D

DAB limande Any of several related flatfish found in the North Sea, the English Channel and the Atlantic, north of the Bay of Biscay.  There are several varieties of cab.  The true (or European) dab is lozenge-shaped; its upper surface is brownish with orange-yellow spots.  The false dab (or red dab) is a rather elongated oval in shape, brownish-grey on the upper surface and light sandy grey underneath. The lemon dab (or lemon soel) is rounder and has a superior flavour; it is reddish-bronw with darker spot, and the gills are bordered with an orange line. The American dab is similar to the European species. Dab are 20-35 cm (8-14 in) long and weight 175-250 g (6-9 oz). However; 40% of their body weigth is lost diring cleaning and filleting. They are sold either whole or filleted, and are usually grilled (broiled) or baked.

DACQUOISE A traditional gateau of southwestern France, also called palois (the Dacquoise are the inhabitants of dax, the palois those of Pau). It consists of two or three layers of merique mixed with almonds ( or almonds and hazelnuts). This base, a variant of suces, is light and crisp and should be stored as for marinque. The layers are sandwiched together with whipped cream or French butter cream, variously flavoured. Fresh Fruit may be added to the filling, particularly strawberries. The top is usually dusted with icing ( confectioner’s) sugar.

RECIEPT

 

Coffee dacquoise

Whisk 8 egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks. Then gradually add 200 g (7 oz, 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and 2 teaspoons vanilla sugar, whisking continuously, and continue whisking until the merinque is firm and shiny.  Gently fold in 150 g (5 oz. 1 ¼ cups) ground almonds and 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup) chopped blanched hazelnuts.  Butter three 20 cm (8 in) flan (pie) rings, place them on buttered baking sheets and divide the mixture between them.  Cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for about 20 minutes.  When the meringue rounds are cooked, turn them out and allow to cool.

            Prepare a coffee crème au beurre (see creams) for the filing using 250 g (9 oz, 1 cup) sugar cooked with 100 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) water, 8 egg ylks, 250 g (9 oz, 1 cup) butter and 1 tablespoon coffee essence (extract).  Toast 100 g (4 oz, 1 cup) flaked almonds.  Place the coffee cream in a piping (pastry) bag fitted with a fluted nozzle and sandwich the meringue rounds with thick layers of piped cream.  Sprinkle the top with toasted almonds and dust with icing (congectioner’s) sugar.

DEFINA The Sephardi version of Cholent.  This Arab ragout of beef cooked with chick peas, potatoes and whole eggs cooked in their shells, layered with spices, can be traced back as fas as the 2^nd century AD, when it was cooked in pots sealed with a flour and water paste (lute) and taken to the public bakehouse for cooking.  The word dafina, used in English, is taken from Moroccan Arabic (adafina in Soanish, (fina in French and Arabic).

DAIKON Also known as dai-co, mooli, Japanese radish or Satsuma radish.  A type of white-skinned radish, widely cultivated as a vegetable in the Far East, for use raw, in cooked dishes or as a garnish.  Its large fleshy root can grow up to 1 m (3 ft) in length and weight several kilograms.  As well as being added to soups and braised dishes, finely grated or shredded white radish is a popular salad ingredient and it is used to make fresh relishes.  It is also pickled in salt.

DAIQUIRI A rum cocktail named after a small village on the Cuban coast near Santiago, where, in the 19^th century, the Americans supposedly landed after defeating the Spanish.  Generally served in a frosted glass, fresh fruit, such as streawberries, may be added and the cocktail may be diluted with mineral water.

RECIPE

Daiquiri

To frosts a glass, dip the trim in water and then in sugar, into a cocktail shaker put I measure of care sugar syrup, 2 of lemon 3 of the white rum and 1 tablespoon crashed ice.  Shake for several seconds. Then pour into the glass.

DAL also dhal and various other seedlings.  A Hindi word meaning leguminous and applied to split pulses as opposed to whole pulses. Known as grand vegetarian dishes are important in Indian, Pakistan and Singhalese cooking, and dale are a good source of vegetarian protein.  The term is also applied so dishes of the cooked split pulses prepared to this or soup-like consistency.

            There are many types dale, the names of which are subject to regional variations and different spelling Common types include channa dal, are lentis, tore dale are pigeon peas; uric dale are prepared from round black beans, and debut and is a superior dale prepared from the same small black beans but washed until white.

            For dal, the dish, the split pulses are coked in water, often until reduced to a puree.  Spices and other flabvouring ingredients, such as onion, garlic or ginger, may be added.  Before serving, the dal may be garnished with a flavouring mixture, including ingredients such as whole seeds, fresh or dried spices, garlic and/or onions cooked in oil or ghee.  Herbs, such as curry leaves, fenugreek leaves or fresh coriander (cilantro) may also be added.  Dial are also used to make kofta (little savoury balls) or they may be soaked and ground to a batter to make light pancakes or fritters known as dosas (often with rice).  Dal are added to some vegetable or meat dishes to thicken them.

DAME BLANCHE  Any of various desserts in which white pale colours predominate.  The name applies particulary to vanilla ice cream used as a bombe filling or served with whipped cream and a chocolate sauce to provide contrast; fruit in syrup or alcohol may be added.  Other kinds of dame blanche include a sponge cake filled with cream and crystallized (candled) fruits and completely covered with Italian meringue, a lemon ile flottante and an almond ice cream.

RECIPE

Coupes dame blanche

Prepare some Chantilly cream by mixing 200g (7 oz) double (heavy) cream with 2 tablespoons milk, 25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar, a little vanilla sugar or essence (extract) to taste and a crushed ice cube; whip until the cream forms peaks.  Chill.  Melt 200g (7 oz. Squares) dark chocolate in a bain marie with 2 tablespoons milk.  Add 25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) butter and mix well; then add 3 tablespoons single (light) cream.  Keep the sauce hot in the bain marie.

            Take 6 individual sundae glasses and put 2 scoops of vanilla ice cream into each.  Using a piping (pastry) bag fitted with a fluted nozzle, pipe a dome of Chan tilly cream into each glass.  Serve the hot chocolate sauce separately in a sauceboat (gray boat).

Peaches dame blache

Macerate 4 slices pineapple in 1 tablespoon each of kirsch and Maraschino.  Make a syrup using 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) water; 250 g (9 oz, 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and half a vanilla pod (bean), split in two.  Peel 2 large peaches and poach gently in the syrup for about 10 minutes, turning them frequently, then remove from the heat.

            Prepare some Chantilly cream by whipping 150 ml ( ¼ pint, 2/2 cup) double (heavy) cream with 1 tablespoon milk, 1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar and a little vanilla sugar or essence (extract) to taste; chill.  Drain the peaches, halve them and remove the stones (pits).  Divide 500 ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups) vanilla ice cream between 4 sundae glasses, add a slice of pineapple and a peach half to each, and decorate with a ‘turban’ of Chantilly cream using a piping (pastry) bag fitted with a fluted nozzle Serve immediately.

DAME-JEANNE The French name for a large glass or earthenware vessed holding up to 50 litres (11 gallons, 13 US gallons) liquid.  Usually encased in basketwork, it was traditionally used to transport wines and spirits.  In the Bordeaux region its capacity is about 2.5 litres ( 4 ¼ pints, 11 cups) – between a magnum and a double magnum.  The close link between this region and England explains how dame-Jeanne was corrupted to demijohn in English.

DAMIER A gateau made of rum-flavoured Genoese sponge cake filled with butter cream and covered with praline.  The sides are coated with flaked almonds and the top is decorated in a chequerboard pattern.

RECIPE

Damier

Make a Genoese sponge cake using 40 g (1 ½ oz. 3 tablespoons) butter, 3 egg yolks 90 g ( 3 ½ oz.7 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar, 90g (3 ½ oz, 1 cup) plan (all-purpose) flour and a pinch of salt.  Allow the cake to rest in the tin (pan) for 24 hours.

            Prepare a syrup by boiling 300g (11 oz. 1% cups) caster sugar in 300 mt (1/2 pint, 1 ¼ cups) water, allow to cool and hen add 3 tablespoons rum.

            Prepare a butter cream (see creams using 3 egg yolks. 150 g 2/1 cup) butter, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) caster superfine) sugar, 2 tablespoons water and 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) ground praline.  Gently melt 250 g (9oz. 9 squares) dark chocolate in a bowl over hot water.  Prepare some royal icing (frosting) using 1 egg white and 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) icing (confection) sugar.  Toast some flaked almonds and coarsely chop them.

            Cut the sponge into two equal rounds and sprinkle the run syrup over them.  Spread half the butter cream even one of the rounds with a palette knife (spatula).  Cover with the second round and decorate this with the remaining butter cream.  Sprinkle the sides of the gateau with flaked almonds.  Using a piping (pastry) bag, pipe the royal icing over the butter cream to form a chequer board pattern of 3 cm (1 2/4 in) squares fill alternate squares with royal icing and the rest with the melted chocolate.

           

DAMPFNUDELN A sweet desert, make in German and Alone.  Consisting of sounds of leavened dought taked in the oven and served either with compote, fruits in syrup jam or vanilla cream, and dusted with sugar and cinnamon.  Alternatively, it may be filled with compote of apricots in name and folded like a small turnover.

            Originally, dam finessed was a savory dish the name means scanned noodles usually accompanied by green salad.

RECIPE

dampfnadeln

  Prepare a starts dough by creaming 15 g (1/2 oz. 1 cake) fresh (compressed yeast in 200 ml (7 ft. oz. 1 cup) warm milk until dissolved (alternatively. sprinkle 1 ½ teaspoons dried (active dry) yeast over the milk and stir until dissolved) and leave in a warm place and frothy.  Then mix into 125 g  (4 ½ oz. 1 cup) strong lain (bread) flour.  Leave this starter in a warm place until doubled in volume.

            Now gradually work into the dough 100g (4 oz. ½ cup) melted butter, a pinch of salt, the grated zest of 1 lemon 5 egg yolks. 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar and 275 g (13 oz. 3 ¼ cups) strong plain flour, Roll out with a rolling pin and leave to rest for 5 minutes.  Cut the dough into rounds and leave to in a warm place for 1 hour.  Brush with melted butter, dust with icing (confectioner’s) sugar and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4), for about 15 minutes until lightly browned.

DAMSON Oval stone fruit similar to plan, but smaller, with blue-black skin and sharp fullflavoured flesh.  Related to the failace; a small round plum either balck plum either black (black bullaces) or pale yellow- green (know as white bullaces). Originating from Eastern Europe and west Asia, the damson is named after Damascus, from where it was taken to Europe.  Know as a bedge now fruit, damsons are also cultivated.

            Neither damson nor bullaces are eaten raw, but are used in cooking.  The tart, fruity flavor of damsons makes excellent preserves, particularly fruit butters and cheeses.  These thick purses have high sugar content and the cheese boils down to give a slicing consistency when cold.

           

DANDELION a perennial flowering plant that grows wild in Europe.  Pissenlit in Fench, the English name is derived from the alternative French name dent-hellion literally “lion” tooth, referring to its seated leaves); piscenlit is a reference to as supposed dietetic properties.

            Dandelion leaves are usually eaten in salads but may be cooked like spinach.  Wild dandelion leaves should be picked before the plant has flower (January-March), when they are small and sweet.  In France cultivated varieties of dandelion are available from October to March; they have longer, more lender leaves but sometimes lack flavor in salads, dandelion are traditionally accompanied by diced bacon and garlic-flavored conditions (as in salade du groits of due.  Literally donkey’s snout salad; typical of Lyon), hard-boiled chard-cooked) eggs or walnuts.

           

RECIPE

dandelion and bacon salad                       

Thoroughly wash and dry 250 g (9 oz) dandelion leaves, dice 150 g (5 oz, ¾ cup) green or smoked streaky (slab) bacon and brown gently in a frying pan.  In a salad bowl prepare some vinaigrette using 1 tablespoon white wine, 2 tablespoons oil, salt and pepper.  Add the dandelion leaves and toss thoroughly.  Pour 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar over the diced bacon and stir with a wooden spoon, scraping the bottom of the frying pan, pour the contents of the frying pan into the salad bowl.  Quartered hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs may be added to the bowl before adding the bacon if wished.

DANICHEFF The name is used for three quite separate dishes a salad, an iced dessert and a gateau.  The salad is a mixed one consisting of a julienne of cooked artichoke hearts, raw mushrooms, blanched celeriac, asparagus tips and thin slices of potato.  The salad is dressed with mayonnaise and garnished with hard-boiled (hand-cooked) eggs, truffles (either sliced or in a julienne) and crayfish tails. 

            The name danticbeff is also given to a gateau and a praline parfait ice with coffee and rum.  The origin of the name is unknown, but if seems to date from the beginning of the 20^th century.

RECIPE

Danicheff gateau

Prepare a Genoese* sponge using 4 egg yolks, 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) butter, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine0 sugar and 125 g (4 ½ oz. 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour; leave the cake to rest for 24 hours.

            Boil 300 g (1) oz. 1 ½ cups) caster sugar with 300 ml (1/2 pint, 1 ¼ cups) water in a saucepan, then allow to cool and add 2 ½ tablespoons kirsch.  Prepare some confectioner’s custard (see cream) using 250 ml (8 ft oz. 1 cup) milk, 2 egg yolks, 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) caster sugar, and 1-1 ½ tablespoon corn-flour (cornstarch).  Also make an Italian meringues* using 4 egg whites, 200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) caster sugar, and 3 tablespoons water.

            Cut the sponge cake into two equal rounds and spoon the sugar syrup over them.  Place one of the rounds on a baking sheet and thickly spread with the confectioner’s custard.  Dice a large can of pineapple, sprinkle with kirsch, and place them on top of the confectioner’s custard and cover with about 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup0 apricot jam Place the other round of sponge cake on top and completely coat the surface of the ateau, including the sides, with the Italian metingue paste, spreading it with a palette knife (spatula).  Sprinkle with about 200 g (7 oz. 2 cup; flaked almonds and dust with icing (confectioner) sugar.  Brown in a preheated oven at 200*C (40) °F, gas 6) for about 5 minutes.  Allow cooling before transferring to a serving dish.

DANISH BLUE A Danish cow milk cheese, blue with a whitish and containing about 45% fat.  It has strong and slightly piquant fallout and is sold, wrapped in foil, in rounds 20 cm (8 in) in diameter, 10-12 cm (4-5 in) thick and weighing 2.5-3 kg (5 ½-6 ½ lb).

DANISH PASTRY A sweet pastry, made from a rich yeasted doughty rolled and folded with butter as for pull pastry.  The pastry is cut and shaped to enclose a sweet filling.  Shapes include combs (leammary) and pinwheels standpatters).  An Almont paste or marzipan mixture is one of the classic fillings but various ingredients used, such as direct or fresh fruit, nuts, jams or conserves.  The pastries are glazed or iced when conlied.

            Often interned to simply as Danish, these pastries are popular with coffee or tea.  In Denmark they are called irrational (Vietnam bread) in Vietnam they are brown bapetheginet Danish pastries are included in Vietnamese inst not all Vientnamies are Danish pastries.  The Danish dough and shapes of pastry daftest from the Vien new dough which is not as light and a sphere due to a decline parsing or rising method.

DANZIG GOLDWASSER A liqueur made from spirits in which entries fruit zest.  Herbs and mace has been steeple.  It is filtered and sweetened, and then tiny pun tides of gold or silver leaf an added of polish origin, it was especially popular in the 19^th century and it is the classic flavoring for soufflé both child.

           

DAO A large wine region in the north of Portugal where the best vineyards are in the hillsides 200-500 m (660-1640 ft) high, with a very genetic soil.  Traditionally, the red wines were lean and very tannic, but with modern winemaking techniques and a change in the minimum agring laws, younger, fruit-driven wines of excellent quality are being produced.

           

DARBLAY A Parmentier (potato) soup mixed with a julience of vefetables, thickened with egg yolks and cream, and gamished with chervil.

RECIPE

potage jullenne Darblay

Prepare I litre (1 ½ pints, 4 ½ cups) pureed potatoes and dilute with about 500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups) consommé.  Add 4 tablespoons julienne of vegetables which have been gently cooked in butter.  Mix 3 egg yolks with 100 ml (4 fl. Oz. 7 tablespoons) double (heavy) cream and use this liaison to thicken the soup.  Before serving , blend in about 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) butter and garnish the soup with chervil.

DARIOLE A small deep round mould with sloping sides, or the preparation cooked in such a mould.  Dariole moulds are used to make small pastries, cheese flans, individual x bar, set custards or flans, small cakes, rice puddings and begetable pastries.  They are sometimes referred to as castle tins or moulds.

            The original dariole, metioned by itabelais, was a small puff pastry case filled with frangipane; its name is derived from an old Provencial word daurar (to brown turn golden), referring to its crust.  It is still traditional fare in Reims, on the feast of St Remy, and also in Reavais, where the frangipare is falavoured with kirsch and dusted with sugar.

            Dariole moulds are used to bake British madeleines, small cakes coated with jam and desicrated coconut, and topped with glace (candled) cherries.

RECIPE

almond darioles

Lightly butter 6 datriole moulds are line them with puff pastry.  Prepare some frangipane” cream using 75 g (3 0z. 6 tableshoops) caster (superfine) sugar, 75 g (3 oz. ¼ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, I whole egg. 3 egg yolks, 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) milk, 6 crushed macaroons.  1 tableshpoon ground almonds and 25 g (1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter.  Allow to cool completely then fill the pastry-lined moulds with this mixture.  Bake in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F. gas 7) for about.  30 minutes.  Remove the pastries from the moulds and dust with icing (confectioner’s) sugar.  Alternatively, the moulds may be filled simply with franginpane cream, without the puff pastry.

cheese darioles

Butter 6 dariole moules.  Bring 500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups) milk to the boil.  In a mixing bowl, beat 2 whole eggs and 4 egg yolks; add 65 g (2 ½ oz. ½ cup) grated chaested, slat, adpepper.  Use which to blend in the boiled milk.  Fill the buttered moulds with this mixture, place them in a bain marie and bring the water to the boil; then transfer to a preheated even at 220°c (425°F gas 7) and cook for about 20 minutes.  Remove the firm custards from the moulds on to a serving dish.  Coat with a sauce made from very hot fondue of tomatoes to which mushroom duxelies or a light béchamel sauce has been added.  Alternatively.  Serve with a good tomato sauce.  Serve immediately.

DARNE A think transerve slice of a large raw fish, such as hake, salmon as tuna.  The wond comes from the Breston dam (meaning piece).  A datle, on the other hand, is a then slice or escalope facallon of ints.  That and is flouhead isarel gathered almoled dilics may also be sautéed.

DARPHIN A flat potato cake made of greated or judienate potato cooked in a frying pan, sthen in the oven.  Until it is brown on both sides but soft in the center.  Named after the chef who created the recipe, this dish is served with Madeira or Peregueras sauce to accompany fillet of beef and fried source dos stead (filed amgnotist.  It may also be called pentilleasant the pommes de terre (potato doormar’)

RECIPE

Darphin potatoes

Peel  ( 2 ½ Ib) potatoes , rinse and soak in cold water for 1 hour: grate or cut into thin matchsticks and remove excess moisture with a cloth. Pour 250 ml (8 fl 1 cup ) oil into a flan tin ( pie pan ) or dish and hear in a preheated oven at 240 c (475 F, gas 9 ). Melt 50 g ( 2 oz ) butter in a frying pan, add half the potatoes and sauté them for 5 minutes. Then transfer them to the flan tin a press down. Repeat with the remaining potatoes. Sprinkle with a little extra oil and cook in the oven for about 20 minutes. Turn out the potato cake and serve very hot.

DARTOIS A hot pastry or hors d’oeuvre comprising two strips of puff pastry enclosing a savoury or sweet filling.  It is said to have been named after the vaudeville artist Francois-Victor Dartois, who was very well known in France in the 19^th century.

            The fillings for savoury Dartois (also called sausselis) are the same as for allumenttes: anchovies, sardines, crayfish, chicken and truffled foie gras are most often used.  Sweet Dartois are filled with confectioner’s custard (pastry cream) which is sometimes flavoured with crystallized (candied) fruits, frangipane, jam or fruit purees.  Frangipane Dartois is also called gateau a la Mamon, in honour of the composer Massenet, who was very fond of it.

Recipes

Savoury Dartios

Anchovy Dartios       

Prepare some puff pastry and a fish forcemeat. Roll and cut the pastry into two rectangular strip of equal size and chickness. Add some anchovy butter to the forcemeat and spread one of the strips with it, leaving a border of 1 cm ( ½ in ) all round the edge. Drain the oil from some anchovy fillets and arrange on top, cover with more fish forcemeat, then place the second pastry strip on top and seal the edges, cook and preheated oven at 220 C ( 425 f, gas 7 ) for 20 – 25 minutes.

Seafood Dartois

Prepare 400 g (14 oz.) pull pastry.  Peach 8 scampi in a court-boullion for 5 minutes.  Prepare 8 scallops and peach in a small casserole for 6-7 minutes with 100 ml (4 ft oz. 7 tablespoons) white wine 150 ml (% pint, 2/2 cup) single (light) cream, I goodsized shallot (chopped), salt and pepper.  Drain the scampi, shell the tails and cut into section.  Drain the scallops, reserving the liquor, and elite.  Add 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) shelled shrimps and gently heat all the seafood ingredients together in butter.  Add some Calvados or mare brandy and set it alight.  Pour the reserved cooking juices from the scallops over the mixture and chicken with 1 tablespoon beurre marie.  Adjust the seasoning allow to cool completely and proceed as for anchony Dartoins, but using the seafood filling instead.

Sweet Dartoils

apricot jam Dartois

Prepare 500 g (1 lb 2 oz.) pull pastry and chill for 1 hour.  Then divide the pastry in half and roll each half into a rectangle 15 cm (6 in) wide, 25 cm (10 in) long and about 3 mm (1/2 in) thick.

            Place one of the rectangles on a baking sheet and cover with about 400 g (14 oz. 1 ¼ cups) apricot jam.  Cover with the second rectangle of pastry and bake in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F gas 7) for about 15 minutes.  Dust with icing (confectioner’s) sugar and return to the oven to caramelize for 5 minutes Serve warm.

           

frangipane Dartois

Prepare 500 g (1 lb 2 oz) puff pastry and chill for 1 hour.  To make the frangipane, soften 100g (4 oz. ½ cup) butter with a wooden spatula.  Blend 2 egg yolks in a mixing bowl with 125 g (4 ½ oz. 1 cup) ground almonds.  125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, a little vanilla essence (extract) and the softened butter.  Cut the pastry into two rectangles 25 cm (10 in) long and 15 cm (6 in) wide.  Complete as for apricot jam Dartois.

raspberry and apple Dartois

Prepare 500g (1 lb 2 oz.) puff pastry and chili for 1 hour.  Peel 575 g (1 ¼ lb) cooking apples, cut into guarters.  Core and slice finely, then toss in 2 tablespoon leomn juice.  Puit the apples into a saucepan with 125 g (4 ½ oz. Cup) caster (superfine) sugar. 40 g ( 1 ½ oz. 3 tablespoons) butters and half a vanilla pod (bean) cut in two.  Add 1 tablespoon water and cook over a low heat, stirring from time to time.  When the apple  are reduced to a puree, remove the vanilla pod and allow to cool.

            Roll out the pastry to a rectangle 3 mm ( ½ in) thick, and cut it into twelve 10 cm it into twelve 10 cm ( 4 in) squares mix the stewed apples with 2 tablespoon raspberry jam and place a generous spoonful of the filling in the center of six of the pastry squares.  Moisten the edges of each square with water and cover wish one of the remaining squares.  Pinch the edges to seal the pastry.  Complete as for apricot jam Dartois.

DARTOIS  Also a la of Artois, the name of various preparations, all dedicated to the Comte d Artois, future % of France.  The Dartois garnish for large pieces of meat cpnsists of glazed carrots and turnings braised celery hearts and highly fried potatoes, arranged in lunpets around the meat.  Dartois soap in a puree of white team with the adohigh of a high palience of vegetable in caron of lamb.  Dartois the joint is surrounded by potato cases (shells) filled with petits pouts and served with Mediera sauce.

DASHI the Japanese name for stock.  Stocks used in Japanese cookery are very light, made by soaking dried konbu seaweed and/or other ingredients in water.  Dried cured bonito flakes may be used with the konzu.  Niboshi, small dried fish. May be used instead of bonito flakes, depending on the type of dashi repaired.  The ingredients may be soaked more than once; the first stock, known as schiban dashi, has the best flavour and it is used for fine or light soups and dishes.  Niban dashi is the stock reading from the second soaking and this is used in soups or dishes with stronger or a wider variety of ingredients.

Dried Bonito and other ingredients for dashi are sold in sachets for adding to a stated quantity of water.  Instant dashi powders or other types of convenience dashi are available.

           

DATE The fruit of the date palm.  Brown and fleshy, about 1 cm long and growing in clusters, the date is rish in sugar.  The Greeks, who called it dediclos because of its shape.  Used it in sauces for fish in meat and included it in various cakes and pastries.

Thought to have originated at the pesuan Gulf, the date palm was the three of late for the haldeans what avle both the fruit and salt the sap, used its fibres for weaving and its nuts as fuel.  Dates may be soft, with light tender flesh ideal for eating fresh;semi-dried with a good flavour and moderately weet, for selling as the popular dried date hand dates are very sweet, high fruit known as camel or locad dates.  Dates are now cultivated throughout North Africa and Arabia, and in Pakistan the USA (California) and Australia.  Only a few of the many varieties are exported, notably deglet noor (meaning date of the light).  Native to Tunisia, but also grown in Algeria and the USA.  This is golden brown, with a mild flavour and a light flesh which is slightly transparent.  It is also  known as deglet nour or ennour, or Muscat date.  Others include the balauri (also hallaurt or balauy) a pale coloured date which is very sweet, and the lebaleseb, which has orange-brown skin and is very fragrant.  The kbadraut date is similar to the balawl, but it is not too sweet, known as chadraunt in Israel, this variety is grown particularly in southern iraq.  Medfool or medful dates are red, full flavoured and fleshy; they are grown in Egypt and California.

Dates are used fresh – they are frozen for export to prevent them from over-riperning, then thaved for sale as fresh produce.  Semi-dried dates are whole, tender and succulent with a good flavour balancing their sweetness.  Dried dates are firm, sicky and very sweet; they are available pressed into blocks or chopped and rolled in sugar as well as whole.

The sap of the date palm produces a wine; grayish and sweet, which ferments rapidly to become sparkling.  This refreshing drink is also consumed in India, where dates are used to make spiced sauces, confectionery and cakes.  Thibarine is a rich, sweet Tunisian date liqueur.  In Iraq, date juice serves as a condiment for soaps and salads.

Dates are eaten as sweetness, other stuffed or iced (frosted).  North African outside makes varied use of them, notably in tafines (rafodts), sweet couscous and curry – falvoured dishes, and even for stuffing fish (shad).  Dates are also used in baking fritters, nougats and jam, and are crysrallized (candied).

RECIPE

date fritters

Remove the scones (pits) from some dates and fill each one with very thick confestioner’s custard (pastry cream) flavoured with kirsch or rum.  Coat the dates in batter and deeptry them, then drain and dust wish icing (confectioner’s) sugar.

date nougat

Remove the stones (pits) from 1 kg ( 2 ¼ lb) dates. Toast 250 g (9 oz. 2 cups) blanced almonds in a frying pan, without fat.  Prepare a syrup by boiling 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar with 4 tablespoons water until the temperature reaches 110°C (230°F).  Remove from the heat stir in 250 g (9 oz ¼ cup) honey, then quickly mix in the dates, almonds 2 pinches of white pepper. 1 teaspoon ground ginger and the same quantity of tahini (sesame paste) or ground sesame seeds.  From the mixture into a sausage shape and slice into rounds Store in an airtight container. 

Staffed dates

Prepare same almond paste as follows heat 150 g ( 5 oz. 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar in a heavy based saucepan with 500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups) water and 1 tablespoon liquid glucose.  When the temperature reaches soft ball 115°C (240°F), remove from the heat and add 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup) ground almonds.  Stir with a woodeb spatula to obtain a granular texture.  Allow to cool.

Remove the stones (pits) from about 30 dates, with our separating the two halves.  When the paste is cold knead it in small quantities until supple and then form it into a large hall Hollow this out, and pour into the hollow a good tablespoon of kirsch and 3 drops green food coloring knead the paste again to spread the color evenly.  With the palm of the hand, roll each slice into an olive shape; use one to fill each date.  Serve the stuffed dates in individual paper pent four cases.  They may also be sprinkled with crystallized sugar.

DAUBE A method of dressing meat (beef, motton turke goose pleasant cabby pork.  Chicken certain vegetables (bonitos mushroom. Palm hearts) and some fish (tuna) meat cooked and daubed this graced and red wine stop will season with herbs: the name is thought to come from the Spanish dobar s(to brace).  The word daube alone generally means a join of beef braised  in wine, a popular dish in several southern provinces of France where it is served hot or cold.

RECIPES

daube of beef a la béarnaise

Cut 2 kg ( 41/2 lb ) top rump chuck beef into 5 cm ( 2 in ) cubes, lards each cube crossways with a small piece of pork streaky ( slab ) bacon rolled in chopped parsley and garlic seasoned with crushed thyme and bay leaf. .marinate these beef cubes for at least 2 hour in a bottle red wine and 4 table-spoon brandy with 1 large sliced onion, 2 sliced carrots and a bouquet garni of parsley, thyme and bay leaves. Drain, reserving the marined, pat the cubes of meat dry and roll them in flour. Brown the meat and vegetables separately.

Line the bottom of a flameproof casserole with slices of beyonne ham, then add alternate layer of the meat cubes and vegetables. Add the bouquet garni. 2 3 crushed garlic clove to the reserved marinade and a few spoonfuls of stock: then boil for 30 minutes. Strain and pour over the meat. Cover the Casserole and seal on the lid with a flour- and- water paste. Bring to the boil on the hob ( stove top ) then cook in 4 pregexted at 120°F gas ½ ) for 4-5 hours.

Serve the doube from the casserole after skimming off some of the fat. In bearn this daube as served with a commeal (manize) porridge, which is easen cold and sliced as an alternative to tread.

Deube of beed a la provencale

Cut 1.5 kg ( 3 ¼ lb) lean chick or silverside (bottom round) into 6 cm ( 2 ½  in) cubes.  Lard each cube crossways with a piece of fat bacon roled in dhopped parsley and garlic.  Put the meat into an earthenware dish or casserole with a calf’s foot, if available, and cover with 600 ml ( 1 pint, 2 ½ cups) white wine mixed with 2 tablespoon brandy, salt and pepper.  Marinate for (5 oz. 1 ½ cups) mushroom, 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) chopped raw onion, 2 crushed tomatoes, 150 g (5 oz. 1 cup) diced and blanced thick streaky (slab) bacon and 100g (4 oz. 1 cup) balck olives.

            Remove the fat from some bacon rinds. Blanch, wipe and use the rinds to line the bottom of an earthenware casserole just large enough to contain the meat and its garnishes.  Add 2 sliced carrots then add alternating  layers of meat cubes and the begetable and bacon mixture.  In the center of the meat place a large bouquet gami consisting of pardried orange peel.  Add the white wine mixture from the marinade plus an equal volume of beef stock so that it just covers the meat.

            Cover the casserole, seal the lid with a flour-and-water paste, and cook in a preheated oven at 120°C (250°F gas ½ ) for 6 hours.  Remove the bouquet garmi allow to cool, then skim off the fat.  Serve the daube cold in slices, like a terrine, of hot (reheated in the oven).

Other recipes see goose, tung turkey.

DAUBIERE A braising pot of stoneware, earthenware or gahanized copper used for making daubes and othe braised dishes which require a long slow cooking time.  Like ethe braisietre (braising pan), it was originally designed for cooking over charcoal, the dambiere has a lid with a raised edgfe for holding burning charcoal or boiling water.

DAUDET LEON Frensh writer and journalist (born Paris), 1867, died Saint-Remy – de –Provence, 1942) bounder, with Charles Mauras, of Eathon francatse, Daudet was an unashamed polemicis and one of the greatest gastenomes of his time.  In Paris recuhe encludes Paristan life though its restauratism and its chefs, from the best known to the humblest.  At the pension laveus, he invented hauback (which he sasid wa dedicated to a Bulgarian general), comprising white haricot berans, saitered potatoes and eggs sar le plant.  He was a regular customer at a Grille, a where and rubbed shoulders oer the beef hash and pickled  pork.  But he also patamized the Tour Argent, when, with his friend Bavinsky, he discussed such topics as the merits of an endive fedocory salad, lightly crushed in absinthe, to accompany foie gras, his description of Ferederic cutting up canard au sand (duck cooked in its blood) is famous in fasronomic circle at Weber’s house.  He descrebid Marcel Proust, a doe-eyed young gentleman muffled up in an enomous overxant being served with grapes or pears.

            A founder member of the Academic Goncourt, he organizaed the lunch at which the first Prix Goncourt was awarded.  For this first lunch at the Grand Hotel and for savswqueent ones at Champeans, the Café de Paris and Droutant.  Dank’t compilot the menus and favoraties cooking as well as that of Beanjodis, the third mer of layout.

            His famous galfments on his contemporaries reflect the accerbith of a committed journalist and his love of the good life; the eloxpuethere of Jauries was full like a Geuyene of which each hole is a metaphor.  Renan was gracious with lust and sauce; Roland started to wringle like selfish wprinkled with lemon, as for Clemenceau, he was as appelizing as a cabbage soup in which the spoon of eloquence would stand up.

            Persuaded that the best thereapy for all ills is good food, he waxed hyrical he et a chef who fully satisfied im, such as Madame Genot, his favourite restauteur of the Rue de la Bangue, who wa to fastron my what Beethoven is to music.  Baudedame for pastry, and Rembrandt to painting.

            Dauder’s second wife was Marthe Alland, his cousin, who was responsible under the pseudonym of Pampille, for the grestmonomic column in (Action francabe and edited les bonus plants de France (1924).

DAUMONT, A LA Designating an opudent garnish dating from the time of the Restoration (and no douts dedicated to the Due d’Aumont).  Designed punsquality for large brased firsh, such as shad, salmon or furded it comprises fish quenetles shoes of truth clade tails a tla  shell or barquetlest, button mushroom and soft me, all coated with fresh break numbers and sautéed in butter. The deds is serveak with a nomurade same finished with crayfish butter.

            Today, the name is given to simpler fish dishes, as well as to a dish of soft-boiled (soft-cooked) or poatched eggs with craylish and mushroom.

RECIPES

poached eggs a la Daumont

cook some large mushroom caps in butter, drain and top each one with a spoonful of a salpicon of craylish tails a la Nantua.  Arrange a poached egg on each mushroom cap, coat with Nantua sauce and garnish with a slice of truffle.

sole fillets a la Daumont

Prepare about 150 ml (1/4 pint, ½ cup) salpicon of crayfish tails a la Nantua.  Fillet 2 large sole.  Prepare 400g (14 oz. 2 cups) fine whiting forcemeat and add 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) crayfish butter.  Spread the sole fillets with the stuffing and fold them over.  Place them in a buttered gratin dish, add sufficienet fish fumer to just cover them and poach gently.  Gently cook 8 large mushroom caps in butter, drain and top each with the crayfish salpicon.  Drain the sole fillets and place one on each mushroom.  Coat with normande sauce and serve very hot.

DAUPHIN a soft cow’s milk cheese from Haincaut  in France, with a brown rind and containing at least 50% fat.  Excellent from September to May, Dauphin cheese is made from the same type of curds as Maroilles cheese but is highly seasoned with parsley, tarragran pepper and cloves.  It can be shaped like a croissant, heart, shield or rod.

            Greated in the reign of Louis XIV, it owes its name to a royal edict that exempted carters from Maroiles from the penny title payable to the Dauphin, which was levied at Cambrail on each wagon coming from Hainaut in Belfium.

DAUPHINE See opposite page.

DAUPHINE,  A LA a method of preparing vegetables, such as celeriac (celery roof) or aubergines (eggplants), in the same way as dauphine potatoes.  If the puree obtained is too watery – as can happen with courgettes (zucchini) – it is dried off in the oven.

            The name is also given to joins of meat or game garnished with dauphine potatoes.

DAUPHONE POTATOES  Potatoes reduced to a puree, added to choux paste, shaped into halls and fried in very hot fat.  They are used to accompany gailed (boiled) or most meat or game.  The mixture may be enriched with graed cheese or Bayonne ham, especially for eroquettes (see lorette).

RECIPE

Dauphine potatoes

Peel 1 kg ( 2 ½ lb) floury potatoes, cut into quarters and cook in salted water until very soft.  Drain thoroughly and mash to a puree.  Prepare some choux* paste using 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) water, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter, 250 g (9 oz. 2 ¼ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, 7 eggs, a pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.  Mix the dough with an equal volume of the potato puree.  Heat some cooking opil to about 175°C (347°F) and drop the mixture into a spoonful at a time.  When the potato balls are puffed up and golden, drain on paper towels, dust with fine salt and serve very hot. 

DAUPHINOISE, A LA a method of preparing potatoes that is a specially of the country of the four mountains’ (Lans-en Veroes,-Lans, Autrains and Savenage).  The potatoes are cut into tailons (pound slices) and arranged with single (light) cream in a gretin dish which has been nilubed with garlic and buttered.  However, gratin dauphinois is often made by pousing a mixture of eggs, milk and cream over the potato slices and prinkling the dish with grated choose Grain saround, from the reighbouring region is made without milk. cream in eggs instead it consist of alternating layers of potato and granted beauton cheese with knobs of butter. All covered with bouillon.

DEBARRASSER A French word meaning literally to clean away: used in causine to describe the transfer of food from the cooking vessel to a place. Such as a cupboard or a marble

Slab. Where it can be cooled or kept for letter use.in callering. Debarrasser we muse en place is to remove from the vicinity of the oven (stove) or work station the ulensil that where employed in preparing a dish or meal.

DECANT:  to transfer a liquid from one vessel to another after allowing suspended imporities to settle. in French. Decanter is used in avariety of contexts: melted butter is decanted after skimming as is deep frying fat and stock after use. The same word as even used for extracting meat from the stock or sauce in which it has been cooked; the cooking liquid is then strained thickned if temporary, and used to make a sauce in a which the meat is given a final simmer.

            Wine is decarted by transferring it carefully into a carade so that any depself that has formed in the but the during manutation is left behind.  Decaming wine also pounds oxygnatution, which is often beneficial, in practice, only old red wines are fulfioudly devantel, the batter lanner and wilid pigments they contain must ramin in the bottle.  Fully matured wines should be decanted juct prior to serving they can be so fragile that exposure to the air may cause deterioration.  Young concentrated wines with pronounced tannins may also benefit decanting as thus gives the flavour an opportunity to open up.

DECOCTION The extraction of the conditions of a local by boding at in walter for varying length of time.  In this way meat the vegetable boundling boundless and animals extracts are made.  This produce should not he confined with infusion, in which boiling wate is poured over the substance but the boiling is not continued.

DECOUPOIR a small sliglsy criminal cutters of stainless steel or galvanized iron, that cuts decorative slices in the form of s star, infoil heart, diamond spade or leaf, from soft foods such as truffles, tomatoes and jelly.  It should not be confused with a pustry cookier cutter, used in patserie.

DECUIRE A French term meaning to lower the cooking temperature of sugar syrup or jam by adding to it gradually, while stirring sufficient dold water to gave it the correct consistency.

DEEP-FRYING A method of frying food by superging a completely in fat.  Common as a commercial means of cooking east food, it is also a oral mixture of preparing fine ingredients when carried out by a skilled cook.  Savoury and sweet items can be deep-fried from plain ingredients to delicate oxyparties and fritters, light doughnuts, crisp pastries and exotic Itallers.  Carried out in deep ouns in the.  Western kitchen or in the curved hose of the Oriental wok, this is an international method.

            The wok, stay be traditional for deep frying a few small items in a comparatively small amount of oil.  But when cooking large items, such as fish fillets, or a large fruits of food out in small pieces, a deep pan is credetial prevent the lat oron holding over.  The pan should be no more a third folled with cold lat as thos leved mes when ingredients are added and the fat buddles up and spoits.

            Deep frying is carried out at a high temperature so that the food is sealed.  Becomes crisp and browns quickly.  If the fat is not hot enough, some is alwarded by the food and the result is gresy.  Also, at too low a temperature the outside does not become crisp ot it too long to do so, forming a thick, often and greasy cruist.

·         Choice of fat 1 using the right type of fat is essencial for food results and safe coking.  Fats melt, boil and from at children temperature.  When over beated fats being decompose or inteak dows and peture smoke – this is called the smoking point.  The falvour of the fat as garlic.  When gereah some fats will spontaneously makes it break down and smoke more easily, similarly, overcooked debris from deep-fried food also incourage the fat to break down.  Ot only me overheated fats undertable for culinary use but they are not suitable for a healty diet and should not be consumed erergularty

            Animal solt as land or meat dropping are conditional fats for deep- trying because they can be heated to ahigh temperature without burning.  Many vegetable oils are also suitable and they are both more convenient and versatile as they do not taint the food in the same way as same meat dripping vegetable oils are also more appropriate for balanced eating.

            Groundnut (peanut), soya, corn, sunflower and graperseed oils are suitable for deep-frying.  Palm oil is suitable, but it is high in saturated fat and blended vegetable oils often contain a high proportion of palm oil.  Olive breaks down and burns easily;  although some foods are deep-fried in olive, oil, it is not generally considered sutiable for this.

·         Food for deep-frying  Tender foods that cook  quickly are suitable.  The pieces should be small or thin so that they cook through before becoming too brown outside.  Fish, chicken, small pieces of tender meat, vegetable, fruit, eggs and cheese can all be deep-fried.  The method is also used for prepared mixtures, such as croquettes, rissoles, pastries and fritters. 

            Chicken and meat should be cut into fingers (goujons), thin slices (escalopes/scallops) or small cubes (as for Chines-style sweet- and sour pork) to ensure they are cooked through.  Slightly larger portions of chicken, such as breast fillets, quarters or drumsticks, require the temperature to be regulated carefully to ensure that they cook right through.

            Eggs set and become: crisp when deep-fried.  Beaten eggs are an important ingredient for setting coatings in place.  Whote eggs can be deep-fried from raw – they should be cracked into a cup and slid into the hot fat.  Their high water content causes much spitting as it evaporates, then they rapidly set outside and puff up into crisp balls, with the yolks remaining soft in the center.  They should only ever be deep-fried individually as they cook in seconds and require close attention.

·         Coatings for deep-frying Delicate foods or items that soften easily during cooking coated before all types of frying.  This is particularly important for deep-frying.  The coating should cook quickly to form a crust, preventing the food from absorbing fat and protecting the surface from overcooking.  Delicate fish, light vegetables and fruit all have to be  coated before dee-frying otherwise they overcook, disintegrate or fall apart.

            The coating should also be strong enough to contain certain ingredients or mixtures, for example the coating on deep-fried cheese prevents the cheese from running and disintegrating.  Similarly, when making light croquettes bound in a sauce, the coating sets quickly to retain the mixture, which is then soft and fluid when the croquettes cut open.

*Flour This is a simple coating for foods that are resilient and require the minimum of protection.  It is used mainly for pan frying or shallow frying, which is not as trash a method ad deep-frying but it can be used for some deep-fried ingredient.  Season the flour and the roll the prepared food it in. the food should be moist or slightly damp to encourage the flour to stick and it should be added to the hot fat immideately it is coated.  Sometimes the four is moistened with milk before being floured.

* EGG AND BREACERT SON.  This is a firmer coating affonding more prodication.  Dry white bread minds are usually the best as they made a line, cups coating that turns golden brown during cooking.  Ready browned break nimbs tend to become too brown.  Salt white breaden can be used for some foods but they tend to be slightly gresy as they absorth more fat.  The food should be dasted with flour, then dipped in beaten egg and finally, coated in crundts.  The coating is repeated when a thick layer is to punted as example, when preparing choppeters from a well-challed light sauce which is likely to run quickly.  Similarly when making chicken Kiev. Where the fillets chicken folded around a pat of farlic butter that melts during cooking the coating must be thick and even to retain the garlic butter.  Chilling found after coating in egg and breadnunths helps to set the coating and keep it in place during cooking.

* BATTER A haller iis luquil coating that sets quickly and becomes brown and crisp when deep-fried.  The butter may well used cooking: to give a puffy coating.  Flour, eggs and water or milk are typical ingredients, but a vanity mixtures can be used, including light beer or sparking mineral water, to lighten the butter.  A fairly thick flour and water, nixture may be lightened with stittly whisked egg white to give a batter with good coating properties. Becoming light, putted and crisp during cooking.  The food is usually dasted in flour before being dipped in batter and added straight to the fat.  The thickness of  the butter depends on the type of food, fine foods that cook very quickly are coated in fine light butter, a thicker butter be used for inner foods.

*  PASTRIES Choux paste can be deep-fried bery successfully, enter as the main mixture for making fruitters or as a butter type coating.  Puff pastry can also be deep fried it rises well to become crisp and golden ourside.  It should be rolled fairly thinly and used to endose wimple ingredients that cook quickly.  Filo pastry often used for deep-fried items, such as small pastries with savoury fillings of fish, vegetable cheese.

·         Temperatures for deep-frying These vary according to the food,  tagging between fao 180°C 1275-450VF.  Use a thermometer to check the temperature when heating the fat and during cooking to maintain the temperature as the ingredients are added also to prevent overheating during cooking.  Another method of checking whether the fat is hot is to add a small, cube of dav-old bread to the Fat: the fat should bubble and the bread should rise to the surface, becoming brown about 30 seconds.

* 140-100PC. 1275-32579 is suitable for larger items of foods that require time to become tender or cook through example include chicken and potato wedges.

*  100-175°C 1325-347VF is the most popular temperature, suitable for foods that cook quckly for example these coated in breaderunds and butters.

*  180°C (350°F) is a high temperature for small items, such as whitehait or fish groujons, start cook very quickly.  This is also used for the second stage when double frying ingredients, for example to crisp and puff potati chips (Frech fries).

·         Successful frying.  Deep-frying is an excellent cooking method, but one that suffers from poor implementation, particularly as a means of cooking inferior fast foods.

            The food must be well prepared cut evenly so that it cooks at the same rate throughout or across a batch cooked together.  An appropriate coating should be used.  Founds that are not coated (such as potatoes) should be thoroughly dried before being added to the hot fat otherwise they spit and the splashing fat can be dangerous.

            The choice of fat and temperature control is important.  The fat should be heated to the right temperature’ before cooking and the food should be added in modest batches that do not lower the temperature too much.  A thermometer should be used for checking temperature throughtout cooking to prevent the fat from overheating

            The cooked food should be thoroughly drained in a frying basket os using draining spoon, then on paper towels before serving immediately.

            The fat should be cooked and strained after use if it has overheated slightly, it should be discarded.  Fat for deep-frying should not be used repeatedly: twice is usually enough, depending on the food and temperature.

           

DEEP FREESING, COMMERCIAL A method of preserving food.  For commercial preservation the food is subjected to rapid and

interise freesing as low as 50°C (-58°F) so that the temprature at the center of the food is lower than - 18°C (0°F) but the degree of crystallization is not such as to cause moisture loss at the time of defrosting.  Packaging precedes or immediately follows deep-freesing.  Alter this the temperature must be kept consistently low until the product is used (-18°C, 0°F).

            It is very important to maintain the low temperature of deep-frozen products, and worth checking that they are best quality before buying them.  Check he temperature of the freezer compartments (which should always have a thermimeter, snsure the packaging is not torn or damaged; the products may be covered by a very thin layer of frost (caused by the freesing of the surrounding air), but they should not have trails of ice; chopped vegetables and individually frozen small products must sound like pebbles rattling in the packet.  Display cabinets should not be overfilled to the top, since products above a certain level are no longer cool enough.

            The foods should be taken home in insulated bags as quickly as possible; and stored in a freezer or in the 4-star compartment of a fridge-freezer, if these are not available, they may be stored for 24 hours only in a refrigerator or for 3 days in the ice-making compartment.

            The rule which applies to the use of deep-frozen foods is never to refreeze a thawed product.  Many frozen products are suitable for cooking directly from frozen: check the manufacturer’s instructions carefully for cooking methods, times and temperatures. Other items have to be thawed before they can be cooked, either for best results or for reasons of food safety.  Fish and meat are often better when thawed before cooking than when cooked from frozen; large portions of poutry and whole birds usually have to be thawed completely before cooking to ensure that they cook through completely.  For example, although a frozen chicken may be simmered for several hours to make stock, with every confidence that it will be completely cooked rhroughout, to roast a bird from frozen would mean that the outside was overcooked before the meat in the thickest areas had properly thawed and cooked.

Thawing frozen food  Follow the manufacturing’s instructions for prepared products.  As a general rule, when throwing plain ingredients, remove them from their wrapping and place in a clean, deep container to each any drips.  Cover the dish rightly and leave it in a cool room or the refrigeration, depending on the room temperature,  size of the food and likely thawing time.  When poultry or meat requires lengthy thawing the drips or liquid seeps from it should be drained regularly.

            To thaw fuked such as bucad, unwrap and place them on a wire then cover with a clean lea towel leaving these, as pastries in their freezer bags can make them soggy.  Refresh the fexture of cooked breads or pastries by heating them breiith in a hot oven.

*  Freezing food Home freezers are now highly efficient designed to reads lows temperatures for freezing fresh food.  The better appliances are well insulated and designed for she minimum of loss of cold air when opened; with integral themmeters and alarms.

            In the early days of home freezing the recommended preparation of fruit and vegetables was daunting.   Research into the deterisoration of food during freezing indicates that if the food is frozen rapidly to a low temperature properly packed and the low temperature maintained during storage.  Reduction in quality is minimal.  The technique of vegetable before freezing does not signal incatly approse the quality of the produce.

            Make sure that the freezer on the fast-freeze seting well in advance.  Use good quality frezer bags to prevent frezer butrn and seal them well.  Add food in modest vetches that will frezer quickly.  Always prepare the pressure ready for cooking and food ingredients that discodit such as applied in lemon.  Open the produce or pack it in qualities that will be used in one go.  Always label the produce well especially prepared dishes as it is almost imposible them.

            Cooking fowl first can be the best soluntion, providing dishes an advance for everyday meals, especially by making batches soups and sauces for pesta are plictical and lake up minimum freezer space.  Meat casseroles, bangers or pattiesm, croquetrtes, pasta bakes, fiklled pastries ready for baking and filed pancake are afew examples.  Stewed fruit, compotes or purees have many excellent uses and they take up less space thean bulky packages of apples, goosecherries or rhubarbv and other fruits that falls and become watery when thaed if frozen raw.

            It makes sense to freeze items used frequently and in quantity, such as breads anmd others that are ideal as a special treat, such as cakes.  The frezer is also idela for storing prepared ingredients ready for cooking or emergency supplies, stock butter (palin or flavoured).  Bay leaves chopped fresh berbs ground roasted spices; prepared chilies; prepared fresh root ginger; fresh yeast (keeps well for up to I year); whipped double (heavy) cream, breakrumbs; grated cheese for cooking; and knobs of beurre manie (it keeps for 2 months).  See freezing.

·         Quality.  As a presenrving method, freezing is excellent for retaining nutriens as well as taste.  Good quality purchased frozen vegetables are processed so quickly after harvesting that they have a better vitamins content than the slightly stale examples sometimes found on the supermarket shelves.  Similarly, using the freezer for storing home-cooked dishes is a good way of having high-quality convenience foods.  Batch cooking many savoury dishes and simple sweet mixtures, cakes or pastires requires barely more effort than making a standard portion – the batches do not have to be enormous to be practical, just a double or treble portion will provide two ot three meals instead of one.

DEER.  Reminanrts of temperature, including red deer (ceft in Frensch), me deer (cheered in Fresnhc), fallow deer (claim) in Frecnh) and the shite tail deer of North amercia.  Oter related species include reindeer, sntelope, elk, moose and carobou all providing a source of meat, but they are not as important as the four main types.  The meat is known as venison and its quality varies according to the type of deer, its age, sex and habitat.  Traditionally game animals, deer are now harned as demand for venison has increased.

            Deer have been valued for their meat since prehistoric times and there is evidence of attempts to capture them in ancient Egypt, in the Middle Ages  deer were the most highly prized game animals, reserved exlusively for the nobility in vast parks where they provided hunting sport as well as meat for rich tables.

            They inspired some highly decorative culinary dis plays, in which the beast was virtually reconsttucted lying on gigantic dishes.  Deer meat was also used to land oulity.  Both stag ad hind were eaten masted, stewed otr jugged, deer-knokle soup was a famous dish, in the 16^th century, stag’s antlers, cut into seesion and friend, were considered fit for a king as were the menats drafts.  Stag’s horn was commonly sold by groces when ground, it used to prepare jellies and sweets.

            Deer retained de statis as a luxury ood until the latter part of the 20^th century, when farming increased availability.  More a method if controlling and encouranging the growth of heads than of domesticating and applying contepentory neuring methods deer lanting has produced meat that is in elementand for its healthy properties compured to intensively neared anuimals to common with other game, deer hunting is supported conina dn seasons.

DEGLAZE.  To boild small quantity of wine, stock or  other liquied with the cooking prices and sedums left so the pan after rosting or sauntering in order to make a saucer or gently.  The sediment may be cooked first. So that excess par evaporable and the concentrated sediment caramelizes, and excess fat should be skimmed off.  A small quantity of liquid is poured into the pan pver a medium to high heat and the mixture is boiled, stirring continuously to dissolve all the pan juices.  The liquor is boiled and reduce until the right consistency is achieved.  This may be quite syrup-like in texture.  Cooking is vital to ensure a mellow, rich flavour, evaporating alcohol and making the liquor less acidic.  Deglazing is sometimes preceded by flaming the contents of the pan after sprinkling with spirits.  When the liquid is well reuced. It may be seasoned and served.  Alternatively, further liquid, such as stock, may be added and the sauce thickened.  Rich sauces can be prepared by adding cream to the deglazing liquor or by whisking in knobs of butter.  Finally, the seasoning is adjusted and the sauce may be strained or sieved before being served

DEGORGER.  A frech term meaning to soak meat, poutry fish or offal cold water (with or without vinegar) to eliminate impurities and blood, particulary for white dishes or to dispel the muddy taste of river fish.

            The term is also used fo the process of sprinkling certain vegetables, particular cucumber and cabbage, with sal to draw out excess water.  The same method can be used to draw out bitter juices, traditionally a method for preparing aubergines (but modern cultivars no longer bitter, so the process is not necessary for most commercial varieties).  It also applies to the preparation of snails.

DEGRAISSER.  A French cultinary term eaning to remove excess fat from an ingredient, dish or cooking vessel.  Fat is removed  from raw or cooked meat using a small butcher’s knife; for hot bouillons, gravies or sauces, a small ladle or spoon Is used to skin off the fat, and for cold liquids, where the fat has solidified ladle should be used, or the liquid may be strained.  Fat can be completely removed from hot clarified consommé by putting paper towels on the suraface.  It uis necessary to remove excess fat from a cooking vessel before deglazing it.

DEJEUNER.  The French word for lunch, the midday meal, as opposed to petit defeuner (breadfast) and dinner.  But according to its ctynology (from the Latin disjeporture.  Later dusponare, to break one’s fast), the wood originally meant the first meal of the day, comprising essentially bread, soap and even wine thefore coffee, tea and chocolate appeared on the seemed.

            The introduction of the midday depetorer dates from the French Revolution.  Unit that time, the midday meal was called.  But because the sessions of the constituent.  Assembly began at micjlay and finished about 6 p.m. dinner had to be easten at the end of the afternoon.  The deputies, being unable to go without food from breakfast until dinner, acquired the habit of eating at about 11 a.m. a second breakfast that was more substantial than the first.  A certain Madame Hardy, who in 1804 ran a eafe on the Boulevard near the Treasure des Italiens, invented the dejenoe a lat four battle fork lunch.) offering her customer outlets, kidneys, sausages and other grills served on a sideboard.  The development of cahareta and dafes, then the birth of restaurants, turned disjeuner into an important social occasion.

            Nowadays in France, lunch is eastern generally at about 12:30 p.m. it is often a quick and light meal, although in professional circle it has become more substantial as the business lunch.  Certain events, such as the awarding of literary prizes, often take place at a special lunch.  But even today, the Sunday lunch remains a symbol of family life, not so far removed from the type of lunch served in the 1850s, mentioned by Marguerite Yourcenar:  Every Sunday, Reine presides over a meal to which all the family are invited.  The tablecloth laid for this ceremony, hardly less sacred than High Mass, is resplendent with silverware and the soft gleam of old porcelain.  Poulty quenelles are served at midday, the dessert and sweetmeats at about five o’clock.   Between the sorbet and the saddle of lamb, it is understood that the guest have the right to take a turn about the garden or even, with a slight apology for taking pleasure in such a nustie amusement, a game of bowls. (Archives du Nord, Gallimard).

DELESSERT, BENJAMIN.  French industrialist and financler 9bvorn Layon 177 ½ died paris, 1847).  Having founded a sugar refinery in 1801 in the district of Pasay in paris, in 1812 he perfected the process of sugar extraction from sugar beet.  Napoleon visited the factory and saw the potential of this discovery, which could make it unnecessary to import cane sugar from the West Indies.  He granted large funds to Delicate, earmarked a great deal of land in the north for sugar beet cultivation and, on Releaser’s advice opened one of the first sugar schools’ at Diurnal.  Meanwhile.  Detester plunged into political life and became one of the founders of savings banks in France.

DELICATESSEN A shop, or department in a store supermarket, selling high quality, luxury food and or specialist products. The word. Meaning delicacies, originated in Germany in the 18^th century. Foods may be specific to one country. And which case regional specialities rarely available in general grocery departments are usually an important feature.  International food specialities are more common, with canned, dried and preserved producs, including unusual herbs and spices, complemented by cheesesm cooked meats, pates and other prepared items.  A range of excellent marinated foods, salads, pastries and sauces or dips frequently feature in contemporary delicatessens.  High-quality breads and cakes are often.  Fine wines, liqueurs spirits, as well as confectionery may be on offer.

            With the growth in popularity of delicatessen foods and a wide range of such outlets now open.  It is important to distinguish between selling a range of prepared and slightly unusual foods and others providing true quality.  Those running and working in a good establishment (or department) will have detailed knowledge of the products they sell, the suppliers and other foods of the same type.  They will usually advise on the preparation, serving and accompaniments for their products.  Many superior delicatessens often a hamper service or rpepare culinary gifts to order.

DELICE OR DELICIEUX Fancy names given to various dessert, gateaux sweetmeats.

RECIPES

Apple delicious

Prepare and bake 675g (1 ½ 1b) apple in baking sheet in preheated oven at 190°C (375 °F, gas 5). Reduce the pulp to a puree and allow to cool. Beat 5 egg yolks with 100g (4oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar until the mixture becomes light and foamy. Whisk the 5 whites stiffly and fold a little a time into the egg-sugar mixture alternately with the apple puree and 65g (2 ½ oz, ⅔ cup dried white breadcrumbs. Empty the mixture into a buttered and floured  soufflé dish and cook in a preheated oven at 90ºC (375°F, gas 5) for 40-50 minutes. Dust with sugar and serve very hot.

Delcieux surprise

Gently meat 125g (4 ½ oz, 4 ½ square) dark chocolate in a bowl over hot water. Add I tablespoon single (light) cream, 20g (¾ oz, 1 ½ tablespoons butter. 1 tablespoon milk and the greated zest of an oange.  Keep the sause hot over the hot water.  Cut a large brioche mousseline into 6 thick slices, put them in a dish and sprinckle with 100 ml (4 ft 0z. 7 table spoons) rum. Peel 3 pears, remove the seeds, slice and place on the broche slices.  Whip 150 ml (1/4 pint, ½ cup) double (heavy) cream with 1 tablespoon very cold milk and slowly add 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar.  Cover the broche and pears with a dome of the whipped cream and pour over the hot chocolate sauce.  Serve immediately.

Lemon delice

Melt 100g (4 oz. ½ cup) butter in a bain marie.  Measure 250 g (9 0z. 2 ¼ cups) self-raising flour into a mixing bowl, then add the melted butter, 4 eggs. 200g (7 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, the grated zest and juice of a lemon, and 100g (4 oz. ¾ cup) crystallized (candied) fruits cut into very small dice.  Mix until evenly blended, then turn the mixture into a 25 cm (10 in) round loose bottomed cake tin (pan) and cook for 40 minutes in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F. gas 5).

            Meanwhile, prepare a French butter cream (see creams) using 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) caster sugar cooked to the thread stage (see sugar) in 3 tablespoon water, 4 egg yolks, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter and the grated zest and juice of a lemon.

            When the cake is cooked, turn out on to a wire rack, allow to cool and cut into three rounds.  Cover two of the rounds with a thick layer of the lemon butter cream and sandwich together.  Dust generously with icing (confectioner’s) sugar and keep in a cool place (not the refrigerator) until ready to serve.  (the layers may be sprinkled with lemon sugar syrup of liked).

Nut delices

Combine 125 g (4 ½ oz. 1 cup) plain (all-purpose flour with 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) softened butter, 1 egg  yolk, 1 tablespoon water; 3 tablespoon caster (superline) sugar and a pinch of salt.  When the dough is smooth, roll it into a ball and chill.

            Cream 65 g (2 ½ oz. 5 tablespoons) butter; add 65 g ( 2 ½ oz. Cup) caster sugar and 1 egg. Then 65 g (2 ½ oz. ½ cup) ground almonds, and finally 25 g (1 oz. ¼ cup) fecula (potato flour); mix well.  Roll out the chilled dough to a thickness of 3 mm (1/3 in).  cut out 8 discs and line tartlet moulds with them.  Prick the bottoms and cover with the almond cream.  Cook in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F, gas 5) for 15 minutes.

            Meanwhile, prepare a French butter cream (see creams) using 125 g ( 4 ½ oz. ½ cup) sugar cooked to the thread stage (see sugar) in 3 tablespoons water; 4 egg yolks, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter and 1 teaspoon coffee essence.  Chop 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) fresh walnuts and mix with the cream.  Allow the starlets to cool, then turn out and top each with a dome of the walnut cream.  Put in a cold place for 30 minutes.

            Warm 250 g (9 oz) fondant icing (frosting) to about 32°C (90°F), flavors it with a few drops of coffee essence and add just enough water to make it spread easily.  Dip the top of each tarlet into the fondant, smoothing it evenly over the cream with a palette knife (spatula).  Place a fresh walnut on each delice and store in a cool place.

Strawberry delices*

Work together in a mixing bowl 125 g (4 ½ oz. 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour with 1 egg. 50g (2 oz. ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoon water and 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) butter cut into small pieces.  When the mixture is a smooth dought, out it in therefrigerator to chill.

            Meanwhile, wash and hull 175 g (6 oz. 1 cup) strawberries and macerate in 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) icing (congectioner’s) sugar for 1 hour.

            Roll out the dough to a thickness of 3 mm ( 1/8 in). cut out 6 rounds and use them to line 6 buttered tarlet moulds; prick the bottom of each one with a fork and bake blind for about 10 minutes in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F gas 5).  Remove the paper and baking beans and cook for a further 3-5 minutes, until the pastry is cooked.  Cool on a wire rack.

            Sieve the macerated strawberries and gradually beat the puree into 125 g (4 ½ oz. Cup) unsalted butter; fill the tarlet cases with this mixture and top with 175 g ( 6 oz. 1 cup) strawberries.  Decorate with springs of mint and serve with a sweetened redcurrant coulis.

DELTEIL JOSEPH  French writer born Villar-enval, 1894 died Grabels, 19880.  having figured in Parisian literary circles.  Delited retired in 1930 to languendos, to house whose lacade bears the motto of Confuciou:  like humbly; of Deltelf’s work, la cusine paleolithique (Robert Morel.  1964)  features a selection of recipes for cuisine naturelle using unprocessed foods, such as bean soup, cassoulet, snails, grilled 9boiled) beef, poule an potand dandelion salad, as well as such aphorisms as Eat with the fingers drink with the nose and Food responds to our soul’s dream as to our stomach’s appetite.  It also offers some judictions advice.  Don’t prick the mast, it will bleed.  Ham 40 days in salt, 40 days hanging in 40 days eaten; and a quick guide to cooking times.  Pork at walking pace, beef at a trot, games at a gallop.

DEMI-DEUIL  Meaning literally half-mourning, this term describes dishes containing both black and white ingredients.  In classic cuisine, the whitefoods (pouched poutry and eggs, sweesbreads in white stock, potato salad, shellfish) are coutises (encrusted) with slices or strips of truffle and coasted with supreme sauce.

            Chicken ddemi-devil is one of the most renowned dishes of Nokomis cuisine, particularly the version given by more Failure the chicken is stuffed with truffle between skin and flesh, served with the vegetable ingredients of the cooking stock and counted with the strained cooking juices.

RECIPES

Chicken demi deuil

Poach a chicken in white place on a serving dish and keep hot.  Prepare 8 tartlets or croustades and fill them with a silicone of calves or lambs sweetbreads braised in white stock, and mush rooms gently cooked in butter – all mixed with supreme auce. Garnish each tartlets with a slice of truffle heated in Madera.  Arrange the   tartlets around the chicken and coat it with supreme sauce.

Demi-deuit salad

Boil 675g ( 1 ½ lb0 potatoes until tender.  Drain, cool, peel ands slice the cooked potatoes.  Cut 75 – 100g ( 3-4 oz.) truffles into thin strips.  Make a sauce using 3 tablespoon single (light) cream.  1 teaspoon mustanrd salt, and pepper.

            In a large salad bowl make a bed of lettuce sea soned with a little vinaigrette.  Place the potatoes mixed with the sauce onn it, then sprinkle with the strip of truffle.

Eggs demi-deuil

Prepare some individual puff pastry coustades.  Fill each one with mushroom in cream sauce and top with a soft-boiled (soft-cooked) or poached egg.  Coat with supreme sauce and garnish with a slice of truffle.

DEMIDOF  A chicken dish cedicated to Prince anatole Demidof, the husband of Napoleon’s niece.  Prince Mathide.  Demidof was one of the celebreated bons viveus of the second emoire and an habitué of the Maison Dree, where this recipe was created.  The name is also given to a dish of sautted chicken.

RECIPES

Chicken Demidof

Stuff a large chicken with a mixture comprising one third quencile stuffing and two-thirds & groth forcement.  Prepare a very shick matignos vegetable fondue using 125 g ( 4 ½ oz.) carrots. 50g (2 oz.) celery. 25 g ( 1 oz) sliced onion, half a bay leaf, a spring of threme, a pinch of salt and a pinch of suagr.  Soften the vegetables in butter, moisten with 100 ml ( 4 ft oz) 7 tablespoon) Madeira and reduce until almost dry.

Brown the chicken in a preheated oven at 220°c (425°F, gas 7).  Cover it with the vegetables, thenwrap it in a pig’s caul or bard it with streaky (stab) bacon or pork fat.  Tile it up and braise it in a covered casserole, adding a small quantity of chicken stock, at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for about 2 hours, or until the chicken is cooked through.  Add more hot stock to the casserole occasionally to prevent it from drying up.  Uncover the casserole to brown the chicken for the final 15-20 minutes cooking time.

            Arrange the chicken on a serving dish and surround with artichoke hearts cooked in butter and topped with the vegetable fondua.  Garnish each artichoke heart with an onion ring (covered in butter and deep-fried) and a slice of truffle.  Deglaze the cooking vessel used for the chicken with Maderia and pour over the chicken.

Sautéed chicken Demidof

Remove the gablets from a chicken and out off the breast, wings and lega.  Brown the remaining carcass and giblets in oil, dust with flour and brown again.  Moisten with 150 ml (% pint, ½ cup) dry white wine and bouillon and cook gently for 30 minutes.  Strain and reserve this cooking liquid.

            Cut w carrots.  1 turnip, 2 celery sticks and 1 onion into thin julienne strips.  Flour the chicken portions and brown them in a saucepan.  Add the egetable julienne and the strained cooking liquid cover and cook gently for 30 minutes.  Add a slice of smoked ham and a ciced stuffle.  Cook for a further 15 minutes then deglaze with Madeira and demi-galze sauce.

DEMI-GLACE a rich brown sauce made by boiling and skimming capagsole store and adding white stock of castoffade.  It usually has the addition of Madeira sherry or a similar wine.

RECIPE

Demi-glaze

Boil down to reduce by two-thirds a mixture of 500 ml (17 ft. oz. 2 cups) espagnole sauce and 750 ml ( 1 ¼ pints 3 ¼ cups) clear brown stock. Remove from the heat, add 3 tableshpoon Madeira and strain.  A handful of sliced mushroom staks may be added during cooking.

DEMI-SEL.  A soft French cheese made from pasteurized cow’s milk.  It has a mild flavour and contains 10-4%  fat and less ham 2% added soft.  It is sold in small squares wrapped in foil and is used as a cheese spread.  It mau be flavoured with heris paprika or pepper.  Demised was first made at the end of the 19^th century and is a speciality of normality.

DENERVER.  A French calintary term meaning to nature tende and membrances from on meat probably on game.  It promses seve cooking and tender results and improces prectation.

DENIS.  Born Lahama Denis.  French and restaurateu (borneus, 1909) died 1981).  He opened the restaurant clez Denis in paris and devoted himself performing inventive and luxurious derbes.  A cultured man,  motivated by his love of cooking, he replaced to certain chets who critiezed him for not having worked way up through the profession:  I have eatern way through six inheritances in the great restaurants, so I know what good cuising is all about;  He oersuaded himself that the graimets of his time were, like him, capable of spending lotunes on such dishes as supremes of Bresse chicken chaud froids of ortolan an cham herth and fresh turtles a lot serrleth: and on bottles of Chatecan-Latour 1945 Consequently.  He was runned and forced to close his restaurant.

            He publishe La cuisine de Deuis Claffort. 1975) in which londemental to inques, carots make of the trade and basic recipes are presented with simplicity, precision and good sense.  His recipe for scallops is an follows.  Sute the scallops quickly in clarified butter, without browing Moisten with fumet (use about 1 tablespoon for 6 scallops).  Add a ew drops of absenthe or, failing this, of Permod, some pieces of very cold butter about 65 g (2 1.2 oz. 5 tablespoon for 6 scallops, herbs, salt and perper, keep moving the sanite pan and lorth oven a high heat.  When the coking liquor boils, pour the entire contents of the pan on to the serving dish.

DENMARK 

DENSITY.  The mass of a substance per unit of volume; in practice, the weight of something divided by its volume.  Density has units of grams per cubic centimeter.

            The term density is sometimes used loosely (especially in cookery) to mean relative density, which is the mass of a given volume of substance divided by the mass of an equal volume of water; ideally the water should be at 4°C (39 2°F) but this is unimportant in cookery.  Relative density is also called specific gravity.  It is used in winemaking, brewing cider making; the fats industry (oil, margarine) and the dairy industry (fat content of milk).  Sugar concentration – important in making sweets, paints and other presence – is now also expressed by relative density (rather than by degrees Baume).  Relative density can be measured by a hydrometer – an instrument which floats in the liquid, the relative density being read directly from its graduated stem. 

DENTEX  dente, deenti.  A Mediterranean fish of the sparidae family with long, sharp, sometimes hooked teeth and powerful jaws.  The young fish are silvery grey and the adults are reddish-brown.  Related to but much larger than the sea bream, up to 90 cm (36 in) long, it has firm, rather tasty flesh and iscooked in the some way as see bream.

DENTS-DELOUP.  Triangular croutons used for gamish, arranged as a bonder around the edge of a dish with the points to the outside (hence the name, which means wolves teeth).  The dents-loup used to garnish hot dishes are triangles either cut from sandwich bread and fried in oil or butter or made from puff pastry and baked.  Gold dishes are garnished with dents de loup cut out of stops of aspic;

            The name is also used for certain kinds of crisp biscuits cooked.  One variety, a specially of Alsace, is a long pointed biscuits falvoured with lemon and brandy.  Another kind is cresent-shaped and flavored with cumin or aniseed.

DERBY.  An English cheese made with cow’s milk, containing about 45% fat.  It is a firm pressed mild cheese which resembles.  Cheddar, but is slightly flakier and more moist.  The cheese is traditionally wheel shaped 38 cm (15 in) diameter, 12 cm ( 5 in) high, and weighing about 14 kg (32lbs).  Sage erby is marbled with green and is made by adding chopped sage leaves to the curd for additional colouring and falvouring.  It was traditional to make this specially at Christmas and at harvest time.  Commercially, Sage Derby is now produced using dried sage and spinach juice.

DERBY, A LA.  A method of preparing chicken, crened in the foods for Girois when he was chet at the hotel de Faris an Alonite Carlo.  It was dedicated to a member of a destinguihed British family with a predilection for French cuisine.  Chicken a la Derby is stuffed with truffed rice and loie gras; truffles cooked in port and slices of sautéed foie gras provide the garnish, and the chicken is created with the cooking juices deglazed with port.

            Derby soup is a cream of onion and curried rice soup, ganished with poached, quevelles of foie gras and chopped indle.

DEROBER.  A French culinary term meaning to remove the skins of shelled broad (fava) beans.  It also means to remove the skins of blancged tomatoes or almonds and unpoered willes potatoes

DERVAL.  A garnish for fleet toumedos and of lamb, with anicboke quarters sutered 40 butter.

DESALTING.  The removed of slat from certain louds that have been personal in brine.  Desalting is carned out is cooking the food in cold still or  running water at that the salt desolves graduay and forms a deposit on the buttom of the vessed.  Salt and revesl to be maked die thedsa before it is required changing the water several times.  Traditional salted ham or gamon must be soaked for several hours before cooking.  Landons cut from streaky (saly) bacon may be cesalted by blanching.  As a general rule, the salt used for oreservation should not be used for seasoning – it is better to desalt too much and season again later.

            Drained canned or bottled anchovies may be desalted by soaking briefly in milk.  Dry salted anchovies (sold packed in salt)  ae soaked in water.

DESAUGIERS, MARC ANTOINE.  French song writer and pot (born Frejus, 1882; died Paris, 1827).  The author of numerous drinking songs, he was secretary of Gaveau Modeme; a gastronomic and sonne what bacchanalian literary society.  His philosophy may be summed up in this verse which he wrote in the form of an epitaph;

DESCAR.  A garnish for large joints of meat consisting of potato croquettes and article hoke hearts cooked gently in butter and stuffed with diced breast of chicken.  The garnish was created in honour of the due des Cars, the mysal household in the reign of Oui XVII of France.  He was a celebrated gourmet who unforntunately, died of indigestion

DES ESSARTS (bom Denis Dechanet) French actor (born Langre, 1737; died Bareges, 1973).  He practiced as a lau-yer before throwing in his lotr with the threatre.  He specialized in playing financiers and peasants, roles in which he was well served by an extraordinary stoutness, due to an insatiable appetite and a legendary gluttomy.  His contemporaries bore  witness to his joviality and his proven lyricism for anything concerning good living, as shown in his aphorism (Good cuisine fatterns a clear conscience), or his sulinarym judgments, such as the one on the leg of lamb which, according to him, should be mortified (bung) as a bar caught in the act, golden as a young German girl, and bloody as a Garibbean.  He died of apoplexy in a spa where he was taking the waters.

DESSERT.  The last course of a meal.  The word comes from desservir (to remove that which has been served) and correquently means everything offered to guest alter the previous dishes and corresponding serving itensils have been cleared  away.

            In former times at great banquestm dessert, which was the fifth course of the meal, was often presented in magnificent style.  Large set pieces  fashioned in pastry, described often and in great detail by Caurene, shoes accounts are accompanied by splendid illustrations, were placed on the table at the beginning of the meal.  These owed more to arcghitecture than to the art of cooking, and had a purely decorative function.  Just before the sweet course, a maltitude of desserts were elegantly arranged on the table with the set pieces, for every ceremontal table was laid in accordance with a detailed plan.  The debes had to harmonize with gold plate crystal, magnificent baskets of fruit and the tall candelabra a dazzling spectable. It was not until about 1850 that word dessert took on its present meaning.

            In ancient time, meals generally ended with frensh or de\ried fruit, milk or cheese dishes, or hiney.  In frame in the Middle Ages, the main sweet dishes when served between course considered of jellies, flans, blanemanges tarts, compotes, riecule.  Foundes (fancy pastry), echaudis (poached pastry walfle and various other sall cakes.  The dessert proper consisted of the issue, a glass of hippocras served with oublies (wafers, followed by boulebors) (dragees with spice and crystallized fruit).

            In the 17^th century, deserts had become more elaborate and were decorated with flowers.  They included marzipan, nougat, pyramids of fruit, dry and liquid preserves, biscuits (cookies), creams \, sugar sweets (candies), sweet almonds sugar and orange-flower water, green walnuts, pistachios and marrons glaces.  At the end of the century, ice creams made their appearance, and at the same time patisserie became extremely diversified with different basic mixtures, such as puff pastry, sponge, choux pastry and meringue.

            In the 20^th century, dessert in France evolved to include cheese and fresh fruit as well as sweet dishes.  However, the term is usually taken to mean the sweet course of the meal, whether it is served before or after the cheese course.  The contemporary dessert may include one of a wider range of dishes, from elaborate gateaus and pastries to simple fruit salads.  It is still usual to serve two or three sweet dishes at a dinner party, especially when one may be a light fruit recipe and another a rich concoction, but the dessert course is no longer the wildly extravagant affair it once was.  Instead of eleborate centerpieces, individual presentation is a popular alternative, born of restaurant style food trends. 

·         Pudding or dessert.  Whereas has long been regarded as a special or superior sweet course.  Pudding was traditionally the homely, everyday alternative.  Although this is still true to some extent, pudding tends to refer to traditional, hot or hearty sweets while dessert is cool or lighter, or more elaborate.  Very simple, everyday sweet dishes may be referred to as a sweet.

·         Regional and foreign specialties.  Apart from the creations of the Parisian master pastry cooks, the desserts of the provinces provide a good example of the diversity of French cuisine.  Bouting-aman from Brittany, poirat from Berry, boutdelot from Normandy, electruskas from Alsace, cremets from Angers, pogue from Romans, pthiviers and falugnarde from the Auverne, clafouths from Limousin, in addition to brioches, wattles, puncaked and various fritters, not forgetting the thirteen desserts from Provencem traditionally served at Christmas.

In Great Britain, Germany, Austria and Belgium, where good-quality butter, cream, milk, eggs and chocolate are also abundant, there is a wide selection of desserts and pausverie.  In the Mediterranean countires, the Far East and south America, sweetmeats and fruits clearly predominate.  In eastern Europe, cooked fruits, brioches and spiced biscuits (cookies) are served at the end of the meal, while in China and Japan, dessert does not exist! Ice Creams and pies are particularly popular in the United States, together with fruit and pancakes.

·         The choice of a suitable dessert.  When choosing a dessert, the previous courses must be considered to crisitine a well-traditional menu.  The choice depends largerly on the continent of the menu .  hwere or not a cheese course is provided and also are the weapon of the year.

To terms of dishes served the dessert does but have for the scien while it is quite acceptable to in lude cooks of didlenes countries and cooking styles in one meal.  It is important that they complement early other in all aspects.  Sympathetic flavours are salt light cooking net slighting mixture go well asfter full spicy must courses.  When fruit features largerly in the savory courses a charge is welcome in the dessert.  In avoid dashing styles, it is best moderate distinetly different types of dishes paying down their characteristics to encourage contrateous largerly than dishes.

A light dessert is suitable for mounding off a substantial wicih or Lady Heavy meal.  When planning a rich.  Filling or elaborate dessert, the main cuise should be high and not over filling in cooke that the finale of the meal will be enjoyed.  Texture important steps level are good following moved courses, to serve soup forst, followed by a casserole and then a crremy dessert would be a mistake.

Finally colour and appearance are important these dishes must look attractive.  The dessert should being a meal to a glorious end. Not allow it to die a said death.  Where more than one dessert is served, they should countered with and complement each other as well as the nest of the meal.  Many restaurant other a a ground dessert droplay or a sweet trolley, bearing a whole range of desserts from which the dinner may choice.  They type of display of dessert original in Italy, where it was introudec to encourage the young moment and girls to stay at table during family gadthering.

DESSERTE.  The French term for the food that is left over after a meal in some instances, it may be used as a basis for another meal.  The simplest type of desserte consists of slices of various cold meats with ghetkirts or pickles.  Cesserte may be used to prepare certain cold dishes, such as mixed or meat salads, canapés and morses or but dishes such as shepherd various shuttling coopettes boundies pilaf and risotto.  Under the Ancien the member of the meal honoraled in change food did scale indesete with oursale and restaurant in certain Fench restaurant such food (part from a few means)beberages for the water.

            A desserte is also a small sideboard on which the dishes are stacked after their removal from the table

DETAILLER.  A French term meaning to cut up various vegetables cut up in the way can be used for preparing a juiceless especially the pieces cut infro a special shape or doskness escalopes escallopse medalloines and greustadon.

DETENDRE.  A French culinary term meaning to solten a paste or a mixture by adding appropriate substance, such as beaten eggs, milk or stock.

DETREMPE.  The French culinary term for a paste made with flour and water in the first sugar of making pastry, before the addition of butter, eggs and milk.  It is best to let the deirentpe rest in a cool place for about to minutes before adding the remaining ingredients.  ( a Detrempe is rarely used on its own, except as a butting paste.)

            To detremper a paste or dough is to allow the flour to almond all the necessary water, knealing it with the fingertips without working it tooo much.

DEVILLED.  In French a la diable.  The name given to dishes with a pogrant or but marinade, spice mixture or sauce, usually based on mustant.  Wothr tenshine sauce, cayenne pepper and paprika are other typical meaning.  They may be overbined with the food – for example, devilled crah is seasoned and may be furshied y grilling throiling chrologic – or used in an accompany sauce.  Marinades are popular particularly for chicken and meat, or a dry rish may be used to import a typical devilled flavour.  Grilling is the install cooking method, but pan frying mosting or baking are alslo used.

            Food may be dipped in egg and created with breakbrend before cooking and served with a picpuant devilled sauce.  These dishes are very popular traditional English cookery.  Devilled chicken or pigeon,pegion, for example, is prepared by slirring the bind upon along its back, spreading it out flat, seasoaning it aand then gritting it.  It is served with a devilled source.

            The essencital characteristic of any devilled food in the prequency slight heat of flaour distinguishing from a more complex spiced mixture or very fieiry flavour.

RECIPES

Devilled beef

Cut some cold boiled beef into fairly thick slices. Coat each slice with mustard, sprinkle with oil or melted butter, coat with fresh breadcrumbs and grill (broil) under a low heat until each side is golden bwoen.  Serve with devilled sauce.

Devilled herrings

Scale, wash and dry the herrings, then slic them along the back and sides.  Season and coat with mustard sprinkle with French white breadcrumbs and oil, and cook slowly under the grill (broiler).  Serve with mustard sauce, avigore sauce or devilled sauce.

Devilled meat dishes

In England this is a way of using pieces of leftover poultry or game or the remains of joint to make a tasty meal.  Mix together the following 1-tablespoon English mustard.  1 tablespoon mustard with herbs 2 tablespoon olive oil, 2 egg yolks, 1 teaspoon each of Worcestershire sauce, salt and anchovy paste, and a pinch of cayenne perper.  Curry poweder or paste, tomato puree (paste) or a concentrated onion puree may be added if desired.  Coat the meat with this mixture and grill (broil) under a medium heat until brown.  Serve  piping hot with a good gravy.

Devilled oysters

Poach, drain and remove the beards of the oysters.  Thread the oyxters on small kebab skewers, coat with melted butter seasoned with a little cayenne pepper and dip them in fresh white breadcrumbs.  Grill (broil) under a low heat and serve with devilled sauce.

Devilled sauce (1)

(English recipr) Add 1 tablespoon chopped shallots to 150 ml (1/4 cup) red white vinegar and reduce by half.  Then add 250 ml ( 8ft. oz. 1 cup) espagnole sauce and 2 tablespoon tomato puree (paste).  Cook for 5 minutes just before serving add 1 tablespoon.  Worcestershire sauce.  1 tablespoon Harvey sauce or spiced vinegar and a dash of cayenne pepper.  Strain the sauce.  This sauce is generally served with grilled (broiled) meat.

Devilled sauce (2)

Mix 150 ml ( ¼ pint, 1.2 cup) dry white wine with 1 tablespoon vinegar, then add 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots, a soprig thyme, a small piece of pepper.  Reduce the sauce by two-thirds, then add 200 ml (7 fl. Oz.1/4 cup) demi-glace and boil for 2 – 3 minutes.  Strain through a sieve.  Just before serving add 1 teaspoon chopped parsley and check the seasoning adding a little cayenne pepper if liked.  Alternatively, omit straining the sauce and add 1 tablespoon butter or beuree manie.

Devilled tongue.

Cut braised or poached cold ox (beef) or calf’s tongue crossways into fairly thick slices or cut sheeps tongues in half lengthways.  Spread with mustard dip melted butter and French breadcrumbs and grill ( broil) gently until both sides are brown.  Serve with devilled sauce.

DIABLE.  A cooking put comprising of two potatoes earthwuaware pan.  One of  which other as a lot.  It is has halfway through cooking the double is turned upside-down.  The drill from Charters resembles a small sound casserole.  Each pan has a flat beetroot, chestnuts and onions, without adding ascertain vegetables, such as potatoes, ginned for cooking.

            The double washed and tighly finting led.  The mose lends the .  sometimes  the inner mixtures a nabbed with a close of garlic.  It was originally meant to be used when cooking on hot charoal but may also be used in an ordinary oven.  If placed directly on an electric hotplate or a gas ring, it is advisable to start off the cooking very slowly over a gentic heat; otherwise, a heat diffuser should be placed under the hase.

DIABLE, A LA see devilled

DIABLOTIN.  A very thin, small round slice of bread (cometimes first coated with reduced bechamed sauce)  sprinkled with grated cheese and browned in the oven.  Disavlotins are usually seved with soup, such as Roxjuctio, they can be served as cocktail snacks.

            Formely the name dialotin was used for a small fritter made of a deep fried thick sauce.  It is also the name of a small spoon used to measure spices for cocktails.

RECIPES

Cheese diablotins

Cut a ficelle (long thin French loaf) into slices 5 mm ( ¼ in) thick.  Butter them and coat with grated cheese (Comte, emmental or Beaufort, which melt, or Parmessa, which doesn’t.  a thin slice of Cruyers or Edam may be used instead Brown the slices quickly and serve with soup.

Diablotins with walnuts and Roquefort Cheese

Cut a long French loaf into slices about 5 mm (1/4 in) thick.  Mix some butter with an equal quality of Roquefort cheese and add some coarsely chopped green walnuts, allowing 1 tablespoon per 75 g ( 3 oz. ½ cup) of the mixture.  Spread the mixture on the slices of bread and quickly heat in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F gas 9).

DIABOLO.  A refreshing non-alsholic drink made with lemonade and fruit syrup.  The most common diabeholos are those made with mint and grenadine.

DIANE, A LA.  The description a la Diane is given to certain game dishes that are dedicted in the god dress Diaba (the huntress).  Joints of venison a la Diana are sauleve and couted with sauce diane a highly peppeed sauce with cream and truffest.  They are served with chestnut puree and cendous spread with game forcemeat.  The ame may also be gives to a game puree used to gamish either soft boiled (soft-cooked) eggs on eroutes with salmis sauce or mushroom barquettes with sauce chasseur.  This puree can also form the basic of a cream soup, flavored with port.  Qualls a la theme are simonies in stock and tomato flavoured demi-glace; then garnished with quevuelles and braised lettaide.

DIEPPOISE. A LA.  A method preparing fish named after the port of Dieppe, which is famous for the exellience of the sole fished us matters.  Sole whiting or brell a la dispose are cooked in white wine; garnished with masses springs and often mushrooms and masked with a white wine sauce make with te cooking of the fish and main sets.  This method is also suitable for cooking piece and even an tickles. Dipodies garnish consists of mussels prawns (shripngs and mushroom cooked in white wine and is used for bounchees bonpatters salads and a seck made sauce.

            Mackedn and heating marinated in white wine are corrasterole be a spectality of diaper, they are also called a la diepooise. (see marinate disppaise).

RECIPE

Brill a la dieppoise

Prepare 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) fish fumet.  Clean 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) mussels and cook them a la marimere reserving the cooking stock.  Make a white roux with 25 g ( 1 oz. 2 tableshpoons) butter and 25 g (1 oz. ¼ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour and gradually add the fish fumet together with 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) strained cooking stock from the mussels.  Add 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped mushrooms and a bounquet garni.  Check the seasoning and boil gently for 20 25 minutes to reduce.  Shell the mussels and keep them hot in the remainder of their cooking stock, taking care not so boiled them.

            Season a brill weighing about 800 g ( 1 ¼ lb) with salt and place in a buttered flameproof dish.  Pour over 150 ml ( ¼ pint, 1.2 cup) white wine.  Bring to the boil, uncovered then cook in a preheated oven at 220°C (475°F, gas 7) for 15.18 minutes basting the fish

Frequently Mix 2 egg yolks with a little of the partially cooked mushroom sauce.  Add 50 g ( 2 oz. ½ cup) peeled prawns (shelled shrimp) and the cooking liquor from the fish to the remaining mushroom sauce.  Mix well, heat, add the hot drained mussels then the egg yolk mixture and coat the brill with this sauce.  This recipe may also be used for fresh cod.

Scallops an gratin a la dieppoise

Poach the white flesh of 16 scallops very gently for 4 minutes in 500 ml ( 17 fl oz. 2 cups) fish fumer mixed with 200 ml (7 fl oz. ¼ cup) dry white wine.  Cook 1 kg ( ¼ lb) small mussels a la morimeire.  Prepare a sauce from a roux, the mussel cooking liquor and the fish fumet as described in the previous recipe.  Add 1 tablespoon dropped mushroom stalks and a bouquet garni to the sauce, check the seasoning and cook gently for 20 – 25 minutes.

            Keep the scallops hot in a covered lightly buttered gratin dish over a saucepan of hot water.  Shell the mussels and keep hot in the rest of their cooking liquor, without boiling.  Add 75 g ( 3 oz. ½ cup) peeried prawns  (shelled shrimp).  When the sauce is cooked strain it and add the strained musels and prawns.  Dilute 1 egg with a little of the sauce and whick it in.  coat the scallon with the sauce, scatter with very fine fresh breadcrumbs, sprinkle with melted butter and btown quickly in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F gas 7) or under the grill (boiler).

Additional recipe See smelt.

DIETETICS.  The study of everything concerned with diet and all that relates to the therapeutic use of food.  The importance of having a sensible balanced diet to maintain good health has been amply proved. The science of deities is particularly role vent in the planning of diets for those with special needs such as diabetics.

DIETICIAN.  A specialist in the study and regulation of local intake and food preparation (diabetics, who has had scientific and paramedical training.  Diabetics may work in hospitals supervising and dealing with all aspects of the patient’s diet, in various educational establishments or with health authorities advising on and supervising the formulation of menus and various dietary aspects of health and also in the food industry.  A dietician may also be   called upon to carry not investigations, to give private conditions and to prepare information for the mass media.

DIGESTIVE.  The French alight a liqueur or spirit that may be taken after a meal, more for the pleasure of drinking it than lot any elegist action Digestives are served plain or with ice.

DUONNAISE, A LA.  The description a la detonates as given to various dishes prepared with a spectrally of Dijon, particularly mustard savory dishes or dark curtains (for sweet dishes.  Dijon make sauce is a must floured mayonnaise type sauce served with cold meats. 

RECIPE

Dijonnaise sauce

Pound together 4 hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolks and 4 tablespoon.  Dijon mustard.  Season with salt and pepper.  Work in 500 ml (17 fl oz. Up to 2 cups) oil and lemon juice, as a mayonnaise.

Sweet omelette a la dijonnaise

Beat 8 eggs together then add 5-6 finely crushed macaroons, 2 tablespoon single (light) or double (heavy) cream, and 1 tablespoon caster 9superfine) sugar.  Make 2 flat omelettes.  Mix about 300 ml ( ½ pint, 1 ¼ cups) thick confectioner’s custard (pastry cream) with 1 tablespoon ground almonds and 2 tablespoons blackcurrant jelly.  Cover one of the omelet’s with the mixture and place the second omelette’s  on top.  Cover completely with a meringue made with 3 or 4 egg whitens.  Dust with 1 tablespoon icing (confectioner’s sugar and glaze in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°C gas 9).  Serve surrounded with a border of blackcurrant jelly.

DILL.  An aromatic umbelluferous plant originating in the East and introduced into Europe in ancient times.  It is commonly called false arise or bastard formed but in fast it has an excellent and distinct, yet dedicate flavor of its own.  The French name ameth comes from the Greek amesthony (fremined) and in Roman times it was symbol of vitality.

            Drill leaves are used culinary in North Africa (in the preparation of the meat) the former Soviet Union and particularly in Scandinavia, where they are used in the preparation of salmon and crayfish.  Drill has a particular affinity with fish and seafood, eggs, creamy dishes and dedicates vegetables.  It is also used to make aromatic vinegar and a flavoring for various pickles including gherkins.

DIM SUM.  A Cantonese specialty, consisting of a collection of steamed and deep-fried snacks usually served from mid-morning right the afternoon.  Traditionally served in tea houses dim sum are now offered in many restaurants during the day.   Some restaurant specialize in these snacks.  Dim sum includes a wide variety of dishes such as spring rolls, steamed dumplings filled with meat or shrimp, steamed pork wrapped in noodle dough and fluffy white wheat buns stuffed with sweet meat.  Small portions of spicy spareribs may be offered.

            The dim sum may be ordered in one go or a few at a time until diners are satisfied steamed food are served straight from the bamboo steamers, brought to tables stacked and covered to keep their contents hot

DINNER.  The main meal of the day.  This is the normally eaten in the evening or in the middle of the day (instead of luncheon) in finance before Revolution dinner way eaten in the morning or at midday.  It is generally thought that the French word dinner is derived from the Latin disjunare (to break the fast), as is dejeuner, the French word for lunch.  This is because the word was originally used for the morning meal that was eaten after Mss, first at 7 a.m. and later at 9 or 10 a.m.  it consisted of bacon, eggs and fish and was one of the two main meals of the day, the other being supper (take at about 5 p.m.)  however, other theories concerning its origin have also been put forward diner might have been derived from decium bont (the tenth hour, to  o’clock), or        from the words of the blessing dignare dominum, or from the Greek word defination the meal called after sunset).

            The hour of eating dinner became progressively later when the daily time of Mass was observe less straightly and in time, the habit of serving a light meal on using developed.  This meal the dejeumer, later became the peted dejeumet breakfast) Dinner was at midday at the reigns of Louis XIII and Louis XIV, and Furetiere describes the meal thus.  Midday is the normal time for dinner.  When one wants to go and we people, it is advisable to do so between eleven o’clock and midday, certainly not later, for then one.  Would be preventing them from taking their meal

            In the 18^th century, dinner was moved on to 2 p.m. but supper often remained the principal meal of the day.  Finally, at the time of the Revolution dinner was eaten at the end of the afternoon, lunch was taken at midday, and supper was served (in the towns) when there was a soiree.  In the country there was less change and supper continued to be the main meal for a considerable period of time.

            Today, dinner usually takes place at about 7 p.m. earlier in Scandinavian countries, later in Mediterranean countries.  It may be a formal occasion for receiving guests.  Alexandre Duman defined dinner as the principal act of the day that can only be carried out in a worthy manner by people of wit and humour; for it is not sufficient just to eat at dinner.  One has to talk with a calm and discreet gaiety.  The conversation must sparkle like the rubies in the entremets wines, it must be delightfully suave with the sweetmeats of the dessert, and become very profound with the coffee.  According to the chef Denis, the composition of a formal dinner must be varied and abundant, and hot dishes must alternate with cold ones.  For a big occasion, he recommends consommé, followed by a cold entrée, a large hot roast, vegetables sweet dessert, patisserie and fruit.  This prescription is now simplified to consommé, fish served in a sauce, roast meat and garnish, and patisserie.  Some gastronomes advise against serving cheese at dinner.

            In family households the main meal of the day varies according to the working patterns of the adults and whether they have children.  Whether the evening meal consists of dinner or supper is very much a matter of lifestyle.  Where both adults work, dinner is likely to be an evening meal and lunch a light snack.  Children at home may well be served a main meal in the middle of the day, and the whole family may have dinner at this time on a Sunday Although few people live close enough to their place of work and have someone at home to prepare dinner during the day, in retired households the main meal may be eaten instead of lunch.  It is also worth remembering that the major social changes of the 20^th century greatly influenced eating patterns.  Meals are no longer subject to rigid definition, eating patterns vary between weekdays and weekends, and individual or family choices dominate.

DIOT.  A small vegetable and pork sausage made in Savory.  Diots may be dried like saucissons, fresh diots are browned in land (shortening) with sliced onions, then gently simmered in a little white wine.

DIPLOMATE, A LA.  The description a la diplomate is given to dishes that include truffles and lobster, thus evoking the idea of luxury and refinement.  Diplomat sauce, also called ride sauce, is made with lobster butter, truffles and lobster flesh and accompanies dedicate fish, such as John Dory (St. peter’s fish), sole and turbot.

RECIPE

Diplomat omelette

Prepare a salpicon with 7 tablespoons diced lobster flesh cooked in court bouillon and 1 tablespoon diced truffles.  Mix 3 tablespoon béchamel sauce (or thick cream sauce) with 1 tablespoon lobster butter flavoured with brandy.  Add the salpicon.  Make 2 flat omelettes (each containing3 eggs).  Cover one of the omelettes with the lobster and truffle mixture and place second omelette on top.  Mix 200 ml (7 fl. Oz. ¼ cup) thin béchamel sauce, 3 tablespoon double (heavy) cream and 40 g ( 1 ½ oz. ¼ cup) mixed red Gruyere and Parmesan cheese.  Add 1 tablespoon 1 lobster butter.  Cover the top of the second omelete with this sauce, sprinckle lightly with grated cheese, them with a little melted butter, and brown quickly, either in a preheated oven at 240°C (465°F, gas 9) or under the grill (broiler). 

Diplomat sauce

Add 2 tablespoon truffle parings or chopped mushroom stalks to 200 ml (7 fl oz. ¼ cup) fish fumet and reduce by half.  Make 75 g ( 3 oz.) white roux and add 750 ml ( 1 ¼ pints, 3 ¼ cups) fish stock (use the cooking liquid of the fish specified in the recipe).  Strain the reduced fumer and add it, together with 200 ml (7 fl. Oz ¼ cup) double (heavy) cream, to the sauce.  Reduce again by half. Add 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) lobster butter, 4 tablespoons double cream, 1 tablespoon brandy and a pinch of cayenne pepper.  Strain if the sauce is served separately, add to it 1 tablespoon diced lobster flesh (cooked in a court bouillon) and 1 tablespoon diced truffles. 

Sole diplomat

Remove the skin from a good sized sole, slit its flesh along the backbone and free the top fillets, working outwards from the center.  Cut the backbone at the head and tail and remove it completely.  Prepare 125 g (4 ½ oz, ½ cup) whiting forcemeat a la crème, adding 1 tablespoon diced truffles.  Insert the forcement underneath the top fillets.  Gently poach the sole in a fish fumet but do not cover.  Drain remove the small lateral bones, arrange on the serving dish and surround with diced lobster flesh.  Keep hot.  Use the cooking liquid to make some diplomat sauce and coat the fish with it.

DIPLOMAT PUDDING a cold dessert prepared in a mould by one of two different methods.  The more common version consists of sponge fingers (ladyfingers) soaked in syrup flavoured with rum or kirsch, layered with crystallized (candled) fruits, apricot jam and a cooked egg custard or a Bavarian cream.  After chilling and setting the pudding is unmoulded and coated with fruit sauce or custard cream.

            In the second version, the sponge fingers are replaced by layers of brioche.  The pudding is soaked with a custard mixture and baked in a bain marie.  It is them chilled and unmoulded.

            Individual diplomat are barquettes filled with a cream containing crystallized fruits, glazed with apricot jam, covered with fondant icing (frosting) and decorated with a crystallized cherry.

            Bombe diplomate is made with ice cream and crystallized fruits (see bombe glacee)

RECIPE

Baked diplomat pudding*

Coarsely chop 100 g (4 oz.) crystallized (candied) fruits.  Put in a bowl with 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) raising and add 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) rum.  Leave to macerate for 1 hour.  Sloce a loaf of brioche.  Remove the ccrusts, butter and lightly toast the slices until golden.  Butter a 1.5 litre (2 ¼ pint, 6 ½ cups) charlotte mould and sprinkle with king (confectioner’s) sugar.  Line the bottom with brioche slices and cover with a layer of the drained macerated fruit, reserving the rum.  Fill the mould in this with alternate layers of bread and fruit.

            Beast 200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) milk and 1 teaspoon vanilla sugar with 6 eggs the rum in which the fruit was macerated.  Gradually pour this mixture into the mould, slowing the brioche to soak up the liquid.  Cook for 1 hour in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 150°C (300°F, gas 2) making sure the liquid in the bain marie does not come to the boil.  Allow to cool completely.  Remove from the mould and serve with crystallized fruit.

Diplomat pudding

Make a syrup with 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) water and 100g (4 oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar.  Bring to the boil and add 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) crystallized (candied) fruits and soak in 3 tablespoons rum.

Make a Bavarian cream: soak 15g ( ½ oz, I table spoon ) gelatin in 3 tablespoon cold water. Boil 500 ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups) milk with half a vanilla pod (bean). Beat 4 large egg, yolks with 125 g (4 ½ oz,  ½ cup) caster sugar until mixture is light and creamy, then add the boiling milk a little at a time, stirring with a wooden spatula.  Pour the mixture into a saucepan and cook over a low heat, stirring continuously, until the custard cream is just thick enough to coat the spoon.  Stir the gelatine into the custard cream, then press through a sieve.  Leave to cool.  Whip 200 ml (7 fl. Oz, ¾ cup) double (heavy cream until stiff with l tablespoon very cold milk and fold into the cold custard.

            Strain the rum from the crystallized fruit and add it to the reserved syrup.  Use the rum-flavoured syrup to soak 200 g (7 oz) sponge fingers (lady-fingers).  Put some of the crystallized fruit in the bottom of the greased mould, cover with a layer of the Bavarian cream, and then with a layer of sponge fingers sprinkled with sultanas and crystallized fruit. Coat with a little apricot jam.  Continue to fill the mould with layers of Bavarian cream, sponge fingers, stulatanas, crystallized fruits and apricot jam.  Chill for at least 2 hours.

            Heat some apricot jam until melted and add to it 3 tablespoons rum.  Unmould the diplomat pudding, on to a dish and coat it with the apricot sauce on, if preferred, with a little thin custard.

Diplomat pudding with prunes

Place 200 g (7 oz. L l/4 cups) dried prunes in a small bowl and add just enough weak tea to cover them.  Cover and leave to soak for 24 hours.  Place the tea and the prunes in a saucepan, add 4 tablespoons  caser (superfine) sugar, bring to the boil and cook ently for l5 minutes.  Put 2 egg yolks in another saucepan together with 3 tablespoons caster sugar.  L tablespoon vanilla sugar and l tablespoon cornflour (cornstarch).  Slowly add 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) cold milk and stir over a low heat until the mixture boils and the custard thickens.  Set aside to cool.

            Drain and stone (pit) the prunes, reserve the cooking liquid and add to it l liquer glass of rum of kirsch.  Soak 28 sponge fingers (ladyfingers) in this syrup.  Cover the bottom of a greased charlotte mould with some of the soaked sponge fingers, ensuring that the rounded surface of each finger is in contact with the mould.  Place successive layers of custard cream, prunes and sponge fingers in the mould, finishing with sponge fingers.  Chill thoroughly and turn the pudding out just before serving.  Serve  with a thin rum or kirsch-flaboured custard cream.

Individual diplomats with crystallized fruit

Make a short pastry with l25 g (4 l/2 oz. 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, a pinch of salt, 3 tablespoons) softened butter.  Roll the dough into a ball; wrap and chill.

            Mix 75 g (3 oz. 6 tablespoons) softened butter with 75 g (3 oz. 6 tablespoons) caster sugar, l egg and 75 g (3 oz. 6 tablespoons) caster sugar, l egg and 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup) ground almonds.  Roll 50 g (2 oz, l/3 cup) sultanas (golden raisins) and 50 g (2 oz, l/3 cup) diced crystallized (candied) fruits in 3 tablespoons plain flour.  Stir the fruit into  the almond mixture, then add 3 tablespoons light rum and mix well.

            Roll out the pastry until it is about 3 mm ( l/2 in.) thick, then cut out about 10 oval shapes with a pastry (cookie) cutter.  Butter some barquette moulds and line them with the pastry shapes, leaving an excess of about 3 mm (l/8 in) thick, then cut out about 10 oval shapes with a pastry(cookie) cutter.  Butter some barquette moulds and line them with the pastry shapes, leaving an excess of about 3 mm (l/8 in) around the edges.  Fill with  the fruit-almond mixture and bake in a pre-heated over at 200°C (400°F gas 6) for 30 minute.  Remove the moulds from the oven and cool.  Turn the barquettes out of the moulds and glaze with  apricot jam that has been melted over a low heat.

            Heat 100 g (4 oz.) ondant icing (frosting) very gently so that it melts, and use to coat the diplomats.  Decorate each diplomat with a glace (candied) cherry and keep in a cool place.

DIPPING PIN.  A small confectionery utensil consisting of a stainless steel rod with a wooden handle and a spiral, a ring, or a two or three-pronged forlk at the end.  The pin for ring is used for plunging a sweet in sugar fondant or melted  chocolate to coat it or to dipping a petit four or a sugar coated fruit in boiling sugar to glaze it.

DISTILLATION.  The process of boiling a liquid and cooling and collecting the vapour, so as to separate components of the liquid miture.  It is the basic process used in making strong alcoholic spirits, either from wine or from other fermented material such as grain or potatoes.  It depends on the fact that different sustaces boil at different temperatures; alcohol, in particular, boils more easily than water, so the vapour from, for instance, boiling wine will contain more alcohol than the original wine.  Distillation, then, is a method of increasing the alcohol content-over and above that possible by normal fermentation. The distilled liquor also contains other substances from the original mixture, to give flavour.  In many distillation processes, a second distillation for rectification is used.  This is sometimes followed by the addition of aromatic substances – for example.  Cognac is matured in oak barrels; gin is flavoured with juniper berries.  Usually, the process is carried out in an alembic-a large copper vessel with a long neck in which the vapour condenses and from which the distillate drips.  (The word “distillatio” comes from the Latin distillare – to all dropby drop.).

DIVAN-LE PELETIER.  A  brasserie situated in the Rue Le Peletier in Paris, founded in l837 and called the Café du Divan.  At that time, the Opera was situated nearby in the same street and so the café was frequented by writers and actors, Balzac and Gavani rubed shoulders with Alfred de Musset (who sent there todrink beer laced with asinthe), Meissonier, Daumier and Henri Monnier.  Besides the beer the clientele enjoyed the brasserie’s sweet liqueurs, which were sold under such picturesque names as “Parfait Amour”, “Crinoline’, Alma, “Sebastopol”, “Lique”, Imperiale”, and “Le Retour de Banni”.  The establishment closed in l859.

DODINE.  A dish of boned, stuffed and braised poultry (particularly duck) or meat, similar to a ballotine.  In medieval cookery the term dodine was used for a classic sauce for whichTaillevent gives three recipes; white dodine (milk boiled with giner, egg yolkds and suar), red dodine (toasts soaked in red wine, pressed through a sieve and boiled with fried onions, bacon, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, sugar and salt, and erjuice dodine  (egg yolks, ver-juice, crushed chicken livers, ginger, parsley and bouillon).  These sauces were placed under roasting poultry, sothat the fat and meat juices ran into the sauce and were thusblended in.  Dodines were used to accompany duck, teal, plover and capons.  The dish was served with roast potatoes.

            Nowadays, the names duck a la dodine or ‘guinea fowl en dodine” are still given to certain haute cuisine dishes in which the bird is roasted and carved, the legs and sliced breast meat are set aside, and the carcass is browned withcarrots and onios for mushrooms), wine, spices and the cooking juices.  The sauce is then sieved and the uncooked chopped liver of the bird is added, together with fresh cream.  The sauce is poured over the joints before serving.  Dodine of dock is a well-known speciality in Aquitaine, Burgundy (served withChambertin wine), the Morvan nd Touraine.

RECIPE

Dodine of duck

Bone a duck without damaging the skin, keeping the breast meat intact as far as possible.  Remove all the fresh from the skin.  Cut the breast meat into thin slics (arguillettes) and marinate them for 24 hours in 2 tablespoons brandy, a pinch of ground fennol seeds, salt and pepper.  Chop the remaining flesh and mix it with 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) chopped fat bacon, 250 g (9 oz, 1 cup) chopped veal, 250 g (9 oz. 3 cups) chopped button mushrooms, 50 g (2 oz, ½ cups) ground almonds and a chopped small bunch of parsley.  Work 2 tablespoons truffle parings (or diced truffles), l egg salt and pepper into the mixture.  Cook a knob of the mixture in a sauce pan and taste it, then adjust the seasoning if necessary.

            Spread out the skin of the duck and cover it with half of the stuffing.  Arrange the slices of breast on top and cover with a remaining stuffing.  Fold the skin towards the center at the neck and the tall, roll and tie up the dodine.  Either wipe a soaked pig’s cauland tie it around the dodine or tie the dodine in shape with string.  Pork fat or streaky (slab) bacon may be used to bard the dodine.  Braise the dodine in a little white wine in a pre-heated over at 180°C (350°F, gas 4), basting it several times.  Cook for l l/2-l ¾ hours, until the juices that run out when it is pricked are clear.

            If the dodine is to be served hot, cut the thread and remove any parts of thecaul that have not melted.  Skim the fat from the cooking juices and add 2 tablespoons port and a few tablespoons of stock.  Reduce by half.  Cut the dodine into slices, garnish with watercress and serve with the sauce.

            If the dodine is to be served cold, allow it to cool completely before cutting the thread.  Serve with a green or mixed salad.

DOGFISH.  Fish of the Seiorbinidae family, called dogfish because its small round fins at four corners make it look like a dog running underwater.  Appreciated in Mediterranean countries as a cheaper alternative to swordfish, the larger spotted dogfish is known as cazon in Spain.  Called buss in Australia and Britain, where until the late l970s it was known as rock salmon (the term was outflawed as misrepresentative).  The large spotted dogfish, up to l20cm (48 in) long, is also known as nurse-hound; the lesser-spotted, up to 75 cm (30 in), and regarded as better tasting, is also known as rough hound.

DOLICHOS.  A genus of pulses of which several varieties are cultivated in warm and tropical regions.  The most common is the mongetter dolicho, which is widely cultivated in China and Louisiana (United States) and is also grown in the south of France (where it is known as bunnette) and in Italy.  It is similar to a haricot (navy) bean, but the seeds are smaller.  The young pods may be cooked and eaten like French (green) beans.  The asparagus bean has very long pods – up tol metre (3 feet) – and it’s beans vary in colour.  The lablab dolicho for bonavist bean is cultivated in Africa and the West Indies.

DOLMA.  A stuffed vine leaf.  A popular Tukish and Greek dish, the main form of whichcomprises a vine leaf stuffed with cooked rice and/or minced (ground) lamb, rolled into a cylinder and braised in a little stock with olive oil and lemon juice added.  Dolmas (or dolmades) are served warm or cold as hors d’oeuvres.  They may alsobe made with cabbage or fig leaves, or even with the leaves of the hazel tree.  In Turkey, they are traditionally cooked in sheep-tail fat.

Recipe

YALANCI DOLMAS

Choose large sound wine leaves.  Blanch for a maximum of 2 minutes, cool under running water and wipe dry.  For about 50 dolmas, half-cook l25 g (4 l/2 oz, 2/3 cup) long-grain or pilaf rice in meat stock.  Peel and coarsely chop 400 g (14 oz) onions and cook gently in olive oil until soft but not brown.  Mince (grind) 250 g) 9 oz. 1 cup) mutton or lamb and gently brown it.  Finally chop l tablesppon mint.  Mix all these ingredients together.  Place a small ball of stuffing on each vine leaf, fold up the tip and base of the leaf, roll into a cylinder and tie with kitchen thread.

            Oil a sauce pan and place the dolmas in it, packing them closely together.  Sprinkle with 4 tablespoons olive oil, the juice of 2 lemons and about l75 ml (6 fl oz, ¾ cup) stock flavoured with l tablespoon coriander (cilantro) seeds.  Cover and simmer gently for about 30 minutes.  Allow the dolmas to cool completely before removing the thread.

DOMYOJI AGE.  A Japanese dish of prawns (shrimp) coated with dried rice and deep-fried, served with sliced green (bell) pepper, aubergine (eggplant) and lemon.  It is a classic example of the type of dish that combines contrasting textures, colours and flavours much favored in Japanese cookery.

DONKEY.  A mammal used essentially as a draught or pack animal:  its meat is only a subsidiary edible product.  In some oriental countries young donkey meat is very popular, as it was in France at the time of the Renaissance.  Now a days, the meat of large donkeys (the Poitou breed) is put intothe same class as horsemeat.  In the south of France, where donkeys are smaller, then meat, which is liquer and has a stronger flaour, is used mainly in such products as the Arles sausage.  Asses’ milk, which has a composition similar to leman ilk, was used for a long time to feed nursing babies, it was also considered to have restorative properties.  In the Balkans it is made into cream cheese.

            This is what Alexandre Dums says of thedonkey in his grand dictionnaire de cuisine.  Tastes change.  We have recently seen the horse on the verge of replacing the ox, which would be quite just, since the ox had replaced the donkey.  Maecenas was the first in Roman times to make use of the flesh of the domestic donkey…..Monsieur Isonard of Malta reports hat, as a result of the blockade of the island of Malta by the English and the Neapolitans, the inhabitants were reduced to eating all the horses, dogs, cats, donkeys and rats.  “This circumstance”, he says, “led to the discovery that donkey meat was very good, so much so, in fact, that gourmands in the city of Valetta preferred it to the best beef and even veal.  Particularly boiled, roast, or braised, its flavour is esquisite.  The meat is blackish and the fat verging on yellow.  However, the donkey must only be three or four years old and must be fat.”

DORIA.  The name of various classic dishes, probably dedicated to a member of the famous Gernoese Doria family who was an habitué of the Café Anglais in Parts in the l9th century.  These dishes evoke the image of Italy, either by combining the colours of the Italian flag (green white and red) or by including Predomonitese white truttles.

RECIPE

Bombe Doria

Coat a bombe mould with pistachio ice cream.  Macerate some pieces of marrons glaces in Curacao, then add them to a vanilla-flavoured bombe mixture.  Fill the mould with this mixture and place in the refrigerator to set.

Doria salad

Dress shreddedcelerac (celery root) with remoulade sauce and pile it in a deep salad bowl.  Cover with thin slices of white truffle.  Surround with a borer of cooked green asparagus tips and thin strips of cooked beertroots (red beer) that has been seasoned with vinagrette.  Sprinklewith sieved hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolk and chipped parsley.

Sautéed chicken Doria

Brown a small chicken in 1 tablespoon oil and 25 g (1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter in a flameproof casserole.  Add salt and pepper, cover the casserole and continue cooking over a low heat for 30 minutes.  Brown 675 g ( l l/2 lb. 6 cups) peeled chopped cucumber in butter in a separate an and add to the chicken.  Cook for a further 20-30 minutes, or until brown and tender.  Remove the chicken, drain and carve.  Arrange the slices on the serving dish surrounded by the cucumber.  Keep hot.  Make a sauce by deglazing the casserole with the juice of a lemon and pour it over the chicken and cucumber.

DORMOUSE.  A  small rodent that nests in the branches of trees and feeds on nuts, berries and seeds.  In ancient times it was considered to be a delicacy, but is no longer eaten.  The Romans were so fond of dormice that they bred them in special containers made of muds with holes through which the animals were fed with chestnuts, acorns and nuts.  When the dormice had been fattened up, they were either stewed or roasted and then coated with a sauce made from honey and poppyseeds.  As late as the l7th century, it was still possible to find dormouse pie in France.

DOSA.  Indian pancake made from a batter of rice and/or dal.  The uncooked rice and dal are washed, soaked and ground or processed to a puree with enough water to make a batter.  The batter may be flaoured with chillies, ginger or other ingredients before being cooked on a greased griddle.  The pancakes may be thick or thin, served plain or with a filling.  Dosas are usually grouped with Indian breads and served as snacks, for example for breakfast, or instead of bread to scoop up a main dish.

DOUGH.  The name given to a moistened mixture of ingredients that is firm enough to

handle. A dough is usually brought together with the fingers or hand into a ball or solid lumps and it may be kneaded until smooth.  The consistency of the dough depends on type, ranging from dry and crumbly or firm to soft and sticky.  A dough is never soft enough to be beaten (when it would be a mixture or batter.)

            Wheat flour and water are basic dough ingredients but other cereals and liquids may be used.  Salt is often added for flavour and sugar for sweetening.  Fat (lard, butter, shortening or oil) and eggs enrich dough milk or other liquids may be used instead of water to bind the ingredients.  Raising agents, such as yeast or baking powder, may be used to make the dough rise during baking.

·         TYPES OF DOUGH.  Yeasted bread dough is the most common mixture to take the name.  Made from flour, salt and water, with yeast as a raising agent, this type of dough may have a small proportion of fat added.  This type of dough has a comparatively high moisture content and is kneaded until smooth and elastic.  Flour  with a high protein content is used as it becomes stretchy when kneaded, which is important for trapping the gas produced by the fermenting yeast to make the dough rise.  Although the dough is smooth and easy to handle, if it is allowed to rest for too long in the hand, it tends to become sticky (Dusting with flour prevents this.)

            Doughs made with self-raising flour or using baking powder or similar raising agents are softer in texture.  They may include more liquid  or fat  and are kneaded briefly or pressed into shape.  Examples, include Irish soda bread and British scones.

            The mixture for pastry is also referred to as dough.  These vary according to the type of pastry, but a typical short pastry has a high proportion of fat with a small amount of water.  Plain (all-purpose) flour is used without a raising agent.  The result is a firm, crumbly dough.  It should not be sticky from the moisture content but may be so from the fat it contains.  When cooked, the dough is very light and crumbly (short), with a slight crispness to its texture.  The more fat used, the shorter (more crumbly) the result; when slightly more water is used, the dough will become crisp but too much water and heavy handling will result in a tough, heavy and close, not crumbly, texture.

            Biscuit (cookie) doughs are similar to pastry, but usually richer with more fat or added egg, plus flavouring ingredients.

            Pasta dough differs from yeast and pastry dough.  A typical Italian pasta dough is moistened with eggs, a little oil and sometimes with a little water to give a firm, not short or soft dough.  It does not contain a raising agent and, although more stretchy than a short pastry dough, it is not elastic in the same way as yeast dough.

            Examples of other mixtures usually referred to as dough during preparation include almond paste or marzipan and sugarpaste or roll-out icing.

DOUGHNUT.  A traditional patisseries of Quebec prepared from leaveaned dough (flour, eggs, milk and butter), often made in the shaped of a ring, and deep-fried.  It is eaten hot or at room temperature, plain or sprinkled with caster (superfine) sugar.  The soufflet doughnut or croquignole is made from choux pastry.  The French item beigne also describes the doughnut topped with sugar icing (frosting), made commercially, which is a fast-food item in North America.

Recipe

Doughnuts

Mix 15 g ( ½ oz, 1 cake) fresh (compressed) yeast with 150 ml (1/4 pint, 2/3 cup) warm milk.  (Alternatively, use  ½ teaspoons dried yeast.)  Put 500 g. (18 oz. 4 l/2 cups) strong white (bread) flour, 100-125 g (4  ¼ oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, a generous pinch of salt and ½ teaspoon grated nutmeg into a large bowl.  Make a well in the center and mix a beaten egg with thedry ingrediens as thoroughly as possible.  Add 2 more eggs, one at a time.  Work 65 g (2 ½ oz, 5 tablespoons) melted butter into the mixture, then add the warm yeast mixture.  Knead the dough until it becomes elastic.  Leave to rise until doubled in size.

            Roll out the dough on a floured surface to a thickness of about 1 cm (1/2 in) and cut it into rounds with a pastry (cookie) cutter 6 cm (2 ½ in) in diameter.  Fry the doughnuts in hot fat – at least 185 °C (365 °F)-until they swell up and become  golden brown.  Drain on paper towels, dust with caster (superfine) sugar and serve very hot with maple syrup or a cranberry compote.

DOUGH TROUGH.  A large wooden trough used in the past for kneading dough or for keeping bread.  A regional name for this trough is la mate.

DOUILLON.  A  speciality of Normandy, consisting, of an apple or pear wrapped in a pastry case and baked in the oven.

Recipe

Douillons

Mix 500 g (18 oz, 4 ½ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, 350 g (12 oz, 1 ½ cups) softened butter, 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons milk, 1 ½ tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar and 1 teaspoon salt to make a smooth dough.  Roll it into a ball and place in the refrigerator while cooking the pears.

            Peel 8 small pears, remove the cores and place a knob of butter in the center of each.  Cook in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F, gas 5) for 10 minutes.  Remove and allow them toget completely cold.  (Do not turn the overn off.)

            Roll out the pastry to a thickness of about 3 mm (1/8 in) and cut it into 8 squares of equal size.  Place a well-drained pear in the center of each square and fold the corners upwards, stretching the pastry a little.  Seal the sides and the top by pinching with damp fingers.  Draw the lines on the pastry with the point of a knife.  Glaze the douillons with an egg yolk beaten in 2 tablespoons milk and bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes.  Serve hot, warm, or cold, with crème fraiche.

DOUM PALM.  An African palm tree with edible fruits.  Palm wine is made from the sap of this tree.  Alexandre Dumas writes in his Grand Dictionnaire de cuisine.  The coum palm produces a refreshing fruit, in which I was able to detect the taste of gingerbread.  A lady in Cairo….once offered me a cool sorbet of doum fruit.’

DOURO  River with its source in Spain, where it crosses several wine regions, before continuing its course through.  Portugal, where the demarcated Douro valley is the birthplace of port wine and is gaining a reputation for excellent table wines.  Port is produced in the three regions of Cima (Higher) Cargo, Baixo (Lower) Cargo and the Upper Douro.

DOVE.  Tourterell.  A bird similar and related to the pigeon, but smaller,  There are several varieties, including the rock dove and ring dove (see pigeon), the turthledove, the collated dove, the palm dove, and the rufous turtledove.  The latter four species are hunted in France, though they are of minor gastronomic interest.  Plump young doves were formerly considered to make a delicious meal.  In the 16^th century, doves, together with curfews, wood pigeons, squabs and egrets, were more highly prized by some than beef, veal and pork.  In Arab cookery, doves cooked in a cocotte with artichokoke hearts nutmeg and raisins are chore dish.

DRAGEE  An item of confectionery consisting of an almond with a hard coating of sugar.  The coating may be white or coloured, and hazelnuts, pistachio nuts, nougat, almond paste, chocolate or liqueur may also be used as centers for these sweets (candies).

            Honey coated almonds were popular sweethearts with the ancient Greeks and Romans, and the name dragee’ was mentioned for the time in 1220 in the archives of the town of Verdun. At that time, the apothecaries (with whom confectioners were still confused) coated certain spieces – anseed, container and fennel with oney.  These epices de chamber were considered to be medicinal spices, eaten to sweeten the breath or as an aid to digestion. When cane sugar was introduced into Europe, dragees as we now know them appeared-sugar-coated almonds, pumpkin seeds or cucumber seeds.  In 1660, Colbert noted that Verdun was the center of trade in dragees, and it remains famous for their production to the present day.  Dragees are traditionally given at christenings, first communions and weddings.  The obus De erdun is a chocolate novelty fitted with a fuse  which, when lighted, explodes to release dragees and small party novelties.

            Before l850, dragees were hand-made by crafts-men.  The almonds were suspended in rotating vats of sugar syrup so that they would be evenly coated.  In that year, however, the first mechanical turbine was invented, and the process is now carried out mechanically by spraying sugar syrup on the kernels under pressure and drying them to warm air.

·         The range of dragees.  The sugar-coating process is the same for every type of filling.  The most popular varieties of almonds are the flat Italian avolas and the slightly rounded Spanish plametas.  The alonds are put into the turbine, dipped three times in a mixture of gum Arabic and sugar, dried and coated with a concentrated sugar syrup.  They are then blanched in a sugar syrup with added starch, smotthed and coloured if required.

            Chocolate, nougat, londant icing thrusting, almond paste or liqueor fillings are moulded before being coated with sugar.  Specialities include olives de Provence, different types of catholoux and galets, and ants de Flarigny.  Perles d argent are made by coating a sugar center with a gelative-based solution, then with pure silver.

            Soft dragees (also called dragees a frud or dragees Julienne) are shaped like beans or peas and their centers consist of clear or opaque boiled sugar coated with a dilute glucose slution and then with icing (confectioner’s sugar).

DRAGON FRUIT See pitabaya.

DRAIN.  To pour a liquid off a solidwith the primary intention of saying the solid.  For example, water is drained from raw foodstuffs that have been washed or from foods that have been cooked or blanched in water.  A colander or sieve is used for the purpose, if the cooking liquid is required the colander should be placed over a bowl.  Alternatively, a pan may be covered with a lid, leaving a small gap for the liquid to be poured off – this is a useful method for potatoes.

            Small items can be lifted from cooking water (or fat) on a draining spoon and held over the pan until excess liquid has dripped off.  Spinach can be squeezed with the hands or excess water can be pressed out with the back of a spoon.  Bread soaked in milk (used to make a stuffing) can also be squeezed by hand.  Foods that have been deep-fried are also drained to remove the excess oil or fat.

DRAMBUIE.  A Scotch whisky-ased liqueur, which can be drink at any time.  Its formula is the property of the Mackinnon family, who keep it a secret.  The origin of the name apparently comes from the Gaelic expression an dram buidbech (the liqueur that satisfies’).  Drambuie, little known in the continental Europe, is popular in the United States.

DRESSER..A French culinary term with several different meanings.  In cooking, it means to arrange attractively on the serving dish all the items that comprise a particular preparation, including the principal ingredient, the garnish, the sauce and any decorations.  In patisseries dresser means to roll out pastry for lining a mould or flan tin (pie pan), or to force dough through a piping (pastry) bag.

            In restaurants, dressage takes place as soon as the dishes are a point (ready to be served).  Garnishes must always be kept in perfect condition for use.  For example, sprigs of parsley and bunches of water-cress are kept in fresh water, maitre d’hotel butter is kept cold in water with ice cubes’ mushrooms are sprinkled with lemon juice; and flavoured butters are shaped into rolls, wrapped in foil and stored in the refrigerator.

            The items used in dressage include serving dishes, radish dishes, hors-d’oeuvre dishes (divided into sections), sundae glasses, timbale dishes, copper platters for serving game, vegetable dishes, sauceboats (gravy boats), salad dishes, soup tureens, terrine dishes, fruit dishes and toast racks.  Fonds de plat and bords de plat were used at one time.  The former were either round or oval pieces of wool that were placed on the bottom of a plate to form a raised base for cold dishes.   They were usually covered with silver paper. Bords de plat were wide-rimmed decorative dishes made of solid silver or silver plate on which the garnishes were arranged around the principal item.

            Certain dishes require a particular style of dressage, for example, oysters and other seafood are served on a large plate covered with crushed ice. Certain items call for secific utensils, such as special plates and tongs for snails or asparagus cradles.

·         Methods of dressage.  The items of food may be presented in various ways.  Game and poultry are often served on slices of fried bread.  Potatoes are often used in various ways for dressage-borders, duches potatoes, nests of potato straws, little piles of noisetie potatoes.  Artichoke hearts, tomatoes and mushrooms are also used in this way.

            The plates and dishes for dressage must be kept at the correct temperature for the food they are to hold (for example, sundae glasses must be ice-cold).

            The present tendency in French restaurants is for service a Passiette in which the individual  portion is placed directly on the plate, coated with sauce and garnished with vegetables.

DRESSING FISH, POULTRY AND GAME

The preparation of fish, poultry and game birds for cooking.

·         DRESSING FISH.  The fish must be necessary trmmed, sealed gutted (cleaned) and washed (some of this may be carried out by the fishmonger).  The dressing will vary depending on the type of fish (flat, round, small or large) and on the way it is to be served.  For example, if a whole sole fillet is not trimmed, but the skin is removed  completely).

·         DRESSING POULTRYand Game birds.  The bird must first be plucked carefully picked over and singed.  Poultry is then drawn, sualy trussed, and often larded, but the preparation will varry according to the type of bird.  Feathered game is not always completely guffed; trussing or trying, and sometimes landing, complete the dressing.  All the above operations apply to birds that are to be cooked whole.  When they are to be cut into portions, the giblets, white meat and breasts are removed, and it is, therefore, only necessary to pluck, singe and draw the bird.

DRIED VINE FRUITS.  Currants, sultanas (golden raisings) and raisins.  These dried fruits are all produced by exposing ripe grapes to hot dry air so that the moisture is drawn out.  This leaves the flesh and skin so concentrated that the activities of enzymes and the growth of moulds and bacteria are inhibited.  It takes 1.8 kg (1 lb) grapes to produce 450 g (1 lb.) currants, sultanas or raisins.

            For all types of dried vine fruit, the grapes are dried naturally in the sun or artificially by hot air.  The dried fruit is sorted and graded, the seeds and stalks are removed, and the fruit is then usually spin-washed, dried and a light coating of preservative  applied before it is finally packed.

·         CURRANTS Produced mainly in Greece, the quality varies with the type of grape used and the soil conditions.  Traditionally, the finest are Vostizza but excellent fruit is produced in the Zante Gulf and also grown in Australia, California and South Africa, but the limited production is usually for domestic consumption.

·         SULTANAS (GOLDEN RAISINS).  These come from grapes that are green when fresh but darken in colour when dried.  Light-coloured fruit is generally obtained by drying in the shade, and darker fruit by sun-drying. In both cases drying is natural, using the hot dry harvest weather.  Many countries in the northern hemisphere produce sultanas – Greece, France, Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, China, the United States and Mexico.  In the Southern hemisphere the producers are Australia, South Africa and Chile.

·         SEEDLESS RAISINS.  Produced in the United States, Mexico and South Africa, they are obtained from the Thompson sultana grape and are green when harvested.  They are sun-dried, the action of the sun caramelizing the sugars and causing the fruit to darken to a purplish-brown colour.  A red raising grape is produced in Afghanista, after drying, it is essentially of the same appearance as the other.

·         STONED (PITTED) Raisins.  These come from large red grapes that are generally used as wine and table grapes, although some are sun-dried.  To extract the seeds, the fruit is steamed to soften it, then put through special machinery that squeezes the seeds out.  The skin is then sealed by a light coating to prevent the fruit is steamed to soften it, then put through special machinery that squeezes the seeds out.  The skin is then sealed by a light coating to prevent the fruit from sugaring.  Australia, SouthAfrica and Spain are the main producers.

            Dried vine fruits are widely used in all areas of cookery.  They are used in savoury or sweet recipes, rawo cooked, including salads, casseroles and stuffings for meat or poultry.  They are added to rice dishes and cooked with some vegetales.  Dried vine fruits are also essential in many chutneys and pickles.

            In sweet cookery, they contribute sweetness and a rich flavour to compotes, sauces, salads and baked desserts or puddings.  In baking they are essential for a wide variety of cakes and pastries; and they bring character tomany sweet breads.

Recipe

Raisin tart

Soak 500 g (18 oz, 3 cups) raising in brandy.  Beat 8 whole eggs lightly, then whip them together with  l litre (l l/4 pints, 4 l/3 cups) double (heavy) cream, 350 g (l2 oz, l l/2 cups) caster (superfine) sugar and 2 teaspoons vanilla sugar or a few drops of vanilla essense (extract).  Line a flan tin (pie pan) at least 28 cm (11 in) in diameter with 450 g (l lb) puff pastry.  Pour the cream into the pastry case, add the raisins and bake in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for at least 30 minutes.

DRINK.  The simplest and most natural drink, and the only one essential for the survival of all living organisms, is water.  The average consumption of liquid in a temperate climate is l litre ( l ¾ pints, 4 l/3 cups) per day, but needs to vary according to the climate and the diet.  For example, meat and salted spiced or sweetened dishes al increase the thirst.  Human kind has used its intelligence to vary the flavour of drinks, which may be sweet aromatic fermented or spirit-based.

            Water-based drinks, which may be still or sparkling hot or cold, include lemonades soads and syrups, broths, infusions, tea, coffee, chocolate and chovory.  Drinks of vegetable origin may or may not be alcoholic, for example; fruit and vegetable juices, wine, cider, beer and perry.  Such drinks can be transformed by ditillation into brandy, liqeurs and spirits.  These different liquids have given rise to countless variations-coctails, liqueurs, apertitifs, punches and grogs.  Milk from animals is really a liquid food, but may also be used to prepare drinks such as milk shakes and kefir.

            Drinking habits vary considerably depending on the customs of a country and the latitude. As a general rule, Orientals and Russians do not drink with their meals, but take tea at the end of a meal.  Tea is the most widely consumed drink in the world after water.

            In France, mineral water, beer and wine are the drinks that traditionally accompany meals.  Family and social life also ofer numerous other occasions to consume drinks for pleasure.

·         Drinking establishments.  These considerably predate restaurans, they include pubs and taverns, bars, milk bars, and tea rooms.  Such establishments may even vary from region to region in the same country; in France, for example, there are the bouchons of Lyon, the estaminets of the north and the guinguettes (pleasure gardens) and bistros of Paris.

            The code of drinking establishments classifies drinks into five groups non-alcoholic drinks (water, fruit juice, lemonade), lenmented non-distilled drinks, (wine, beer, rider), wine-based apentifs and red fruit liqueus, juices and spirits obtained by distillation, and all other alcoholic drinks.

            In former times, most drinks were either produced in the home or by local makers-home-made beers and liqueurs, orgeat, mulled wine.  Today, drinks are produced commercially and the market has grown considerably particularly for the sale of fruit juices.  Drinks are sold in various packagings (bottles and cans) and in variety of forms (concentrated, powdered, frozen).

DRIPPING PAN.  A metal pan to catch juices or melted fatfrom a roasting joint, poultry or any meat or when grilling broiling) food.  The French word, lechfite, has been used since the end of the l2th century before this the pan was called a belle bottebe.  In former times these receptacles were made of wrought iron and were fitted with a long handle, so that they would be slipped under meat being roasted in huge fire places.  They were also made of silver.

DROIT DE BANWIN.  The monopoly on the sale of new wine reserved the landlords of their own land durting a set period 9generally 60 days before the opening of the selling season.)  In some  areas feudal right, dating back to the time of Charlemagne, began at Easter and ended at Whitsun, seven weeks later.

DROUANT.  A restaurant opened in Paris in l880 by an Alsatian.  Charles Drouant, on the corner of Place Gallon and Rue Saint-Augustin.  Specializing in seafood, it attracted a clientele of writers and journalists, such as Jean Ajalbent, Leon Daudet, Octave Mirbeau and the Rosny brothers, Drouant expanded his business and his fame spread, thanks to his cellar (particularly white vintages).  In October l9l4 the restaurant really found a place in literary history, when the Academie Goncourt decided to hold its lunches, there.  There are numerous gourmets among the Goncourt academicians, particularly Leon Daudet, who introduced the serving of blanc, de blames.  Edmond de Goncourts will stipulated that the meal must cost 20 francs per person, and the academicians still pay that modest sum.  Here are a few menus for oncourt lunches, which are traditionally served in the Louis XVI salon on  the second floor, at a round table with a damask tablecloth.

·         1933 (prize winner:  Andre Malraux for La Coondition bumaine); oysters, pike boulangere, roast turkey with thinly sliced roast potatoes cep mushrooms with thinly sliced roast potatoes, cep mush-rooms is let bordelaise, cheeses praline ice and fruit.

·         1954 (prize winner:  Simone de Beauvoir for les Mandarins) oysters, grilled tubot, bresse chicken with champagne, cheeses, liqueur soufflé and fruit.

·         198l (prize winner:  Lucien Bodard for Anne marie); beluga caviar, foie gras in port apie, lobster drouant, haunch of venison Saint-Hubert, chestnut cream, cheeses, iced hazelnut soubble with migmaradises (small biscuits or cakes).

DRUMSTICK.  The lower leg of a fowl or game bird, consisting of the bone, meat and a thin layer of fat, gvig it the shape of a pestle (hence the French name pilon, which means pestle).  It is fleshier and juicier than the white meat, but inferior to the thigh.

DRYING. One of the oldest methods of preserving food.  Drying slows down the proliferation and activity of the bacteria that a cause spoilage and decay, but it considerably alters the appearance of food, due to the loss meat in the meat in the same way to make pemmican.  Pastram and various salted meats are dried quite heavily, and may subsequently be smoked.  The process of drying in the open air and wind is applied to fish (generally salted fish) in Scandinavia, Senegal and India.  The drying of fruits and vegetables has been widely practiced since time immemorial-in Greece (for grapes), in Turkey (for apricots), in Iran and Spain (for tomatoes), in Hungary (for peppers), and in most other countries for spears, sliced apples, plums, whole cherries and grapes.  Vegetables are usually dried flat on trestles in the sun, the drying often being completed in the oven.

            With the success of freezing and its characteristics for retaining the food value of ingredients, drying is no longer an essential means of preserving food for times when it may be out of season or expensive.  However, it is an important method of preparing specific ingredients such as dried benas and pulses, and dried fruit, as well as a wide-variety of specialist fod products, many of which were originally dried for local and domestic preservation.  Sun dried tomatoes and pepers are godo examples, available seasoned or reconstituted in a marinade.  Dring is still the method used to preserved  wild mushrooms.

            Drying is often supplemented for preceded by smoking, salting, fumigation (dried vegetables) or spraying with sulphur dioxide (dried fruit).

·         Modern commercial drying.  In industry, the selection of the drying process depends mainly on the texture and size of the foodstuff, but factors such as ease of transport and convenience in use must also be considered.  For modern industrial methods of drying, which eliminate a vary large proportion of voter, the term dehydration is used.  Dehydration is carried out in the food industry for several reasons, to preserve the product for a considerable period of time; to reduce the weight and usually the volume of the product, thus making it easier to transport and store; and to reduce the preparation time (as with instant coffee and dried soups).

            The concentration of a product involves partial dehydration by evaporation, filtration or centrifugation.  Certain products (such as milk, soups, meat extracts, vegetable concentrates and fruit juices) retain between a third and half of their natural water content and always remain in a liquid form.

            Dessication or dehydration in the sense sense of the word, is achieved by different processes.

·         DRINKING ON TRAYS.  Solid foods are cut into small pieces and    constantly moved forward in an oven or tunnel through which a current of hot dry air is directed in the opposite direction.  The moisture is gradually absorbed.

·         DRYING ON DRUMS.  Soft foods (purees, baby foods, soups) are spread in a thin layer on the outside wall of a rotating drum that is heated from the inside.  Special knives scrape off the dry film, which is subsequently reduced to a powder or to flakes.

·         ATOMIZATION.  Liquids such as milk or coffee) are atomized to form a tine spray.  The tiny particles in the vapour are dehydrated with a current of hot air and collected in powder form.

Products subject to discussion no more than on average.  ( 0/0 of their original water content, and will keep for very long periods and hermetically sealed containers see also freeze dying

RECIPES

Drying apples and pears

Peel and core some cooking apples.  Cut them into slices 1 cm ( ½ in) think and put into water containing lemon juice or 2 teaspoons citric acid per 1 litre ( 1 ¼ pints. 4 ½ cups) water.  Drain and place flat, without overlapping on a wooden trestle in the sun.  leave the fruit (bringing it in at night) for 2-3 days, if necessary finish off the drying in the oven on its coolest setting.  The apple rights should be flexible but must contain no more water.

      Pears 9sound ones only) may be dried whole and unpeeled in the sun.  finish off in the oven as for apples.  When cooled, fried may be flattened between boards.

      In countries where the weather is not so clement, the fruit may be dried in the oven or suspended from the ceiling, threaded on string

Drying herbs

Gather the herbs just before they flower (avoid picking them after it has been raining).  Wash, then shake off the water.  Roll up small leaved herbs (thyme, rosemary and avory) in muslim (cheese cloth0 loosely, without squashing them together, then hang them up in a warm place.  Herbs with large leaves (bay, mint sage, parsley and basll) can be dried in bunches, tied together by the stalks and hung upside down.  Alternatively the leaves may be removed and wrapped in muslim.  When the herbs are dried, leave them whole or crush them with a rolling pin.  Keep them in sealed jars in a dark dry place.  Drying a microware gives perfect results.

Drying vegetables

Using a needle, thread some young sound French (green) beans on to shick thread.  Ensure that they are not too tightly packed together tying a knot occasionally to separate them.  Dip in boiling salted water use 2 teaspoons salt per 1 litre ( 1 ¼ pins, 4 ½ cups) water – drain them, and hang them in a fairly shady for 3-4 days, bringing them inside at night (or suspend from the ceiling).

      Mushrooms can be dried in the same way, once the earthy part of the stalk has been cut off.  Small green chili peppers, which become dark red when dried, can be threaded through the stalk, as can baby onions, garlic bulbs and shallots.  Store green beans, peppers and mushrooms out of the light in sealed jars.  Dehydrate before use by soaking for 12 hours in tepid water.

DRYING OFF.  Eliminating excess water from cooked food by heating it over a low beat.  It is necessary to dry off potatoes before mashing with milk and butter.  Tossing them rapidly in a saucepan before coating may evaporate the excess moisture absorbed by vegetables during cooking with butter.

      In France, the term dessecher is used particularly for the initial cooking of choux paste.  The mixture of water, butter and flour is worked vigorously over a high heat with a wooden spatula until the paste detaches itself from the walls of the pan and forms a full.  Thus, excess water evaporates before the eggs are added and the choux is baked.

      Drying off is not synonymous with reducing, which refers only to the princess of boiling down certain liquids so that they are reduced in volume.

DU BARRY.  The name given several dishes that contain cauliflower A Dan Barry garnish for joints of  meat consists of chateau potatoes and small florets of blanched cauliflower coated with moray sauce, sprinkled with grated cheese browned under the grill and arranged it  lot serviette.  These dishes were dedicated to the Comtesse do Barry, the favourite of louis XV.

Recipes

Croutes Du Barry

Prepare some individual croutes and top with cauliflower florets cooked gently in butter.  Coat with Mornay sauce, sprinkle with grated cheese and brown in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F. gas 9).

Du Barry salad

Steam some very small white cauliflower florets for about 4 minutes in a pressure cooker  or about 12 minutes in an ordinary saucepan.  Drain and cool completely, and heap  them in a salad bowl.  Garnish with radishes and small sprigs of watercress.  Pour some well-seasoned vinaigrette with added lemon over the salad and sprinkle with chopped herbs.  Toss the salad just before serving.

Du Barry soup

Cook a cauliflower in salted water, then press it through a sieve (or puree in a blender).  Mix with it a quarter of tis weight of potato puree, then add enough consommé or milk to obtain a creamy consistency.  Finally, add some single (light) cream-about 150 ml (¼ pint, ¾ cup) for 5 portions.  Adjust the seasoning, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Battuer may alsobe added.

DUBLEY.  A  garnish for large joints of meat, consisting of grilled (broiled) mushrooms and duchess potato  crouslades surrounded by a border of mushroom puree.

DUBOIS, URBAIN FRANCOIS.  French chef doom bets, ISIS  cried Nice.  POD. Dubois began his career in Paris with Tortoni, then moved to the Rocher de Caneale, and later to the Café Anglais.  Most of his life, however was spent abroad in Russia was chef to Prince Odott, and in Germany he was joint chef of Walhelm I with Paule Bernard, who had been in the service of Napoleon III.

      Dubois produce a large collection of written work but is remembered mainly for  la cuisine olds square written in collaboration with Emile Bernard.  His other publications include La Cuisine debois les pawn ciso, la cuisine artistiqua (l8700, Ecode de cuisimeres, l876, La Nourelle Cuisine bourgeoise pour la ville et pour la campagne (l878).  Le Grand lierre des patissiers et des confiseurs la major work for pastrycooks and confectioners. (l883), La Cuisine d’anjourd’bui (l889) and Le Patisseries d’anjournd’bui (l894).

DUCHESSE.  A sweet or savoury preparation of choux pastry that may be served as an entire, a garnish or a dessert (like profiteroles).  Savoury duchesses are filled with a mouse or a salpicon.  Duchesses for dessert are filled with vanilla-flaoured confectioner’s custard (pastry cream) or whipped cream, dusted with icing (confectioner’s) sugar, and scattered with chopped pistachio nuts, flaked almonds or dusted with cocoa.

      Duchesses are also petits fours consisting of meringue shells or circles of langue-de-chat biscuit (cookie) mixture, stuck together in pairs with flavoured butter cream.

      Duchesse is also the name of a variety of winter pear, and of certain desserts that include pears.

Recipe

Duchesse petits fours

Grease 3 baking sheets and dust with flour.  Mix together 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) ground almonds, 100 g (4 oz ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, and 40 g  (1½ oz, 3 tablespoons) butter and add to the mixture.  Put the mixture into a piping (pastry) bag and pipe small rounds on to the baking sheets.  Cook in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F, gas 5) for 7-8 minutes, remove from the oven and carefully lift off the rounds of meringue with a palette knife (spatula).  Mix  200 g (7 oz. L cup) ground praline with 225 g (8 oz. 1 cup) crème au beurre (see creams) and use to sandwich the duchesses together.  Store in a cool place.

DUCHESSE, A LA  The description a la duchesse is given in French cuisine to various dishes garnished, surrounded or served with duchess potatoes.  In patisseries, the name applies to certain preparations containing almonds.

Recipes

Amandines a la duchesse

Make a dough with 150 g (5 oz. 1½ cup), plain  (all purpose) flour, 75 g (3 oz, 6 tablespoons) softened  butter, 3 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar, a pinch of salt, 1 egg yolk and 4 teaspoons water.  Roll it into a ball and place in the refrigerator.  Beat  100 g (4 oz, l/2 cup) butter until soft and mix into it 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup) caster sugar.  Add 2 egs, one at a time, and beat the mixture.  Stir in 100 g (4 oz, 1 cup) ground almonds, then 50 g (2 oz, ½ cup) cornflour (cornstarch), and mix well.  Add 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) kirsch.

      Rol our the chilled dough to a thickness of about 3 mm (1/8 in) and cut out 8rounds with a pastry (cookie) cutter.  Use these to line 8 buttered tartlet moulds and prick the bottom of each one with a fork.  Put a few cooked redcurrants into each of the tartlets and cover with the almond mixture.  Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 20 minutes.  Allow the amandines to cool completely before turning them out of the moulds.  Warm 100 g ( 4 oz, 1/3 cup) redcurrant jelly and use  to glaze the amandines.  Decorate thetopswith redcurrants and keep in a cool place.

Peaches a la duchesse

Make a dough with 150 g (5 oz, 1½cups) plain (all-purpose0 flour, a pinch of salt, 3 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar, 75 g (3 oz. 6 tablespoons) softened butter.  1 tablespoon water and 1 egg yolk.  Roll into a ball and place in the refrigerator.  Dice 8 slices canned pineapply and macerate them in kirsch.  Put 50 g (2 oz, ½ cup), flaked almonds on to a baking sheet, moisten with water, dust with sugar and bake in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6), until golden brown, turning often.

      Roll out the chilled dough to a thickness of about 3 mm (1/8 in) and cut out 8 circles with a pastry (cookie) cutter.  Use to line 8 tarlet moulds prick the bottom of each one with a fork, place a piece of greaseproof (wax) paper in each and fill with baking beans.  Cook for 5 minutes in the oven, remove the paper and baking beans, and cook for a further 7 minutes.  Cool and then turn out of the moulds.

      Prepare a zabaglione by whicking 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup) caster sugar and 3 egg yolks in a bain m arie until the mixture is warm and frothy.  Add 3 tablespoons of both kirsch and Mraschino, whisking until the mixture has thickened.  Soften 500  ml (17 ft oz, 2 cups) vanilla ice cream by crushing it with a wooden spatula.  Add the diced pineapple.  Place some of the ice-cream mixture in the bottom of each tartlet, put a canned peach half on each, and coat with the zabaglione.  Sprinkle with flaked almonds and chill briefly.

      The peaches may be replaced by pears.

Poached eggs a la duchesse

Spread some cold duchess potato mixture on a buttered dish and cut out circles about 7 cm (2 ¼ in) in diameter.  Bake in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) until golden brown and arrange a poached egg on each.  Coat with béchamel sauce.  Mornay sauce, tomato sauce, cream sauce or any other suitable  sauce.

DUCHESS POTATOES.  Potatoes pureed with butter and egg yolk, piped into decorative shapes and baked duchess potatoes are served with roast meat or they may be used as a garnish.  The mixture is also used to make croquettes.  Berny potatoes (mixed with chopped truttles, coated with flaked almonds, shaped into rounds and fried) and Saint-Florentine potatoes (mixed with chopped ham, coated with fine uncooked vermicelli, shaped into small corks and fried).

Recipes

Duchess potato mixture

Cut 500 g (18 oz) peeled potatoes into thick slices or quarters.  Boil them briskly in salted water.  Drain, put in a warm oven for a few moments to evaporate excess moisture, and press through a sieve.  Put the puree into a saucepan and dry off for a few moments on the hob (stovetop), turning with a wooden spoon.  Add 50 g (2 oz, ¼ cup) butter and season with salt, pepper and a little grated nutmeg.  Mix in 1 egg and 2 yolks.

      This mixture is easier to pipewhile hot; it may be piped for borders or into swirls on a greased baking sheet to be served as duches potatoes proper.  Brush the cooled swirls of potato with beaten egg and brown them in a hot oven.

      Alternatively, spread the puree on a buttered baking sheet, leave until cold and shape as indicated in the recipe.

Fried duchess potatoes

Heat some oil for deep-frying to about 180°C (350°F).  Put some cooled duchess potato mixture in a piping (pastry) bag with a plain nozzle about 2 cm (3/4 in) in diameter and pipethe mixture into the hot oil, cutting it off into about 4 cm ( 1 l/2 in) lengths.  Cook until golden brown, drain on paper towels and serve very hot.

      Instead of piping the mixture, it may be spread out on a buttered baking sheet, cooled and cut into even-sized rectangles.  These can be rooled into cylinders and then deep-friend.

DUCK A  web-footed bird that was domesticated in China over 2000 years ago.  In France, the most common breeds are the Nantes duck and the Barbary duck.  The mulard duck, produced by crossing these twobreeds, is reared mainly in south-western France for the production of fole gras since the l970s and is highly esteemed by gourmets.  Whatever the breed, duck should be consumed within three days of killing.

·         Aylesbury British breed originally from the town of the same name, this is a white chick with light, tender flesh.

·         Barbary Duck French breed.  Raised in the wild; firmer and leaner flesh with a slightly musky flavour.

·         Gressingham.  A British wild-domestic crossbreed between the mallard and a domestic duck.

·         Long Island Descending from the Peking duck, this is the popular American duck.

·         Long Island Descending from the Peking duck, this is the popular American duck.

·         Nantes Duck (or Challans duck-after the name of the marshland where it is raised in a semi-wild state).  Smaller but latter, with fine, delicately flavoured flesh.

·         Norfolk British duck from the country of the same name, a primary area for rearing poultry.

·         PekingDuck.  A small white duck crossed with the Aylesbury in Britain and the bird from which the long Island duck has developed in America.  Originally bred only in the Imperial palace in China before being taken to America.  Very fine, with delicate flesh.

·         Rouen Duck.  The excellent Rouen duck, in particular the Duclain  (named after a village in Normandy), is mainly sold locally.  Very fine flesh, tinged with red, with a special flavour due to the fact that the bire is smothered, not bled, so that the blood remains in the muscles.

Modern breeding methods have made duck leaner and more widely available in large supermarkets, as whole birs or in portions and prepared breast fillets.  In French cookery, the term canard applies to birds two to four months old, Cameton (duckling) is used for younger birds and in grande cuisine.  The female duck 9came) is smaller but plumper than the drake, it is preferred for roasts because its meat is liner and tastier.  A female duckling is called a canette.

            Duck’s eggs which have a greenish white shell and weigh 75-125 g (3-4/2 oz), are very popular in the far East.  However, because they often carry salmonella bacteria, duck’s eggsshould only be eaten cooked.

Cooking methods.  Very tender birds roast on a spit; tender birds; roast in the oven (for both these methods, the cooked  meat should be pale pink); less tender birds braise or roast (stuffed), and garnish with onions, turnips, olives and acid fruits; very large birds; use for pates; balotines and cassoulets.

            Choose for preference a fairly young bird with a flexible beak; the piston flesh as well as the skin should be supple and the breast plump.  When a duckling is killed too young, the breastbone is still soft and the flesh is not developed sufficiently.  The current tendency in restaurants is to use ducklings, although some preparations can only be successfully made with more mature birds.  The cold dishes using duck are the same as those made with roasting chicken.

Pressed duck.  Created at the beginning of the l9th century by a restaurateur from Rouen called Mechenet, the recipe for pressed duck owed much of its immediate success to the duke of Cahrtres, who commended it highly in Paris.  When the renowned cook Frederic took over the restaurant La Tour d’Argent, he began numbering all the pressed ducks that he served, intending tomake the dish the speciality of his restaurant.  By the end of l996, a million had been served.  No 328 was served to Edward VIII, then Prince of Wales, in l890 No. 33.642 was provided for Theodore Roosevelt and No. 253.652 for CharlieChaplain.

            Leon Daudet, in Paris vecu, describes the cook at work.  You ought to have seen Fredric with  his monocle, his graying whiskers, his calm demeanour, carving his plump quack quack trussed and already flamed throwing it into the pan, preparing the sauce, salting and peppering like Claude Monet’s paintings, with the seriousness of a judge and the precision of a mathematician, and opening up, with a sure hand, in advance, every perspective of taste.’

            Pressed duck is prepared in front of the customer.  Thin slices of breast (atiguillettes) are cut from the bird and placed in a dish of well-reduced red wine standing on a hotplate.  The rest of the duck, except for the legs, which are served grilled (broiled), is pressed in a special screw press.  The juice obtained is flavoured with Cognac, thickened with butter and poured over the arguillettes, which finish cooking in the sauce.

Wild duck.  There are  many breeds ofwild duck.  The most commn species include the mallard (colvert) also the largest and with exquisite flesh.  The male has green and grey plumage with a touch of brown and white.  The female is brown.  Practically sedentary from October to March, the mallard migrates south only in very cold wether.  Teal (sarcelle) is another popular duck of which there are several types.

            Other wild ducks that are well known in gastronomy include the shoveler duck (souchet), which has a spatulate beak, the gadwall (chapeau), which is grey and white with a brown border on the wings (in easter France), the baldpate (stiffleur), which is a smaller, coastal species, and the pintail (pilet), which is less highly regarded.  The sheldrake (tadorne) and the pintail (pilet), which is less highly regarded.  The sheldrake (tadorner) and the merganser (barle) are now protected species.

            Generally speaking, only the legs and fillets of wild ducks are eaten (this is why one bird is required for every two servings).  These game birds are not hung, but used fresh: young tender birds are roasted on a spit or in the oven’ older birds are prepared as a salmis or fricassee.  Dishes made using domestic duck are also applicable to wild duck.

            The shooting of wild duck is subject to regulation in the same way as other game.  In Britain, mallard and teal are in season from September to January and best in November and December.

Recipes

Amiens duck pate

Preparing the pastry spread 500 g (l lb. 2 oz, 4 l/2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour out on a board or work surface, make a wel in the center and put in l teaspoon table salt.  Break an egg into the well and mix with the salt, then add l tablespoon olive oil.  Soften 125 g (4 l/2 oz, l/2 cup) lard (shortening) by kneading if necessary, then mix it with the liquid part in the center of the flour.  Then blend the flour and lard, without moistening at all.  When the pastry is well blended, spread it out and sprinkle with about l l/2 tablespoons cold water.  Roll the pastry together into one lump and leave to rest in a coll place for at least 2 hours before use.  (This pastry has the advantage of rising very little during cooking).

·         Preparing the duck.  To make this pate, use only young ducklings, which can be cooked very quickly.  Pluck draw and singe the bird, carefully removing any innards that may remain.  Cut off the wing tips just below the first joint from the shoulder.  Cut off the feet at the joint.  Season the inside and outside with spieced salt.  Cut up a side of streaky (slab) bacon and fry over a low heat in a little cooking fat.  Remove it and brown theduck in the fat over a low heat, turning it so that it browns all over.  Drain the duck on a dish and leave to cool before making the pate.

·         Preparing the forcemeat.   A gratin forcemeat is always used for this pate.  The ingredients may vary, depending on what is available, and may include veal or poultry liver, in addition to the liver from the duck.  Melt l50 g (5 oz, 2/3 cup) finely chopped far over a low heat and use it tobrown 500 g (l lb 2 oz) veal or poultry liver, which has been suitably trimmed and coarsely diced.  When the liver is well browned, add l chopped onion and 2 chopped shallots, and season with l tablespoon spiced salt, some chopped thye and bay leaves.  Cover  and leave for a few minutes on a low heat.  Remove and allow to cool, then pound the mixture in a mortar and pass through a fine sieve.

·         Making  the pate Divide the pastry into two equal portions and roll one half into an oval about l cm (l/2 in.) thick so it is a little longer and wider than the duck.  Place this pastry in the center of a metal baking sheet or ovenproof pie dish that has been lightly moistened with a little cold water.  Next, spread  a quarter of the forcemeat in the middle of the pastry and lay the duck, on its back, on top: season the duck with more spiced salt and a little cayenne pepper.  Completely cover the duck with the remaining forcemeat.  Roll our the remaining pastry in an oval shape and place over the duck, sealing it well at the edges.  Crimp up the sides, garnish the top with some pieces of pastry cut into fancy shapes and make an opening in the center for the steam to escape.  Finally, glaze the pastry with beaten egg.  Bake the pate in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for 1 ¼- 1 l/2 hours, depending on the size.

Braised duck

Singed  and truss a duck weighing about 2 kg (4 ½ lb.) Put it into an ovenproof braising pan lined with fresh bacon rind and containing a carrot and a medium-sized onion cut into rounds and tossed in butter.  Add a bouquet garni, season and cook, covered, for 15 minutes, browning theduck on all sides. Moister with 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) white wine, reduce and add 300 ml (1/2 pint, 1 1/4cups) chicken stock.  Boil, then transfer toa preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7), and cook, covered, for about l hour.  Drain the duck, untruss it, arrange on a serving dish and surround with fresh garden peas.  Sprinkle with a few spoonfuls of the braising juices, reduced and strained, and serve the remainder in a sauceboat (gravy boat.)

            The same method is used for duck a l’alsacienne, which is surrounded with braised sauerkraut and a garnish of streaky (slab) bacon and Strasburg sausages; duck a la chipolata, which is garnished with braised chestnuts, small glazed onions, lean  rashers (slices) of blanched bacon and chipolata sausages cooked in butter; and duck with olives, in which uses green olives, stoned (pitted)and blanched.

Braised Rouen duck

Rouen duck may be braised, although this is an unusual way of cooking it.  It may be prepared a la bigarade (see Seville orange), with cherries – use a stoned (pitted) morello cherries and dilute the pan juices with Madeira: with chanmpagne-dilute the pan juices with 300 ml (l/2 pint, l l/4 cups) dry champagne and, if liked, a few tablespoons of thickened veal stock; or au chambertin-finish off the cooling with 25 g (4 l/2 oz) blanched and fried larding bacon and mushroom caps tossed in butter.

Cold duck pate

This is made using a boned duck, stuffed with d grotin forcemeat to which foie gras and truffles have been added, either en pantin (see pate pantin), like cold lark pate, or in a mould, like cold timbale of woodcock.

Duck a pagenaise

Singe a duck weighing about 2 kg (4 l/2 lb).  Season the inside with salt and pepper, stuff with a dozen or so stoned (pitted) prunes soaked in Armagnac and sew up.  Brown theduck in a pan containing 25 g (l oz, 2 tablespoons) butter, sprinkle with a glass of Armagnac and set alight.  Cover the pan and cook for about 40 minutes.  Meanwhile, poach the grated zest of half an orange for 5 minutes in half a bottle of Bordeaux wine, together with 2 cloves, a little grated nutmeg, 5 or 6 crushed peppercorns, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf.  In a saucepan, brown l0 g (4 oz, l/2 cup) very small lardoons of smoked bacon, 2 tablespoons diced carrot.  L tablespoon diced celery and a large chopped onion, adding a knob of utter if required.  Sprinkle with l tablespoon flour, then add the orange-flavoured wine, having strained it.  Season with salt and pepper, stir well and cook slowly for 20 mintues.  Drain the duck and keep it hot.  Pour the wine sauce into the juices from the duck and add a small glass of armagnac and about 20 stoned (pitted) prunes.  Reheat the sauce.  Garnish the duck with prunes and cover with the sauce.

Duck a l orange Lasserre

Prepare a Nantes duck weighing about 2 kg (4 l/2 lb.), brown it in butter, then cook gently for 45 minutes.  Sprinkle with l00 ml (4 fl oz, 7 tablespoons) Grand Marnier and leave to cook for a further 5 minutes.  Remove the duck from the pan and keep hot.  Strain the liquor and pour it into a saucepan, adding l tablespoon each vinegar and caster (superfine) sugar, the juice of 3 oranges and l00 ml (4 fl. Oz, 7 tablespoons) each of mandarin and apricot liqueur to make the sauce.  Peel 6 oranges down to the flesh, cut them into slices, removing all fibres and seeds, and place them in a frying pan with a few  spoonfuls of the sauce.  Heat without boiling.  Now carve the duck, arrange it on a hot dish and surround with slices of orange.  Cover with some of the sauce and serve the remainder in a saceboat (gravy boat).

Duck supremes with truffles

This is made with the breast filters (supremes) of a Rouen duck.  Roast the duck in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for about 30 minutes, so it is still slightly pink.  Ct the fillets into large slices  and arrange them in a timbale mould together with thick slices of truffle which have been tossed in butter.  Keep hot.  Roughly chop the remaining carcass and trimmings moisten with Madeira, port of sherry, and reduce.  Add a few tablespoons of reduced demi-glace and boil for a few seconds, then stream. Return to theboil, then add l tablespoon flamed brandy and 2 tablespoons butter.  Pour the sauce over the fillets.

Duck with crystallized turnips and cider

Make a stock with the roast giblets from a 2 kg (4 l/2 lb) duck, l sliced onion and l slicedcarrot.  Add l litre ( l l/4 pints, 4 l/3 cups) cider, l apple and 2 large turnips, peeled and cut into pieces.  When the liquid has reduced to half its original volume, add l litre ( l ¾ pints, 4 l/2 cups)clear stock and cook gently for 20 minutes.  Pour the liquid through a strainer.  Roast the duck in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6), lying on each leg for l0 minutes and on its back for 5 minutes.  Remove from the oven and allow to rest.  In a sauté pan, heat 50 g (2 oz. L/4 cup) butter, add a pinch of sugar and 24 small turnips and fry until golden.  Put the duck in a cast-iron casserole with the turnips and stock and simmer for l0 minutes.  Thicken the sauce with 50 g (2 oz, l/4 cup) butter and add l bunch of cornander culantro), chopped, and  a dash of cider.

Duck with peas

Cut 200 g (7 oz) larding bacon into large dice, and blanch.  Brown these, together wth l2 small onions, in butter in a casserole.  Remove the onions and diced bacon from the pan and replace with a trussed Nantes duck.  Brown the duck on all sides and then drain, retaining the juices.  Dilute the pan juices with l00 ml (4 fl. Oz 7 tablespoons) dry white wine and 250 ml (8 fl oz, l cup)veal or  chicken stockand put the duck into this liquor.  Add l litre ( l l/4 pints, 4 l/2 cups)shelled fresh garden peas, the onions, the bacon  and a bouquet garni.  Season and add 2 tablespoons sugar.  Simmer gently with the lid on for 35-40 minutes.  Drain the duck and arrange on a serving dish, surrounding it with the peas.  Reduce the pan juices, and pour over the duck.  Arrange a lettuce, shredded into a chiffonnade or cutinto quarters, on the peas.  Alternatively, cook the duck in the same way but leave it slightly underdone.  Add l litre ( l ¾ pints, 4 l/2 cups) freshgarden peas cooked a la francoise and simmer gently for a few mintues.

Jelled fillets of Roonen duck a Porange

Cook a 2 kg  (4 l/2 lb) duck for about 35 minutes in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F gas 9) so that it remains slightly pink.  Remve the legs and cutthe breast fillets diagonally into slices, leaving them attached at the base.   Coat the breast fillets with a brown chaud-froid sauce a l’orange.  Glazed with a aspic and chill.

            Prepare a mousse using the flesh off the legs, adding diced truffles.  Fill tiny dome-shaped moulds 9or a parfait mould) with the mousse and place in the refrigerator to set.

            From a loag, cut croutons to the size of the moulds and butter them, then toast or fry until crisp and golden.  Cool.  Turn the set mousses out on to the croutons.  Arrange the fillets of duck on plates, taking care to keep the tops of the slices neatly closed together.  Pour a few spoonfuls of half-set aspic on to the plates and arrange some orange segments as a garnish.  Garnish theduck fillets with shreds of pared orange zest and add a mouse-topped crouton to each plate.  Chill before serving.

Mallard with green peppercorns

Select a mallard duck weighing about l.4 kg. (3 lb.)  Season theinside and outside with salt and pepper and place in a roasting pan.  Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons oil and oil and cook for 30 minutes  in a preheated oven at 200°C (475°F, gas 9) sothat it remains slightly pink.  Removed the legs and cut the breast fillets diagonally into slices, eaving them attached at thebase.  Coat the breast fillets with a brown chaud-froid sauce  a l’ orange.  Glaze with a aspic and chill.

            Prepare a mousse using the flesh off the legs, adding diced truffles.  Fill tiny dome-shaped moulds (or a parfait mould) with the mousse and place in the refrigerator to set.

            From a loaf, cut croutons to the size of the moulds and butter them, then toast or fry until crisp and golden.  Cool.  Turn the set mousses out on to the croutons.  Arrange the fillets of duck on places, taking care to keep the tops of the slices neatly closed together.  Pour a few spoonsfuls of half-set aspic on to the plates and arrange some orange segments as a garnish.  Garnish theduck fillets with shreds of pared orange zest and add a musse-topped crouton to each plate.  Chill before serving.

Mallard with green peppercorns

Select a mallard duck weighing  about l.4 kg. (3 lb).  Season the inside and outside with salt and pepper and place in a roasting pan.  Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons oil and cook for 30 minutes in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6).  Then cover the dish with foil to keep the duck hot.  Peel 2 good-sized Granny Smith apples, cut them into halves, ad remove the seeds and cores.  Cook in a preheated oven at l80°C (350°F, gas 4) for about l0 minutes.  For the sauce, pour 5 tablespoons white wine and l tablespoon.  Armagnac into a saucepan, and reduce by about two-thirds.  Add the juice from a can of green peppercorns and 4 tablespoons stock (duck or other poultry).  Reduce again for 2-3 minutes.  Add 200 ml (7 fl. ¾ cup)single (light) cream, lightly season with salt and cook until the sauce achieves a uniform consistency.  Check the seasoning and at the last moment add 4 teaspoons port and l l/2 tablespoons green peppercorns.  Cut off the breast fillets of the duck and arrange on a serving dish.  Cover with the sauce and garnish with the apple, cut into quarter.

Roast duck

Season the duck with salt and pepper both inside and out, truss and roast in the oven or on a spit.  A duckling weighing about l.25 kg (2 ¾ lb) should be cooked in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7)  for 35 minutes, or for 40-45 minutes on a spit.

Roast duck with peaches

Roast the duck.  Meanwhile, peel some medium-sized peaches and poach them whole in a light syrup.  When the duck is roasted, drain it and keep it hot.  Dilute the pan juices with a little peach syrup and reduce to the consistency of a sauce.  Add the peaches to the sauce to flavour them, heat them through and arrange them around the duck. Serve the sauce in a sauceboat (gravy boat).

Roast duck with maple syrup

Peel 2 Williams (Barlett) pears, cut in half lengthways and remove the cores.  In a frying pan, combine 50 g (2 ox. L/4 cup) caster (superfine) sugar with 250 ml (8 fl. Oz.l cup) dry white wine and the juice of 2 lemons and 2 oranges.  Bring to the boil.  Add the pears, 250 ml (8 fl. Oz., l cup) pure maple syrup and a pinch f ground allspice.  Simmer, until the pears have softened, then remove them from the liquor and put aside in a warm place.  Reserve the maple syrup liquor.

            Meanwhile, wash 2 ducks.  Prick the skin of the breasts with a fork and season.  Place in an ovenproof dish and roast in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 15 minutes.  Peel and chop 2 carrot. 2 onions, 3 celery sticks, l salsify and 2 garlic cloves.  Add to the ducks with 2 cloves, 2 bay leaves and l bunch of thyme, chopped.  Reduce  the oven temperature to l50°C (300°F, gas 2).  Skim the excess fat from the dish and baste the ducks every 10 minutes with the reserved maple syrup mixture.  As soon as the vegetables begin to turn slightly brown, pour in 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) chicken stock.  Continue the  cooking process ( l l/2 hours in all), basting regularly with the juices in the hours in all), basting regularly with the juices in the dish.  When the ducks are cooked, remove them from the dish and put aside in a warm place.  Remove as much fat as possible from the liquid in the dish, leaving the duck juices.  Put the vegetables and juice in a smaller  saucepan and heat.  Add l tablespoon tomato puree (pastre) and cook for 2-3 minutes.  Add a further 500 ml (l7 fl. Oz. 2 cups) chicken stock and any remaining maple syrup mixture.  Simmer for 15 minutes and strain.  Bone the ducks.  Place the pieces of duck on a serving dish and garnish with slices of pears, arranged in a fanshape. Pour the cooking juices over the pieces of duck.

Rouen duck en chemise

Remove the breastbone from a Rouen duck.  Prepare a stuffing by frying l heaped tablespoon chopped onion with l25 g ( 4 l/2 z, 2/3 cup) diced bacon, without browning the onion.  Add an entire duck’s liver and 2 or 3 additional duck or chicken livers cut into thin fillets, salt and pepper, a pinch of allspice and some chopped parsley.  Cook all the ingredients in butter, cool, and blend in a food processor.  Stuff the duck with this mixture, truss and roast in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) for 8-l2 minutes.  Leaves to cool.

            To follow the traditional method, place the duck, head downwards, in a large pork bladder that has been soaked in cold water.  Tie the opening with string and poach in clear braising bladder, on a serving dish.

            Alternatively the duck can be cooked wrapped in a piece of muskin (cheesecloth) or a white talbe napkin with both ends tied, like a galantine.  It is then served unwrapped, surrounded with orange quarters.  Serve rouennaise sauce separately.

Rouen duck in port

Cook a trussed Rouen duck in butter for 30-40 minutes, so that the flesh remaining slightly pink.  Drain the duck and arrange it on a long dish.  Prepare the sauce as follows:  dilute the pan juices with 250 ml (8 fl. Oz. L cup) port, add 250 ml (8 fl oz, l cup) thickened brown veal stock, soil for a few moments, add some butter and strain.  Pour a few spoonfuls of the sauce over the dusk and serve the rest separately in a sauceboat (gravy boat).  The boat can be replaced by Basting regularly with the juices in the dish.  When the ducks are cooked, remove them from the dish and put aside in a warm place.  Remove as much fat as possible from the liquid in the dish leaving the duck juices.  Put the vegetables and juice in a smaller saucepan and heat.  Add l tablespoon tomato puree (paste) and cook for 2-3 minutes.  Add a further 500 ml (l7 fl oz. 2 cups) chicken stock and any remaining maple syrup mixture.  Simmer for 15 minutes and strain.  Bone theducks.  Place the pieces of duck  on a serving dish and garnish with slices of pears, arranged in a fan shape.  Pour the cooking juices over the pieces of duck.

Rouen duck en chemise

Remvoe the breasfbone from a Rouen duck.  Prepare a stuffing by frying l heaped tablespoon chopped onion with l25 g (4 l/2 oz, 2/3 cup) diced bacon, without browning the onion.  Add an entire duck’s liver and 2 or 3 additional duck or chicken livers cut into thin fillets, salt and pepper, a pinch of allspice and sme chopped parsley.  Cook all the ingredients in butter, cool, and blend in a food processor.  Stuff the duck with this mixture, truss and roast in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F , gas 9) for 8-l2 minutes.  Leave to cool.

            To follow the traditional method, place the duck, head downwards, in a large pork bladder that has been soaked in cold water.  Tie the opening with string and poach in clear braising stock for 45 minutes.  Arrange the duck, still in the bladder, on a serving dish.

            Alternatively the duck can be cooked wrapped in a piece of muslin (cheesecloth) or a white table napkin with both ends tied, like a galantine.  It is then served unwrapped, surrounded with orange quarters.  Serve rouennaise sauce separately.

Rouen duck in port

Cook a trussed Rouen duck in butter for 30-40 minutes so that the flesh remains slightly pink.  Drain the duck and arrange it on a long dish.  Prepare the sauce as follows:  dilute the pan juices with 250 ml (8 fl. Oz. L cup) port, add 250 ml (8 fl. Oz, l cup) thickened grown veal stock, boil for a few moments, add some butter and strain.  Pour a few spoonfuls of thesauce over the duck and serve the rest separately in a sauceboat (gravy boat).  The port can be replaced by Banyuls, Frotignan, Madeira, sweet sherry or any other dessert wine.

Rouen duck (or duckling) souffie

This very stylish dish is made with 2 birds, the larger to be served and the smaller to make the forcemeat.  Roast a trussed Rouen duck in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 10-15 minutes; the meat should still be very rare.  Remove the breast fillets, which sould be kept for the final garnish, and remove the breasbone, so that the carcass forms a hollow case.  Season the inside with salt, pepper and spieces, and sprinkle with a spoonful of brandy.  Fill the carcass with a forcemeat made from the raw meat of the smaller duck, boned and prepared as for mousseline forcemeat, l50 g (5 oz.) raw fole grass and the livers of the 2 ducks used.  Stuff the carcass so it is re-formed into its original shape. Cover the duck with buttered greaseproof (wax) paper and tie it so that it will hold the forcemeat during cooking.  Place the stuffed duck on a baking sheet, coat with melted butter and roast in a preheated oven at l50°C (400°F, gas 6) for 10-15 minutes; the meat should still be very rare.  Remove the breast fillets, which should be kept for the final garnish, and remove the breastbone, so that the carcass forms a hollow case.  Season the inside with salt, pepper and spieces, and sprinkle with a spoonful of brandy.  Fill the carcass with a forcemeat, l50 g (5 oz) raw fole grass and the livers of the 2 ducks used.  Stuff the carcass so it is re-formed into its original shape.  Cover the duck with buttered greaseproof (wax) paper and tie it so that it will hold the forcemeat during cooking.  Place the stuffed duck on a baking sheet, coat with melted butter and roast in a preheated oven at 150°C (300°F, gas 2)for 30-35 minutes.  Remove the greaseproof paper and arrange the duck on a serving dish.

            Make some tarlet cases from short pastry (basic pie dough), bake blind, heap with a salpicon of truffles and mushrooms bound with concentrated Madeira sauce, and cover each with a slcie of duck breast filelt and a thick slice of truffle heated in butter.  Arrange the tartlets around the duck.  Serve with rouennaise sauce or Perigueux sauce.

            Instead of being used to fill the tarlets, the duck fillets can be cutinto thin slices and embedded in the mousselines.  The former are made in large charlotte mulds and the latter in small individual moulds.  They are poached in a bain marie in the oven.  The forcemeat can also be used for duck soufflé en timbole; put it in buttered soufflé timbale moulds and bake as for other souffies.

Wild duck a la tyrollenne

Stew some cooking apples, adding a little cinnamon and mace to form a hot aple puree. Stuff a wild duck with this puree, tie securely and place the duck on spit for roasting.  Boil 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar together with a small knob of butter (about the size of a walnut), l/2 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar and a few grains of coarsely ground pepper.  Baste the duck constantly with this preparation while it is cooking on the spit, placing a small pan beneath to catch the juices.  Cooking should take about 30-35 minutes.  When finished, take the duck off the spit, untruss and arrange on a dish.  Strain the collected juices into a saucepan and heat, adding l l/2 teaspoons redcurrant jelly.  Finally, pourthis sauce over the duck.

Wild duck a la Walter Scott

Draw, singe and trss a wild duck.  Cook in a pre-heated oven at 200°C (425°F, gas 7).  Meanwhile, fry the duck’s liver in butter, mash and mix it with 20 g (3/4 oz) foie gras.  Fry 2 croutons in clarified butter and spread them with the liver paste. Core 2 apples, stud each with 4 cloves and cook as for apples bonne femme.  Dilute some Dundee marmalade with 2 tablespoons whisky and heat gently.  When the duck is cooked, arrange it on a serving dish.  Remove the cloves from the apples and place the latter on the croutons, then pour the marmalade into the holes in the apples.  Arrange the croutons around the duck.  Serve the juice in a saucboat (gravy boat), without skimming off the fat.

Wild duck an Chambertin

Roast the duck for 18-20 minutes in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) or fry over a brisk heat, so that the flesh stays slightly pink.  Arrange on a serving dish and cover with Chambertin sauce to which the pan juices have been added.  Garnish with mushrooms and, if liked, with strips of truffle.

Duglere, adolphe.  French chef born Bordeau, l805; died paris, l880).  A pupil of Careme, he became head of the kitchens of the Rothschild family and later managed the restaurant les Preres Proveneauz.  In l866 he became head chef at the Café Anglais, with which his name is always associated.  He is described as a laciturn artist who reveled in contemplative isolation; and his culinary creations made the Café Anglais one of the most famous restaurants in Paris during the Second Empire. His creations included potage Germiny, Anna potatoes, sole and sea bream it la Duglere and soufflé a Panglaise.  It was Duglere who drew up the menu for the historic dinner of the “Three Emperors’.  Among the illustrious guests who attended were Alexander.  If the Russian emperor, his son the future Alexander III, Wilhelm I of Prussia (the German Emperor) and Bismarck.  The dinner, it is said, cost 100 francs a head.

Recipes

Bass a la Duglere

Butter a shallow flameproof dish.  Peel and chop l large onion, l-2 shallots, a small bunch of parsley, a garlic clove and, if liked (it is not traditional), l50 g (5 oz. L 2/3 cups) button mushrooms.  Skin, seed and chop 4 tomatoes.  Spread all these ingredients on the bottom of thedish, then add a sprig of thyme and half a bay leaf.  Scale a l kg ( 2 l/4 lb) bass and cut into sections.  Arrange these sections in the dish, dot with knobs of butter, moisten with 200 ml (7 fl. Oz, ¾ cup) dry white wine and cover with foil. Bring to the boil, then transfer to a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) and cook for 12-15 minutes.  Drain the pieces of bass and arrange on a serving dish in the original shape of the fish.

            Remove the thyme and bay leaf from the oven dish and add 2 tablespoons veloute made with fish stock.  Reduce by one-third, then add 50 g (2 oz. L/4 cup) butter.  (The veloute and butter may be replaced by l tablespoon beurre manie.)  Pour the sauce over the fish and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

            Sea bream and brill may be prepared and served in the same way.

Sole a la Duglere

Skin and clean a sole weighing about 500 g (18 oz) and prepare the ingredients as for bass a la Duglere, but halving the quantities.  Cook in the same way but reduce the cooking time in the oven to 7 minutes.  Drain the sole and keep it hot reduce the cooking liquidand thicken it with butter and veloute sauce made with fish stock.

DUMAINE, ALEXANDRE.  French chef (born Digoin, l895; died Digoin, l974)  At the age of l2 he became an apprentice at a hotel in Paray-le-Monial, and gradually worked his way up in the profession, eventually becoming grande toque (head chef) in such famous establishemtns as the Carton (in Vichy, then in Cannes), the Café de Paris and the Hotel Louvois in Pais, and the Oasis Hotel at Biskra.  In l932 he opened a restaurant at Saulieu, which, with the help of his wife, Jeanne, became a gastronomic shrine.  The Hotel de la Cote-d was with Point at Vienne and Pic at Valence, on of the three outstanding centers of provincial cuisine in France from 1930 to 1950.  After retiring in l964, Dumaine collaborated with Henry Cloy Jouve in producing Ma cuisine, a book of recipes and various reminiscences, from which the following recipes for braised beef and a coffee and chocolate ateau are taken.

RECIPES

Braised beef

Brown a joint of bee in a large pan.  Remove the joint and brown a large mirepoix of carrots and onions in the fat from the meat.  Brown some small pieces of bone from a join of veal and some chicken ones in butter.  Put into a braising pan with the skimmed mirepoix, the point of beef, a blanched pig’s foot and some crushed tomatoes.  Season withsalt and pepper, add 250 ml (8 fl. Oz. L cup)white wine and boil gently until all the liquid has evaporated.  Then add a bouquet garni and sufficient red wine and stock (l part wine to 2 parts stock) to cover three-quarters of the beef.  Cover and cook gently for 3 hours, turning the meat occasionally.

Gateau le prelat

Prepare l litre ( l ¾ pints, 4 l/2 cups) strong, lightly sweetened coffee, flavoured with white rum.  Allow to cool.  Beat together 2 whole eggs and 6 egg yolks, add 300 g (ll oz. L l/2 cups) sugar boiled to the thread stage and whisk until cold.  Blend in 300 g ( ll oz, 2 cups) melted butter (semisweet) chocolate pieces, some grated orange zest and 750 ml ( l l/4 pints, 3 l/4 cups) lightly whipped double (heavy) cream.  Mix well.

            Cover the buttom of a buttered rectangular mould with sponge fingers (ladyfingers)soaked in a little of the cold coffee.  Cover with some of the chocolate mixture.  Top with another layer of soaked sponge fingers and continue layering until the mould is full, finishing with a layer of sponge fingers.  Place in the refrigerator with a layer of sponge fingers.  Place itfor 24 hours before turning out of the mould.  Melt 450 g (l lb) dark chocolate and mix with l50 g (5 oz, 2/3 cup) butter and 2 tablespoons light oil. Coat the gateau with this mixture.

DUMAS, ALEXANDRE

FRENCH AUTHOR (BORN Villers-Cotterest, l802) died Dieppe, l870.  In l869 Dumas, best known as theauthor of The Three Musketeers and other historical romances, accepted an assignment from a young publisher, Alphonse Lemerre, to write a Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine.  To find the peace and quiet necessary to compile such a monumental work (ll52 pages).  Dumas retired to Roscoff (Finisterre)with this cook Marie.  The work was completed in March l870, a few weeks before his death, and was published in l872.  It is not considered to be a very reliable work from a strictly culinary point of view, in spite of the friendly collaboration of Joseph Vuillemot, a pupil of Carme, who published a revised and abridged version in l882.  But in spite of its errors, its gaps and its trenchant opinions, the work is written in an alert and amusing style and full of anecdotes.

            Dumas was a great habitué of Parisian restaurants, he had his own private room at the Maison Doree, and attended the “Brixio dinners”at Brevant-Vachette, the Rocher de Cancale, the Jockey club where his protégé Jules Gouffe presided, and theRestaurant de France in the Place de la Madeleine.  Here his friend Vullemot gave a famous dinner in h is honour which included lobster a la Porthos, ‘fillet of beef Monte Cristo,” salad, a la Dumas’ and gorenflot (rumsoaked sponge cake).

            Dumas made it a point of honour to dress the salad himself.  “I place in a salad bowl one hard broiled egg ;yolk for every two persons.  I pound it in oil tomake a paste, l then add chervil, crushed thyme, crushed anchovies, chopped gherkins, the chopped whites of the hard-boiled eggs, salt and pepper.   1 mix  it all with a good vinegar, then l put the salad into the salad bowl.  Then l call a servant and ask him to toss the salad.  When he has finished, l scatter a pinch of paprika over it.  It remains only to be served.   Another famous dumas salad was made with  truffles ‘peeled with a silver knife’ and seasoned, according to the mood of the h ost, with champagne, a liqueur or almond milk.

DUMPLING

A hall of dough, originally saoury and served as an accompaniment to meat or as a dessert.  Sweet versions are also prepared.

            A simple satisfying food, dumplings were boiled and served to extend small amounts of meat.  Originally made by shaping small portions from a hatch of bread dough before specific mixtures were developed using flour, cereals, pulses, stale bread, potatoes or cheese, sometimes with raising agent added or enriched with fat in theform of suet, were developed.  Local ingredients and methods are  used across Europe to make a variety of large or small dumpling, plain or flavoured with herbs, vegetables, spices or other ingredients.

            Germany (particularly Bavaria) and Austria in particuar are known for excellent examples, along with Czechoslovakia, Poland and Hungary.  Fresh or dry bread; mashed or grated raw potatoes, soft cheese; or semolina are just as likely to be used as flour and the dumpings may be bite-sized or large enough for slicing into portions.  The tradition in Czechoslovakian kitchens was to shape the bread-based dumpling mixture into a long, thick sausage on clean napkins and suspend it over simmering water or broth.  Instead of a knife, thedumpling was traditionally sliced with string, rather like cutting through a cheese with a wire.  Spinach, herbs, caraway or bacon may be added for flavour and the dough enriched with butter or eggs.  Finely chopped liver flavours leberknodel served Austrian-style in light broth r as a main dish in Germany.

            Dumplings are closely related to pasta.  Italian gnocchi are good examples of small dumplings usually grouped with pasta and the spatzle of Germany and Austraia, made from batter simmered until set in finger noddles, also hover between the two descriptions.  Polish plain or fileld dumplings are also very similar to gnocchi or filled pasta.

            In Britain dumplings were originally made with either a bread or suet dough and served with boiled beef and carrots and pease pudding.  Suet dough became more widely used, withregional variations on the basic dough developing.  Some doughs were unleavened, others used local cereals such as oats.  As well as being served with boiled meat, dumplings are traditional with soupsand stews. Sweet versions are also prepared, no longer as simple accompaniments but as dishes in their own right.  An apple dumpling (an apple encased I n pastry) is made with suet crust and boiled or with shortcrust pastry and baked.  Large fruit dumplings are not the only sweet option-they may be yeasted and cooked in milk; filled with small whole fruit (plums or cherries) or jam and simmered in water).

            In the United States, dumplings can accompany roast and boiled meat dishes.  Made with flour, baking powder. Egg and milk, they are shaped into walnut-sized balls and simmered very gently in vegetable soups, stews and beef and poultry consommés.  They may also contain commeal, potatoe puree, grated cheese or breadcrumbs.  Sweet-pastry dumplings sometimes made with a yeast dough are poached in fruit juice and served with compotes, fruit purees, melted butter or cream.  They are sometimes stuffed with fruit.

            The name dumpling is also used for Oriental specialtieis, such as the small filled dumplings of Chinese cookery, related more closely to pasta than to Euroepan in style dumplings.

Dunand.

The surname of two Swiss cooks, father and son, also spelt Dunan and Dunant.  The father was in charge of the kitchens of the Prince of Conde.  His son inherited the psot and, in l793, followed the prince into exile.  He returned to France l2 years later and entered the service of Napoleon I. Chicken Marengois attributed to himeven though the French victory over the Austrians tok place in l800, and dunand remained in the service f the Prince of Conde until l805.  On the other hand, it is known that Napoleon greatly enjoyed his crepinettes.

            On the fall of the Empire, Dunand went into the service of the Duc of Berry, but resumed his post with the emperor during the Hundred days.

DUNDEE CAKE.

A Scottish fruit cake.  This is a light cake, not as dark as the classic BritishChistmas or wedding cake, but rich with butter and still containing sufficient dried fruit to keep well for 2-3 months.  Flavoured with ground almonds and candied peel, the cake’s defining feature is a slightly domed top studded with neat concentric circles of whole blanched almonds.  The almonds are arranged on the uncooked cake tobecome a ich golden brown when baked.  Dundee cake is thought to have  originated in the l9th century, in the city of the same name, where it was made by Keller, the company known for orange marmalade.  The lefover orange peel from themarmalade was used up in the cakes, the manufacture of which rovided work when seasonal Seville oranges were not available and marmalade was out of production.  The commercial cakes were glazed with an orange syrup while still warm.  Later versions of the cake were sold in decorative tins and were popular alternatives to Christmas cake.

Dundee cake

Cream 225 g (8 oz. L cup) butter with 225 g (8 oz l l/4 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and the grated zest of l orange until pale and soft.  Sift 225 g (8 oz, 2 cups) self-raising flour with l00 g (4 oz, l cup) plain (all-purpose ) flour.  Beat 4 eggs with l-2 drops oil of bitter almonds.  Stir the eggs into thebutter mixture, adding the occasional spoonful of the sifted flours to prevent the mixture from curding.  Mix 225 g (8 oz l l/2 cups) each of raisins and sultanas (white raisins) with l00 g (4 oz,. ¾ cup) chopped mixed candied orange, lemon and citrus peel.  Add  l00 g (4 oz. Lcup)chopped blanched almonds, l00 g (4 oz, l cup) ground almonds and a spoonful of themeasured flours, then mix well.  Fold the remaining flour into the cake mixture, then stir in the fruit and almond mixture.

            Line and grease a 20 cm (8 in) round deep cake tip (pan) and turn the mixture into it.  Spread the mixture out eveny.  Cover the top with whole blanched almonds, starting with a circle around the edge and working in towards the middle.  Press the nuts lightly into the mixture placing them close together as they separate slightly when the cake rises during baking.  Bake in a preheated oven at l60oC (325oF, gas 3) for about 4 hours.  Cover the top of the cake loosely with foil, if necessary to prevent the nuts from becoming toodark.  Insert a clean metalskewer into the middle of thecake to check if it is cooked; if it has sticky  mixture on it, the cake is not ready, continue baking for l5 minutes before testing again.

            Leave the cake to cool in the tin (pan) for 30 minutes, then turn it out on to a wire rack and leave to cool completely.  Wrap the cake in grease-proof (wax) paper and place in an airtight container, then leave to mature for 2-4 weeks before serving.

DUNDEE MARMALADE

British preserve made frm butter Seville oranges by Keller a company in Dundee, Scotland, Mrs. Keller first created the sharp-sweet preserve and  ice  Her son set up the company and sd the preserve in its characteristic white pots.  By the mid to late l9th century, the company was making l.5 million jars of marmalade annually.

DURAD

A Parisian restaurants that was situated in the place de la madelene.  In the l800s according to a luchet, it was considered to be the third  wonder in the art of good living rather the café riche and thecake handy.  It was frequented bywriters and politicians, notably boulanger, anatole france and emile zola who wrote faccus there.  The chef vortion created  monry sauce in this restaurant.

DURAND CHARLES

FRENCH CHEF BORN ALES, L700 DIED NIMS, L850.  called the Careme of Provincial cooking, he was chef to the bishops  of Alex nunes and Montpellier before opening restaurants on Alex and Nunes, Cl80.  Above all, he was responsible for popularizing Frenchregional cuisine at a time when it was practically unknown elsewhere le Cuisimer (l8030) is a collection of authentic provencial recipes that enabled brandade dish of salt cod and ther specialtieis of the south to be enjoyed in Paris.

DURIAN

A tree that is widely cultivated in Southeast Asia, especially in Northern and the Philippiens for its fruit.  Durian fruits are round or oval up to 20 cm (8 in) with a har greenish rind covered with large thorns.  The flesh is whitish or coffee coloured with a creamy texture and a strong, unpleasant and distinctive smell that becomes nauseating when thefruit is overripe.  The flesh contains large seeds that are edible when cooked baked or roasted, when they may be eaten with rice.

            The fruit is ready to eat whenthe skin begins to  crack and is usually eaten raw either as an hors d’oeuvre or as a dessert.  Its flavour is complex and contradictory to those unfamiliar with a mixture of sweet.  Fruity characteristics  with it a mixture of sweet, with savoury lones almost cheese like but sometimes compared to garlic or cooked onion because of the alternaste.  It may also be eaten as a compote with sugar and fresh cream, and in Java, it is made into a fruit jelly with coconut milk.  Durian is also used to flavour confectionery, such as little boiled sweets candies in which its flavour is evident, but less intense.  The large shiny seals may be prepared in the same way as chestnuts.

DUROC

A dish dedicated to General Dutoc, a soldier at the time of the Empire.  It consists of small joints of meat or sautéed poultry garnished with new potatoes browned in butter, covered with crushed tomatoes and coated with chasseur sauce.

DURUM WHEAT

A type of hard wheat with a high gluten content valued particularly for making semolina and pasta.

DUSE.

A garnish named in honour of the great Italian actess. Eleonora Duse.  It consists of fresh green beans cooked in butter, with seeded steamed tomatoes and parmentier potatoes.  It accompanies large joints of meat.  The name is also given to poached stuffed fillets of sole arranged in a ring with rice coated with Mornay sauce and glazed.  The center is filled with a salpicon of shrimps bound with a white wine sauce and sprinkled with chopped truffles.

DUTCH CHEESES.

The best known utch cheeses are Edam and Grouda.  Heeses made in the Netherlands always carry a government control stamp which gives the name of the cheese, the fat content in the dry matter, the ountry of origin expressed as Holland the number indicating where, on what date, and from which curd batch the cheese was made, and the code of the relevant governement control station.  They are made only from pasterurized milk.

DUTCH OVEN.

A large, heavy cooking pot with a close fitting lid, authentically made of cast iron and hung over an open fire.  Thought  to be f l6th century Pennsylvania Dutch origin, the pot was used for stewing and braising, however, other types of dishes, such as breads, were also cooked in it.  the term has also been applied to a va riety of other utensils used for cooking over an open fire, including a type of plate or rack fitted to the ront of a fire grate and on which to stand cooking pans or dishes.  In modern terms, it is sometimes used for glazed pots for cooking in the oven or on top of the stove.

DUVAL, PIERRE-LOUS.

French butcher (born Montlbery, l8ll, died Paris, l870).  He supplied the Tuileries kitchens and wned several retail butcher’s shops in Paris.  In l860 he had the diea of creating a number of small restaurants serving a signle dish-boiled beef and consommé – at a fixed price.  The first boullon, in the Rue de Montesquieu, was soon fllowed by a dozen others.

            His son Alexandre successfully developed the chain of restaurants and made an immense fortune.  A well-known figure of Parisian life, n icknamed Godefroi de Boullon, by humorists of the time, he composed a Marche de petites hones in honour of his waitresses who all wore a colf of white tulle and, for the frist time, replaced the traditional gargons in restaurants.

DUXELLES.

A basic preparation of chopped muchrooms, onions and shallots sautéed in butter.  Duxelloes is used as a stuffing or garnish, as a complementary ingredient of a sauce, and in the preparation of various dishes called a la duxelles.  The derivation of the word is disputed some claim that duxelles was created at Uzel, a small town in the Gotesco-Nord, while others attribute it to la Varenne, chef of theMarquis d’uxelles.

Recipe

Preparation

Clean and trim 250 g (9 oz, 3 cups)button mushrooms and chop them finely, together with l onion and l large shallot.  Melt a large knob of butter in a frying pan and add the chopped vegetables, salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg (unless the duxelles is to accompany fish).  Cook over a brisk heat until the vegetables are brown and the water from the mushrooms has evaporated, if the duxelles is for use as a garnish, add l tablespoon cream.

Duxelles sauce

Prepare 4 tablespoons mushroom duxelles.  Add l00 ml (4 fl  oz. 7 tablespoons) white wine and reduce until almost completely dry.  Add l50 ml (l/4 pint, 2/3 cup) demi-glaced sauce and l00 ml (4 fl. Oz. 7 tablespoons) sieved tomatosauce. Boil (4 fl. Oz. 7 tablespoons) sieved tomato sauce.  Boil for 2-3 minutes, pour into a sauceboat (gravy boat), and sprinkle with chopped parsley.

            Alternatively, theduxelles may be moistened with l50 ml (l/4 pint, 2/3 cup) consommé and l00 ml (4 fl. Oz 7 tablespoons) sieved tomato sauced and thickened with l tablespoon beurre manie.

Eggs en cocttee a la duxelles

Prepare 4 tablespoons mushroom duxelles.  Butter 6 ramekin dishes and divide the duxelles between them.  Break an egg into each ramekin, then add to each a spoonful of single (light) cream, salt and pepper.  Cover with foil and cook the eggs in a bain marie on the hob (stovestop) for about 4 minutes.  Timing from when the water in thebain marie begins to boil

Omelette a la duxelles

Prepare  4 tablespoons mushroom duxelles with cream added.  Make an omelettewith 8 eggs and fill it with the duxelles.  Stud the omeltte with small fried crutons and serve with duxelles sauce.

Sautéed veal chosp a la duxelles

Prepare 4 tablespoons mushroom duxelles.  Saute 4 veal chops in butter.  When the chops are almost cooked, add the duxelles to the pan and complete the cooking over a low heat.  Drain the chops and arrange on a serving dish; keep hot.  Add l00 ml (4 fl. Oz. 7 tablespoons)double (heavy) cream and half a glass of white wine or 2 tablespoons Madeira to the duxelles in the pan and reduce until the mixture thickens.  Coat the chops with this sauce and serve very hot.