TABASCO A proprietary American sauce, popular in
cookery the world over, that consists of chili peppers marinated in spirit
vinegar with salt. This hot flavoured condiment is used to season a wide
variety of foods, including meat, egg and red kidney bean dishes and sauces. It
is also used in cocktails.
TABBOULEH A popular Middle Eastern salad and speciality
of Lebanon, from where it is thought to have originated. There are many
versions, from simple mixtures of soaked wheat flavoured with herbs to
vegetable rich varieties with with a
comparatively small proportions of wheat to tomatoes, onions and peppers.
Essentially, tabbouleh is made of bulgur wheat mixed with aromatic herbs,
tomatoes and spring onions or chopped onion. Sometimes sweet pepper and lemon
are added. Tabbouleh is traditionally served with or in cos lettuce leaves and
eaten with the fingers. The lettuce is used to scoop up the salad.
RECIPE
Tabbouleh
Put 250 g bulgur wheat
(9 oz. 2 ½ cups) into a bowl. Add plenty of cold water to cover and leave to
soak for 20 minutes, drain thoroughly in a fine sieve. Place the bulgar in a large salad bowl. Add 500 g (18 oz 3 cups0
finely diced juicy tomatoes with their juice, 250 g ( 9 oz. 1 ½ cups) finely
chopped onions, 2 tablespoons of both chopped fresh mint and parsley. Season
with salt and pepper. Mix in 100 ml ( 4
ft oz. 7 tablespoons) olive ( or sesame) oil and the juice of 3 lemons. Leave
in a cool place for 2-3 hours, stirring occasionally. Just before serving,
garnish with 8 spring onions (scallons) and leaves of fresh mint.
TABIL A mixture of
spices in Arab cookery, consisting of three parts fresh (or dried) coriander
(cilantro) to one part caraway (fresh or dried), crushed with garlic and red
pepper. Tabil is dried in the sun finely ground and stored in a dry place. In
particular, it is used to spice semolina dishes, mutton ragout and puree of
broad (fava) beans in oil. It is also used to season vinaigrette for crayfish
cooked in court bouilllon and as a sauce to accompany snails two popular Arab
dishes.
TABLE A piece of furniture on which food is served.
In a wider sense, the word can also refer to the meal itself.
Tableware through the
years At the beginning of the 17th century, the usefulness of items
still took precedence over their decorativeness. The conventional plate had a
wide raised rim and in France was called a cardinal’s hat, the fork, which was
still rare, had only two prongs. The drinking glass was beginning to replace
the metal goblet, although pewter ewers were very common.
The beginning of the 18th century
saw the introduction of more elaborate silverware. Forks and spoons were
adorned with architectural motifs, forks had four prongs, but the knives still
did not match the forks and spoons. The plate evolved into its modern shape and
the drinking glass came into general use. The flat pewter candlestick became a
sconce. New items appeared, such as the sugar sprinkler, the egg cup and the
salt cellar.
The Regency period and the reign of Louis XV
were the heyday of silverware. Decoration became more complex, with mouldings
and borders. Fork, spoon and knife formed a matching set. The sconce broth bowl
on its stand appeared, soon followed by the soup plate. Glasses became more and
more delicate. The fashion for coffee and drinking chocolate give rise to the
coffee pot and sets of coffee cups. The colle pot was used to serve soups and
ragouts of game.
Decorating the
table. The fashion for complicated
patisserie decorations, candelabra or monumental flower arrangements went out
long ago, nowadays, one or two candles or a vase of flowers is considered an
elegant and practical decoration. For special occasions chemins de fleurs in
little crystal jar dimieres, arranged end
to end, make a charming border of roses, violets, or nasturiums.Also
attractive are spray of autumn leaves on the tablecloth. Bowls or baskets of
fruit can replace floral decorations. Low fruits dishes plates or baskets with
handles that are easy to hold are preferable to symmetrical pyramidal
arrangements on high dishes, which might impede conversation with guests
sitting opposite fruit should be arranged without too much interspersed, it
necessary with clusters of leaves and should please the eye as well as the appetite.
TABLE D’HOTE Formerly a
large communal table at an inn, where people sat as and when they arrived and
where everyone could be served meals that were prepared throughout the day. A
communal table d’hote was also the rule in boarding houses where meals were
served at a set time. They still exist in provincial areas, in certain hotels
for commercial travelers. In Paris in a few restaurants with regular customers,
they are again fashionable. When the inn was superceded by the restaurant
customers were served at separate tables.
TABLE ETIQUETTE AND
MANNERS A set of rules which govern the serving and eating of a meal, the
strictness with which they re adhered to depends on the degree of formality of
the meal lunch generally being rather less formal than dinner Brillat Savarin
said. To invite someone to one’s table is to assume responsibility for his
happiness during the time he is under your roof. The guest'’ enjoyment will be
increased if a tasteful arrangement of the table and a flawless service are added
to the good quality of the food.
A question of manners.
Table manners have developed through the ages and attitudes towards them vary
in every country. The Gauls used to eat sitting down, and the Romans lying
down, while the Japanese traditionally squat on their heels at the table. The
French are taught to keep their hands over the table brought out the meal,
whereas English etiquette requires that they should be placed in the lap when
not actually eating. Belching, regarding as the grossest indelicacy in western
countries, was a sign of politeness in ancient Rome and still is in the Middle
East.
One of the first collections of the rules of
etiquette was compiled by Robert de Blois, since the rules of chivalry extended
to good table manners. His advice was always to have clean hands and
fingernails, not to eat bread before the first course, not to take the largest
pieces of food, not to pick one’s teeth or scratch oneself with one’s knife,
not to talk with one’s mouth full, and not to laugh too loudly. Washing one’s
hands before and after the meal was a compulsory ritual for which servants would bring a copper basin
full of perfumed water and a towel. When we realize that there were no forks at
that time, that a bowl and goblet were shared by several guests, and that meals
could last for hours, these precautions were not negligible.
The
Placing of guest. Today,
table arrangement and the places allotted to guests are still subject to a
number of rules for formal occasions such as state banquets.
At very formal meals, the guests will enter
the dinning room in couples, or the women will be asked to enter the dining
room first. When there are eight or fewer guests, the mistress of the house
shows each one where to sit. Above that number, it is a good idea to provide small cards. For a party meal, a
table plan must be prepared. The subtleties of French etiquette sometimes
present problems of precedence .
In ancient times, the place of honor was on
the left of the master of the house, on the side of the heart. In the Middle
Ages, the table hierarchy was much less precise, but the master of the house
honoured his guest by having a choice morsel brought to him, inviting him to
cut off a piece of meat, or drinking to his health. In china, the place of honour
is situated opposite the door of the dining room and, if possible, facing
south. Precedence is determined by age, degree of relationship and social rank,
rarely by sex.
Rules for guests. All meals to which guests are invited are
social occasions which required mutual deference and courtesy. Guests should
not arrive before the indicated time, but custom dictates that a guest should
not keep his host waiting for more than a quarter of an hour.
When the guests are taken into the dining
room, they should wait to be seated by the hostess, it is she who, when each
course is served, gives the signal to take the first mouthful. It is also she
who rises first from the table when the meal is over.
A formal lunches, ladies wearing hats may
keep them on ( a custom which crossed from England to France at the beginning
of the 20th century).
Nothing is touched with the fingers except
bread, which is broken up into pieces and never cut with a knife, and a few
foods, such as globe artichokes and
certain seafoods, which are usually reserved for less formal gatherings.
The cutlery should be handled without any
noise, and the knife should never be put in the mouth. When a dish is offered
to guests, they should serve themselves with moderation, taking the portion closest
to them without ostensible selection. At
family meals, the dish may be placed in the middle of the table.
It is the custom to wait a little before
beginning to drink. The master of the house will pour the first few drops of each bottle of wine into
his own glass, in case it is corked. Wine glasses are filled only two thirds
full, to bring out the bouquet of the wine.
The rules of etiquette
Artichokes. These are
eaten leaf by leaf the leaves being detached with the fingers. However, at
formal meals only the hearts are served, garnished or stuffed.
Asparagus. The tips are
cut off with a fork and the rest is left, unless the hostess invites the guests
to use their fingers. It is, however, acceptable these days to eat the whole
thing with the fingers, leaving any woody stalk on the side of the plate
afterwards.
TABLE NAPKIN An individual piece of linen which is used to
protect the clothing or to wipe the mouth during a meal. On a set table the
napkins are folded, sometimes with a bread roll inside, and placed on the
plate. Decorative folding is sometimes used in restaurant or at formal dinner parties. It is good manners
to wipe the mouth before drinking and whenever trace of sauce or other food
remains on the lips. Tying the napkin around the neck is regarded as inelegant,
unless the dish consists of shrimps or seafood which require peeling (That
said, the Serviette au cou, a gastronomic society, was founded in Paris in
1934, by Paul Colombier, it had a monthly dinner, served at a precise time, at
which there was no place of honour and tying the napkin round the neck was compulsory)
The Roman used a sudarium to mop the forehead
and face while slaves brought round basins of water for washing. The use of
napkins was not widespread at the beginning of the Middle Ages, although
tablecloths did exist Guests wiped their hands and mouths on the cloth of on
the louguriere.
In catering establishments, the maitre
d’hotel traditionally carries a folded napkin on his left arm as a mark of
office, as do waiters.
It is customary to arrange certain dishes on
white napkins instead of dish papers or doilies a gondola for a whole fish
served on a long dish for example, or a folded napkin for hot toast or a bombe.
TABLE SETTING The linen crockery and cutlery laid out for a meal for formal occasions, everything
should coordinate, with matching tablecloth and napkins, all the crockery of
same design, or at least toning, and matching sets of wine glasses. A few flowers, into strongly scented, may be
arranged in small cluster or in a single flower below. The table cloth, white
or of an unobtrusive pattern, is placed on a table felt, to deaden the sound,
table mats placed directly on the table are suitable for less formal meals.
Each guest must have sufficient elbow and leg room about 60 cm (2 ft) The
places are laid symmetrically fork on the left of the plate, soup spoon and
main knife on the right, together with the fish knife or osyter fork (if
required), the knife rest, which is now rarely seen, should not be used for a
formal dinner. According to the number of wines, several glasses (not more than
three), of decreasing size, are placed in front of the plate. The napkin,
folded in the simplest possible manner, is put on the plate. Salt cellars and carafes are placed at either end
of the table, or possibly in the centre if the table is round. The wine,
uncorked in advance, remains in its original bottle, but clarets may be
decanted into a carafe, fresh water is also provided in a canafe.
TABLE SONG The ancient custom of singing at table at the
end of a meal arose from the natural tendency of the guests to express their
satisfaction. According to Ecclesiastes. There is nothing under the sun better
for man than to eat, drink and be merry. Go, therefore, eat your bread with joy
and drink your wine with cheer. Greek and Roman banquets usually ended with
great spectacles, and in the Middle Ages all feasts were punctuated by
interludes of song or mine, but the table song, or rather, the drinking song,
began in the 15th century, with Olivier Basselin, creator of the rau
de vire, from which the term vaudeville is derived.
The custom was at its peak at the time of the Empire and the Restoration. E
Briffault notes in Paris a table. Under the
empire part of the old freedom of the past returned people used to sing at table during de assert, sometimes drinking songs, most often fashionable ballads, there were also verses to celebrate festivals and weddings. It was then that singing dinners were formed, dinners for bachelors, dinners for friends, dinners for corporations, etc. As early as 180s Grimod de la Reyniere complained of patriotic songs sung during the Revolution and rejoiced in the return of drinking songs and lvoe songs, symbols of healthy French gaiety composed by Desaugiers, Pannard Colle Favart and others Practising what he preached, he published drinking and eating songs in the successive editions of his Almamach des goturmands.
empire part of the old freedom of the past returned people used to sing at table during de assert, sometimes drinking songs, most often fashionable ballads, there were also verses to celebrate festivals and weddings. It was then that singing dinners were formed, dinners for bachelors, dinners for friends, dinners for corporations, etc. As early as 180s Grimod de la Reyniere complained of patriotic songs sung during the Revolution and rejoiced in the return of drinking songs and lvoe songs, symbols of healthy French gaiety composed by Desaugiers, Pannard Colle Favart and others Practising what he preached, he published drinking and eating songs in the successive editions of his Almamach des goturmands.
TABLIER DE SAPEUR A
speciality of Lyon, made of pieces of tripe cut from the so-called honecomb,
dipped in beaten egg and covered with breadcrumbs. They are then friend or
grilled (broiled) and served piping hot with snail butter, gribiche sauce or
tartare sauce.
TABOUREAU A chef who probably lived at the beginning of
the 16th century. He is the author of a Viandier, which is similar
in some ways to that written by Taillevent. Taboureau’s manuscript, dating from
the 1550’s contains recipes which date back to the 14th century as
well as the escriteaux (menus) of banquets given by the Comte d’Harcourt in
honour of the king of France in 1396
TACHE, LA Red AOC grand cru of the Cote de Nuits. Make
in the commune of Vosne-Romance, this robust wine with its powerful bouquet of
red berry fruits and violet notes is rated by some as the best in the commune.
TACO In Mexican cookery, a commeal pancake
(tortilla) filled with a thick sauce, minced (ground) meat seasoned with chili
pepper, black beans, or avocado puree with onion. When filled, the pancake is
rolled and eaten straight away or fried gently Tacos are a popular snack or hot
entrée.
TAFIA Originally, the
name given to rum by the natives of the French West Indies. The word is now
used to mean a second rate form of the spirit.
TAGLIATELLE Italian egg
ribbon noodles, about 6 mm ( ¼ in) wide and golden or green in colour (green
tagliatelle contains spinach) Tagiatelle is a speciality of Emilia-Romagna,
where according to legend, its invention was inspired by a nobleman’s love for
the hair of Lucrezia Borgia Tagiatelle literally means small cut-up things. In
Italy, there are variant forms
tagienrni, which are narrower (3 mm in) and tagliolini, which are shorter
Fetucine is a wider ribbon pasta.
Tagliatelle may be served in a wide varies of
ways with many sauces, including a simple dressing of olive oil and garlic a
cream and ham sauce a light seafood dressing or a rich meat sauce.
TAHINI Beige coloured,
oily and thick paste of sesame seeds. Used in Middle Eastern cooking both
savoury and sweet, and a popular product for vegetarian dishes. The oil floats
and the thick paste must be stirred thoroughly before use.
TAHITIENNE, ALA A term for raw fillets of fish (gilt-head
bream, monkfish, grouper or turbot) cut into thin strips or small dice,
marinated for several hours in lemon juice and oil with salt and pepper, then
served with seeded tomato quarters or tomato pulp and sprinkled with grated
coconut. Fish a la tabitiemie can also be included in a mixed salad along with avocado, grapefruit
quarters and a chiffonnade of lettuce and tomatoes, all seasoned with lemon
mayonnaise.
TAIL The caudal
appendage of an animal, classed as a cheap cut of meat.
The most widely used is oxtail, which makes
many delicious dishes, notably oxtail soup. Lamb’s or sheep’s tail is not often
used, although it can be boiled and then grilled (broiled0 or braised with
curry. Pig’s tail can be cooked in the same way as pig’s trotters (feet), boned
and stuffed, braised or boiled, coated with breadcrumbs and grilled (broiled)
it can also be pickled in brime.
The tail of prawns (shrimps) scampi, crayfish
and similar crustacceans is often the only edible portion after shelling.
TAILLAULE A pastry from
Neuchaietel.Switzerland, made from a leavened dough to which chopped candied
orange peel and num have been added Baked in a rectangular mould, taillaude is
cut up when cooked using scissors.
TAILLE A pastry from
the French speaking part of Switzerland, savoury and slightly flaky to which
pork pieces known as greubons are added the
taille is a hearty traditional snack.
TAILLEVENT, GUILLAUME
TIREL A French cook (born Pont Audemer, c 1310 died Pont Audemer c 1395) author
of le Viandier one of the oldest cookery books written in French.Four
manuscripts were discovered by Baron jerome. Piednon who assited by Gabriel
Vicarie, published the book in 1892 and included some information about the
author’s life and career.
The name Guillaume, Tired is found in a
mascript dated 1326 describing the coronation of Jeanne d Evreux – the young
Tired was in the service of the latter as a kitchen boy. In 1346 he entered the
service of Philippe de Valois who later gave him a house in Saint Germain
en-Layte) then the joined the household of the Dauphin, as squire, becoming
cook in 1335. He subsequently held the same position in the households of the
Duke of Normandy and of Charles V (1368073) Finally, in 1381 he entered the
service of Charles VI, who ennobled to master of the king’s kithcen provisions,
the crowning title of his career.Guillaume Tired, known as Taillevent a
nickname apparently inspired by the length of his nose, was buried in the
priory of Notre Dame, in Hennebont.
Moreover, the late 20th century
move toward nouvelle cuisine took inspiration from Taillevent, updating such
old dishes as salmon pate with sorrel, civet of hot oysters and fresh ham with
leek.
TAJINE A deep glazed
earthenware dish with a conical lid that fits flush with the rim.It is used
throughout North Africa for preparing and serving a range of dishes that are
cooked slowly in a flavoured basting lqiuid, these preparations themselves are
also called tajines and are made with vegetables, such as potatoes and
courgettes (zucchini) fish, chicken, and quinces or dates, meat or even fruit,
Mutton with prunes, or veal with tomatoes and aubergines (eggplants) are typical.
RECIPES
Tajine of beef with
cardoons
Pour 60 ml (2 ft oz, ¼
cup) olive oil into a tajine and brown 1 kg ( 2 ¼ lb) cubed beef, 2 sliced
onions, 2 chopped garlic cloves ½ teaspoon cumin, ½ teaspoon ginger 2 pinches
saffron strands, ½ teaspoon grey pepper (mixed ground black and white peppers)
and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover with water and simmer gently for 1 hour. Peel 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb) cardoons, cut into strips,
placing them in water and lemon juice to prevent discoloration. Add to the
tajine and cook for 30 minutes, then add the juice of 1 lemon and cook for 10
minutes.
Tajine of carrots Put 1
kg ( 2 ¼ lb) sliced carrots into a tajine or saucepan. Add 5 tablespoons olive
oil, then add 450 g (1 lb) finely sliced onions a bouquet of coriander
(cilantro) the same amount of parsley, 2 chopped garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon
ginger., a pinch each of cumin, paprika and saffron powder, 2 turns of the
pepper mill and a large pinch of salt. Mix together put on the lid and cook
over a very low heat for 1 1/2 hours
(using a heat diffuser) Just before
serving, and 150 g ( 5 oz, 1 cup) black (ripe) olives and sprinkle with
lemon juice.
Tajine of mutton with
prunes and honey
In a tajine (or
saucepan) put 1 kg (2 ¼ lb_ mutton cut
into pieces, 5 tablespoon olive oil, a pinch of salt, 1 finely sliced onion, a
pinch of ginger a bouquet of coriander (cilantro) a pinch of saffron powder
and 1 cinnamon stick.Cover with water,
put on the lid and simmer over a very low heat for 2 hours, (using a heat
diffuser) When the meat is cooked, take off the lid and allow the sauce to
reduce and thicken. Remove the cordiader, meat and cinnamon. Add 450 g ( 1 lb)
prunes to the sauce and cook for 20 minutes. Then pour in 5 tablespoons honey
and simmer for a further 10 minutes.In a frying pan, brown 1 tablespoon sesame
seeds. Return the meat to the tajene
along with 1 teaspoon orange flower water. Replace the lid reheat and serve
very hot. Just before serving, sprinkle with the fried sesame seeds.
TALEGGIO A DOP Italian
cow-milk cheese (48% fat content) pressed, uncooked, and white or creamy
yellow, it has a soft texture and a washed, thin, pale pink rind.The fruity
taste is accompaneid by a pronounced smell. Originally from Taleggio it is now
made throughout Lombardy and is sold as slabs 20 cm (8 in) square by 5 cm (2
in) thick, in silver paper. It is best between June and November.
TALLEYRAND-PERIGORD,
CHARLES MAURICE DE French satesman (born Paris, 1754 died, Paris 1838) who not
only managed to retain high office and good fortune throughout the Revolution
until the Restoration but was also a celebrated host and connoisseur of good
food, whose table was considered one of the finest in Europe. He employed the
famous pastry cook Advice
RECIPE
Talley rand sauce
Prepare 200 ml (7 ft
oz. ¾ cup) chicken veloute sauce and add 200 ml (7 ft oz ¾ cup0 white stock.
Mix and reduce by half. Add 4 tablespoons double (heavy0 cream and 3
tablespoons Madeira. Boil for a few moments. Remove from the heat and blend in
50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) butter.Strain the sauce and add 1 tablespoon vegetble
mirepoix, then the same amount of finely chopped truffles and pickled tongue.
TALMOUSE A small
savoury pastry made with soft fresh cheese and dating back to the Middle
Ages.The Saint Denis talmouses, which used to be made for the Archbishop of Paris, are mentioned by
Francois Villon and referred to by Balzac in Un debut dans la vie. On entering
Saint Denis, Pierrotin stopped in front of the door of the in keepper who sells
the famous talmouses and where all travellers alight Georges bought them some
talmouses a glass of Alicante wine Le Viandier and Le Menagier de Paris both give a recipe for
them. Made with fine cheeses, cut into squares as small as beans. A generous
amount of eggs are added and it is all mixed together. The pastry case is
coated with eggs and butter.
RECIPE
Talmouses a I ancinne
Roll out some puff
pastry to a thickness of 5 mm ( ¼ in) and cut it into 10 cm (4 in) squares.
Brush with egg yolk and in the centre of each square place 1 large tablespoon
cheese souffle mixture, then on top sprinkle a little diced Gryyere cheese.
Fold the corners of each square to the centre, keeping the filling in the
middle. Put the talmouses on a buttered baking sheet and bake in a preheated
oven at 200 oC (400 oF, gas 6) for 12 minutes. Serve
piping hot.
TAMAL An ancient Mexican dish consisting of a bed
of ground corn mixed with lard (this is traditional, but some cooks use butter)
steamed in the husk of a corn cob. The corn mixture may be coarse or fine, soft
or stiff,. It is placed on the husk or on banana leaves and topped with a spicy
filling of poultry, meat or vegetables. The dough and husks are folded around
the filling and tied, then cooked in a steamer. There are many regional
variations. Tamales are served hot as an entrée and are also a popular street
food.
TAMARILLO Fruit of a
tree of the Solamaceae family, originally from Peru. Tamarillos grow in bunches
of 30, they must be peeled before their juicy pulp is eaten.
TAMARIND The fruit of leguminous evergreen tree, which
originated in west Africa but is now grown in the West Indies, India tropical
Africa and South East Asia. The brown pods, 10 – 15 cm (4-6 in0 long and 7.5 cm
(3 in0 wide, contain a bitter west pulp dotted with a few hard seeds. Tamarinds
are mostly used for preparing jams, sorbets, chutneys, drinks and condiments.
In India, the pulp of dried tamarind a major ingredient in spice mixtures is
also used in salads, broths and purees of dried vegetables. The juice of fresh
tamarind is used to season crudites. In China, crystallized (candied0 tamarind
is used to garnish certain sweet and sour soups.
TAMIE A cow’s milk
cheese from Savoy (40-45% fat content) made by the Trappist monks of the
monastery of Tamie. Pressed and uncooked with a soft and elastic texture, Tamie
has a washed, smooth,c lear rind, a fairly pronounced factic taste, and is made
in the form of rounds, 18 cm (7 cm) in diameter and 4-5 cm (1 ½ -2 in) thick.
Also caleld Trappiste de Tamie, it is served at the end of the meal or grilled
(broiled) on croutes.
TAMPONNER A French
culinary term meaning to carefully place
flecks of butter on the surface of a hot preparation, such as a sauce
(especially bechamel) or a soup, as the butter melts, it forms a thin film of
grease over the sauce, which prevent a skin forming while it is kept hot.
TANDOORI In Indian
cookery, particularly in the Punjab and Pakistan, a method of cooking chicken
or other meat. The pieces of chicken are skinned, then coated in yogurt mixed
with chili, powder turmearic, ginger spices, onion and chopped garlic. After
marinating overnight the chicken is sprinkled with saffron or chili powder and
cooked in a bed of embers in a special cylindrical day oven called a tandoor,
until the flesh is tender, but the outside
crispy. Tandoon chicken is served with salads, onions and tomatoes with
tamarind juice and coriander. Cucumbe with yogurt and cumin, or grated, cabbage
with pepper and lemon juice.Fish and galettes can also be cooked in the
tandoor.
TANGELO A citrus fruit
produced by crossing a tangerine and a grape fruit. It can be peeled as easily
as tangerine. Irregular in shape, the tangelo can american hybrid) is bigger
and more acid than an orange, but it is used in the same way- as fresh fruit,
for fruit salad and for fruit juice.
TANGERINE A citrus fruit resembling a small slightly
flatted orange. Also known as mandarin. There are many types of tangerine but
their linking characteristics are sweet, fragrant flesh and loose skin,
therefore they are easy to peel. This citrus fruit originated in China, with the fruit from North Africa first taking
the name tangerine. Many varieties have
been produced and the same names after often used for different types,
confusing the subject and making identification difficult. As in the
cultivation of most fruit, new examples are often available, and seedless types
are particularly popular.
RECIPES
Frosted tangerines
Choose fine even sized
tangerine with thick skins. Cut off the tops and remove the segments without
breaking the peel. Place the empty
shells and tops in the freezer. Squeeze the pulp, strain the juice and add 300
g (11 oz. 1 ½ cups) caster (superfine)sugar for every 500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups)
juice. Dissolve the sugar completely in the juice. Add a little more juice if
too thick or a little more sugar if too thin. Place in an ice-cream maker, but
stop the process before the ice sets. Fill the frosted shells with the ice pulp
and cover each with its top. Return to the freezer to allow the ice to set.
Tangerine gateau
Grind 125 g (4 ½ oz, 1
cup) shelled almonds in a mortar and add 4 eggs, one by one. Add 4 pieces of
candied tangerine peel, finely chopped, as well as 125 g (4 ½ oz. 2/3 cup)
icing (confectioner’s ) sugar, 3 drops vanilla essence (extract) 2 drops bitter
almond essence (extract and 2 tablespoons apricot jam, strained through a fine
sieve, Stir well.
Roll out some short crust pastry (basic pie
dough) to line a flan ring mould. Spread a layer of tangerine compote on the
bottom and cover with the almond mixture. Smooth the top .Bake in a preheated
oven at 200 oC (400 oF, gas 6 ) for about 30 minutes.
Take out of the oven and allow to cool. Press 3 tablespoon apricot compote
through a sieve and spread over the top of the cake. Decorate with a few fresh
mint leaves, quarters of tangerine cut in half horizontally, and flaked
(slivered) almonds, briefly grilled (broiled) to colour them. Put in a cool
place. Just before serving, place the cake on a serving dish and cut a few
slices so as to reveal the inside.
Tangerine syrup
Remove the peel from 4 tangerine, cut it into
julienne strips and steep in a syrup made with 100 ml (4 ft oz. 7 tablespoons)
water and 300 g (11 oz, 1 ½ cups) sugar. Add a sprig of fresh mint and allow to
cool completely leave the mint to infuse in the syrup for 2 hours. Carefully
remove the white pith from the tangerine segments and cut them into small
pieces. Remove the mint from the syrup and pour this on to the fruits. Keep in
a cool place until time to serve.
TANNIN A substance contained in some vegetable
matter, such as tea, and oak or walnut bark, and also in the skin pips (seeds)
and stalks of grapes. In wine making tannin dissolves in the alcohol and is one
of the main constituents of red wine, responsible for its character and
longevity. It is particularly abundant in Bordeux wines, which explains why
they take so long to mature. Excess tannin makes wine astringent and leads to
the formation of a deposit in the bottle.
TANSY A common European
plant with tall stems and golden yellow aromatic flowers. Its leaves have a
bitter flavour and were incuded in the pharma copoeias compiled by monks in the
Middle Ages. In former times, a highly flavorued household liqueur was made with tansy. When Stainislas
Leszcyriski invented the baba, he sprinkled it with tansy water.
TAPAS In Spain an
assortment of hors d’oeuvre or cocktail snacks traditionally served to
accompany Malaga, sherry Manzanilla or cider. The custom of nibbling tapas
while drinking aperitites, particularly in the evening is widespread in bars
and restaurants.The word comes from tapa sicne it originally meant a slcie of
bread which was used to cover a glass of wine to protect it from files. Once
confined only to Spain tapas bars can now be found in many of the world’s
cities.
Tapas can sometimes take the place of dinner
because they are so varied and abundant, they may include cubes of ham
garnished with sweet red (bell) pepper, white haricot (navy) beans with
vinaigrette squares of thick filled
omelettes, seafood in sauce sauteed kidneys fried shrimps, black (ripe) olives
in brine, tuna, rissoles. Cauliflowr in vinaigrette small eels fried with sweet
red peppers, squid stuffed sweet
peppers, and even snails in a piquant sauce pigs trotters (feet) with tomato or
chicken fricassee with mushrooms.These
tapas are served in small earthenware dishes, into which people dip
using their fingers or cocktail sticks (toothpicks)
TAPENADE A condiment
from Provence, made with capers (from Toulon) desalted anchovies and stoned
black olives pounded in a mortar and seasoned with olive oil, lemon juice
aromatics and possibly a drop of marc brandy. Tapenade is sometimes augmented
by small pieces of tuna, mustard, garlic, thyme or bay leaf. It accompanies
crudites meat or grilled fish, is spread
on slices of toast, and can garnish hard-boiled eggs. The word is derived from
the Provencal tapeno.
RECIPE
Tapenade
Desalt 100 g (4 oz)
canned anchovy fillets, peel 4 garlic cloves and stone (pit) 350 g (122 oz, 3
cups) black (ripe) olives. Blend using a food processor, 100 g (4 oz) tuna
canned I n oil, drained, the anchovy fillets, 100 g (4 oz, 1 cup0 capers, the
juice of 1 lemon, the olives and the garlic. Press the ingredients through a
very fine sieve, then pound the puree in a mortar (or use a food processor), gradually adding 250 ml (
8 ft oz, 1 cup) olive oil and the juice of `1 large lemon. The finished
tapenade should be thick and smooth.
TAPIOCA A starchy food
extracted from the roots of the manioc plant, which is hydrated, cooked, then
ground. It is used mainly for thickening soups and broths and making milk
puddings and other deserts. The tapioca (the word is derived from the
Tupi-Guarani tapioca) comes from Guyana, Brazil and the West Indies.
RECIPES
Tapioca consomme
Sprinkle 75-100 g (3-4
oz, 2/3 –1/4 cup) tapioca in 1.5 litres
(2 ¼ pints, 6 ½ cups) boiling consomme and cook for 10 minutes. Serve piping
hot.
Tapioca dessert
Boil 500 ml (17 ft oz,
2 cups) milk with a pinch of salt, 25 g ( 1 oz. 2 tablespoons) sugar and 1
teaspoon vanilla sugar. Sprinkle in 75 g (3 oz, 2/3 cup0 tapioca, stir then add
2 beaten egg yolks. Continue mixing,
then blend in 3 egg white whisked to stiff peaks with 75 g (3 oz. 2/3 cup)
icing (confectioner’s) sugar. Serve thoroughly chilled.
Tapioca with milk
Boil litre (1 ¾ pints,
4 ½ cups) milk with a pinch of salt, 2 tablespoons sugar and, as desired,
either a vanilla pod (bean) or ½ teaspoon orange-flower water. Sprinkle in
75-100 g ( 3-4 oz, 2/3 –3/4 cup) tapioca, mix, then cook for 10 minutes,
stirring regularly. Remove the vanilla pod.
TARAMASALATA Also known
as taramosalata, particularly with reference to the authentic Greek dish. This
Greek speciality is traditionally served as one of the mezze dishes or as a
starter. It consists of a smooth, creamy paste of fish roe (botargo) crushed
with breadcrumbs soaked in milk, egg yolk, lemon juice, a little vinegar, salt,
and pepper, then emulsified with olive oil. This is now a popular international
dip, widely available as a commercial preparation, varying both from the
original recipe and in quality.
TARO A perennial plant grown in tropical regions
for its large starchy tuberous rhizomes, which have twice the calorific value
of the potato.Taro originally came from India. It is known as chou-chine or
chou caraibe in Martinique, malanga in Cuba and Haiti, songe in Reunion and
madere in Guadeloup, Up to 40 cm (16 in) long, the roots have a smooth skin and
are variously coloured white, purplish blue, red or yellowish, according to the
variety. They are scrubbed and peeled., then used in the same way as the potato
boiled, fried or cooked au gratin. In China, balls of steamed taro are stuffed
with meat, then fried in Japan, it is used in vegetable stews. In haiti, the
grated raw pulp is used to prepare acras. Taro is also used in desserts.
TARRAGON An aromatic
perennial plant originating in central Asia. Its name is derived, via the
Arabic tarkbout, from the Greek drakontion the herb was formerly reputed to
cute snakebite.
French tarragon is the plant used as a
culinary herb for its pronounced, yet, delicate, aniseed like flavour. Russian
tarragon is lighter in colour and more piquant, but does not have such a
delicate taste. The narrow, elongated leaves of French tarragon have a fine
flavour and are used to season salads, sauces and pickles.Tarragon is one of
the herbs used in fines herbes. It is also a traditional aromatic for
flavouring chicken dishes, fish and eggs.Tarragon vinegar is a classic
ingredient for salad dressings and sauces.Tarragon leaves are used fresh or
they may be preserved by drying or freezing.
RECIPES
Tarragon cream
Boil 100 g (4 oz, 2
cups) chopped fresh tarragon with 150 ml ( ¼ pint 2/3 cup) dry white wine. When almost
completely dry, add 350 ml ( 12 ft oz, 1 ½ cups) thick bechamel sauce, season
with salt and pepper, bring to the boil for a few seconds, then rub through a
sieve. Reheat and add a little butter.
This puree is used as a filling for small
vol-auvent, barquettes or canapes and also for stuffing certain vegetables such
as artichoke hearts or mushrooms.
Tarragon puree (cold)
Blach 100 g (4 oz, 2
cups) tarragon leaves and cool under running water. Wipe them and pound in a
mortar (or use a blender) with the yolks of 6 hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs, 2
tablespoons butter, salt and pepper.
Tarragon pure (hot)
This is prepared in the
same way as tarragon cream, but with a very reduced bechamel sauce. It can also
be made by adding a puree of tarragon leaves (blanched, cooled under running
water, drained, pounded in a mortar
Tarragon sauce for
poached fowl
Add
a large handful of tarragon to the white stock in which the chicken was
poached. Skin the fat from the stock, strain
reduce and thicken with arrowroot/ Add some freshly chopped tarragon
just before serving.
Tarragon sauce for
small cuts of meat
Saute the meat in
butter, then remove from the pan. Make a
sauce from the pan juices by adding 100 ml ( 4 ft oz. 7 tablespoons ) white
wine, 1 tablespoon ) white wine 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon leaves and 200 ml
(7 ft oz, ¾ cup) stock.Boil down by half, adjust the seasoning and thicken with
beurre manie.
Tarragon sauce for soft
boilled or poached eggs
Coarsely chop 100 g ( 4
oz. 2 cups) washed and wiped tarragon leaves, add 100 ml (4 ft oz, 7
tablespoons) white wine, then boil down. Add 200 ml ( 7 ft oz, ¾ cup)
demi-glace or thickened brown veal stock and boil for a few moments. Strain
through a very fine sieve. Add 1 tablespoon fresh coarsely shredded tarragon
just before serving.
TART A pastry case (shell) filled, before or after
baking, with savoury or sweet ingredients. The words tart (tate) and flan are
often used interchangeably in Britain and France to designate a pastry filled
with fruit, jam, custard or some other filling. The American term often used is
open pie. Most such dishes are cooked and served in the United States in a pie
dish, whereas in Britain and France a metal than or pastry ring, placed on a
metal baking sheet, is used.
Savoury tarts are served as hot entrees and
include flans, quiches, onion, tomato or cheese tarts pasaladiere, flaniche,
and goyere. Sweet t arts are usually filled with fruit or a flavoured cream,
they are one of the commonest and most varied pastries.
To prepare a tart, a flan ring pie dish or
tin (pan0 is lined with suitable pastry short crust puff or sable and the
filling is placed in it. If the fruit
is to remain uncooked, the case is baked blind and filled after baking.
When the case is to receive a liquid filling, it is half baked, then filled.
Tarts of the galette type are baked
directly on baking sheet without a tin these are filled with narrow strips of
fruit and sprinkled with sugar.
Tarts baked with their filling are usually
made of shortcrust or puff pastry tarts are baked blind as rectangles edged
with puff-pastry strips, they are then
usually filed with confectioner’s custard and poached fruit, then
glazed. Other variaties include upside
down tarts, modelled on tarts tatin, tarts decorated with crisscrossed pastry
strips, known as France as absactenunes and including the Austria.
RECIPES
Savoury Tarts
Curd cheese tart
Mix 500 g (18 oz, 2 ¼
cups) well drained curd cheese with 5 tablespoons plain (all-purpose) flour,
the same amount of crème franche, 2 eggs, salt and a very little pepper. Pour
this mixture into an unbaked tart case (pie shell) made of shortcrust pastry
(basic pie dough) sprinkle with knobs of butter and bake in a preheated oven at
200 oC (400 oF, gas 6 ) for about 45 minutes, Serve cold.
Spinach tart
Quickly blanch 1.5 kg
(3 ¼ lb) young fresh spinach Chop coarsely and blend with 40-50 g ( 1 ½ -2 oz.
3-4 tablespoons) butter. Season with salt and pepper. Line a 20 cm (8 in)
tartin (pie pan), preferably made of cast iron for more rapid and even baking,
with puff pastry rolled out to a thickness of 5 mm (1 ¼ in) Fill pastry rolled
out to a thickness of 5 mm ( ¼ in) Fill it with the spinach .Drain 4 anchovy
fillets canned in oil and lay them on top of the tart in a criss-cross pattern.
Sprinkle the tart with few knobs of butter and bake in a preheated oven at 220
oC (425 oF, gas 7) oven for 20 minutes. The anchovy fillets may be replaced by
fresh sardines cooked very rapidly in a frying pan with a little olive oil.
Tomato tart
Make some puff pastry,
roll it out and use it to line a greased flan tin (pie pan) gently prick the
bottom. Mix together 6 whole eggs, 100 ml (4 ft oz, 7 tablespoons) crème
fraiche, 25 g ( 1 oz, 2 tablespoons)
butter and 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup)
grated Gruyere cheese. Add 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) tomatoes, peeled, seeded are crushed.
Mix well and season with salt and pepper. Fill the tart with this mixture and
bake in a preheated oven at 180 oC (350 oF, gas 4) for
about 45 minutes.
Sweet Tarts
Alsace tart
Beat 1 whole egg with
250 g ( 9 oz, 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, then add 125 g (4 ½ oz ½ cup)
melted butter. Work the mixture together. Gradually blend in 150 g ( 9 oz. 2 ¼
cups) sifted plain ( all-purpose) flour, then 250 g ( 9 oz, generous 2 ¼ cups) ground almonds. Knead thoroughly,
adding 1-2 tablespoons water, if the dough is difficult to work. Roll out three
quarters of the dough to form a circle 1 cm ( ½ in) thick, place this on a
buttered baking sheet. Roll out the remaining dough very thinly and cut it into
narrow strips. Surround the pastry circle with one of the strips and arrange
the others crisseross fashion on the disc.
Fill each section with
a different sort of jam (strawberry, plum or apricot, for example) and bake in
a preheated oven at 200 oC (400oF, gas 6) for 20 minutes. Serve
lukewarm or cold.
Apple Tart
In a food processor
blend 250 g ( 9 oz, 2 ¼ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, 125 g ( 4 ½ oz, ½ cup)
butter cut into pieces, and a large pinch of salt until the dough sticks to the
sides of the bowl. Add 3 tablespoons water (or a little more) and operate the
food processor again until the dough begins to bind together. Quickly shape the
dough into a ball, wrap it in foil and chill for 2 hours.
Peel and finely slice 800 g ( 1 ¾ lb) apples
and sprinkle with lemon juice. Roll out the dough to a thickness of 5 mm ( ¼
in) and use it to line a buttered and floured 25 cm (10 in) tart tin (pie pan)
Arrange the slices of apple over the pastry base in concentric circles,
sprinkle generously with granulated sugar and 50 g ( 2 oz, ¼ cup) melted
butter. Bake in a preheated oven at 220 oC (425 oF, gas 7) for about 30 minutes,
until the apples caramelize slightly. Serve lukewarm, accompanied by crème
fraiche.
Apricot tart
Make 350 g (12 oz)
shortcrust pastry (basic pie dough, see short pastry) Roll it out to a
thickness of 5 mm (1/4 in) and use it to line a 2 4 cm ( 9 ½ in) buttered and
floured flan tin (pie pan) Chill for 30 minutes. Prick the bottom with a fork.
Stone (pit) 800 g (1 ¾ lb) very ripe apricots and arrange the halves on the
bottom of the tart case, with the cut sides against the pastry. Sprinkle with 5
tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar. Bake in a preheated oven at 200 oC
(400 oF gas 6) for about 40 minutes. Turn out on to wire rack. Spread the top
with 3 tablespoons apricot compote, sieved and boiled down. Serve cold.
Basque tart
In a mixing bowl blend
300 g (11 oz, 2 ¾ cups) sifted plain (all-purpose) flour, 4 egg yuolks, a pinch
of salt 2 teaspoons baking powder, 100 g ( 4 oz, ½ cup0 caster (superfine)
sugar and 50 g ( 2 oz, ¼ cup0 softened butter, gradually add sufficient milk to
obtain a pilable yet firm dough. Put
aside for 1 hour. Roll out the dough and line a buttered 25 cm ( 10 in) flan
tin (pie pan). Prick the base with a fork and bake blind in a preheated oven at
200 oC (400 oF, gas 6) for 20 minutes.
Meanwhile, peel and quarter 12 apples. Remove
the cres and sprinkle with lemon juice. Melt 100 g ( 4 oz, ½ cup) butter in a
saucepan, cook the apples to a pale golden colour, sprinkle with 100 g ( 4 oz,
½ cup) caster sugar and gently stir. Arrange the apples on the tart base in a
rosette and sprinkle with the butter they were cooked in. Sprinkle with 2
tablespoons granulated sugar and glaze for 5 minute, either in a very hot oven
or under the grill (broiler).
Cherry tart
Line a flan tin (pie
pan) with short crust pastry (basic pie dough) and fill with ripe stoned
(pitted) cherries. Whisk together 200 g ( 4 oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
and 2 whole eggs, then blend in 200 ml ( 7 ft oz, ¾ cup) milk and 50 g ( 2 oz,
½ cup) plain (all-purpose) flour. Pour this cream over the cherries and bake the
tart in a preheated oven at 200 oC (400 oF, gas 6 ) for about 30 minutes.
Alternatively use the same method as for apricot tart.
Chocolate tart
Prepare a chocolate
sable pastry with 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter 50 g ( 2 oz. ½ cup) icing
(confectioner’s) sugar, 50 g (1 oz, ½ cup) ground almnds,1 whole egg, 175 g ( 6
oz, 1 ½ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour and 3 tablespoons sifted cocoa powder
(see short pastry).Allow to rest for 2 hours in a cool place. Roll out the
pastry and the line a flan tin (pie pan) Bake in a preheated oven at 180 oC
(350 oF, gas 4) for about 40 minutes and leave to cool. Bring 250 ml
( 8 ft oz, 1 cup) glucose. Pour on to 200 g ( 7 oz. 7 squares) cooking
chocolate with 80% cocoa content, broken up into small pieces, and 50 g (2 oz ¼ cup) pure cocoa paste. Add 50 g ( 2 oz ¼
cup) butter. Allow to cool but not thicken. Sprinkle 25 g ( 1 oz, ¼ cup)
toasted chopped almonds on the bottom and pour the chocolate ganache on top.
Curd cheese (megin)
tart a la mode de Metz
Prepare a short crust
pastry (basic pie dough) tart base 9shell) . Mix 200 g ( 7 oz, 1 cup)
well-drained curd cheese ( called fremgin or me’gin) 100-200 ml (4-7 ft oz ½- ¾
cup) crème fraiche, 3 beaten eggs, 2-3 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar and
a pinch of salt, flavour, if desired with 1 teaspoon vanilla sugar or some
vanilla essence (extract).Fill the base with this mixture and bake in a
preheated oven at 200 oC (400 oF, gas 6 ) for about 35
minutes.
German cherry tart
Prepare some puff
pastry and roll it out to a thickness of 5 mm ( ¼ in) Use it to line a flan tin
(pie pan)moistening the edges of the pastry and pinching them to make a border.
Prick the base with a fork. Sprinkle with a little caster (superfine) sugar and
pinch of powdered cinnamon. Over the base arrange some stone (pitted) cherries
(fresh or canned, well-drained ) and bake in a preheated oven at 200 oC
(400 oF, gas 6) for about 30 minutes. Allow to cool, then coat the
top with a generous layer of sweetened cherry puree, prepared by cooking some
cherries in sugar. To finish, bake some fine breadcrumbs to pale golden colour
in the oven and sprinkle them over the tart.
German gooseberry tart
Clean some large ripe
gooseberries. Prepare a puff pastry tart base and bake blind. Mix the
gooseberries in a saucepan with an equal weight of sugar cooked to the crack
stage when the juice until it sets into a jelly. Put the gooseberries back into
the syrup, boil together for a moment, then pour into a basin. When cool, use
it to fill the tart mask with whipped cream.
Lemon Tart
Make a tart case
(shell) of short crust pastry (basic pie dough) and bake blind until the pastry
is crisp but not completely cooked. Mix together 3 eggs, 100 g ( 4 oz, 1/2 cup)
sugar 75 g ( 3 oz, 6 tablespoons) melted butter, the juice of 5 lemons and
their grated zest. Whisk and pour into the tart case. Bake in a preheated oven
at 240 oC (475 oF, gas 9) 10-15 minutes.
This recipe can be made using 3 oranges or 7
tangerines instead of the lemons.
Pineapple tart
Prepare some short
pastry with 150 g ( 5 oz, 1 ¼ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, 75 g ( 3 oz 6
tablespoons) softened butter, a pinch of salt and a little cold water. When it
is pliable and well-mixed, roll it out and use it to line a 22 cm (8 ½ in) buttered flan tin (pie pan)
prick the base with a fork. Leave in a cool place for 2 hours, then bake blind
in a preheated oven at 200 oC(400 oF, gas 6) for 20
minutes.
Meanwhile, mix together 2 egg yolks, 75 g (
3 oz, 6 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar, 1 teaspoon flour and 175 ml (6
ft oz, ¾ cup) milk. Stir this mixture over a low heat until it thickens, then
add the juice of half a lemon and 60 ml ( 2 ft oz, ¼ cup0 reduced pineapple
syrup. Take the tart case out of the
oven, allow it to cool then pour in the
pineapple cream and arrange on top 6 slices of canned pineapple, well-drained
Whisk 2 egg whites to stiff peaks, pour over the fruit and sprinkle with 25 g
(1 oz, 2 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar. Return to the oven at the same
temperature and cook for 10 minutes to brown the merigue mixture. Leave in a
cool place until just before serving.
Puff-pastry apple tart
Prepare an apple
compote with 800 g ( 1 ¾ lb) appeals, the juice of half a lemon, 150 g ( 5 oz.
2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and 1
teaspoon vanilla sugar. Sieve, heat gently to dry off the excess liquid.
Prepare 400 g (14 oz) puff pastry. Roll it out to form a rectangle 30 x 13 cm (
12 x 5 in) Make a border, with a small strip of pastry about 1 cm ( ½ in) wide.
Bake blind. Thinly slice 500 g (1 8 oz) crisp apples and saute them in 50 g ( 2
oz. ¼ cup) butter until they are brown but
still intact. Spread the apple compote over the cooked base, decorate
with the slices of apple and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons icing (confectioner’s)
sugar, then glaze in the oven or under the grill (broiler).
Rasphberry tart
Prepare some short
pastry (basic pie dough) using 300 g ( 11 oz. 2 ¾ cups) plain (all-purpose)
flour, 1 eggs, a pinch of salt, 125 g ( 4 ½ oz, ½ cup) butter and 5 tablespoons
water. Roll it into a ball and leave it in a cool place for 1 hour. Then roll
it out to a thickness of 3-4 mm (about ¼ in) and use to line a 24 cm ( 9 ½ in)
tart tin (pie pan). Prick the base and bake blind. Prepare some confectioner’s
custard (pastry cream, see custard ) using 50 g ( 2 oz ½ cup) plain flour, 20 g
( ¾ oz, 1 ½ tablespoons) butter 175 g ( 6
oz. ¾ cup) sugar, 4 eggs, 500 ml
(17 ft oz., 2 cups) milk and a vanilla pod (bean) Leave to cool. Pick over 500
g ( 18 oz. 3 ½ cups) raspberries on top
and coat them with melted redcurrant and raspberry jelly. Serve chilled.
Strawberry tart
Sort, wash and hull 1
kg ( 2 ¼ lb 7 ½ cups) strawberries. Put them in an earthenware bowl and
sprinkle with the juice of 1 lemon and 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) caster (superfine)
sugar. Prepare short pastry using 300 g ( 11 oz. 2 ¾
cups) plain ( all purpose) flour,
150 g (5 oz, 2/3 cup) softened butter, a pinch of salt and 2 tablespoons water.
Roll it into a ball and leave it in a cool place for 2 hours. Then roll out the
pastry and use it to line a buttered and floured 2 cm (11 in 0 tart tin (pie
pan). Prick the base with a fork and
bake blind.When the tart is cool, fill it with the strawberries. Mix 60
ml ( 2 ft oz, ¼ cup) redcurrant jelly with the juice drained from the
strawberries and pour this syrup over the tart. The top can be decorated with
whipped cream.’
Swiss wine tart
Mix 350 g ( 12 oz, 3
cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, a pinch of salt and 1 tablespoon caster
(superfine) sugar. Add 75 g (3 oz, 6 tablespoons) softened butter and 15 g ( ½
oz. 1 cake) fresh (compressed) yeast
mixed with 3 tablespoons milk. Alternatively sprinkle 1 ½ teaspoons dried
(active dry) yeast over the milk, whisk with a balloon whisk until dissolved
and leave in warm place until frothy before adding it to the other ingredients.
Rapidly work the ingredients, then roll the dough into a ball and set aside for
2 hours. Roll it out and use it to line a buttered tart tin (pie pan) Beat 3
eggs with 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) sugar until the mixture into the tart case
(shell) Bake in a preheated oven at 220 oF (425 oF, gas 7) for 20 minutes. Take
out the tart, sprinkle with caster sugar and knobs of butter, then return it to
the oven for a further 15 minutes. Serve lukewarm.
TARTAR A crystalline
deposit left inside wine casks after racking.This by product of wine consists
mainly of crude potassium acid tartrate, which when purified, gives cream of
tartar, used in baking.
Tartaric acid is one of two principal acids
found in grapes, the other being malic acid. If the must lacks acidity some
tartaric acid may be added to it if the relevant wine laws allow for this
.Acidity help to preserve wine and affects it stability and colour.
TARTARE, A LA A term originally describing dishes covered
with breadcrumbs, grilled (broiled) and served with a highly seasoned sauce,
but now usually used for a sauce or a raw meat dish. Tartare sauce is a
mayonnaise made with hard boiled (hard cooked) egg yolks, onion and chives and
is served with fish, calves feet, oysters and pont-neuf potatoes. Steak
tartare is made with minced (ground)beef
or horse meat, according to the purist) served raw with egg yolk and
seasoning. In Belgium, the dish is called fillet americain.
The expression a la tartare is also applied
to various highly seasoned cold or hot dishes paupiettes of anchovies spread
with horseadish butter or fried eggs on a bed of mineral (ground) beef seasoned
with paprika, for example.
RECIPES
Anchovy fillets a la
tartare
Thoroughly deasalt 12
anchovy fillets. Mix 1 tablespoon finely grated horseradish with the same
amount of butter. Mask each fillet with a little of this flavoured butter and
roll it into a paupiette. Cut some cooked beetroot (beet) into slices 5 mm (1/4
in) thick and trim them with a flutted cutter. Place 1 anchovy paupiette on
each slice. Garnish with a little sieved hard boiled (hard-cooked) egg and
chopped parsley, then a few capers. Sprinkle with vinaigrette and serve
thoroughly chilled.
Steak tartare
Mince (grind) 150-200 g
( 5-7 oz) lean beef (rump steak, sirloin or top rump) Season with salt and
pepper, a little cayenne and a few drops of Worcestershire sauce or Tabaco.
Shape the meat into a ball, place it on a plate, hollow out the centre and put
a raw egg yolk in the hollow. Around the meat arrange 1 tablespoon each of
chopped onion, chopped parsley and chopped shallots and 1 teaspoon drained
capers. Serve with tomato ketchup, olive oil and Worcestershire sauce.
Tartare sauce
Prepare some
mayonnaise, replacing the raw egg yolk with hard-boiled (hardcooked) egg yolk.
Add some finely chopped chives and chopped spring onion (scallion).
Alternatively, a mixture of raw, egg yolk and
hardboiled egg yolk can be used, and chopped herbs can replace the chieves and
onion.
TARTE AU SUCRE Brioche pastry case covered with a cooked
mixture of sugar of verjuice, nuts of butter and beaten egg. This speciality of
northern France is eaten warm.
TARTINE The French word
for a slice of bread spread with butter, jam or any other suitable substance of
spreading consistency.
TARTLET A small individual tart made in the same way as a large tart and
with the same fillings.Tartlets filled with fruit, creams or other sweet
mixtures are served as a dessert, savoury tarlets are served as hors d’ocuvre
or small entrees.
RECEIPES
Coffee or chocolate
tarlets
Line some greased
tarlet tins (pans) with sable pastry. Prik the botton with fork and bake blind
for about 10 minute.sAllow of the cases with French coffee butter cream and the
remainder with Chantily cream flavoured with chocolate and rum.
Walnut and honey
tartlets
Line some greased
tartlet tins (pans) with shortcrust pastry (basic pie dough) Sprinkle them with
crushed walnuts and arrange some narrow strips of pastry in a crisscross
pattern on the top. Brush with beaten egg and bake in a preheated oven at 200 oC
(425 oF, gas 7) for about 15 minutes. When they are cooked, coat
them with acacia honey.
TASSAU A meat dish that
is typical of West Indian and Central American cookery. It is made by steeping
some pieces of meat (beef, veal or poultry) for several hours in a chilled and
very spicy courtbouillon containing
pepper, cloves, thyme, chilli, onion, limes and chieves. The meat is then
poached rapidly in the court bouillon, drained and then either grilled
(broiled) or fried. Tassau is served either with boiled bananas or with fried
sweet potatoes.
TASTE The sense by
which the flavours of food are perceived, the organ used being the tongue,
which is equipped with taste buds. It is possible to distinguish four basic
tastes salt, acid, sweet and bitter, which, combined in different ways,
determine the states of everything we eat. From a gastronomic point of view,
the sense of taste is closely associated with the sense of smell. The aroma of
a dish provides a good deal of information about its taste, and the sense of
smell contributes greatly to the sense of t taste while actually eating this is
why food seems tasteless to anyone who has a cold.
TASTER A specialist who
judges the quality of a drink or a food by its taste. No instrument has been
devised to rival a properly trained human palate, particularly in the area of
wine tasting, where the test consists of savouring the wine by rolling it in
one’s mouth so that all its qualities are brought out. In Paris there is still
a Compagnie de Countier Gourmets Piquers de Vins, which dates back to the time
of Philip the Fair. The word piqueur derives from a tool called a couple de
poing a take a sample.The food industry often makes use of professional
tasters.Tea, coffee, butter, foie gras and oil, and tested by panels, which
consist of groups of tasters whose opinions are cross-checked.
TASTING The critical appraised of a food or drink via
its impression on the senses. Although many foods are tasted, from basic items
such as butter, oil and tea to the luxury foods, such as foie gras and fine
chocolates, the word is usually applied to the tasting of wines and spirits.
The professional taster adopts the same
procedure for both wines and spirits, but a spirit whether on its own or broken
down with water, is seldom actually put in the mouth, it is mainly sniffed. In
blind tasting the identity of the liquid is not known. There are three main
stages in tasting looking, sniffing and appraising the liquid in a mouth. The
taster will look at the colour and limpidity of the liquid and will then sniff at it. Then a small
quantity is taken into the mouth, usually with a certain amount of air, which
is drawn through the liquid, the sample is pulled around to make contact with
the top and sides of the mouth and the tongue.
The registering of impressions conveyed by
the smell is of great importance and much may be learned from this stage of
tasting, although only experience can enable one to interpret the messages
received by the nose from a wine or spirit. When the wine gets into the mouth,
another set of impressions are registered flavoured associated with particular
grapes, regions and even makers and, with both the smells and the tastes,
certain faults, in the wine can be picked out.
TATIN The name given to a tart of caramelized apples that is cooked under a lid of pastry
and then inverted to be served with the pastry underneath and the fruit on
top.This delicious tart, in which the taste of caramel is combined with the
flavour of apples cooked in butter under a golden crispy pastry crust,
established the reputation of the Tatin sisters, who ran a hotel restaurant in
Lamotte. Beuvron at the beginning of the 20th century. However, the
upsidedown tart, made with apples or pears, is an ancient speciality of Sologne
and is found throughout Orleanis . Having been made famous by theTatin sisters,
it was first served in Paris at Maxims where it remains a speciality to the
present day.
RECIPE
Tarte Tatin
Mix 200 g ( 7 oz, scant
1 cup) sugar with 2 25 g (8 oz, 1 cup0 butter. Smear this over the bottom and
sides of a 23 cm ( 9 in) tarte Tatin tin (pan) or flameproof shallow baking tin
or dish.
Peel and core 800 g ( 1 ¾ lb) apples and cut
them into quarters or wedges, if large. Trim the pointed ends off the pieces of
apple, then arrange them in concentric circles in the tin adding the trimmed
off corners to fill in the gaps. When the apples are neatly packed in place,
cook over a fairly high heat until the butter
and sugar form a golden caramel. The mixture will rise as it boils and
coats the apples, remove the tin from the heat to prevent it from boiling over.
Leave until completely cold.
Make about 350 g ( 12 oz) shrotcrust pastry
(basic pie dough) roll it into a ball, and leave it in a cool place for 2 hours
Roll out the pastry into a circle 3 mm (1/8 in) thick.
Cover the apples with the pastry, tucking it
inside the edge of the tin so that the fruit is contained. Bake in preheated
oven at 200 oC (400 oF, gas 6) for 20-30 minutes.
Place a serving dish on top of the tin and
turn the tart upside down. Remove the tin. Serve warm, with crème fraiche.
TAVERN Originally a tavern in France was simply a
wine shop, as distinct from the cabaret, which also provided metals. In 1698,
tavern keepers were given permission to serve meat, provided that it was
prepared elsewhere, at the rotisserie or the charcuterie. Ten years later, they
were allowed to cook meat o n the premises, but they were still forbidden to
cook ragouts, which were the prerogative of the traiterus, Nowadays a tavern is
usually a brasserie or a restaurant with traditional décor.
TAVERNE ANGLAISE The name given to several Parisian
restaurants that specialized in English food. The first Taverne anglaise, which was also known
as the Grande Taverne de Londres, was opened by Beauvilliers at the
Palais-Royal in 1782. Later, he founded another establishment in his own
name.There was also a Taverne anglaise in the Rue Taranne, in Saint Germain
des-Pres.
The Englishman Richard Lucas opened a Taverne
anglaise in 1832 and the menu included roast beef and Yokshire pudding. This
establishment be came the Restaurant Lucas and subsequently the Lucas carton. A
fourth Taverne anglaise opened in 1870 in the Rue de Richelleu, it served rare
meat, rib of beef and rhubath tart.
TCHORBA A thick soup
from Arab cookery made with pieces of sheep’s tail and mutton cutlets.The meat
is browned in oil with onions, and tomatoes, mixed with courgette garlic, thyme
and bay leaves, then cooked in plenty of water with white haricot (navy0 beans
or chick peas, and seasoned with red pepper, black pepper and saffon. Before
serving some macaroni or vermicelli or dried fruit are added to the soup.
Similar dishes are found in Balkan cookery,
corba beef soup with sweet (bell) pepper and onion, thickened with rice, from
the former’s Yugoslavia, and Romanian or Bulgarian Clorba, a sharp tasting soup
made with beef and vegetables which may be seasoned with lemon.
TEA The most universally consumed beverage made
by infusing the dried leaves of an Asiatic evergreen shrub Camella sinensis.
There are two main varieties of teas plant, that of China and that of India,
with numerous local varieties and hybrids. Climate, soil altitude and orientation of all affect the growth and
quality of the plants, and therefore the colour, fragrance and taste of the
tea. The best plants are cultivated at an altitude of about 2000 metres (6500
ft) and are picked in the spring. Growing are situated at latitudes between 42
oN and 31 oS, in regions with a hot humid climate and winters
that are neither too cold nor too dry.
It is thought that tea cultivation
originated in China around 3000 BC and spread to Japan in about AD 780. It was
not grown in India until the 1840s, and in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) the first tea
estate was planted in 1867. The beverage was brought to Europe in the 17th
century by the Dutch, and reached England in 1644. It arrived in American in
the early 18th century. At first regarded primarily as a medicinal
beverage, tea drinking soon became fashionable with the aristocracy and then
popular at all levels of society.
Today the principal tea producers are India,
Sri Lanka, China, Japan, Indonesia, East Africa, Latin America and parts of
Russia. In Britain, tea is mostly taken
with milk and sometimes sugar, and drunk at regular intervals throughout the
day. The drinking of tea is important in China and in Japan, where the tea
ceremony has influenced social life, art, religion and philosophy.
Green Tea. A speciality
of China and Japan prepared by
subjecting the leaves to fierce heat, given tea forms the basis of the Japanese
tea ceremony, an important part of Japanese social life, and culture. It is
also highly favoured by theChinese and Muslins, who are forbidden to drink
fermented tea.The varieties are Gunpowder the rolled leaves of which are
similar to small shot about 3 mm (1/8 in ) long.Tychen known as Coarse Gunpowder or Imperial Tea.
Having larger pellet sized rolled leaves, Moroccan mint tea, which is very
refreshing and Japanese tea which gives a highlyc oloured infusion.
Black tea Whether from China or elsewhere there are five stages in its
preparation withering, when the leaf is dried ane softened, rolling during
which the cells of the leaves are broken down to release and mix the
constitutents, moist fermentation for
2-3 hours at 27 oC (81 oF) desiccation for 20 minutes at
90 oC (194 oF) and sorting or grading.The three main
types of black tea come from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) India and China.
RECIPES
China tea
Boil 1 litre (1 ¾ pints,
4 1/3 cups) water in an enamel kettle.
When the water starts to boil vigorously, pour
a little into a teapot (made of earthenware or porcelain) Shake the
teapot for 30 seconds so that it is heated evenly. Pour the water away. Put 2
teaspoons black tea into the teapot, fill with boiling water, put on the lid and leave for 2 minutes. Pour the tea
into a large cup, then immediately pour it back into the teapot ( this
operation brings out the fragrance of the tea) Allow the infuse for a further 2
minutes, then serve.
Eggs with tea leaves –
Chinese
Put 6 eggs into a
saucepan with 500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups) cold water. Leave the pan uncovered and
simmer for 20 minutes. Allow to cool. Remove the eggs and crack the shells by
tapping with the back of a spoon over the entire surface. Put the eggs back
into the saucepan with 500 ml (17 ft oz. 2 cups) cold water, 1 tablespoon salt,
2 tablespoons soy sauce. 1 star anise and 2 teaspoons black China tea. Bring to
the boil, then reduce the heat as much as possible and cook gently for 2 hours.
Then eggs must always be covered with liquid (add boiling water as necessary)
Remove the saucepan from the heat and allow the eggs to steep in the cooking
liquid for 8 hours. Just before serving, shell the eggs. Cut them in half
lengthways and serve them with thin strips of cold roast pork and a salad of
sprouted soya beans with mushrooms, seasoned with soy sauce vinaigrette.
Ice tea
Prepare an infusion
of green tea and add a sprig of fresh
mint. Strain the tea, pour it into a carafe, sweeten it slightly, allow it to
cool, then chill it for at least an hour
Indian tea with milk
and spices
Pour 500 ml (17 ft oz,
2 cups) milk into a saucepan and add 1 cinnamon stick, 2 crushed cloves, 2
crushed cardomon seeds and 1 piece of fresh root ginger (peeled and chopped)
Bring to the boil, then add 1 ½ tablespoons tea and some caster (superfine)
sugar, according to taste. Boil for 1-2 minutes, cover remove from the heat and
allow to infuse for at least 708 minutes. Strain the infusion and serve very
hot.
Lamb with prunes, tea
and almonds Algerian
Bone 1 kg (2 ¼ lb)
shoulder of lamb, remove the fat and cut the meat into large dice. Sprinkle
with finely ground salt and cook it in a
casserole with butter until golden brown. Drain, Add to the butter in the
casserole 250 ml ( 8 ft oz, 1 cup) water 1 cinnamon stick chopped into pieces
50 g ( 2 oz. ½ cup) blanched almonds, 200 g ( 7 oz, 1 cup) caster (superfine)
sugar and 2 tablespoons orange flower water. Bring this mixture rapidly to the boil,
stirring continuously. Replace the meat, cover the pan and allow to simmer over
a low heat for 45 minutes Meanwhile, soak 350 g (12 oz. 2 cups) stoned (pitted)
prunes in very strong green tea. Add the prunes and tea to the casserole and
cook for a further 10 minutes.
Tea sorbet
Prepare quite a strong infusion of tea according to
taste.Add sugar in the proportion of 300 g (11 oz, 1 ½ cups) per 1 litre (1 ¾
pints, 4 1/3 cups) and allow to set in a
chum freezer. Prunes cut up into tiny pieces may be added to the sorbet. Green
tea flavoured with jasmine gives excellent results.
Tuna fish in tea-
Vietnamese
Brown a bluefin tuna st
eak, weighing about 800 g ( 1 ¾ lb) in oil in a frying pan. Meanwhile, prepare
an infusion of fairly strong tea (black China tea or lotus tea0 Put the tuna
into a saucepan together with 100 g ( 4 oz, ½ cup) diced fresh unsalted belly
of pork .Add a piece of fresh root
ginger cut into thin strips, pepper 1-2 teaspoons nuoc-mam (Vietnamese fish
sauce) a lump of sugar and the tea (ensure that the liquid just covers the
fish) simmer over a gentle heat for 1 hour.
TEAL A small wild duck, several species of which
are hunted in France, including the common teal, which rarely migrate and is
found in France and Britain all year round, and the summer teal, which comes
from Africa, as well as the Baikal teal, the marbled teal and the sickled teal.
In the United States there are various species the most common being the green
winged teal.The teal is more difficult to hunt than the mallard because of its
jerky flight, but is cooked in the same way. Its brownish and rather bitter
meat is much sought after by connoisseurs. In the Middle Ages it was considered to be a lean
meat, that is one that could be eaten on fast days, Teal, like all wild ducks,
is roasted blood rare and seldom braised.
TEAPOT A receptacle with a lid, a spout and a
handle, used to prepare and serve tea.Teapots come in various sizes and can be
made of various different materials, including porcelain, fatence, earthenware
and metal.
An innovation prepared in the 19th
century a trells, or a screen pierced with small hotels, placed inside, at the
base of the spout, thereby preventing the leaves from pouring into the cup with
the infusion. However, this does not mean that a strainer need not be used
.Some models also have an internal strainer, which is fitted to the opening of
the teapot. The tea leaves are placed in it before the water is poured in. The
first metal teapots appeared in France at the end of the 17th
century. Those made of porcelain and patience came initially from China and
Japan, then later from Meissen and Sevres.
TEA ROOM An establishment in which tea, hot chocolate,
coffee, soft drinks and cakes (and sometimes savoury pastries or egg dishes,
salads, sandwiches, croque monsier and so on) are served in the afternoon or at
lunch time. Nowadays, tea rooms are usually part of a baker’s shop or a large
store.The luxurious tea rooms found in larger cities in the first half of the
20th century, where society ladies met for five o’clock tea, are now
disappearing.
TEA – THE MEAL A
light meal in the afternoon, at which
sandwiches, pastries and cakes are served with tea. A rather more substantial
meal is high tea (or meat tea) which is taken particularly in Scotland and the
north of England, where the evening meal is replaced by a tea served with cold
meat, fish and salads, as well as buttered rolls, toast and cakes. Afternoon
tea taken at the five o’clocks was launched by the Duchess of Bedlord in about
1830 (at that time lunch was served quite, early and dinner was served late).
It provided an opportunity to display tea services made of porcelain or silver
plate, to create recipes for cakes and biscuits (cookies) and to lay down rules
of etiquette associated with the occasion . The most common items of an English
tea are bread and butter, scones, muffins, crumpets, buns, cakes, biscuits,
gingerbread and shortbread with jams and jellies, lemon curd and other spreads.
TEMPURA Typically
Japanese shrimp or vegetable fritter, using a light batter made with wheat
flour, water and eggs.Tempura is traditionally accompanied by a lightly
sweetened sauce and a white radish puree sprinkled with ginger. It is perhaps
the most important Japanese dish, now
known as enjoyed throughout the western world.
TENCH A European
freshwater fish found in ponds and quet waterways. It is 15-30 cm (6-12 in)
long, with barbedl on each side of the mouth, and has tiny olive green to
reddish brown scales covered with thick mucus. Fish caught in clear water are
delicious especially sicne tench do not have too many bones. But ones caught in
muddy waters may be trained, which is why fishermen pour a spoonful of vinegar
into their mouths as soon as the fish is caught, then soat them in water. Tench
is generally used in matelotes and can also be fried or prepared a la memiere.
In the past it was more popular, being cooked in court bouillon or a la bonne
femme and used in soups, ragouts and pies.
TENDE-DE-TRANCHE A French cut of beef taken from the top of
the thigh.Classified as second category beef, it nevertheless provides cuts for
steaks, dessous-de tranche merlan potre
and morceaux du boucher .Tende-de-tranche can also be roasted.
TENDERIZING Even good quality meat may be tough for
several hours after slaughtering. The storage or hanging of meat at low
temperatures, 0-2 oC (32-36 oF) enables it to mature and
become tender before it is sold.
The cook can also encourage tenderizing
during preparation and by using the appropriate cooking method. Meat can be
beaten or flattened with a steak mallet,
which helps to make it more tender. Meat may also be tenderized by
soaking it in a marinade. Lengthly marinating in acidic ingredients, such as yogurt
or citrus fruit juice, for 1-2 days, encourages tender results. Papain, an
enzyme found in plants, and fruit in particular, is used full for culinary
purposes, breaking down protein, effectively digesting it and making it tender.
The texture of the meat changes it becomes t ender but dry rather than
succulent fruit makes the poultry crumbly, dry and quite unpleasant in texture,
it becomes almost curdled.
Papaya and pineapple are both rich in
papain, and using them in marinade produces tender must. The enzymes is
destroyed at high temperatures, so canned fruit does not have the same effect
and cooking meat with the fruit, without marinating, will provide only a short
period, during the initial brief heating when the enzyme can take effect before
being destroyed.
Generally, the effect of low slow and moist
cooking is the one relied on to rendendize tough meats. Tender cuts do not
require lengthy cooking dry methods and shorter ties make them palatable.
TENDRET, LUCIEN French
lawyer and gastronome (born Belley, 1825, died Belley, 1896) He was a
compatriot and distant relative of Brillant Savarin and a scholar who was
passionately interested in food . In 1892, he published La Table au pays de
Brillant Savarin, in which he chicken Celestine, a Lyonais speciality as well
as recipes for the thee famous paties en crole of Belley, the oreller de la
Belle Arure, the toque du president Adophe Clerc, and the chapean de
mouseigneur Gabriel Cortois de Quincey rich in game, poultry truffles and foie
gras.
TENDRON A piece of beef
or veal cut from the extremities of the ribs, from the point at which the chops
are generally cut, to the st ernum.Tendrous of veal, which contain a few small
cartilages, are streaked with fat and are very smooth. They are used for
blaquette, braised or sauteed veal, or veal Merengo.. If they include
sufficient lean meat, they can be cur into slices potroasted or braised as
cotes paristenes, and the garnished with fresh pasta, risotto braised spinach
in butter or braised carrots, Tendrons
of beef are streaky pieces of meat used for brasing and for pot-au-feu.
RECIPES
Braied tendrons of veal
a la bourgeoise
Braise 4 tendrons of
veal, when half cooked, add 12 small glazed onions, 12 shaped and glazed
carrots, and 50 g ( 2 oz, ¼ cup) diced streaky (slab0 bacon (blanched and fried)
Finish the cooking, drain the tendrons and arrange them on an oven proof
serving dish. Sprinkle them with a little of the cooking juices and glaze in a
preheated oven at 230 oC (450 oF, gas 8) Serve piping
hot, garnished with the vegetables and the diced bacon.
Tendrons of veal
chasseur
Cook 4 tendrons in a
shallow frying pan with 25 g (1 oz, 2
tablespoons) butter (10 minutes on each side) Drain them and keep them
hot on a serving dish. Add 200 g ( 7 oz, 2 1/3 cups) finely sliced mushrooms to
the pan, brown them, and then add 3 tablespoons each of stock, white wine and
tomato sauce. Add 2 chopped shallots, then boil down by at least half. Pour the
mushrooms and sauce over the tendrons, sprinkle with chopped herbs and serve
piping hot.
Tendrons of veal with
spinach or sorrel
Braise some tendrons of
veal and some spinach (or sorrel) in butter in separate pans. Drain the
tendrons, arrange them on a hot dish and sprinkle with the cooking juices.
Garnish with the drained and buttered vegetables.
TEQUILA A spirit made
in several Mexican stales from the plan Agare lequilana.The pulp of this plant
is chopped up and baked to extract the sap. Then it is shredded and pressed, so
that the juice runs out and begins to ferment. Subsequently it undergoes a
double distillation. Some tequilla is
aged in wood, gaining colour, the best is usually five years old and golden in tone. Unless tequila
is part of a cocktail, it is traditionally drunk from a small glass, the drinker puts some
salt in the join of his thumb and forefinger, licks a slice of lime or lemon
and knocks the reflex of the wrist so that the salt jumps up to the mouth. The
tequila is then drunk is a single gulp.
TERIYAKI Japanese dish
of grilled food glazed with a sauce of soy sauce, mirin or sake and sugar to
give an excellent flavour and rich colour. The food fish, chicken meat or
vegetables may be marinated before cooking. Teriyaki sauce is available as a
commercial product.
TERRINE A fairly deep dish with straight sides, grips or handles, and tightly fitting lid
that rests on an inner lip. Terrines are manufactured in a wide range of sizes, they can be made of
glazed earthenware or of porcelain, ovenproof glass or even enamel cast iron.
The food cooked or served in such a container is also known as a terrine.
The word terrine in France is also the name
of a stoneware utensil shaped like a
truncated cone with a wide rim and, sometimes, a pouring spout, it is used to
hold milk, or cream to work a forcemeat or a paste or to sleep a foodstuff. A
terrine may also be a shimple serving utensil used to present dishes such as
pickled herring fillets or mushrooms.
RECIPES
Terrine de body
Cut 575 g ( 1 ¼ lb)
veal escalopes and 400 g ( 14 oz) smoked belly of pork into fine strips. Finely
chop 16 shallots and a bunch of parsley and season with 2 teaspoons ground
black pepper. Arrange the ingredients in a terrine as follows, first a layer of
pork belly, then a layer of veal, then a layer of shallots and parsley,
continuing this way until the ingredients are used up, finishing with a layer
of pork. Moisten each layer with a little dry white wine and press down hard.
Cover the terrine and place it in a bain
marie. Bring to the boil on the hob (stove top), then cook in a preheated oven
at 180 oC (350 oF, gas 4) for terrine before allowing it
to cool. Chill for at least 24 hours before serving.
Terrine de I ocean
Scale, gut and clean a
1 kg (2 ¼ lb) pike, 500 g ( 18 oz) fresh salmon and 2 large red mullet. Lift
out the fillets and ensure that no bones
remain. Reserve the trimmings.
Cut an 800 g ( 1 ¾ lb) lobster in half, seal
it in 40 g ( 1 ½ oz. 3 tablespoons ) slightly salted butter, then remove the shell and put it to one side. Clean 1 kg
( 2 ¼ lb) mussels and cook in a covered pan until they open. Remove the flesh
and retain the cooking juices.
Prepare the forcemeat as follows, wash 500 g
( 18 oz) leeks and finely slice the white a parts, chop 2 garlic cloves and 4
shallots. Soften all these vegetables In 40 g
( 1 ½ oz, 3
tablespoons) slightly salted butter. Add 200 g ( 7 oz, 3 cups) coarsely chopped
sorrel, then the leaves the fillets of pike and then the lobster flesh. Blend
in the leek and sorrel mixture. Season with salt and pepper, add a pinch of
four spices, 2 tablespoons mustard and 3 whole eggs. Mix thoroughly then add
the mussels.
Terrine of duckling
Bone a duckling
weighing about 1.25 kg (2 ¼ lb) without damaging the breast meat. Cut the
latter into even strips, together with 300 g ( 11oz) bacon fat. Put the meat
into a bowl with salt, pepper, ½ teaspoon four spices, 4 tablespoons brandy, a
chopped bay leaf and a small sprig of fresh thyme with the leaves removed.
Thoroughly soak the meat in this mixture and marinate for 24 hours in a cool
place. Put the rest of the duck in the refrigerator. Soak an intact pig’s caul
(caul fat) in cold water, then squeeze and wipe it dry.
Prepare a duxelles with 250 g (9 oz. 3 cups)
button mushrooms, 2 or 3 shallots, salt and pepper.
Finely chop 350 g (12 oz) fresh belly of
pork, 1 onion, the remaining duck meat and the blanched zest of an orange. Mix
the duxelles and the chopped meat in a bowl with 2 eggs, pepper and salt. Work
the mixture well to make it homogeneous. Work the mixture well to make it
homogeneous, adding the marinade in which the strips of bacon fat and duck were
steeped.
Line the terrine with the caul. Arrange half
of the forcemeat in an even layer.Cover with alternating strips of the
marinated duck and bacon fat. Cover with the rest of the forcemeat. Press down
the caul on the contents of the terrine and trim. Place a bay leaf and 2 small
sprigs of fresh thyme on top and then put on the lid.
Place the terrine in a bain marie, bring to
the boil on the hob (stove top), then cook in preheated oven at 180 oC(350
oF, gas 4) for 1 ½ hours. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. When
lukewarm, take off the lid and replace with a weighted board. Allow the terrine
to cool completely.
An aspic flavoured with port can be poured
into the terrine and allowed to set. To preserve the terrine, cover with a fine
layer of melted goose fat.
Terrine of pheasant,
partridge of quail
Proceed as for terrine of duckling, but arrange the
forcemeat in 3 layers, one separated by strips of meat, and the next by a thin
layer of foie gras and diced truffle.
Terrine of veal with
spring vegetables
Poach 500 g (18 oz)
lean, boneless loin, fillet or leg of veal in a well seasoned court bouillon
until very tender. Allow to cool in the stock. Cut half of the meat into neat,
even rather thick strips or cubes. Prepare a jelly with the clarified cooking
stock.
Shell 40 g (1 ½ oz) petits pois and cook in
salted boiling water until tender. Drain and refresh in cold water, drain well.
Thinly slice 250 g ( 9 oz0 baby carrots and cook in boiling salted water until
just tender. Drain, refresh and drain well Blanch and drain 4 sliced
courgettes.
Line the bottom of a terrine or mould with
plenty of dill. Add layers of the vegetables, alternating them with the meat
until the terrine or mould is almost full. Season each layer with pepper and
sprinkle with a few dill leaves. Press to settle the contents. Pour in the
cooled, but not set, jelly. Allow to set in the refrigerator for a few hours,
unmould and serve chilled.
Terrine of vegetables
Fontanieu
Cook separately, in very
lightly salted wter, 7 fluted carrots, 300 g ( 11 oz) French (green0 beans, and
150 g ( 5 oz ¾ cup0 petits pois. Cut the following vegetables into sticks and
cook separately, 500 g ( 18 oz) turips, 500 g ( 18 zo) courgettes (zucchini)
and 1 small root of celeriac. Peel, halve and seed 3 tomatoes. Cool the
vegetables and dry them thoroughly.
Bring 1 litre ( 1 ¾ pints, 4 ½ cups) double
(heavy) cream just to the boil, then blend in 500 g ( 18 oz. 6 cups) shredded
button mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Remove the mushrooms after 5
minutes and chop them. Do not boil down the cream, but blend in while it is
still hot 25 (1 oz. 4 envelopes)
powdered gelatins, 5 tablespoons dry vermouth and the chopped mushrooms. Keep
the mixture warm ready for assembling the terrine.
TERRINEE A cold dessert that is a speciality of
Normandy. It was formerly an indispensable item of food at village fetes and on
special occasions and still remains a traditional family dish. It consists of
rice cooked in milk in a glazed earthenware terrine, with sugar and a little
salt, traditionally flavoured with cinnamon and sometimes with nutmeg. The
cooking process lasts at least 5 hours
and the finished dish has a thick tasty golden crust. It is particularly
nourshing especially as it was often eaten with a slice, of fatture Terrine is
also commonly called tourt goule, terrgoule, torgoule or hourre guelde.
TETE-DE-MOINE A Swiss cow’s milk cheese (40% fat content)
from the canton of Berne. Pressed and
uncooked it is a firm yet pliable cheese with a washed brownish yellow rather
sticky rind. It has a spicy flavour and a pronounced aroma. The cheese is
creamy yellow and becomes reddish as it matures. It is sold unwrapped in
cylinders that are as high as they are wide (9-12 cm, 3 ½ -4 ¾ in) The best
Tete de-Moine comes from Bellelay, where, long ago, it was customary for the
prior of the abbey to receive one cheese par tete-de-moine (per monk) each year
as a fee. Nowadays, it is produced on a small scale as a cottage industry, and
is in season between September and March.
This cheese is served at the end of the
meal. Traditionally, the upper layer is sliced off and kept as a cover and the
inside is sliced off in small frilly curls with an implement known as a
girotte. It is also used for sandwiches and canapes.
TETE DE NEGRE A ball-shaped confection, consisting of two
meringues sandwiched together with chocolate flavoured butter cream. The ball
is then coated with more cream and covered with grated coconut for coconut on one
half and cocoa powder on the other.
The name is also given to a dome shaped rice
cake entirely coated with chocolate sauce and surrounded with a ring of whipped
cream, and to a small party made of very light sweet pastry arranged on a water
and coated with chocolate.
TETE MARBREE A pig’s
head pickled in brine, cooked, cut into dice, rolled into a rectangular shape
and covered with jelly.
TETILLA Looking like a child’s spinning top, this
conical cow’s milk cheese (45% fat content) comes from Galicia in northern
Spain. It has a thin, yellow rind and a plate yellow paste with some small holes. The elastic paste has
a milky flavour with a lemon tang. It is served with Seranto ham and fino
sherry.
TFINA A slowly cooked ragout of Arab cuisine. Made
with brisket of beef, calf’s foot, chick peas or white haricot (navy) beans,
peeled potatoes and whole eggs in their
shells, arranged in layers with olive
oil, garlic, paprika and honey. Meatballs and spices may also be
added.Tfina must simmer for several hours. Traditionally, the meat is served in
one dish and the vegetables and eggs in another. In wheat tfina, the potatoes
are replaced by wheat or pearl barley and the eggs are replaced by wheat or
pearl bardey and the eggs are omitted this is the typical Sabbath dish of
Algerian Jewish cookery. Ttinas are also made with spinach or vermicelli.
TERMIDOR The name of a lobster dish created in January
1894 at Maire’s a famous restaurant in the Boulevard Saint Denis in Paris, on
the evening of the premier of Thermidor, a play by Victorian Sardon according
to the Dictionaire de I Academic des Gastrotomes).
The name thermidor is also given to a dish
consisting of sole poached in white wine and fish fumet, with shallots and
parsley, and covered with a sauce made from the reduced cooking liquid
thickened with butter and seasoned with mustard.
Lobster thermidor
Split a live lobster in
two lengthways, Crack the shell of the claws and remove the gills from the
carcass. Season both halves of the lobster with salt, sprinkle with oil and
roast in a preheated oven at 220 oC (425 oF, gas 7) for
15-20 minutes. Remove and dice the flesh from the tail and claws.
Prepare a stock using equal proportions of
meat juices, fish fumet and white wine, flavoured with chervil, tarragon and
chopped shallots. Boil it down to a concentrated consistency, then add a little
very thick bechamel sauce and some English mustard. Boil the sauce for a few
moments, then whisk in some butter (one third of the volume of the sauce).Pour
a little of this sauce into the two halves of the shell. Fill the shells with
the flesh of the lobster, cover with the remainder of the sauce, sprinkle with
a little grated Parmesan cheese and
melted butter, and brown rapidly in a preheated oven at 240 oC(475
oF, gas 9)
More simply the lobster can be split into
two and grilled (broiled).The two halves of the shell are then emptied out,
lined with a little cream sauce seasoned with mustard, and the sliced lobster
flesh is put back covered with the same sauce and glazed in the oven. Arrange
the lobster on a long dish and serve piping hot.
TERMOMETER An instrument used to measure temperature.
The graduation is in degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit on a scale varying according
to the use intended monitoring the temperature of a freezer cooking sugar
syrup, deep frying and so on. Most thermometers used I n the kitchen consist of
a glass tube containing a liquid which
expands as the temperature increase. For roast
meat, there are bimetallic thermometers consisting of metals with different
expansion coefficients. The meat thermometer has a pointed end and is graduated
from 30 oC (86 oC) to 120 oC (248 oF)
and has markings, often in colours, for well done, medium and rare meat.
It is implanted in the centre of a join
of meat to measure the internal temperature. The frozen meat thermometer is
graduated from 30% to 30 oF (-22to 86 oF).
THICKEN To give liquid or liquid mixture more body,
making it slightly less runny and not as fine or thin in texture. The
techniques and ingredient used to
thicken foods vary considerably according to the type of food and recipe.
Starches are the most common ingredients for thickening cooked dishes, protein
foods, such as eggs, are also widely used. Starches thicken mixtures by
absorbing moisture and swelling, eggs thicken by setting. Uncooked mixtures can
also be thickened often by different methods, such as the formation of an
emulsion.
THICKENING. There are several different methods,
depending on the thickening agent used. Thickening may be carried out at the
beginning of cooking or at the end.
RECIPES
Thickening with
arrowroot
Mix 1 teaspoon
arrowroot with 2-3 tablespoons cold stock. Pour this mixture into 500 ml (17 ft
oz. 2 cups) boiling stock or juice and whisk until it thickens. Strain.
Thickening with blood
Add 1 tablespoon
vinegar to a small bowl of liquid blood (rabbit, hare, pork or duck) to prevent
it curdling. To thicken the sauce, remove it from the heat and add this
mixture, whisking continuously. Do not let it boil again. Sometimes the pureed
liver of the animal can be added as well.
Thickening with butter
Heat the strained sauce
or stock. Cut the butter into small pieces and add it all at once to the hot
liquid. Whisk well, 1 tablespoon liquid can absorb up to 50 g ( 2 oz, ¼ cup) butter.
Thickening with cream
Mix the cream with a
little of the sauce, stock or soup to be thickened and then pour it back into
the preparation. Whisk until it begins to boil, then lower the heat and let it
reduce until it has reached the desired consistency.
Thickening with liver
Clean the liver of the
appropriate animal and puree it finely.
Add one quarter of its weight of double (heavy) cream and mix well. Remove the
boiling liquid from the heat and whisk in the cream and liver mixture at once.
THIGH The upper fleshy part of the leg of
animals.A thigh of beef provides choice pieces of meat for roasting, such as
topside (beef round) rump, silverside (bottom round) and also steak.
A thigh of veal provides the fillet (round)
and the rump, which may be roasted whole or cut into paupiettes of
escalopes.
In poultry, the thigh ends in the drumstick.
Both thigh and drumstick are used for ragouts and fricasses. The thigh may be
boned and stuffed. In France, a thigh of turkey, together with the drumstick,
is sold under the name of gigolette of turkey. The thigh of a frog’s leg is the
only edible part of the animal.
THIN To add a liquid
(such as broth, stock, milk, consomme or water) to a sauce, puree or stuffing
to render it less thick. For example, mayonnaise is thinned by adding a mixture
of boiling water and vinegar.
THOUARSAIS WINES White,
red and rose wines of the Loire valley. The whites are made from the Chenin
Blanc, the reds and roses from the Cabernet Franc.
THREAD-FIN A sea fish
related to the mullet, sometimes called grand pourceau in France. About 50 cm
(20 in) long, it inhabits coastal regions of West Africa and can be found in
the estuaries and rivers. Caught in large numbers, it has tasty flesh and is an
important local food, particularly in Senegal, where it is used in the bou
diene.
THRUSH A small bird belonging to the same family as
the blackbird. There are a dozen species in France, which for centuries have
been hunted in autum and winter of their delicate flesh, the flavour of which
depends on their diet (grapes, juniper berries or peas) although this practice
is at last dying out throughout Europe. The song thrust makes excellent eating.
The larger mistle thrust feeds on mistletoe berries, which make its flesh taste
rather bitter.The smaller redwing is also highly prized, the fieldfare,
imported from northern Europe, has a rather inspid flavour but finner flesh.
All thrushes are prepared in the same way
as quails and there are in addition
certain regional specialities, particularly pies and terrines.They are often
cooked with juniper berries. Once common in Britain and the United States,
thurshes have become rarer in recent years.For this reason they are now
protected birds in Britain and may not be killed.
THYME A perenial plant with small grey green
aromatic leaves and small purplish flowers, much used as a culinary herb and
also to prepare infusions. Thyme contains an essential oil, thymol, which as a
very aromatic odour and antiseptic properties. Thyme is one of the basic herbs
used in cooking. Alone or in a bouquet garni, fresh or dried, it is used a
stuffings, casseroles, stews soups and baked fish. Fresh thume is particularly
good for flavoruing scrambled eggs, salads, tomato dishes and lentils. It is
also used in the preparation of certain home made liqueurs.
With thyme has clusters of rose pink flowers
and a less ronounced flavour than garden thyme. It is used mostly with chicken
or white meats, and in Provencal cookery it is traditionally used to flavour
trout, mutton and rabbit. It is also used in the production of a liqueur.
TILAPIA A name for a fresh water fish, including
serveral species. Known as a food source since biblical times, with references
to them in the context of the parting of the Red Sea, tilapia is usually a grey
fish, with firm, while flesh of a good flavour.The species native to Africa is
farmed in the Untied States.
TILSIT A Swiss cow’s milk cheese (45% fat content)
from the cantons of Saint Gall and Thurgovie. It is pressed, uncooked pliable
and golden yellow, with small regular holes and a polished yellow brown rind.
It has a very fruity flavour and a strong colour and takes the form of a small
round slab about 35.5 cm (14 in0 in diameter and 7-8 cm (2 ¼ -3 ¼ in) high.
Originally from Holland, the cheese was
imported several centuries ago into Tilsit, in the former east Prussia. It was
not until the end of the 19th century that it was introduced into
Switzerland. It is also made in northern Germany and central Europe, but has a
stronger tastes and is sometimes flavoured with aniseed. Used for canapes and
toasted croutes, it is also served at the end of a meal and may replace
Emmental in gratin dishes and souffles, which it flavours more strongly. When
it has matured for more than four months, it is used like Parmesan cheese.
TIMBALE This word is used in various senses.
Originally a timbale was a small metal drinking goblet, such timbals are now
usually made of silver or silver plate and are purely decorative, being given
to babies at birth or as christening presents.
The word also refers to a serving dish
similar to a vegetable dish, made of silver-plated metal, stainless steel or
heartproof porcelain, in which vegetables, scrambled eggs or ragouts are
served.
Today, however, the word is applied chiefly
to a plain, round, high sided mould and the preparation cooked in it a pie
crust baked blind and then filled with meat of various kinds, forcemeat or
pasta, blended with sauce. The crust is often garnished with patterns cut out
with a pastry (cookie) cutter. The filling may be breast of chicken, calves or
lambs sweetbreads, fish or seafood (fillets of sole, crayfish or scampi0
truffles, quenelles, or any of the fillings for vols au vent or bounchees.
Sometimes layers of meat or forcemeat are alternated with layers of pasta.
The name timbale is also given to small
preparations moulded into darioles, consisting of various salpicons, vegetables
and risotto, served as an entrée or a garnish.
Finally, a timbale can also be a dessert, a
pastry case (shell) baked blind, then filled with various fruits, creams or ice
cream.
RECIPES
Large timbale case
Butter a large timbale
or charlotte mould. Garnish the inside with little shapes of very firm noodle
paste 9slightly moistening them so that they will adhere to the pastry used to
line the mould).
Prepare 400 g (14 oz) lining pastry (see
short pastry) and roll it out into a circle 20 cm (8 in) in diameter and 5 mm
(1/4 in) thick. Sprinkle lightly with flour and fold in half, then bring the
ends into the centre until they meet. Roll out again to smooth away the folds.
Place this round of pastry in the mould and press it firmly against the base
and sides without disturbing the noodle-paste decorations. Cut off any excess
pastry.
Line the pastry case (shell) with buttered
paper (buttered side inwards) then fill
it up with dried beans. Place a circle of paper on top of the dried beans (which should be heaped into a dome) and
then, on top of this, a round sheet of pastry 1 cm ( ½ in) thick. Join the
edges of the pastry together by pressing them between the fingers, then make
the rim of the pie by pinching this border with pastry pincers.
Moisten the lid with water and garnish with
little shapes (leaves, rosettes, fluted rings) cut from a thin sheet of pastry.
Make a chimney in the centre of the lid. Brush with egg and bake in a preheated
oven at 190 oC (375 oF, gas 5) for 35-40 minutes.
Take the timbales out of the oven, cut round
the lid with a sharp pointed knife, then remove it. Take out the paper and
dried beans and brush the inside of the pastry case with egg. Put the timbale
back in the oven with the door open to dry for a few minutes, then remove it,
turn it out of the mould on to a wire rack and keep it hot together with the
lid. Fill as desired and replace the lid. Serve immediately.
Small timbales as an
entrée
Butter some dariole
moulds and sprinkle with truffle, pickled tongue or lean ham (chopped or cut
into decorative shapes) Line evenly with a layer 5 mm ( ¼ in) thick of fine
poultry or fish forcemeat, rice au gras (cooked in a meat stock) or vegetable
brunoise. Fill the middle with a cooled salpicon or a barquette filling.Cover
with layer of the forcemeat used to line the moulds and cook in the oven, in a
bain marie, for 15-18 minutes. Leave for a few moments, then turn the timbales
out of the moulds on to a dish or on to rounds of fried bread or artichoke
hearts. Serve with a sauce in keeping with the main ingredient.
Small timbales a la
fermiere
Butter some dariole
moulds and garnish with vegetable brunoise braised in butter. Line the moulds
with a thin layer of quenelle forcemeat. Fill with a macedoine of vegetables
bound with thick bechamel sauce. Cook in the same way as timbales a
epicurienne. Turn out of the moulds and serve with a herb flavoured cream
sauce.
Timbales clysee
Prepare 8 pastry cups
from a short biscuit type (cookie-type) pastry made by thoroughly blending 100
g (4 oz, 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, 100 g ( 4 oz. ½ cup) sugar, 1 egg
and 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) rather soft butter. Flavour with vanilla. Divide the
dough into 8, then roll into very thin rounds and arrange on a buttered and
floured baking sheet. Bake in a preheated oven at 200 oC (400 oF,
gas 6 ) for 6-8 minutes.
While the pastry rounds are still hot, mould
each of them into a cup shape. Place slice of sponge cake soaked in a kirsch
flavoured syrup at the bottom of each
pastry cup. Add a spoonful of vanilla ice cream and cover with fresh fruit,
such as strawberries or raspberries. Coat this with a spoonful of
kirsch-flavoured redcurrant jelly, then pipe rosettes of chantily cream round
the inside edge of the cup.
Cover each of the filled cups with a cage of
spun sugar, cook 200 g ( 7 oz, scant 1 cup) sugar and 40 g ( 1 ½ oz ¼ cup)
glucose to the hard crack stage (see sugar) Thread this sugar in a delicate
lattice over the bowl of a ladle. Slide the sugar cage off the ladle when set.
TIRAMISU Italian
dessert invented during the 1970’s based on plain cake or a yeasted sweet bread
soaked in spirits or liqueur and coffee, topped with a mascarpone mixture,
sometimes containing beaten egg yolks lightened with whisked egg whites.
TISANE An infusion of herbs and dried plants that is
drunk hot, on its own or slightly sweetened. The word derives from the Greek
ptisane and originally designated a decoration of this cereal.
Today, most tisanes are made from medicinal
plants. Digestive infusions, which are said by some to be beneficial at the end
of a a meal, can include the following anissed, a stimulant and sedative,
camomile effective against neuralgia, migranes and fever pains, corn poppy, a
sedative and supposed to be effective
agaisnt ashma, ground ivy, antitussive
marjoram, for spasms and insomnia, lemon balm, for giddiness,
palpitations, migraines and sleep disorders, mint, a tonic and stimulant,
meadow sweet, a sudorific and diuretic, effective against influenza and
rheumatism, rosemary, beneficial to the liver, sage, a tonic stomatic and
digestive, wild thyme, an antiseptic, good for the respiratory tract and the
stomach, lime blossom, an antispasmodic and sudorific, verberna, digestive, and
violet, an antitufisve expectorant, sudorific and diuretic. Tisanes can combine
two plants blended together for example lime blossom and mint, or line blossom and
star anise.
TIVOLI The name given in the 18th and 19th
centuries, to several Parisian establishments
providing illuminations, fireworks and other attractions, together with
refreshments and evoking the famous Villa d’ Este with its water and evoking
the famous Villa d’Este with its water gardens, built in Tivoli, not far from
Rome, in the 16th century. In classic cookery, the name Tivoli has
been given to a garnish for small cuts of meat, consisting of bunches of
asparagus tips and grilled (broiled) mushroom caps, filled with a salpicon of
cockcombs and kidneys blended with supreme sauce.
TOAD-IN-THE HOLE A traditional British dish. It originally consisted of pieces of cooked meat
mixed with smoked bacon, covered with batter and baked in the oven. In 1861,
Mrs. Beeton gave an excellent recipe for steak and kidney pieces cooked in
batter, but specified that any leftover meat could be used instead. This was
indicative of the status of the dish as a simple, family recipe for an
economical meal. Nowadays, it is made with fresh sausages, lightly baked in a
shallow dish, covered with pancake batter and then cooked in a hot oven. The
resulting crisp., well risen batter and golden sausages are served hot Good
onion gravy is often served with toad in the hole.
TOAST A slice of bread grilled (broiled ) on both
sides in a toaster or under the grill (broiler) and served hot. Pieces of toast
can be served in a toast rack, which will keep them crisp, they can also be
served in a basket, loosely wrapped in a napkin to keep them warm.
Buttered toast is traditionally eaten for
breakfast or tea, often spread with marmalade, honey or jam. It is also an
accompaniment to caviar, foie gras, smoked fish and pates, and is used as a
base for various other savoury preparations Cheese, flavoured butters, poached,
fried or scrambled egg, grilled kidneys, mushrooms, asparagus tips with
bechamel sauce, and grilled bacon. Slices of toast spread with forcemeat are
served with roast game birds, especially woodock and snipe.
A toast is also a proposal to drink someone’s
health.This sense of the word derives from the old habit of placing a slice of
toast in a glass of hot spiced wine, the glass of wine was passed round among
the guests and the slice of toast was offered to the guest of honour.
RECIPE
Garlic toast
Cut some slices 5 mm ( ¼ in) thick from a loaf of
brown or white bread and grill (broil) them lightly. Spread them with garlic
puree and sprinkle with a thin layer of breadcrumbs and a little olive oil.
Brown quickly in a hot oven and serve
very hot with a salad of endive (chicory) cherry tomatoes or mesclun (mixed
green salad).
TOFFEE A Canadian sweet invented in the 16th
century by Marguerite Bourgeoys, who had come from Troyes in France to open the
first school in french Canada. To attract the little savages, she made a syrup
from molasses which she left to cool down with the first snow of winter. This
happened on 25 November, and toffee is still a traditional delicacy on St.
Catherine’s day. In Britain, toffee is homemade or produced on a small scale in
many establishments. The basic sugar and butter syrup is flavoured with nuts,
chocolate, mint, liuorice or treacle or left plain. The American taffy is a
little different, and usually pulled.
TOFU Also known as bean curd.A basic foodstuff of
Far Eastrn cookery, especially Japanese, prepared from soya (soy) beans, which
are soaked, reduced to a puree, then boiled, sieved and set in blocks.In recent
years, Westerners have found tofu to be a good alternative to dairy produce in
a vegetarian diet, as well as an excellent source of protein for vegans. With
an appearance and colour reminiscent of fresh cheese, tofu can be used as meat
or fish substitute in a variety of modern dishes.
Originally from China, where it is said to have been prepared
as early as the 2nd Century BC Mongolian doufu was introduced into
Japan during the 8th century by Buddhist priests. It traditionally
constituted the basis of vegetarian dishes. Western travellers referred to tofu
as early as the 17th century, but it is only since the 20th
century that its method of manufacture and its uses have become familiar in the
west.
Relatively neutral in taste and very rich in
vegetable proteins, tofu is used in a wide variety of Japanese recipes,
combined with sweet and sour sauces in vegetable and seaweed salads, diced with
noodle dishes, crumbled and cooked like scrambled eggs, with mushrooms and
aromatics. It is used in sukiyaki, in fish and shellfish dishes and in soups,
garnished with spring onions( scallions) or onions, it is shaped into small
patties or fried in balls, it is coated with miso and grilled on skewers. It
can also be cut into cubes, fried and eaten with grated ginger and soy sauce.
In summer, it is served chilled, in a salad with spring onions, dried bonito,
gated daikon and sesame seeds. In winter, it is scalded and accompanied by
konbu.
Chinese doufu is firmer than Japanese tofu.
It is usually used in steamed dishes, soups and broths. Cut into dice or
strips, it also accompanies fish. Doufu can also be pressed, plain or flavoured
in varous ways with curcuma, green tea, or r ed (bell) pepper and fried with
vegetables or added to marinated dishes.Fermented doufu, which has quite a
strong flavour is often seasoned with pepper and used to garnish gluant and
potes.
In Vietnam, the Philippines, Indonesia and
Korea, tofu is prepared with various condiments dried shrimps, mint and rice
spirit.
TOKANY A Hungarian beef
stew, in which paprika is not the principal seasoning (unlike goulash or paprikache)
The meat is cut into thin strips, which are lightly cooked with onions in lard.
The basting liquid is white wine and the seasoning is based in particular on
pepper and marjoram. Sometimes, halfway through cooking, some pieces of fried
smoked larding bacon are added, the stew is finished off with soured (sour)
cream.
TOKAY Also known as Tokaji, A world famous sweet
white wine, produced in the Tokaji Hegyalja region in northern Hungary. The
area extend into Slovakia, but the
predominant production is in Hungary. The main grape varieties are Furmint,
blended with Harslevelu and sometimes Muscart Blanc a Petits Grains. The local
climate encourages the development of noble rot in some years but the grapes
naturally high sugar levels at picking qualify them as Aszu. There are
different styles of wine made those without Aszu may be made into a base wine
for Tokaji Aszu or a varietal, for example Tokaji Furmint.Where a mix of Aszu
and non Aszu grapes have been harvested together the resulting wine is labelled
Szumoroduni Cas it comes).The famous and historic wines are produced from Aszu
grapes.They are stored until the base wine has fermented, then added as a paste
in controlled amounts measured in hods called puttonyos. Each hod contains
20-25 kg (44-55 lb) of paste, the higher number of puttonyos, the sweeter the
wine, Tokaji Aszu may be sold as 3.4.5 or 6 puttonys.
Tokaji Esszencia is a rarity and made only
from the free-run juice seeping from the store Aszu berries.
The production of Tokay is complex and
lengthy. Any visitor to the strange cellars underground in the in the region
will be astounded by the thick blanket of mould that covers the walls and which
must obviously have marked effect on the wines that mature many years in the
small casks known as gonel. The bottles for the sweet wines are 50 cl, slightly
dumpy in shape with elongated necks. Although the dry wines can be enjoyed on
many occasions, the sweet ones are possibly best served at the end of a meal,
lightly chilled.
TOMATE An aperitif made
in Corsica with the local and exellent pastis (aniseed flavoured) and
grenadine, which results in a drink looking exactly like tomato juice.
TOMATO An annual plant cultivated for its red
fruits, which are widely used, cooked or raw, as vegetables, in salads, or to
make a sauce or juice. Originally from Peru (the name comes from the Aztec
tomath) the tomato was imported into Spain in the16th century. Until the 18th
century, it was thought to be poisonous and remained an ornamental plant
(called Peruvian apple or acacia apple) In the south of France it was nicknamed
love apple or golden apple a name also used in Italy. When its properties as a
vegetable cum fruit were discovered, the tomato became established in Spain
then in the Spanish kingdom of Naples, then in the north of Italy, the south of
France, and Corsica. It was not until 1790 that it reached the Paris area and
the north of France. In an edition of Encyclopedia Britannica, published in an
1797, it was stated that the tomato was at that time in daily use in Britain,
but in fact it took until the 19th century for it to be really
established. Nowadays, it is grown and cultivated throughout the British Isles.
RECIPES
Cold tomato mouse
Lightly fry in butter
500 g (18 oz, 2 ½ cups) coarsely chopped tomato pulp (net weight after skinning
and seeding) When it is well dried out, add 100 ml (4 ft oz. 7 tablespoons)
veloute sauce in which 4 leaves of gelatine (softened in cold water and drained
) have been dissolved .Strain this mixture through coarse muslin (cheesecloth),
then put in a bowl and wish until smooth. When cool, add half its volume of
fresh whipped cream. Season with salt, pepper and a little cayenne pepper and
add a few drops of lemon juice. Mix well, then pour into a glass dish.
The mousse can also be used as a garnish for
cold dishes (particularly fish) in this case, pour into dariole moulds lined
with aspic jelly, set in the refrigerator, then turn out of the moulds.
Concentrated tomato
glaze
Immerse some ripe
tomatoes in boiling water for 30
seconds, then peel them. Pound in a mortar and cook over a brisk heat until
they are boiled down by half, then press through a fine strainer. Cook once
more very gently until the pulp thickens and becomes syrupy. (It can be made
even smoother by straining it twice in the course of cooking) This tomato glaze
keeps well in the refrigerator. It is used in the same way as tomato puree
(paste)
Fresh tomato pulp
Pound and press raw,
ripe, perfectly sound tomatoes through a sieve to remove the seeds and skin.
Put this pulp into a saucepan and boil for about 5 minutes. Strain through
muslin (cheesecloth) and collect the thick pulp remaining in the cloth this can
be used to flavour hot or cold sauces. The fine liquid can be used in stock.
Green tomato jam
Select some green
tomatoes and prepare them in the same way as for red tomato jam. But steep for
24 hours and use preserving sugar with added pectin. The cooking time is 4
minutes after the syrup has come to the boil.
Grilled tomatoes
Cut a circle around the
stalk of some round, firm, sound tomatoes. Remove the seeds with a teaspoon.
Lightly season the tomatoes with salt and pepper, brush with olive oil and
grill (broil) them rapidly so that they do not collapse.
Red tomato jam
Choose some very ripe firm
tomatoes that are free of blemishes. Remove the stalks and plunge them in
boiling water for 1 minute. Peel, cut into small pieces, then steep for 2 hours
with their weight of granulated sugar and the juice of 2 lemons per 1 kg (2 ¼
lb) tomatoes. Put the mixture in the pan and bring to the boil. Cook very
gently until the syrup reaches
To help the jam to set, either add 300 ml (
½ pint, 1 ¼ cups) apple juice per 1 kg (
2 ¼ lb) tomatoes or replace the granulated sugar with preserving sugar with
added pectin. The cooking time, after boiling, is then reduced to 4 minutes.
Sauteed tomatoes a la
provencale
Remove the stalks from 6 firm round tomatoes. Cut
them in two, remove the seeds, then season with salt and pepper. Heat 3
tablespoons olive oil in frying pan and
put in the tomato halves cut-side downwards. Brown them, then turn them over.
Sprinkle the browned sides with a mixture of chopped parsley and garlic (3
heaped tablespoons).When the other side is browned, arrange the tomatoes on a
hot serving dish. Add some breadcrumbs to the frying pan and brown lightly in
the oil, then pour the contents of the pan over the tomatoes.
Concentrated tomato
glaze
Immerse some ripe
tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds, then peel them. Pound in a mortar and
cook over a brisk heat until they are boiled down by half, then press through a
fine strainer. Cook once more very gently
until the pulp thicken and becomes syrupy. This tomato glaze keeps well
in the refrigerator. It is used in the same way as tomato puree.
Fresh tomato pulp
Pound and press raw,
ripe, perfectly sound tomatoes through a sieve to remove the seeds and skin.
Put this pulp into a saucepan and boil for about 5 minutes. Strain through
muslin (cheesecloth) and collect the thick pulp remaining in the cloth, this
can be used to flavour hot or cold sauces. The fine liquid can be used in
stock.
Grilled tomatoes
Cut a circle around the
stalk of some round, firm, sound
tomatoes. Remove the seeds with a teaspoon. Lightly season the tomatoes with
salt and pepper, brush with olive oil and grill (broil) them rapidly so that
they do not collapse.
Red tomato jam
Choose some very ripe
firm tomatoes that are free of blemishes. Remove the stalks and plunge them in
boiling water for 1 minute. Peel, cut into small pieces, then steep for 2 hours
with their weight of granulated sugar and the juice of 2 lemons per 1 kg (2 ¼
lb) tomatoes. Put the mixture in a pan and bring to the boil. Cook very gently
until the syrup reaches the jelling stage, this takes 1-1 ¼ hours. Seal and pot
in the usual way.
To help the jam to set, either add 300 ml ( ½
pint, 1 ¼ cups) apple juice per 1 kg ( 2 ¼ lb) tomatoes or replace the
granulated sugar with preserving sugar with added pectin.The cooking time,
after boiling, is then reduced to 4 minutes.
Sauteed tomatoes a la
provencale
Remove the stalks from
6 firm round tomatoes. Cut them in two, remove the seeds, then season with salt
and pepper. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a frying pan and put in the tomato
halves cut-side downward. Brown them then turn them over. Sprinkle the browned
sides with a mixture of chopped parsley and garlic (3 heaped tablespoons) When
the other side is browned, arrange the tomatoes on a hot serving dish. Add some
breadcrumbs to the frying pan and brown lightly in the oil, then pour the
contents of the pan over the tomatoes.
Alternatively, the breadcrumbs can also be
added to the chopped parsley and garlic mixture, the stuffed tomatoes are then
arranged in a gratin dish and the cooking finished in a hot oven.
Souffle tomatoes
Remove the seeds from
some firm, regular shaped tomatoes. Sprinkle with oil or clarified butter and cook for 5 minutes in a preheated oven at
240 oC (475 oF, gas 9) Allow to cool and fill with tomato
souffle mixture. Smooth the surface, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and
put back in the oven at 200 oC (400 oF, gas 6) for 15
minutes.
Stuffed tomatoes
Choose some ripe but
firm tomatoes, of medium size and regular shape. Cut a circle round the stalk
end and, with a teaspoon, remove the seeds and juice. Still using the spoon,
enlarge the hole slightly until it is large enough to receive the stuffing.
Lightly season the inside with salt and
turn the tomatoes upside down on a cloth to drain Arrange the tomatoes on an
oiled baking sheet and warm them for 5 minutes in a hot oven. Drain again, then
stuff them, heaping up the stuffing to form a dome. Complete according to the recipe.
Hot stuffed tomatoes are usually sprinkled
with breadcrumbs and oil or clarified butter before being cooked.
Stuffed tomatoes a la
bone femme(hot)
For 8 medium tomatoes,
mix together 250 g ( 9 oz., 1 cup) sausagemeat, 75 g ( 3 oz. 1/3 cup) onion
lightly fried in butter 2 tablespoons fresh breadcrumbs, 1 tablespoon chopped
parsley, 1 crushed garlic clove and salt and pepper. Stuff the tomatoes with this mixture. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs
and oil or clarified butter and cook in a preheated oven at 220 oC
(425 oF, gas 7) for 30-40 minutes.
The stuffing can be precooked very gently in
a frying pan for 15 minutes. The tomatoes are then stuffed and cooked au
gratin.If this method is sued, the tomatoes will not collapse.
Stuffed tomatoes a la
nicoise (hot)
Make a stuffing
consisting of equal proportions of rice cooked in meat stock and aubergine
(eggplant) diced very small and tossed in olive oil. Add chopped parsley,garlic
and breadcrumbs fried in olive oil. Stuff the tomatoes, put them in an oven proof dish, sprinkle them with
breadcrumbs and olive oil and cook in a preheated oven at 220 oC
(425 oF, gas 7) for 30-40 minutes.
Tomatoes stuffed with
tuna (cold)
Mix together equal
amounts of rice pilaf and flaked canned tuna. Add 1 tablespoon mayonnaise for
every 4 tablespoons rice fish mixture and mix in some chopped herbs and finely
diced lemon pulp. Stuff the tomatoes, garnish each with a black (ripe) olive
and chill until just before serving, serve
with sprigs of parsley.
Tomatoes with
mozzarella
Wash, peel and slice 4
tomatoes. Cut 200 g ( 7 oz) mozzarella into thin slices. Arrange the tomato
slices on 4 plates and cover with slices of cheese.Season with salt and pepepr.
Sprinkle with fresh, chopped basil. Add a dash of vinegar, then a little olive
oil. Serve at room temperature.
Tomato loaf
Boil down some tomato
pulp over a low heat until it becomes very thick. Blend in some beaten eggs 6
eggs per 500 g ( 18 oz. 2 cups) puree.
Season with salt, pepper and a pinch of mixed spice. Fill a round well butted
tin (pan) or dariole moulds with this mixture and cook in a bain marie in a
preheated oven at 180 oC (350 oF, gas 4) for 40 minutes.
Allow the loaf to stand for a few moments before unmoulding. Serve coated with
tomato sauce mixed with butter.
Tomato salad
Immerse some ripe, firm
sound tomatoes in boiling water for 30 seconds. Peel them, cut into slices and
place in a colander to drain off the
liquid. Arrange the slices in a salad
bowl.Add some finely chopped mild onion 100 g (4 oz, 1/3 cup0 onion per 1 kg (2
¼ lb) tomatoes and dress with a tarragon flavoured vinaigrette. Leave in a cool
place. Just before serving sprinkle with chervil, parsley, basil or chopped
tarragon.
Tomato sauce
Cut 100 g (4 oz. 6
slices) fresh streaky (slab) bacon into small dice. Blanch, drain and lightly
cook in 3-4 tablespoons oil. Add 100 g ( 4oz. ¾ cup) each of diced carrots and
diced onion. Cover and lightly fry for 25-30 minutes. Sprinkle in 50 g ( 2oz. ½
cup0 sifted plain (all-purpose) flour and lightly brown. Add 3 kg ( 6 ½ lb)
fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and pounded, 2 crushed garlic cloves, a bouquet garni and 150 g (5 oz) blanched lean ham. Add
2 litre (1 ¾ pints, 4 ½ cups) white stock. Season with salt and pepper, add 1 ½
tablespoons sugar and bring to the boil while stirring. Cover and leave to cook
very gently for 2 hours. Strain the sauce into a basin. Carefully pour some
tepid melted butter on the surface to prevent a skin forming.
Tomato sorbet
Peel 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) very
ripe tomatoes, press them and filter the juice. Measure the volume, 250 ml (8
ft oz. 1 cup) is needed. Make a cold syrup with 150 ml ( ¼ pint 2/3 cup) water
and 300 g ( 11 oz, 1 ½ cups) preserving sugar. Mix the syrup with the tomato
juice and add 2 tablespoons vodka, then pour into an ice-cream mould and freeze
for at leat 1 hour.Whisk 1 egg white with 50 g ( 2 oz. ½ cup) icing
(confectioner’s) sugar over a pan of water at about 60 oC(140 oF)
When the sorbet begins to set, whisk it, gently fold in the beaten egg white
and put back in the freezer until it sets (about 2 hours)
TOMBE Fish of the
Trigidae family also called pearl gurnard on the Atlantic coast and galinette
in the Midi.
With a maximum length of 75 cm (30 in) it is
distinguished from other gunnards by its large blue pectoral fins and its
smooth lateral line. Fished throughout the year from Norway to Senegal and in
the Medieterranean, it has a firm white flesh which is perfect cooked a la
normande, in the oven on a bed of potatoes and onions.
TOMBER A French term meaning to cook watery
vegetables, either whole (such as spinach) or cut up (as with chifonade of
sorrel finely sliced onions).over a low
hear with or without fat. Under the action of the heat, they cook in their own
juices without browning.
In the terminology of old French cookery,
tomber referred to a method of cooking meat in a saucepan, without any liquid
other than that produced by the meat itself. The reduced syrup meat juices were
used for the sauce. The expression tomber a glace still means to boil down a
cooking liquid until it is syrupy.
TOMME Also known as Tome. The generic name of two
large families of cheeses, one made from goat’s or ewe’s milk, especially in
south eastern France and the Dauphine and sometimes in Savoy the other from
cow’s milk, pressed and uncooked,
typical of Savoy and Switzerland. Tomme is also the name given to Cantal and
Laguiole at the first stage of their
preparation, when they are still fresh.
Goat’s or ewe’s milk
Tommes The soft goat’s milk cheeses are
usually made in small discs of various sizes. They include Tommes des Allues
from the Haute Tarentaise and the similar Tomme de Courcheved, Tomme de Belley
from Franche Comte, Tomme de Brach from Limousin, sometimes blue veined, Tommane de Camargue flavoured with thyme and
bay, Tomme de Comnovin and Tomme de
Corps from the Dauphine, Tomme de Crest
from Valence, and Tommes de Sospel from the Alpes Maritines.
Toma is the Italian name given to similar
soft, bloomy rind cheeses in Italy, but here
they are mainly made from pasteurized cow’s milk. Examples include Toma
della Valcuvia from Lombardy and Toma de
Carmagola from Piedmont.
Cow’s milk Tommes These
are usually made with skimmed milk and are well pressed, uncooked and have a
natural polished rind.Tomme de Boudane (from Savoy) and Tomme de Revard are variants of Tomme de
Savole (20-40% fat content) pliable and homogeneous, with a uniform yellow or
red rind, a pronounced smell of mould and a nutty flavour, they are best from
June to November and eaten at the end of the meal and in sandwiches.They are
sometimes flavoured with fennel. Tomme an marc has a strong smell of alcoholic
fermentation and a fairly piquant taste,, the cheeses are dried slightly, then
arranged in layers with marc brandy, in a cask sealed with clay, then left to
ferment (it should not be confused with Tomme au raisin, a kind of processed
cheese, coated with roasted grape seeds0 Tomme de Romans (from the Dauphine)
shaped like a flat disk, is thoroughly pliable, with a milkd to nuty flavour
and a lactic smell.Tomme vaudoise (for de Payeme) is a soft, almost findless
Swiss cheese, white and springy, with a creamy taste, it is sometimes flavoured
with cumin.Finally there is tomme de sixt, which is eaten very dry, and Tomme
de Vivarais, which Charles Forot recommends kneading with rapesed (canola) oil,
a little vinegar, salt and pepper and serving with baked packet potatoes.
TOM-POUCE A small pastry consisting of two squares of
shortcrust pastry (basic pie dough) sandwiched together with a cream made of
butter, crushed nuts, sugar and coffee essence (extract) it is iced (frosted)
with coffee fondant and decorated with a grilled (broiled) hazelnut.
TONGS A utensil comprising two arms made of metal,
wood or plastic. They are either pivoted or connected by a spring and are used
for grasping a variety of foods, including asparagus, gherkins, snails, salads,
ice cream, sugar and ice (sugar and ice
tongs sometimes have claws to help grasp the cubes) Lobster tongs are
used for crushing the claws to extract the flesh. Working on the same
principle, the pastry crimper is used for pinching the edges of pastries
TONGUE Fleshy organs from the heads of slaughtered
livestock, which are classed as offal (variety meat) for culinary purposes. Ox
(beef) tongue, weighing up to 2 kg ( 4 ½ lb) calf’s tongue (considered to be
superior in quality and quicker to cook) pig;s tongue and lamb’s tongue are all
used and can be prepared in many different ways in ragouts, steved, boiled and
served with highly seasoned sauces (charcutiere, pigquente, Italian) in
fritters, au gratin, and often cold, with a vinaigrette. In earlier days,
tongue was cooked with verjuice or chestnuts, made into small sausages, or grilled on skewers.
Picked ox tongue (a I ecariate) is preserved in brine and can be used in man
ways sometimes as a garnish for other meats. It can also be smoked.
Pink flamingo tongues were considered to be a
delicacy in ancient Rome, and blackbird tongues were popular in the Middle
Ages.Deep-fried salt cod tongues served with tartare sauce are a Canadian
speciality.
RECIPES
Preparation of tongue
Soak the tongue in
plenty of cold water for 12 hours, renewing the water 2 or 3 times. Then trim
it, removing the fat part, parts and dip it in boiling water. Skin it by making
an incision in the skin at the base and on the top and pull the skin towards
the tip. Wash and wipe the skinned tongue, then sprinkle it with fine salt and
leave it in a cool place for 24 hours. Wash it again, then wipe it.
Calf’s Tongue
Boiled calf’s tongue
Calf’s tongue prepared
in this way is always served with calf’s head. Prepare and skin the tongue.
Prepare a cooking stock separately, blend flour with cold water, using 1
tablespoon flour per 1 litre ( 1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3 cups) water, until smooth.
Strain the mixture and pour into a large saucepan. Season with 1 teaspoon salt
and add 1 tablespoon vinegar per 1 litre ( 1 ¾ pints, 4 ½ cups) water. Bring to
the boil, then add 1 large onion stuck with 2 cloves and a bouquet garni. Put
in this stock the tongue and the calf’s head weighing about 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) well
tied up with string. Add about 200 g ( 7 oz. 1 cup) chopped veal fat, bring
back to the boil and cook for 2 ½ hours.
The tongue may be served with a simple
vinaigrette or with various other
sauces, such as caper, fines herbes, hongroise, piquante, ravigote or Robert.
Braised calf’s tongue
Prepare the tongue and
brown it in 50 g ( 2 oz. ¼ cup) butter drain.Brown 1 kg ( 2 ¼ lb) crushed veal
knuckle bones in the oven Blanch 1 boned
calf’s foot. Peel and dice 2 large onions and 3 carrots, cook them in butter in
a pan until golden, then take t hem out. Line this pan with a large piece of
prok rind with the fat removed, add the diced onion and carrot, the veal bones,
the boned calf’s foot, the tongue, a bouquet garni and a crushed garlic clove.
Blend 2 tablespoons tomato puree (paste)
with 300 ml ( ½ pint, 1 ¼ cups) white wine and the same quantity of stock ( the
wine may be replaced by Madiera, cider or beer) pour over the tongue. Add 2
tablespoons brandy, season with salt and pepper, cover and bring to the boil.
Place the pan in a preheated oven at 200oC (400oF, gas 6)
and leave for about 2 ½ hours to finish cooking.
Drain the tongue and cut it into slices. Cut
the flesh of the calf’s foot into dice. Take out the bouquet garni, the
remainder of the rind and the bones. Puree the stock and vegetables in a
blender and coat the tongue with the mixture.
Calf’s tongue a l
itallienne
Braise the tongue as in
the previous recipe, adding some crushed tomatoes to the pan at the same time
as the bouquet garni. Blanch 200 g ( 7 oz, 1 ½ cups) green olives in boiling
water, add them to the pureed braising stock and spoon them over the tongue.
Lambs’ or Sheep’s
Tongues
Devilled lambs or
sheep’s tongues
Braise the tongues and
leave to cool in their stock. Cut them in half and spread each half with
mustard seasoned with cayenne pepper. Baste with butter, Dip in breadcrumbs,
pour butter over them and grill (broil) slowly. Serve with devilled sauce.
Lambs’ or sheep’s
tongue brochettes
Prepare some lambs or
sheep’s tongues and braise them as for calf’s tongue, taking care that they remain
slightly firm. Allow them to cool completely then cut them lengthways into thin
tongue-shaped slices. Marinate them for 30 minutes with some mushroom caps in a
mixture of olive oil and lemon juice, with a crushed garlic clove. Cut some
smoked belly bacon into strips .Roll up the tongue slices and thread them on to
skewers, alternating with the strips of bacon and the mushroom caps. Soak once
again in the marinade and grill (broil) slowly.
The marinade may be omitted in this case,
lightly brown the mushrooms and the strips of bacon in butter before skewering
them, then baste the skewers with melted butter and coat with breadcrumbs.
Sprinkle again with a little melted
butter and grill (broil) gently. Serve with a tomato sauce.
Lamb’s or sheep’s
tongues au gratin
Braise the tongues and
cut them in half lengthways. Put them in an ovenproof dish masked with Mornay
sauce. Garnish each half tongue with a cooked mushroom. Cover with Mornay
sauce, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and pour on melted butter, brown slowly.
Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
Lambs or sheep’s
tongues en crepinette
Braise the tongues and
leave to cool in their stock.Cut them in half enclose each half in fine pork
forcemeat with truffles, then wrap in a piece of pork caul. Baste the
crepinettes with melted butter. Dip in breadcrumbs and grill (broil) slowly.
Serve with Perigueux saur.
Ox Tongue
Ox tongue a la
bourgeoise
Prepare the tongue and
braise it as for a calf’s tongue. Prepare a borugeoise garnish with 500 g ( 18
oz) carrots cut to uniform size and half cooked, and 20 or so strips of larding
badcon (slightly salted belly bacon0 blanched and lightly fried in butter.
About 15 minutes before the end of cooking, drain the tongue and strain the
braising stock. Return the tongue to the braising pan, add the bourgeoise
garnish and pour the strained braising stock over everything. Finish cooking in
a preheated oven at 180-200 oC(350-400 oF, gas 4-6).
Ox tongue a l
alasacienne
Prepare the tongue and
poach it in stock as for calf's’tongue until it is half-cooked (about 1 ½ hours) Prepare some sauerkraut a l
alsacienne with its aromatic garnish and a piece of blanched larding (belly0
bacon. Line a braising pan with rinds of smoked bacon and pour the sauerkraut
into it, together with its garnish and the bacon. Place the tongue in the
middle cover the pan and poach for another hour, or until cooking is completed.
Prepare some boiled potatoes, poach some Strasbourg sausages for 10 minutes in
boiling water. Arrange the sauerkraut on a hot dish. Cut the tongue and the
bacon into slices, place them on the sauerkraut and surround them with the
potatoes and the sausages.
Valenciennes stuffed ox
tongue
Trim a smoked tongue
and cut it into thin slices. Prepare a mixture consisting of two thirds foie
gras and one third fine quality butter, work it with a glass of port, some
finely chopped fresh truffles, salt and pepper. Coat the slices of tongue with
this preparation and reshape the tongue, wrap it in muslin (cheesecloth) and
keep it in a cool place. To serve, unwrap the tongue, glaze it with clear aspic
and arrange it on a bed of aspic.
TONKINOIS An almond manque cake sliced into two and
filled with paraline butter cream. The sides are masked with this cream and
decorated with grilled (broiled) shredded (slivered) almonds, the top is iced
(frosted0 with orange fondant and sprinkled with grated coconut.
The name is also given to a square petit
four made of nougatine and filled with frangipane flavoured with preline. The
top is iced with chocolate and decorated with chopped pistachios.
TOPKNOT A marine flatfish 20-50 cm (8-20 in0 long,
which has two eyes side by side a large mouth and fins with long filaments its
dorsal side is greyish, marked with brown or pink, and it has a very clear
lateral line.The thick firm white flesh is learn and comes away easily from the
bones. Sometimes also known as megrim, the topknot can be used for many dishes,
particularly when filleted.
TOP RUMP Part of the leg of beef consisting of the
group of three muscles situated in the front, in the femotal region. The round
(round) plat and mouvant (moving) muscles provide very good roasts and tender
tasty steaks, which are fairly lean. The round is less homogeneous than the
other two cuts. The top rump also provides meat for spit roasting or minced
(ground) beef (for hamburgers or steak tartare)
TORREE Speciality of the canton of Neuchatel.
Switzerland, a region in which the sausage is king. It is cooked with other
charcuterie under the ashes. The meal which follows, called by the same name,
is eaten round the fire.
TORSK Fish of the
Gadidae family, which lives in the waters off the north west of Scotland,
northern Europe and the east coast of Canada, at depths of 150-450 m (492-1476
ft) Having the particular characteristic of a single dorsal fin, it is known as
loquette in the Boulogne and pouse morue
in St. malo. It is fished from April to July.
TORTEIL Also known as
tourteau A typically catalan pastry , the authentic name being torted This crown saped brioche is a speciality of
Villeranche de Conflent and Arlesur Tech., where it is flavoured with aniseed. In Limoux, where it is
traditionally eaten on Twelfth Night, it is decorated with crystallized (candied- citron raisins and pine nuts, then
flavoured with orange, lemon and rum.
TORTELLINIA Italian pasta made with small pieces of
thinly rolled dough, filled with a stuffing, folded and shaped into rings. They
exist in different sizes and shapes (rolled up narrow strips or small rounded
turnovers) and are called lortelli, tortelleti (mentioned in a 13th
century recipe book0 tortellani, tortellounti and torrigfornt. All these words
derive from torta with various diminutives and augmentatives.
The pasta used may be made simply with eggs
or coloured with tomato or spinach.The stuffing is usually made from chicken or
ham, chopped with lemon zest, nutmeg, egg yolks or Parmesan cheese Tortellini
is a speciality of the Bolognese Christmas dinner (filled with turkey, ham and
sausage forcemeat) Poached in a consomme or cooked in water, tortellini and
tortelloni are served with melted utter or in a sauce tomato or cream
(sometimes with mushrooms) and with
Parmesan cheese. This stuffed pasta is of ancient origin, legend has it that a
young apprentice pastrycook made them in the shape of a navel out of love of
his mistress.
TORTILLA A thin Pancake made of cornmeal, which form
an important part of the diet in Latin American countries and has gained
recognition in Britain and the United States. It was named by the Spanish
conquistadors, in Spanish cookery, a tortilla is a flat onelette, usually
filled with salt cod or potatoes, which is cut into quarters like a cake (the
word has the same origin as torta, a tart).
Cornmeal has been used since time immemorial
for preparing pancakes, which are traditionally grilled (broiled0 on
earthenware utensils. They are used as bread or as tart bases and are stuffed
for turnovers and sandwiches. The old Indian method of preparation consists of
kneading the cornmeal dough, or masa, on stone called metate then shaping it
into circles about 20 cm ( 8 in) in diameter and 3 mm (1/4 in) thick which is
quite a delicate operation. Nowadays, tortillerias provide ready made
tortillas, which can be bought cooked or uncooked. Grilled tortillas, lightly
browned, have a thin but tough crust on each side.They can also be puffed up
like souffle potatoes, then stuffed Tortillas are always’s eaten hot, either on
then own (as (bread0 or filled with various ingredients, usually with a piquant
sauce.
The range of condiments and stuffings used
include guacamode, avocado puree with red (bell) pepper, chopped raw onion, red
pepepr, green tomato coulis, grated quesso (cheese0 or thin strips of chicken
breast.The main dishes prepared with tortillas are tacos, a very popular type
of sandwich, echitalad, tortillas rolled around their filling (fried sausages
or pieces of roasts chicken), then coated with a sauce and cooked in the oven,
tostadas, small very crisp tortillas, covered with sauteed or fried red kidney
beans and sometimes embellished with chopped meat, served as a hot hors
d’oevure, chilaquiles, thin strips of fried tortilla covered with a highly
spiced sauce and cooked in the oven, and quesadillas, tortillas filled with
meat in sauce or vegetables with cheese, folded into turnovers, then fried in
lard.
The tortilla even forms part of the Mexican
breakfast, which basically consists of buenos rancheros fried eggs arranged on
fried tortillas and garnished with
tomatoes crushed with red pepper and slices of avocado. At lunch, the soup is
sometimes thickened with small pieces of tortilla, Sopa seca is a dish
consisting of pieces of tortilla generously coated with sauce and served piping
hot. Equally popular are sopas, tortillas filled with meat, beans and highly
spiced sauce. Among the specialities of Yucatan, mention should be made of the
papaizul tortillas stuffed with pieces of pork or hard boiled eggs, served with
a sauce made from ground pumpkin seeds, tomato puree (paste) and pumpkin seed
oil. In Venezuela, cornmeal pancakes are found in the form of arepas. These are
thicker than tortillas and are often raw in
the middle, even after cooking. Butter eggs, spices or fried maize
(corn) grains are sometimes added to the dough.
TORTILLON A dry petit
four, usually made of twisted puff pastry (like a sacristain) with
crystallized (candied) or dried fruits
or shredded (silvered0 almonds, alternatively it is made of choux pastry
moulded into a zigzag shape.
Tortillon is also another name for the
brassadeau
RECIPE
Tortillons
Fill a medium sized
piping (pastry) bag with choux paste. Holding the bag at 45 and making zigzag
pattern, pipe on to a baking sheet some sawtooth shapes 15 cm (6 in ) long.
Sprinkle each tortillon with 12 currants
steeped in rum. Dust very lightly with icing (confectioner’s) sugar and bake in
a preheated oven at 180 oC (350 oF, gas 4) for 25
minutes.
TORTONI A café,
restaurant and ice-cream parlour opened in Paris in 1798, at the corner of Rue Taitbout and
Boulevard des Italiens, by a Neapolitan called Velloni,. Shortly afterwards, it
was purchased by his ehad clerk, Tortoni, who gave the place its name. It
closed in 1893,.Every celebrity in Paris climbed the steps of the famous ice-
cream parlour which was also a highly regarded restaurant, well known for its
cold buffets. Its meats in aspic, papilotes of young hare and salmon escaloeps
attracted as many customers as the ice cream cakes, sorbets and granitas,
Italian specialtieis that Tortoni made fashionable in Paris. A Tableau de
Paris, dated 1834, quoted by R. Heron de Villeofosse in Histoire geographique
et gourmande de Paris, describes the activity of the establishment. In the
morning, its excellent cold lunches brought in the stockbrokers, bankers and
the fashionable set from the Chaussee d’ Anti. At four o’clock, the speculators from the Stock
Exchange met in front of its façade.. Finally in the evening, the regular
customers from the Boulevard came to savour the imperial tea and the flavour of
the ice pyramids in the shape of fruits and plants.
TORTUE, EN A method of preparing calf’s head. It is
cooked in white court-bouillon, simmered with the tongue and sweetbreads in a
white wine sauce with olives, mushrooms and gherkins added, then heaped on a
platter in a mound usually garnished with small quenelles of veal forcemeat and
fried croutons. This French dish, which dates back to the Middle Ages, is also
highly esteemed in Belgium.
Calf’s head en tortue was once a large and
spectacular entrée, the head was surrounded by small quenelles of veal
forcemeat, cock combs and kidneys, cooked mushrooms, stuffed poached olives,
slivers of truffle and escalopes of calf’s tongue. Small fried eggs, small
slices of calf’s brain cooked I n court bouillon, gherkins shaped like olives,
dressed crayfish and fried heart shaped croutons completed the garnish.
Nowadays, calf’s head en tortue is usually
prepared using pieces of head, simmered I n tortue sauce and arranged on fried
croutons, surrounded by a more modest garnish. When served whole, it is stuffed
and cooked in a braising stock seasoned with turtle herbs, a mixture of basil,
thyme bay leaf, sage, rosemary and marjoram, with coriander seeds and
peppercorns, inside a muslin (cheesecloth) bag
Tortue sauce, made with white wine, mirepoix,
a roux and stock and flavoured with tomato, traditionally accompanies calf’s
head en tortue, it was originally intended for turtle, hence its name, and is
also used for fish and offal.
.
RECIPES
Calf’s head en tortue
Prepare a white
court-bouillon and cook the calf’s head and, separately, the tongue and
sweetbreads. Cut all this offal (variety meat) into pieces and keep warm in
their stock.
Make some tortue sauce. Cook in butter,
without browning 2 50 g ( 9 oz 3 cups) diced mushrooms.Stone (pit) 150 g ( 5oz.
1 ¼ cups) green olives, blanch for 3-4 minutes in boiling water and dice them.
Also dice-7-8- gherkins .Strain the sauce and add the gherkins, olives and
mushrooms. Heat thoroughly and adjust the seasoning by adding a pinch of
cayenne.
Drain the pieces of offal and cover them with
the sauce. Garnish the dish with small quenelles of veal forcemeat and croutons
fried in butter.
Tortue sauce
Infuse a bouquet garni
and a few sprigs of basil in 500 ml (17 ft oz, 2 cups) dry white wine. Lightly
cook in butter 150 g (5 oz ) smoked ham, 3 onions and 3 carrots (both cut into dice) Sprinkle with
3 tablespoon flour and brown Add the strained in the evening, the regular
customers from the Boulevard came to savour the imperial tea and the flavour of
the ice pyramids in the shape of fruit is and plants.
TORTUE, EN A method of preparing calf’s head. It is
cooked in white court-bouillon, simmered with the tongue and sweetbreads in a
white wine sauce with olives, mushrooms and gherkins added, then heaped on a
platter in a mound usually garnished with small quenelles of veal forcemeat and
fried croutons. This French dish, which dates back to the Middle Ages, is also
highly esteemed in Belgium.
Calf’s head en tortue was once a large and
spectacular entrée the head was surrounded by small quenelles of veal
forcemeat, cockcombs and kidneys, cooked mushrooms, stuffed poached olives,
slivers of truffle and escalopes of calf’s tongue. Small fried eggs, small
slices of calf’s brain cooked in court-bouillon, gherkins shaped like olives,
dressed crayfish and fried heart shaped croutons completed the garnish.
Nowadays, calf’s bread en tortue is usually
prepared using pieces of head, simmered in tortue sauce and arranged o n fried
croutons, surrounded by a more modest garnish. When served whole, it is stuffed
and cooked in a braising stock seasoned with turtle herbs, a mixture of basil,
thyme bay leaf, sage, rosemary and marjoram, with coriander seeds and
peppercorns, inside a muslin (cheesecloth) bag.
Tortue sauce, made with white wine,
mirepoix, a roux and stock and flavoured with tomato, traditionally accompanies
calf’s head en tortue, it was originally intended for turtle, thence its name,
and is also used for fish and offal.
RECIPES
Calf’s head en tortue
Prepare a white court
bouillon and cook the calf’s head and, separately, the tongue and sweetbreads
Cut all this offal (variety meat) into pieces and keep warm in their stock.
Make some tortue sauce. Cook in butter,
without browning, 250 g ( 9 oz, 3 cups) diced mushrooms. Stone (pit) 150 g (5
oz. 1 ¼ cups) green olives, blanch for 3-4 minutes in boiling water and dice
them Also dice 7-8 gherkins. Strain the sauce and add the gherkins, olives and
mushrooms. Heat thoroughly and adjust
the seasoning by adding a pinch of cayene.
Drain the pieces of offal and cover them
with the sauce. Garnish the dish with small quenelles of veal forcemeat and
croutons fried in butter.
Tortue sauce
Infuse a bouquet garni
and a few sprigs of basil in 500 ml (17 ft oz, 2 cups) dry white wine. Lightly
cook in butter 150 g (5 oz) smoked ham, 3 onions and 3 carrots (both cut into
dice) Sprinkle with 3 tablespoons flour and brown. Add the strained white wine
and 300 ml ( ½ pint, 1 ¼ cups) beef stock. Add 2-3 tablespoons concentrated
tomato puree (paste),cover and cook very gently for at least 30 minutes.
TOSCANE, ALA A term used in France to describe various
dishes prepared with Parmesan cheese and ham, specialities of Ermita Romagna,
True Tuscan cookery, however, is characterized by grilled beefsteak, bean
dishes and Chianti. Macaroni a la toscane is bound with a puree of foie gras
and sprinkled with diced truffles sauteed in butter.
RECIPES
Allumettes a la toscane
Cut some puff pastry
into strips 7.5 cm (3 in) wide and 5 mm ( ¼ in0 thick. Mix equal amounts of
cooked ham cut into small dice and poultry forcemeat, season and add a little
chopped truffle. Completely coat the strips of puff pastry with this
mixture.Cover with a very little bechamel sauce, sprinkle with grated. Parmesan
cheese and cook in a preheated oven at 240oC (475oF, gas
9 for 12-15 mintues).
Souffle fritters a la
toscane
Mix a little grated
nutmeg, 50 g ( 2 oz, ½ cup) grated parmesan cheese, 50 g (2 oz, ¼ cup) cooked
ham cut into small dice and a little chopped truffle with 300 g (11 oz) choux
paste. Shape into balls. Fry the fritters in boiling oil and serve very hot as
an entrée.
TOULOUSAINE, ALA
Describing a garnish for poached or pot-roasted poultry or a filling for
croustades, tarts or vol-au-vent. It consists of a ragout of small quenelles of
poultry, lamb’s sweetbreads or cockcombs and kidneys, mushrooms and truffles,
bound with allemande sauce (or toulousaine sauce, which is a supreme sauce
thickened and enriched with egg yolks and cream) Nowadays, the expression is
more frequently applied to various dishes from south western France.
TOULOUSE-LAUTREC, HENRI
DE (French painter (born Albi, 1864, died Chateau de Malrome, 1901) This great
artist, noted for his drawings, paintings, lithographs and posters, was also an
excellent amateur cook, the creator of recipes in which originality vied with
soundness of taste (chick peas with spinach, perch with anchovies, plums in
rum) and also with humour (grilled grasshoppers, seasoned with salt and
pepper).Thanks to his friend Maurice Joyant, the traditional and regional
recipes that he cooked were collected in La Cuisine de Monsieur Momo, of which
100 copies were printed in 1930, the work was republished in 1966 under the
title L’Art de La cuisine, with illustrations of menus by Lautree.
TOUPIN An earthenware pan or small stewpot, used in
Savoy to prepare soups, fondues and ragouts. Its name has been given to a
pressed cow’s milk cheese (45% fat content), in the shape of a tall cylinder,
made in the Vallee d’ Abondance. It is firm and homogeneous, with a fruity
flavour, and has a thin, rather rough, rind.
TOUPINEL. A poached egg
dish, said to have been created in the restaurant Maire at the end of the 19th
century. It apparently owes its name to a vaudeville by A.Bisson.Feu Toupinel,
which was playing at that time on the boulevards. Eggs Toupinel are presented
in scoped out baked potatoes.The potato pul is mashed with butter and cream,
seasoned with salt and nutmeg, then put back into the potatoes, which are
coated with Mornay sauce.Finally, a poached egg is placed on top of each
potato, also covered with Mornay sauce, and the dish is glazed in the oven or
under the grill (broiler) Celery puree or shredded lean ham is sometimes added
to the mashed pulp.Eggs Toupinel are traditionally served with fried parsley.
TOURANGELLE, ALA Describing large pieces of roast lamb or
mutton served with their thickened
juices and a garnish of French (green) beans and flageolet beans bound
with butter.The expression is also applied to poached or soft-boiled
(soft-cooked) eggs arranged on tartlets filled with flageolet beans puree and
coated with cream sauce.
TOUR D’ARGENT The
oldest Parisian restaurant. It originated in 1582, an inn on the Qual de la Tournelle,
standing on the remains of a castle,
built by Charles V. of which a white stone tower still remained.A certain
Rourteau used to prepare hereon and wild duck pies, which Henri III himself ate
there. Later, Richelieu enjoyed goose with prunes at the inn, while his great
nephew, the Duke of Richelieu, had his
all beef menu prepared there. Madame de Sevigne praised its chocolate and
Madame de Pampadour its champagne. Under
Napoleon 1, Lecog, head of the imperial kitchens, took over the restaurant,
which had suffered during the Revolution. Roast duck and leg of lamb were at
that time the best known dishes. Paillard succeeded Lecog, and George Sand and
Musset were among the restaurant’s regular customers.
It was after 1890 that the Tour d’Argent acquired the prestige that
it retians to this day, with the renowened Frederic, first maitre d’hotel and
then manager, who invented the recipe for canard au sang and had the idea of
attributing a serial number to each bird served.The tradition has continued and
the canardiers in white aprons officiate on the small stage of the theatre du
canard, where two magnificient presses occupy the place of honour. The great
Frederic, who made the Tour d’ Argent the Bayreuth of cookery.
TOURER A French term meaning to give the necessary
turns to puff pastry dough to make it puff up during baking. This entails
successive operations of folding, rolling out, turning the dough through 90
then refolding, and so on. Professional pastrycooks do this on a tour de
patiesserie, which is a refrigerated marble or metal slab.
TOURIN Onion soup,
sometimes with garlic or tomato, prepared with lard or goose fat it is common
to the Perigod and Bordeaux areas. The food historian Jean-jacques Duben
writes. Tourin is onion soup made with good fat and a little garlic, bound with
egg yolk in a trickle of vinegar and poured over slices of state home made
bread. When there is no more bread left in the soup bowl, a good glass of
strong red wine of the year is poured in. The colour is certainly not
attractive, I admit, but we are on our own and this warm beverage, flowing and
generous, is an exceptional tonic.
Tourin which also spelled tourvain tourrin,
touril or touri was traditionally taken to newly weds on the morning after
their wedding and bore the name tourin des maries or tourin des noces (with
vermicelli added). In Quercy, some
variants are tourin a I aoucou (cooked with a preserved goose leg0. Tourin a la
poulette (onion and flour browned in goose fat before adding the liquid) and
tourin aux raves (shredded kohlrabi, browned in lard) In Perigord, a crushed
clove or garlic and a little tomato puree (paste) or fresh tomatoes are usually
added.
RECIPES
Perigord tourin
Lightly brown in goose
fat, in a frying pan, 150 g (5 oz, 1 cup) finely chopped onion. Sprinkle with 1
tablespoon flour and add 2 crushed garlic cloves and a few tablespoons of
boiling water. Stir to avoid lumps. Cook 2 large seeded tomatoes in 2 litres (3
½ pints, 9 cups) stock. Drain, crush and
return to the stock. Add the contents of the frying pan and boil for 45
minutes. Just before serving, blend in 2
egg yolks mixed with a few tablespoons of stock. Pour into a soup tureen over
some thin slices of farmhouse bread.
Tourin de noces
Brown in lard or goose
fat 1 large grated onion and 6 quartered tomatoes. Add 1.25 litres (2 ¼ pints,
5 ½ cups) hot water. Season well with salt and pepper. When the vegetables are
cooked, rub them through a sieve. Add 1 tablespoon vermicelli and some small
grilled (broiled) croutons to the soup and boil for a few minutes more. Season
with pepper and serve.
TOURNEBRIDE An obsolete name for an inn situated near a cheateau or
country residence, where visitors servants and horses were lodged. Already
old-fashioned at the beginning of the 20th century, the word
tournebride, which originally meant turnabout, is however, still used to
describe a quiet welcoming country inn in France.
TORUNEDOS (FILET
MIGNON) A small round slice, about 2.5 cm (1 in) thick, taken from the heart of
a fillet of beef and sauteed or grilled. In French butchery, the classic
presentation of the tournedos, barded and tied up, enables others roasting cuts
to be used in the same way as fillet, these cuts are called au facon tournedos
(tournedos style)
The Dictionnaire de I Academie des
gastronomes explains the etymology of the word, which appeared around 1864, as
follows. In the last century, the stalls backing on to the central alleys of
the fresh fish pavillion, in the Paris halles, were assigned fish of doubtful
freshness. By analogy, the name tournedos was given to pieces of fillet of beef
that were kept for a few days in storage. An indiscretion is said to have led
to the word’s appearing on a res taurant menu one day, the public, not knowing
its origin, adopted it. Another explanation is connected with the dish ordered
by Rossini which surprised the head waiter so much that he had the dish served
behind the back of the other customers. This cut of meat has one of the largest
varieties of garnishes and sauces.
RECIPES
Sauteed or grilled
tournedos
Saute the tournedos very
rapidly in butter, oil or a mixture of both, so that the interior remains pink.
They can also be grilled (broiled)
Depending on the choice of garnish, or to prevent the garnish from masking the
tournedos, the steaks are sometimes arranged on fried or grilled croutons,
potato cakes, artichoke hearts or rice. The following are a few suggestions for
garnishes and sauces.
A la bearmaise Grill
and garnish with chateau potatoes, serve bearnaise sauce separately.
Ala d’ abrantes Season
with paprika, saute in oil, then arrange on a grilled slice of aubergine
(eggplant) add to the cooking juices some lightly fried onion, a salpicon of sweet (bell) pepper and
tomato sauce.
A la perigourdine Saute
in butter, place on a fried crouton, garnish with slices of truffle tossed in
butter, pour over a sauce made from the pan juices mixed with Madeira.
Archiduc Saute in
butter and arrange on a potato cake, garnish with croquettes of calves brains
and silvers of truffle, cover with the pan juices diluted with sherry, crème
fraiche and veal stock, and flavoured with paprika.
Clamart Saute in butter and garnish with
artichoke hearts filled with peas or fresh pea puree, pour over a sauce made
from the pan juices mixed with white wine and veal stock.
Saint Germain Saute in butter, place on a
fried crouton and garnish with thick pea puree.
With anchovies Saute in
butter and arrange on a slice of fried bread, pour over a sauce made from the
pan juices mixed with thickened veal stock, white wine and little anchovy
butter, garnish with half fillets of anchovies in oil, placed in a crisscross
pattern on the tournedos.
With mushrooms Saute in butter, pour over a
sauce made from the pan juices mixed with thickened veal stock and Madeira,
garnish with mushrooms sauteed in butter.
Tournedos
Brillat-Savarin
Wash 250 g ( 9 oz)
fresh morels, cut off the stems and make small cuts in the caps. Simmer them in
a little water for 15 minutes, then drain. Brown a chopped shallot in butter in
a frying pan. Add the morels with a little mustard and a few tablespoons of
double (heavy0 cream. Finish cooking over a low heat. Adjust the seasoning and
keep warm.
Gently fry the tournedos in butter. Remove
and keep warm. Stir into the pan 175 ml ( 6 ft oz. ¾ cup0 port and 5
tablespoons gray and heat. Remove from the heat and thicken the sauce with
butter. Adjust the seasoning. Arrange the morels around the tournedos and pour
over the strained sauce.
TOURTE A round pie or
tart, which can be savoury or sweet. The name originally designated a round loaf
(from the Latin tortus) A tourte consists of a shortcrust or puff pastry case
(shell) filled either with a mixture of meat, poultry, game, fish or vegetable
(with aromatics and additional ingredients) or with fruit and cream, covered
with a lid of the same pastry. Some
sweet tourtes do not have lids, these
are high-sided tarts. Large rustic brioches are called tourtes.
Similar
to English pies, tourtes nowadays derive from rustic or regional
cookery. They once played a major role as classic entrees or desserts, trourtes
with truffles, oysters, pigeons, foie gras, beatilles and goduvaux, very
fashionable until the 17th century, gave way to the lighter
vol-au-vent, croutes and timbales, as Careme pointed out in his tRaite des
entrees chaudes.The tourte is no logner elegant enough to appear on our opulent
tables, because its shape is too common, even the middle classes scorn it and
eat only hot patres and vol-au-vent, whereas rich merchants and their families
used to regale themselves with the humble tourtes.
In medieval cookery and during the
Renaissance, it was once of the commonest dishes and was sometimes highly
decorative mention should be made of the frangipane tourte, similar to the Pithiviers gateau, and the tourtes
pannerfennes of Taillevent (large round tall pies filled with mutton, veal or
pork, with spices and raisins, coloured with saffron, and with casetellated
edges in which small flags bearing the guests coats of arms were placed.
RECIPES
Appricot tourte
Place some thinly
rolled-out shortcrust pastry (basic pie dough ) in a tourtiere or deep flan
dish lightly moistened in a the middle. Trim it to size, prick the base and
moisten the edge, fixing around it a band of puff pastry 3 cm ( 1 ¼ in) wide
and 1 cm ( ½ in) thick to form the rim. Fill the tourte with stoned (pitted
fresh apricots, without letting the fruit touch the pastry rim (which would
prevent it from rising evenly during cooking).Brush the upper surface of the
rim with egg and score it lightly with the point of a knife. Bake in a
preheated oven at 190 oC(375 oF, gas 5) for about 45
minutes. About 5 minutes before it is cooked, sprinkle lightly with icing
(confectioner’s) sugar to provide a glaze.
Many other fruits can be used, cooked or
uncooked, whole or cut up, pineapple, cherries, nectarines, pears, apples or
plums.
Tourte of veal with
Parmesan cheese
Make 400 g ( 14 oz)
shortcrust pastry (basic pie dough, see short pastry) Soak a pig’s caul (fat)
in cold water. Cut into strips 250 g ( 9 oz) noix of veal, a large slice of
smoked ham and 200 g ( 7 oz) bacon fat, marinate in a bowl with 100 ml ( 4 ft
oz. 7 tablespoons) white wine, 2 tablespoons) white wine 2 tablespoons Cognac,
thyme, salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, chop up 200 g ( 7 oz) breast of
veal, a large slice of smoked ham, 200 g
( 7 oz ) bacon fat, 300 g ( 11 oz) calf’s liver and 3-4 shallots. Add 100 g ( 4
oz. 1 cup) grated Parmesan cheese and mix with 2 beaten whole eggs, salt and
pepper.
Roll out two – thirds of the pastry and line
a buttered tourtiere or deep flan dish with it. Lay the caul inside, letting
the edges overhang. Spread half of the forcemeat on top, add the strips of
meat, then the remaining forcemeat. Fold over the edges of the caul.Roll out
the remaining pastry and place it on top
of the flan dish, sealing the edges by moistening and pinching them. Make a
small hole in the middle and slide a funnel made of foil inside to let the
steam escape. Brush the top of the tourte with beaten egg and bake in the
preheated oven at 220 oC (425 oF, gas 7) for 1 ½ hours.
Tourtes a la mode
bearnaise
Melt 500 g ( 18 oz. 2 ¼
cups) butter and pour it over 100 g ( 4 oz, 8 cakes ) fresh (compressed) yeast
in a bowl. Mix together. Add 500 g ( 18 oz,. 2 ¼ cups) caster (superfine)
sugar, 12 eggs, 1 small glass rum, the grated zest of 2 lemons, a pinch of salt
and enough flour to obtain a firm mixture. Leave to rise for 24 hours. Divide
into balls and put into buttered moulds. Bake in a preheated oven at 220 oC
(425 oF, gas 7) for about 45 minutes.
TOURTEAU A French
name for the common edible crab, the biggest European crab, fished both
in the Atlantic and in the Mediteranean, where it lives on rocks and stones at
depths of up to 100 m (328 ft) Its oval yellowish brown canapaces is wider than
it is long and is lightly scalloped around the edge. The first pair of legs,
which are highly developed and have large black tipped pincers, contain a
delicate flesh.
RECIPE
Tourteau fromage
Make some short pastry
(basic pie dough) using 250 g ( 9 oz, 2 ¼ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, 125
g ( 4 ½ oz, 9 tablespoons) butter, 1 egg yolk, 1 –2 tablespoons water and a
pinch of salt. Lave in a cool place for 2 hours, roll out to a thickness of 5
mm ( ¼ in) and line a buttered tourtiere ( or deep flan dish) 20 cm ( 8 in) in
diameter. Bake blind for about 10 minutes. Mix 250 g ( 9oz0 well-drained fresh
goat’s milk cheese with 125 g ( 4 ½ oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, a
pinch of salt, 5 egg yolks and 25 g ( 1 oz, ¼ cup) potato starch. Mix well,
then add 1 teaspoon brandy or 1 tablespoon orange flower water. Whisk 5 egg
whites to very stiff peaks and gently fold them into the mixture. Pour into the
pastry case (shell) and bake in a preheated oven art 200 oC (400
oF, gas 6) for about 50 minutes. Serve warm or cold.
TOURTIERE A round mould of variable diameter, slightly
wider at the top, with high fluted or smooth side. Made of ovenproof white
porcelain earthenware or ovenproof glass, sometimes with a removable base, it
is used for cooking and serving tourtes, tarts or pies.
The word is also used in France for any kind
of pie dish, tart mould or flan ring.
TOURTOU Also known as
tourton. A small buckwheat pancake, the Limousin equivalent of the Breton
galette, traditionally cooked in a frying pan greased with pork fat. Tourtous
are a speciality of the Tulle region, where they are still made at home by
housewives and taken to the local village shops to be sold.
In
Perigord. Quercy and Rouergue, tourteaux are small cornmeal pancakes
(not be confused with the fourteau fromage)
TRAIT A small quantity of a spirit or liqueur used
for making a cocktail. It is generally measured by means of a measuring cap.
TRAPPISTE A generic name for various cheeses made by
monks, particularly in the Trapist monasteries of Citeaux, Belval, Briquebec,
Mont des-Cats and Lamie, as well as in certain Belgian monasteries. They bear
the name of the abbey where they are made sometimes preceded by the words
trappiste de Made from cow’s milk (40-45% fat content) they take the form of
discs of varying sizes. Trappiste de Belval, originating in Picardy, is a
pressed uncooked cheese with a smooth washed rind, straw yellow to greyish in
colour. Piliable and delicate, the ivory yellow cheese has a mild
flavour.Trappiste de Citeaux with the same characteristics, has a more fruity
flavour.Trappiste d’ Echourgnac an ivory
yellow cheese pierced with very small holes, which has a mild flavour, and
Trappiste d’ Entramine’s which has a
fruity flavour are also worth mentioning.
TRAVAILLER A French
verb meaning to beat or mix together the
elements of a dough, batter or any liquid preparation, in order to blend in
various ingredients, to make it homogenous or smooth, or to give it body.
Depending on the type of preparation
(forcemeat, puree, dough, cream or sauce), the process is carried out
either on the stove or away from the heat, sometimes on ice, with a wooden
spatula, a manual or electric whisk, a blender, a mixer or even with the
hand.
The intransitive form of the verb travailler
is applied to rising dough or fermenting alcohol.
TRAY A large, flat, low-rimmed container,
sometimes with handles, used for presenting and carrying to table various
foods. It may be made of wood, wicker, glass or metal. A plateau de fruits de
mer seafood platter’s) is an assortment
of shellfish served on a tray garnished with crushed ice or seaweed.
TREACLE An alternative term for heavy syrup or golden
(corn0 syrup but more usually used in the context of black treacle, which is a
dark (almost black) thick product of molasses and sugar syrup. It has a strong,
bitter flavour .Black treacle is used in
some baking such as dark gingerbreads, and in some savoury dishes, including
Boston baked beans.
TRENCHER Formerly a
wooden board used for carving meat. In
the Middle Ages, the trencher was a thick slice of bread which was used
as a plate. When the bread became too impregnated with sauce or broth at the
end of the meal, it was given to the poor. Parisian trencher bread, according
to the Menagier de Paris, was a fairly coarse loaf made in Corbeil and sold in
the Place Mauberit
TRICHOLOMA A genus of fleshy robust mushrooms with white
or pink gills, indented near the stalk, and without a ring (or volva) They are
available from spring to the end of autumn and most species are edible the
tastiest are Tricholoma gamboston which is white or buff and the wood blewit which is brownish violet
colour (the fibrous base of its stalk
must be cut off and the rather sticky skin of its cap must be removed).
Both of these are excellent when prepared
like charnterelles and can even be eaten raw. The wood blewit also grows in winter and can be cultivated. Other
species worthy of note are Tricholoma
argyraceum, which is brownish grey with a very delicate flavour after
cooking Rrichloma equestre which tastes like a carnation, the pinkish white.
Tricholoma columbetta, and Tricholoma terreum.
TRICLINIUM In ancient Rome a dining room containing
three couches arranged parallel to three sides of a table the fourth side
remaining free for the service. Each couch accommodated three guests,
Rich
patricians had three trichiniums; one for summer, one for winter and one for
spring and autmn.
TRIFLE A favourite
Engilsh dessert – despite its name
meaning ‘of no account’ – eaten on festive occasions. Also called tipsy cake,
it is usually made of sherry-soaked
sponge cake with custard and often jam, decorated with cream and sometimes
fruit; however, recipes go back to the 16th century with many variations. Naples biscuits, macarooms and ratafia
biscuits (cookies) formed the bottom
layer in the 18th century, covered with custard and syllabub, the
latter becoming cream old versions of the Scottish whim-wham include
syllabub, layered with sponge and redcurrant jelly. The dean’s cream (from Trinity College, Cambridge) contains crumbled
ratfias or macaroons with sherry, cream and crystallized (candied) fruit, while
the dukes’ custard over Naples biscuits. There
are also consciously non-alcoholic version from the 1860s: ‘church’
trifle was made with sherry and ‘chapel’ without it, but jam
instead. Jelly is a modern addition.
Zuppa inglese is direct copy created in Naples to honour Lord Nelson in 1798, but
the world has many similar desserts.
TRIGGERISH A flat,
lozenge-shaped fish from warm seats. Its
French name of a Roman war machine (balista) and derives from the dorsal trigger which it display in times of danger. The best-known species is the
Mediterranean triggerfish, which is prepared in the same way as tuna and has a
similar flavour.
TRIM To remove all the
inferior, unsuitable or inedible parts form food before cooking.
Some cooked items or dishes are trimmed to improve
their appearance before serving. For example, poached eggs are trimmed after
cooking to remove the dough edges.
TRIMALCHIO A character created by Petronius, a Roman
writer of the 1st century AD,
in the Satyricon, an account of the wanderings of a young dissolute. Roman
Trimalchio is a typical parvenu who exhibits vulgur ostentation
in his private life, particularly at table. Trimalchio offers his friends and
courtesansed gargantuan feast with a
multiplicity of courses fish, plump
chicken , wild boars, sow’s udder, pigs stuffed with sausages and black
puddings (blood sausages), oysters and
snails. In Trimalchio, Petronius caricatures the nouvaux riches the habits described are not representtive of the usual
Roman practice of the time. The
expression festin de Trimalicion (Trimalchio’s feast) is sometimes used so describe a magnificient, but in view
of its true meaning it is hardly a compliment.
TRIPLE The stomach of
runimants (especially ox, call or sheep) used as food. It is usually sold specially prepared or
cleaned for cooking, hot is also available ready-cooked or pickled.
§ Triple in
French cooking Tripe can be prepared in a variety of ways and it is used in a large number of regional French
dishes, usually highly seasoned. The
best-known French dish is tripes a la mode de Caen. The authencity of
which has been defended by the Norman
Confrene de la Tripiere d’ore since
1952; each year they award a prize to the best manufacturer. Triple can
also be marinated and then fried or grilled (broiled); sautéed with onions slowly stewed with tomatoes;
cooked au gratin, cooked in a sauce with vegetable flavourings, or cooked in
broth, wine or cider. Particular mention should be made of tripe en
meurette, cooked with vinegar, shallots and crème fraiche; Bugey tripe, sautéed, flamed with mare brandy and slowly stewed in white wine
with tomatoes and spices; and tripe a la dauphinoise (slowly stewed with bacon rinds, pork skin,
tomatoes garlic and spicy stock.)
§ International tripe dishes Tripe dishes of other countries include busecca from Lombardy, a
soup made with calf’s tripe and green vegetables, Spaniards tripes a la
madrilene, highly spiced and garnished
with chorizo, chilli peppers, garlic
and thin strips of sweet red (bell) pepper, Bulgarian tchorba, tripe
soupe, the Arab anurise, tripe and plack boiled with cumin, pepper and orange and lemon rind and
harbouche, or tripe couscous, tripe simmered with oil, garlic, cumin, caraway,
white haricot (navy) beans and beef
sausage, and the British tripe and onions, simmered in milk with bay leaves.
RECIPES
Tripes a la mode de
Caen
Line the bottom of a
marmite or flameproof casserole with 500 g (18 oz. 2 ½ cups) finely sliced onions and 500 g (18 oz. 3 cups) sliced
carrots. On top of these put 2 calves feet, boned and cur into pieces, together
with their long bones split, in half lengthways. Add a mixture of 2 kg (4 ½ lb) ox (beef)
tripe, consisting of the pasalterium (or
manyplies), rennet (or reeds), reticulum and rumen, cut into 5 cm (2 in)
pieces. Insert among the tripe 4 garlic cloves, a large bouquet garni (mostly thyme and bay leaf) and 300 g (11 oz)
leeks, tied in a bunch. Season with 3 teaspoons coarse salt, 1 teaspoon
freshly ground pepper and a pinch of ‘four spices’. Cover with a few slices of
beef fat, then pour in enough cider, mixed with a few tablespoons of Calvados, to cover.
Begin cooking on the stove without a lid, then cover and
seal with a flour-and-water luting paste.
Cook in a preheated oven at 140°C (275°F, gas 1 ) for about 10 hours.
Before serving, remove the layer of fat,
drain the tripe and take out the bouquet garni, al the bones and the leeks. Put the tripe into a serving dish and pour
over the cooling stock, strained and skimmed of fat. Keep as hot as
possible until serving. Serve on heated plates or in small
earthenware bowls, with steamed potatoes.
Tripe soup a la
milanaise
Cut into Julienne strips 500 g (18 oz). Calf’s
tripe, which has been blanched, cooled and drained. In a flameproof casserole heat 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup)
bacon cut into small cubes, a medium-sized onion and the shredded white part of
a leek. Add the julienne strips of trip
and brown for a few minutes on the stove. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon
flour. Add 2 litres (3 ½ pints, 9 cups) stock or water and
bring to the boil. Cut the heart of a medium sized cabbage into small
pieces, blanch for 6 minutes in boiling
water, then drain. Peel and
seed 2 tomatoes and crush had pulp. Add to the boiling soup the cabbage, the tomatoes , 5
tablespoons peas and a few small sprigs of broccoli. Seasoned with salt and pepper and pepper and cook
rapidly for at least 1 ½ hours.
TRIPERIE In France, all
the offal (variety meat) of slaughtered animals, which is sold mainly by the
tripe butcher. However, kidneys and liver may be sold at an ordinary butcher,
and pig’s offal is sold and processed by the pork butcher. In the Middle Ages,
the tripe butchers’ corporation was founded in
Paris by six families, who purchased white or red offal from butchers on
a whole sale basis. They prepared the offal and
resold it to merchants, who peddled it about the streets, in copper containers,
especially ox (beef) tripe with saffron.
TROIS-FRERRES A pastry
created in the 19th century by the three Julien brothers, celebrated
Parisian pastrycooks, for which a special mould, in the shape of a large twisted crown, was invented. A mixture
of rice flour and melted butter is poured on to eggs whisked with sugar,
flavoured with vanilla or Marschino, cooked, then set on a base of sweet
pastry. Trois-freres is traditionally glazed with apricot and decorated with apricot and decorated with candied angelica.
A variant of this pastry is made ground
almonds, sugar, eggs and whipped cream, flavoured with orange, iced (frosted), then decorated with fruit. The
special mould is sometimes replaced by a savarin mould.
RECIPE
Trois-freeres
Make 250 g (9 oz) pate
sablee (see short pastry). Put 7 whole eggs into a heatproof basin and whisk
on the hob (stove top), over hot water water, with 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar. When
the mixture is thick and creamy, our in 225 g ( 8 oz. 2 cups) rice flour, 200 g
(7 oz. 1 cup) melted butter and 2 tablespoons Maraschino or rum, mix
thoroughly, then pour into a well-buttered trois-freres mould. Roll out the dough to a round shape 5 mm (1/4
in) thick and a little larger than the mould. Place on a buttered and floured
baking sheet. Bake both the pastry dough
and the egg mixture in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) at the same time, the former for 45 minutes and then
latter for 20 minutes. Remove from the oven, urn out of the mould and allow to
cool. Set the crown-shaped cake on the
pastry base, cover generously with apricot syrup, sprinkle with chopped
shredded (slivered), almonds and decorate with diamond shapes of candied
angelica.
TROISGROS, JEAN AND
PIERRE French chefs and restaurteurs Jean (born 1926, Chalon-sur-Saone; died
(1983; Roanne) and Pierre (born 1928), Chalonsur-Saone), the sons of Jean-Baptise. Troisgros, a café-owner
who later come oroprietor of the small station hotel at Roanne (Loire),
when and his wife were in charge of the kitchens. The two brothers were sent to Lucas-Carton in
Paris for their apprenticeship, then to
Ferdnand Point in Vienne. In 1954 they
began to practice their trade in the family hotel, then took over the
management; therefore their progress was
continuos (one star in the Michelin guide in 1955, tow in 1965, three in 1968).
Their cookery was inspired by recipes handed down from
past generations, sometimes almost peasant in character for example, pigeons a
la gouse d’ail on chemise, snails en poelon with green butter and foie gras fried with spinach. But they also brought family dishes to peak of perfection, notably their famous escalope of salmon with
sorrel and their mosique of vegetables stuffed with
truffles. Pierre proved to be mat specialist,
whereas Jean was a wine connoisseur. Together
they created rib of beef au
fluree and a la moelle, accompanied by a gratin of potatoes a la forezienne
(without cheese), aiguilleties of
mallard with st. George’s mushroom, or, in a more modern vien, scallops en
croute with nantes butter, and salade riche (for gras, lobster and truffle).
TRIPEZIENNE A round of
brioche pastry, cooked, then filled with a cream mousseline enhanced with rum,
and sprinkled with icing (confectioner’s ) sugar. This speciality of
Saint-Tropez is now known all over
France.
TROQUET A popular term in France for a drinking
establishment (synonymous with bistro). It is a
shortened from a mastroquet (wine retailer), which appears
to come from the Dutch meesterike
(small employees), allied to the slang
word stroc 9a measure of wine).
TROU NORMAND The former
custom, also called coup de millieu, of drinking a small glass of spirits in
the middle of a large meal to aid digestion
and stimualte the appetite for the
remaining courses. The spirit was
calvados (hence the name, Calvados being
destilled in Normandy, but Cognac, kirsc or
a fruit brandy could also be drunk, usually after the entrees and
before the roasts. Nowadays , in place of the trou normand, a fruit sorbet is sometimes
served, sprinkled with an appropriate spirits; orange and Cognac, pineapple and
kirsch, pear and pear brandy, or lemon and vodka.
TROUSSER A French term
meaning to arrange fowl or winged
game in the appropriate form before trussing, with the legs straight out for roasting and folded in the braising
or poaching. The term trousse is
particularly appalled to a bird with a small incision made in its sides for inserting the leg and thigh-joint. Four some small fowl, troussage may make
trussing unnecessary.
Crayfish (and sometimes langoustines) are often trouse
for a particular garnish the process consists of sticking the ends of the
pincers into the base of the
‘taili’ (that is, the abdomen).
TROUT A fish of
mountain streams, lakes and rivers,
highly sought-after by fishermen. This
carnivorous fish, with tasty flesh (its name comes from Greek troktes,
meaning ‘voracious’), is also bred on a
large scale in trout farms. Since 1961,
when the guillon law was passed, only
specially bred rainbow trout have been sold in fish shops or served in
restaurants in France, whereas the majority of
regional trout dishes are, in principle, intended for trout caught
locally.
§ BROWN , SEA
AND NALMON TROUTE. The common brown trout constitutes 55 of bred trout, but
young fish are rapidly reintroduced into their
natural environment to restock well-oxygenated rivers. Adult
trout are a golden colour, with spots on the top half of the body, but
the degree of colouring depends on habitat, sex and age; they can grow as long
as 60 cm (2 ft. highly esteemed in the Middle Ages, trout was then cooked in a court-bouillon or a pie. A
variety called the lake trout, living in lakes and fast-flowing streams can
grow as long as 1 cm (39 in) its died, rich in shellfish, turns its flesh
pink; it is then called salmon trout.
The same is true of the sea trout which lives in coastal rivers nearer the
English Channel and swims down to the sea, returning to the rivers in autumn. In France fishing for the brown trout, lake
trout and sea trout requires a permit the fish are reserved for private
consumption.
§ RAINBOW
TRUOT The rainbow trout is a species
imported from the United States (where it lives in open water), it is bred in fish farms on a large scale. It is a
silvery fish, sometimes with a purplish-blue band down its side. It has spots over its entire body. Including the fins.
§ SPECKLED
TROUT The speckled trout is a fish of the salmonidae family, imported from Labrador and introduced into the lakes of the Alps and the Vosges.
Often wrongly confused with the char, the speckled trout is particularly
identifiable by the many zebra stripes of its colouring. This fine, much
sought-after species is fished in
spring.
§ Trout
farming The brown trout was the first fish to be bred successfully b artificial insemination, as early as the 15th century.
At the Reome monastery
(Cote-d’Or), Dom Pinchon took and fertilized some trout eggs, put them in boxes on a bed of
sand and replaced the fish in the
river. Known to a number of fishermen and kept secret, this method was
rediscovered in 1842 by two Vosgians. But
the expansion of trout farming did not occur until the beginning the 20th century, when the rainbow trout was imported.
The milt of stud males is poured on to
the eggs of selected females, the eggs
are left to mentate in water rich in oxyen at constant temperature. The alevins
are then placed in tanks, while they are growing they are sorted into batches
of uniform size. At
about five months, the alevin measures
6 cm (2 ½ in) and already has the
general shape of a trout. Between 6 and
16 cm (2 ½ and 6 ½ in)., or 40 –75 g (1 ½-3 oz), it is called a troulet (truitcle), which becomes a
truite-portion between 18 months and 2
years, when it measures 28 cm (11 in) and weigh 150-300 g 95 –11 oz). It can
live for a further 10 years and reach
6-8 kg (13-18 lb), but this only happens to those specimens selected for
reproduction.
The diet of the bred
trout - fish meal and soya (soy) flour
- is carefully measured, the trout cannot be forced-fed in order to make
it grow. Furthermore, it needs space, otherwise it will die. The defects
attributed to trout from breeding farms (tasteless or flaccid flesh) are usually caused by the
treatment they received at the fishmonger or at the restaurant, where the water in which they are kept may be too
warm or insufficiently oxygenated.
§ Smoked trout
Smoked trout are also sold whole or in skinned (rainbow or sea front,
sometimes salmon trout). In Norway, in
particular, salmon trout bred in fords
are smoked, frozen or bottled.
§ Trout
cookery Trout a la meuniere and an bleu are well-known dishes, which are succuluent when made with freshly caught brown trout. There
are in addition, a variety of tasty ancient recipes from the French provinces. In Auvengne, trout is fried
with chopped baccon and garlic; stuffed
a la montelorienne (with breakcrums, cream, herbs, and mushrrooms), cooked in
fumet and coated with cream sauce; or poached in fillets and served on a
julienne; of cabbage simmered in cream.
Trout a la d’tssed is poached, then, the next day, rolled in breadcrumbs
and cooked an gratin . in
south-western France, trout (known as
trouete or trucbet) is fried or braised in white wine with cep mushrooms or
stuffed with whiting flesh ground with duck foie gras and cooked en papillote.
In Savoy, trout is cooked au bleu, a la meuniere (a speciality of Lake Annexcy), in a court-bouillon (served with a
mousseline sauce), or stuffed and braised a l’appremont, in corsica (were corte is a major river-fishing
centre), it is traditionally cooked with aromatics and red wine in a poelon (a
long-handled metal pan). In Normandy,
trout is pot-roasted with bacon a la
made de Vire, cooked in a mattelote with
cider(in the Andelys); cooked en
pupillose, with apple, herbs, cream and Calvados, or made into a hot pie
(a traditional idsh of the bishops of
Rouen), Mention should also be made of trout a la bauraaisienne (roasted with
pepperooms), trout a la monthardoise (stuffed) with spinach and shallot and
cooked in a court boullon), also called caprice de Buffaon (n honour of the naturalist. Buffon, who ws born in Monbard), trout pate a
la lorraine (fillets ground with nutmeg and herbs, mixed with chopped morels
and garnished with whole fillets); trout
flambe from Perigond, served with
melted butter; and plain grilled
(broiled trous, as described by Austin de
Croze. The trout were gutted, scrped, and washed,
while some broad flat pebbles were being heated in a hole
with burning twigs. The hot pebbles were removed with
forked branches, on each was placed few drops of oil or a tiny piece of
butter, followed immediately by the seasoned trout, in which some
diamond-shaped incision had been made hot pebbles were used to seal the other
side of the trout… which were eaten au naturedl on large hunks of bread. Jean Giono, a great connoisseur,
denounces trout with almonds, a classic
restaurant dish that is despised by many
guormets. ‘never with butter, never with
almonds. That’s not cookery, its’ cardboard-making… Apart from trout au blue,
people don’t know bow to cook trout.
Despite the
prejudice against them, bred trout are
widely used in restaurants in various dishes, hot or cold, some more elaborate than others. Chefs
have prepared then in a variety of imaginative
ways l laguipiere served the Emperor
Napoleon grilled trout, which had
been marinated in olive oil and lemon, with a maitre d’hotel sauce seasoned
with nutmeg. Fernand Point devised a
recipe for trout stuffed. With mushrooms, truffle, carrots and celery, sealed
in a court-bouillon, sprinkled with port, and finished off in the oven en
papillote, coated with the cooking juices thickened with beurre manie. Classic preparations include trout poached in
a court-bouilon and served with a hollandaise sauce, cooked in red wine a la
bourguignonne, fried a la Colbert, or cold, in aspic, with various
garnishes. In addition, any salmon
recipe can be used for trout.
RECIPES
Fried trout
Clean, gut and dry some
very small trout. Season with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Deep-fry in
sizzling oil, then drain and arrange on
a napkin. Serve with a green salad and
slices of lemon.
Medallions of trout
with chive butter
Blanch 100 g (4
oz) spinach for 1 minute. Rinse in plenty of cold water, dry well and chop
very finely in a blender, combine 150 g (5 oz)
scallops without their corals, the spinach, 5 tablespoons whipping cream
and 3 tablespoons white wine. season
with salt and pepper. Cover 6 good trout
fillets with this mixture, then roll then up on themselves. Wrap eat trout
foil, carefully sealing the ends. Cook in steam for 8-10 minutes. put to one
side. Reduce almost completely 120 ml (
(4 ½ fl. oz. ½ cup) good white wine with
1 very fine chopped shallot in a saucepan. Add 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) very cold
butter, cut into pieces, and incorporate vigorously. Add 3-4 tablespoons finely chopped
chives. Correct the seasoning. Put this
chive butter on the plates and place the
rolled trout fillets, cut into medallions, on top. Garnish with the vegetables
cooked of dente.
Salmon trout Beuharnais
Stuff a salmon trout
weighing about 900 g (2 lb) with 250 g (9 oz) forcemeat of whiting and cream
mixed with 4 tablespoons vegetables mirepolx lightly cooked in butter. Place on the butter grid of a fish kettle, half-cover with fish fumet made
with white wine and cook in a preheated over at 230°°°F, gas 8), or place the
fish kettle on the hob (stove top)
across two burners or hotplates, for
about 20 minutes. drain the
trout, place in serving dish and garnish with noisette potatoes cooked in butter and small artichoke hearts cooked in butter and filled with
bearnalse sauce.
Strain the cooking liquid, reduce, thicken with butter
and serve with the trout.
salmon trout with salad
clean and filet 4
salmon truot. Slice the fillets into
thin strips, lay on a porcelain dish, season with salt and pepper and sprinkle
with olive oil. Turn them over and repeat the operation. Leave to marinate
overnight in a cool place.
On the day of the meal, cook some small artichokes,
keeping them crisp, peel 2 very ripe avocados, poach 3 quails’ eggs per quest
and prepare a very fine julienne of orange zest and ginger. Cook 3 crayfish per person in a highly flavoured
court bouillon.
Arrange the raw trout fillets in a fan shape on the
plates. Place the crayfish, with their
tails shelled, at the base of the fan, then complete the fan, with avocado
slices, artichoke quarters and quails eggs. Sprinkle with the julienne of
orange and ginger then season with a dash of lemon juice and a little olive
oil.
In autumn, make the garnish with thin strips of Caesar’s
mushrooms, a boletus cap marinated with the trout fillets, small shape pieces
of beetroot (red beet), crisp French (green) bean, artichoke hearts, poached
quails’ eggs and a julienne of orange zest and fresh ginger.
Trout a la
bourguignonne
Clean and dry 4 trout
and season with salt and pepper inside and out. Finely slice 250 g (9 oz)
cleaned mushrooms, I carrot and 1 onion, lightly cook in butter and use to line
a buttered ovenproof dish. Place the trout in the dish and add a bouquet garni
and just enough red Burgundy to over the
fish. Bring to the boil on the hob (store top), then cover and cook in preheated
oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for about 10 minutes. glaze 12 small (pearl) onions. Drain the trout and place in a heated serving dish, with the onions as
garnish. Keep hot. Strain the cooking
liquid, thicken with1 tablespoon beurre manie, and put back on the heat for 2-3
minutes, add 2 tablespoons unsalted
butter, whisk and pour over the trout.
Trout a la nage jean
Giono
Clean and rinse the
freshly killed trout. Pour into a dish
1 glass vinegar and season with salt and pepper; put the trout in the dish,
turning them over several times, then leave to marinate for 15 minutes.
Heat a little vinegar in a large sauté pan or flameproof casserole (large enough to
hold the trout), then pour in 1 glass olive oil beaten with 5 glasses
water. Add 1 carrot, 1 leek and 1 onion
(all sliced), 1 small chopped celery stick, 3 crushed garlic cloves, 5 crushed
juniper berries, a pinch of powdered thyme, salt, pepper and a dozen fennel
seeds. Boil rapidly, until the liquid
has reduced to about 1 cm (1/2 in).
Add the trout.
Cover, bring to the boil, then cook at maximum heat for 1 minute and
over a low heat for a further 4 minutes.
Trout au bleu
For true trou au bleu,
the fish must be extremely fresh – killed about 10 minutes before cooking and serving. Take the fish out of the
water and kill them with a hard blow on
the head; gut and clean rapidly, without wiping. Sprinkle with vinegar,
then plunge into a boiling
court-bouillon containing a high
proportion of vinegar, Simmer, allowing 6-7 minutes for fish weighing about 150
g (5 oz). Drain and arrange on a napkin.
Garnish with fresh parsley and serve with melted butter or hollandaise
sauce.
Trout with almonds
Clean and dry four 250
g (9 oz) trout. Season with salt and pepper and dust with flour. Melt 50 g (2 oz, ¼ cup) butter in a large
oval frying pan and brown the trout on both sides, then lower the heat and cook
for 10-12 minutes, turning once. Brown
75 g (3 oz., ¼ cup) shredded (silvered)
almonds in a dry frying pan or in the oven and add to the trout and arrange on
a serving dish. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons lemon juice and some
chopped parsley. Keep warm. Add 20 g
(3/4 oz. 1 ½ tablespoons) butter and 1 tablespoon vinegar to the frying pan,
heat, then pour over the trout with the almonds.
Trout with leeks
Remove the backbone
from an uncooked trout, season with salt and pepper, and stuff with a fine
forcemeat of whiting and cream. Roll up
in blanched whole leaves of young leeks.
Cook in a buttered dish with a
little white wine and shallots. Drain
the fish. Reduce the cooking liquid, if necessary, and thicken with cream;
adjust the seasoning and pour over the trout.
TROUVILLE The name given to a recipe for lobster. After being cooked in a court-bouillon, it
is removed from its shell and cut into
salpicons, then mixed with thin slices of mushrooms sautéed in butter, oysters and mussels (poached and
trimmed), and slices of truffle. This mixture is arranged within a circle of
risotto with sauce a la normande, the
whole is then covered with a light sauce Mornay, sprinkled with grated cheese
and glazed under the grill (broiler).
TRUFFADE Also known as truffado. A speciality from Auvergne, made of cooked
potatoes, peeled coarsely shrredded,
then fried in lard over a brisk heat, with thin strips of Tomme (fresh Cantal
cheese) added. The mixture is stirred
until the cheese added. The mixture is
stirred until the cheese melts and combines with the potato to form a thick
pancake, which is turned over, covered, cooked for a few more minutes over a low heat and then served as a hot entrée. Connoisseurs of this dish consider that the
best Tomme for truffade is that of a
Planeze, which is particularly high in fat. Fried lardons or chopped garlic are sometimes
added. The name comes from truffe, or trouffe, a former name for ‘potato’ in country
areas.
TRUFFER A French
culinary term meaning to impart the
aroma of truffles to a dish by incorporating pieces of truffle. It is mainly foie gras, forcemeats (for pates,
poultry, quenelels and black puddings), salpicons and ragouts that have diced
or choped truffle added to them. A chicken can be ‘truffled’ by sliding strips of truffle between the flesh
and skin. As Grimond de La Reyniere
stated; ‘Maraschino can be “truffled” as
well as turkey,” but overuse is not recommended, as the Dictionnair de
l’Academie des gastronomes makes clear:
‘Let us be truffophilles, even truffivores at times, but let us refrain
fom truffomania!’
TRUFFLE A subterranean
fungus which lives in symbiosis with certain trees, mainly the oak but also the
chestnut, hazel and beech. A highly
esteemed foodstuff, the truffle (from the Latin tuber, meaning ‘outgrowth’ or
‘excrecence’) is rounded, of variable size and irregular shape, and black, dark
brown or sometimes grey or white in
colour; it is found especially in chalky soil or clay, quite near the surface,
less than 30 cm (12 in) deep. French truffle production (particularly in the
south-west and south-east) has drastically declined since the beginning of the
20th century, because of deforestation, the deterioration of
suitable land and the use of pesticides.
Before 1914, same 1740 tons of truffles where harvested each year in
Perigord alone. Now less than 200 tons
are harvested in the whole of France Methodical truffle cultivation has not yet
given conclusive results.
§ Mysterious
origins. The truffle has been known and
appreciated since ancient times. The Egyptions are truffles coated in goose
fat and cooked en papillote. The ancient
Greeks and Romans attributed therapeutic and aphrodisiac powers to them the latter
quality was still recognized in the 19th century, when Alexandre
Dumas wrote. They can on certain
occassions, make women more tender and men more lovable. Up to the beginning of
the 18th century these origin was shrouded in mystery: since, daring
stations, flames leap from the humid vapours and dark clouds emit deafening noises, I s it
surprising that lightning when it strike
the ground, gives rise to truffles, which do not resemble plants?, asked
plutarch. In the Middle Ages, when they were
looked upon as a manifestation of the devil, they fell into oblivion.
Having returned to popularity during the
Renaissace, they subsequently suffered a further edipse, but came back into favour under Louis
XIV and have reigned suprem since then.
La Varenne recommended ragout of dried or fresh truffles as an entrée
washed, cooked in wine, seasoned with salt and pepper and served on a napkin or
in a dish garnished with flowers. In 1711, Claude Joseph Geofroy, a French
Botanist, published a paper
entitlled Vegatation de la truffe, which
definitively classified., the trufle among the mushrooms.
The practice
of using muzzled pigs to seek out
truffes was common in the 17th century; in 1705 Lemery
wrote. There are dogs which can detec
them as well as pigs. Some peasants, in areas where truffles are found,
have taught themselves through long experience to recognize the places where
they are hidden. Nowadays, the many varieties of truffles are always gathered
with the assistance of an animal (pig or dog) that can detect their presence in
same cases, the movement of a fly may reveal that truffles are nearby.
With the animal on a leash, the ‘digger’
closely follows its footsteps and unearths the truffles as soon as the animal
begins to rout in the ground ‘he then carefully
replaces the clods of earth so that
no traces remain - the other truffles
must be left to mature and the curiosity of potential poachers must not
be aroused. Truffle cultivation remains essentially empirical and small-scale
truffles are neither sown nor
planted. They spring up spontaneously when the fungal
spouses or mycclia encounter the rootlets of an oak tree (or another sysmbolic species ) and from a mycorrhiza,
which takes its nutrients from the
three, the truffle itself is the fruiting body of the fungus and does not
appear to be connected by any filaments
tot the mycorrhiza.
§ Varieties of
truffles The varieties of truffles, 32
of which are found in Europe. The most highly esteemed is the black truffle of
Pengord, which matures after the fist frosts; it has black flesh streaked with whitish veins and
gives off and strong aroma. In fact, it
mainly comes from Tricastin, Vaucuse, Lot, Quercy and Gard, but it retains the
prestigious appellation which established its reputation (it is also found in Piedmont, Tuscany and
Aragon), the truffe d’ele, or triffe de Saint-jean, dark brown and
white-veined, the grey truffle of Champagne and
Brugundy, and the truffles of Alsace and Vatuclose, brown with black
veins, have less of an aroma, like the
terfez (the show white truffle, which grows in North Africa, in the Atlas
mouns).
The white truffle of
Piedmont enjoys a measured of popularity. It has a delicate aroma,
especially marked in the truffle of the
Alba region, and is isn aseason from October to December. In cookery, it
is served with capon, val and sometiems
langousie. It is alos eaten cooked in Asi, sprinkled with
Parmsan cheese, and seasoned with lemon vinaigrette. A sauce made with Piedmont
truffles. Butter, cream garlic and anchovy
is poured over spaghette or vegetables served cold. The truffle is also used raw grated or cut
into thin strips (with a coupe-truffle ,a
special utensil), as a garnish for grilled meat, chicken agnolotti or
risotto.
Truffles in
cookery A good black truffle must be
well rounded and in a single piece. It is
not at its best until ripe which prompted grimod de la Reyniere to say ;truffles are only really
good after Christmas… So let us allow ignorant tops, headless gourmands and
inexperienced palates the petty triumph of eating the first truffles.
Although its use in cookery is more restrained than in the
past, because of its rarity and high
price the prestige of the truffle
remains intact and the superlatives attributed to it bear witness to its almost mythical quality: ‘diamond of cookery’
(brillat-Savarin), ‘fairy apple’ (George Sand), ‘black queen’ (Emile Goudau),
‘gem of poor lands’ (Colette), ‘fragrant
nugget’ (J. de Coquet), ‘black pearl’
(Fulbert Dumonteil) and ‘holy of holies for the gourmet’ (Alexandre Dumas). Regardign their cost, J-L. Vudoyer is said to
have observed: ‘There are two types
of people who eat truffles: those who think truffles are good because they are dear and those who
know they are dear because they are
good.’
Truffles are eaten raw or cooked, cut into strips or slices,
diced or shredded, in the form of juice, fumet or essence, or simply for their
fragrance. ‘when you feel like
eating boiled eggs, if you have some truffles in the house, put them in
a basket with the eggs and the next day
ou will have the best boiled eggs
you have ever tasted in our gastronomic
life’ (M’des Ombiaux). Truffles occur, frequently associated with
foie grass, in all recipes called game, meat, poultry, pate, forcemeat, black
puddings (blood sausages0, egg dishes), egg dishes and salads. They also
feature in various sauces (diplomat, financiere, Joinville, regence and rich)’
and garnishes (banquiere, Belle-Helen, Berry, cardinal, Chambord, Demidof, favorite,
Frascati, Godard, Loret, Lucullus, reforme and Rohan). Other prestigious dishes
including truffles are fillet of beef
Prince Albert; timbale Talleyrand; chicken a
la d’Albufera, demi-euil and Edwar VII; fillets of sole a l’imperiate and Renaissance; lobser
with victoria suace; and tournedos Rossiri.
However, as Colette says, ‘You pay its weight in gold for it,
then in most cases you put it to some paltry use. You smear it with foie gras, you bury it in poultry overloaded with fat, you drop it up
and down it in brown sauce, you mix it with vegetables covered in mayonnaise.…
to hell with thin slices, strips, trimmings and peelings of
trufflest. It s not possible to like them for themselves? Indeed, the
true connoisseur enjoys truffles whole and fresh either raw, with butter
or salad, or cooked (in embers, braised with white wine or champagne or in a puff—pastry case).
Colette also gives us a delicious recipe: “Steep in good very dry white wine (keep your
champagne for banguets; the truffle does
very well without it), lightly seasoned
with salt and pepper. Cook in a covered
black cocotte. For 25 minutes if dances in the boiling liquid with 20 or so
lardons - like Trittons playing around a
black Amphitrite - which give substance to the cooking juices. No other spices whatever1 and to hell with the pressed napkins, tasting
and smelling of chlorine, the final bed of the
cooked truffle! Your truffles
should come to the table in their court-bouillon. Take a geneours helping the truffle whets the
appetite and assists the digestion.
Canning Truffles can be bought in cans, peeled or
scrubbed, ripe and whole. They are graded sur choix (with from flesh black and
of a uniform size and colour), extra (with firm flesh, more or less black and
slightly irregular in size), premier choix (with more or less firm flesh,
sometimes light in colour, of irregular size and possibly with abrasions). They
are also canned in pieces, at least 5 mm 91/4 in) thick dark in colour,
with up to 2% impurities, peelings, of
variable colour, with 20% cracks at most
and up to 3% impurities, and fragments, with up to 5% impurities.
§
Truffle products truffle-flavoured oils,
vinegars, pastes and sauces are available.
The oils and vinegars are useful an provide a comparatively inexpensive
way of brining the flavour of truffles to pasta, sauces and similar dishes.
Its is a good idea to check the list of
ingredients on pots of paste and sauces
as they may include flavour enhancers and a large proportion of seasoning, that
can limit their use in some recipes.
RECIPES
Ragout of truffles
Peel 8 fresh 40 g (1 ½
oz) truffles, cut into quarters, and seasoned
wit salt and pepper. Add 100 ml
94 fl oz 7 tablespoons) dry Banyuls and marinate for 20 minutes at room temperature.
Reduce by half 200 fl oz, ¼ cup) good fullbodied red wine in a
flameproof casseole, lightly rubbed with
garlic. Blend in 1 teaspoon flour mixed
with 2 teaspoons butter, bring to the boil, then add the truffles and the marinade.
Cover with foil and put on the lid, brining the edges of the
foil over the top; cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4 ) for 10
minutes.
Cut some stale bread into 3-4 cm 91 ½ in) crouttons, dry them
slightly in the oven, then rub with garlic and spread the soft side with goose or
duck fat. Serve the ragout in its
casserole, with the courtons in a separate dish.
Sauté of Piedmont truffles
White or black truffles
may be used for this recipe, which can be prepared at table as follows. Finely
slice the trufles. Put in a sliver dish a few tablespoons of olive oil or butter
and some good meat glaze, the size of an egg, cut into small pieces. Place
the truffles on top with little salt, white pepper and grated nutmeg. Sprinkle with a few tablespoons of oil or a
few pieces of fine butter. The silver dish, covered with its lid, is placed on
a spirit heater in front of the hot. Who frequently stirs the truffles with a spoon, replacing the lid of the dish
each time. About 8 minutes’ cooking
should be sufficient. The host then adds
the juice of a lemon and serves his or her guests.
Truffle ice cream
Boil 3 large
well-scrubbed truffles in 1 litre (1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3 cups) milk for about 1
hour. In the meantime, whisk 8 egg yolks with 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) sugar. Drain, dry and trim the truffles. Pour the
milk over the sugar and egg mixture to
make a custard; cook until it forms ribbons when the spoons is lifted, then add
the chopped truffle trimmings. Allow to cool, then leave to set in an
ice-cream maker. Cut the truffles into juilienne strips. Fill tulip glasses with alternate layers of ice cream and truffle, finishing
with a decoration of julienne strips. This ice cream is served as a dessert.
Trauffle salad
Clean some raw truffles
and slice finely or cut into julienne strips. Make a vinaigrette with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and lemon juice, but without
aromatic herbs. (when fresh truffles are
not available, preserved truffles can be used.)
The truffles may be mixed with sliced boiled potatoes
(demi-dueil salad) or sliced artichoke
hearts (imperatrice salad).
Truffle sauce
Cook a very black fresh
truffle in a mixture of half meat stock, with a little tomato puree (paste),
for 10 minutes. drain and cut into julienne strips. Cover the pan tightly and
reduce the liquid to a few teaspoonfuls, then add 2 egg yolks and the julienne. Thickens with 200 g ( 7 oz, ¾ cup)
clarified butter, as for a bearnaise sauce. Season with salt and pepper.
This sauce is served with poached fish, white meats and
Lauris asparagus.
Truffles for garnishes
Depending on the dish
to be garnished, fresh raw truffles are peeled, then cut into strips or dice of
varying size, or into quarters, or shaped like olives. Cook gently in butter
for a few minutes only, so as into to
impair their flavour or texture. Add a
few tablespoons of dessert wine and keep hot, but do not boil.
Sterilized truffles or truffles in goose fat, which have
already been cooked, need only be heated wit the dish that they are to
accompany.
Truffle tourte a la
perigourdine
Line as pie dish, 4-5
cm (1 ½-2 in) deep, with lining pastry and place on a baking sheet. Arrange on
the bottom a layer of uncooked toie gras cut into large dice, seasoned with
salt and pepper and sprinkled with ‘four
spices’ and Cognac, covering the pastry to within 1 cm (1/2 in) of the edge.
Top with scrubbed and peeled whole
truffles, seasoned with salt and pepper and sprinkled with ‘four spices’
and Cognac. Place small slices of foie gras, seasoned with salt and pepper, on the truffles. Cover
with a thin layer of pastry and seal the
edges. Garnish the top with cut-out shapes of pastry and place a funnel in the
centre. Brush with egg and bake in a preheated oven at
200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 40-45 minutes. Pour through the funnel a few
tablespoons of reduced dei-glace sauce,
flavoured with Madeira and truffle
essence. The tourte is served hot or cold.
TRUSS To thread one or
two pieces of trussing twine through the body of a poultry or game bird
with a trussing needle to hold the legs and wings in place during
cooking. This is done after dressing the
bird (that is, when it has been plucked, cleaned trimmed and singed); if the bird is to be braised, poached or fried whole
(rather than roasted), the legs are
tucked under the skin before trussing.
A well-trussed bird sits better on its roasting or cooking
dish. It is easier to baste and turn and easier to cook and prepare, especially
if it is to be served whole. It is always
untied after cooking so that the parts which are protected by the legs
can be checked to see that they are
properly cooked.
TRUSSING NEEDLE A very
large needle, usually of stainless steel,
15-30 cm 96-12 in) long and 1-3 mm 9about 1/8 in) in diameter, pointed
at once end and having an eye at the other.
It is used to pass one or two strings of thread through the body of
a chicken or game bird in order to keep
the legs and wings in place or for
sewing up stuffed boned meat. trussing
needles are often sold in a case containing an assortment of needles of
different sizes.
TSARINE, A LA a term that describes poached poultry garnished with olive-shaped pieces of
cucumber in cream, or poached fish
(sole or brill) garnished with cucumber cooked in butter and coated with Mornay
sauce seasoned with paprika. The
expression also refers to various dishes directly inspired by classic Russian a
cookery. Cream of hazel grouse and celery, garnished with a juienne of celery;
poached eggs attranged on tartlets filed with
hazel groups puree, coated with cream and mush room sauce,, soft roes
poached in white and garnished with
chopped vesiga and caviar.
TUILE A crisp thin
biscuit (cookie), so named as it was
considered to resemble the shape of a curved tile. The basic mixture consists
of sugar, shredded (slivered) or ground almonds, eggs and flour, sometimes with added butter and flavoured with vanilla
and orange. This is spread on to a baking sheet. The tuile acquires its characteristic shape by
being laid over a rolling pin while
still hot, then left to set until cool and crisp. Flat round tuiles (called
mignons) are stuck together in pairs with meringue, then dried in the oven.
RECIPE
Tuiles
Whisk together 100 g (4
oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 1 teaspoons vanilla sugar, 75 g (3 oz. ¾
cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, 2 eggs and a small pinch of salt. Blend in 25 g 91 oz. 2 tablespoons) melted butter
and 75 g 93 oz. ¾ cup) shredded (silvered) almonds (optional). Using a
teaspoon, place small quantities of the
mixture, well apart from one another, on a buttered baking sheet. Spread them
out slightly with the back of a fork dipped in cold water. Bake in a preheated
oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) for about 4 minutes – the edges of the tuilets
should be golden brown, the centres remaining
white. Take out of the oven, remove from the backing sheet and bend
them, while still hot, over a rolling
pin or a very clean bottle. Leave to cool.
TULIP light biscuit
(cookie) made of butter, icing (confectioner’s) sugar, flour and egg
white. The mixture is spread on greased baking sheets.
Well part in circles, using a spoon or a
palette knife (spatula). The mixture
spreads during cooking to make thin biscuits. The hot, soft biscuits can
be shaped when first removed from the
oven by putting then in individual brioche moulds. The mixture
quickly becomes firm and scrip as it cools and sets. They are served cold and crisp, folled with
Chantilly cream, fruit or ice cream. The biscuits should be stored in an airtight container to prevent them
from softening. They should be filled
shortly before being served, otherwise they become soft. The biscuits can be rolled around wooden spoon handles,
rolling pins or cream horn tins (pans) to make different shapes.
TUNA Thunnus thynus. A good source of the omega-3
fish oils so highly valued by modern nutritionists, tuna was also highly
appreciated in ancient times. The Phoenicians used to salt and smoke it.
Archestrattus recommended the great tuna
of Samos and that of Sicily, but he said, if one day you go to Hippone, a town in illustrious Italy (in North
Africa), the tuna there are better than
all the rest, ‘When using the female tuna,
he recommended cutting the tail
into pieces, roasting it, sprinkling it was salt and oil and pickling it in a strong brine. In the
Middle Ages, pickled tuna was appreciated particularly to nine (cut up, roasted
or fried in olive oil, then salte and
strongly spiced). In the time of Louis XIV, the
grocers still traded in pickled tuna. From the 19th century, tuna fishing gradually extended to
the Atlantic
Tuna are migratory fish which travel in dense shoals. As early as the 2nd century BC,
the Greeks knew of their migratory habits, and ancient fishing methods have
been practised for a long time in Sicily
and the former Yuogslavia. In Provence, at the end of the 19th
century, the approach of shoals of tuna
was still heralded by lookouts blowing their
horns. At the outbreak of World
War I, fishing for blufin tuna was still
on a small scale and restricted to the
Mediterranean, whereas fishing for albacore, which ad been modernized around
1850, was thriving in the Bay of Biscay.
The first boat designed for fishing tuna for the canning industry was built in
1906. Around 1930, a few ship owners in Saint-Jean-de-Luz fitted their boats with refrigerated holds. Today tuna
fishing is industrialized and scientific locating the migrating shoals by
helicopter or even satellite in the final decades of the 20th
century, the fishing methods of certain
countries causes controversy because it was found that other marine like, including dolphins, were perishing alongside the
tuna. Such was the outcry that many
manufacturers now label their cans ‘dolphin friendly’
§
Types of tuna Five species of tuna are now
fished the albacore, yellowfin tuna,
bluefin tuna, blackfin tuna, blackfin
tuna and skipajack, which represents the third grade of canned tuna fond in
supermarkets.
§
ALCABORA OR WHITE TUNA Called germon or thou
blanc in France. This is widely used for canning. Formerly much more abundant than it is today, it weighs 10-30 kg (22 – 66 lb) and is fished from the Azones to Ireland. Its white flesh , slightly rose-tinted and
very lastly, resembles veal and is cooked in a
similar way. Formerly, it was nicknamed veal of the Carthusians, as it eoulc be eaten on days of absence. Breton germon is sold fresh from the end of Mayto the beginning of October. It is sliced and
braised (after marinating) or brilled (broiled).
§
YELLOWFIN TUNA Caled albacorte in France, this
is biger and heavier than te albacone, up to 2.5 m (8 ft) long and 250 g (550 lb) in weight: it has
a steel blue back, greyis sides and a
silvery belly (like the albacore), but
its fins are yellow and its flesh pale
pink. It is fished practically throughout the
year in a tropical and equatorial waters. Rarely sold fresh, it is widely used by the
canning industry.
§
BLUEFIN TUNA Fished in the Mediterranean, the
Bay of Biscay, and a few tropical seas.
In Australia, it is known as the
southern bluefin to distinguish it from the northern variety. When it is young, it s belly has green
stripes and its flesh is white. The flesh of
adult fish is dark red. The average weight of a bluefin tuna is 100-125 kg (220-275 lb), but
some very old fish are more than 3.5 m
(11 ½ lb.) long and weight 700 kg (1545
lb). the bluefin tuna is almost always sold fresh. In France it is prepare by
Basque, Sicilian or Provencal cooling methods
out into slices, marinate, then braised or cooked en daube, rather than grilled.
The flesh of the bluefin tuna is best when it has been kept for about
eight days by that time it is shiny and bright red, with a more pronounced
taste than that of albcore. When its
colour is verging on light brown, the
fish has gone bad.
§
BLACKFIN TUNA Called bigeye in this United
States, this is caught in the same areas as the yellowfin. It
does not exceed 100 kg (220 lb.) and is usually eaten fresh, but it does
not have the flavour of albacore.
§
SKIPJACK This is a bonito. Its flesh is as good
as that of the bleufin tuna but less firm.
It is used mostly in caning for tuna-based preparations.
Several other resemble
tuna and prepared in similar ways the
pelamide (pelmid or bonito) which is cooked in steaks like albacore but does
not have its quality and taste; meliva
(frigale mackerel), a small fish found in warm seas, with a dark blue back and
often smoked; thoutine (little tunny), a bonito
with a speckled belly and brown flash, used in canning.
Preserved tuna Tuna is
consumed in a wide range of preserved from, which are used to fill sandwiches,
and make mixed salads,; stuffed vegetables including avocados, (bell) peppers
and tomatoes; and various hors d’oeuvre.
Tuna is available canned in water, bring, various oils or
sauces. Canned tuna is presented either
whole (the slab is fact composed
of pieces tightly packed together), in
small fragments or in fillets (long strips taken from the belly of the fish).
Cans labelled ‘tunny’ or ‘tuna fish’ almost always contain
tropical tuna (yellowish, skipjack or blackfin). Those labeled ‘albacore’, white tuna’ or ‘germon’ must contain that variety, which is
more expensive and of better quality.
RECIPES
Grilled tuna
Mix some olive with
lemon juice, salt, pepper, a little cayenne pepper, some finely chopped parsley
and, if desired, a crushed garlic clove.
Marinate some steaks of white
tuna (albacore) 4-5 cm (1 ½-2 in) thick in this mixture for at least 30
minutes. grill (broil) the drained steaks under a low heat for 10 minutes on
each side. Serve with a flavoured butter -
sweet (bell) pepper or anchovy.
Tuna en dabe a la
provencale
Stud a slice of bluefin
tuna with anchoyv filelts. Marinate in olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper
for 1 hours.
Brown the fish in olive oil in a flamproof casserole,
remove and set aside. Add 1 chopped onion and cook for 10 minutes,
until softened but not browned. Stir in 2 large peeled, seeded and crushed
tomatoes, a small crushed garlic clove and a bouquet garni. Replace the tuna,
cover and cook for 15 minutes. pour in
150 ml (1/4 pint. 2/3 cup) white wine and Finnish cooking in the oven, basting
often, for 40minutes. drain the fish and place on a serving dish. Add the concentrated cooking liquor and serve with a little timbale of ratatouille
and a fan of sautéed courgette 9zucchini0.
Tuna rouelle with
spices and carrots
Brown a 1 kg (2 ¼ lb)
tuna rouelle in butter in a flameproof casserole. Surround it with 6
peeled tomatoes, cut into quarters, 10
small, peeled whole onions and 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) baby carrots, peeled and sliced. Mix with 500 ml (17 fl. oz. 2 cups)
chicken stock and season with 2 teaspoons fresh rot ginger, a pinch of grated
nutmeg, ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon, 4 saffron
strands, ½ teaspoon ground cumin
and salt. Cover, bring to the boil and simmer for 1 hour. Serve very hot.
TURBAN A word used to
describe certain foods arranged in a
circle on the dish; fillets of fish, crown of lamb, for example. The term also
refers to a preparation of forcemeat or a salpicon, cooked in a ring mould turban
of fish, shellfish, poultry, rice or
game; these are generally served as a hot or cold entrée, coated with
sauce. Mousses and ice creams are also
moulded in a turban.
RECIPES
Iced turban
Pour into a ring mould
some vanilla ice cream mixed with a salpicon of crystallized 9candied) fruits
steeped in rum. Freeze until set. Turn out of the mould on to a layer of nougatine and fill the
centre with vanilla-flavoured Chantilly
cream.
Turban of poultry
Line a buttered
ring mould with thin slices of raw
poultry cut from the breast, so that the
slices slightly overhang both
edges. Mask with a thin layer of poultry
forcemeat, then fill the moulds
with a salpicon of cooked poultry, mixed with truffle and mushrooms,
and bound with allemande sauce. Covered
with 2 thin layer of forcemeat and fold the
overlapping slices over the top.
Cook in a bain marie in a preheated oven at 180°C 9350°F, gas 4 0 for about 40
minutes, then leave to stand for 10
minutes before turning out of the mould
on to a round dish. Fill the centre of the turban with braised slices of calves’
sweetbreads and sautéed morels. Coat
with supreme sauce.
TURBIGO A dish
consistign of lamb’s kidneys cut in
half, sautéed , garnished with grilled
(broiled) chipolatas and sautéed
mushrooms and covered wit a sauce made from the cooking juices mixed with white wine and tomato-flavoured
demi-glace sauce. This recipe, named after the Lombardy town where the French
won two victories over the Austrians
under the First and second Empire, dates
back to an era when restaurateurs and cooks named their creations after
military victories or generals.
RECIPE
Lamb’s kidneys Turbigo
Cut the kidney’s in
half; remove the thin skin that
surrounds them and the white central parts. Season with salt and pepper and fry briskly in
butter-arrange them in a circle on a round dish, possibly on a bed of croutons
browned in butter, and keep hot.
Cook some small button mushrooms in the butter used to cook the
kidneys and grill (broil) as many small chipolatas as there kidney halves. Arrange the chipolatas between the kidney
halves and place the mushrooms in the centre.
Mix the cooking juices with white
wine and tomato-flavoured demi-glace sauce, reduce and pour over the kidneys.
TURBOT A flatfish
living on the sandy pebbly beds of the Atlantic (called berdonneau or triboulet in France) and the Mediterranian (nicknamed
rombu or clavelat). It is one of the best fish.
Both eys are on one side of its
body, which is brownish, dotted with black and white marks. The blind side
is sometimes pigmented as well, which is unusual with
flatfish. It s lozenge-shaped body, which is broader than it is long and made
round by its fins, has led to the intention of a special turbot kettle
9turbotteire). Its tough skin lacks visible scales but is covered with small
bony tubercles (hence it name, which derives from the Scandinavian word for a
thron).
Highly esteemed since ancient time and nicknamed roi du creme
9kign of Lent) for centuries, turbo has been prepared in the most sumptuous
ways. For Napoleon, laguipiere created
tubort a L’imperiale (cut into slices, poached in milk, arranged with crayfish
tails and coated with a truffle sauced). The
way in which it was cut up at
table, with a silver fish slice, was formerly governed by price rules.
Turbot is sold whole and
gutted (cleaned) or in chunks depending on its, size. Most fish mesure 40-50 cm
(16-20 inc) and weigh between 2 and 4 kg. (4 ½ and 9 lb.), although some, which
re not necessarily less delicate, reach 90 cm 93 ft) and 20 kg (44 lb.) Chicken
turbot 9burbolish ) is the name given to smell turbot weighing 1-15 kg (2 ¼-3 ¼
lb), which are often cheaper than large turbot, although they have the same qualities. There is always a
large amount of waste about 50% of the weight (slightly less for the biggest
fish).
Its white firm flaky flesh, which is particularly delicate and
tasty, makes turbot an expensive fish. Whether if it poached (in milk, to
ensure that its flesh remains white), braised grilled
(broiled) or pot-roasted, its cooking
must be carefully controlled. It is a
cooked for too long , the flesh loses
its flavour and texture . all recipes for brill and John Dory are
suitable for whole turbot, and all recipes for fillet of sole are suitable for fillets of turbots.
As in the past, the great chefs give turbot pride of place in
their creations. Some classic
preparations for trubot are Duglere, a l’aminal, Bercy, a ala
comcalaise. Saint-Malo and Victoria, while cold dishes include turbot in scallop shells or with
mayonnaise, green sauce, tartare, remoulade or gribiche sauce in turbot a la
pelerine, created by Prosper Montagne, the fish a sprinkled with melted
butter and cooked on a baking
sheet lined with onion lightly cooked in butter, coated with the cooking juices
mixed with white wine, cream and butter,
then glazed in the oven and garnished
with fried scallops arranged en buisson.
Such a large fish is rarely deep-fried, but Brillat-Savarin recommended this
method to his cook La Palnche: ‘You tried may helish idea
and you were the first to have the glory of offering the startled world a huge
fried turbot. That day, there was a great jubliation among the lucky guests.
Notable creations of 20th-century
chefs include turbot braised in vernmuoth (Fernand Point0 ; supreme de turbot de ligne, studded with anchovies,
roasted with parsley and sleeped in a
champagne sauce (Alain Chapel); blanc de turbolin with sorrel londue (rogter
Verge); lalnguette of turbot (André Guillot), chicken turbot with grapes and tea (Alain senderens),
and chicken turbot studded with
anchovies and steamed with saffron
(Michael Guerard). But many gastronomes consider that turbot should simply be grilled or
poached on its own.
RECIPES
Escalopes of turbot
with buttered leeks
Slices some fillets of turbot into escalopes and make a
fume with the trimmings. Seal the escalopes in
butter on both sides, then cover
with the fummet. Simmer for 5 minutes.
drain the fish. Mix the cooking juics
with an equal maount of double (heavy) cream. Arrange the escalopes on a hot
dish and pour over the sauce. Serve with an embeurree of leeks; cook 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) shredded white
parts of leeks in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F, gas 5 ) with 200 g (7 oz. 1
cup) butter and 175 ml 96 fl. oz. ¾ cup)
water, covered, for 20 minutes; season with salt and pepper.
Fillets of turbot with
leek fondue and beef marrow
Soften some shredded
leeks with a knob of butter for 20
minutes, over a very low heat. Season with
salt and pepper. Add some crème
fraiche and cook for a further 5 minutes, then set aside. Stream the
turbot for 8 minutes. reduce for 1 minutes half a shallot (finely
chopped) in 100 ml (4 fl. oz. 7 tablespoons) red wine. add 2 tablespoons meat glaze. Reduce, then remove from the heat and thicken
with 25 g (1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter cut into small pieces. Line the plates with this sauce, put the fillets of turbot on top, the surround with
the leek fondue, alternating with a concassee of tomatoes (2 very ripe
tomatoes, peeled, seeded, diced and lightly cooked in a little butter with a
chopped shallot). Finish off with slices
of beef marrow, soaked in cold water for
2-3 hours, then poached for 3 minutes in boiling water. Garnish with parsley.
Turbot en papillote
with crispy vegetables and champagne sauce.
Fillet a 1.5 kg (3 ¼
lb.) turbot and cut into 12 escalopes of equal thickness. Chili.
Meanwhile, prepare a fish stock with the bones. Peel and cut 2 medium-sized carrots, 1 celery heart, 1
small turnip and the white part of leek
into a coarse julenne. Cut 75 g 9 3 oz) green beans in half. Cook
the vegetables for 3 minutes in the fish stock with 20 g 93/4 oz. 1 ½ tablespoons) butter. Season when almost cooked. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid. Sweat 2
peeled and chopped shallots in 2 teaspoons butter. Deglaze with 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) brut
champagne and the reserved cooking liquid.
Reduce by half.
Fold 2 sheets of foil 30 x 60 cm 912 x 24 in0 in half to make 2
double-thick squares. Cut these into
semi-circles, leaving the folded edge uncut. Place 6 fish escalopes,
lightly seasoned with salt, pepper and
cayenne pepper, on one half of each foil semi-circle. Put the vegetables on the fish and fold the other half of foil over. Seal the edges.
Add 200 ml (7 fl oz. ¾
cup) crème fraiche to the champagne
reduction and bring to the broil, then
cook for a few seconds, whisk in
125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter, cut into
small pieces. Cook the papillotes in a preheated oven at 220°C
(425°F, gas 7) for 7 minutes. take out of the oven and open the parcels in
front of the guests. Pour in a little
on each plate and place 2
escalopes on top.
Turbot with morels.
For 5 or 6 servings.
Soak 300 g (11oz) dried morels in plenty of water (or use fresh morels when in season). Remove
the stalks and wash thoroughly. Cook in
salted water, strain, squeeze gently and
brown in a saucepan, adding 2 finely chopped shallots at the last moment. Add 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) double (heavy)
cream and bring to the boil. Adjust the seasoning and slimmer for about 10
minutes.
Fillet, skin and trim a
3-4 kg (6 ½ - 9 lb) turbot and cut into 100 g (4 oz) escalopes. Season with salt and pepper on both
sides. Garnish half the escalopes with small pilles of morels and
cover with the remaining escalopes. Cook in a frying pan with a little butter,
then in a preheated oven at 180° (350°F, gas 4) for about 10 minutes. arrange in a dish and coat with
Americaine sauce. Put a medallion of lobster on each escalope
TURBOT KETTLE A square or diamond-shaped fish kettle, provided with a grid with
handles and a lid. Made of smooth or
hummered aluminum , copper, tin-plated iron or stainless steel, the turbot
kettle is designed for cooking large whole flatish turbot brill and skate.
TURNOIS A cake that
does not acquire cooking made from chestnut puree, sugar, butter and
grated chocolate and flavoured with kirsch.
The puree is poured into a buttered square mould lined
with greaseproof (wax) paper at the bottom, then pressed down in firmly
and left to cool for several hours. The
cake is then turned out of the mould cut
into slices and served.
The name turnois (or turin) is also given to a square petit four made of sweet pastry,
garnished with chestnut puree flavoured with kirsch, then spread with apricot syrup and decorated with chopped pistachios.
TURKEY A fermyard bird raised for its delicate
flesh. The size of the bird will very according to its variety and breeding. Although the
traditional large birds are still
available, particularly at festive seasons, medium sized and small birds have
been developed which are suitable for smaller gathering all the year. Large turkeys are still produce for cutting
up into joints and for charcuterie. The
flesh of turkey cocks is drier and its advisable to lard it with bacon strips. The word
dindonnean (meaning young turkey) is often used on French menus.
The turkey was called ‘Indian chicken’ by the Spanish
conquerors, who thought they were still in
the Indies when they discovered it in Mexico (hence the French name - a
contraction of poule d’Indes). It first
appeared on a French table in 1570, at the marriage feast of Charles IX, but it
was not commonly used in cooking until about 1630. In England, it eventually replaced the Christmas goose and
is still the main part of the traditional Christmas meal, stuffed and served
with bread sauce, cranberry jelly and a variety of accompaniments. The turkey
still lives in the wild in the United States and Mexico, but it was already
domesticated in Mexico at the time of
the Aztecs, prepared with a sauce containing chocolate, it constitutes
the national dish (mole poblano de guajolote). In the Unites States, turkey is
the traditional dish on Thanksgiving Day, since the arrival of the first
colonists who were saved from famine by
the wild turkey. It is stuffed with corn bread, roasted and served with
chestnuts and orange and cranberry sauce.
Brillant-Savarin, who proclaimed himself a ‘dindonophile
(turkey-lover), declined a long paragraph in The Sixth Medillation to the
‘Indian chicken’ The turkey appeared in
Europe towards the end of the 17th century, it was imported by
the Jesuits, who raised a large number
of them, particularly in a farm they owned near Bourges, it was from there
that they gradually spread over the whole of France. This is why the colloquial name for a turkey is still
Jesuit in many places.’
§
Selecting
and preparing turkey A good turkey should be young, plump and
short-necked, with a supple windpipe. If
the bird is old, its feet are reddish and scally the sinews must be drawn from the legs (it is best to ask the butcher
do this). The bird may be easier to
carve (if the wishbone is removed. Usually
the entire breast is barded to that the
flesh is protected from drying out
during cooking.
§
Apart from dishes using turkey joints or
giblets, turkey is usually stuffed and roasted. However, it is sometimes
braised or cooked in a ragout (like goose) and garnished a la bourgeoise or a
la chippolatta. Turkey meat may also be grilled (broiled), cooked in
a fricassee like chicken, or casseroles and garnished with such vegetables as
aborigines (eggplants), artichokes, mushrooms, small onions or browned potatoes. Skinned and boned turkey meat is sold cut
into escalopes, strips or dice, or minced
(ground) for use in many types of recipes.
RECIPES
Braised turkey legs
This recipe uses the
legs of young turkeys; the wings or supreme can be used for another dish. Bone the legs, fill with a suitable poultry stuffing,
them roll them into small ballotines. Braise in white or brown stock, then drain and glaze in the oven.
Arrange on a serving dish and coat with the
cooking stock. Serve with a
vegetable puree, braised vegetables (such as carrots or celery), rice or
creamed potatoes.
Daube of turkey a la
bourgeoise
This dish is made with a very tender turkey hen,
rather than a young turkey cook. Braise
the bird in a suitable brown
stock; when three-quarters cooked,
drain. Strain the braising
stock. Replace the bird in
the braising pan and surround, with a bourgeoise garnish. Add
the strained braising stock, cover the pan and finished cooking over a
gentle heat.
Roast turkey
Season and truss a
small turkey and hard the breast and back with bacon. Roast either on a spit,
allowing 20 minutes per 450 g (1 lb.), or in a preheated oven, allowing 25
minutes per 450 g (1 lb) at 160 °C(325°F, gas 3 ). Remove the bacon before the
bird is completely cooked so that it
browns. Serve with the skimmed strained cooking juices and
garnish with watercress.
Roast turkey stuffed
with chestnuts
Scald and peel 1 kg ( 2
¼ lb) chestnuts. Half-cook them in stock, drain and wrap in a large piece of
soaked pig’s caul, if available. Enclose
them in the boned turkey, tie it up neatly and roast in the usual way.
Roast turkey stuffed
with dessert apples
Season the turkey and,
if desired, insert some slices of truffle between the skin and the flesh. Remove the
gall bladder from the liver and pound the liver with a small can of goose foie gras mousse, 40 g (1
½ oz. 3 tablespoons) butter and 2 tablespoons port. Peel and remove the seeds
from 800 g (1 ¾ lb0 dessert (eating) apples, cut them into thick slices,
and brown them ina frying pan in 75 g 93 oz. 6
tablespoons) butter. Mix half the apples with the liver mixture and use to
stuff the turkey. Keep the remaining
apples hot. Place a very thin strip of bacon on the breast on a the back of the bird and tie up firmly.
Cook the turkey in a preheated oven at about 200°C (400°F, gas
6) for about 2 hours for a 3 kg (6 ½ lb.) bird. The bird is cooked if the
juices released when the skin is pricked are clear. Remove the bacon slices and
quickly brown the turkey breast, if necessary, in a very hot oven. Carve in the varieites Nantais and Croissy
are elongaged and white and are old in spring and summer. There is also a black variety, which may be elongated
or round.
Turnips should be firm and heavy with an unblemished smooth
shiny skin. Spring turnips are often sold complete with their leaves, which can
also be cooked (like spinach). Spring turnips must be used within a
short time of purchase, winter turnips, on the other hand, will keep for 2 months in a cool place.
Turnips should be peeled and washed just before they are
cooked, otherwise they will darken,; small new turnips are improved by blanching for 10 minutes
before further preparation to reduce
their very strong flavour. In essential
ingredient of pot-au-feu and beauty meat
soups, turnips can also be prepared in
the same way as carrots (glazed a l’anglaise, sautéed in butter or cooked with cream), or pureed, used in a
vegetable loaf or in a souffle. They
have the property of absorbing large quantities of fat, and for this reason they are traditionally served with
fatty meat such as mutton or duck.
RECIPES
Stffed turnips a la duxelles
Peel and hollow out
some medium-sized young turnips, cook them for 8 minutes in boiling
water, then drain and refresh in cold running water. Drain again and lightly sprinkle the hallows
s with salt. Cook the scooped-out flesh in butter and rub it through a sieve. Prepare a mushroom duxelles
(1 tablespoon per turnip), add the puree and fill the turnips with the mixture. Arrange the stuffed turnips in a buttered gratin
dish. Add a few tablespoons of beef or chicken stock, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and pour on some melted
butter. Cook slowly in a preheated oven
at 200°C 9400°F, gas 6); the cooking
time will depend on how tender the vegetables are - test
by pricking with a skewers.
Stuffed turnips a la
piemontaise
Cook as for stuffed
turnips a la duxelles, but use risotto for the stuffing. Sprinkle with grated
Parmesan cheese before browning in the oven
Stuffed turnips braised
in cider
Peel and blanch 575 g (1 ¼ lb) small round young
turnips. Slice off and reserve the tops, then scoop out a shallow hollow in each and cook the
scooped-our flesh in boiling salted water. When
soft, reduce to a puree in a
blender. Sauté the hollowed-out turnips and trips and tops in
equal quantities of olive oil and butter and cook until browned. Sprinkle with
salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, boil half bottle
of dry (hard) cider and reduce to half its original volume. Drain the turnips and tops well and add them
to the cider. Pour in a little
stock and braise in a preheated oven 190°C (375°F, gas 5) for 15
minutes. Drain them, reserving the cooking juices. Add the
puree liquid to thicken it, and adjust
the seasoning. Add 50 g (2 oz. ¼
cup) butter, beat the
mixture and keep hot.
Mix together 100 g (4
oz. ½ cup) sausagement, 25 g (1 oz. 2 tablespoons) a gratin forcemeats, some
basil, rosemary and thyme flowers, shape the mixture into balls and cooks in butter over a
low heart. Place one ball into reach
hallow turnip, adding the tops to form lids. Pour the sauce over the serve very
hot.
Turnips au gratin
Peel some turnings and
slice them into rounds. Blanch
them in boiling salted water,
drain and refresh under cold running water and braise in butter. Place the turnip rounds in a buttered gratin dish,
smooth the top and coat with Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown in a pre-heated
oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9).
TURNOVER A pastry in
the shape of a semicircle, made from a thinly rolled round
of puff pastry folded over a filling of stewed fruit, traditionally (but not necessarily) apples. Most are individual, but large turnovers,
using a simple shortcrust pastry (basic pic dough), may be prepared for several
people. All these pastries are eaten warm
or cold.
Turnover can also be savoury. They are usually small and served very hot, as an
hots d’oeuvre or entrée, with various fillings such as fish, poultry, game, ham
or mushrooms.
RECIPES
Preparing turnovers
Whether savoury or sweet, the method is the same roll
out some puff pastry to a thickness of
about 3 mm (1/8 in). Cut out circles
5-15 cm (2-6 in) in diameter. Place a
fairly dry filling on half of each circle, without going right up to the edge,
fold the free half back over the filled
half and join the two edges firmly,
pinching them to prevent the filling from oozing out during cooking. Decorate with lines made with the
top of a knife and glaze with egg yolk.
Savoury turnovers
Turnovers for light
entrees
Following the methods
for preparing turnovers, use any of the following savoury fillings.
§
A la lyannoise creamed pike with butter and crayfish tails,
truffle and Cognac.
§
A la Nanta Ragout of crayfish tails a la
nantue.
§
A la perigourdine Salpicion of foie gras and
truffle sprinkle with Cognac.
§
A la reine Puree of chicken mixed with diced
truffles and mushroom.s
Sweet Turnovers
Apple and prune turnovers
Soak 250 g (9 oz. 1 ¾
cups) stoned (pitted prunes in tepid water and 50 g (2 oz. 1/3 cup)
washed. currants in 4 tablespoons rum. Peel and thinly slice 4 good apples,
then place in a stewpan with 5 tablespoons water and 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) caster
(superfine) sugar. Leave to cook for 20 minutes, then blend and return to the
pan with the drained currants and 25 g
(1 oz. 2 tablespoons), butter; stir over a gentile heat to dry out. Put the drained prunes in another pan with
100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) weak tea, 50 g (2 oz. ¼ cup) sugar and the grated zest of a lemon; boil gently for 10
minutes, then blend and return to the pan to dry uncovered over a gentle heat.
Roll out
500 g (18 oz) puff pastry thinly on a
floured board. Cut out 8 rounds
using a cutter 15 cm (6 in) in diameter, and
elongate them slightly. British
over the edges of the rolled-out pastry with beateh egg and fill half of each round with stewed
apples and stewed prunes, without mixing
them. Fold over the pastry and join the edge together, tucking them over each
other and pressing down well. Arrange
the turnovers on a moistened baking sheet and
brush with beaten egg. Trace light diamond-shaped cuts in the
pastry. Bake in a preheated oven at 220°C 9425°F, gas 7) for about 25
minutes and serve them either warm, or cold and dusted with icing
(confectioner’) sugar.
TURNSPIT (ROASTING
JACK) A mechanism for rotating a roasting spit in from of a
heat source . the modern turnips is an
oven or barbecue accessory, usually operated by electricity.
In the Middle Ages, turnspits were operated by galopins
(urchins), young apprentice rotisseurs, who turned the handles of heavy spits
in front of glowing fires. Subsequently,
dogs were used to turn the spit by running inside a wheel sued to turn the spit by running inside a wheel. Self-turning spits appeared at the end of the 16th century;
Montaigne, in his Voyage en Italie, describes these appliances operating by
a spring or a system of weights
and counterweights. In the 18th century, when clockwork mechanisms were
perfected turnspit could function automatically for 1-2 hours, a bell sounded
when they needed to be reset. There also
spits operated by the heat of the
fireplace, which turned a bladed wheel. In some restaurants, there were giant
spit-roasters for cooking several dozen at the same time.
TURQUE, A LA a term that
describes various dishes
inspired by Oriental cookery, particularly rice pilaf, either arranged in a ring with a
garnish in the centre, or moulded in
darioles as an accompaniment to shirred
eggs, omelette or lamb, served with
sautéed aubergines (eggplants).
The term refers specifically to a dish of chicken livers,
sautéed with chopped onion and
tomato-flavoured demi glaxe sauce added; or aubergines, or sweet (bell) pepper,
stuffed with minced (ground) mutton, rice and duxelles, baked with
tomato-flavoured onion fondue. Vegetables stuffed a la turque can be used to garish pot roasted loin
or saddle of lamb.
RECIPES
Lamb noisettes a la
turque
Prepare some rice pilaf and sauté some diced
aubergine (eggplant) flesh in
oil. Fry the lamb noisettes in butter
and arrange in a serving dish; garnish with the aubergine and the rice pilaf mmoulded in darioles. Keep hot. Dilute the pan juices with tomato-flavoured
veal stock and pour over the noisettes.
Stuffed peppers a la
turque
Put some (bell) peppers
in a preheated oven at 230°C (450°F, gas
8) until the skin blisters and blackens,
so that they can be peeled easily. Cut
open at the stalk end and remove the seeds, then blanch in boiling water for 5
minutes. make a stuffing from two-birds
minced (ground) cooked mutton and one-third rice pilaf. Season with salt and pepper and add a little
chopped garlic and just enough reduced
tomato sauce to bind the stuffing. Fill the peppers a with this mixture, to
which some fairly dry mushroom duxelles can be added.
Peel, finely slice and lightly cook in oil enough onions to
cover the bottom of a flameproof casserole. Pack the stuffed peppers into the casserole,
add a few tablespoons of light tomato sauce and
cover. Bring to the boil on the
hob (stove top), then cook in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for
about 30 minutes.
TURRON also known as
touron, Confectionery of Spanish origin,
made from ground almonds, egg whites and sugar. Of various colours and flavours it can also
containpistachios, whole almonds, walmuts or dried fruit. There are numerous varieites, which are all southern specialities.
§
The Spanish
turron, also called jijona (from the name of
the town where it is a
speciality), is made from hony and
sugar, with walnuts, hazaelnuts, pine nuts, and sometime coriander and
cinnamon. The Alcante turron, a traditional Christmas sweetmeat, is more
crunch. Both are made in the form
of slabs, which are cut into slices.
§
The Catalan turron, which resembles the black nougat of Provence, contains hazelnuts but no nougat of Provence,
contains hazelnuts but no almonds.
§
The basque turron, made simply from almonds
paste, coloured red, takes the form of small balls similar to arbutus berries.
§
The bayonne tuorun is similar to almonds paste. It looks like a chequerboard, with squared of
different colours and flavours, with or
without almonds.
§
The honey touron of Gap, made from sugar and
honey, contains almonds and bazelnuts.
The name touvonis also given to a round petisfour ,
made from almonds paste, royal icing
(frosting), chopped pistachinos and orange zest.
RECIPE
Tourons
Pound 250g (9 oz. 2 cups)
blanched almonds with 2 egg whites; add
200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and knead the mixture on a marble
worktop. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons
icing (confectioner’s) sugar and roll out to a
thickness of 5 mm (1/4 in). mix 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) chopped pistachios
with 200 g (7 oz 1 cup) caster sugar and
the zest of half an orange, very finely chopped. Add 100 g (4 oz) royal
icing (frosting) and 2 whole eggs. Mix
well with a spatula. Spread this mixture evenly over the almond paste. Cut into circles or rings and arrange on a buttered and floured baking
sheet. Dry in a very cool oven.
TURSAN Wine from landes
in south-western France. It has been known since Gallo-Romand times is a best
known as a dry, white white wine, made form a local vine cattle the Barroque.
There are red and rose versions, the former
being fairly full-bodied.
They are mostly made from the
Tannat grape.
TURTLE a short-legged reptile, amphibious or
terrestrial, whose body is enclosed in a scaly catapace. There are several edible variables, but they
are increasingly rate and protected, so
their preparation for the table is chiefly a matter of quite small, used
to become common on the east coast and islands of tropical America.
Sought-after for its shell, it also provides highly esteemed meat and
eggs. The loggerhead, the largest turtle, is considered
to be leathery, with a taste of the sea.
The diamondback turtle or
terrapin, which lives in fresh water is
bred in the United States. Boiled in
salted water and boned, it is prepared according to local recipes in Maryland.
At the beginning of the 19th century in New York, a
popular entertainment was hard becoming
turtles imported live from the West Indies. West Indian cookery has the
greatest variety of dishes prepared from
turtle which provides excellent flesh, the head, legs tail, intestines and eggs
are also edible. In addition, its fat
provides very good oil. It is traditionally made into soup, doubes, fricassee,
stew and Colombo. Turtle steaks, marinated in vinegar. Oil and garlic, are cooked like beef and served
highly seasoned with pepper in Egypt,
turtle meat is prepared into a stew, with
onions and pomegranate juice. The flippers make a special braised dish,
served with a spicy sauce. In Europe, turtle
soup was, at once time, a
speciality this was British contribution
to classic French cookery Queen Victoria and Prince Albert were known to have
begun their Christmas dinner at Windsor
Castle in 1810 with turtle soup. It was being made in France as early as the 16th,
since, as stated by Declamare (quoted by
Franklin), the blood of turtles, even live turtles is cold. Therefore, the turtle is a true fish, and can
be eaten without qualm on days of abstinence.’
§
Mock turtle soup Mock turtle soup, made from
calf’s head, was invented in Britain. This rather strange dish was created as a
cheap alternative to the expensive and luxurious, genuine turtle soup,
which was something of a sign of affluence on the dinner party menu. Imported
turtles were extremely costly, so canned
turtle was used but that also was to pricey for many budgets. The recipe for
mock turtle soup is included here of its ‘novelity value.
RECIPE
Mock turtle soup
Boil a boned calf’s
head in white court-bouillon for 1
½ hours with carrots, an onion studded
with cloves, celery, a bouquet garni, salt and pepper. Drain the head and discard the ears; trim the rest of the
meat and put it under a press between 2 plates. When it is quite cold, cut it into small
round or square pieces and reheat in a little of the stock.
While the calf’s head is cooking make a clear brown gravy in stewpan, by
adding some stock to slices of salt leg of pork, veal knuckle and a half
roasted chicken. When these meats are almost cooked and the gravy reduced, add
the calf’s head cooking juices and vegetables and simmer gently for about 2 hours.
Strain, thicken with a little arrowroot diluted with cold
stock, then add an aromatic infusion of
basil, spring onion (scallion), marjoram, thyme and bay leaf in Madiera or port).
Strain the soup it
into a soup tureen; garnish with pieces
of calf’s head and, if desired, small
quenelles made from sausagemeat mixed with mashed hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg
yolks.
TURTLE HERBS A mixture of aromatic herbs (basil, marjoram,
chervil, savory and fennel), used
to flavour turtle soup and also turtle
sauce, which is served with calf’s head
and boiled ox (beef0 tongue.
TUSCANY A renowned
wine proclaiming region in central Italy best known for Chantly produce
mainly from Sangiovese. Further south the grape is used in maing Brunelio ali
Montalciono and vino Nobile di Montapulciano, giving fuller, richer, more intence wines. Some white wines are produced form Trechbiano, but the
region’s reputation for quality is based on the excellence of the red wines.
TUTTI-FRUTTI An
expression of Italian origin meaning all the
fruits, it is used to describe
various desserts that combine the
flavours of several fruits or contain
mixed fruits, crystallized (candied) pouched of fresh, generally cut into small pieces.
Tutti-Frutti ice cream contains, diced crystalized fruits
sleeped in kirsch. A tutti frutti bombe may be coated with strawberry ice cream, with a lemon ice cream mixed with diced crystallized fruit
inside.
Tutti-frutti is also a
pasty made of a thin a layer of sweet pastry covered with a layer of
crystallized or poached fruit, finely diced, diced, then a second layer of pastry.
The top is a covered with apricot syrup, iced (frosted) and generously sprinkled with
shredded (silvered) almonds or pieces of candied orange peel.
RECIPE
Tutti-fruitt bombe
Line a bombe mould with 1 litre (1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3
cups pineapple ice and harden in the freezer. Then make a sugar using 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) sugar and 100 ml (4 fl. oz 7 tablespoons) water, pour into a saucepan
in a bain marie and blend in 8 egg yolk.
Whisk on the hob (stove top) until thick and frothy. Strain, then whisk
again in a basin. Blend in 400 ml (14 fl. oz. 1 ¾ cups) chantilly cream. flavour with 1 tablespoon
kirsch and add a salpicon of 400 g (14 oz. 3 cups) crystallized (candied)
fruits steeped in kirsch, together with 100 g (4 oz. 2/3 cup) raisins soaked in
rum and well drained. Pour the mixture into the mould and decorate with glate (candied cherries, candied angelica and shredded (silvered) almonds.
TVAROG in Russian
cookery, a mixture of drained and sieved cord cheese, softened butter or soured
(sour cram and beaten eggs, usually seasoned with salt and pepper. It is used
to stuff small patties, which were served cold as an hors d’oeuvre. Tvrog an
also be used to fill tartlets pastry cases (shells) or rolled pancakes.
TVP The abbreviation
for textured vegetable protein, a manufactured produce made primarily form soy beams.
The vegetables protein is processed to
from a variety of foods,
including some resembling meat in
texture, colour and flavour, such as dried
granules, intended as an alternative to minced (ground) meat, and
chunks. When they were first promoted,
the flavoured dried TVP items were aimed at the vegetarian market, to replace
meat filled sausages, burgers and grilled bacon. They were also highlited as an inexpensive
alternative to meat for making stews and meat
sauces. As well as dried foods,
canned products resembling meat stews were also manufactured. Although dried
textured vegetable protein shapes and granules are still sold, vegetable
protein is more often sued in commercial as an extender for poultry and meat
products.
TWELFTH-NIGHT CAKE A traditional cake eaten on the day of
epiphany. As bean as inserted in the cake before cooking,
and the person whose portions contains the bean is appointed ‘king’ or ‘queen’
for the occasion. This ceremony probably dates back to Roman times. During the Saturmania the king of the day’ was choosen by lot, using a bean
conceled in a gaiette. It was only
in the Middle Ages that this cake
ceremony began to be associated with the
festival of Epiphany. From this time,
the Church attached a different
significance to it – the sharing of the
holy bread – but the tradition of the ‘elected king’ survived. Formerly, in
many French provinces, the cake was cut
according to a particular ritual, with songs and processions of children
collecting alms. During the Revolution,
an unsuccessful attempt was made to
replace the “Twelfth-Night cake with a cake of Exquality or Liberty,
started out during a ‘good neighbour’
festival.
In Britain Queen Victoria’s Twelfth-Night cake of 1849 was
described by The Illustrated London Neus as being of regal dimensions,
being about 30 inches in diameter, and
tail in proporiton.
Nowadays, France ha stow major
traditional Twelfth-Night cakes in the north, in Lyon and in the Paris area, the cake is a puff-pastry
galette, sometimes filled with frangipane; in the sought, the cake is like a
brioche, often decorated with crystallized
(candied) fruit or flavoured with
brandy or orange flower water in Provence and Auvergie, the
Twelfth-Night cake is like a
crown-shaped brioche and in bordeaux and Limouax the cake is flavoured with citron.
The bean is replace by a china figurine of a baby or animal.
RECIPE
Bordeaux Twelfth-night
cake
Make a well in 500 g
918 oz, 4 ½ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour and crumble in 20 g ( ¾ oz. 1 ½
cakes) fresh (compressed) yeast and 2 teaspoon salt. Work in 8 whole eggs, one by one the zest of
a grated in small quantities, and 200 g
(7 oz. 1 cup) butter softened until creamy. Knead the dough well until evenly
blended, then leave it to rise in a warm place for 10 hours.
Knock back (punch down) the dough as for brioch dough and divide it into 4 equal
parts. Shape each one into a crown and
place these crowns, after inserting the
bean on the underside of one of them, on a piece of buttered paper. Allow to
rise in a very cool oven, then leave to cool.
Brush the crows with beaten egg.
Decorate with thins slices of critron and crystallized (candied) sugar. Bake in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for about 40
minutes.
Traditionally, the 4 crowns are place on top of each other.
TYROLIENNE, A LA A term
given to preparations of meat, chicken, grilled kidneys, soft boiled or poached
eggs, or baked brill, garnish with friend slices of onion and a tomato fondue
(or crushed tomato). Tyrolienne sauce is a tomato-flavoured bearnaise sauce,
thickened with oil instead of butter.
RECIPE
Grilled chicken a la
tyrolienne
Prepare a 1 kg (2 ¼ lb)
chicken en crampoudine or
spstchcocked. Season with salt
and pepper, brush with flavoured oil and grill (broil) for 25-30 minutes. meanwhile, peel and lice 2 large onions
and separate into rings. Dusts the rings
with flour and deep-dry in oil at 180°C 9350°C (350°F). cut 4 medium sized tomatoes into quarters,
seed and lightly fry in 25 g 91 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter. Arrange the grilled chicken on a hot dish,
surrounded by the onions and tomatoes. Seasoned with salt and pepper and
garnish with parsley.
TYROPITA Also spelt
tiroptia, these are Greek cheese pies, puffs or turnovers. They are made from
filo pastry with a filling of feta cheese, often mixed with a mild cheese or
soft cheese. The pastry is cut into strips and the filling is placed at once
end, then the pastry is folded over the filling several times to make a small
triangular pie. The pastries are brushed
with melted butter and baked until crisp and golden. They are served
warm as a snack. For a main course, large versions of the pie are prepared in
deep baking trays. Spanakol la are
cheese and spinach pies.
TZATZIKI Greek dish, a
type of salad or dip, served as a first course or with a selection of mezzeas a
snack or horn d’oevre. Tzatziki consists
of finely cut or grated cucumber in yogart usually seasoned with garlic and
sometimes with mint, at may be topped with a trickle of olive oil.
RECIPE
Tzatziki
Peel 1 cucumber
(English cucumber) and cut it in half lengthways. Scoop out and discard the
seeds from the middle, them coarsely grate the remainder of the vegetable.
Place the grated cucumber in a sieve and
sprinkle it lightly with salt. Leave to drain over a bowl for about 30
minutes. squeeze the excess liquids from the cucumber, then place it in a bowl. Add 1 crushed garlic clove and a
squeeze of lemon juice. Stir in 300 ml
(1/2 pint, 1 ¼ cups) Greek yogurt. Finely chop the leaves from 2-3 sprigs.
Of mint and add them to the tzatziki.
Season with a little cayenne pepper and chill for about 1 hour before serving.
Offer warm crusty bread with the
tzataiki.
TZIMMES Jewish stew of
vegetables, typically potatoes and
carrots, often with beef, sweetened with
sugar or honey, sometimes flavoured with cinnamon, fresh or dried fruit, such
as apples, prunes or raisins, may be
added Tzimmes is served for Rosh
hashanah, the New York, when sweet foods are eaten to symbolize hope for sweetness and happiness in the year to
come.
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