JACK. David Jacks created this soft and mild cheese
in the 1830s in America. It is matured
for a week. Good examples come from
Monterey and Sonoma in California. Dry
Jack is Monterey Jack, which has been aged for 7-10 months to give a much
sharper, nutty flavor.
JACKFRUIT. The fruit a tropical tree that originated in
India. Oval in shape and studded with
small protuberances, a jackfruit can weigh up to 30kg (67 lb.). The skin is bluish, pale green, yellow or
brown; the fresh is white or yellowish and full of large seeds. Blanched and then peeled. If is eaten in stews or baked in the oven as
a vegetable. The seeds are cooked in the
same way as chestnuts, either roasted or in a puree.
JACOB’S BATON. Baton de Jacob A small stick shaped éclair
filled with confectioner’s custard (pastry cream) and iced (frosted) with
fondant icing.
JALAUSIE. A small rectangular pastry consisting of a
strip of puff spread with vanilla flavoured marzipan (Almond paste) and topped
with a slatted pastry lid resembling a Venetian blind (jalousie in
French). Apple compote, apricot jam or a
fruit preserve can be used instead of the marzipan. The jalousie can also be made in the form of
one large pastry and fresh fruit fillings can be used.
RECIPE
Jalousies with apricot
jam
Roll our 500g (18 oz)
puff pastry into a rectangle about e mm (1/3 in) strips and cut it into 2 equal
strips about 10 cm (4 in) wide. Brush
all round the edges of one of the strips with beaten egg and spread 500 g (18
oz. 1 ½ cups) apricot jam in the center.
Fold the second piece of pastry in half lengthways, and with a knife
make slanting cuts from the folded side to within 1 cm (½ in) of the other
edge. Unfold the strip and place it over
the first one. Press the edges firmly
together to seal them, trimming if necessary to a neat rectangle, then make
decorative indentations with the point of a knife. Brush the top with beaten egg, put in a
preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6), and bake for 25-30 minutes. When it is
done, brush the top lightly with apricot jam that has been mixed with double
its volume of water and boiled to reduce it slightly: finally, sprinkle the top
with caster (superfine) sugar.
Cut the strip into 4 cm
(1 ¾ in) slices and serve warm or cold.
JAMBALAYA A specialty
of New Orleans, inspired paella and made of highly spiced rice, chicken and
ham. Various ingredients can be added; for example, sausage, peppers, tomatoes,
prawns (shrimp) or oysters.
RECIPE
Chicken
jambalaya
Poach
a chicken in stock, then drain. When it is quite cold., remove the skin and
bones, weight the meat, and dice finely. Sauté haft this weight of row diced
ham in 50 g (2oz, ¼ cup) butter over a low heat, with the pan covered. While it
is cooking. Prepare some rice*
A la racquet
using 300-400 g (12-14 oz, 2 cups) uncooked rice and the stock from the
chicken. When the ham is cooked, add the diced chicken together with some
cayenne. Salt ‘
JAMBE DE BOIS
And
pepper so that the mixture is highly seasoned. Finally, add the rice, mix
Everything together thoroughly, and serve very
hot.
JAMBEE
DE BOIS. The French term for shin or
knuckle of beef (beef shank) left on the home, when used as an ingredient of a
pot-au-feu. In former times, the
preparation of potage it la jamb de bois was a major undertaking according to a
recipe from 1855 it required a chicken, a brace of partridges, 1 kg (2 lb)
boned fillet of veal and a variety of vegetables. The dish came originally from Lyon.
JAMBONNEAU. The French name for the knuckle end of a ham
or pork leg. It is eaten fresh,
semi-salted or smoked. Braised or
poached like ham, but for a longer time, it is served with Sauer kraut and used
in thick soups. It can be bought ready
cooked and skinned.
The name jambouneau is also given to a preparation of
stuffed chicken thigh, because of its similar shape. Bone plump uncooked chicken thighs, making
only one cut so as so keep them as intact as possible. Spread with a little forcemeat and reshape
the things the thighs so that they look like small ham knuckles. Tie them in shape and braise until cooked
through.
JAMBONNETTE. Cooked charcusterie made from pork shoulder
(50 – 60%) and bacon (40 – 50%) chopped seasoned and enclosed in rind to make a
pear shape. A jambonnette can be
famished and glazed in the same way as a gala mine.
JAM, JELLIES AND
MARMALADES. Sweet preserves in which the
high sugar content acts as a preservative.
Jellies and marmalades are set; the majority of jams are set but some
are less firm than others and day
Others and they may be less firm than jellies
or marmalades. Some jams can be quite
soft, of a thick flowing consistency, and in these are usually referred to as
conserves. A homemade conserve has
pieces of fruit in thick, fruity syrup.
(Commercially, conserve refer to a high quality jam, usually with a high
proportion of fruit.)
The art of jam making began in the Middle East. It was
introduced into Europe by the crusaders, who had discovered cane sugar and
certain previously unknown fruits. In North America, jelly is generally used as
the term for jam.
·
Keeping
quality These
preserves rely on the right balance of ingredients for a good set and to ensure
that they keep well. Keeping quality depends on a high proportion of sugar to
prevent the growth of moulds or fermentation. They are poured into sterilized
pots and wax paper discs cover the surface of the preserve to exclude air. An
airtight lid is used to prevent microorganism from entering the pots during
storage. With the right ingredients and potting, preserve will keep for several
moths (or longer) in a cool, place without the need for refrigeration. Once the
pots are open, the preserve is best stored in the refrigerator. Low-sugar
preserves are prepared commercially but they are sterilized in their containers
once opened they do not have a long shell life.
It is not possible to produce this type of low sugar preserve without
the right processing.
·
Setting
quality Pectin, a gum-like
substance contained in the cells walls of plants, is essential for a good set.
Cooking the fruit breaks down the cell walls to release the pectin. Acid, found
naturally in some fruit or added in the form of lemon juice, helps to release
the pectin. When boiled with sugar, the pectin forms a gel that sets. To
achieve a good set there must be sufficient pectin, with enough acid and the
right concentration of sugar. If there is too little or too much sugar, the
preserve will not set.
The
pectin content of the fruit can be checked by placing teaspoonful a of the
cooked plump (before the sugar is added) in a little methylated spirits and
swilling it around in an old jar or container. Fruit with high pectin content
will clump together with one clot: that with a medium content will form a few
clots: fruit with a low pectin content will clump in lost of small pieces
rather than large clots. Commercial pectin is available as a powder, liquid or
in combination with sugar. This product can be added to low-pectin fruit to
make set preserves- follow the manufactures instructions for adding the pectin.
After the running invervention the family will:
A. Be able to
ensure that they are practicing proper hygiene everyday
B. Be able to
discuss the importance of hygiene
C. Apply the
procedures in maintaining proper hygiene
●The choice of fruits certain regions
and towns in France have made a speciality of a particular jam: for example,
redcurrant jam from Bar-le-Duc, bilberry (chuckle berry) jam from Alsace, and
green tomatojam from Provence. In bretain many types of fruit are grow from jam
in the vale of eves ham, Kent and Essex. Specialty jams, such as mulberry,
quince and meddler, are grown and made in the tip tree area.
To make good preserves, the fruit should be sound and not
overripe. Fruit contains the maximum pectin when it is underripe, but its
flovours is weak. Often the best solution is to combine a small proportion of
underripe fruit with ripe produce. Over ripe fruit has poor flavour and pectin
content. Pears, peaches, apricots, strawberries and raspberries should be
slightly underripe, while plumps and cherries should be just ripe but still
full-flavored. Combining fruits rich in pectin with other low in pectin is a
good way of achieving an interesting flavour and a good set. Example of fruit
with good pectin contents includes cooking apples and crab apples quinces,
blackcurrants, redcurrants, physalis, lemons, Seville or bitter oranges and
gooseberries. Plums, raspberries blackberries, loganberries and grapes have
medium pectin content. Strawberries, apricots, peaches, pears, rhubarb, kiwi
fruit, sweet oranges and cherries have a low pectin content. Fruit with a
medium or low pectin content can still be used to make conserves with a
excellent flavour, but they have a soft set or flowing texture. The same method
should be used and the conserve should a high proportion of sugar to ensure it
keeps well. Similarly. the boiling time should be 5-8 minutes.
The flavour of jam can be enhanced by spices (vanilla and
cinnamon), a little alcohol (rum and kirsch), caramel (for apples),or another
fruit of more robust flavour (peaches, raspberries, cherries, redcurrants,
mixed citrus fruits, rhubath and strawberries).
The colour may be deepened by adding blackberries or raspberries to peaches
and melon. Watermelon, tomatoes, fresh
walnuts, mango, guavaand coconut can also be used well as small wild fruits,
such as haws, eldeyberries, blackberries, bilberries and rosechips. At one time flowers (such as violets, roses
and pumpkin flowers) and many spices (especially ginger) were used and rose
petals are still an important ingeridient for some sweet preserves. Lastly, there is milk jam, which does not
contain fruit. Widely eaten in South
America, where it is known as dolce de lecher (milk sweet), it is made by
slowly reducing sweetened vanilla orcinmamon-flavored milk.
·
Utensils. In addition to the usual kitchen equipment, a
large, wide proving pan is useful for boiling large qualities of sweet
preserves. It should be heavy and made
of material that will not react with the acid in the fruit – stainless steel is
ideal. Copper and alumni should not be
used as these metals next with fruit and contaminated the preserve. (At one time, copper was favored because the
reaction between the metal and fruit produced a sparkling preserve, but this
was before the risks of metal contamination were fully appreciated).
As
well as the ability to withstand boiling sugar at high temperature without
burning the preserving pan allows a large surface area for evaporation, so that
the excess water rapidly evaporates and the sugar concentrates quickly, which
reduces the boiling time. This helps to
give the preserve good colour and flavour, which are spoilt by prolonged
boiling.
A
long handled spoon is useful for stirring in the initial stages of cooking. A wide necked funnel makes potting far
easier, allowing the preserve to be ladled into the pots with speed. The pots
should be hear resistant and have airtight, acid-resistant lids. they should be
clean and freshly sterilized (a liquid sterilizing solution of the type used
for cleaning baby feeding equipment is recommended). Wax paper discs are
essential for covering the surfafe of
the preserve- they come in size to match different jars.
A
jelly bag is used to strain the cooked fruit for making jellies. This is fine
enough to allow the juice through but not the fibers or pulp that spoil the
clarity of the preserve. A special stand allows the bags to be hung with case.
▪ Sugar as a rule, for fruit with good pectin content use
an equal weight of sugar. The weight of sugar may be increased slightly for
fruit with very high pectin content. If too little sugar is used, the jam may
ferment and will not keep. If there is too much sugar. The jam is too
concentrated and tends to crystallize
ordinary white granulated sugar can be used. Preserving
sugar has large crystal that dissolve more slowly and produce less scum. Lump
sugar or sugar cubes may be used and some cooks prefer these, again for their
slow dissolving and reduced scum sugar with added pectin is especially useful
for setting fruit with a low to medium pectin content.
·
Cooking stages.
There are key stages for the majority of sweet preserves – cooking the
fruit, dissolving the sugar, then boiling.
Testing for setting is important to determine whether the preserve has
boilet down to the right sugar concentration.
Following a few simple rules at each stage will help to ensure good
results.
·
Coking the fruit. The first stage is to cook the fruit until it
is completely tendet before adding sugar.
This is essential as adding the sugar before the fruit is tender will
toughen the skins. This stage is also
essential for releasing the pectin in the fruit and, to assist this process,
lemon juice is added to those fruit that are not naturally very addic. Water may be added or a very little sugar may
be sprinkled over some juicy fruit to help release the juice and prevent the
fruit from burning.
The trimming – peel,
pith and seeds – are tied in a muslim (cheesecloth) bag and boiled with the
fruit. They are a valuable source of
pectin. When thoroughly cooked, the
should be squeezed into the pan of fruit to extract all the juice from the
trimming.
When making mamalde,
the rind may be prepared and cooked with the fruit juices in a large proportion of water for a fine
result, or the chopped fruit may be used for a courase mamalade. Cirus fruit require lengthy cooking until
quite soft before the sugar is added, otherwise the rind becomes very tough
during boiling.
·
ADDING THE SUGAR. When the fruit is completely tender, the
sugar is added and the preserve is cooked slowly, stirring often, until the
sugar has dissolved completely. A little
additional lemon juice can be added at this stage as it helps to give the jam a
good colour and sparkling appearance.
·
BOILING.
When the sugar has discolved, the preserve should be brought to a fast
boil, known as a full rolling boil. It
should not be stirred as this encourages the sugar to crystallize. The boiling
is continued until setting point is reached.
This depends on the concentration of sugar, which can be measured by
checking the temperature using a sugar thermometer. This can take between 5 and 10 minutes, but
it should not take more than about 15 minutes or the preserve will taste
overcooked and have a poor colour.
·
Testing for setting. Check the temperature of the preserve when it
has been boiling for 3-5 minutes. Most
preserves set at about 104°C (220VF).
When this temperature is reached, remove the jan from the heat and try a
saucer test. Please a litte of the
preserve on a cold succer and leave it in a cool place for a few minutes. A distinct skin develops when the preserve
has reached setting point – push the little puddle of preserve with your finger
and the surface should wrinkle quite distinctly. The other useful sign that the preserve has
readhed setting point is when it forms flakes on the edge of a spoon – try
dipping the stirring spoon into the preserve in the pan and then hold it at an
angle and allow the preserve to run off.
The last of the preserve should begin to set in flakes on the edge of
the spoon and run off more slowly, forming wide drips.
Do not overcook the
preseve – if it boils for toolong, it will become syrupy and will not set. Over boiled preserve has a dark colour, poor
texture and poor flavour.
·
Potting.
The clean pots should be sterilized and warm. Use a sterilizing solution to thoroughly
clean the pots, then place then on a folded tea-towel (dish-towel), on a baking
sheet or masting pan, in a warm oven for a few minutes so that they are just
too hot to hold.
The majority of
preserves should be potted immediately they reach setting point. If the pan has been removed from the heat for
any length of time while testing for setting, then return it to the hear and
bring the preserve just back soothe boil.
Remove it from the heat immediately and pot the preserve. Ladle the preserve into the hot pots and
cover immediately with discs of waxed paper, placing the waxed side down and
ensuring there are no air bubble between the preserve and paper. Cover immediately with airnight lids,
screwing them on firmly.
Fine mamalade, with
shreds of rind, should be cooled for a few minutes before potting, otherwise
the rind will float. When a fine skin
begins to form on the surface of the marmalade in the pan, stir it, and the
shreds should dispense evenly and remain in suspension. The mamalade is ready for potting ladle it
into the heated pots and cover its surface with waxed discs but do not put
hilds on the pots. Leave the mamalade to
stand undisturbed (moving or shaking the pots may cause the rind to float)
until completely cold. Then cover with
with airright lids. If lids are placed
on the pots when the preserve has cooled slightly, condensation form inside the
jam and this provides the right environment in which mould will grow later.
Label the jars with the
type of preserve and the date on which it was prepared. Store in a cool, dark place.
·
Jullies Fruits with a good pection content are
essential for a jelly with a good set.
Fruits with only a moderate pection content will make a soft, floppy
jelly. Since the fruit pulp is strained
and the solids discarded, there is no need to prepare the fruit to the same
extent as for other preserves. Some of
the kennels from stone fruits, such as apricots, can be cooked with the fruit
for the almond flavour they contribute, but onlu a small number should be added
as they contain cyanogens, compouinds that produce cyanide.
The fruit is cooked as
for other preserves, sometimes with slightly more water added than usual. The pulp is then strained through a jelly bag
for several hours or overnight. It is
essential that the bag is not disturbed or squeezed as this will make the jelly
cloudly. Although the juice looks cloudy
at this stage, it clears when boiled with sugar.
The juice is measured
and sugar added according to the volume – usually 450 g (1 lb, 2 cups) sugar to
600 ml (1 pint, 2 ½ cups) juiced when fruit with a high pection content has
been used. The sugar is dissolved as
when adding to other preserves and the preserve is boiled in the same way. Testing for setting and potting are also the
same as for preserve with whole fruit.
·
Uses Jams, jellies and mamalades are eaten with
bread, toast, brioches or other types of rolls for breakfast and snacks. They are also used to accompany desserts
(rice pudding, bread pudding, poached fruits, iced desserts, pancakes, waffles)
and to fill or cover cakes, to flavour yogurt and soft cream cheese (such as
fomage frans), and to make sauces for desserts.
Jams also accompany meant; red fruits with game; orange with dock or
pork, for example.
RECIPES
Apple jelly
Take 3 kg (61/2 lb)
tart apples with a good flavour or a mixture of apples, such as crab apples, or
cooking apples and dessert apples, including Braeburn, Coxs or Granny
Smiths. Wash and quarter then without
peeing or coring. Place the quarters in
a saucepan containing 3 litres (5 pints, 13 cups)
Continue cooking
stirring until the fruit is soft. Add
the sugar and heat gently, stirring often, dissolved completely. Bring to a full boil without stirring and
boil until setting is reached. Skin pot
and cover.
JAPANESE QUINCE. The fruit of an ornamental Japanese tree or
shrub with clusters of red flowers. The
Japanese quince is a juicy greenish oval fruit, which tastes rather like a
lemon. The fruit is very hard and ripens
in the autumn. It is not sold
commercially and is edible only when cooked.
Japanese quinces are usually mixed with apples to make a jelly, using
three parts by weight of quinces to one part of apples.
JAPONAISE, A LA. In classic French cuisine, this name is given
to various dishes containing Chinese artichokes (called Japanese artichokes in
French). It applies particularly to
large cuts of roast meat garnished with Chinese artichokes braised in butter or
cooked with the meat juices and demi-glace or to a filled omelette. Francillon salad is known as Japanese salad
when Chinese artichokes replace the potatoes, but there is another Japanese
salad. This is served as an hors docurve
and conbines diced tomato, pineapple and orange on lecture leaves, covered with
crème fraiche to which lemon juice has been added, and sprinkled with
sugar. Finally, there is a bombe called
japonaise. Consisting of peach ice cream
filled with tea mousse.
RECIPE
Filled omelette a la
japonaise
Clean 300g (11 oz.)
Chinese artichokes and blanch for 3 minutes in boiling water, drain, rinse and
wipe dry. Braise over a low heat in a
covered pan without browning, add salt, pepper and a little cream sauce. Make an omelette with 8 eggs and fill it with
the artichoke mixture. Fold the omelette
and slide it on to the serving dish; sprinkle with chopped parsley. The rest of the cream sauce is served
separately in a sauceboat.
JARDINIERE. A mixture vegetables, essentially carrots,
tumips and French beansm served as a garnish for roast or saureed meat,
casseroled poultry, braised calves’ sweethbreads, and similar dishes. Carrots and tumings are cut into chunks 3-4
cm ( 1 ¼ - 1 ½ in) long, trimmed to a reular shape. Cut into slices 3-4 mm ( ½ in) thick, then
cut again into matchsticks 3-4 mm (1/4 in) wide, the French beans are cut into
chunks, sometimes diamond shaped, 3 –4 cm (1 ½ in) long. The vegetables are cooked separately, then
mixed with garden pears and bound together with butter. The jardinière often also includes flagender
beans and small cauliflower flonets.
Meat juices or some clear veal
stock can be added. A jandiniere can
also consist of a simple mucedcine of vegetables.
RECIPE
Flat omelette a la
jardinière
Prepare a standard
jardinière, cooking the ingredients in water on in consommé and making sure
that they retain their crispness. Add
some cooked peas and tiny cauliflower florets cooked in the same way. Brown gently in melted butter in a large pan,
adding salt and pepper. Beat some eggs
as for an omelette, adding a pinch of salt and pepper, and pour over the
vegetables; cook like a thick
pancake. Garnish with steamed asparagus
tips and coat with cream sauce.
JARLSBERG. This is an old Norwegian cheese which was
revived in the 1950s. it is a cooked and
pressed cheese, rather similar to Emmental, with a dry nutty taste but without
the complexity of Emmental. The trecture
is quite and rubbery, and there are numerous large holes in the paste.
JASMINE. A sweetly scented flower used mostly in the
perfume industry. In the Far East,
sambac jasmine is used to perfume tea, while
Chinese jasmine is used in pastry making and cooking.
RECIPE
Red mullet with jasmine
Gut, trim and clean the
mullet. Remove the backbone Stuff the
fish with a mousse made of whiting flesh bound with cream and flavoured with
essence (extract) of jasmine. Wrap each
fish in buttered paper and cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for
25 minutes. Take the fish out of their
wrapping and arrange them on a hot dish.
Cover with a tomato-flavoured white wine sauce.
JASNIERES. An AOC dry white from the Goteanux – du-loir
in Touraine. It is made from the Chenin,
blanc grape. Some dry or sweet
botryrised wines are occasionally made.
JELLY. A cold dessert made of fruit juice, wine or
liqueur to which sugar and gelatine are added and left to set a dish or dishes
or in a mould. There are also savoury
jellies, made from fresh vegetable juice. Commercial jelly tablets and crystals
are available for making jelly desserts but these contain mostly sugar,
flavouring and colouring.
The term jelly is also used to describe a
strained, clear, set fruit preserve. See jam, jellies and marmalades.
JEREPICO A vin doux natured produced in South Africa,
usually from Muscadelle.
JERASALEM
ARTICHOKE A perential plant cultivated
for its edible tubers, which are cooked and eaten as a vegetable or used in
distilling.The French name (topinambour) is the name of a small tribe in
Brazil, but in fact the vegetable originated in North America and was
introduced into France in the 17th century by Samuel de
Champlain.Called pommes de terre by Nicolas de Bonnefons and poires de terre by
Lemery, because they are born in the earth, attached to the branches of the
root which beans them, the tubers are knobbly and quite difficult to peel.
Fairly firm in consistency, they have a taste
similar to that of globe artichokes.They are boiled, steamed or braised with
butter and can be served with cream or bechamel sauce, sprinkled with parsley,
or used in salads, fried in batter, pureed or souffleed.
RECIPES
Jerusalem artichokes a
I anglaise
Peel some jerusalem
artichokes, cut into quarters, and trim to egg shapes if they are large. Blanch
for 5 minutes in boiling water, they dry them. Cook gently in butter in a
covered pan for about 30 minutes. Stir in a few
tablespoons of light bechamel sauce or double (heavy) cream and simmer
for about 10 minutes. Serve as a garnish for veal, for example, sprinkled with
chopped chervil and tarragon.
Jerusalem artichoke pie
with foie gras and truffle.
Peel and finely cut
575g (1 ¼ lb) pink Jerusalem artichokes into slices 3 mm (1/8 in) thick. Cook
in stock for 5 minutes, then drain.Slice 50 g (2 oz) truffles very finely.Cut
very thin slices across the with of a lobe of foie gras. Season with salt and
pepper, and add some nutmeg. Line the bottom and sides of well buttered medium
sized souffle mould with the slices of jerusalem artichoke. Place a thin layer
of truffle on top, then a layer of foie gras. Repat the layering until all the
ingredients are used up and cover with foil. Press down with a smaller
mould.Cook in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 180 oC (350 oF gas 4) for 20
minutes. Unmould on to a serving dish and pour over a warm vinaigrette made
with walnut oil and sherry vinegar, flavoured with chervil or flat leafed
parsley.
Salad of Jerusalem
artichokes
Prepare like a potato
salad, using small new jerusalem artichokes, cooked in water for 20 minutes,
peeled and cut into uniform pieces. Dress with a sunflower oil vinaigrette
seasoned with shallot and sprinkle with plenty of parsley.
JESSICA
Stock for 5 minutes
then drain. Slice 50 g (2 oz) truffles
very finely. Cut very thin slices across the width of a lobe of foie gras. Season with salt and pepper, and add some
nutmeg. Line the bottom and sides of a
well-buttered medium-sized souffe mould with the slices of Jerusalem artichoke. Place a thin layer of truggle on top, then a
layer of foie gras. Repeat the layering until all the ingredients
are used up and cover with a smaller mould.
Cook in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) for 20
minutes. Unmould on to a serving dish
and pour over a warm vinaigrette made with walnut oil and sherry vinegar,
flavoured with chervil or fiar-leafed parsley.
Salad of jerisalem
artichokes
Prepare like a potato
sald, using small new Jerusalem artichokes, cooked in water for 20 minutes,
peeled and cut into uniform pieces.
Dress with a sunflower oil vinaigrette seasoned with shallot and
sprinkle with plenty of parsley.
Additional recipe
JESSICA. A gamish for poulty supreme, veal escalope
scallaopso or grenarion (small slices of fillet of veal interlanded with best
landing bacon), and soft boiled eggs. It
consists if small artichokes braised in butter and filled with a salpicon of
bone narrow with shallows, and minels sauced in butter, both arranged on
tartlets make from anna potatoes. These
are accompanied by an alternade sauce enriched with thickened veal stock and
flavoured with trudle essence (extract).
An omelette Jessica is filled with sliced morels and asparagus lips
bound with cream, then folded and surrounded with a ribbon of Chateubrian
sauce.
JESUITE. A small triangular puff pastry filled with
marzipan (almondpaste) and covered with royal icing (frosting). Formerly, these pastries were covered with a
dark coloured perline or chocolate icing shaped like the hat, with a rolled
brim, wong by the Jesuits.
JESUS. A large sauage made in Franche Crème
(especially at Morteay) and in Switche, consisting of coansely chopped pork (or
sometimes pork and beef) enceased in the wides part of the got. It has a small wooden hook inserted in the
end so that it can be hung up to be lightly smoked. A marteuos (or sanccione de Morteam) is one
that is mae in the same way in Alsace and the Jura. Both these sausges can be poached and used to
garnish thick soups, but they are also used in particular regional recipes.
RECIPE
Jesus a la vigneronne
Make a coure-bouillon
with 2 lites (3 ½ pints, 9 cups) Arbols wine, 2 litres (3 ½ pints 9 cups)
water, 2 peeled onions each sudded with 2 cloves, a bouquet garni, salt and
pepper. Simmer for 1 hour. Place a handful of wine shoors in the
pan. Prick 1 or 2 jeus with a fork and
rest them on the vine soots so they are just above the surface of the liquid;
leave them to cook in the steam from the court bouillon. Serve with butter and baked potatoes.
Red wine can be used instead of the Arbois, and red or
white haricot (ravy) beans, according to the colour of the wine, can be
substituted for the potatoes.
JEWISH COOKERY. Jewish cookery is closely lanmked to
religious feast days ad the Sabbath, but it inciorportes culinary specialities
from all the countries of the Diaspora.
It is a family based art, with a unity derived from ancident
traditions. The rules imposed by the
landrubs do not in any way limit the variety of dishes, they movely ensure that
food is completely fresh: (only beef and matton) is carefully washed, then
salted and seared to remove any blood (see bosbery). Tradition plays a great part; for example,
the fish prepared on Friday for Saturday meal is eaten fried by eastern Jews
and stuffed by European jews eggs, symbols of totality and death, are part of
manu feast day dishes honey is a reminder of the Promised Land Plated bread
(batlab) is a reminder of the sacrificial bread. Even the shape of some foods can relate to a
biblical character, like the eans of Human, a cake served at the feast of
Purim. Fasts (at least theree of 24
hours duration during the year) are the excuse for some splendid feast before
and after although Jewish religious precepts forbid greed and domikemens, they
do not condemn good eating.
The cooking of the Sephardic Jews (from Mediter cancern countries and of the
Ashkenazi Jews (from central Europe) is derived from a common source, for
example, the tchoulend of the latter and the fina of the former (meat and
begetable stews) are both cooked in the baker’s oven so as to exnsure a hot
meal on Saturday, when the religious laws forbid the lighting of a fire. However, tastes have been strongly influenced
by the foods that are available in the region and the local recipes. North Africa Jews enjoy conscious. Italian Jews like to eat gifted (os stomack
stuffed rice) and pilaf; Ashkeman Jews cook potatoes puddings (leuged) and pasta
(such as lockaben, noodles made with water ad lenglech, pasta filled with meat)
as well as Autrian and Russian dishes (borsh, strudel and sorten). On the whole, Jewish cookery reliefs a great
deal on frying, for example in stuffed carp, onions with sugar and meat (a dish
served at Sephantic wedding feats), and the Moroccan pastelas, pastry rossoles
stuffed with meat, honey and vegetables.
Since Israel became an independent nation it has
developed its own native cuisine. Each
wave of immigrants tends to retain its ethnic cookery, but in everyday life
Israels eat simply; their mealts are based mainly on raw begetable
(particularly cucumbers and avocados), dairy produce and citrus fruits. Like their Middle Eastern neighbours, they
are fond of vwegetable purcees and spiced meathallis. Israel farmers rear large numbers of turkeys
ad ducks, of which they have developed a new breed. They also export foie gras.
JEW’S EAR FUNGUS autriculaire crelle-de judas. A balckish mushroom shaped like an ear lobe
that gfows in chusters on old tree trunks.
Its body is pantry hand and pantry jelly-like. It was originally eaten raw in salad, but is
now mainly served in Chinese restaurant in france under the name of champignon
noir (black mushroom).
JOHANNISBERG. A world famous white wine from the
Rheinegau. The best know veniyard being
that os Schloss johannisberg. There is
also a Swiss Johannisbers made from the Sylvaner grape, whereas the great
Rheingans wines are all Rheinriesling.
The term often used in Calofornia for the Rheiriesling is Johannisberger
Riesling.
JOHN DORY. An oral deep-sided fish found along rocky
coasts. Only 30-50 cm (12-20 in) long.
It has a large head with an enomous muth and a prominent lower jaw, and the
dorsal fin is extended into filaments, the other fins are soiky. On each side of the body, which is bronize coloured
with silvery glints, is a large black spot.
This pot, according to tradition, is the thunbprint of St peter, who
seized the fish to thriw it back into the water because it was meaning (which,
in fact, it does when removed from the water).
Tradition also has it that the apostle took a coin from the fish mouth,
on jesus instruction (if should be pointed out.
However, that the Sea of Galilee, which is a freshwater lake, does not
harbour this fish).
The John Dory rarely provides more than four servings,
since enomous head, the fins and the bones account for nearly 60 % of its
weight. Nevertheless, it is one of the
best sea fish; its firm white flesh comes off the bone easily and can be used
for many different dishes. It can be
cooked like turnbot or brill, is used in bouillabraise and fish soups, and many
chefs have created original recipes for it.
The English name is a corruption of one of its French
nickname Jean-Ddore.
RECIPE
Fillets of John Dory
palais-royal
Poach some John dory
filelts in a mixture of white wine, fish fumer and the juice of a lemon. Boil some potatoes in their skins, peel them,
mash thenm and put in a greased ovenproof dish.
Place the fillers on top. Using
part of the reduced court bouillon, make some Mornay sauce, pour it over the
fish and brown in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°C gas 7).
Grilled John Dory with
deep-fried butter pats.
Cut 8 rounds of very
cold, slightly salted butter, each weighing 25 g (1 oz). Thickly coat them in breadcrumbs and chill
them in the refrigerator. Fritter a John
dory, then grill (broil) it. just before
serving, carefully place the rounds of butter into hot deep fat. As soon as they are golden, drain on paper
towels and quickly arrange on top of the portions of fish. Garmish the dish with fried parsley and serve
straight away.
John Dory fillets in a
soufflé
Stream 4 John dory
fillets, each weighing 150 g (5 oz). For
4 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and
pepper. Whisk 8 egg whites until stiff
and fold in 3 tablespoons mustard.
Arrange the fillets in an evenproof dish, pile up the egg whites on top,
and cook in a preheated oven at 230°C (450°F, gas 8) for about 4 minutes.
John Dory fillets with
lemon
Fillet a John Dory
weighing about 1.25 kg (2 ¼ lb). This
should provide 600g (1 lb 6 oz) flesh.
Remove the skin and cut the flesh into 1 cm ( ½ in) dice. Finely shred the zest of 2 lemons, blach and
refresh it, then cook it in a little water and 50 ml (2 ft oz. ¼ cup) olive
oil. Remove the white pith from the
lemons, break up the lemon segments and dice them. Cut 350 g (12 oz) courgettes (zucchini) into
small pieces, trim them to the shape of olives and blach them.
Lightly grease 4 pieces of foil large enough to wrap
round a piece of fish and some vegetables.
On each one place a quarter of the fish, courgettes, lemon dice and
rind, 20 g (1/2 oz. 1 ½ tablespoon) butter, and some salt and pepper. Seal the foil envelopes and bake in a
preheated oven at 230°C (450°F, gas 8) for about 8 minutes. Open the enelopes and sprinkle with chopped
chives.
John Dory fillets with
melon
Fillet a John weighing
about 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb) and quickly sauce the fillets in a nonstick frying pan
without fat, allowing 2 minutes for each side.
Keep the fillets warm. Blanch a
julienne of 2 carrots and 1 leek for 1 minutes in boiling water. Pat them dry and sauce briskly in 20 g ( ¼
oz. 1 ½ tablespoons) butter for 2 minutes.
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and keep warm.
In another pan, fry
slices of a 400 g (14 oz) melon in 25 g ( 1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter, sprinkle
with salt and pepper, and allow to caramelize slightly. Arrange a quarter of the melon slices and a
John Dory fillet in a ring on each plate, place a spoonful of the vegetables in
the center, and sprinkle with fresh chopped mint.
John Dory fillets with
red peppers
Fillet a John
Dory. Braise the fillets in fish fumer
they should be just cooked. Arrange them
on a dish and keep warm. Reduce the
braising liquid, add 200 ml (7 fl. Oz. ¼ cup) double (heavy) cream, and reduce
once again. Remove from the heat, add 3
tablespoons hollandaise” sauce, and adjust the seasoning. Bake 4 whole red (bell) peppers in a
preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) or put under the grill (broiler) until
the skin blackens and blisters. Peel and
seed them and puree the flesh in a blender.
Season with salt and pepper and heat the puree. Coat the fish with the sauce and with 4
tablespoons pepper puree. Garnish with
springs of chervil. Serve with French (green) beans.
John Dory steaks in
whisky veloute sauce with vegetable julienne.
Filler 2 John Dorys,
each weighing 1.25 kg ( 2 ¼ lb). Grease
an evenproof dish and sprinkle it with 2 finely chopped shallots. Season the fillets with salt and pepper and
by them in the dish. Moisten with 7
tableshpoons dry white wine and 7 tablespoons whisky. Cover with buttered greaseproof (wax) paper
and bake in a preheated oven at (180°C (350 °F, gas 4) for 10 – 12 minutes.
Drain the fillets and
reduce the cooking liquid by one-third.
Remove from the heat, whisk in 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) butter in small
places, then add 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) whipped double (heavy) cream. Mix well, still off the heat. Put the fish back in the oven or under the
grill (broiler) for 2 minutes them coat with the sauce.
Serve the fish with streamed potatoes and a vegetable
julienne made with 2 carrots, I celery heart, the white parts of 2 leeks; a
bulb of fresh fennel and 4 large mushroom cups.
John Dory with rhubarb
Fillet a John Dory
weighing 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb) and cook the fillets in a little butter over a gentle
heat, allowing minute for each side.
Keep warm. Add 150 g (5 oz)
rhubarb, peeled and thinly sliced, to the butter in which the fish was cooked,
and cook for 30 seconds. Add 200 ml (7
fl oz. 2.4 cup) double (heavy) cream and reduce by half. Season with salt and pepper and add a pinch
of sugar and pinch of chopped basil. Mix
well and pour the sauce over the fish.
Stuffed John Dory with
sea-urchin cream Bone a John Dory, keeping it intat. Stuff it with 300 ml ( ½ pint, 1 ¼ cups)
leeks stewed in butter mixed with a duxelles of grey chanterelles. Place the fish in an ovenproof dish with
chopped onion, thyme, bay leaf, 225 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) white Cassis wine
and 7 tablespoons cream. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (35°F, gas
4) for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce; open up 2 sea urchins and
put the coral into a small sauce pan.
Beat together 2 egg yolks and 7 tablespoons double (heavy) cream in a
bain marie. When this mixture is really
frothy, add. It to the sea-urchin coral,
whisking vigorously, and season with salt and cayenne. Pour some of the cream sauce over the fish
and put the rest into the sea-urchin shells heated in the oven. Arrange these shells around the fish.
JOINTIN. The process of coming up meat and poultry into large pieces at the joints, using a very sharp knife.
JOINTOYER. A French culinary term meaning to fill in any
surface unevenness and to smooth the joined edges of cakes and pastries that
are made up of several layers. Using a
cream as the filling agent, the object is to ensure a smooth and uniform
surface on the top and sides of the cakes; this is essential if the cake is to
look its best of if it is to be iced (froted).
JOINVILLE. The name of a dish of sole fillets arranged
in a circle, which was dedicated to the third son of Louis –Philippe, the Due
de Joinville. The garnish for fillets of
sole Joinville usually consists of prawns (shrimp), poached mushrooms and
truffles, while the sauce is made from a sole veloure bound with cream and egg
yolks with oyster liquor, mushroom essence (extract) and puree of prawns and
crayfish added to it. there are a number
of simpler varialism.
The name is also applied to a normande sauce with prawn
butter, and to a prawn sauce with crayfish butter and ajulience of truffles
when it is to accompany braised fish.
Joinville garnish is also used to fill harquettes, tartlets, houchees
and an omelette, shich is then surrounded with a prawn sauce. Finally there is a galteau joinville; made
from two squares of flaky pastry filled with raspberry jam.
RECIPE
Fillets of sole
Joinville
Clean 250 g (9 oz.)
mushcrooms; dice them, sprinkle with lemon juice, and cook slowly in butter
over a low heat, fillet 2 sole. Make a fumet from the sole trimmings and
poach the fillets in this for 6 minutes.
Drain. Cook 8 giant praws
(shrimp) in boiling salted water for 4 minutes.
Prepare 300 ml ( ½ pint, 1 ¼ cups) normande” sauce using the ish fumet
and the mushroom cooking juice; add 15 g ( ½ oz. 1 tablespoon) prawn butter to
the sauce. Mix 100g (4 oz. 3/2 cup) peeled prawn with a finely
diced truffle and the mushrooms; bind with a little sauce. Arrange the sole fillets a circle on a round
dish; stick a prawn into each fillet.
Put the garnish in the center of the dish and cover with the sauce. Formely the fillets were arranged on a border
of fish forcement and truffle slices, with the garnish in the middle.
JOULE. Since 1980 this been the official
international unit of measurement for energy.
The kilojouble is the metric replacement for the Calorie or kilocalorie (1 k) – 0.24 Cal or
Kcal). Calories continue to appear
without the metric equivalent on some
information labels. When kilojoules are
given, the calorie equivalent also appearns and is generally expressed as
kl/local/
JUDIC. A garnish for small or large cuts of meat,
sautéed chicken, braised calves sweetbreads and similar dishes, consisting of
braised lettuce small stuffed and chateaus potatoes. Deglazing the pan with Medira and demi-glace
sauce, or with a tomato-flavoured demi-lace. According to the dic-tionnaire de I’ academie des
gastronomes,tournedos judic was supposed to have beennamed after the
comedian anna damiens, known as dame judic: the steaks are garnished with
braised lettuce and a ragout of slicedtruffle and cockscombs and kidneys,
covered with a maderia demi-glace. The name is also given to poached fillets of
sole garnished with lettuce and fish quenelles, the whole dish being coated
with mornay sauce and browned.
JUDRU
Ashort,
thick, sausage made from pure pork, a speciality of chagny in burgundy. The
meat is steeped in mare brandy and cut into small pieces rather than minced (
ground ) or chopped.
JUICE See fruit juice, jus.
JUICE
EXTRACTOR An
electrical appliance used to extract juice from vegetables and fruit by means
of rapid rotation (citrus fruits, which are pressed, are an exception). A sleve retains the pulp, seeds and
skin. Some models have a system for
ejecting the waste and can operate continuously, producing large quantities of
juice, others require frequent cleaning of the filter. The juices obtained are used in drinks, ices,
sorhets and jellis.
JUIVE, A LA Describing
a dish of carp, generallyserved cold. In
the authentic Jewish recipe, the carp is cleaned with salt, quicklybrowned in
hotoil, then braised in a white roux with the row, garlic and parsley. This recipeis adapted in classic
Frenchcookery, the fish being sautéed in onion, then braised in white wine with herbs.
This dish has many variations; for example, chopped almonds and saffron,
or fresh parsley, raisins, sugar and vinegar, can be added to the cooking
juices.
A dish of
artichokes stuffed with breadcrumbs, chopped freshmint and garlic, cooked in
oil, is alsodescribed as a la juive.
RECIPES
CARP A LA JUIVE (1)
(Jewish recipe) Scale
and gut (clean) a carp weighing about 1 kg. (2 ¼ lb), taking care to reserve
the roe. Cut the fish into slices and
rub it with coarse salt. Leave for 20-30
minutes, then drain the pieces, dry them with a cloth and add the roe. Ix 2-3 chopped garlic cloves with some
parsley in a small bowl. Heat 3-4 tablespoons oil in a saucepan and
sear the fish and the roe. Add enough
water to almost cover the fish, then add salt and pepper, the parsley and
garlic, and simmer for about 20 minutes.
Take out the pieces of fish and the roe and arrange them in a deep dish.
Make a smooth paste with 3 tablespoons cornflour
(cornstarch) and a little water, then mix in two-thirds of the liquid from the
saucepan. Simmer the sauce until it has
reduced by one-third. Pour it over the
fish and leave in the refrigerator to set.
CARP A LA JUIVE (2)
Cut a medium-sized carpinto regular slices and cook them
in 200 ml (7 ft. oz., ¾ cup) oil with 100 g (4 oz, 1/3 cup) flour. Pour in enough white wine and fish fumet (or
water) to almost white wine and fish fumet (or water) to almost cover the fish;
add salt, a pinch of cayenne, 2 crushed garliccloves and a bouquet garni. Moisten with a few tablespoons of oil and bring to the boil, then cook gently for 20
minutes. Drain the pieces of carpand
arrange them on a long dish in the shape of the original fish. Boil down the liquor by two-thirds, take off the heat, and thicken
by beating in 7 tablespoons oil. Pour
this sauce over the carp and leave to cool.
JUJUBE. An oval, olive-sized fruit with a smooth
tough red skin; soft, sweet, yellowis or green flesh and a hard stone
(pit). The jujube tree, which originated
in China, was known to Homer, and the fruit years The jujube is grown in the
temperate zone from theFar East to the Mediterranean. The Far East
exports large jujubes, either fresh or dried, known as ‘red dates’. The jujube can be eaten as it is either fresh
or dried, and is also used in pastry-making (cakes and fritters) and in savoury
dishes, such as meat stuffings and soups.
JULES-VERNE. A garnish for large cuts of meat consisting
of stuffed braised potatoes and turnips, arranged alternately with sauteed
mushrooms. It was dedicated to the
famous novelist by a 19th-century chef.
JULIENAS. One of the ten classified growths of
theBeaujolais, which in good years may have good keeping qualities, although
most should be drunk within a couple of years
of the vintage.
JULIENNE. Foodstuffs, especially vegetables, that are
cut into thin sticks. They are cut with a
knife or a mandoline into even slices 1-2 mm (1/16 in) thick and then into
strips 2.5 cm (1 in) long. The julienne
is cooked in butter in a covered pan until quite soft and then used for various
garnishes, particularly for soups and consommés.
Raw vegetables to be served as an hors d’oeuvre can also
be cut as a julienne, such as carrots in vinaigrette and celeriac in spicy
mayonnaise. Many other foods can also be
cut in this way: gherkins, truffles,
peppers, mushrooms, ham, tongue, chicken breasts and citrus-fruit peel, for example.
The origin of the word is obscure, but it appears in the
1722 edition of Le Cuisinier royal
BOUCHEES A LA
JULIENNE. Cut the following vegetables
into fine strips; carrots (discarding any hard core), turnips, the white stem
of leeks, celery sticks with the strings removed, and mushrooms sprinkled with
lemon juice (Use twice as much carrot as each of the other vegetable). Cook the julienne in melted butter, in a covered sauté pan over
a low heat, so that the vegetables retain a little bite. Add 7 tablespoons double (heavy) cream for
every 450 g (l lb) vegetables, and reduce until the mixture is thick. Add Bayonne ham, alsocut into strips (l part
ham to 5 parts mixture), and heat through without boiling. If liked, a little veryfine julienne of
truffle can be added. Adjust the
seasoning.
Heat some small puff-pastry cases and divide the mixture
between them. Serve immediately before
the pastry goes soggy.
CONSOMME JULIENNE. Make a julienne of 100 g (4 oz) carrot (discarding
any hard core), 75 g (3 oz.) turnip, and 40 g ( l l/2 oz) eachof white of leek,
onion and celery. Sprinkle with a pinch
of salt and a pinch of sugar. Soften the
vegetales in 50 g (2 oz ¼ cup) melted butter over a low heat, with the pan
covered, for 10minutes. Cut 50 g(2 oz) white cabbageinto julienne strips
and blanch for 10 minutes in boiling water, then refresh and drain; do the same
with the h eart of a medium-sized lettuce; add these to the other vegetables.
Cook them all together; covered, for 15 minutes. Pour in 300 ml (1/2 pint, 1 l/4 cups)
consommé* and simmer for 5 minutes; add 25 g (1 oz) sorrel cut into fine
ribbons and 1 tablespoons fresh peas, and cook for a further 25 minutes. Add another 1.25 litres (2 l/4 pints, 5
1/2cups) consommé and boil for a few seconds; skim the pan, and at the last
moment add some chervil leaves.
The consommé can be garnished with pearl barley, rice,
semolina, tapioca or vermicelli, or with quenelles, profiteroles or royals.
JULIENNE SALAD WITH ORANGE
AND HORSERADISH DRESSING. Pare the zest
from ½ orange and cut it into fine julienne.
Cook the strips of orange zest in boiling water for about 5 minutes or
until tender. Drain and set aside. Squeeze the juice from the orange and place
it in a large bowl. Add l teaspoon
caster sugar, 2 teaspoons creamed horseradish, salt and pepper, and whisk until
the sugar has dissolved. Gradually whisk
in 4 tablespoons olive oil. Then stir in
the orange zest.
Cut ½ celeriac into julienne and add to the dressing in
the bowl, tossing well to coat the celeriac evenly and prevent it from
discolouring. Cut 4 carrots into
julienne and add to the celeriac. Finely
chop 4 spring onions and add to the salad with 2 tablespoons chopped mint. Toss well and chill lightly before serving.
POTAGE JULIENNE A LA
CEVENOLE. Prepare 450 g (1 lb.) julienne
of carrots, turnips, white of leek, celery and onions, in equal proportions;
cook gently in butter for about 30 minutes.
Pour in l litre ( l l/4 pints, 4 l/2 cups) consommé and cook for a further 30minutes. Add 500 ml (17 fl. Oz. 2 cups) salted
chestnut puree, mix thoroughly, and boil for 5 minutes, just before serving,
blend in 50 g (2 oz., ¼ cup), butter, cut into small pieces.
JUMBLES. Biscuits made from a richdough, shaped into
short ropes and then twisted into knots or “S” shapes, jumbles were originally
flavoured with caraway seeds, lemon zest
or rose water. The name is also applied
to biscuits made from a coarse-textured mixture of dried fruit and nuts. The mixture is piled into clusters before
baking and the name refers to the method by which the ingredients are all
jumbled together.
JUNIPER BERRIES. The darkish berries of the juniper tree,
which are used in cooking and the manufacture of wines and spirits because of
their pungent and slightly resinous
flavour. Used either whole or ground,
juniper berries are particularly appreciated in Scandinavian cookery. They are the indispensable seasoning for
marinades and court-bouillon, dishes of game animals, (wild boar) and birds
(thrush, blackbird, woodcock), pork dishes (knuckle, pates)and saurkraut. They are generally used in dishes a la
liegeoise or a Pardenmaise.
A highly aromatic brandy, drunk mostly in northern
Europe, is flavoured with juniper berries; it is known as genievre in France,
genever schiedam in the Netherlands, and piquet in Belgium. English gin, as well as a number of schnapps
and brandies, are also flavoured with juniper berries. In addition, the berries are used to flavour
Scandinavian beers.
JUNKET. An ancient dessert made by setting milk with
rennet, originally made using warm milk fresh from the cow and served with
clotted cream. The rennet sets the milk
to produce a product similar to set, unstrained yogurt. The milk for junket may be flavoured with
rose water and sweetened, then sprinkled with a little cinnamon or nutmeg. Junket takes its name from the French
jonquette, a type of rush basket used to drain curds, which suggests that the
curds of the first junkets were drained before they were served, rather than
beig left as a light dessert with a jelly-like texture.
JUNK FOOD. A 20th-century term for inferior
highly processed, ready-prepared fast
food does not provide a well-balanced snack or meal in terms of
nutrition. Junk foods often have high
fat and salt contents, sweet junk foods have a highsugar content. Synthetic flavourings, flavour enhancers and
colours may be used to disguise poor-quality ingredients.
JURANCON. One of the best-nown wines from south-western
France, produced in limited quantities, in the foothills of the Purenees from
vineyards that are difficult to work because of their steepness. The white wine has been famous since the day
it was used tomoisten the lips of thenewborn future Henry IV. It is made from local grape varieties (Petit
Manseng, Gros-Manseng and Courbu) that in ideal conditions, may be picked late
and affected by ‘noble rot’ (see noble rof).
There are two appellations controlles, Jurancon, a sweet wine, and
Jurancon see, which is traditionally drunk young. The other Jurancon grapes are Camaralet and
Lauzet.
JUS. This French word is roughly equivalent to
juice, but has more specific meanings in French cookery than the English word.
It is used primarily for the gravy of a roast, made by
diluting the pan juices with water, clear stork or any other suitable liquid,
and then boiling it until all the goodness
in the pan has been absorbed into the stock. Dishes described as an jus are prepared or served with this gravy.
It is alsoused for a thickened or clear brown stock,
especially veal stock(jus de veau).
Finally, it is used for the juice squeezed from raw
vegetables or fruit.
JUSSLERE. A garnish
for small cuts of meat, consisting of stuffed onions, braised lettuce and
chaveau potatoes, sometimes with carrots cutinto meat shapes and glazed.
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