm (2 ½ -3 in) long, cut from the loin, the filelt or the chump end of
the loin. Grenadins are usually interrelated with best larding bacon and then
grilled (broiled), fried or even
braised. A small unbarded
grenadin of veal fried in butter is called a noisette. Grenadins may also be
cut from white turkey meat.
RECIPES
Braised veal grenadins
Trim four 100 g (4 oz) grenadins and
interlard with bacon fat. Butter a
casserole dish and line it with unsmoked bacon rinds or pork skin with the fat
removed. Peel and finely slice a large carrot and a
medium-sized onion and brown them in butter, with any trimmings of meat from
the grenadins. Put the vegetables on top
of the bacon rinds. Arrange the
grenadins on top on, cover and cook gently for 15 minutes. Add 200 ml (7 fl. oz., ¾ cup) white wine and boil down almost completely. Then add a
little stock, bring to the boil, cover the casserole dish and cook in a preheated oven at 200°C
(425°¼
, gas 7) for about 40 minutes, basting the meat several times. Arrange
the grenades on an overproof serving dish, coat them with a little of
the strained cook juice and glaze in the oven.
Dilute the cooking juices in the casserole with consmme, strain and
remove the fat. Boil down further if
necessary and pour the sauce over the genadins. Serve with buttered spinach.
Fried grenadins in cream
Season four 100 g (4 oz) grenadins with
salt and pepper and sauté them in oil
until brown on both sides. Reduces the
heat, cover and cook gently for about 15
minutes until tender. Drain the
grenadins and keep them hot in a serving dish. Remove the cooking oil, from the pan and add 200 l
(7 fl oz. ¾ cup) white wine or
cider. Scrape the pan with a spatula,
add a small sprig of tarragon and boil down to reduce by half. Remove the tarragon, add 200 ml (7 fl. oz, ¾
cup) single (light) cream, and boil down, stirring continuously. Adjust the seasoning and pour the sauce over
the grenadins.
GRENADINE A refreshing drink made of
water and grenadine syrup. The latter
was originally made from pomegranates only, but today it contains vegetable,
matter, citric acid and certain red fruits.
Grenadine syrup is used as a colouring agent for cocktails, diabolos and
aperitifs.
GRENOBLOISE, A LA Prepations of fish a
ala meunic’re, garnished with capers and finely diced lemon flesh. Criutns may also be added.
GREUBONS Residue made after gently
rendering pork fat to make lard. These
coloured fragments, also known as rillous or greubons in the Jura, are used in
making a savoury.
GRIBICHE A cold sauce based on
mayonnaise in which the raw egg yolk is replaced by hand-boiled (hard-cooked)
egg yolk. Capers, fines herbes and the
chopped white of a hard-boiiled eggs are added. Gribiche sauce is served with
calf’s head (tete de vesti) or cold fish.
RECIPES
Gribiche sauce
Thoroughly pound or mash the yolk of a
hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg and gradually add 250 ml (8 ft. oz. 1 cup) oil,
beating constantly and keeping the mixture smooth as for a mayonnaise. As it thickens, add 2
tablespoons vinegar, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon each of capers, chopped parsley,
chervil and tarragon, and the white of the
hard-boiled egg cut into julienne.
GRIDDLE A flat cast-iron cooking plate,
traditionally known as a bakestone or girdle. Used lightly greased to cook griddle cakes, such as Welsh cakes, some
types of scones, including potato scones; small thick pancakes or drop scones;
and crumpets. Heavy cooking plates of
this type, varying in size and shape, are used in many countries. For example, in Britanny they are used to cook galettes
and crepes, in India they are used to
cook flat breads, such as chapaths; and in Malaysia they are used to make murtabak, a filled roti made from finely stretched dough enclosing a savoury filling. A heavy frying pan is usually used
instead of a griddle in modern kitchens.
GRIFF A French cut of beef consisting of
the muscle between the shoulder and the neck.
When food being placed between them. It is especially useful for
sardines, sausages or small cutlets, which
are often difficult to turn over on a ordinary grill. Some grills consist of a cast-iron or sheet
steel plate that is placed in direct contact with the hotplate
or burner of the stove.
Electric
or gas grills consist of burners or infrared
elements. They may be situated
above the until or in the roof of the unit. This type of grill is effective only
if the heat radiation is intense.
GRILLADE The French name for food that
has been grilled (broiled), particularly meat.
A
prime French cut of pork taken from along the blade bone or loins and usually
is also known as a grillade. These cuts are scarce, because there are only two per pig, weighing 400-500 g (14-18
oz), a grillade is slightly fatty,
tender an dtasty and is characterized by long
by long fibres, which are cut crossways before cooking Grilades are
fried or grilled over a medium heat. They may also be coated with egg and breadcrumbs, stuffed or rolled into large
paupiettes.
GRILLING A method of cooking by intense
heat the nourishing juices being sealed
into the meat by the crust formed on the
surface. The fuel traditionally used for
grilling is small charcoal (known as
braise in France). The charcoal, when thoroughly alight, is spread out
to form a bed in bed in a gail pan with a well-regulated draught. This bed of charcoal varies in depth according to the size and kind of
meat to grilled. The food is cooked over
the hot coals. When using a gas or electric grill, the food is
usually cooked under the heat source.
The
grill must be scrupulously clean and heated before the meat is laid upon it or
under it. The food to be grilled must be based with clarified
butter, oil or fat, and seasoned. Meat should be gently flattered and trimmed
before cooking.
Fish
should be scored with a knife, well coated with
butter and oil and seasoned. Fish
that is rather dry has a tendency to stick to the bars of the grill and should, therefore, be
floured before being croated with
butter or oil. This will form a covering that will enable
the fish to cook without becoming too dry. Turn grilling
meat or fish over once or twice during cooking and baste frequently
with the butter or oil, using a brush.
Grilled
food is ready when it resists pressure
it lightly touched with the
fingertip. Tiny pinkish droplets
appearing on the browned surface are another
indication that it is fully cooked. Grilled white meat should be less browned than red meat and a less intense heat should be used. Grill
fish at moderate heat and baste frequently.
Grill
poultry first if it is to be cooked in breadcrumbs. When three-parts cooked,
cover with the butter or oil and roll in the breadcrumbs.
§ Gridding
This is a form of cooking on a very hot, preheated surface, typically a heavy
fluted griddle. In America this is known as grilling. The
technique produces a result similar to
that achieved by grilling and differs from frying in that the fat drains away
into a ridge around the edge of a griddle; also the temperature is so fierce that the food seals
and cooks rapidly.
GRILL-ROOM also known simply as a grill.
A restaurant or room where, in theory, only grills are served. It is usually used to describe a restaurant in
a larger hotel, where the service is
faster and the meals are less elaborate then in the large dining room. The
name was first used in England in the 1890s.
GRIMOD DE LA REYNIERE, ALEXANDRE
BALTHASAR LAURENT French writer and
gastronome (born Paris, 1758; died
Villiers-sur-Orge; 1837). His
father, who was a farmer-general, was himself the son of a pork butcher. Born
disabled, with one hand shaped like a claw and the other like a gooses’s foot, the boy was rejected by his
aristocratic mother and eventually
rebelled against his entire family.
While pursing his law studies, his
extravagant behaviour made him quite
notorious.
§ Taste
for scandal. Shortly after becoming a qualified
barrister, the young Alexandre,
who had already pubilshed Reflexious philosophiques sur le plaisir
par un celibataire, organized a memorable dinner at the end of January
1783. He sent the following invitation
card to his guests. You are invited to
attend the funeral procession and burial
of a feast that shall be given by Master
Alexander balthasar Laurent Grimond de la Reyniere, Esquire, barriester to the
high court, drama correspondent of
the journal de neuchatel, at his residence in the Champs-Elysees. You are invited to attend at nine o’clock in the evening and
the meal will be served at ten’ Bachaumont, in his Memoires secrets, relates
the details of this curious dinner: ‘ In the middle of the table… there was a
cataflaque….. we took our seats at the table.
The meal was magnificent,
consisting of nine courses, one of which
was entirely of pork. At the end of
this course. Monsieur de La Reyniere asked his guests
whether they had enjoyed it; after everyone had replied in chorus ‘excellent’,
he said : “Gentlemen, those cooked means were from Mr. So-and-so, the pork butcher, living at such-and-such a place, who is the cousin of my father.” After another
course where everything was
prepared with oil, the host again asked his guests if they were pleased with
the oil, then said; “it was supplied by
Mr. So-and-so, the grocer, living at such-and-such a place, who is cousin of my father. I recommend him as
highly as I do the pork butcher.” By
proclaiming the plebejan origin of his paternal forebears, Alexandre, who
was indeed the grandson of a pork
buthcer, simply aimed to upset his mother, but at the same time the managed to gain a reputation as a madman,
which he carefully fostered.
He held gatherings in his father’s residence
twice a week. Bestowed with literature,
he invited not only Beaumarchais,
Chenier and Restif de la Bretomme, but also would-be poets and
public letter-writers. The
sole qualification for admission was the ability to drink 17 cups of
coffee, one after the other. The food
served was simply bread and butter
with anchovies and, on Saturday,
sirloin. At this stage in his life, Grimond was passionately fond of the theatre;
he became one of the best drama critics of this time.
§ From
retreat to the grocery business. Following
a particularly shocking scandal, the young barriester’s family obtained an order against him under
the king’s private seal. In April 1786
Alexandre was sent to a Cistercian monastry near Nancy, where he spend three years. It was at the table of the abbot
the Grimond discovered the art of good eating, and his knowledge of this
improved of this improved in Lyonand Beziers, where he next took refuge.
In order to make a living, he decided to
set up in business. In the Rue Merciere,
Lyon, he started a business. In the Rue Merciere, Lyon, he started a business
selling groceries, hardware and perfumery. Then
he traveled through the
fairs in the south of France. But the death of his father in 1792 brought
him back to Paris. He renewed his ties with his mother , whom he saved from the
gallows, and endeavored to pick up a few fragms its of his father’s estate,
including the mansion in the
Champs-Elysees, where he again organized
extravagant dinner parties. At the same
time he resumed his drama criticism. But
Talma, whom he had often attacked.
Managed to have his review le censeur
dramatique suppressed.
§ A
vocation for gastronomy Banned from drama criticism, Grimond turned to writing
about restaurants. This gave rise to the
series Almanach des gourmands (1804-12), an anecdotal and practical guide to Paris, including a food guide that proved
to be very successful. In 1808 grimod
published Manue des amphitryons to instruct the new rich in the conventions and
properties that they must observe. In
his Varieties nuiritives he wrote the following soup must be eaten boiling hot
and coffee drunk piping hot - happy are
those with a delicate palate and a
cast-iron throat. The local wine, a dinner at your friends house and
music performed by amateurs are three
things to be equally dreaded – cheese is the biscuit of drunkards.’
Grimod
de la Reyniere established his
authority on gastronomic matters by
setting up a jury of tasters, who awarded a kind of academic certificate called
legitimation to various dishes or foods that
were presented to them. They jury
of tasters met at intervals at Grimod’s
home in the Champs-Elysees. There, they
solemnly tasted the choice dishes sent by tradesmen who sought publicity by
making known to their customers the
judgement always favourable, pronounced by this gastronomic Areopagus. Among
the most influential members of this
jury were Cambaceres, the marquis of
Cussy and gastaldy, doctor and gastronome, who died at table when he was almost a hundred years old!
Gastaldy conceived an original
way of classifying wines: the king –
Chambertin; the queen – Romance-Conti; the regent - clos-de-Vougeot; the princes of the blood –
Romance, Romance-Saint-Vivant, Clos-de-Tart, Musgny, La Tache,
Nuits-Echezaux, Bonnes-Mares, the
first cousin of Chambertin –
Reichebourg. However, the jury of
tasters soon had to give up its sittings because some of its judgements around
protest Grimod was even accused of partiality!
Threatened
with lawsuits, Gromod had to suspend pubilcation of the Almanach. His mother had died, and he inherited the
remains of vast fortune. He married the actress with whom he had been living for
20 years and retired to the country to
live among his life long friends the Marquis of Cussy and Doctor Roques. He died one Christmas Eve, during the
midnight feast, and left, among other extravagances, the following recipe for
an ‘unparalleled roast’, punctuated with references to the actresses of his
time: ‘Stuff an olive with capers and
anchovies and put it in a garden warbler.
Put the garden warbler in an ortolan, the ortolan isn a lark, the lark
in a thrush, the trush in a quail, the
quail in alarded lapwing, the lapwing in a plover, the plover in a
red-legged partridge, the partride in a
woodcock – as tender as Mlle Volnais – the woodcok in a teal, the teal in guinea fowl,
the g ilnea folw in a duck, duck in a
fattened pullet – a white as Mlle Belmont, as fleshy as Mle vinne and as fat as
Mle Contat – the pullet in a pheasant, the pheasant in a duck, the duck in a
turkey - white and fat like Mle Arsene –
and finally, the turkey in a bustard.’
GRIS DE LILLE A soft cow’s-milk cheese
from Flanders (45% fat), also called Purant Macere and Vieux Lille. It is very similar to maroilles, with a pale
pinkish-grey washed rind, and is matured by soaking in brine and washing with
beer. It is sold in slabs 12-13 cm (5 in) square and 5-6 cm (2-2 ½ in) thick.
It has a highly seasoned, salty taste and a very strong smell; it is known as
‘the stinkes’.
GRISSINI Italian bread sticks. Long,
thin and crunchy, they are made from a dough containing butter or oil and
sometimes eggs or malt. They were first
made in Turin and are either eaten as appetizers or served
with soup or pasta dishes.
GROG A Traditional winter drink, made
with a mixture of boiling water, rum, sugar (or honey) and lemon. The rum may
be replaced by Cognac, Kirsh or whisky.
Originally,
grog was simply a glass of rum topped up with water. Its comes from ‘Old Grog’, a nickname borne by
Edward Vernon, a British Admiral, because of the grogram clock he used to wear.
In 1776 he ordered his crew to put water in their ration of rum.
The
name may also be sued informally in Australia) for any alcoholic drink
GROS-LANT A white wine from the lower
reaches of the River Loire, made from the grape of tehsame name 9also called
Folled Blanche). Pale in colour, it is light in character and very dry, a
pleasant wine to drink with seafood and shellfish.
GROUPER merou A Large marine fish that can grow to a length of more than 1.5 m (5 ft)
and weigh about 50 kg (110 lbs.). it is a member of the sea perch family.
There are two closely related species: one is found in the
Mediterranean: the other, also called
stone bass or wreckbass (cornier in French), is more widespread, also occurring in the Atlantic,
it is brown, speckled with yellow and has an enormous head
(representing one-third of its weight), a wide
mouth with a protruding bottom
lip and numerous teeth. A peaceful fish that prefers the warm seas of
the Carebbean and Mediterranean, it is a
favourite catch of underwater fishermen. It is rarely sold by
fishmongers, although its flesh is excellent. It is cooked like tuna but is particularly tasty
when grilled over charcoal.
RECIPES
Ceviche of grouper
Clean
and trim 4 groupe steaks of 200 g (7 oz) each. Cut into 1 cm (1/2 in) cubes. Squeeze the
juice from 4 limes. Place the diced dish
in a large salad bowl sitting on a bed of ice cubes. Sprinkle
the lime juice on the fish and allow to marinate for 2-3 hours, stirring
several times to cook the grouper, which must remain pink in the middle. Drain and
place in a large bowl. Peel and finely
chop diagonally 4 spring onions (scallions) and their stems, Peel, seed and
crush 3 cherry tomatoes. Add all these ingredients to the fish. Season with salt and add ½ teaspoon freshly grated ginger, 1 pinch
turmeric, chives and chopped flat-leaf parsley.
Pour olive oil on top and
sprinkle with paprika. Stir well and serve.
Grouper with corcellet sauce
Trim, gut and clean a small group,
popach it in very concentrated court-bouillon, and allow it to cool in the
stock. Take out the fish, remove the skin and
garnish with blanched tarragon leaves and thin slices of tomato.
Finely
chop 6 large, very ripe, peeled and seeded tomatoes and rub then through a
sieve. Store the resulting fresh tomato
puree in the refrigerator. Just before
serving, add 2 generous tablespoons anseed-flavoured Corcellet mustard to the tomato puree. Serve
well chilled.
GROUSE Any of several game birds belong
to the same family. They resemble fowl
and are mostly ground living. British
species include the red grouse, the black grouse and the capercaillie. The
common French species is the hazel
grouse (gelinotte), and the pin-tailed
grouse (ganga) is found in the south of France 9this species has very delicate
flesh and is usually spit-roasted). In North America there
are many species, including the ruffed
grouse, blue grouse and sage grouse.
Grouse
may be roasted, braised or made into pates or terrines.
RECIPE
Roast grouse
Mash 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) butter with 2 tablespoon lemon juice, salt and pepper. Wipe 2 plump
or 4 small prepared grouse and place
some of the butter inside each bird.
Cover the breasts of the birds
with bacon and tie in place, then
wrap each birds in foil. Place
the birds, breast side down, on a rack resting in a baking tin (pan) and roast
in a preheated oven at 200°C
(400°¼
, gas 6) for about 25 minutes for small
birds and 35 minutes for larger ones. While the larger ones. While the birds
and 35 minutes for the larger ones. While the birds are roasting fry the grouse livers in butter, then mash together
to make paste. Fry 2-4 slices of bread, crusts removed, in a mixture of butter and oil until crisp and
golden. Spread these croutons with the liver paste. Unwrap the birds, baste each one well with
hot fat, then dust the breast with flour, baste again and return to the oven
for about 5 minutes until well
browned. Serve the grouse resting
on the croutons, garnished with watercress. Serve hot game chips and rowan or
redcur ant jelly separately. The birds should be moist enough to serve without
gravy.
GRUEL A liquid food made by boiling a
cereal flour in milk, water or
vegetables broth. Gruel is one of the oldest forms of nourishment.
The Egyptians made gruel from millet,
barley and wheat the Roman legionaries was usually gruel made from wheat and
the related cereal, spelt, together with
onions, salted fish and cheese. The Germans and Franks ate gruel made
from oat. In the French provinces, the evening meal traditionally consisted of
maize (corn) or buckwheat gruel.
GRUMEAU A French word meaning a small
lump, also used to describe a clot of
blood, a coagulum formed in milk or the lumps found in a lumpy sauce or batter.
GRUYERE A Swiss or French cow’s-milk
cheese 45% fat content) with a firm but pliable
texture and a brushed and washed
rind. It takes about six months to
mature in a damp cellar and has nutty flavour.
It is ivory yellow or golden or golden brown in colour.
Gruyee
is made in Switzerland from unpasteurized milk in the cantons of Fribourg,
Neuchatel and aud; in France, it is manufactured in Savoy, Franche-Comete
and Burgundy. By analogy, the word is often incorrectly
used in France for all cooked compressed
cheeses sold in large rounds, including Emmental, Beufort and Comte.
According
to the Swiss, Gruyere cheese is named
after the Counts of Gruyere, whose coat of arms was embellished with a crane
(grue) and who settled in the Gruyere
valley in the canton of Fribourg at the
beginning of the 9th century (in France, Swiss Gruyere is called
‘Frilbourg’). The French believe that
the word comes from agent gruyer, an officer of the waterways and
forestry authorize who, in the Middle Ages, used to collect certain taxes in
the form of timber and cheese.
Gruyee
cheese that are exported are less salty than
those made for local consumption, and to enhance the pungent flavour of this excellent cheese
the Swiss preserve it is a cloth soaked either in salt water or in white
wine. The cheese is made in cheese factories in the mountains, close to
the features. It keeps for a very long time if uncut. Some connoisseurs demand a very mature cheese;
others prefer it to be fairly fresh. It is eaten at the end of meals or in
sandwiches and is used to prepare many dishes, such as fondues, grains,
souffles, croutes, croque-monsieur and mixed salads; it also served as a condiment for pasta and rice.
Gruyere
is used to make processed cheese called Crème de Gruyere. This is also made from Comte cheese and is sold in small triangles wrapped
in silver paper. Grauyere de comte is one of a number of Gruvere-type cheers made in the United State
and all over Euorope. For a long
time, a type of Gruyee cheese was
manufactured in the Jura, but
Gruyere de Comte manufacturers themselves now insist that the
appellation Gruyere de Comte be replaced simply by Comte.
GUACAMOLE A dip originating in Mexico
and consisting of avocado, tomato, onion, lemon juice and spices. It is usually
eaten with totopas, maize (corn chips.
GUAVA A fruit originating in Central
America and the West Indies but now grown in many tropical countries. There are several varieties: some are
pearshaped, some are apple-shaped, and some are shaped like walnuts.
The thin yellow skin of the guava is dotted will black spots when ripe
and sometimes mottled with green; it covers an orange-pink, white or yellow pulp. Highly flavoured and refreshing,
yet rather sour, it contains a large
number of hard seeds. The variety called
‘pear of the Indees’, which is the size of a hen’s egg, is the most popular. It
is imported from Brazil and the West
Indies (December to January) or from India and the Ivory Coast (November
to February). When
it is ripe it is eaten on its own, after being peeled and seeded (it may
be flavoured with sugar or a little rum). It is
also used to make drinks, ice creams and jellies. In Brazil the pulp
collected when making jelly is often used to make a firm jellied fruit paste or cheese, which is sliced and
served as a dessert with fresh
goat’s-milk cheese. Guava is also
preserved in syrup and is included in exotic fruit salads. In China there is a variety called the strawberry guava, which is the size of a
walnut, with a white, black, yellow or red skin and a strong flavour.
GUDGEON A small freshwater fish with a
large head, thick lips and very delicate
flesh. Formerly abundant, gudgeon
were a speciality of the small eating
houses on the banks of the Seine and
Mame that served fried food; Fulbert Dumnteil described it as that small fish – a crunchy tasty mouthful,
and stated: ‘In a good lunch, there is
no second course more delicate than a splendid plateful of fried gudgeon,
skillfully browned.’
Gudgeon
must be gutted (cleaned), wiped but not
washed, dipped in milk or beer, than drained, seasoned with salt and pepper,
rolled in flour and deep-pried.
As soon as they are crisp and
golden, they are drained sprinkled with fine salt and served with lemon as an
hors d’oeuvre. If the fish are fairly large they are fried twice, first in oil
that is at the correct temperature to
cook them, then in very hot oil to brown them.
By extention, goujons or goujonnettes is the
name given to fillets of sole and other fish cut diagonally into strips,
coated, fried and served like gudgeon or
used as a garnish.
GUELON A mixture consisting of eggs,
milk and sugar, to which cream or
buttermilk or even flour is sometimes
added. It is used to enrich fruit tarts,
combining with the cooking juices.
GUIGNOLET A cherry liqueur made from a
specific variety of cherry, from around
the River Loire. It is one of the
liqueurs of Anjou and, in the region, is
sometimes combined with kirsch.
It is quite different from the cherry
brandies of other areas and should not be confused with kirsch, which is a
distillate of the fruit and an alcool blanc.
GUUILLOT, ANDRE French chef (born
Faremoutiers, 1908 died 1993).
Apprenticed at the age of 16 in the
kitchens of the Italian Embasy, Guillot later pursued his
career in various private houses; his employers included Raymond
Roussel, an extremely rich epicurean who had
his early fruit and vegetables brought from the Cote d’Azur in a
Rolls-Royce, and the Duke of Auerstaedt. From 1952 he worked at the Auberge do Vieux-Marly, which he turned into
a restaurant of great renown. After
retiring, he wrote about his experiences and recorded his expertise in La
Grande Cuisine bourgeoise (1976) and in la Vraie Cuisine legere (1981).
He
was outspoken and did not hesitate to attack well-established traditions ‘I am
certain to annoy many restaurateurs when I say that all these flambe dishes set
a light under the custom’ers noses are no more than play-acting.
The flambe process must be
carried out at the start of cooking, in
the privacy of the kitchen.
GUINEA FOWL A gallinaceous bind, all domesticated varieties
of which are descended from an African
species that was known as appreciated by the Romans, who called a Numidian hen or Carthage hen. Before the introduction of modern rearing method in
France, young guinea fowl (pintadeaux) – a speciality of the Drome region - were
sold at Whitsun (the seventh weekend after Easter) at about 11 weeks
old, while adults, weighing over 1 kg (2 ¼
lb), were killed in the autumn.
Guinea
fowl are now bred all the year round. In France are solid with a red label
guaranteeing their origin, feeding and
rearing. The term fermier (free-range)
is reserved for birds reared with access to runs, as opposed to those that are
battery reared. The most tender and
succulent birds are the young pintadeaux. They can be roasted and prepared in the any way suitable for a young pheasant, partridge or chicken. The flesh of the adult guinea fowl is firmer
and is usually fricasseed or prepared in any other way suitable for chicken, being well basted,
barded and larded or casseroled to keep the flesh moist.
RECIPES
Breast of guinea fowl with potatoes Alex
Humbert
Prepare
800 g (1 ¾ lb) potatoes by the
Alex Humber method : slice thinly and soak in cold water for about 10 hours, then cook for approximately
20 minutes in 150 g (5 oz., 2/3 cup) clarified butter seasoned with salt and pepper. Drain off the excess butter and brown the
potatoes in the oven.
Remove
the breast meat from 2 guines fowl, each weighing about 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb),
slicing along the breastbone. Season
with salt and pepper. Heat 100 g (4 oz. 7 tablespoons) butter in a large
flameproof casserole and brown the guinea fowl breasts on both sides (8 minutes
in all), then remove. Add 4 chopped
shallots to the casserole. Cook them for
a few seconds and then mix in 50 g (2 oz, 1 cup) fresh breadcrumbs to absorb al
the cooking butter. Brown slightly and stir in 3 tablespoons wine vinegar, then
add 5 chopped basil leaves. Put to
one side and keep warm.
On
to each of 4 warned plates. Pour 2 tablespoons previously made brown gravy,
place some of the potatoes in the centre and cover with a guinea fowl breast cut into 5 or 6 slices. Give one twist of the pepper mill and add a little salt. Finally, sprinkled with the breadcrumb
mixture and serve immediately.
Guinea fowl Catalan style
Blanch 30 peeled garlic cloves for 1
minute, having first removed any green part. Peel 3 lemons and remove all the
pith. Cut 2 into quarters an slice the third one. Blanch them for 1 minute.
Roast a guinea fowl, barded with a few
thin slices of salted or smoked breast
of pork. Cut the guinea fowl into pieces. Deglaze the roasting tin (pan) with 100 ml (4 fl oz. 2 cup) of Rancio or dry Banyuls. Add the
crushed carcas of the bird and 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) of veal stock.
Simmer for 10 minutes, strain through a chinois, pressing in order to extract
all the juices. Pour this sauce on to the garlic and
lemons, and return to the hear for a few minutes. Season with salt and
pepper. Place the pieces of guinea fowl in the sauce and cook over a low heat
for 10 minutes. Serve with steamed or
roasted new potatoes or with rice.
Guinea fowl salad with fruit
Roast half a guinea fowl weighing about
1 kg (2 ¼ lb) for approximately 30
minutes. Leave to cool completely. Wash
and dry some radiccio leaves, and cover
the serving dish with them. Peel and finely slice 1 Granny Smith apple and 2
peaches. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Arrange these items on the bed of lettuce,
together with the finely sliced meat of the
guinea fowl and 25 g (1oz, ¼ cup)
blackcurrants. Blend 150 l (¼ pint, 2/3
cup ) plain yogurt with 1 tablespoon
cider vinegar, seasoned with salt and
pepper. Cover the guinea fowl with the this dressing.
Guinea fowl with chest nuts
Cut 2 small guinea fowl in half
lengthways. Brown them in hot butter in
a flameproof casserole, together with
150 g (5 oz. ¾ cup) diced belly of pork
and 3 chopped shallots. Cook gently
for approximately 40 minutes, turning
occasionally, then dilute the meat
juices with 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) red
Burgundy. Add a bouquet garni and
300 g (11 oz) cooked
chestnuts. Cook gently for a further 10 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni,
bind the sauce with 75 g (3 oz. 6 tablespoons( butter, adjust the seasoning and
serve hot straight from the casserole.
Stuffed guinea follow Jean Cocteau
Draw a guinea fowl weighing about 1 kg ( 2 ¼ lb ) and put
the liver and gizzard to one side. Soak
100 g (4 oz., 1 ¾ cups) fresh breadcrumbs in hot milk, then. Mix with 1 raw egg, 1 chopped tarragon,
chives, chopped parsley and chervil,
then the liver and gizzard, also
chopped. Stuff the guinea fowl with this forcemeat and season the
outside lightly with salt and pepper. Sew it up, bard it and tie firmly, then
fry in a flameproof casserole containing 15 g (1/2 oz. 1 tablespoon) butter and
1 tablespoon oil. When the guinea fowl begins to turn a golden colour, remove
it from the casserole and place on a
dish , then sprinkle with 100 ml (4 fl oz. ½ cup) heated Cognac and set alight.
In
the same casserole place 3 carrots and 3 onions chopped into large pieces and 2
crushed garlic cloves. Leave to cook for
a few moments, then return the guinea
fowl to the casserole. Moisten with 250
ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) each white wine and
Cognac. Add 100 ml (4 fl oz., ½ cup)
water, cover the casserole and cook for 45 minutes over a gentle heat.
Use
a fork to prick 4 boudins blancs and 4 black puddings (blood sausages0, place
them with 1 tablespoon a oil in a flameproof dish and grill (broil). Peel, quarter and core 4 applies and brown
them in a sauté pan with a little butter. Season very lightly with
salt. When the
guinea fowl is ready, carve it and arrange on a warm dish. Cover with the strained cooking liquid, sprinkle with chopped herbs and surround with the grilled puddings and apple quarters.
GUINEA PEPPER The name is sometimes
applied to cayenne pepper, but it is usually an alternative term for Melegueta
pepper.
GUINEA PIG The guinea pig has long been
a source of food in Peru. Ecuador and Bolivia where it is known as cuy or
cui. Peruvian Incas kept domesticated
guinea pigs as a source of food.
European explores named this rodent, a species of cavy (carry
porcellus), the guinea pig and introduced it to Spain in the 16th
century. It was considered a delicacy at
first, but it did not become an established source of food. Guinea pig is cooked in South America, West
Africa and the Philippines, by grilling or simmering in a rich stew.
GUINGUETTE A type of French suburn tavern, usually
situated n pleasant surroundings. Where people go to eat, drink and dance on public holidays. Some etymologists believe
that the name is derived from guinguet,
a rather sour wine cultivated in the Paris suburns; other is might
be derived from the Old French
guinguer (to jump), which has given
rise to the French word guincher (to
dance) in the 18th century ginguettes were spread out along the Seine, in the district of the
Tuileries. Their name is especially linked to the Romantic period, when they
were found outside the gates of Paris
and on the Hilltops of Belleville.
GULAB JAMUM An Indian speciality. a
dessert or milk which is boiled until greatly reduced and condensed. A
little flour is added and the mixture is
rolled into small balls. These are
deep-fried in ghee or oil until golden
and then macerated in a syrup flavoured with
rose water, cardamon or vanilla.
The gulab jamun may be flavoured with spice or stuffed with a filling of
nuts and dried druits before being shaped.
GUM a viscous, translucent substance
that exudes from certain plants.
§ GUM
ARABIC secreted from acacia trees in
Sudan and Egypt. The basic ingredient of
chewing gum, marshmallow and liquorice, it is also used to glaze some items of
confectionery and as a clarify stabilizer in the chemical treatment of wines.
§ GUM
TRAGACANTH The most mucilaginous kind of gum, extracted from shrubs of the
genus Astragalus. It is used in the
manufacture of stabilizers, emulsifiers and thickeners for the food
industry. It prevents crystallization in ice cream and jam. Gutar
gum produced by a leguminous plant, can be sued for the same purposes as gum
tragacanth.
Gums
extracted from some algae are also used in cooking, as well as synthetic gums.
GUMBO An American stew or beauty soup
featuring in Creole and Cajun cooling.
A stew of mixed ingredients, including
vegetables, okra in particular, with onion. (bell) peppers, tomatoes and garlic.
Fish, crab, oysters, poultry, meat and/or spicy sausage may be added. The okra
acts as a thickening agent (okra is also
known as gumbo in West Africa) but it is not an essential ingredient in all
recipes for gumbo (and there are
many). File powder, made from ground sassafras
leaves, may be added as well as or instead of okra to
thicken and flavour gumbo.
GUMPOLDSKIRCHNER A wine town Thermenregion, Austria, producing good white
varietal wines, particularly from Zierfandler and Rotgipler grapes
GUARNARD Grondin also known as
gurnet. Any of several European fish of the family
Triglidae. The French name, meaning
‘grunter’, derives from the gruntign
sound the fish is said to make when it comes
out of the water. In Britain it
is also called sea robin. All gurnards
have a cylindrical body, a spindle –shaped tail, a large head protected by bony
plates, an elongated muzzle and a wide mouth. The pectoral fins are finger-shaped and are used to
explore the muddy sea bed. They
are 2060 cm (8-24 in) long and their
weight varies between 100 g (4 oz) an
d1.25 kg (2 ¼ lb). there are several
types of gurnard, which are mainly distinguished by their colour: the cuckoo gurnard is red mottled
with green, the grey gurnard is
brownish-grey, the red gurnard and the
trigle lyre are pink or red, with
lighter coloured bellies.
The
fish should always be carefully trimmed with the fins removed. The flesh is
lean, white, firm and sometimes rather
tasteless, but it is rich in protein, iodine and phosphorus. It is usually poached or used in soups and bouillabaisse. It can also
be cooked in the oven or even grilled
(broiled), but in this case the fish must be protected, because the fragile skin is damaged by excessive heat.
Gurnard
is often sold in France as red mullet, but although it has
a delicate flavour it cannot really
be compared with this fish. However, all
recipes for red mullet are suitable for
gurnard.
RECIPE
Baked gurnurd
Choose 2 good quality gurnards, each
weighing about (400 g (14 oz). Draw,
clean and dry them. Score oblique cuts on the back of each fish from the
backbone outwards and pour in few drops
of lemon
juice. Butter a gratin dish and spread in it a mixture of 2 large
onions, 2 shallotts and 1 small garlic
clove, all very finely chopped. Sprinkled with
chopped parsley. Place the fish
in the dish and add 200 ml (7 fl oz. ¾ cup) white wine and 50 g (2 oz. 4 tablespoons) melted
butter. Season with salt and pepper and
sprinkle with a little rhyme. Arrange
slices of lemon along the backs of the fish and sprinkle with chopped
fresh bay leaf. Bake in a preheated oven at 240°C
(475°F,
gas 9) for about 20 minutes, basting the fish several times during cooking.
Just before serving, flame the gurnards with 4
tablespoons heated pastis.
GUT To remove, by hand r mechanically,
the innards, including the giblets, of
an animals, bird or fish.
GYOZA Japanese name for
Chinese-style dumplings. Circle of dough are folded into little pastries over the filling, which usually consists of
well-seasoned minced pork with
vegetables. The dumplings are fried in a little fat, then a small quantity of
water is added and the pan is covered so
that the dumplings ar steamed until cooked through. The gyoza are served
freshly cooked, with a dipping sauce.
When cooked by frying and steaming, the
dumplings re known as pot
stickers or pan stickers. They may also be deep-fried, steamed or simmered in
broth.
GRYO Greek spit-roast lamb. Minced
(ground lamb is shaped on a vertical spit and cooked in front of a heat source.
The meat is sliced off the outside as it is cooked, then served in pitta bread,
with onion, tomato, lettuce and tzatziki
(cucumber in yogurt) or a yogurt) or a yogurt sauce . rolled up in the bread,
with its accompanimetns, gyro pita is a
popular snack.
GYROCEPHALUS RUFUS gyrocepbale rousatre
A funnel-shaped mushroom, split at the side and orange – pink to
reddish-brown. It grows in damp meadows
and under conifers. Fleshy and tender it
is eaten raw in salads when unripe; otherwise
it can be eaten only after thorough
cooking.
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