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UDDER The mammary gland of an animal, especially that of a cow. Its gastronomic role is now fairly limited, in contrast to former times. Cow’s udder should first be sliced, soaked in cold water, blanched and cooled. It can then be braised (possibly studded with small pieces of  bacon fat) in the same way as noix of veal and served with mushrooms or rice. It can also be used in pates and terrines. Apicius gives a recipe for  puff-pastry pie of sow'’ udders, fish and chicken spiced with pepper and pine kernels. In the Middle Ages people enjoyed cow’s udder with verjuice, while heifer’s udder was quite a common constituent of forcemeat.

UDE, LOUIS-EUSTACHE  French cook, a contemporary of Careme, who was one of the first to introduce the French culinary art into Britain.

  Having been Louis XVI’s head cook, then Princess Letizia Bonaparte’s maitre d’ hotel, he became chef to Lord Sefton, then to the Duke of York and finally director of St. James Club in London.An annuaity bequeathed by Lord Sefton, a gourmet and epicurean, enabled Ude to retire and write The French Cook or the Art of Cookery developed in all its various branches (1813, republished several times up to 1833). This is a practical good cookery course for organizing elegant and inexpensive dinners, with anecdotes, advice on choosing menus and a list of several new French recipes.

UGLI  A tropical plant, originally from eastern India, similar to the lemon tree and having fragrant fruit resembling medium-sized oranges. The Indians (who call them bilva or mabura) cook ugli fruit in a ashes because of their leatheriness, then eat them with sugar. They can also be made into jam.

ULLUCO Also known as ullucus. A plant from western South America, cultivated in Bolivia and Peru for its small, pinkish, edible tubers. Attempts to introduce the ulluco into Europe as a substitute for the potato have not been successful.

UMBRIA    A quality wine producing region in Central Italy best known for the white wine Orvieto and red wines Torgiano and Rosso di Montefalco made from Sanglovese.Recent investment in the vineyards and wineries has led to an exciting range of wines being produced from Merlot, Cabernet Sauvigonon, Pinot Noir and Chartdonnay, as well as Sangiovese.

UNLEAVENED BREAD   Describing a dough that is without leaven, or yeast. Unleavened bread plays an important role in Jewish ritual, as Orthodox  Jews consider fermented bread to be profane. According to tradition, unleavened bread symbolizes absolutely pure food, the fermentation brought about by the leavening agent marking the beginning of the process of decay. Each year biblical Jews made matzo (from a verb meaning to extract) round ritual bread resembling the offertory cakes of the Mediterranean peoples. Later, matzo was eaten in place of bread during the seven days of Passover, to commemorate the deliverance of the children of Israel (see Exodux XII:33)

   In earlier times the rabbis ordained that three women should work simultaneously in making matzo one to knead the dough, another to shape the biscuits (cookies), and the thrid to put them into the oven. The custom of making patterns and interlaced designs on the matzo was abandoned, however, and the biscuits are now crisp, round or square, and of varying thickness and size. They may sometimes be shaped in moulds with geometric patterns. In England, in 1875, matzo was first made industrially under rabbinical control.

  The composition of unleavened bread for religious purposes must be scrupulously respected water and wheat flour (harvested in a prescribed way), without salt, sugar or fats. Barley, spelt, oats or rye may also be used. Sometimes the dough is flavoured with wine or fruit, but only pure maizo is eaten on the first night of Passover. A  whole cuisine has built up around the use of unleavened flour including traditional soups containing matzo balls, fritters and cakes.Somes of these recipes may account for the name celestial bread in the Cabbala.

UNMOULD To turn out a cake, jelly, ice cream and the like from a tin or mould.This is often a delicate operation and should be carried out with care.

Aspics and jellies Plunge the base of the mould in hot (but not boiling) water for a few seconds. Remove and shake lightly from side to side. Loosen the jelly around the edge with the blade of a knife, place a serving plate on top of the mould, turn over quickly and lift off the mould steadily, keeping it vertical.The same procedure, can be used for cream desserts and flans.

   Sponge cakes Unmoulding is made easier if the mould or tin has a non-stick surface. Otherwise, it needs to be greased and lightly dusted with flour before adding the mixture. Another alternative is to line the tin or mould with greaseproof (wax)  paper. Turn out on to a wire rack immediately after removing from the oven.

  Unmoulding ice cream Dip the mould briefly into cold water and then into lukewarm water. Loosen the ice cream with the blade of a knife, taking care not to cut into it. Place a napkin or a paper  daily and then the serving dish on top of the mould. Turn over quickly and lift off the mould, keeping it vertical.

URUGUAY See Praguay and Urugauay, and South America.