G

GAILLAC Wine from southwestern France produced on both banks of the Tarn from some  of the oldest vineyards in France.

                The appellation Gaillac applies to white, red and rose  wines, White Gaillac can be dry, sweet, sparkling or perle (slightly petillant) and is predominantly made  from the Muzac grape.  The spicy, full-bodied red wines are mainly produced from the Duras grape.

GALANGAL A spice from India the Far East, obtained from rhizomes of two plants in the ginger  family, with orange or whitish pulp and a reddish skin.  Both resemble ginger in appearance but have a more  aromatic and peppery flavour.  The more commonly used greater galangal has white  flesh, and is used  freesh, dried and ground in Indonesian, Malaysian and Tahi cooking. The ground form is also known as Laos powder. Lesser galangal is smaller, has reddish skin and orange flesh and a stronger flavour.

GALANTINE A dish made  from lean pieces of poultry, game, pork, veal or rabbit, mixed with a  forcemeat containing eggs spices and various other  ingredients and pressed into a symmetrical shape. The term is commonly used to described a homed stuffed bird, in which the trimmings and forcemeat are cooked in an aspic stock and served cold as an entrée, glazed with aspic (the name comes from the  old French galantine, meaning ‘jelly’).

                Galantine  are sometimes cooked wrapped in a cloth, which  gives them a cylindrical shape, they should the, strictly speaking  be made with fish, a soupresse of  fish, which was  cooled under a board with a weigh on top was a form of galantine.

Galantine of chicken

Cut the wings tips off a 2 kg. (4 ½ lb) chicken. Slit the bird  along the back and, with a small, sharp-pointed knife bone it completely without tearing the flesh. This operation, which at first  sight seems awkward, is actually fairly simple: follow the joints of the  chicken and work inwards towards the carcass, shaving off the flesh as close to the bone as possible.  This separates the carcass from the body of  the chicken.  Now remove the bones form the legs and wings.  Now remove the bones form the legs and wings, still being careful not to  tear the skin. Spread out the bird on the table and cut away the  breast and the flesh of the thighs and wings, then  cut these pieces into squares.

                Now prepare the forcemeat  finely mince (grind) 250 g (9 oz. 1 cup) boned loin of pork and 250 g  (9 oz.  1 cup) shoulder of veal. Dice 150 g 95 oz. ¾ cup), fat bacon, 150 g (5 oz. ¾ cup) ham, and  150 g (5 oz. ¾ cup) pickled tongue into 1.5 cm (1/2 in) cubes, mix with  the chicken squares.  150 g  (5 oz. 1 ¾ cups) blanched  pistachios, the minced meat, 2 beaten eggs, 6 tablespoons brandy, salt, pepper and ¾ teaspoons all spice.  Wet your hands in  order to work this mixture and blend it together  shape it into a ball, then into a rectangular block.

                To prepare the gelatine, place the block of  forcemeat over the central third of chicken and enclose it by  folding over the parts of the chicken skin that project at the sides and ends, stretching it  without tearing. Soak a coarse linen cloth in water and wring it out, then spread it flat on the table.  Place it so that a flap about  25 cm (10 in) wide hangs over the edge of the table. Place galantine lengthways on this cloth, about 10 cm (4 in) from the edge of the table and breast upwards. Wrap the gelatine in the cloth securely. Tie the gelatine with string in 3 places  to keep it in shape.

                Prepare an aspic stock with 2 partly boned calf’s feet, 500 g (18 oz) fresh pork skin, 2 kg (4 ½ lb) knuckle of veal, 2 large sliced carrots, a large onion studded with cloves, 2 shredded leeks, a bouquet garni enrich with celery, 5 litres (8 ½ pints, 5 ½ quarts) white stock, 400 ml (14 fl oz. 1 ¾ cups) Madeira (optional), salt and pepper. Cook the stock for 1 ½ hours, then add the gelatine, bring rapidly to the boil and simmer for 2 ¾-3 hours.  Remove  the gelantine. Let it stand for 15 minutes before  unwrapping it. Remove the cloth, rinse in lukewarm water and wiring thoroughly. Spread it on the table  and carefully wrap the gelatine in it as before, taking care to keep the slit part of the children underneath.  Tie up gelatine. Press it on a slab, covering it with a wooden board with a weight on top. Allow to cool for at least 12 ours; it can be  kept for several days it is stored in a cool place.

                The gelantine is served garnished with its own  clarified aspic jely.

GALETTE A flat, round cake of variable size. The  gelatte probability dates from the Neolithic era, when  thick cereal pastes were  cooked by spreading them out on  hot stones.  In ancient time people made  galettes  from oats, wheat, rye and even barley, sweetened with  honey. Then came the hearth cakes of the Middle Ages and all the regional varieties : the gelatte of Correze, made with walnuts or chestnuts; the galette of Roussillon, made with  crystallized (candied) fruits, the matzipan gelatte of the Nivernais the cund cheese gelette of the Jura; the puff pastry gelette of Normandy, filled  with jam and fresh cream; the famous galette of Pergia , a delicate yeasted pastry, like  brioche, flavoured with lemon rind (zest) and topped with butter and  sugar; and,  of course, the traditional puff pastry Twelfth Night cake (galette des Rois or gateau des Rois).

                Galettes are not always sweet.  In rural France galettes are traditionally made with  potatoes (finely sliced or pureed) or with cereals (maize, millet, oats)

§  Buckwheat crepes in Britany, Basse-Normandie and the Vendee, galettes are crepes traditionally make with buckwheat flour.  They may be savoury, filled with ham, cheese, an egg, a sausage or grilled  9broiled) sardines, or sweet with fruit or a jam filling.

§  Butter biscuits.  The word galette also applies  to a small shorthread biscuit (cookie) made with butter, which is a great Breton specially, an to dry, round, crunchy cakes, sometimes with crimped edges, which  are variously flavoured, filled  or iced (especially with coffee or chocolate.

RECIPES

Galette de plomb

Make a well in 300 g (11 oz. 2 ¾ cups) sifted plain (all-purpose) flour and add 1 teaspoon caster(superfine) sugar, 2 teaspoon salt dissolved in 1 tablespoon single (light cream, and 200 g (7 oz. ¾ cup) softened butter cut into small pieces (dot these pieces all over the flour).  Mix all the ingredients together with the tips of the fingers. Beat  together I whole egg and 1 yolk.  Add them to the dough and knead towards the centre. If necessary, add another  tablespoon of cream. Work the dough into a ball, cover with a cloth and leave to stand for 30  minutes.

                Flour the work surface, spread out the dough  with the flat of the hand into a rectangle, fold it 3 times upon itself, roll it into a ball again and flatten it into a round shape, 2-3 cm (3/4- 1 ¾ in) thick. Place it on a buttered tart dish, trace rosettes on the top with the point of a knife, brush it with beaten egg and bake in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for about 30 minutes. Serve lukewarm or cold.

Galette fondanete

Mix 300 g (11 oz. 2 ¾ cups) sifted plain (all-purpose) flur with 50 g (2 oz, ¼ cup) softened butter. Add  1 beaten egg and 1 yolk, 6 tablespoons single (light) cream, 20 g (3/4 oz. 1 ½ tablespoons ) sugar and a  generous pinch of salt.  Roll the dough into a ball and leave to stand  for 30 minutes.  Roll it out and incorporate 200 g  (7 oz. ¾ cup) butter, as for puff pastry.  Fold and roll the dough a further 4 times, as for puff pastry, allowing it to rest for 10 minutes between the first 2 turns but rolling the final 2 turns without resting. Roll the dough out into a circle  and score a lattice pattern on the top with the point of a knife.  Brush with beaten egg and  bake in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) until golden brown. Sprinkle the gallete with icing (confectioner’s) sugar and put it back in the oven for a moment to glaze it.

Potato galette

Bake 6 large floury (baking) potatoes in the oven for 45-60 minutes  until soft. Cut them open and  remove that flesh, them mix 400 g (14 oz. 3 ¾ cups) of this with 4 egg yolks, added one by one, and 1 teaspoon salt soften 150 g ) 5 oz 2/3 cup) butter  with a spatula and mix  it in.  Roll the potato dough into a ball and flatten it with the palm of the hand.  Shape it into a ball again and repeat the operation twice more.  Butter a baking sheet and flatten the  dough to form a galette 4 cm 9 ½ in ) thick.  Trace a pattern on the top with point of a knife, brush it with beaten egg, and bake in  a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) until golden brown, if the  galette is to be served as a dessert, add to the  dough 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) sugar, orange-flower water and chopped blanched orange and lemon rind (zest).

Small orange galettes

Make a well in 250 g (9 oz. 2 ¼ cups) sifted plain (all-purpose) flour. In the centre place 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) sugar, 150 g (5 oz. 2/3 cup) butter, a pinch of salt, the rind (zest) of 2 oranges rubbed on  lumps of sugar and 6 egg yolks. Mix these ingredients together and gradually blend the flour into the mixture. Knead the dough intro a ball and allow  it to stand for a few hours in all cool place. Roll out the  dough to a thickness of about 5 mm (1/4 in.). Cut it  into rounds with a flutted cutter 5-6 cm (2-2 ½  in) in diameter.  Place the galettes on a buttered baking  sheet, brush with egg beaten with a pirch of sugar and bake in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) for about 6 minutes until lightly  golden.

Twelfth  Night cake

Galette des rois Roll out 500 g (18 oz. ) puff pastry and cut out 2 circles.  Place one on a baking sheet and rush the edge with beaten egg. Mix 100 g  (4 oz. ½ cup) sugar, 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) ground almonds, a  few drops of vanilla essence (extract) and 1 tablespoon rum.  Mix in 200 g (7 oz) crème platissiere .  spread the almond on the  pastry on the baking sheet, leaving the glazed edge uncovered, and put in a dried bean. Cover  with the  other circle of pastry and press the edges together, them with a pastry cutter. Brush with  beaten egg.  Allow to rest for 1 hour in the refrigerator and bake in a preheated oven at 190°C (375°F.,  gas 5 ) for 25 minutes.

GALICIEN A type of sponge cake filled with  (pistachio-flavoured cream, iced (frosted) green and  decorated with finely chopped pistachio nuts.  It was  apparently created at the old Patisserie Frascati in Paris.

RECIPE

Galicien

Prepare a round Genoese sponge cake using 40 g (1 ½ oz. 3 tablespoons) butter, 3 eggs, 90 g (3 ½ oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 90 g (3 ½ oz. Scant 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, and a pinch of salt. Slice  the cake in half horizontally, then sandwich it back together with a layer of confectioner’s custared flavoured with finely chopped pistachio nuts. Spread  the cake with apricot jam.  Make on icing (frosting) with 3 egg whites.  The juice of 1 lemon, 300 g (11 oz., 2 ¾  cups) icing (confectioner’s) sugar, and 3 drops of green colouring. Cover the cake with the icing, decorate with chopped pistachios and keep cool until ready to serve.

GALINGALE A  perennial Mediterranean plant that  produces scaly brown tubes  the size of hazelnuts, the sweet, white, farinaceous pulp of which earned  them French name amandes de terre (earth almonds). They may be eaten dry, raw or roasted  like chestnuts.

                In North Africa the tubes are generally ground and used in forcemeats for poultry, meathballs and spice  mixtures.

                In Spain the galingale is called cufa; grown in  the valencia region, it is used for making a popular drink, borchata, which is similar to orgeat.  It also yields an oil, which  has a lower freezing point than water and which does not turn rancid, and a flour used in confectionary.

GALL BLADDER The organ that stores bile, a greenish, very biter substance secreted by the liver.  When poultry or game birds are drawn, care must be taken not to pierce or break the gall bladder  attached to the liver, because the bile is  so bitter that it would taint the flesh.

GALLIMAUFRY  galimafree In the Middle Ages a dish of finely sliced cooked meat (usually chicken or mutton), fried in lard or goose fat, mixed with finely chopped onions and then moistened with wine and  erjuice sauce spiced with ginger.  At that time galliaufry was the feast dish of the people (its  names  frm gatler, to enjoy oneself, and mafrer, to eat ravenously). It was only in the 17^th  century that the word took on the pejorative meaning that it has today: a badly prepared and unappetizing dish.

GAMAY RED grape with white juice, hardy and fertile, mostly grown in Beaujolais, but also in Burgundy,  Auvergne, the Loire valley and Savoie-dauphine. It is also well established in United States, Brazil and Austria.

GAME Al wild animals and birds that are hunted and those that are or were hunted and now are farmed. The  French word comes from the old French gibecer (to hunt), which  derives from the  Latin gibbosus (hunchback). Hunters brought home the game they killed in a bag that they usually carried on their backs. Thus, the hunter’s bag was called a gibeciere, from  which  it was an obvious step to gibier (the contents of the bag).

                Hunting was once an important means of providing meat for the table. Today, in industrialized countries, game is only a minor and occasional food, but hunting countries to be enjoyed as a sport.’

                Game appears on the market only during the  open season, when hunting is permitted unless the animals or birds have been specially bred, as in the case of quails and pheasants, for example. In  Britain several birds are protected al years round, including blackbird, bustared, cygnet, heroes, lapwing. Lark, rail, swan and swift. Other birds and animals, such as crow, beaver and dormouse, are no longer hunted at all, tastes having changed.

§  Ground and winged game Games can be divided into two broad categories: ground and winged. Ground game is  subdivided into large game (deer, roebuck, wild hoar and, in North Anerica, bison)  and small game  (hare and wild rabbit0.  The French term  bete fauve applies specifically to the  large herbivorous game (deer of both sexes) as distinct from the hete noire (wild boar) and bete rousse (fox badger) Winged game in France includes woodcock, pheasant, hazed grouse, grouse, partridge partridge poult, rail, wood pigeon, capercaille and  black grouse, small game  birds include lark, garden warbler, thrush. Blackbird, ortolan and plover, while water game includes godwit, wild duck, curlew, wild  goose, moorhen, real and lapwing.

§  Digestibility of game The way of life and the  feeding habits of game are reflected in the texture and flavour of its flesh, which has a strong, fragrant aroma, which becomes stronger with age. The flesh is more  compact and almost  leathery in all animals with a strong colour and less fat than other meat.

Before cooking, game meat is generally hung for a  certain length of time to allow it to mature, which makes it tender and gives it a stronger flavuor.

The length of time for which the game is left to mature varies according to its age and type for  example , 4 days for a woodcock or a pheasant, 3 for  a thrush or a duck, 2 for a hare, and 6-8 days for  large game. Daring the maturing process the flavour and tenderness of the game improves.

Game sold commercially already matured. When purchasing, it is advisable to choose a young animal or bird that is not ‘high’.

§  Cooking game The cuts of meat and the culinary methods are the same for large game as for other  meat. except that game is often marinated: haunches, saddles and loins are roasted.  Breasts, shoulders and necks are eaten in ragouts and civets; noisettes and cutlets are sautéed  or grilled (broiled). Winged game is prepared like poultry.  Terrines and  pates can be also made from game. A sweet accompaniment (apples chestnuts, grapes red fruits whorthleberries) is  sometimes cosen in order to  bring out the strong taste of the dark meat, which is  often served with highly seasoned sauces (grand veneur, poivrade, Perigueux, Cumberland).  Full-bodied wines with a distinct bouquet are usually  served with game.

GAMMELOST A Norwegian semi-soft, yellowish-brown cheer made from cow’s or goat’s milk.  Its rind is brown and becomes darker as it ages  maturing can take up to 6 months, but Gammelost, which  has a strong, anomatic flavour, can also be eaten after I month.  It is made in 15 cm (6 in) block either rectangular or cylinder in shape, depending  on whether it is made of goat’s or cow’s milk.

GANACHE A flavoured cream made with chocolate and  fresh cream, sometimes, with butter added, used to decorate desserts, to fill cakes or sweets and  to make muffles or petits fours. It was created in Paris in about 1850 at the Patisserie Siraudin.

RECIPES

Ganache

Melt 250 g 99 oz. 9 squares) plain (unsweetened0 chocolate over a low heat and add 65-75 g (2 ½-3 oz. 5-6 tablespoons0 unsalted butter. Cool, the fold in whipped cream, either 250 ml (8 fl. oz. 1 cup) whipping cream or 200 ml (7 ml oz. ¾ cup) double (Heavy) cream whipped with 3 tablespoons milk.

Whipped ganache

Bring 100 ml (4 fl oz ½ cup) double  cream to the boil. Remove  from the heat and add 225 g  ( oz. 8 squares) plain (unsweetened) chocolates, broken into squares.  Stir  until the chocolate has  melted and is thoroughly combined  with the cream. Leave until cool, but not set, then whip until pale, thick and light. Alternatively, the cooled, but not  whipped, ganache may be stirred and poured over cakes as a chocolate icing (frosting).

GAPERON Also known as Gapron.  A cheese from the Auvergne region of France made of  skimmed  cow’s milk or buttermilk (gape in the local dialect) shaped like a ball fluttered at one end, 9 cm (3 ½ in) in diameter. The cheese is composed and flavoured with garlic  and pepper, which  give it a  pronounced flavour, but a strong smell is a sign that it is overripe. The best season for Gaperon is between October and March.

GARAM MASALA A spice mixture used in Indian cookery.  The exact mix varies according to the cook’s  taste and requirements,  but mild, warm-flavoured spices are used, typically cardamom, cinnamon,  cloves, cunnin and black pepper. The whole spices are  roasted together before  being ground. Because it is  roasted, unlike raw spices that are cooked in the first stages of preparation, gatam masala is one of the spice mixtures that may be added to dishes in the finals stages of cooking or sprinkled  over as a final seasoning before  serving. The spice mix may be prepared  especially for each dish, or a slightly larger quantity can be made and stored in an airtight container.

GARBURE in the Beam region of France a king of  stew based on vegetable stock, cabbage and confit d ‘oie (preserved goose). However, there are several versions of varying richness, including briscat (maize garbure).  According to tome authors, the world comes from the Spanish garbias (ragout or stew).  This etymology is disputed  by Simin Palay:The root  is undoubtedly garbe (a sheaf or bunch). And indeed it is a bunch of vegetables which is the very basis of the garbure.

RECIPE

Garbage

(from Simin Palay’s recipe).  Boil some water in an earthnware pot glazed on the inside (cast-iron or  iron pots spoil the delicacy of the flavour). When it is boiling, throw in some  potatoes, peeled and cut into thick slices. Add other fresh vegetables in season: haricot (navy) or broad (fava) beans, peas or  French (green) beans. Season with salt and pepper.  Cayenne may be used  in lace of white pepper.  Flavour with garlic, a sprig of thyme, a parsley or fresh marjoram. Leave the stock to cook, making sure that the water is constantly on the boil.

                Shred tender green cabbage as finely possible, cutting across the width of the leaves and removing any tough portions. When the rest of the ingredients are thoroughly cooked, throw the cabbage into the boiling stock.  Cover the pot to keep the  cabbage leaves green and, 30 minutes before serving, out in a piece of pickled meat, preferably goose (lou trebuc) ; the fat on this will be sufficient. If pickled pork trebuc is used, the addition of a little goose  fat will enhance the flavour of the stew. Cut stale  wholewheat (whole-wheat) bread into thin slices  and add to the stock and vegetables. The mixture must  be thick enough for the ladle to stand up when it is  set in the centre of the tureen.

                It is possible tomake a good garbure witout trebuc, but in that  case it is necessary to put a piece to ham bone or a sausage or, at the very least., lean bacon (thin flank) in the cold water. White cabbage may be used instead of green cabbage. For an every day garbure it is usual to make do with a piece of bacon or ham, or bacon chopped with crushed garlic.  According to the time of year, a few slices of swede (rutabaga) or roast chestnuts are added.

                If dried beans are used, they have to be cooked  in advanced  and  drained after cooking, because, because their  water would destroy the characteristic flavour of  the garture. To thicken the broth, the cooked  beans are sometimes crushed and rubbed through a sieve.  The  meat is served separately from the  broth, either by itself or with the vegetables. Some  cooks brown this case, some fat must be added, but  the fat in which  the trebuc was browned should not  be used.

                Simin Palay concludes: ‘A good  groudale is an indispensable complements to every garbure.’  (A  goudale is the broth remaining when the vegetables  have been eaten, which  is enriched with red or  white wine.)

GARDE-MANGER in a classic French kitchen the  member of the staff in charge of cold items, hors d’oeuvres, some desserts and al decorative work.

GARFISH  orphie An elongated  sea fish with a long, spear-like snout, which has earned  of sea-snipe. The  garfish has a bluish-green back, a whitish belly and can reach a length of 80cm (3 in) and a weighted of 1.5 kg (3 lb). The flesh has a delicate flavour and is prepared in the same way as conger eel; it can also be fried.  Unfortunately, its strong smell and the fact that it bones, green in their natural state, become mauve when cooked are disconcerting to some people.

GARGOTE Originally, a gargote was an in where  it was possible to each inexpensively. Since the 19^th  century the word has come to mean any small, cheap, dirty resturning serving poor quality food, as  proprietor being called a gargotier.  The word appears to come form the Old French gargatte (throat). R Dumay, in Du silex an barbecue, gives a  more amusing etymology; according to him, the word is derived from cargator, the cook on board the boats carrying pilgrims to Jerusalem, who were packed together uncomfortably.

GARCOULETTE A porous earthen vessel in which water is cooled by evaporation.  The gangoulette usually has handle and a spout, which makes it  possible to drink form it without the vessel touching the drinker’s lips.

GARLIC A bulbous plant and, like onions, a member  of the Allium genus. It probably originated in  central Asia and has been known since ancient times  for its curative properties. The Greks and Romans held garlic in high esteem;  Hippocrates classified as a sudorific medicine, stating that garlic was ‘hot, laxative and dituretic’.  The crusades helped to make  it known in Europe, where it soon took on the role of a panacea, even against the plague and posession by devils, Its culinary use is  probably as old as its medicinal use.  One of the most widely used medieval sauces was sauce d’aulx, in which crushed garlic was mixed either with parsley and sorrel to accompany fish dishes or with vinegar and breadcrumbs to go with grills.

§  Varieties.  Garlic is grown and used as a condiment in most parts of the world.  The bulb or ‘head’ of garlic  is formed of 12-16 bulbets, commonly called  ‘cloves’, each protected by a parchment-like skin, which  is white, violet or reddish according to variety.  The most widely used garlic in France, for  example, has a white or grey skin and is grown in Provence and southwest France. The smaller variety of garlic cultivated in the Auvergne has a  violet-or rose-colured skin (billom pink garlic); garlic from the Douai region has a red-brown skin. Garlic from the  Charentes is considered to be less pungent, while Spanish garlic, or rocambole, is similar to a shallot. The most widely used garlic in the United States is grown in California

§  Storing  The bulbs must be throughly dry. They can be sotred in a cold place (fro –0.5°C to + 1°C, 31-34°F) or at a moderate temperature (18°C, 64°F)., either laid out flat or hanging in bunches to improve aeration.  If spots appear on them or the cloves become soft, the garlic is no longer usable. In general, white garlic keeps for about 6 months, pink garlic for nearly a year.

RECIPES

Garlic oil

Blanch and crush garlic cloves, add olive oil and press through as sieve. Alternatively, add grated garlic to olive oil and press through a muslim cloth (cheesecloth). Garlic oil is used to season salads are raw vegetables.

Garlic puree

Blanch some garlic cloves, then gently sweet them in butter. Add a few spoonfuls of thick bechamel sauce and either press through a sieve or liquidize  in a blender.  Garlic  puree is used in sauces and stuffings.

Garlic stuffing

Crush the yolks of hard-boiled (hard-cooked) eggs in a mortar with an equal quantity of blanched garlic cloves.  Add fresh butter (half the volume of  ingredients in the mortar), season with salt and, pepper and press through a sieve or crush in a blender. Chopped herbs may also be added. This  stuffing is used to garnish cold hors d’oeuvres, to spread on canapes and in various other dressings.

Roast garlic

Remove any loose outer layers of papery covering from a large of garlic and trim off the stalk at  the top. Brush with a little oil and wrap in foil.  Prepare  1 head for 2 portions. Cook in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 30-40 minutes. Use a sharp knife to slice the head of garlic horizontally in half, serve with salt,  olive oil and warm crusty bread.

GARLIN, GUSTAVE French chef. Born in Tonerre in 1839, he worked for wealthy private for wealthy private housholds and said of himself:  “I taught myself in the embassies, in the Senate, in the ministries and in some  of the better houses of the Fubourg Saint Germain.’  He is the author of a basic cookery book,  published in 1887, le Cusinier moderne, ou less Secrets de l’art culinaire.

GARNISH A single item or combination of items accompanying a dish.  The garnish can be placed around meat, chicken, fish or game, or served separately.

                Whether simple or composite, the garnish always blends  with the flour of the basic dish and  the sauce (if there is one).  The range of garnishes in French cookery is very diverse, although the blending of flavours ncessitates the use of certain traditional garnishes (leg of mutton with small kidney beans, poached fish with boiled or steamed potatoes, venison with  chestnut puree).

                Simple garnishes consist of a single element, usually a vegetables (braised, sautéed, bound with butter, or cooked in cream), rice or pasta.

                Composite garnishes are made from several ingredients whose flavours blend both with each other and with the main dish. They consist of ordinary items(such as pieces of bacon, small onions, fresh vegetables, mushrooms prepared in a variety of  ways) or more  elaborate ingredients (such as cockscombs, crayfish tails, truffles, filled croustades, quenelles, croutons) depending on the nature of the  dish.

                The garnish may also be a kind of ragout, made of  a composite salpicon (chicken, calve’s sweetbreads, quenelles, mushrooms), blended with brown or white sauce and arranged in small pastry shells.

                In all case, the garnish should be placed around a dish so as to achieve an overall harmony of shapes and colours pleasing to the eye.

                Some garnishes  were invented by chefs of old (Choron, foyot, Laguipiere); some are dedicated to historical figures. (gavour, conde, Du Barry, Meyerbeer, Rossini, Talleyrand), some bear the name of  the town or  region where their main ingredient orginates (anversoise, Argenteuil, bordelaise, clamart , Nantua, Perigueux), while  others evoke either  the preparation of which they are part (bateliere, commodore, grand veneur) or their own arrangement (bouquetiere, jardiniere).

GARUM A condiment widely used by the ancient Greeks and Romans, obtained by soaking intestines and pieces of fish in brine with aromatic herbs. (pissalat from Nice and the Vietnamese)  nuoc-man have a similar forumula.)  according to  contemporary writers, the best garum was made in Carthage using mackerel, but it was also made with fry, salmon, sardines and shad, and there were many variants with wine, vinegar or water, or strongly seasoned with pepper Garum had a very strong smell and flavour  and formed part of most recipes, if was also used as a condiment added at the table.

GASCONY BUTTER beurre de gascone A mixture of fine melted  and pureed blanched garlic cloves. This  condiment is badly named named since it does not contain butter.  It is serverd with grills, breadcrumbed preparations and boild vegetables.

GASTRIQUE A reduced mixture of vinegar and sugar used in the preparation of hot sauces accompanying dishes made with fruit (such as duck with orange).  Gastrique is prepared by heating together  (seasoning as necessary) until the liquid has almost entirely evapaorated.

GASTRONOME, A LA A term used to describe a dish of pot-roastedistuffed chicken or calves’ sweetbreads with small potached truffles, chestnuts and morels in butter, garnished with cockscombs  and kidneys. The cooking pot is deglazed with  champagne and demi-glace, seasoned with  truffle  essence and used as a sauce.

                The name is also given to a dish of sautéed  potatoes accompanied by truffles, attibuted to the marquis of Cussy.

GASTRONOMIC TESTS eprouvettes gastronomiques ‘some  dishes are of such indisputable excellence that their appearance alone is capable of  arousing a level-headed man’s degustatory powers.  All those who, when presented with such a dish, show neither the rush of desire, nor the radiance of  ecstasy, may justly be deemed unworthy of the honours of the sitting, and its related delights.’

                This test, described by Brillat-Savarin in Meditation XIII of the Physiologie du gout, was intended to  identify the true groumet. However, the test would have to be adopted according to the gourmet’s  income and social  status. Brillat-Savarin, Therefore, suggested three series of tests, according to the  gourmet’s prescribed income (mediocre, comfortable or large).  The first was fillet of veal landed with fat bacon and cooked in its  own juices, or a dish of garnished sauerkraut, followed by ceufs a la neige (floating islands); the second was leg of salt-meadow lamb a la protencale and petits pois, or haunch of vension with chopped gherkin sauce; and the third was a pheasant a la Sainte-Alliance, or  a seven-pound fowl stuffed with Perigord truffles until quite round.

GASTRONOMY The art of good eating, which Monselet defines as the joy of all situations and of  al ages.  Derived from the Greek gastros (stomach) and momos (law), the word came into general use in  France in 1801, the year that la Gastronomic on l’Homme des champs a lable by J. Berchoux was  published.  Two years later, Le Gastronome a Paris by Croze Magnan appeared.

                In 1835 the Academic Francaise made the word  gastronomie official  by including it in its dictionary; it therefore rapidly gained currency despite being  rather pedantic and unwieldy.

                Rabelais introduced the Greek stem word into his  play Pantagruel through the character of the god  Gaster, honoured by gluttons. Various neologisms  have been  coined from the same model, such as gastrlatrie  and gastromamie, which  designate various degrees of excessive love of eating, and gastrotechnie, invented by E. de Pomiane, meaning the  science  of cooking. But the best verbal invention is attributed to Curnonsky, the founder of the Academie des Gastronomes, who  coined the term gastronomades to designate tourists who are lovers of regional specialties.

                True gastronomes, while appreciating the most  refined products of the culinary art, enjoy them in  moderation; for their normal fare, they seek out the  simplest dishes, which are, however, the most refined products of the culinary art, enjoy them in moderation; for their normal fare, they seek out the  simplest dishes, which are, however, the most difficult to prepare to perfection.  Although they are not  themselves practitioners of the culinary art, they  know enough of its methods to be able to pass judgement on a dish and to recognize the ingredients of which is composed.  In addition, they are  familiar with the history of cooking and food and  interested in foreign and exotic dishes.

                On the other hand, as J-F Revel says in Un festin en paroles.  ‘The gastronome is at the  same time inquisitive and timid; he explores faint-heartedly.  He  spends half his time remembering past satisfactions and the  other half sceptically calculating future possibilities.

                Often, however, gastronomy is reduced to following fashion and reflects contemporary social attitudes. In 1925 a well-known journalist, Clement Vautel, wrote a report on ‘snobbish gastronomy’:  The curious thing is that  snobbish gastronomes look  for a traditional classic – even rough and rustic – simplicity.  They leave the bourgeois eating swallows’  nests in pseudo-Chinese restaurants and go to inns with a Norman décor to enjoy blanquette de veau served unpretentiously by skilled cooks.’

GAEAU A LA BROCHE a speciality that is chalimed tocome from both the Avenyron and the ariege regions. It is made with a thick, oily paste flavoured with rum or orange-flower water, which is gradually poured over a special rotating spit. The  spit rod is a long cone of wood wrapped in oiled paper, the mixture is ladled on to this as it turns slowly in front of a very hot fire. The cake cooks in a series of layers, which  are wound in a long jagged  band. When the cake mixture is used up, the cone is  carefully withdrawn and the cake is left to cool. It  keeps perfectly well for several days.

GAE-SAUCE Now  synonymous with scullion’, this term originally designated the gars de sauce, the  kitchen assistant or cooks’ boy whose job was to  prepare the sauces under the instructions of the sauce chef or head chef.

GATIS  A speciality of the rouergue region of France, made of a yeasted dough. It was created in about 1900 in Saint-Affrique by leonie Cazes.  Today  the gatis is made of bal of brioche dough in the  centre of which a mixture of laguiole and Roquefort  or Roquefort and  Cantal cheese is inserted; the  whole is covered with a silce of Laguiole or Cantal.  The Brioche is then left to rise, brushed with egg and baked in the owen.

GAUDEBILLAUX an old French dish akin to tripe, which  Rebelais describes  in Pantagrue: Gaudebillaux is fatty tripe from coiraux.  Coiraux aer oxen Fattened at the manger and in guimaux meadows.  Guimaux meadows are those which have two crops  of grass a year.’ Rabelais states that this tripe, prepared immediately the ox was slaughtered, did not  keep for very long.  ‘from which it was concluded that people should stuff themselves with it, so as not  to waste anything’.

GAUDES A cornmeal porridge that used to be the traditional evening  meal in Burgundy, Franche-Comte and Bree.  The  word is derived from gaude, a plant yielding a yellow  dye, which was grown in  France in the 19^th century.   However, some inhabitants of Franche-Comte claim that it comes from the Latin gaudeamus (let us rejoice)

                Gaudes is served hot in a soup plate or a bowl, and topped up with milk, cream or even wine.  Sometimes  pieces of larding bacon are added. The thick porridge may also be poured into a large dish, spread out and left to cool. It  can then be cut up into pieces, browned in a frying pan in butter and served as a dessert with caster (superfine) sugar, jam or honey

GAULOISE , A LA The term applied to a number of quite elaborate dishes incorporating cockscombs and kidneys. These include a chicken consome blended with tapioca and garnished with poached  cockscombs and kidneys; soft-boiled (soft-cooked) eggs on eroutons with a salpicon of ham in tomato sauce. Garnished with browned kidneys and  cockscombs, and a garnish for bouchees or tantlets,  made of cockscombs and kidneys with a salpicon of  truffles and mushrooms added, thickened with supreme sauce flavoured with Madeira.

                However, cockscombs and kidneys are not included in the garnish a la gauloise for large  braised or poached fish. This consists of barqueates  filled with a salpicon of trufles and mushrooms in cream thickened with matelote sauce, and trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon.

               

GAZELLE’S HORN An Oriental crescent-shaped pastry made from two types of paste. One is a mixture of ground almonds, sugar, butter and orange-flowered water, which is rolled into small sausage shapes abroad the size of a finger. The other is a very smooth and elastic dough, which is rolled out to a  thickness of 2-3 cm (about 1 in.)   this dough is cut into 10-12 cm (4-5 in) squares, on each of which is  placed an almond-paste sausage, diagonally across. Each square is then, rolled into a crescent shape Gazelle’s  horns are cooked in a warm oven and sprinkled with icing (confectioner’s) sugar.

GAZETIN DU COMESTIBLE A periodical that appeared between January and December 1767, the  object of which was to tell its readers how to obtain all the  necessary foodstuffs to eat well.  Although this forerunner of modern culinary guides  ran for only 12 issues, it provides valuable information on the provisioning of Paris in the 18^th century and the  prices that were charged.

GAZPACHO A Spanish soup, originally a labourers’ dish, made  with bread and vegetables, including cucumber, tomato, onion and red (bell) pepper.  Seasoned with olive oil and garlic and sharpened with vinegar, the soup is served ice cold. It is commonly served with bowls of garnished, such as chopped black olives, red pepper, hard-boiled (hard-cooed) egg and croutons rubbed with garlic. Its name of  Arabic origin, means ‘soaked bread’. Traditionally prepared in a large clay bowl, which  gives it a characteristic taste, gazpacho originally came from Sevelle but there  are numerous  variants. In Jerez it is garnished

 It is garnished with raw onion rings, in Mahalaga it is made with veal bouillon and sometimes garnished with  grapes and almonds, in Cadiz it is severved hhot in winter; in Cordoba it is thickend with cream an dmaize flour (commeal); in Segovia it is flavoured  with  cumin and basil and prepared with a mayonnaise base.

                Alice B. Toklas, in her Cookery Book, states that a  Chilen writer of Catalonian origin, Marta Brunei describes gazpacho as the meal of the Spanish muleteers, who take  with them on their travels an  earthen dish, garlic, olive oil, tomatoes and cucumbers, as well as some dry bread, which they crumble up. By the  side of the road, they crush the garlic between two stones with a little salt, then add some  oil. They coat the inside of the dish with this mixture.  Then they cut up the cucumbers and tomatoes and place them in the dish in alternate layers with  breadcrumbs, finishing with a layer of breadcrumbs and oil. Having done this, they take a wet cloth, wrap the dish in it and leave it in the sun.  the contents are cooked by evaporation and when cloth is dry, the meal is cooked’.

RECIPES

Sevill gazpacho

Put 4 crushed garlic cloves, 1  teaspoon, ½ teaspoon ground cayenne and the pulp of 2 crushed  medium-sized tomatoes in a bowl. Thoroughly mix these ingredients and add 4 tablespoons olive oil drop by drop. Then add a Spanish onion cut into slices as thin as tissue paper, a green or red (bell) pepper (cored and diced), and cucumber (peeled, seeded and diced) and 4 tablespoons croutons.  Add 750 ml (1 ¾ pints, 3 ¼ cups) water and mix well, Serve chilled.

Lobster gazpacho

Peel and slice 100 g (4 oz.) cucumber.  Wash the  white part of 4 leeks and 4 sticks of celery and cut them in Julienne strips.  Blanch all these vegetables  in boiling salted water  (5 minutes for the cucumber, 10 minutes for the leeks and celery).  Drain, cool under cold water and dry thoroughly. Remove the leaves from a bunch of chervil.  Peel, seed and slice 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb.) tomatoes.  Seed and slice 350 g (12 oz.) red (bell) peppers. Peel and seed 250 g  (9 oz) raw cucumber,  peel and crush 5 garlic cloves. Cook 4 lobsters for 5 minutes in court-bouillon, shell them, put aside the coral and cut the flesh into slices. Arrange the slices on a large dish.

                Liquidize the raw vegetables (tomatoes, peppers, garlic and cucumber) with pursley, salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Put the vegetables puree into a saucepan and bring to the boil to made a bouillon. Separately, bring to the boil 500 ml (17 fl oz, 2 cups) single (light) cream. Mix the vegetable bouillon and cream together, adjust the seasoning and boil the mixture for 2-3 minutes. Take off the  heat, blend in the reserved coral and strain. Pour this puree over the lobster slices and leave to cool.

                Refrigerate until well chilled before serving.  Garnish with the slices of cucumbers, the blanched jullence of leeks and celery  and the chervil leaves.

GEFILTE FISH A classic Jewish cold fish dish, suitable for the Sabbath, when, according to the  strict rules of the religion, cooking is not  allowed. Originally is stuffed freshwater fish-pike  or carp-with the cooked  flesh carefully removed and borned, then combined with  matzo meal and seasonings before being stuffed back into the skin and poached.  (Gefilite means stuffed) in Yiddish.) the modern version differs in the fish mixture is shaped into the skin. The poached fish halls are glazed with a little of the cooking liquor, which sets in the  same way as aspic, and are served cold with a beet-roof (beef) and horseradish sauce.  White sea fish may be used instead of pike or carps.

GELATINE A colourless, odourless substance extracted from the bones and cartilage of animals and from certain algae (agar-agar, alginates).  Gelatine can be  in the form of powder of translucent leaves.  It is soaked in cold water until it swells and  is then dissolved either over or with a little boiling water and blended with the mixture for which it is  intended.  Gelatine is used for making jellies, numerous cold or iced desserts, and for the fining of wines and fruit juices. It is also used in industrial confectionery.

§  Using gelatine leaf gelatine should be soaked in cold water until soft, then drained and dissolved in a measured quantity of hot water, stirring occasionally, until the liquid is clear. Powdered gelatine should be  sprinkled evenly over the surface of a small amount of cold water and left, without stirring, until it swells and becomes spongy. Then it should be dissolved over a pan of simmering water until clear.

Adding a small amount of dissolved gelatine to a very cold or chilled liquid or mixture will make it set almost immediately into strings or lumps.  Dilute  the dissolved gelatine with liquid or a liquid mixture at  room temperature before combining it with any chilled mixture or ingredients.

                The amount gelatine to use depends on the set required, which may be soft and slightly creamy or firm enough to support the shape of a moulded mixture. As a guide, I sachet powdered gelatine  usually contain 7 g (1/4 oz.), the equivalent of 2 ¼ teaspoons.  This is sufficient to set 600 ml (1 pint, 2 ¼ cups) liquid, giving a soft set. For a firm set – for example  to support pieces of fruit in a moulded jelly or  terrine – allow 4 teaspoons powdered gelatine to  600 ml (1 pint, 2 ½ cups). When using leaves, allow 3 leaves to set the equivalent of 7 g (3/4 oz) or  2 ¼ teaspoons powdered gelatine.

GELLING AGENT  A food additive used to give a preparation a jelly-like consistency.  The main gelling agents are pectins, alginic acid and its derivatives (E400-405), agar-agar, carrageen, starch and carob  been gum, which are used in a variety of products, including flans, ice creams, jams and porridge.

GENDARME A  popular French name for pickled herring, referring to the stiffness of the fish when it  is dried and smoked.

                The name is also given to a small, flat sausage of  Swiss origin (called landiager), which is common in Germany and Austria.  Rectangular in shape, it is  made of lean beef and pork fat, dried and smoked, and eaten or cooked.

GENEPI An alpine species of wormwood, well  known for its tonic properties. It is used in the preparation of herb teas and is the main ingredient in a number of plant liqueurs, including the famous genepi des Alpes.

GENEVOISE,  A LA A tem used to described fish dishses served with genevoise sauce, made of fish fumet, mirepoix and red wine; thickened with butter Genevoise sauce was originally called genoise  (Careme’s recipe is made with consomme and espagnole sauce), the name being changed to avoid confusion with Genoese sponge cake.  Nevertheless, some cookery books still include a ‘genoise sauce’,  made in the same way as genevoise sauce but with white wine.  A variant of genevoise sauce, called gourmet sauce, includes lobster butter, crayfish tails, quenelles and truffles, and is used to coat slices of eel cooked in court-bouillon.

RECIPES

Genevoise sauce

Crush 500 g (18 oz0 salmon trimmngs.  Peel and dice a large carrot and a large onion.  Cut 10 parsley sprigs into small pieces.  Sauce all these in 15 g  (1/2 oz. 1 tablespoon) butter for 5 minutes over a low heat. Add a sprig of thyme, half a bay leaf, pepper  and the fish trimmings.  Cook very slowly in a covered saucepan for 15 minutes.  Add a bottle of  red wine (Chambertin or Cotes-du-Rhone) and a  little salt to the pan juice. Boil down slowly for 30-40 minutes.  Strain  the sauce, then thicken it  with 1 tablespoon beurre manie (1 tablespoon  anchoy butter may also be stirred in). adjust the  seasoning.

Genoise sauce

Pour into a saucepan 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) red Bordeaux wine. Add 2 tablespoons fines herbes (consisting of mushrooms, truffles, parsley and 2 shallots, all blanched and chopped), a small pinch of quatre-epices (a mixture of white peppercorns, nutmeg, cinnamon or ginger and cloves), and a  pinch of finely ground pepper. Boil down almost completely, add 2 tablespoons consume. 250 ml  (8 fl oz. 1 cup) espagnole sauce and 120 ml (4 ½ fl. oz.  ½ cup).  Bordeaux wine. Boil down to the  desired consistency and transfer the sauce to a bain marie. Blend in a little unsalted butter just before  serving. (Traditionally, high quality butter from  isigny, Normandy, would be added.)

GENOA CAKE  pain de genes A. types of rich sponge cake made with ground almonds, not to be  confused with genese sponge cake. Of varying  degrees of lightness, depending on whether or not  the beaten egg whites are incorporated separately, Genoa cake is traditionally cooked in a round mould with a fluted edge. It is served plain or with various decoration and filings.

RECIPE

Genoa cake

Work 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter into  a soft paste with 150 g (5 oz. 2/3 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, then whisk until the mixture becomes white. Blend in 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) ground almonds, then add 3 eggs, one bay one, 40 g (1 1/3 oz. ½ cup) cornflour (cornstarch) and a pinch of salt. Work everything well together. Flavour the mixture with 1 tablespoon  liqueur (such as Curacao). Butter a  round cake tin (pan), line to bottom with  a circle  of buttered greaseproof (wax) paper, and pour in the mixture. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C.(350°F, gas 4) for 40 minutes turn out immediately on to on to a wire rack and remove the paper.

GENOESE SPONGE  Genoise a light sponge  cake that takes its name from the  city of Genoa. Genoese sponge is made of egg and sugar whisked over heat until thick, then cooled and combined with flour and melted butter.  It can be enriched with ground almonds or crystallized (candied) fruits and flavoured  with liqueur, the rind (zest) of citrus fruits or vanilla.  Genoese sooner (which should not be confused with Genoa cake) differs from ordinary sponge cake in that the eggs are beaten whole, whereas in the latter the yolks and whites are usually beaten separately.  Genoese sponge is the basis of many filled cakes.  Cut into two or more layers, which may be covered with jam, cream or fruit puree, it is cooled, iced (frosted) and decorated as required.

Recipes

Genoese sponge

Melt 125 (4 ½ oz, ½ cup) butter gently without allowing it to become hot.  Put 275 g (10 oz, 1 l/3 cups) caster (superline) sugar, 8 beaten eggs, 2 large pinches of salt and l teaspoon vanilla sugar into a basin and place it in a tepid bain marie; whisk the mixture until it becomes thick, pale and foamy.  Remove from the heat and continue to whisk until it cools down completely.  Carefully fold in 250 g (9 oz, 2 l/4 cups) shifted flour and then trickle in the tepid melted butter at the side of the bowl.  Mix in gently until it is evenly blended.  Pour this mixture into a large buttered sandwich tin (layer cake pan) and bake in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 25-30 minutes.  Make a syrup with 150 g (5 oz 2/3 cup) water and boil for 4-5 minutes. When  cool, add 2 ½ tablespoon white rum and pour this  syrup over the cake while it is still warm.

GENTIAN. A plant from the mountains of Europe, picked especially in the Jura and the Alps.  The root is used as a substitute for cinchona.  Before  the latter was introduced into the Old World (1639), the large yellow gentian (Gentiana latea), the panacea of the mountain dwellers was prescribed as an infusion or  a syrup as a tonic, stimulant and fehrifuge. Nowadays  it is mainly  used for its aperitif and digestive  properties properties. Gentian essence, amber yellow in colour is an excellent bitter tonic with a strong pungent flavour; it is an ingredient of many aperitifs.

GEORGETTE A name given to various dishes at  the end the 19^th century. It was the title of a play by  Victorien Sardou, which had a successful run at the Vaudeville Theatre in Paris in 1885.   Pommes Georgette, which were served for the first time at the Paillard restaurant near the theatre, are potatoes  cooked whole, hollowed out, then stuffed while still  hot with a ragout of crayfish tails a la Nantua.  Poached or scrambled eggs Georgette are served in potatoes with the same garnish. There is also a  georgette soup cream of tomato and cream of carrot mixed and blended with perles da japon (tapioca).  Finally, crepes Georgette are sweet pancakes filled with a salpicon of pineapple  in rum thickened with apricot jam. Sprinkled with sguar and glazed in  the oven.

GERBAUDES A traditional festival held at the end of the harvest in the central provinces of France, also called ‘Revolle’ in Dauphine and  Lyonnais and ‘chien de Mosson’  “Tue-Chien’ or Chien’ in  Franche-Comte, Lorraine, Cote-d’ Or an dChampagne.  Elsewhere, there were different festivals to mark the  end of other great agricultural events, such as  walnut gathering.  The common feature of all these festivals was a gargantuan communal meal, accomapnied by singing and dancing ceremonial dishes were served on these occasions roast cockered  in Sologne, rabbit au sang in Cher and Indre, and tripe in Creuse, collection of legends, religious precepts and rules for  practical living, in which the human body is represented in the form of circle associated with primodial foods palm sugar, wine, ghee, milk, yogurt and water. The best ghee is made of butter from buffalo’s milk (which is twice as rich in fat as cow’s milk). It  is used as an ingredient in pattisserie, as a cooking fat and to enrich vegetable purees, rice and dal.  Among poorer people glace is made of sesame oil or mustard. In Nepal it is made of yak’s milk.

               

RECIPES

Gherkins a la russe

Boil some salted water with caster (superfine) sugar, using 1 tablespoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar per 1 letre (1 ¾ pints, 4 1/3 cups)  water. Allow to  cool completely. Wash some large fresh gherkins in warm water and cool them in cold water. Drain and pat dry.  Lay them in a jar in layers, separating each layer with a few fragments of fennel sprigs and, if available, a few fresh blackcurrant leaves (taken from the ends of the twigs).  Press down well. Fill the jars with salted water ( it should completely cover the gherkins) and leave to marinate in a cool place for at least 24 hours serving.

                When preserving these gherkins, they can be sterilized, but they become softer in the process.

Gherkins picked in vinegar (prepared cold).

Prepare and marinate the gherkins with salt as in the  previous recipe. Then wash in vinegared water; wipe them dry one by one and place them in jars. Add peeled white pickling onions, some fragments of bay leaf, sprigs of thyme and taragon (which have  been scalded, cooled and dried), 2-3 cloves, 1 -  2  small garlic cloves, 1 small chill, a few black pepper-corns and a few coriander seeds. Cover with white  vinegar, seal  the jars hermetically and store in a cool place.  These gherkins can be eaten after 5-6 weeks, but they will improve with time (up to a year).

Gherkins pickled in vinegar (prepared hot)

Rub the gherkins with a rough cloth, then place them in a terrine. Add some coarse salt, stir and  leave for 24 hours. Remove the gherkins and dry them by one. Place them in a terrine and cover  with boiled white wine vinegar.  Marinate for about 12 hours. Strain off the vinegar and add 500 ml (17 fl. oz. 2 cups) fresh vinegar, bring to the boil and, white still boiling, pour over the gherkins. Repeat the process the next day, then leave to cool completely.  Scald some jars with boiling water and  let them dry lay the gherkins in them in layers, adding  seasoning every 2 layers (fragments of bay leaf,  sprigs  of thyme and tarragon, which have been scaled, cooled and dried, cloves and 1 – 2  chillies per jar).  Cover with vinegar, seal the jars with cork stoppers and store in a cool place.

GIANT GRANADILO Known as barbadine in Africa.  This  is a climbing  plant originally from South America, introduced  to the West Indies in the 19^th  century. Related to the passion flower, it green avoid fruits are 20-30 cm (8-12 in).   long.  When unripe they are used as vegetables in the same way  as squashes or vegetable marrow As they ripen they become yellowish, and their tart, whitish flesh is then used as for passion fruit, for example in the  preparation of drinks, jams and sorbets. The bark of the plant is used to made a jelly.

GIBELOTTE A  savoury stew of rabbit in white or red wine. The word derives from the Old French gibelet (platter of birds), which was prepared in this  way.  Pieces of rabbit are browned in the fat of blanched and sautéed  bacon. They are then floured,  put in a cocotte with the bacon, some  small  onions and a bouquet garni, and moistened with bouillon  and wine. Mushrooms are added during cooking, and pounched liver when the rabbit is cooked. In  Quebec a gibelotte is a ragout of various  vegetables  and fish.

GIBLEST The edible inner parts of poultry, including the gizzard, heat, liver and kidneys, plus the external giblets -  the head, neck, pinions (wingtips) and feet.

                The external giblets of large poultry (chickens, turkey, greese) can be  bough separately in France and are used to make ragouts, fricassees and pot-au-feu.  Giblets are a common ingredient in French home cooking, the internal gablets being used in  stuffings, garnishes, terrines, pies and even kebabs of fritters.

§  Duck and goose giblets. Only the neck, gizzard, liver and heart are used.  The feet are not cooked, and the opinions  are not separated from the body. Heart: simply take it out.  Necle, cut it off close to the  head and the body, then remove the skin. Liver, separate it from the entrails, then remove the gall bladder, taking care to cut generously around it in order not to burst the bladder because the bitter bile would make the liver inedible.  Gizzard: remove the thick skin with the tip of a sharp knife and use only the two fleshy parts.

§  Chicken and turkey giblets.  These  are prepared in  the same way, but while the head and feet of the  chicken are eaten, only the turkey’s pinions, heart, liver, gizzard and neck are used. Pinions separate  them from the bird at the first joint and cut them off  at the second.  Neck slice it off close to the head and  body, then remove theskin. Heart and liver prepare  these as duck. Gizzard; slit it on the flesh side without  piercing the graved-sac, which should be thrown away, chicken’s feet. Cut off the claw-joint, then singe and skin the rest.  Head singe the  head of  a chicken (do not use a turkey)

RECIPES

Giblet a la bourgeoise

Dice 100 g (4 oz) thick streaky (slab) bacon and  blanch for 5 minutes in boiling water.  Strain and leave to cool. Prepare (800 g (1 ¾  lb) turkey or  chicken giblets.  Peel 100 g (4 oz) small onions, 300 g (11 oz) baby carrots and a garlic clove. Brown the diced bacon in a sauté  pan in 25 g ( 1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter, lard or goose fat, then strain and remove from the pan. In the  same fat cook the onions until golden, strain and remove. Next brown the giblets (except the liver) in the pan, then add the crushed garlic. Sir well, prinkle on 25 g (1 oz. ¼ cup) flour, and mix in  until coloured.  Add 100 ml (4 fl oz. 7 tablespoons) dry white wine  and let it reduce for a few minutes.  Season lightly  and add a bouquet garni, the bacon, onions and carrots, and 1.15 litres (2 pints, 5 cups) water or poultry stock to cover the giblets. Cover and bring to the boil, then reduce heat and simmer for about 30 minutes.  Add the liver and stir gently, then continue cooking for about 10 more minutes until the  liver is cooked.  Place the giblets and vegetables in a shallow dish and pour the sauce over.

Giblets a la bourguignonne

Prepare as for giblets a la bourgeoise but replace the  carrots by 100 g (4 oz. 2 cups) buttons mushrooms and the white wine by red Burgundy.

GIGONDAS Red or rose AOC wine from vineyards at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail in  the Rhone valley.  The red wines, produced mainly from Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and Cinsaut  grapes, are powerful, spicy and tannic, and the best can be bottle-aged for at least ten years.  Roses, how ever, are usually drunk young.

GIGOT A French cut of meat corresponding to a leg of  mutton or lamb. The  name derives frome the word for an ancient musical instrument (gigue), which had the same shape. The whole gigot  (haunch or long leg) consists of the actual leg itself (or gigol racourici, short  leg) and the muscles extending form it, which form the French out quasi or selle de gigot (chump end – not to be confused with the English saddle).  The  two pieces can be cut and cooked separately: the chump end, tied up with string, can be a very fine roast, whereas the short leg may be roasted, boiled, pot-roasted, braised or  even sliced and grilled (broiled). By  steeping a short leg of mutton in a marinade before  cooking in the oven, it is transformed into gigot chasseur, tasting of venison. The flavour of lamb combines well with garlic, and roast gigot of lamb studded with garlic and garnished with kidney beans is the French traditional dish for family celebrations and special meals. The leg can also be cooked with  white wine, bacon and onions with juniper berries, garnished with red cabbage; or with caper sauce, garnished with steamed potatoes and trunips.  Other  recipes include brochetes a la turque (lamb on skewrs) an ddaubes or braised dishes, such as the famous gigot de sept beures or a la  cuiller, which is cooked for a long time over a very gentle heat, so it can  be cut with a spoon, and  served with the braising liquor strained and  boiled down. Gigot of lamb can also be served cold with aioli, in aspic with a green salad or with a spicy tomato salsa.

                Let of lamb is carved either  paralleled to the home ( the slices are all equally cooked) or perpendicular to the  bone, slightly on the slam (the meat is more tender, but cooking is graduated )  lamb cooked in.

Braised leg of lamb a la bordelaise

Cok a leg of lamb in a mixture of butter and oil in a covered casserole in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4), allowing 40 minutes per 1 kg or 20 minutes per 1 lb., plus an additional 40 or 20 minutes. When one-third done, add 575 g  (1 ¼ lb.) tiny potato balls and 250 g (9 oz.) fresh cep or button mushrooms, lightly tossed in oil.  Season. When the leg and garnish are cooked, sprinkle with  noisette butter in which  4 tablespoons breadcrumbs and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and garlic have been fried.

Braised leg of lamb with spring onions

Calculate the cooking time for a leg of lam at 40 minutes per 1 kg. 20 minutes per 1 lb.  Plus an  additional 40 or 20 minutes. Cook the lamb in a  covered flameproof casserole in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 25 minutes, them drain.  Melt some butter in the casserole.  Lightly coat 1 kg (2 ¼ lb.) spring onions (scallions) in sugar, them fry them  in the butter.  Place the leg of lamb on the  onions and put the casserole back in the  oven.  When the onions have softened, add 2 tomatoes, peeled  and cut into 8 pieces, and 500 ml (17 fl. oz.2 cups) white wine. Complete the cooking process, turning the leg to make sure it is browned all over  and basting it as required with reduced beef stock.

                Remove the leg of lamb from the casserole, draining off all the cooking liquor.  Drain the spring onions.  Cover both and keep hot. Thicken the cooking juices with beurre manie. Carve the lamb.  Arrange the spring onions on plates and coat with the sauce. Arrange the lamb on the plates and serve.

Lea’s roast leg of lamb

Crush 4 anchovy fillets in 4 tablespoons olive oil mixed with 2 level tablespoons mustard, sage, basil,  rosemary and crushed garlic. Rub the meat with  this mixture and marinate for 2 hours, turning from time to time.  Calculate the cooking time for the lamb at 30-40 minutes per 1 kg. 15-20 minutes per 1 lb. Plus an additional 30-40 or 15-20 minutes according to how well cooked you require the meat to be when served. Drain and roast in a prehated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6).

                While the meat is cooking, boil down the marinade with some butter, gradually adding half a bottle of champagne. Strain and thicken with softened butter.

Roast leg of lamb

Stud the leg near the projecting bones with 2-3 cloves of garlic. Cook it on a spit or in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7), allowing 20-22 minutes per 1 kg (9-10 minutes per 1 lb).  Place it on a long serving dish and serve with a  sauce made from the cooking juice, kept quite  fatty, with slices of lemon and chopped watercress.  Roast leg of lamb is accompanied by Franch (green) beans in butter, white haricot (navy) beans in juice, or vegetables prepared a la jardiniere or as a pouree.

                This is the French method for roasting lamb, and  the flesh will be pink.  For fully cooked meat, reduce the oven temperature to 190°C (375°F, gas 5 ) when placing the joint in the oven and allow 45 minutes per 1 kg (20 minutes per 1 lb) and add 20 minutes to the total time.

Roast leg of lamb en chevreuil

Completely skin a very fresh leg of lamb and lard with lardons.  Then put it in a special marinade; see chevreuil, en. Leave it to steep for some time, depending on the tenderness of the meat and the temperature (2 days in summer, 3-4 days in winter).  Dry the  leg with a cloth, then roast. Serve a roebuck sauce or a poivrade sauce separately

Roast leg of lamb with 40 cloves of garlic

Desalt some anchovy fillets. Trim a leg of lamb as necessary.  Stud it with silvers of garlic (2-3 cloves) and the anchovy fillets cut into fragments. Brush  with a mixture of oil, thyme, powdered rosemary and pepper. Roast on a spit or in the oven as for roast leg of lamb, basting occasionally with a little  of the herbs and oil. As the meat starts to cook, put 250 g (9 oz)  unpeeled garlic cloves into boiling water after boiling for 5 minutes, drain the garlic and put into a saucepan with 200 ml (7 fl oz.  ¾ cup) stock. Simmer for 20 minutes.  Add a small cup of this liquor to the meat juices and pour over the  meat. while completing the cooking wash some  watercress thoroughly in running water and chop coarsely. Arrange the leg on a serving dish, surround by the cloves of garlic and chopped watercress. Serve the juice in a sauceboat.

Split-roast leg of lamb with parsley spit-roast a leg of lamb. Before cooking is completed, cover it evenly with a layer of fresh breadcrumbs mixed with chopped parsley and possibility some chopped garlic. Finish cooking the lamb until the surface turns golden brown.  Put it on a long serving dish and garnish with chopped watercress and halved lemons. Serve the juice separately.

GIGUE Haunch of roebuck or deer, also called cuissot in Franch. Once the sinews are drawn a haunch is usually studded with lardons, marinated if necessary, then roasted in a preheated oven at 200°C 9400°F, gas 6).  Allow 30 minutes per 1 kg. 15-18 minutes per 1 lb. Celeryor chestnut puree, mushroom fricassee and red- or whitecurrrant jelly are the  conventional garnishes.

GILBERT, PHILEAS French cook (born la Chapelle-surDreause, 1857; died Couilly-Pont-aux-Dames, 1942. After an apprenticeship as a cook/ astrycook in Sens, he travelled around France, working with Escoffer, Emile Bernard, Ozanne and Monagne. He  became a great practitioner, theoretician and scholar.  The author of numerous books, including la Cuisine retrospective, 1  Cuisine de tous les mois and L’Alimentation et la Technique culnaire a  travers les ages, b collaborated in the writing of Escoffier’s Guide culinaire.  He wrote numerous articles in professional magazines and cookery journals, becoming know for raging controversies with his colleagues.

GILLIERS.  The official chef of King Stanislas Leszezynski.  In 1751 he published Le Camameliste francais (camamelisie comes from cammamelle or came a mel, an old French term for sugar canel.  This is a valuable document both for its history of  friandises (sweet delicacies) and for its illustrations by Dupuis, engraved by Lotha, which depicted the masterpieces of 18^th-century glassware and gold smiths’ work.

GIMBLITTE A  small ring biscuit (cookie) in the  shape of s crown, a speciality of Albi. The word seems to come from the Italian ciambella (a ring shape cake similar to an echaude). The dough-made from flour, gournd almonds, sugar, egg yolks yeast and grated criton, orange lemon rind (zest) -  is not the same as that for echaudes, but the cooking principles is the same the biscuits are first immersed in boiling water, then drained, dried and  browned in the oven. Fernande Moliniet, a pastry-cook in Albu and author of Recberches historiques sur les specialities gourmandes du Tarn, thinks that gimblettes were invented by the monks of Nonterre, who entrusted the recipe to the canons of Albi in the 15^th century.

RECIPE

Orange gimblettes

Grate the rind (zest0 of half an orange on a lump of sugar, crush the sugar to a fine powder and mix it  with caster (superfine) sugar so that the whole amount measures 175 g (6 oz., ¾  cup). Pound thoroughly 100 g (4  oz. 2/3 cup) fresh almonds.  Place  225 g (8 oz. 2 cups) sifted plain (all-purpose) flour in a circle around this mixture, and in the centre put 15 g (1/2 oz. 1 cake) fresh yeast dissolved in  70 ml (2 ½ fl oz. ¼ cup) milk.  Add 50 g (2 oz, 4 tablespoons) butter, 2 egg yolks, a pinch of salt, the almonds and the orange-flavoured sugar.  Knead all these ingredients  in the usual  way and leave the dough in a warm place for 5-6 hours to allow the yeast to ferment.

                Knock back the dough and divide it into 5-6 strips, each the with of a little finger.  Cut the  strips diagonally into pieces 13 cm (5 in) long.  Make  these into little rings so that  the joins are invisible . drop the rings into a large saucepan of boiling water. Stir gently with a spatula for a few minutes to prevent the rings from sticking and to bring them to the surface. Drain them and drop them into cool water. When cold, drain again, them toss to dry them.

                Dip each ring in a little beaten 2gg (2 eggs should be used in all) 2-3 times. Leave them to drain for few minutes. Arrange them carefully on 3 lightly greased baking sheets and bake them in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6) for 20-30 minutes, until they are a good colour.

                Little plaited biscuits (cookies) or little rolls about as long as a  thumb can also be made this way. These gimblettes  may also be flavoured with the  rind (zest) of lemon, citron or Seville (bitter) orange, or with aniseed, vanilla or orange-flower water.

GIN pure alcohol, distilled  usually from grain, into which are infused aromatic  plant products, particularly oil of jumper. The two basic types are Dutch and British. Dutch gin (genever), directly stemming from medicinal compounds evolved in the Netherlads in the 16^th century, is heave aromatic, it is  usually drunk chilled and neat. Dry gin, the universal style, originated in London in the 1879s. Much lighter and more popular than the older genever, it is essentially a versatile mixing spirit – with tonic water, juices and in numerous cocktails. Dry gin is  made in many countries, with many premier brands carrying English names flavoured gins have  declined, but sloe gin is still popular in Britain and the United States. Gin’s culinary uses are confined  mainly to offal and game dishes.

GINGER A  plant of South-east Asian origin that is cultimated in hot countries for its spicy, aromatic rhizomes (underground stems), which are used fresh, preserved in sugar or powdered. Widely appreciated   in the Middle Ages ginger was used as a flavouring and as a sweetmeat. Since the 18^th century it has fallen out of use in classic European  cookery, except in patisserie and confectionery, biscuits (cookies), cakes, pickles and jams, particularly in Britain, Alsace and the Netherlands, and for flavouring drinks.  However, it continues to be an important seasoning in eastern cookery – fresh or dried, grated  or preserved in sugar, syrup or vinegar.  In India and  Pakistan it is used to flavour curries, meat, fish in  sauce, rice and vegetables purees, and to flavour tea. In China  and Japan it is widely used fresh, shredded in court-bouillon, marinades  and soups.  It is an essential seasoning for fish and whale fillets. It is  also eaten pickled between courses.  In south-east.  Also crystallized (candied) ginger is the most widespread sweetmeat.

RECIPE

Ginger cake

Cut 100 g 94 oz. ½ cup) preserved ginger into very small cubes.  Soften 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) butter with  a wooden spatula.  Vigorously whisk together 3 large eggs, 1 tablespoon rum and 2 tablespoons hot water.  When the mixture  is thick and foamy, gradually add 175 g (6 oz. ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, continuing to whisk, Sift together 250 g (9 oz. 2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour and 2 teaspoons baking powder, make a well in the middle and blend in the beaten eggs, the softened  butter and the ginger.  Mix well and pour into a buttered marigue mould or deep sandwich tin (layer cake pan) 22 cm (8 ¼ in)  in diameter. Bake in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7) for about 40 minutes.

GINGER ALE Aereated water to which colouring and ginger essence are added, often used to make gin or whisky into a long drink.

GINGER BEER A fizzy soft drink, traditionally widely consumed during summer months in Britain.  One traditional method of making home-made ginger beer is from a ginger ‘plant’, by fermenting ground ginger and sugar with yeast in a small amount of liquid for about a week. Sugar is added daily to ‘feel the plant.  At the end of this fermentation, the plant is strained and the liquid diluted with lemon juice, water and sugar, then bottled.  The bottles  have to  be stored with their caps loose initially then, when fermentation has subsided, the caps are tightened and the bottles stored in a cool place.  The  result is a bubbly, spicy, lemon drink.

GINGERBREAD  British Gingerbread is a cake  flavoured with ginger and trache  (molasses). The French equivalent (pain d’epice), whose  name means literally ‘spice bread’, is a cake with a basis of  flour, honey and spices (it need not contain ginger). The use of honey as the only sweetening product for breads or cakes goes back to ancient times .  aristophanes mentions melitunta, which was made  with sesame flour, eggs and fresh cheese, and  coated generously with honey after cooking. The  Romans prepared penis mellitus with German wheat flour, honey, pepper and dried fruit.  The Chinese making (honey bread) is mentioned as part of the rations of the horseme of Genghis Khan. It is generally) believed that Gingerbread was introduced to Europe during the time of the Crusades. At  Pithiviers, however, it is held that Gingerbread was  introduced into the city by St. Gregory, an American bishop who took refuge there in the 11^th century. Whatever the case, it was from that time that the manufacture of Gingerbread special into the Neitherlands, Britain, Germany, Belgium, France and Italy.

                The guild of pain d’epiciers, founded at Reims, was officially recognized by Henri IV in 1596.  Accroding to  A. Sloamovici in Ethbnocuisine de  la Bourgogne (1973), pain d’epice ‘was the monopoly of the city of Reims,  and at first manufactured exclusively with rye flour. In Burgundy, however, the boichet or boichee, made with wheat flour, honey and leaven, had been known since the 14^th century, and  gauldery bread, made of honey and millet flour, was known in the 25^th century.’  Reims retained the monopoly until the Revolution, then Dijon, where the local production gave rise to a  flourishing trade, took it cover.

Gingerbread was formerly regarded primarily as a fairground delicacy. In Paris the Gingerbread  Fair, which became  the Throne Fair in the 19^th century, had been held since the 11^th century on the site of the present Saint-Antoine Hospital, where there  was then an abbey. The monks sold their  won ginger bread cakes there, in the shape of the little pigs. Gingerbread was sold in many different shapes (animals, little men, flowers) as well as the large traditional pure or the ball.  Belgium speculos, which are made  of gingerbread, depict all kinds of popular characters (harlequin, Columbine, Saint Nicholas).

                Today two types of gingerbread are made in  France that of Dijon, made with wheat flour and  egg yolks; and couque, made with rye flour. The  demi-couque, or couque batarde, made with a mixture of flours, is used mainly for the large gingerbread pure loaves. In industrially manufactured  products, the honey is totally on partially replaced by  other sweetening agents (invert sugar, glucose, grape must) and the spices are often artificial essences. However, it is always prepared according to the traditional method: the flour and sweetening agents are  mixed together and matured in a cool, dry place for  about a month (formerly for several months). It is  then mixed with baking powder and spices, shaped, glazed with mil and eggs, and baked in the oven Ordinary gingerbread is baked in pave loaves, while fancy gingerbread is cut into hearts and various other shapes.

                Although it is eaten mainly  at teatime or at festivals (particularly in Belgium and Germany), gingerbread also has some uses in cookery, for thickening sauces, ragouts and carbonades, especially when beer is used in the recipe.

                Gingerbread can easily be made at home.  The best results for pain d’epice are achieved with a strongly flavoured honey, traditionally buckwheat or heater honey.  Wheat flour is generally used (sometimes mixed with rye flour), and flavourings can  include orange-flower water, orange or lemon rind (zest), star anise or cinnamon, or a mixture of spices  as well as ginger. Orange or apricot a mamalade may also be added to the mixture.  After baking the top of the cake may be decorated with pieces of angel green walnuts or candied  orange peel.

RECIPES

Gingerbread

Warm together 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) margarine or lard (shortening) and 200 g (7 oz. ¾ cup) milk and allow to cool. Sift 200 g (7 z. 2 cups) plain (all-purpose) four, 1 teaspoon mixed spice, 2  teaspoons ground ginger and 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) into a bowl.  Add the treacle mixture , 50 g (2 oz. ¾ cup) brown sugar and 2  eggs.  Beat well. Pour into a 18 cm (7 in). square tin (pan) lined with greaseproof (wax) paper.  Bake  in preheated oven at 150°C (300°F, gas 2 ) for 1 ¼-1 ¼ hours, until firm to the touch

Pain d’epice

Heat 500 g (18 z. 1 ½ cups) honey to boiling point, then skim it.  Place in an earthenware bowl 500 g  (18 oz. 4 ½ cups) sifted plain (al-purpose) flour make a well in the centre, pour the honey into it  and mix a wooden spoon. (some flours absorb more liquid than others; it may be necessary to add more liquid in order to obtain a firm paste.)  Gather  the paste into a ball, wrap it in a cloth and let it  stand for 1 hour.  Then add 2 ½ teaspoons baking powder and knead the paste thoroughly. mix in 2 teaspoons aniseed, a generous pinch of cinnamon, the same amount of powdered cloves and ½ teaspoon grated lemon or orange rind (zest).

                Alternatively, mix the sifted flour directly with the same weight of liquid honey.  Let the paste sand, then knead it hard with 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 2 teaspoons bicarbonate of soda (baking soda). 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) skinned and chopped almonds and 65 g (2 ½ oz. ½ cup) mixed and chopped can died orange  and lemon peel.

                Pour the mixture into a 23 cm (9 in) square cake tin (pan) or a buttered manque mould.  Bake in a  preheated oven at 190°C (375°F, gas 5 ) for about30 minutes, as soon as the cake is cooked, quickly brush the top with some milk sweetened to a thick syrup or with sugar cooked to the fine thread stage (see sugar) and glaze for a few seconds in a  cool oven.

GINGER WINE Water, ginger, yeast, sugar, lemon, raisins, pepper and sometimes alcohol; mixed with whisky to make  Whisky Mac.

GINKGO NUT The oval, pale green fruit of the Asian ginkgo tree. The olive-sized kernel is much used in Chinese and Japanese cooking, either  roasted or grilled (broiled), as a garnish for fish or  poultry or, in the autumn, simply as a dessert nut. A typical dish consist of large prawns (shrimp mixed  with ginkgo nuts, pieces of chicken and mushrooms cooked on hot cooking salt in an earthenware casserole.

GINSING The root of a plant growing in mountainous regions of Korea and Manchuria.  It is considered to be the ‘root of life’  by the Chinese, who have attributed many therapeutic, magical and  aphrodisiac properties to it. Used mainly in a tonic drink, ginseng is also used to make a herbal tea, sweets (candies), pastilles, dyes and ointment. It  can also be presented whole in alcohol or dried and  used as seasoning in the same way as ginger.  Its  taste is similar to that of fennel.

GIRAUMON  A type of ground cultivated mainly in the West indies and some  tropical countries.  There  are two varieties : one with a large fruit (3-4 kg.  6 ½ - 9 lb)., the other with smaller fruit (about 1 kg 2 ¾ lb.), the latter being preferred, because giraumons  do not keep once they are opened .  its finn flesh is sweet  and slightly musky. Also called bounnet turc (turkish bonnet) and citrouille iroquoise (iroquois pumpkins), garamons can be eaten  raw like cucumbers, but are usually cooked like pumpkins, especialy in West Indian cookery (in a ratatouille called giraumonnade and in ragouts). When green, they are used to make jam, and the leave are sometimes used like sorrel.

GIRELLA girelle a small, brightly coloured  Mediterranean rock fish, with spikey rays on its dorsal fin.  Its flesh is delicate and tasty but full of bones.  Girella is sometimes served fried,  but it is used mainly in bouillabaisse.

GITE A LA NOIX  A French cut of beef from the  top of the leg. With the  round of beef, which extends  from it, it was formerly classified as braising meat but is now used for grilling (broiling) and roasting.  The  round of beef is lean, tender and tasty, Gite a la noix  is also used to make steak tartare and beef on skewers. For roasting, it is  larded and tied with string.

GIVRY Red and white AOC wines from the Cote Chalonnaise in southern Burgundy.  The reds are  made from Pinot Noire, the Whites from Chardonnya.  The  Cote Chalonnaise has a proud history and is said to have been plnated with vien since Roman Times.

GIZZARD A digestive pouch in birds, consisting of a thick muscle. If the gizzard is not cooked with the  bird or if it is not minced n the stuffing, it can be fried or roasted separately (particularly duck or  goose gizzard) or prepared in a ragout of giblets.  It  is also often preserved . when a chicken is drawn, the gizzard is slit in two to remove the small stones and the thick envelope that surrounds them.

GJETOST originally made in Norway form goat’s milk whey, this sweet, brown cheese is now factory made from pure goat’s milk or a mixture of cow’s and goat’s milk, which is cooked until caramelized.  The  designation Ekete Gjetosi on the label means that  the cheese is made solely from goat’s milk-gjet means goat in Norwegian . it is moulded in blocks  weighing between 200 g (7 oz) and 4 kg (9 lb.).

GLACE Describing fruits that are crystallized (can died) or in liqueur and petits fours that are coated with a syrup cooked to the ‘crack stage’ so that they have a  had, shiny layer. The word is also used for fruits and chestnuts (marrons glaces0 preserved in syrup.

                In France the term is also applied to many iced desserts and drinks, and to cakes and pastries covered with icing (frosting).

GLASSWARE Common soda glass is transparent or translucent materials made from the fusionof silica  (sand, sodium carbonate 9soda) and calcium carbonate (lime). Crystal glassware is made from flint glass a very clear glass containing lead oxide, silica, potassium carbonate and potassium nitrate, good  quality crystal glass makes a clear ringing sound when struck.  Common and crystal glassware may be engraved, coloured or gilded. In spite of its fragility and poor resistance to sudden changes in  temperature, glass is widely used for table- and kitchenware, no to mention bottles, because of its  transparently and resistance to chemicals.

The history of glass. Egyptian paintings show that the art  glass-blowing was known as far back as  the 4^th century BC, and glass objects have been in  existence for more than 5,00 years, until the Middle Ages, however, pottery utensils were more  common in ordinary household, glassware being rather rate  and served for luxury use. The glass industry in  France dates from  the Gallo-Roman era. In the 6^th century the glassware of Clotaire I consisted of concshaped, stemless goblets, their borders decorated with a fine strip of coloured glass. There were also bottles and  white-enamelled dessert cups. But the  use of glass in tableware as we know it today did not come until the 14^th century.  The 16^th-century Venetian glass-blowers where the first to obtain a  colourless glass which they named cristallo.  Shortly afterwards, the glass-makers of Bohemia discovered that clear glass could also be made by adding limestone to the glass paste. However, it was an Englishman,  George Ravenscroft, who in 1675 discovered lead crystal.  In France the Cristallieries de Baccarat dates, in its present form, from 1816.

§  The industrial and technical progress made during the 19^th and 20^th centuries has produced a wide  range of drinking glasses.  Venetian glass ornamented with filigree work, heavily glasses ornamented with filigree work, heavily patterned  Bohemian crystal, coloured and engraved tall wine glasses from the Rhine and wide-mouthed  flute glass from Dutch glassworks have become collectors’ items.  Coloured glass is not  often used for wine glasses, so that the natural colour of the wine may be  appreciated. The wine glass should never be completely filled, and it must be wide enough for the aroma of the wine to be appreciated,  since part of the  pleasure of drinking wine is to sample its bouquet.

§  Glassware for a formal meal, three matching glasses are required (in decreasing size) for water, for red wine and for white wine. The set is sometimes completed by a champagne flute. However, it is inadvisable to set out too many glasses, because they can get in the way of the cutlery and the  setting is, therefore, often reduced to two glasses, one for  water and the other for wine. For an informal meal, the latter may be used for several different wines or be changed in the course of the meal.

Glasses come in a wide range of shapes and sizes .  most wine-producing regions have designed thin walled glasses of a particular shape to allow the best possible tasting of their wine glasses are used for Cognac, Armagnac and marc  brandy; liqueur glasses are usually short and narrow, made of thicker glass and often without a stem. Beer  is served in a tankard or tall glass.  ‘short’ cocktails are served in a cocktail glass of 80-120 ml (2 ½ - 4 fl.  oz ¼- ½ cup) capacity, while long drinks are served in a tall 300 ml (10 fl. oz., 1 ¼ cups0 Collins glass.  Large glass goblets may be used for mineral water and fruit cups, medium goblets for wines and for aperitifs with water or a mixer, and small goblets for dry aperitifs, port and short drinks, such as sherry. There are also various specially designed  glasses, such as champagne tulips and brandy goblets.  A mixing  glass may be used instead of a cocktail shaker to prepare  cocktails, it has capacity of 600-700 ml (20 fl oz., 2 ½ cups).

GLASSWORT A small fleshy plant, also called  marsh samphire, with salty sap. It  grows in European salt marshes as far north as Norway and also in the camargue (mistral calls it sans-souiro).  It is  similar to rock samphire. The plant is harvested in summer for its tender green tips, which an be eaten in  a salad, cooked like French(green) beans or pickled and used as a condiment, like gherkins (sweet dill pickles.).

GLAZE OR STOCK GLAZE glace de cuisine A syrup substance obtained by boiling down an unthickened stock of meat, poultry, more rarely game, or even fish.  Stock glazes are used  as an  essence to be added to certain sauces in order to  enhance their flavour or to baste dishes to be browned  in the oven. They are also used as the base for a sauce when adding other ingredients.

                Stock glazes may be sued to  speed up the  preparation of soups, coulis and aspics. Ready-made meat glazes, marketed as ‘extracts’ or ‘essences, are available, they are mostly made of beef and  vegetable matter. They after a more limited range of  flavours than cooked glazes, but the latter no longer play as important a role in cooking as they used to because they take a long time to prepare, as is demonstrated in this impressive recipe taken from secrets de la nature et de l’art concenant les alimetns (1769).

                ‘Take a quarter of large ox, a whole  calf (or a party only, depending on its size), two sheep, two dozen old hens  and two old cocks, or  a dozen old  turkeys, pluched and drawn. After defatting all this  meat and scalding  and cleaning the calf’s and  sheep’s feet separately, put It all in a large boiler.  Add the hot liquor from 12-14 litres of stag’s horn gratings, boiled separately, and put through the  press. Then pour four buckets of spring water over it all. Put the lid on the boiler, sealing the edge with a  flour-and-water paste.  Apply a weight of 50-60 pounds.  Boil the meat over a low even flame; without skimming it, for 6 hours or more if necessary, until it is  sufficiently cooked, when the bones can be easily detached.  Remove the largest bones, leaving the boiler over the heat to keep the meat very hot.  Take  the meat our as quickly as possible; chop it up immediately and then part it in large press with hot  iron planes to extract all the juices as soon as the operation is completed, add the extracted juices to the hot stock left in the boiler and  strain immediately through a large horsehair strainer’

                The word ‘glaze’ is also used for any substance used to give food a glossy surface

RECIPE

Meat glaze

Glace de viande Remove all the fat from a brown stock.  When it is as clear as possible, boil it down by half.  Strain through a muslim cloth (cheesecloth), then boil it down again and strain.  Continue this  process until it will coat the back of a spoon, each time reducing the temperature a little  more as the glaze becomes more concentrated. Pour the meat glaze into small containers and keep them in the  refrigerator.

                A similar method is used with a poultry or game  stock to obtain a poultry or game glaze.

                By  boiling down a fish fumet to a syrupy consistency, then decanting it and straining it through  muslim a light-coloured fish stock is obtained, which is used to enhance  the flavour of a fish sauce or to pour over fish before putting it in the  oven.

GLAZING The process of creating a glossy surface on food.  This may be achieved by several method according to the effect required.

                Gold food is brushed with such glazes as arrowroot, aspic, jelly, stock glazes and sugar syrup.

                Desserts, such as fruit tarts and flans, babas and  savarins, are coated with a fruit glaze, a liquid jelly made from finely sieved apricot jam or redcurrant jelly, usually with gelatine added. Ass well as being decorative, this prevents the fruit from drying out or oxidizing.

                Food that is  to be baked, particularly pastry, is coated with whole beaten egg, egg yolk only, milk or milk and sugar

                Hot cooked food, particularly vegetables, can be glazed either by cooking with butter, sugar and very little liquid or by brushing with melted butter when cooked.

                Food coated with sauces that are rich in egg yolk, cream or butter is grilled 9broiled) under, or baked in, a very high heat to forma shiny brown surface.

                In France the term glacage is also used for glazing cakes with icing (frosting) and for the preparation of many cold or frozen desserts and chilled drinks.

CLOUCESTER A traditional English cow’s-milk  cheese, with a firm, close texture. Double Gloucester is langer than Single Gloucester, which is seldom made now.  The  main difference is that Single Gloucester is made with skimmed evening  milk and  whole morning milk, while Double Gloucester is  made with whole milk.  Gloucester is compact and  smooth, with a delicate and creamy flavour. It is  sued for  making sandwiches and canapes, but it is  also sometimes served as a dessert, with a salad or a  fruit campote.

GLUCOS The simplest of the carbohydrates and the end  product when carbohydrates digested by the body.   Glucose is present in the blood and is used as a source of energy by the body.  It is found naturally in ripe fruit and honey.

                Glucose is made industrially by heating starch with various acids.  This  produces dextrins first and then an impure form of glucose itself. Two forms of  glucose are used commiercialy, viscous and semi solid.  Glucose has many inudstrial uses, notably to  increase the sugar content of wine and bee, and in  the manufacture of syrup, confectionery and jam. Liquid glucose (corn syrup or clear corn syrup in America) is a clear syrup of glucose and other  sugars. It is used in the preparation of sugar paste and  to prevent sugar syrup from crystallizing.

CNOCCHI Small dumplings made of flour, semolina (semolina flour), potato or choux pastry. They  are usually poached, then they  maybe cooked au gratin in the oven and served as a hot entrée. This dish is Italian in origin (the word means ‘lumps’)  and is classified with pasta, but is is also found in Austro-Hungarian and Alsatian cookery in  the form of Knepfle, knodel, noques or quenelles, which  are all quite similar.

                Italian gnocchi alla Romana are made with  semolina, egg and cheese; gnocchi a la parisienne are prepared from chorux pastry with milk and  cheese; and gnocchi a la plemontaise or a l’alasacienne are made with potato puree, eggs and flour. The basic ingredients can be varried by incorporating  various cooked vegetables (pumpkins, spinach, green vegetables, beetroot), which colour the gnocchi, by varying the cheese (Emmental, Parmensan, Ricotta) or the flour (maize, wheat); and by including chicken liver or brains, herbs and condiments (nutmeg, fines herbes, paprika, oregano, parsley).

RECIPES

Potato gnocchi

Cook 3 medium-sized potatoes in boiling salted  water for about 20 minutes.  Meanwhile grate 6-7 medium-sized peeled potatoes  and squeeze  them in a cloth to extract  as much water as possible.  Peel and mash the cooked potatoes, then mix  them with the grated raw potatoes.  Add 100-125 g (4-4 ½ oz. 1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, then 2 whole 2 eggs, one after the other.  Mix thoroughly.  Boil some  salted water use 2 spoons to shape the paste into small, round portions.  Drop them into the water and leave to simmer for 6-8 minutes.  Drain the gnocchi and place them on a cloth.  Butter a  gratin dish and arrange the gnocchi in it, coated with 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) crème fraiche and sprinkled with grated cheese. Brown  in a very hot  oven.

Gnocchi a la parisienne

Make some choux pastry using milk instead of  water and flavour with grated nutmeg.  Add 75 g (3 oz. ¾ cup) grated parmesan per 500 g (18 oz) dough.  Boil some salted water, using 1 tablespoon salt per 1 litre (1 ¾ pints.  4 cups).  Push the dough through a piping (pastry) bag fitted with a large  plain nozzle sot that it drops into the water if piece measuring about 3 cm (1 ¼ in.).  poach for a few minutes, then drain and arrange on a cloth.  Line a gratin dish with Mornay sauce, place the  gnocchi in it, cover them with more sauce, place the gnocchi in it, cover them with more sauce, sprinkle  with grated Gruyere, and pour over melted butter. Brown quickly in a preheated oven at 250°C (480°F, gas 9).

Gnochi alla Romana

Pour 125 g (4 ½ oz. ¾ cup) semolina into 500 ml  (17 fl oz. 2 cups) boiling milk and stir to obtain a very thick smooth porridge.  Add salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, then 100 (g 14 oz. 1 cup)  freshly grated permesan cheese and 25 g (1 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter. Allow to cool slightly and  then  beat in 1 lightly beaten egg and 1 yolk.

                Spread the paste evenly on a moistened  slab or in a tin (pa), leave to cool completely, then chill until firm. Cut with a pastry (cookie) cutter into  rounds about 5 cm (2 in) in diameter.  Arrange the rounds in a buttered gratin dish and sprinkle with extra grated Parmesan cheese.  Pour over melted butter and brown slowly in the oven. Alternatively, deep-fry small balls of this paste, drain on paper towels and serve immediately, with tomato sauce if  liked.  (The paste can also be made without butter  or grated cheese.)

Gnocchi with herbs and tomatoes

Wash 500 g (18 oz).  Potatoes and bake them in their  skins in a preheated oven at 180°C  (350°F, gas 4 ) for 40 minutes.  Peel them white still hot and  mash them to a puree.  Arrange them with a well in the middle and allow to cool.  Peel and seed 500 g (18 oz).  Ripe tomatoes and cut into small cubes. Chop up ½ onion, 1 shallot and 1 small celery stick. Heat some olive oil in a sauté  pan and stir in the onion, shallot, celery and I garlic clove. Remove  the later when it is golden. Now add the tomatoes, fry for a few minutes, then add a little basil, rosemary sage and mint.  Season with salt and pepper and reduce the cooking juices. Then  add 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) plain(all-purpose) flour2 pinches nutmeg.  3 egg yolks and 50 g 92 oz. ½ cup) freshly grated Parmesan cheese to the potato puree.  Add a little flour to make a ball that is neither  too dry nor too moist divide into 100 g (4 oz). Chunks and shape into cylinder on  a floured surface. Cut  the cylinders into small pieces and press them to the  back of a fork to  make a slightly concave shape with ridges. Poach the gnochi for 6-8 minutes in boiling salted water.

GOAT A domestic animal bred mostly for its milk. In France, where a wide variety of goat’s-milk cheese is produced, the main rearing areas are Poitou, Berry, Dauphine and Touraine.

                Goat’s meat is fairly firm. With a pleasant flavuor  but a strong  smell. It is  consumed principally in the  regions where the goats are bred; when the animal is young, it is eaten roasted or marinated, sometimes even smoked and dried (in the mountains). The  male (bouc) is today eaten only when a kid, but for   centuries, in spite of its leathery flesh and pungent smell it was a basic meat of the poor, the word boucherie (butcher’s shop) is derived from bouc.

GOAT’S-MILK CHEESES cheveres in France cheeses prepared exclusively form goat’s milk contain at  lead 45% butterfat.  Mic-chevre cheeses are made from a mixture of cow’s milk and goat’s milk (at least  25%). Among the best known French goat’s-milk cheeses are cabecou, Chabichou, Chevreton, Crotin, Poulgny-Saint-Pierre, Saitne-Mure, Selles-sur-Cher, valencay.

                Goat’s milk is a increasingly being used in order  countries to make  both hard and soft cheeses include MinGabhar from Country Wexford in Ireland, Forroche, Tymshoro, Vaulscombe and  Wigmore from Englant and Wales; and Coach Farm and Cypress Grove  in the United States of America. Firm goat’s – milk cheeses include.  Ticle  More  from Devon and Ribbles-dale from Yorkshire in England, from Yorkshire in England; Pen y Bont from Wales; and Idaho Goatster in the United States of America.

GOBLET A wide-mouthed drinking vessel. Antique goblets were made of gold and silver, often exquisitely engraved and embellished with precious stones

GOBO A root of a variety of burdock. It is long, thin and brown, and is commonly used in Japan a  condiment, finely chopped usually blanched.   Gobo has a flavour similar to that  of cardoon and is  used in cooking stocks and vegetables mixtures.

GOBY gobie A small sea fish, known in France asgoupon de mer, of which there are numerous types. Its flesh has a delicate taste, but because it is so  small it is usually served fried.

GODARD A classic garnish for large cuts of meat, poultry, and calves’s sweetbreads. According to the  dictionaries de l’Academic de gastronomes, it was dedicated to the farmer-general and man of letters  Godard d’Aucour 17-16-95) , but other authorities say that it is  named after the  chef the cusine of the Elysee Palace at the time  of Sadi-Carmot. The garnish consists of quenelles.  Lamb’s sweetbreads and glazed), cockscombs and kidneys, small  truffles  and fluted mushroom caps. These are covered by a sauce made of white  wine or champagne  with a  ham mirepoix.

RECIPE

Godard sauce

Cook 2 tablespoons ham mirepoix in butter, add 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) champagne, and boil down by half.  Moisten with 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾  cup) demi-glace sauce and 7 tablespoons mushroom essence and boil down again by one one-third strain.

GODIVEAU The delicate forcemeat, consisting of veal and fat, used to make quenelels, which are served as hot entrée or used to fill vol-au-vent or used to fill vol-au-vent or to accompany meat dishes. The word seems to be a  corruption of gogues de veau (goguees of veal).  Godiveau can also be made from fish (pike in particular) or poultry. The mixture, which must be very smooth, spring and yet firm, requires quite along preparation time, because the raw meat and fat are pounded with cream or panada, eggs  and  seasoning.

RECIPES

Godiveau Iyonnais

Pound together in a mortar 500 g (18 oz) trimmed diced beef suet, 500 g (18 oz) frangipane panada  and 4 egg whites (these ingredients may first be put through a blender0.  Add 500 g (18 oz) pike flesh and season with salt and pepper. Work vigorously with a spatula, then with a pestle, rub through a fine sieve, place in an earthenware dish and work with a spatula until smooth.

                The forcemeat is shaped into quenelles and poached in salted water when  served as a garnish for pike.

Godiveau with cream

Chop up 1 kg (2 ¼ lb)  fillet of veal and pound it. Also  chop up and pound 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) beef suet. Mix these ingredients together and add 1 tablespoon salt , ¼ teaspoons  pepper, a pinch  of grated  nutmeg, 4 whole eggs and 3 egg yolks, grinding vigorously with a pestle the whole time, rub the  forcemeat through a fine sieve and spread  it on a board.  Leave on ice or in the refrigerator until the next day.  Put the forcemeat back in the mortar and pound it again, gradually adding 750 ml (1 ¾ pints, 3 ¼ cups) single (light) cream.

                To test the consistency of the godiveau, poach a small ball and rectify if necessary, adding a little iced water if it is too firm or a little egg white  if it is too  light. Shape  into quenellies and poach.

GOGUES Savoury black puddings 9blod sausages) that are  specifically of Anjou. Made of vegetables bacon, cream and blood, they are poached in boiling water, then cut into slices and fried.

RECIPE

Gogoues

Chop 250 g (9 oz) onions, 250 g (9 oz) spinach beet  leaves, 250 g (9 oz) spinach leaves and 250 g (9 oz) lettuce leaves.  Season with salt and pepper, leave to stand for 12 hours, then braise over a very gentle  heat with 40 g ( 1 ½ oz. 3 tablespoons) lard in a casserole. Dice 250 g (9 oz ) fat bacon and cook without browning. Add to the chopped vegetables and season with a pinch of cinnnamon and mixed  spice.  Take of  the heat and add 7 tablespoons double (heaveY0 cream and 250 ml (8 fl. oz. 1 cup) pig’s blood. Adjust the seasoning.  Fill a pig’s intestine with this mixture, twisting it very 10-15 cm (4-6 in) after filling. Poach the gogues in salted water, just below boiling point, for abut 30 minutes. When they rise to the  surface, prick them with a pin to prevent them from  bursting, drain and leave to cool. When they are  cold, cut the gogues into thick slices and brown them  in butter or lard in a frying pan.

GOLD a precious metal used for decorative tableware or as a veneer, in the  form of silver gilt. Gold also has some culinary uses. In the Middle Ages pates and roast birds were wrapped in thin gold leaf.  Even today, chocolates (palets d’or) are decorated with a tiny piece of gold leaf, and minute pieces of gold are suspended in the liqueur Danziger (goldwasser, which  is used to flavour soufle Rotchshild. It is also an authorized  food additive  (e175), a colouring agent for  characterie, confectionery and cake decorations.

GOMPHIDE A fleshy, viscous mushroom that  grows under conifers. It is edible if peeled carefully,  although its flesh turns  black when cooked.  It is usually sautéed  in oil and served with noisette butter and a little fresh cream.

GONDOLE A decoration consisting of a stiffened white table napkin, reinforced by a sheet of greaseproof (was) paper or foil and foled using a particular technique into the shape of a curved horn.  In catering gondoles are used to decorate the two ends of a long dish when serving fish.

GOOSE A migratory bird originally prized as a game bird and later domesticated. The Romans practised the forcefeeding of geese; the preparation  of foie gras there fore has a long history.

                All breeds of domesticated goose are probably descended from the greylag goose.  In France geese providing foie gras may weigh up to 12 kg (26 ½ lb) after fattening ; they are found mainly around  Toulouse, landes and strasboung. White  geese, from  Bourbon or Poitou, are descended from  the snow goose, and  they weight less (5-6 kg. 11-13lb.). laying birds may be kept until they are five or six yeas  old; because the meat is by then very thought and dry, it is usually stewed or preserved table geese are killed at three months, by which time the breast is well developed and the meat has a delicate  flavour.  In areas where geese are bred primarily for foie gras, the reminder of the bird (the meat and carcass, called the paletot0 is sold as it is, or cut up and preserved, or made into rillettes. The gizzard, heart, tongue, neck and giblets are all used in various savoury dishes. Today, in spite of competition from the turkey, roast goose is still the typical dish cooked at Christmas and New Year in Scandinavia  and Germany. Formerly in Britain roast goose with sage and onion stuffing was served at Christmas and Michaelmas. Two famous recipes for cooking goose  come from northern Europe: goose a Pinstar de Vise from Belgium and smoked goose from Pomerania.  Many of the recipes given for cooking turkey and  chicken can be used for goose.

RECIPES

Balotine of goose with Savingny-les-Beaune take  a young goose weighing about  3.5 kg. (8 lb) and  cut off the wings and legs. Bone  the legs and remove the meat from the wings  to make the  forcemeat. Remove the Supremes from the carcass and refrigerate until required.

Stuffed goose legs en ballotines Mines (grind) the reserved wing meat and the liver very finely. Place in  a bowl over a dish of ice and work  the mixture until smooth. Then blend in an egg white followed by  300 ml ( ½ pint, 1  ¼ cups) double  (heavy) cream.  Add salt., pepper and a pinch of cayenne pepper, and 50 g (2 oz. ½ cup) boiled diced chestnuts, stuff the boiled legs with this mixture, shape them into  ballotines and tie them. Spread some slices onion over the base of an ovenproof  dish and lay the carcass of the goose on top. Then place the ballotiens  on top of the carcass and briase them in a preheated oven at 180°C 350°F, gas 4 ) for 45-60 minutes,  basting frequently so that  they remain moist. (The reminder  of the stuffing can be use to make godiveau.)

Chestnut custards (Mix 300 ml (1/2 pint, 1 ¼ cups single (light) cream 3 whole eggs, 150 g (5 oz. ½ cup) chestnut puree and 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) boiled diced  chestnuts.  Butter 8 small dariole  moulds and divide  the mixture among them. Cook in a bain marie in preheated oven at 170° C (325°F, gas 3 0. Leave for  a few minutes before unmoulding.

Onions stuffed with garlic puree Blanch 8 medium sized Spanish onions in fast-boiling salted water,  refresh them and drain them carefully. Peel 500  g (18 oz) garlic cloves, cook them in milk, drain them  and rub them through a fine sieve.  Reheat them with  a little cream.  Stuff the onions with the garlic  puree, filling them to the top.

Accompanying sauce remove the fat from the  liquor in which the ballotines were braised and deglaze the pan with  a bottle of Savigny-les-Beaune.  Reduce by one-third, strain and thicken the sauce  with 200 g (7 oz. Scant 1 cup) butter.  Adjust the  seasoning.

Fried Supremes fry the Supremes in the goose the until  the outside the golden brown but the inside is still pink.

Presentation on each plate, place a thin slice of supreme, a slice of ballotine, a stuffed onion and a chestnut custard. Pour the sauce around  the items without covering the sliced meant. Serve the rest of the sauce separately.

Goose a la bourguignonne

Dice 100 g (4 oz) blanched lean bacon and  fry it is  25 g (1 oz, 2 tablespoons) butter. Using  the same pan, fry 20 small onions  and then 20 sliced mushrooms. Remove them and brown the goose all over in the same butter.  Remove the goose, deglaze the pan with 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) red wine, boil down  to reduce it by half and then add 400 ml (14 fl. oz. 1 ¾  cups)  demi-glace sauce (or reduced stock).  Boil for 5 minutes and add a bouquet garni. Put the goose back into the pan.  start the cooking  over a high heat, then reduce  the heat, cover the pan and cook gently for 30 minutes. Add the bacon, onions and mushrooms and continue  to cook over a moderate heat, with the pan still covered, for  45-60 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni, and either serve the goose and its accompaniments in  the cooking dish or arrange it on a large serving dish and pour the sauce over it.

Goose a l’alsacienne

Braise some sauerkraut with a small piece of lean bacon, Stuff a goose with 1 sausagemeat seasoned with salt, pepper, a pinch of alispice and a little chopped  onion and parsley.  Truss and roast the goose as for roast  with sage and  onion stuffing, basting it frequently. When the goose is half-cooked, add a little of the  goose fat tot the  sauerkraut and continue cooking.  Poach Strasburg sausages  gently in hereby simmering water. Spread  the sauerkraut over a long serving dish and place the goose in the centre. Cut the bacon into pieces  and orange them around the bird, alternating the bacon with the sausages. Keep everything hot.  Skim the fat from the goose cooking juices and deglaze  the pan with white wine and an equal quantity of stock. Boil  down to reduce. Serve the sauce  separately.

Goose a l’instar de Vise

Take a 3.5 kg (8 lb) goose that  has not yet started laying and poach it in white stock flavoured with  2 heads (bulbs) of garlic for 1 ½ hours.  Drain it, cut into pieces and place these in a sauté  pan. Moisten with goose fat and simmer, with the lid on , until  cooked.

                Meanwhile, prepare a veloute sauce using the  goose fat (for the roux) and the cooking juices from the goose. Cook over a low heat for 1 hour. Thicken the  veloute with 4 egg yolks, then pass it through  a very fine strainer. Add a few tablespoons a cream and a puree of the garlic that was cooked with the goose.

                Drain the pieces of goose and add to the sauce. Heat well and serve in and a deep dish.

Goose en dube Capitole

Stuff the goose with a fine forcemeat mixed with  foie gras and diced truffles.  Truss  and braise it in the usual way. When it is almost cooked, remove  the string used for trussing and pour the braising liquid through a fine strainer. Put the goose back into the pan with 250 g (9 oz.) small mushrooms, an  equal quantity of stoned (pitted) blanched olive  and 250 g (9 oz small fried chopolatas. Pour the cooking juices over the goose and finishe cookingin a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4 ).

Goose hearts en papillotes

Cut 4 large squares of foil.  Place 3 carefully cleaned  goose  hearts in the centre of each square together with 100 g (4 oz) cleaned and sliced  cep mushrooms. Season generously with salt and pepper  and  fold the foil into parcels, sealing the edges thoroughly. Place them on a grilover very hot embers. Cook for about 20 minutes on each  side.

Goose in the pot

The day before it  is required, stuff a young goose weighing about 3.5 kg (8 lb0 with the following mixture: the chopped liver and heart.  2-3 diced applies  and 3-4 desalted anchovy fillets pounded to a paste.  Leave the goose in a cool place for 24 hours.  The following  day make a stock with 20 unpeeled garlic cloves, a bouquet garni and  an onion studded  with 2 cloves. Stud the goose  allover with garlic and poach it in the stock for 1 ½  hours, skimming the pan when it comes to the boil.

                Stew some dessert apples and add to them 2 desalted, pounded anchovies and 1 cup of the strained cooking stock. Prepare some small  gougeres:  for every 2 eggs used for the dough, add 100 g (4 oz) Gruyere cheese and 1 pureed anchovy fillet.

                Serve the goose very hot, accompanied by the apple and garnished with the  gougeres.

Roast goose with fruit

Stuff a goose and roast it as of roast goose with sage and onion stuffing. While  it is cooking poach some  quartered pears in boiling syrup until translucent.  Peel and core some small apples and  sprinkle them with lemon juice. Fill the centres  with redcurrant  jelly. Half an hour before the goose is cooked, place the apples around it  and  bastewith the  goose fat that has  collected in the pan.  complete the cooking. Place the goose on a long serving dish and arrange  the apples and the drained  pear quarters around it. Keep hot at the front of the oven.  Eglzae the cooking pan with a little of the pear syrup, reduce the liquid by half and pour it  into  a sauceboat (gravy boat).

                Stuff the goose with this mixture and sew up the  vent.  Calculate the cooking time at 40 minutes per 1 kg.   20 minutes per 1 lb. in, in  a preheated oven at 180°c (350°F, gas 4 ). Drain off excess fat during roasting. Place it on a long serving dish, pour over  the deglazed cooking juices  and serve with unsweetened or very slightly  sweetened apple sauce.

GOOSE BARNACLE A type of barnacle, which is permanently  attached to a rock by a long, stalk-like  foot. In Biarritz it is called operne, in Brittany it is  caled poche-pez; while in saint-jean-de-Luz it is known as lamperna. It is found in large numbers on rocky reefs battered by the  sea but is so difficult and dangerous  to harvest that it rarely appears on the  dining table.  However, the natives of Biarritz, insist that it is delicious when cooked for 20 minutes in a court-bouillon 9only the foot is edible).  It is the emblem of a  gastronomic society, les chevaliers de  l'Operne, which  is dedicated to increasing the consumption of seafood.

GOOSEBERRY The fruit of the gooseberry bush, a large berry with a slightly hairy, green, ambergreen or pink skin.  The French name, grosseille a maquerean, derives from the use of the fruit to prepare  a sauce traditionally served with mackerel. Gooseberries are  grown on a small scale in France and on  a large scale in the Netherlands and Britain. 

                Depending on type, gooseberries may be eaten raw with sugar or sued to make tarts, sorbets. Fools, jellies and syrups.  The larger, pink, fruit are sweeter than the small green varieties and are known as dessert gooseberries.  They are used in puddings,  chuttneys and fruit salads and in sauces to complement fish and duck.  They freeze well.

RECIPES

Gooseberry jelly

Remove the stalks from 3 kg (6 ½ lb) gooseberries and put them in a pan. cover and heat them, shaking them from time to time until the skins bursts. Puree the fruit in a blender, then strain. Pour the  juice obtained back into the pan. add 2.5 kg (5 ½ lb. 11 cups) granulated sugar and the juice and grated rind (zest) of 2 lemons. Cook over a high heat for  5 minutes, then lower the heat and cook for 15 minutes.  Skim and pot.

Gooseberry sauce

Cook 500 g (18 oz) gooseberries in a saucepan with 500 ml (17 fl. oz. 2 cups) water and 6 tablespoons sugar. When the pulp becomes very soft, strain and serve  piping hot.  If the gooseberries are  very ripe, add a few drops of lemon juice.

Gooseberry syrup

Mix a few tablespoons of water with 1 kg 92 ¼ lb. 4 ½ cups)  caster (superfine) sugar and cook to the  large ball stage (see sugar).  Add 500 ml (17 fl. oz., 2 ¼ cups) strained gooseberry juice.  Bring to the  boil once more and then leave to stand,  skim, then cook until the temperature reaches 103°C (217°F).  Strain, bottle and seal.

GORENFLOT The name of one  of Alexandre Damas’s heroes , a larger-than-life monk who appears  in La Dame de Monsoreau and les Quaranite-Cinq.  In the middle of the 19^th  century, this name was given to a large  hexagonal baba, created by the  Parisian pastrycook Boubonneux, and also to a garnish for pieces of braised meat, consisting  of a julienne of red cabbage, slices of saveloy sausage and stuffed potatoes.

GORGONZOLA A DOP Italian cow’s-milk cheese (48% fat), white or light yellow and streaked with blete Gorgonzola should be delicate and creamy with a natural grey rind, pitted with red. It has  a distinct smell and can have  a mellow, strong or sharp flavour, depending on its degree of maturity (it is  repened dry, in a cold, damp cellar.  Cylindrical in shape, 25-30 cm (10-12 in) in diameter and 16-20 cm (6 ¼ - 8 in) high, it is wrapped in silver  paper bearing its trademark due tot he special manufacturing techniques that  hot curds form the  morning milking are used to the line the moulds, while the  cold curds from the evening milking are placed in the middle.  Contrary to the normal manufacturing  technique for blue cheeses, the mould Penicillium glaucum is not included.

                The history of Gorgonzola is connected with the migration of cattel from the Alps to the south of the plains of the Po. Tired from their journey (structure in the Lombard dialect), the cattle were rested in the  small town of Gorgonzola in the  region of Bergamo.  Their milk  was used to make a soft cheese, Stracchino di Gorgonzola, Apparently, it was not  until the beginning of the 11^th century that this  cheese became blue-veined, although the exact circumstances of this innovation are not known.  In  Lombardy they still make Panerone, a cheese similar  to Gorgonzola, but not a blue cheese.

                Gorgonzola is served  in small cubes with apertitifs, included in mixed salads, spread on canapes or presented sauces for forcemeats and to flavour gratins, souffles and flaky pastries.  In Lombordy hot polenta  may be served with a piece of melted Gorgonzola in the middle.  In the  Trieste area a mixture of Gorgonzola, mascarpone (a fresh creamy cheese), cream, anchovy, paste, cunin, chives and sweet mustard is served as a dessert.

TOTTSCHAL, ALFRED Swiss doctor and scholar born Geneva, 1873; died Paris, 1954). Founder of the medical  gastronomy review Grandgousier (1934-48), he also published  Histoire  de l’alimentation el de la gastronomie (1984) in two volumes. This is a lively and well-documented study, which  describes the way in which people have  eaten and cooked from prehistory up to the 20^th century.  He collaborated with Prosper Montagne in the first edition of the Larousse Gastronomiaue.  Published in 1938.

GOUDA A DOP Dutch cow’s-milk cheese (30-405fat ) with a compressed paste. Firm to the touch, it is light yellow to yellow ochre, depending on whether  it has matured for two  or three months waxed rind, tinged with yellow or colourless), has been semi oven dried (golden rind) or oven dried (yellow rind). Its flavour can be mellow or pronounced.  Gouda owes its name to a small Dutch port near Rotterdam, from which  it was originally exported.  It is made in flat rounds with a curved edge, 25-30 cm (10-12 in) in diameter and 7 cm (2 ¼ in ) high, weighing 3-5 kg (6 ½ - 11 lb.)  in France and Belgium it is  usually made in a rectangular block (galantine) weighing 2-3 kg (4 ½ - 6 ½ lb.) ‘Genuine’, originating in the south of Holland, is protected by a label. Limited all over the world, factory-made Gouada is very similar to Edam both in taste and in the way it is used. The rare farmhouse cheese has a good fruity tang to its flavour on when he saw his skill in producing pieces moulees (decorative set pieces).  Between 1840 and 1855 Gouffee ran a famous restaurant in the Faubourg saint-Honore. Later. Althous Gouffe was semi-retired, Emperor  napoleon III always called upon him to prepare banquets, and Alexandre Dumas and Baron Brisse managed to persuade him to become  the head chef at the Jockey Club.  It was at this time  that he published various culinary works.

                His most important work, liuve de cuisine (2867), was republished several and eventually revised and enlarged by prosper Montagne. His other  works include le Livre de conservs 91869).  Le Livre de  pattsserie (1873) ad le livre des soupes et des  potages (1875).

                His name has been given to a dish consisting of small pieces of sautéed  meat coated with a Madiera-flavoured demi-glace sauce and garnished with potato nests filled with morels in cream and buttered asparagus tips.

GOUGERE Savoury choux, usually in round or ring shapes, flavoured with cheese (Groyere, Comte or  Emmental). In Burgundy cold gougeres traditionally accompany wine-tasting in cellars. Individual or large gourgeres are also served warm as an entrée.

RECIPE

Gougeres

Make 500 g (18 oz) unsweetened choux paste.  After adding the eggs, blend in 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) grated Gruyere cheese and a pinch of white pepper. Butter a baking sheet and shape the dough into  smal balls using a spon or into a ring using a piping (pastry) bag. Brush with beaten  egg, sprinkle with flakes of Gruyere and cook in the oven at 200°C (400°F, gas6 ) for about 20  minutes until golden brown. Leave to cool in the oven with the  heat switched off and the door half-open.

Gougeres with celeriac, celery and cream of caviar.

Fit a piping (pastry) bag with a large fluted nozzle.  Prepare 250 ml (8 fl. oz. 1 cup) gougere pastry. Pipe 4 rings 10 cm (4 in ) in diameter and bake in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9).  Slice in half horizontally and cool on a wire  rack.

                Coarsely chop some frisee; season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Cut celery and celeriac (celery root) into matchsticks.  Mix the frisee, celery and celeraic with 200 ml (7 fl oz. 1 cup) whipped whipping cream and 25 g g (1 oz. 1 generoustablespon) caviar, working very gently with two forks in order not to damage the caviar.

                Arrange a circle of lamb’s lettuce on each plate and place the gougere, bases in the middle. Spoon the cream mixture on the bases and cover with  the gougere tops.  Serve freshly filled, garnished with diced tomato.

GOUJON Small strips of fish, typically place or sole, coated and fried. The name is derived from gadgeon, a small freshwater fish.  The term is also used to describe strips of poultry coated in breadcrumbs and fried.

GOULASH A  Hungarian beef soup named after the keepers of Magyar oxen (gulyas). The origin of  this dish, which is not made with onions and paprika and garnished with potatoes, dates back to  the 9^th century, before the foundation of the Hungarian state, when normadic tribes prepared a meal that was in keeping with their way of life. At that time goulsh consisted of chunks of meat stewed  slowly until the cooking liquid completely boiled  away. The meat was  dried in the sun and could be used later to prepare a stew or a soup by boiling it in water.

                Traditionally, goulash is made in a special cauldron (bogracs). There are  number of regional variants of the recipe according to  the cut of beef and the cooking fat used (pork fat or lard), but purists agree that goulash should not include flour or wine, not should soured (sour) cream b added just before  serving,  Hungarians regards Vinnese Goulash as a flour-thickened version of genuine goulsash  soup; in Hungary the latter is sometimes served with potatoes and csipetke (small quenelles of egg pasta, poached in stock).

RECIPE

Hungarian goulash

Peel 250 g (9 oz) onions and slice them into rings, cut 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb) braising steak (chuck beef) into  pieces of about 75 g (3oz).  Melt 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) lard in  a casserole. When it is hot, put in the meat and  onions and brown them. Add 500 g  (18 oz tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into  quarters, then I crushed garlic clove, a bouquet garni, salt, pepper and finally 1 tablespoon mild Hungarian paprika. Add enough stock to cover the  meat, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat, cover cook very gently for 2 hours, add 600 ml (1 pint, 2 ½ cups) boiling water and 800 g (1 ¾ lb) potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters. Again bring to the boil and continue boiling until the potatoes are cooked. Adjust the seasoning.  Serve very hot.

GOUMI A wild berry that originated in the Far East but is now grown in the United States. The gourmi has a fleshy red or orange skin covered with silvery dots. When raw, its flesh is rather  sour; it is therefore usually cooked and used in compotes or as a filling for tarts.

COURD (SQUASH) The fruit of several plants of the family Cucurbitaceae. Originating in tropical Asia and Africa, they have a thick skin and watery flesh and were used as vegetables marrows, cougettes (zucchini) and various squashes. Pumpkins  are large, round fruits with yellow or red skin and flesh. They are eaten in winter in soups, gratin dishes, purees, souffles and pies.  The  couragette is a summer vegetable, but can now be  obtained all year round.  Squash melons  have firm flesh and a flavour rater like an artichoke.  The very small varieties can be pickled in vinegar. Custard marrows are eaten mostly in the  West Indies.  Winter and muscat squashes (the later do not keep well) are  longer and wider, and tend to be more insipid and watery than courgettes, but they can be cooked in the  same way. Their seeds must always be removed.

                Calabashes and colocynths are grown as ornamentals because of their attractive  colours, shapes and patterned skins.

RECIPES

Marrow au gratin

Peel a large marrow (summer squash) and cut it  into several medium-sized pieces. Blanch  them in salted water for 4-5 minutes, drain and pat then dry.  Place them in a greased gratin dish on a layer of grated cheese.  Pour some melted over the top and brown them in a medium oven.

                Marrow au gratin may also be prepared  with  alternating layers of pieces of marrow and sliced onion (softened in butter) or with rice cooked  in meat stock.

Marrow flower fritters

Pick very fresh marrow summer squish) flowers and was them only if really necessary. Pat them dry, dip them in alight batter and deep-fry them in  hot fat at 180³C (350³F) until golden brown. Drain the fritters, sprinkle with salt and serve very hot as an hors d’oeurvre.

GOURD-MELON An oriental plant, the fruit of which looks like a marrow (squash), taste something  like a cucumber and is eaten as a vegetable  in South-east Asia and China.  It is cooked in water and preserved in vinegar.

GROUMANDSAND GOURMENTS Synonymous until the 18^th century, these two words  later became clearly differentiated a groumand merely enjoy good  food, whereas a gourmet knows how to choose and appreciate it.  In Caracteres, la Bruyere described the  gourmand as follows: ‘Above all, he has a discerning palate which is never deceived, and so he never experiences the  ghastly problem of eating a had stew or drinking a mediocre wine.  In fact, there is a hierarchy that starts  at the bottom with the  goinfre (greedyguts), progress to the goulu (glutton, then the  gtrmand, the friand (epicure) and the gourmet, and finally the gastronome.

GROUTER A light meal eaten in France between lunch and dinner. Until the 18^th century, gouter was eaten at about 5 p.m. and constittuted a proper meal, generally cold, with cakes, cheese, fruit and wine. With the change in mealtimes following the revolutions, gouter was increasingly omitted as noted by Grimod de la Reyniere: ‘Now that people  dine at six o’clock, they hardly ever have a guoter, except children.’ Indeed, nowadays the gouter or quatre-beures  is eaten only by chicken, and  consists of fruit juice, bread, chocolate, biscuits (cookies) and milk.

                Even when it was a full meal, the gouter was  always considered common and unstylish. It was  replaced by the English meal of afternoon tea, with tea  and cakes.  But in the countryside, gouter  alinatoire (high  tea0 was tratitionaly served at the end of the Afternoon, when work in the fields was over. It was so substantial  that it took the place of dinner, a simple snack of soup or milk and bread being served at night.  In Spain, where mealtimes are  later, 6 p.m. marks the middle, of the  afternoon and is the  time for the mirienda, which usually consists  of a cup of coffee or chocolate and cakes 9dinner is eaten at about 10 p.m.

GOYERE a speciality of the north  of France, particularly  Valenciennes.  Its origin dates back to the Middle  Ages. It was originally a cheesecake made with cream cheese, eggs and cassonade (or honey) flavoured with orange-flower water.  Today it is a Maroilles cheese flan: a mixture  of matured and white Maroilles, or of maroilles and drained  cream or curd cheese. It is eaten very hot, as a entiree with fairly strong beer or  red wine. Some  think that  goyere owes its name to a pastrytook called Gohier (hence the old spelling gobiere). Others maintain that  the name is derived from the Old French goguer, meaning to enjoy oneself.

RECIPE

Goyere

Make a short pastry with 250 g (9 oz., 2 cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, 1 egg, 125 g (4 ½ oz. ½ cup) butter and a generous pinch of salt. Roll it out to a thickness of 3 m (1/2 in), line a flan (ple) dish with  it and bake blind for 10-12 minutes. Leave to  cool.

                Remove  the rind from half a Maroilles cheese, cut the  cheese into cubes, and rub through a sieve with 200 g (7 oz., scant 1 cup) well-drained curd cheese. Add to this mixture 3 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons crème fraiche and a pinch of salt. Seasoned generously with pepper and mix well. Pour the filling  into the flan case (pie shel), level the surface and bake in a preheated oven at 220°(425°F, gas 7) for 20 minutes. Take the goyere out of the oven and  trace a diamond pattern on the top with the  tip of a sharp-pointed knife. Dot with cubes of butter and put back in the oven for about 15 minutes.  Serving piping hot.

GOZETTE A small pocket made of puff, shortcrust or yeast pastry in which are placed slices of apple with cinnamon, fried in butter and sprinkled with soft brown sugar.  The gozette pastry is closed and glazed with egg yolk, then baked.

GARDIN A tiered plinth, usually cut from sandwich bread, used for the presentation of cold dishes 9such as chanuds-froids), particularly for buffets.  In former times gardins were widely sued for the presentation of set pieces of confectionery; they were  carved wooden stands, decorated with sugarwork (pastillage), almon paste, sugar motifs and nought. Careme describes this decoration:

                ‘Let us suppose, for example, that you wish to decorate a gradin with laurel leaves.   You first cut out  a laurel wreath in paper. Next you give the base of the gradin  a light coasting of icing and stick the  paper wreath to it.  Now you cover the rest of the  gradin with a medium grade of coarse sugar.  When this is done, you remove the paper after which you sprinkle the imprint of the leaves with green pistchio sugar. Now, you have a lauredl crown surrounding the base of the gradin.

                ‘For a large set piece with three gradins, each one can be  individually decorated.  This creates a graceful and elegant effect.

                I have also sometimes embellished my gradins with laurel crowns made from  biscuit pastry shaped like laurel leaves and coloured green, or with garlands of spun sugar.  This last decoration has both  brilliance and elegance.

                ‘ have also created gradins out of almond paste, moulded in basket moulds.

                But although he favoured the presentation of set pieces on gradins, Careme maintained that young practitioners should not forget ‘that  gradins of German or Italian waffles, of nougat, of glazed duchesse cakes, of puff pastry… of Genese cake or of  corquembouch are immensely effective and truly belong in the realm of the great pastry-making establishments.’

                And, in fact Careme was right all types of gradin mentioned above are edible, whereas the other types, regardless of how decorative  they might be, were mere pieces of wood..

GRAHAM, SYLVESTER, American nutritionist (born West Suffield, Connecticut, 1894; died) Northamption, Massachuesettes, 1851).   He became the leader  of a crusade against the bad eating habits of his compariots, denouncing excessively spicy condiments and  ovenrindulgence in meat. for him, the  cure-all was bran and it was essential to make bread exclusively from wholemeal (whole-wheat) four under his trademark have to be made with flour, containing all the original bran. Graham bread, marketed in the United States and in  Europe since the mid-19^th century, was the first internationally consumed  bread. It is  a wholemeal bread with a very dense texture  and it keeps extremely well.  Graham crackers, still one of the most popular American  biscuits (cookies), are made with wholemeal flour and are named after Sylvester Graham.

GRAINER The French word grainer applies to cooked sugar tending to crystallize and turn cloudy or to a fondant mixture that has been overheated. The world also described whisked egg whites lacking cohesion and the property of holding air. Instead of becoming, thick and foamy, the egg whites form a multitude of small particles when beating stops.  This  defect is often due to greasy equipment. It may be possible to correct this by adding 2-3 drops of vinegar just as the egg whites are beginning to form small bubbles before rising.

GRMMONT A style of serving shellfish cold, usually reserved for lobster and crayfish. The shellfish are first cooked in court-bouillon, then cooked.  The flesh of the tail is made into escalopes (scallops), garnished with slices of truffle and glazed with jelly. The shell is filled with a mouse made from the flesh of the claws and the coral.  The escalopes are place on top, alternating with poached, glazed oysters.  The dish is decorated with lettuce hearts and parsley.

                The words is also used for a classic preparation of  poached chicken, from which the breasts and breasts bone are removed. The cavity is filed with lark fillets, musrhooms tops, and cockscombs and kidneys, bound together with  a bechamel sauce flavoured with truffle oil, on which the breast filelts, cut into thin strips, are laid. The  dish is then covered with sauce supreme, spirnkled with Pamesan cheese and  browned in the ownen.

GRAMOLATE Also known as gramolata. A type of sorbet made from a granita mixture . it is served between main courses of as a refreshment during an  evening party.  It should not be confused with gremolata, a condiment in Italian cookery, which is  made of a mixture of orange and lemon rind (zest), chopped parsley and garlic and is used in ragouts and, mot often, in osso bucco.

GRANA PADANO Cooked pressed AOC Italian cheese made from partly skimmed cow’s milk (32% fat), with a natural crust coated with oil. It is a lightly convex cylinder weighing 24-40 kg (53-88 lb.). known since the 12^th century, it has a very hard, granular texture, and a smoky, slightly rancid taste. In cooking it is often used grated.

GRANCHER, MARCEL ETIENNE  Gastronomic writer and chronicker (born Lons-le-Saunier, 1897); died Le Cannet,  1976). He  settled in Lyn and founded the Academie Rabelais  and the Academe Rabelais and the Academie des Gastronomes Lyonnais. In 1937, together with  Curnonsky, he published a work called Lyn, capitale de la gastronomie.  He  also wrote a number of  novels in which food plays an important part, such as Le Charcutier de Machouvlle (1942), and was a connoisseur of wines, which he describes in De vins d’lleure IV a ceux de Brillat-Savarin (1952).  In Cinquante Ans a table (1953), he describe the achivement of perfection in gastronomy, after centuries of cookery, in the following terms:  ‘We did not immediately come up with bearnaise, Bercy and  poivrade sauces. It took more than a single attempt to discover reduced cream, marinade and forcemeat.  We did not straightway invent  barding fat, the touch of garlic, and the thin slice of truffle under the  skin…. While  genius is spontaneous, its manifestations nevertheless require  the passage of time before  glorious perfection is achieved, this is particularly true in the area of food and drink.. Magical dishes, magical words : a great  cook is, when all is said and done, a great poet… for was it not a visit from  the  Muses that inspired the person who first had the idea of marrying recipe and chicken, grape and thrush, potatoes and entrecote, Parmesan and pasta, aubergine (eggplant) and tomato’s, Chambertin and cocked, liqueur brandy and wood cook onion and tripe?

GRAND-DUC The name given to various dishes created  in the Parisian restaurants  frequented by the Russian aristocracy during the second Empire and at the turn of the 20^th century.  These dishes  contain asparagus tips and truffles. Poached fillets of sole covered with Mornay sauce, arranged in a ring around asparagus tips and crayfish tails and garnished with thin slices of truffle,; soft0boiled (soft-cooked) or poached eggs covered with Monray sauce, browned, garnished with a slice of truffle, placed on a bed of fried croutons or puff-pastry croustades and surrounded by asparagus tips in butter; sautéed  meat served with the cooking liquid mixed with Madeira an dperigourdine sauce, topped  with thin slices of truffl an dsurrounded with bundles of  asparagus tips. Stuffed turkey grand-duc is a  very elaborate recipe created in 1906 by M. Valmy-Joyeuse, while he was a change of kitchens of the Marquise de Mazenda.

RECIPE

Stuffed turkey grand-duc

Slit open a turkey along the pack and stuff with the following mixture: 500 g ml (18 oz0 chicken rubbed through a fine sieve, 500 ml (17 fl oz. 2 cups) double (heavy) cream, 250 g (9 oz) foie gras poached in  port wine and rubbed through a sieve. Mix all these ingredients throughly and season.  Add 12 truffles, peeled and cooked for 10 minutes in a little liqueur brandy, and 24 chicken hearts with the blood vessels  removed, which have been soaked in water, steeped  in white Malaga wine, drained, dried in a cloth, stuffed with a puree of York ham and poached for  15 minutes in truffle essence.

                Carefully reshape the stuffed turkey. Cover with  slices of raw ham or bacon, and enclose in a large layer  of lining pastry, taking care to keep the shape of the bird as far as possible. Bake  in a preheated oven at 180°C (250°F, gas 4) for 2 ½ hours.  During cooking, cover the turkey with greaseproof (wax) paper folded into four, so that it will cook all through  without browning the pastry too soon.  Serve the turkey freshly cooked, with a demi-glace sauce flavoured with truffle essence.

GRAND MARINIER  A liqueur evolved by the Mariner-Lapostolle family firm in 1880. It is based on oranges, and there  are two types. Cordon rouge includes Cognac, cordon jaune is slightly lower in  strength.  Grandi mariner is often used in sweet dishes, such as souffles or with crepes or in whipped cream.

GRAND-MERE Describing dishes similar to those called bone femme or en cocotte.  The term is applied particularly to a chicken casserole served with pieces of fired bacon, small brown-glazed onions, sautéed mushrooms and fried new potatoes. The same garnish can accompany fried entrecote  (sirloin) or rump steak.

RECIPE

Entrecote grand-mere

Prepare 12 small glazed onions, 12 blanched mushroom caps and 50 g (2 oz. 1/3 cup) diced blanched  salt pork or bacon.  Sauté  the steak in butter, browning both sides, then add the vegetables and  bacon to the pan and cook all together. Meanwhile, prepare and fry some small new potatoes until browned.  Arrange the steak on the serving dish surrounded by the garnishes and keep hot.  Dilute the pan juices with a little stock, bring to the boil and pour over the steak. Sprinkle with chopped  parsley and served with the potatoes.

GRABD VEFOUR A Parisian restaurant situated  in the Galerie de Beaujolais in the Palais-Royal. Founded by Aubertot in 1784 and initially called the  Café de Charttres, it was first taken over by charrier, who served English breakfasts and whose scallops with mushrooms were famous, and then (in 1820) by Jean Vedour. Bonapatte, Brillat-Savarin, Murat, Grimod de la Reyniere, Lamartine, Thiers and  Sainte-Beuve frequented this well-poultry mayonnaise. Other  propritors succeeded Jean Vefour, but  the restaurant kept his name. When, under the  Second Empire, one of the Vefour’s brothers opened his own  restaurant in the Palais-Royal, a distinction was  made between the Grand Vefour and the Petis Vefour (which closed in 1920). At the end of the  19^th century the  Vefour ran into difficulties, but after World War Ii Louis Vaudable (whose restaurant, Maxim’s, closed) took it over and in 948 went into partnership with a young chef, Raymond Oliver, who became the maitre of the restaurant two years later. Jean Cocteau and Colette, to whom several recipes are dedicated, frequented the restaurant and helped to establish its excellent  reputations; its 18^th-century décor has remained intact.

GRAND VENEUR A term used to describe dishes  of ground game, roasted or sautéed , covered with  grand veneur sauce (also called venison sauce). This  is poivrade sauce (sometimes made with the blood  of the animal) with redurrant jelly and cream added.  Grand veneur dishes are usually accompanied chestnut puree.

RECIPES

Grand veneur sauce

Prepare a poivrade sauce using the trimmings of a piece of cooked venison, and boil it down to obtain at least 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup). Strain, then blend it with 1 tablespoon reducrrant jelly and 2 tablespoons cream. Whisk, if the sauce is to accompany hare, mix 1 tablespoon hares’ blood with 2 tablespoons strained marinade and add this mixture to the reduced and strained sauce.

Saddle of roebuck grand veneur

Trim the saddle, then lard it with strips of bacon that have been marinated in Cognac with chopped parsley, salt, pepper and a little oil, Roast it and arrange on a serving dish surrounded by braised chestnuts or chestnut puree and dauphine potatoes.  Serve with a grand veneur sauce.

GRANITA A type of Italian sorbet popularized by Tortoni in Paris in the 19h century.  It is a half-frozen preparation  with a granular texture’s (bhence its name), made of a lightly sweetened syrup or a oil a syrup falvoured with coffee or liqueur. Unlike sorbet, granita does not contain any Italian meringue.

                It is served in sundae dishes or a glass bowl, either between courses or as a refreshment.

RECIPE

Granita

Make  a light syrup with fruit juice (such as lemon, orange, tangerine, passion fruit or mango) or very strong coffee.  Cool the syrup, then pour it into an  ice tray and freeze for 3-4 hours, without stirring.  The granita will then have a granular texture.

GRAP2.  The fruit of the vine, which grows in  bunched on a stalk.  The skin, which may be green, yellow or purple, encloses a sweet pulp with one to  four seeds . both white and black varieties are used  to make wine. There are also varieties cultivated as desert grapes, which are served as fresh fruit or  used in cooking, and other varieties are dried to produce raisins, stultanas (golden raisins) and currants .

                It is known that in the stone Age wild vines were already established in the Caucasus where they originated, as well  as in the Mediterranean region. Very early on people discovered how to make  a fermented drink from grapes. The cults of Osiris and Dionysus, as well as the biblical story of Noah, evidence of the antiquity of the cultivation of varies and the manufacture of wine. After the Greeks and  Romans, who learned the technique of drying grapes, came the Gauls, inventors of the cask. The  Gauls made great progress in the cultivation of vines, while later still monks throughout Europe became  progressively more adept in the art of winemaking. Throughout this period, fresh and dried  grapes were always  available.

                Grape juice, valued for its invigorating and purifying properities, gave rise to the cult of the ‘grape cure’ in France. A grape cure centre (called the Uvarium) was opened in Moissac in 1927; I 1930 a  grape centre was set up at the Saint-Lazre station in  Paris and sold the juice of 5 tonnes of grapes daily.  The development of bottled fruit juices led to the  disappearance of these public outlets, but in Aviagnon, Beziers and Narbonne freshly pressed grape juice is still sold curing the grape harvest.

                When buying dessert grapes, choose fruit that is clean ripe, firm and not too closely packed on the  stalk, which should be firm and crisp. The grapes  should be of equal size uniformly coloured and with the bloom still on. Ripe grapes do not keep  well; they can, however, be stored  for a few days in the  centre of a refrigerator, wrapped in a perforated  paper bag. They should be taken out an hour before they are required.

before they are eaten, grapes  should be carefully washed in water that has been slightly acidulated with lemon juice or vinegar. If served as a desert, they can be arranged in a basket or dish, alone or  with other seasonal fruits, together with a special pair of scissors designed  for cutting off small  bunches from the main stalk.

Grapes are also used in patisserie and other forms  of cookery.  Sole Veronique, created by Auguste Escoffer in 1903 and named after a comic opera, combines grapes with sole.  Chicken is often served with grapes in a similar dish.  Grapes are served with veal and duck livers, roast quails and thrushes and  boudin blanc. They  are used in fruit salads, tarts and  flans, jams (including raisine) and sweet rice dishes.  Grapessed oil, a table oil, is extracted from the  seeds.

RECIPES duck foie gras with grapes

Skin and seed 8 large white Muscat grapes for each slice of foie gras.  Slice the  foie gras fairy thickly, season the  slices with salt and pepper and sauté  them rapidly in butter.  Drain and keep hot.  Deglaze  the pan with a  small glass of Sauternes, Monbazillac or a liqueur wine and half thickened veal stock), then add the grapes and shake then bout in the pan. adjust the seasoning.  Pour the sauce and the grapes on to the foie grass and serve very hot.

Grape jam

Pick the grapes off the stalk, removing            any bad ones, and seed them the grapes are large. Weigh the fruit.  Weigh out 500 g (18 oz. 2 ¼ cups) granulated sugar for every 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) grapes. Put the sugar into a pan with 120 ml (4 ½ fl oz. ½ cup) water per 1 kg (2 ¼ lb.) grapes and dissolve it over a  low heat. Bring to the boil and boil for 4 minutes, then add the grapes and a split vanilla pod (bean).  Bring  back to the boil and skim the pan.  cook for 10 minutes over a medium heat, then 15 minutes over a low heat. Take out the grapes with a slotted  spoon and put them to one side. Boil the syrup to  a temperature of 107°C (225°F). see sugar, then replace the grapes and bring the pan back to the  boil.  Take off the  stove and pot in the usual way.

Grape tart

Make a tart pastry with 250 g (9 oz. 2 ¼ cups) plain (all-purpose) flour, a generous pinch of salt, 100 g  (4 oz., 1/2 cup) caster (superfine) sugar, 1 egg yolk, ½ glass water and 125 g (4 ½ oz., ½ cup) softened  butter.  Roll the dough into a ball and chill it for 1 hour. Wash and seed 500 g (18 oz) white grapes

                In a bowl mix 3 eggs with 100 g (4 oz, ½ cup) caster (superfine sugar and 250 ml (8fl oz. 1 cup) single (light) cream.  Beat the mixture with a whisk and while whisking gradually add 250 ml (8 fl oz 1 cup) milk them 6 tablespoons kirsch.

                Roll cut the dough and use it to line a 24 cm (9 ½ in) tart tin (pan).  prick the bottom with a fork, spread the grapes over the tin and bake in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°F, gas 6 ) for 10 minutes.  Pour the cream into the tart and continue to cook for 25-30 minutes (cover the tin with foil if the cram brown too fast).  Leave the tart to get cold, then unmould it on to a serving dish and sprinkle  with icing (confectioner’s sugar.

Muscat grape turtles

Make apate sablee (see short pastry), roll it out very thinly, cut out 4 circles 18 cm *7 in) in diameter  and use them to line 4 tartlets tins (pans).  Prick the bottom of each lined tin, leave to rest, then bake blind for 15 minutes.

                Mix together 250 mil (8 fl. oz. 1 cup) black Muscat grape juice, 150 ml ( ¼  pint, 2/3 cup) single (light0 cream 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) melted butter, 2 egg yolks, 2 whole eggs and 2 tablespoons sugar. Fill the  tarts with this mixture and bake in a preheated  oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4 ) for 20 minutes.

GRAPEFRUIT A large round citrus fruit, 11-17 cm (4 ½ - 7 in) in diameter, the most common varieties of which  have a yellow skin and a refreshing, slightly  acid-tasting pulp.  There are also pink varieties,  which have a pinkish-red tinge to the skin and pink flesh that is much sweeter. The grape fruit tree probably of the world’s crop is now grown in the  southern United States.

                The grapefruit is popular  as a breakfast food, usually cut in two, each segment being detached from  the skin with a special serrated knife with a curved point designed to loosen the segments. It is eaten either lain and fresh, or quickly grilled (broiled) after being brushed with melted butter and/or sprinkled with sugar.  Grapefruit is also an ingredient in cocktails and salads, and it goes well with  some rich savoury poultry and meat dishes.

                As a dessert, grapefruit can be used in ices, fruit salads, cakes and various sweet courses, in the same way as the orange.

                The fruit is also used to make marmalade, and the  juice is wildly consumed as a drink.

RECIPES

Grapefuit ices

Cut the tops off some graphefruit, hollow them out with a special grapfruit knife without  piercing the rind and separate the segments, press the segments (or put them through a blender, then strain) to  obtain the juice and use  this to prepare a grapefruit ice in the same  way as an orange ice. Put the grapefruit skins in the freezer.  When  the ice has just  started to freeze, fill the grapefruits  and return to the freezer until  the ice has frozen , transfer to the  refrigerator 40 minutes before serving.

Grapefruit salad

Mix grapefruit segments with fine  slices of apple  sprinkled with lemon juice, chopped celery and a few shredded lettuce leaves.  Dress with a little  yourt or al ight oil-based dressing.

GRAPA A mare brandy made in Italy from the residue of grapes  left after pressing. It should ideally be matured so that the harsh initial taste is refined. Grappa is made in a various regions and may be used for certain dishes, such as the Piedmontese specialty braised kid.

GRATER A flat, convex or cylindrical utensil with the surface perforated with holes of different sizes and shapes, some of them toothed. A solid substance is rubbed over the holes repeatedly to reduce it to  course or fine threads (cheese, carrots, celery) or to powder or very fine fragments (coconut, nutmeg, rind of citrus, Parmesan cheese).  A nutmeg grater is the smallest, bring 3 cm. (1 ¼  in) long white a cheese or vegetables grater may be 20 cm (8 in) long.  Some  graters are in the form of mechanical in which the interchangeable drums provide the gratinng  surface.  Food  processors are  equipped with grating accessories large quantities.

GRATIN The golden crust that forms on the surface of a dish when it is browned in the oven or put under the grill (broiler). Usually the top of the dish has been coated with grated cheese, breadcrumbs or  egg and breadcrumbs. Formerly, ‘gratin’ was the  crust adhering to the cooking receptacle, which was  scraped off (gratte in French) and eaten as a titbit.

                The term has been extended to denote a method of cooking fish, meat, vegetables, pasta dishes and even sweets.  The preparation is cooked or reheated in oven so that a protective layer forms on the  surface, improving the taste of the food and preventing it from drying up. This layer consists of strongly flavoured grated cheese (such as Gruyere or Pamesan) or breadcrumbs, sprinkled with melted butter. The length of cooking time depends on whether  the  dish is to be cooked from scratch or merely reheated or browned.  In all cases a number of rules apply us  dishes that the flume proof and can be transferred directly to the table; butter them generously sot that the preparation does not stick; if the dish is to be browned under the grill, it must already be  very hot; for a gratin that is to be fully cooked, the dish must be set on a metal tray separating it from the oven shelf or placed in a bain mrie.

                Gratins are served straight from the dish they are  cooked in. they are frequently made using minced  (ground) leftover meat, pasta and poultry, but the  method can also be applied to more elaborate preparations (lobster thermidor, scallops a la parisienne, sole au gratin, calve’s sweetbreads au gratin, crayfish).

RECIPES

Gratin dauphinois

Peel and thinly slice 1 kg 92 ¼ lb)  potatoes and arrange them evenly in a generously buttered dish. Mix 2 whole eggs with a little milk, add 1 teaspoon salt, then whisk together  with 600 ml (1 pint, 2 ½ cups (warmed milk or cream. Pour this mixture over the potatoes and dot with knobs of butter. Cook in a preheated oven at 220°C (425°F, gas 7)  for about 50 minutes, if necessary protecting the top of the dish with foil towards the ends of the cooking period.

                The bottom of the dish can be rubbed with garlic, and a little  grated nutmeg may be added at the same  time as the salt.  Grated Gruyere may also be  added: one layer on the bottom of the dish and another  on the top.

Gratin languedocien

Half-cook  in oil 4 peeled and sliced aubergines (eggplants), seasoned with salt and pepper, and  12 halved, seasoned tomatoes. Arrange them in  alternate layers in a flameproof dish. Cover with a  mixture of breadcrumbs, chopped garlic and parsley. Sprinkle with olive  oil. Begin cooking on the top of the stove, then bake slowly in preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 4) until the top is well browned.

Gratin of beetroot in verjuice

Slice 1 kg (2 ¼ lb) raw beetroot (beets) and cut into sticks. Cook in a white stock and drain without cooling. Gently heat 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾  cup) single (light) cream without boiling, whisking all the time.  Remove from the heat. Mix together half a glass of  verjuice obtained  by pressing a large bunch of sour  white grapes, 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoons chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Gradually add this mixture  to the cream. Arrange the vegetables in a baking dish and cover with the sauce.  Sprinkle  with grated Cantal cheese, add very small knobs of butter and cook  au grafin by placing the dish in a very  hot even for a few minutes until the top is browned.

Gratin of sardine filelts with lemon juice

Wash 800 g (1 ¾  lb) sardines and wipe them dry with paper towels. Remove the fillets with a kitchen knife and place the fish in buttered roasting tin (pan), skin side down. Put the rind (zest) of  1 lemon and 100 g (4 oz. ½ cup) crème fraiche in a  bowl.  Season with salt and pepper and the juice  of 2 lemons. Stir and pour over the sardines. Cook in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) for 7-10 minutes. Serve with toasted bread.

Gratin savoyard of frog’s legs

Allow ½ pairs of frog’s legs per person. Trim  them, season with salt and pepper, dip in milk and then   lightly flour, fry in butter with shallots and a little  chopped garlic, then drain and arrange  them in a fairly large baking dish. Dilute the pan juices with mandement wine (from the Cote de Mandement on the right bank of the Rhone, in the canton of Geneva) or with a fruity white wine; reduce and pour over the frog’s legs.  Sprinkle with chopped chives and parsley, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over them.  Mix together 250 ml (8 fl. oz .  1 cup) double (heavy) cream, 75g (3 oz. ¾  cup) grated Gruyere cheese and 2 egg yolks Season with salt and pepper and pour over the frogs’ legs. Brown under the grill (broiler) and serve garnish with a few fluted slices of lemon.

Macaroni gratin

Bring 2.5 litres (4 ¼  cups) macaroni and cook for 5 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon sot ht the macaroni  do not stick.  Remove  from the water, drain and hold under cold running water to cool them.  Place them in a bowl and cover with milk. Cove and place in the refrigerator for ½ hours. The following day, take out the macaroni.  Season with salt and pepper. Stir well, pour into a gratin dish and smooth the top with ah wooden spatula. Sprinkle  with 75g (3 oz ¾  cup) grated gruyere cheese and dot 25 g (1 oz.  2 tablespoons) butter, cut into small pieces, across  the top. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F, gas 54) for 10 minutes, then place under a medium hot grill (broiler) for 1 minute. Serve very hot.

Polenta gratin

Dice 2 boneless chicken breasts.  Chop 2 onions and 75 g (3 oz. ½  cup) olives very  finely.  Season and 75 g (3 oz. ½ cup) olives ver finely.  Season with salt, pepper and chopped fresh coriander  (cilantro) and fry until golden. Remove from the  eat. Now brown 2 chopped  onions and 2 tomatoes, peeled , seeded and crushed, and 250 g (9 oz, 1 ¾  cups) polenta  (cornmeal) in the olive oil. In a roasting tin (pan), put a layer of chicken, then a layer of polenta. Continue this layering price.  Arrange the vegetables in a baking dish and cover with the sauce. Sprinkle with grated  cantal cheese, add very small knobs of butter and cook au gratin by placing the dish in a very hot oven  for a few minutes until the top is browned.

Gratin of sardine fillets with lemon juice

Wash 800 g ( 1 ¼  lb ) sardines and wipe them dry with paper towels.  Remove the fillets with a kitchen knife and place the fish in a buttered roasting tin (pan), skin side down.  Put the rind (zest) of 1 lemon and 100 g (4 oz. ½  cup) crème fraiche in a  bowl.  Season with salt and pepper and add the juice  of 2 lemons. Stir and pour over the sardines. Cook  in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°¼ , gas 9) for 7-10 minutes, serve with toasted bread.

Gratin savoyard of frog’s legs

Allow 12 pairs of frogs’  legs per person. Trim them, season with salt and  pepper, dip in milk  and then lightly four. Fry in butter with shallots and a little chopped garlic, then drain and  arranged them in a  fairly large baking dish.  Dilute the pan juices with Mandement wine (from the Cote de Mandement on the right bank of the Rhone, in the canton of Geneva) or with a fruity white wine; reduce and  pour over the frog’s legs.  Sprinkle with chopped  chives and parsley, then squeeze the juice of a lemon over them.  Mix together 250 ml (8 fl. oz. 1 cup) double (heavey) cream, 75 g (3 oz. ¾  cup) grated Gryere cheese and 2 egg yolks.  Season with salt and pepper and pour over the frogs’ legs.  Brown under the grill (broiler) and serve garnished with a few fluted slices of lemon.

Macaroni gratin

Bring 2.5 litres (4½  pints. 11 cups) salted water to  the boil.  Add 300 g (11 oz. 2 ¾  cups) macaroni and cook for 5 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon so that the macaroni do not stick. Remove from the water, drain and hold  under cold running water to cool them. Place them in a bowl and cover with milk.  Cover and place in the refrigerator for 12 hours.  The following day, take out  the macaroni. Season with  salt and pepper. Stir well, pour into a gratin dish and smooth the top with  a wooden spatula.  Sprinkle  with 75 g (3 oz.  ¾  cup) grated Gruyere cheese and dot 25 g 91 oz. 2 tablespoons) butter, cut into small  pieces, across the top. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350¼ , gas 4 ) for 10 minutes, then place under a medium hot grill (broiler) for  1 minute.  Service very hot

Polenta gratin

Dice 2 boneless chicken breasts.  Chop 2 onions and 75 g (3 oz. ½  cup) olives very finely. Season with salt, pepper and chopped fresh coriander  (cilantro) and fry until golden. Remove  from the  heat. Now brown 2 chopped onions and 2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and crushed, and 250 g (9 oz. 1 ¾  cups) polenta (cornmeal)  in the olive oil. In a roasting tin (pan), put a layer of chicken, taken a layer of polenta.  Continue this layering process until al the ingredients have been used up. Gratine in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°¼ , gas 9) for 5 minutes and serve very hot.

GRANTEE Onion soup poured into a tureen or individual casseroles made of ovenproof  porcelain,  topped with dried bread and  grated cheese and cooked au gratin in a very hot oven.  Gratinee is a  Parisian specialty, traditionally served for late supper  in the bistros of Montmartre and the district around the Halles.

                In general, the cheese used is Gruyere, Comte or Emmertal, but gratinee can also be made with cantal or Bleu d’ Auvergne

RECIPES

Gratince

Peel and finely slice 4 large onions. Heat 40 g ( 1½  oz. 3 tablespoons) butter and 4 tablespoons of in a shallow frying pan.  add the onion and stir with  a wooden spatula until they are golden brown.. sprinkle with 25 g (1 oz, ¼  cup) flour and stir until brown.  Add 200 ml (7 fl. z. ¾  cup) dry white wine,  reduce for a few minutes over a gentle heat, the pour in 1 litre (1¾  cups) water or stock. Season with salt pepper, add 2 small crushed  cloves of garlic and a bouquet garni, then bring to the boil and cook very gently for 1 hour.

                Meanwhile, in the oven dry some slices of bread cut from a long, thin French loaf.  Mix 3 egg yolks  with 6 tablespoons Madiera or port .  preheat the  oven to 220 °(425°¼ , gas 7 )  and put a bain marie into it. When the onion soup is cooked remove  the bouquet garni, gradually add the mixture of egg yolks and Madeira, then divide the soup among 4 individual open proof soup bowls.  Generously sprinkle the dried slices of bread with Gruyere and  arrange on the surface of the soup.  place the soup bowls in the bain marie in the oven and cook until the top of the bread is well browned.   Serve immediately.

Gratinee de poires aux pistaches

Bring to the boil 1 litre ( 1 ¾  pints, 4 ½ cups) water with 1 vanilla pod (bean) cut into two, 200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) caster (superfine) sugar and 2 tablespoons lemon juice. Peel and core 6 ripe but firm pearls. Poach gently. Allow to cool. Make  a crème potasiere (confectioner’s custard) with 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) milk, I vanilla pod cut in two, 20 g (¾  oz.  2½ tablespoons) plain (all-purpose) flour., 3 egg  yolks and 70 g ) 2¾  oz. 5 tablespoons) sugar. Place  in a bowl, add 1 tablespoon pear brandy and when  it is almost cold, 3 tablespoons whipped cream. Beat 1 egg yolk with 25 g (1 oz.  2 tablespoons) sugar  until the mixture foams and turns a paler yellow. Incorporate 1 tablespoon pistachio nuts and 2 tablespoons whipped cream. Drain the  pears and cut them in the shape of a fan but still attached.  Cut 1 vanilla pod into  matchsticks.  Put  some crème pastisiere on to each plate and place a pear in the  middle. Sprinkle icing (confectioner’s) sugar on the pears without going over the edge. Place the plates under the grill ( broiler) to brown  the fruit. Pour some pistachio cream evenly around the pears and draw marbling patterns with the  point of a knife.  Now sprinkle the edge of the plate with icing sugar and chopped pistachio nuts. Place a  spoonful of ice cream next to each pear.  Decorate with vanilla matchsticks and serve immediately.

GRATE PAILLE A rich COW’S-milk cheese (70% fat)  made with both pasteurized and aunpasteurized milk in the He-de France. Produced in brick shapes  about 8 cm (3 in) high, the cheese ah a beige molted rind and an oily texture. The flavour is very rich and  creamy.

GRATTONS Also known as gratterons. The name  given in certain regions of France to the residue of melted  pork or goose fat containing small pierces of meat, which is eaten cold as an hors d’oeuvre also friton.) Grattons from Auvergne are strips of pork neck and fatty meat cooked together, them pounded or minced (ground) and pressed in a mould.  Lyonnais grattons are formed  into rissoles  and not moulded. Bordaux grattons combine  melted pork fat and lean pork. In Odeurs de foret et Flumets de table, charles Forot gives the recipe for  vivarais grattons.  The  pork fat, cut into small pieces, is melted for 5-6 hours over a very low heat. When it has completely melted, it is put into jars. Salt, pepper, spices, chopped pursley and a pinch of grated  garlic added to the remains of meat left on  the  bottom of the pan. this mixture is stirred for a long time so as to mix together  the ingredients and  flavours, then it is put in a stone jar.

                Goose grattons are obtained during the preparation of confit, by draining  the residue  of  goose fat  and the tiny fragments of flesh while they are still hot. They are them pressed, sprinkled with  fine salt and eaten cold.

                Grattons can also be pieces of fatty pork cooked until crisp (craclings).

GRAVES Red and white AOC Bordeux wines from the gravelly vineyards mostly to the south of  the city of Bordeaux, along the left bank of the River  Garonne and down into the landes. The area  was often considered  as two regions the northern part, particularly famous for red wines, and the southern region, abutting and enclosing the Sauternais. In 1987, however, an area of the Graves region, which included a number of the famous properties and the southern parts of Bordeaux, was formed into  a new  appellation.  Pessac Leognan. The graves region, which was named after the type of ground (gravel and sand), is possibly the oldest part of the Bordeaux vineyard to have been planted.

                The red wines are made from the same grapes  as other red wines of the Bordeaux area: Cabernet Sauvignon, cabernet Franc and Merlot.

                The white wines of the Graves, more  numerous than the reds, are made from the same grapes as Sauternes  -- Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle  -- and they are basically of two types the truly dry wines and Graves Superior, which are sweet wines.  They dry whites are excellent accomplishments to fish.

GRAVES DE VAYRES Red and white AOC  wines  from the left bank of the Dordogne, in the Entre-Deux-Mers region, the whites being dry, the reds lighter in style. They should not be confused with the  wines coming from the Graves region itself.

GRAVLAS Also known as gravad lax. This classic Scandinavian dish of salmon pickled with salt, sugar and dill, originates from an ancient methods of preserving fish by burying it.  Over a period of few days the fish would  ferment and become slightly sour, but when buried for weeks or months it would begin to decay.

                Gravlax is prepared by filleting the fish and laying one fillet, skin side down, in a dish, then topping it with a pickle mixture of sugar, pepper and dill before covering with the second fillet. The fish is weighted down and allowed to pickle for 4-10 days in the refrigerator.  Every day the fish  is turned and  basted with the pickle liquid (which develops as the  sugar and salt draw out the   juices in the salmon and  dissolve).  The  pickle mixture is scraped off before  serving.

                Gravlax may be served thinly or thickly sliced, usually with a slightly sweetened sauce of mustard and dill.

               

GRAVY Cooking juice, usually from meat extended with stock or other liquid and thickened with a roux or  another starch. The excess fat is removed and a  small amount retained to make a roux before  liquid is added. Alternatively, the pan can be deglazed with wine or other alcohol, or  little stock, then more  liquid may be added and boiled until reduced to a slightly syrup consistency. Gravy may also be thin, but full-flavoured.

GRAYING ombre A freshwater fish similar and  related to the trout: it is  distinguished by its small mouth and its dorsal fin. Weighing about 1.12 kg. (2½ lb) and 4-50 cm (16-20 in ) long, it has  a good flavour and its cooked in the same way as trout. It  will not travel or keep, however, and  must  be cooked and eaten without delay.

GREASING The process of coating a baking sheet, cake in (pan) or mould with cooking fat to prevent the preparation from sticking to the container during cooking to enable it to be removed easily.

GRECQUE, A LA Describing dishes of Greek  origin but more loosely used for dishes inspired by Mediterranean cuisine. Vegetables a la grecque are cooked a marinade flavoured with the live oil and  lemon and served cold, either as an hors d’oeuvre or an entrée.  Pilaf a la grecaque consists of rice mixed with sausage, peas and cubes of pepper. Fish a la grecque is coated with a while  wine sauce flavoured with celery, fennel and coriander seeds.

RECIPES

Marinated fish a la grecque

Gently cook 100 g (4 oz. 1 cup) finely chopped onions in 150 ml (¼  pint 2/3  cup) olive oil without browning them.  Add 150 ml (1/4 pint. 2/3 cup) white  wine, 150 ml ¼ pint. 2/3 cup) water and the strained juice of a lemon.  Add 2 finely shredded (bell) peppers, I crushed garlic clove and a bouquet garin (consisting of parsley, a sprig of thyme, a bay  leaf and a sprig of fresh fernnel). Season with salt and pepper boil for 15 minutes. Pour piping hot over the selected fish, allow to cool and keep in the  refrigerator. This quantity of sauce is sufficient for 500 g (18 oz.)fish.  Suitable  fish include sardines and  red mullet.

Sauce a la grecque for fish

Heat a finely sliced quarter of a celery heart and 3 finely sliced  onions in 3 tablespoons olive oil.  Add a bouquet garni (including a sprig of fennel), 6 tablespoons white wine and 12 coriander seeds.  Boiling down by two-thirds and add 6 tablespoons thin veloute sauce and the same quantity of single (light) cream. Boil down by one-third. Blend in 50 g (2 oz., ½ cup)  butter and strain before serving.

                The veloute sauce may be replaced by an equal volume of strained fish furnet and 1 tablespoons beurre manie, added in small knobs to the boiling liquid, which is whisked for 1-2 minutes.

Stuffed tomatoes a la grecque

Soak 125 g (4½ oz, scant 1 cup) sultanas (golden raisins) in a little tepid water until they swell, then  drain. Heat 4 tablespoon olive oil in a saucepan and add 200 g (7 oz. 1 cup) rice; stir until the grains became transparent.  Then add to the rice twice its  volume of boiling water, a pinch of powdered  saffron, I teaspoon salt, pepper, a pinch of cayenne  and a bouquet garni. Bring to the boil and simmer gently until the rice  is cooked.  Slice off the tops of 6 large tomatoes, remove the seeds and pulp and  lightly season the insides with salt. Place the tomatoes upside down in a colander to drain.  When the rice is cooked, drain and cool, add the sultanas and  adjust the seasoning.  Dry the tomato  cases, put I teaspoon oil in the bottom of each and fill them with the mixture  of rice and  sultanas.  Replace the tops. Arrange  the stuffed tomatoes fairly close together in a baking dish.  Pour a little oil in the bottom of the dish and cook in a preheated oven at 240°C (475° ¼, gas 9).  Remove the tomatoes from the oven before they become too soft and serve immediately.

Vegetables a la grecque

Choose very fresh tender vegetables, such as aubergnes (eggplants), cardoons, mushrooms, cauliflower, courgettes (zucchini(. Fennel, artichoke  hearts and small onions. Small onions may be  left whole, but the other  vegetables should be washed  thoroughly and cut into fairly small pieces so that they can be cooked properly. They should be  sprinkled with lemon juice if there s a risk of  discoloration.  Make a court-bouillon by boiling  6 tablespoons olive oil, 750 ml (1¼  cups) water and the strained juice of 2 lemons with a bouquet garni (consisting of parsley, celery, fennel, thryme and bay leaf), 12-15 coriander seeds and 12-15 peppercorns for 20 minutes.  Lightly brown the vegetables  in a little olive oil, then pour over  the very hot court-bouillon and finish cooking. Add 2 tablespoons concentrated tomato puree (paste) to the court-bouillon if desired.

GREENEGAGE A type of plum with a green skin, sometimes tinged with yellow, red or purple, and greenish-yellow, sweet flesh with good flavour; there are many different strains.  Greengages are delicious eaten fresh and make good jam. They can also be bought canned in syrup.

                The French name, reine-Claude, is an abbreviation of prune de la reine Claude (Queen Claude’s plum), because the fruit was dedicated to Claude of  France, wife of Francis I.

GREMOLATA A flavouring mixture used in Italian cooking, consisting  of  chopped parsley, grated  lemon rind (zes) and finely chopped garlic. The fresh mixture is sprinkled over cooked dishes just before  serving to introduce a fresh, zesty flavour. It  is the classic final flavouring and garnish for osso  buco, the veal stew cooked on the bone.

GRENADIER Fish of the Macrouridae family, which  lives in the deep waters of the Atlantic; it is  fished from Greenland to the bay of Biscay. It is  identify by its tapered body, which  ends in a  point. The flesh is very white, and the boneless fillets are ideal for making fish mousse.

GRENADIN A small slice of fillet of veal, about 2 cm (¾  in).  thick and 6-7 cm (2 ½ -3 in) long, cut  from the loin, the filelt or the chump end of the loin. Grenadins are usually interrelated with best larding bacon and then grilled (broiled), fried or even  braised.  A small unbarded grenadin of veal fried in  butter  is called a noisette. Grenadins may also be cut  from white turkey meat.

RECIPES

Braised veal grenadins

Trim four 100 g (4 oz) grenadins and interlard with  bacon fat. Butter a casserole dish and line it with unsmoked bacon rinds or pork skin with  the fat  removed.  Peel  and finely slice a large carrot and a medium-sized onion and brown them in butter, with any trimmings of meat from the grenadins. Put  the vegetables on top of the bacon rinds. Arrange the  grenadins on top on, cover and cook gently for 15 minutes.  Add 200 ml (7 fl. oz., ¾  cup) white wine  and boil down almost completely. Then add a little stock, bring to the boil, cover the casserole dish and cook  in a preheated oven at 200°C (425°¼ , gas 7) for about 40 minutes, basting the meat several times.  Arrange  the grenades on an overproof serving dish, coat them with a little of the strained cook juice and glaze in the oven.  Dilute the cooking juices in the casserole with consmme, strain and remove  the fat. Boil down further if necessary and pour the sauce over the genadins. Serve with buttered spinach.

Fried grenadins in cream

Season four 100 g (4 oz) grenadins with salt and pepper and sauté  them in oil until brown on both sides.  Reduces the heat, cover  and cook gently for about 15 minutes until tender.  Drain the grenadins and keep them hot in a serving dish. Remove  the cooking oil, from the pan and add 200 l (7 fl oz. ¾  cup) white wine or cider.  Scrape the pan with a spatula, add a small sprig of tarragon and boil down to reduce  by half. Remove the tarragon, add 200 ml  (7 fl. oz, ¾  cup) single (light) cream, and boil down, stirring continuously.  Adjust the seasoning and pour the sauce over the grenadins.

GRENADINE A refreshing drink made of water and grenadine syrup.  The latter was originally made from pomegranates only, but today it contains vegetable, matter, citric acid and certain red fruits.

     Grenadine syrup is used as a colouring agent for cocktails, diabolos and aperitifs.

GRENOBLOISE, A LA Prepations of fish a ala meunic’re, garnished with capers and finely diced lemon flesh.  Criutns may also be added.

GREUBONS Residue made after gently rendering pork fat to make lard.  These coloured fragments, also known as rillous or greubons in the Jura, are used in making a savoury.

GRIBICHE A cold sauce based on mayonnaise in which the raw egg yolk is replaced by hand-boiled (hard-cooked) egg yolk.  Capers, fines herbes and the chopped white of a hard-boiiled eggs are added. Gribiche sauce is served with calf’s head (tete de vesti) or cold fish.

RECIPES

Gribiche sauce

Thoroughly pound or mash the yolk of a hard-boiled (hard-cooked) egg and gradually add 250 ml (8 ft. oz. 1 cup) oil, beating constantly and keeping the mixture smooth   as for a mayonnaise. As it thickens, add 2 tablespoons vinegar, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon each of capers, chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon, and the white of the   hard-boiled egg cut into julienne.

GRIDDLE A flat cast-iron cooking plate, traditionally known as a bakestone or girdle. Used lightly  greased to cook  griddle cakes, such as Welsh cakes, some types of scones, including potato scones; small thick pancakes or drop scones; and crumpets.  Heavy cooking plates of this type, varying in size and shape, are used in many countries. For  example, in Britanny they are used to cook galettes and crepes, in India  they are used to cook flat breads, such as chapaths; and in Malaysia they  are used to make murtabak, a filled  roti made from  finely stretched  dough enclosing  a savoury filling.  A heavy frying pan is usually used instead  of a griddle in modern kitchens.

GRIFF A French cut of beef consisting of the muscle between the shoulder and the neck.  When food being placed between them. It is especially useful for sardines, sausages or small cutlets, which  are often difficult to turn over on a ordinary grill.  Some grills consist of a cast-iron or sheet steel plate  that  is placed in direct contact with the  hotplate  or burner of the stove.

                Electric or gas grills consist of burners or infrared  elements.  They may be situated above the until or in the roof of the unit. This type of grill is effective only if the  heat radiation is intense.

GRILLADE The French name for food that has been grilled (broiled), particularly meat.

                A prime French cut of pork taken from along the blade bone or loins and usually is also known  as a grillade.  These cuts are scarce, because there are  only two per pig, weighing 400-500 g (14-18 oz), a  grillade is slightly fatty, tender an dtasty and is characterized by long  by long fibres, which are cut crossways before cooking Grilades are fried or grilled over a medium heat.  They  may also be coated with egg and  breadcrumbs, stuffed or rolled into large paupiettes.

GRILLING A method of cooking by intense heat the nourishing  juices being sealed into the meat by the crust  formed on the surface.  The fuel traditionally used for grilling is small charcoal (known as  braise in France). The charcoal, when thoroughly alight, is spread out to form a bed in bed in a gail pan with a well-regulated draught.  This bed of charcoal varies  in depth according to the size and kind of meat to  grilled. The food is cooked over the hot coals.  When  using a gas or electric grill, the food is usually cooked under the heat source.

                The grill must be scrupulously clean and heated before the meat is laid upon it or under it. The  food  to be grilled must be based with clarified butter, oil  or fat, and seasoned.  Meat should be gently flattered and trimmed before cooking.

                Fish should be scored with a knife, well coated with  butter and oil and seasoned.  Fish that  is rather dry has  a tendency to stick to the  bars of the grill and should, therefore, be floured before  being croated with butter  or oil.  This will form a covering that will enable the  fish to cook without  becoming too dry.  Turn grilling  meat  or fish over once  or twice during cooking and baste frequently with the butter or oil, using a brush.

                Grilled food is ready when it  resists pressure it lightly  touched with the fingertip.  Tiny pinkish droplets appearing on the browned surface are another  indication that it is fully cooked. Grilled white meat should  be less browned than red meat  and a less intense heat should be used. Grill fish at moderate heat and baste frequently.

                Grill poultry first if it is to be cooked in breadcrumbs. When three-parts cooked, cover with the butter or oil and roll in the breadcrumbs.

§  Gridding This is a form of cooking on a very hot, preheated surface, typically a heavy fluted griddle.  In  America this is known as grilling. The technique  produces a result similar to that achieved by grilling and differs from frying in that the fat drains away into a ridge around the edge of a griddle; also the  temperature is so fierce that the food seals and cooks rapidly.

GRILL-ROOM also known simply as a grill. A restaurant or room where, in theory, only grills are served. It is  usually used to describe a restaurant in a  larger hotel, where the service is faster and the meals are less elaborate then in the  large dining room.  The  name was first used in England in the 1890s.

GRIMOD DE LA REYNIERE, ALEXANDRE BALTHASAR LAURENT French writer  and gastronome (born Paris, 1758; died  Villiers-sur-Orge; 1837).  His father, who was a farmer-general, was himself the son of a pork butcher. Born disabled, with one hand shaped like a claw and the other like  a gooses’s foot, the boy was rejected by his aristocratic mother  and eventually rebelled against his  entire family. While  pursing his law studies, his extravagant  behaviour made him quite notorious.

§  Taste for scandal. Shortly after becoming a qualified  barrister, the young Alexandre,  who had already pubilshed Reflexious philosophiques sur le plaisir par  un celibataire, organized  a memorable dinner at the end of January 1783. He sent the following  invitation card to his guests. You  are invited to attend the  funeral procession and burial of a feast that shall be  given by Master Alexander balthasar Laurent Grimond de la Reyniere, Esquire, barriester to the high court,  drama correspondent of the  journal de neuchatel, at  his residence in the Champs-Elysees.  You are invited  to attend at nine o’clock in the evening and the meal will be served at ten’ Bachaumont, in his Memoires secrets, relates the details of this curious dinner: ‘ In the middle of the table… there was a cataflaque….. we took our seats at the table.  The meal was  magnificent, consisting  of nine courses, one of which was entirely of pork.  At the end of this  course.  Monsieur de La Reyniere asked his guests whether they had enjoyed it; after everyone had replied in chorus ‘excellent’, he said : “Gentlemen, those cooked means were from  Mr. So-and-so, the  pork butcher, living at  such-and-such a place, who is  the cousin of my father.”  After another  course where  everything was prepared with oil, the host again asked his guests if they were pleased with the oil, then said;   “it was supplied by Mr. So-and-so, the grocer, living at such-and-such a place, who is  cousin of my father. I recommend him as highly as I do the pork butcher.”  By proclaiming the plebejan origin of his paternal forebears, Alexandre, who was  indeed the grandson of a pork buthcer, simply aimed to upset his mother, but at the same time the  managed to gain a reputation as a madman, which he carefully fostered.

He  held gatherings in his father’s residence twice a week.  Bestowed with literature, he invited not only Beaumarchais,  Chenier and Restif de la Bretomme, but also would-be poets and public  letter-writers.  The  sole qualification for admission was the ability to drink 17 cups of coffee, one after the other. The  food served was simply bread  and butter with  anchovies and, on Saturday, sirloin.  At this stage in his life,  Grimond was passionately fond of the theatre; he became one of the best drama critics of this time.

§  From retreat to the grocery business.  Following a particularly shocking scandal, the young barriester’s  family obtained an order against him under the king’s private seal.  In April 1786 Alexandre was sent to a Cistercian monastry near Nancy, where he spend  three years. It was at the table of the abbot the Grimond discovered the art of good eating, and his knowledge of this improved of this improved in Lyonand Beziers, where he next took refuge.

In order to make a living, he decided to set up in  business. In the Rue Merciere, Lyon, he started a business. In the Rue Merciere, Lyon, he started a business selling groceries, hardware and perfumery. Then  he traveled through  the fairs  in the south of France.  But the death of his father in 1792 brought him back to Paris. He renewed his ties with his mother , whom he saved from the gallows, and endeavored to pick up a few fragms its of his father’s estate, including the  mansion in the Champs-Elysees, where  he again organized extravagant dinner parties.  At the same time he  resumed his drama criticism. But Talma, whom he had  often attacked. Managed to have his review le  censeur dramatique suppressed.

§  A vocation for gastronomy Banned from drama criticism, Grimond turned to writing about restaurants.  This gave rise to the series Almanach des gourmands (1804-12), an anecdotal and practical guide  to Paris, including a food guide that proved to be  very successful. In 1808 grimod published Manue des amphitryons to instruct the new rich in the conventions and properties that they must observe.  In his Varieties nuiritives he wrote the following soup must be eaten boiling hot and coffee drunk piping hot -  happy are those with a delicate palate and a  cast-iron throat. The local wine, a dinner at your friends house and music performed by amateurs are  three things to be equally dreaded – cheese is the biscuit of drunkards.’

Grimod de la Reyniere established  his authority  on gastronomic matters by setting up a jury of tasters, who awarded a kind of academic certificate called legitimation to various dishes or foods that  were presented to them.  They jury of tasters met  at intervals at Grimod’s home in the Champs-Elysees.  There, they solemnly tasted the choice dishes sent by tradesmen who sought publicity by making  known to their customers the judgement always favourable, pronounced by this gastronomic Areopagus. Among the  most influential members of this jury  were Cambaceres, the marquis of Cussy and gastaldy, doctor and gastronome, who died  at table when he  was almost a hundred years  old!  Gastaldy conceived  an original way of classifying  wines: the king – Chambertin; the queen – Romance-Conti; the regent -  clos-de-Vougeot; the princes of the blood – Romance, Romance-Saint-Vivant, Clos-de-Tart, Musgny, La Tache, Nuits-Echezaux,  Bonnes-Mares, the first  cousin of Chambertin – Reichebourg.  However, the jury of tasters soon had to give up its sittings because some of its judgements around protest Grimod was even accused of partiality!

Threatened with lawsuits, Gromod had to suspend pubilcation of the Almanach.  His mother had died, and he inherited the remains of vast fortune. He  married  the actress with whom he had been living for 20 years and  retired to the country to live among his life long friends the Marquis of Cussy and Doctor Roques.  He died one Christmas Eve, during the midnight feast, and left, among other extravagances, the following recipe for an ‘unparalleled roast’, punctuated with references to the actresses of his time: ‘Stuff an olive with  capers and anchovies and put it in a garden warbler.   Put the garden warbler in an ortolan, the ortolan isn a lark, the lark in a thrush, the trush in a quail, the  quail in alarded lapwing, the lapwing in a plover, the plover in a red-legged partridge, the partride in a  woodcock – as tender as Mlle Volnais – the  woodcok in a teal, the teal in guinea fowl, the  g ilnea folw in a duck, duck in a fattened pullet – a  white as Mlle  Belmont, as fleshy as Mle vinne and as fat as Mle Contat – the pullet in a pheasant, the pheasant in a duck, the duck in a turkey  - white and fat like Mle Arsene – and finally, the turkey in a bustard.’

GRIS DE LILLE A soft cow’s-milk cheese from Flanders (45% fat), also called Purant Macere and Vieux Lille.  It is very similar to maroilles, with a pale pinkish-grey washed rind, and is matured by soaking in brine and washing with beer. It is sold in slabs 12-13 cm (5 in) square and 5-6 cm (2-2 ½ in) thick. It has a highly seasoned, salty taste and a very strong smell; it is known as ‘the stinkes’.

GRISSINI Italian bread sticks. Long, thin and crunchy, they are made from a dough containing butter or oil and sometimes eggs or malt. They were  first made in Turin and are either eaten as appetizers  or served  with soup or pasta dishes.

GROG A Traditional winter drink, made with a mixture of boiling water, rum, sugar (or honey) and lemon. The rum may be replaced by Cognac, Kirsh or whisky.

                Originally, grog was simply a glass of rum topped up with water. Its  comes from ‘Old Grog’, a nickname borne by Edward Vernon, a British Admiral, because of the grogram clock he used to wear. In 1776 he ordered his crew to put water in their ration of rum.

                The name may also be sued informally in Australia) for any alcoholic drink

GROS-LANT A white wine from the lower reaches of the River Loire, made from the grape of tehsame name 9also called Folled Blanche). Pale in colour, it is light in character and very dry, a pleasant wine to drink with seafood and shellfish.

GROUPER merou A  Large marine fish that can  grow to a length of more than 1.5 m (5 ft) and weigh about 50 kg (110 lbs.). it is a member of the sea perch  family.  There are two closely related species: one is found in the Mediterranean: the other, also called  stone bass or wreckbass (cornier in French), is more  widespread, also occurring in the Atlantic, it is  brown, speckled  with yellow and has an enormous head (representing one-third of its weight), a wide  mouth with a protruding  bottom lip and numerous  teeth.  A peaceful fish that prefers the warm seas of the Carebbean and Mediterranean, it is a  favourite catch of underwater fishermen. It is rarely sold by fishmongers, although its flesh is excellent. It is  cooked like tuna but is particularly tasty when  grilled over charcoal.

RECIPES

Ceviche of grouper

Clean  and trim 4 groupe steaks of 200 g (7 oz) each.  Cut into 1 cm (1/2 in) cubes. Squeeze the juice from 4 limes.  Place the diced dish in a large  salad  bowl sitting on a bed of ice cubes. Sprinkle the lime juice on the fish and allow to marinate for 2-3 hours, stirring several times  to cook the  grouper, which  must remain pink in the middle. Drain and place in a large bowl.  Peel and finely chop diagonally 4 spring onions (scallions) and their stems, Peel, seed and crush 3 cherry tomatoes.  Add all these  ingredients to the fish.  Season with salt and add ½  teaspoon freshly grated ginger, 1 pinch turmeric, chives and chopped flat-leaf parsley.  Pour olive oil on  top and sprinkle with paprika. Stir well and serve.

Grouper with corcellet sauce

Trim, gut and clean a small group, popach it in very concentrated court-bouillon, and allow it to cool in the stock. Take out the fish, remove the skin and  garnish with blanched tarragon leaves and thin slices of tomato.

                Finely chop 6 large, very ripe, peeled and seeded tomatoes and rub then through a sieve. Store the  resulting fresh tomato puree in the refrigerator. Just  before serving, add 2 generous tablespoons anseed-flavoured  Corcellet mustard to the tomato puree.  Serve  well chilled.

GROUSE Any of several game birds belong to  the same family. They resemble fowl and are mostly ground living.  British species  include the red grouse,  the black grouse and the capercaillie. The common  French species is the hazel grouse (gelinotte), and  the pin-tailed grouse (ganga) is found in the south of France 9this species has very delicate flesh and  is  usually spit-roasted). In North America there are  many species, including the ruffed grouse, blue grouse and sage grouse.

                Grouse may be roasted, braised or made into pates or terrines.

RECIPE

Roast grouse

Mash 50 g (2 oz. ¼  cup) butter with 2 tablespoon  lemon juice, salt and pepper. Wipe 2 plump or  4 small prepared grouse and place some of the butter inside each bird.  Cover the breasts of the birds  with bacon and tie in place, then  wrap each birds in foil.  Place the birds, breast side down, on a rack resting in a baking tin (pan) and roast in a preheated oven at 200°C (400°¼ , gas 6) for about  25 minutes for small birds and 35 minutes for larger ones. While the larger ones. While  the birds  and 35 minutes for the larger ones. While  the birds are roasting fry the  grouse livers in butter, then mash together to make paste.  Fry  2-4 slices of bread, crusts removed, in  a mixture of butter and oil until crisp and golden. Spread these croutons with the liver paste.  Unwrap the birds, baste each one well with hot fat, then dust the breast with flour, baste again and return to the oven for about 5 minutes until well  browned.  Serve the grouse resting on the croutons, garnished with watercress. Serve hot game chips and rowan or redcur ant jelly separately. The birds should be moist enough to serve without gravy.

GRUEL A liquid food made by boiling a cereal  flour in milk, water or vegetables broth.  Gruel  is one of the oldest forms of nourishment. The  Egyptians made gruel from millet, barley and wheat the Roman legionaries was usually gruel made from wheat and the related cereal, spelt, together with  onions, salted fish and cheese. The Germans and Franks ate gruel made from oat. In the French provinces, the evening meal traditionally consisted of maize (corn) or buckwheat gruel.

GRUMEAU A French word meaning a small lump, also used to describe  a clot of blood, a coagulum formed in milk or the lumps found in a lumpy sauce or batter.

GRUYERE A Swiss or French cow’s-milk cheese 45% fat content) with a firm but pliable  texture and  a brushed and washed rind. It takes about six  months to mature in a damp cellar and has nutty flavour.  It is ivory yellow or golden or golden brown in colour.

                Gruyee is made in Switzerland from unpasteurized milk in the cantons of Fribourg, Neuchatel and aud; in France, it is manufactured in Savoy, Franche-Comete and  Burgundy.  By analogy, the word is often incorrectly used in France for all cooked  compressed cheeses sold in large rounds, including Emmental, Beufort and Comte.

                According to the Swiss, Gruyere cheese  is named after the Counts of Gruyere, whose coat of arms was embellished with a crane (grue) and who settled in  the Gruyere valley in the canton of Fribourg at the  beginning of the 9th century (in France, Swiss Gruyere is called ‘Frilbourg’). The French believe that  the word comes from agent gruyer, an officer of the waterways and forestry authorize who, in the Middle Ages, used to collect certain taxes in the form of  timber and cheese.

                Gruyee cheese that are exported are less salty than  those made for local consumption, and to enhance  the pungent flavour of this excellent cheese the Swiss preserve it is a cloth soaked either in salt water or in white wine.  The  cheese is made in  cheese factories in the mountains, close to the  features. It keeps   for a very long time if uncut. Some  connoisseurs demand a very mature cheese; others prefer it to be fairly fresh. It is eaten at the end of meals or in sandwiches and is used to prepare many dishes, such as fondues, grains, souffles, croutes, croque-monsieur and mixed salads; it also served as  a condiment for pasta and rice.

                Gruyere is used to make processed cheese called Crème de Gruyere.  This is also made from Comte  cheese and is sold in small triangles wrapped in silver paper. Grauyere de comte is one of a number of  Gruvere-type cheers made in the  United State  and all  over Euorope. For a long time, a type of Gruyee cheese was  manufactured in the Jura, but  Gruyere de Comte manufacturers themselves now insist that the appellation Gruyere de Comte be replaced simply by Comte.

GUACAMOLE A dip originating in Mexico and consisting of avocado, tomato, onion, lemon juice and spices. It is usually eaten with totopas, maize (corn chips.

GUAVA A fruit originating in Central America and the West Indies but now grown in many tropical  countries. There are several varieties:  some are  pearshaped, some are apple-shaped, and some are shaped  like walnuts.  The thin yellow skin of the guava is dotted will black spots when ripe and sometimes mottled with green; it covers an orange-pink, white or  yellow pulp. Highly flavoured and refreshing, yet  rather sour, it contains a large number of hard seeds.  The variety called ‘pear of the Indees’, which is the size of a hen’s egg, is the most popular. It is imported  from Brazil and the West Indies (December to January) or from India and the Ivory Coast (November to  February).  When  it is ripe it is eaten on its own, after being peeled and seeded (it may be flavoured with sugar or a little rum). It is  also used to make drinks, ice creams and jellies. In Brazil the pulp collected when making jelly is often used to make a firm jellied  fruit paste or cheese, which is sliced and served as a  dessert with fresh goat’s-milk cheese. Guava  is also preserved in syrup and is included in exotic fruit salads.  In China there is a variety called the  strawberry guava, which is the size of a walnut, with a white, black, yellow or red skin and a strong flavour.

GUDGEON A small freshwater fish with a large head, thick lips and very  delicate flesh.  Formerly abundant, gudgeon were  a speciality of the small eating houses on the  banks of the Seine and Mame that served fried food; Fulbert Dumnteil described it as  that small fish – a crunchy tasty mouthful, and  stated: ‘In a good lunch, there is no second course more delicate than a splendid plateful of fried gudgeon, skillfully browned.’

                Gudgeon must  be gutted (cleaned), wiped but not washed, dipped in milk or beer, than drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, rolled in flour  and  deep-pried.  As soon as they  are crisp and golden, they are drained sprinkled with fine salt and served with lemon as an hors d’oeuvre. If the fish are fairly large they are fried twice, first in oil that is at the  correct temperature to cook them, then in very hot oil to brown them.

                By  extention, goujons or goujonnettes is the name given to fillets of sole and other fish cut diagonally into strips, coated, fried and served like gudgeon or  used as a garnish.

GUELON A mixture consisting of eggs, milk and  sugar, to which cream or buttermilk or even flour is sometimes  added. It is used to enrich fruit tarts,  combining with the cooking juices.

GUIGNOLET A cherry liqueur made from a specific  variety of cherry, from around the River Loire. It is one  of the liqueurs of Anjou and, in the region, is  sometimes combined  with kirsch. It is  quite different from the cherry brandies of other areas and should not be confused with kirsch, which is a distillate of the fruit and an alcool blanc.

GUUILLOT, ANDRE French chef (born Faremoutiers, 1908 died 1993).  Apprenticed at the age of 16 in the  kitchens of the Italian Embasy, Guillot later pursued  his  career in various private houses; his employers included Raymond Roussel, an extremely rich epicurean who had  his early fruit and vegetables brought from the Cote d’Azur in a Rolls-Royce, and  the Duke of Auerstaedt.  From 1952 he worked at the  Auberge do Vieux-Marly, which he turned into a  restaurant of great renown. After retiring, he wrote about his experiences and recorded his expertise  in  La Grande Cuisine bourgeoise (1976) and in la Vraie Cuisine legere (1981).

                He was outspoken and did not hesitate to attack well-established traditions ‘I am certain to annoy many restaurateurs when I say that all these flambe dishes set a light under the custom’ers noses are no more than  play-acting.  The  flambe process must be carried out at  the start of cooking, in the privacy of the kitchen.

GUINEA FOWL A  gallinaceous bind, all domesticated varieties of which are descended from an  African species that  was known as appreciated by  the Romans, who called a Numidian hen or  Carthage hen. Before  the introduction of modern rearing method in France, young guinea fowl (pintadeaux) – a speciality of the Drome region  - were  sold at Whitsun (the seventh weekend after Easter) at about 11 weeks old, while adults, weighing over 1 kg (2 ¼  lb), were killed in the autumn.

                Guinea fowl are now bred all the year round. In France are solid with a red label guaranteeing  their origin, feeding and rearing. The term fermier  (free-range) is reserved for birds reared with access to runs, as opposed to those that are battery reared.  The most tender and succulent birds are the young pintadeaux. They can be  roasted and prepared in the  any way suitable for  a young pheasant, partridge or chicken.  The flesh of the adult guinea fowl is firmer and is usually fricasseed or prepared in any other  way suitable for chicken, being well basted, barded and larded or casseroled to keep the flesh moist.

               

RECIPES

Breast of guinea fowl with potatoes Alex Humbert

Prepare  800 g (1 ¾ lb)  potatoes by the Alex Humber method : slice thinly and soak in cold water for  about 10 hours, then cook for approximately 20 minutes in 150 g (5 oz., 2/3 cup) clarified butter  seasoned with salt and pepper.  Drain off the excess butter and brown the potatoes in the oven.

                Remove the breast meat from 2 guines fowl, each weighing about 1.5 kg (3 ¼ lb), slicing along the  breastbone. Season with salt and pepper. Heat 100 g (4 oz. 7 tablespoons) butter in a large flameproof casserole and brown the guinea fowl breasts on both sides (8 minutes in all), then remove. Add  4 chopped shallots to the casserole.  Cook them for a few seconds and then mix in 50 g (2 oz, 1 cup) fresh breadcrumbs to absorb al the cooking butter. Brown slightly and stir in 3 tablespoons wine vinegar, then add 5 chopped basil leaves.  Put to one  side and keep warm.

                On to each of 4 warned plates. Pour 2 tablespoons previously made brown gravy, place some of the potatoes in the centre and cover with a guinea  fowl breast cut into 5 or 6 slices.  Give one twist of  the pepper mill and add a little salt.  Finally, sprinkled with the breadcrumb mixture and serve immediately.

Guinea fowl Catalan style

Blanch 30 peeled garlic cloves for 1 minute, having first removed any green part. Peel 3 lemons and remove all the pith. Cut 2 into quarters an slice the third one. Blanch them for 1 minute. Roast a guinea  fowl, barded with a few thin slices of salted or  smoked breast of pork. Cut the guinea fowl into pieces. Deglaze  the roasting tin (pan) with 100 ml  (4 fl oz. 2 cup) of Rancio  or dry Banyuls.  Add the  crushed carcas of the bird and 200 ml (7 fl. oz. ¾ cup) of veal stock. Simmer for 10 minutes, strain through a chinois, pressing in order to extract all the  juices.  Pour this sauce on to the  garlic and  lemons, and return to the hear for a few minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Place the pieces of guinea fowl in the sauce and cook over a low heat for 10 minutes. Serve  with steamed or roasted new potatoes or with rice.

Guinea fowl salad with fruit

Roast half a guinea fowl weighing about 1 kg (2 ¼  lb) for approximately 30 minutes.  Leave to cool completely. Wash and dry some radiccio leaves, and  cover the serving dish with them. Peel and finely slice 1 Granny Smith apple and 2 peaches. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Arrange these items on the bed of lettuce, together with the finely sliced meat of the  guinea fowl and 25 g (1oz, ¼  cup) blackcurrants. Blend 150 l (¼   pint, 2/3 cup ) plain yogurt with  1 tablespoon cider vinegar, seasoned with salt and  pepper.  Cover  the guinea fowl with the this dressing.

Guinea fowl  with chest nuts

Cut 2 small guinea fowl in half lengthways. Brown  them in hot butter in a flameproof casserole, together  with 150 g (5 oz. ¾ cup) diced belly of  pork and 3  chopped shallots. Cook gently for  approximately 40 minutes, turning occasionally, then dilute  the meat juices  with 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) red Burgundy.  Add a bouquet  garni and   300 g (11 oz) cooked  chestnuts.  Cook gently for a  further 10 minutes. Remove the bouquet garni, bind the sauce with 75 g (3 oz. 6 tablespoons( butter, adjust the seasoning and serve  hot straight from the casserole.

Stuffed guinea follow Jean Cocteau

Draw a guinea  fowl weighing about 1 kg ( 2 ¼ lb ) and put the liver  and gizzard to one side. Soak 100 g (4 oz., 1 ¾ cups) fresh breadcrumbs in hot milk, then.  Mix with 1 raw egg, 1 chopped tarragon, chives, chopped parsley and  chervil, then  the liver and gizzard, also chopped.  Stuff the guinea  fowl with this forcemeat and season the outside lightly with salt and pepper. Sew it up, bard it and tie firmly, then fry in a flameproof casserole containing 15 g (1/2 oz. 1 tablespoon) butter and 1 tablespoon oil. When the guinea fowl begins to turn a golden colour, remove it from the casserole and  place on a dish , then sprinkle with 100 ml (4 fl oz. ½ cup)  heated Cognac and set alight.

                In the same casserole place 3 carrots and 3 onions chopped into large pieces and 2 crushed  garlic cloves. Leave to cook for a few moments, then  return the guinea fowl to the casserole.   Moisten with 250 ml (8 fl oz. 1 cup) each white  wine and Cognac. Add 100 ml (4 fl oz., ½  cup) water, cover the casserole and cook for 45 minutes over a gentle heat.

                Use a fork to prick 4 boudins blancs and 4 black puddings (blood sausages0, place them with 1 tablespoon a oil in a flameproof dish and grill (broil).  Peel, quarter and core 4 applies and brown them in a  sauté  pan with a little  butter. Season very lightly  with  salt.  When  the  guinea fowl is ready, carve it and arrange on a warm dish.  Cover with the  strained cooking liquid, sprinkle  with chopped herbs and surround with the  grilled puddings and  apple quarters.

GUINEA PEPPER The name is sometimes applied to cayenne pepper, but it is usually an alternative term for Melegueta pepper.

GUINEA PIG The guinea pig has long been a source of food in Peru. Ecuador and Bolivia where it is known as cuy or cui.  Peruvian Incas kept domesticated guinea pigs as a source of food.  European explores named this rodent, a species of cavy (carry porcellus), the guinea pig and introduced it to Spain in the 16^th century. It was considered a delicacy at  first, but it did not become an established source of food.  Guinea pig is cooked in South America, West Africa and the Philippines, by grilling or simmering in a rich stew.

GUINGUETTE  A type of French suburn tavern, usually situated n pleasant surroundings. Where people go to eat, drink and dance  on public holidays. Some etymologists believe that the name is  derived from guinguet, a rather sour wine cultivated in the Paris suburns; other is  might  be derived  from the Old French guinguer (to jump), which  has given rise  to the French word guincher (to dance) in the 18^th century ginguettes were spread out  along the Seine, in the district of the Tuileries. Their name is especially linked to the Romantic period, when they were found outside  the gates of Paris and on the Hilltops of Belleville.

GULAB JAMUM An Indian speciality. a dessert or milk which is boiled until greatly reduced and condensed. A little  flour is added and the mixture is rolled into  small balls. These are deep-fried in ghee or oil until  golden and then macerated in a syrup flavoured with  rose water, cardamon or vanilla.  The gulab jamun may be flavoured with spice or stuffed with a filling of nuts and dried druits before being shaped.

GUM a viscous, translucent substance that exudes from certain plants.

§  GUM ARABIC secreted from  acacia trees in Sudan and Egypt.  The basic ingredient of chewing gum, marshmallow and liquorice, it is also used to glaze some items of confectionery and as a clarify stabilizer in the  chemical treatment of wines.

§  GUM TRAGACANTH The most mucilaginous kind of gum, extracted from shrubs of the genus Astragalus.  It is used in the manufacture of stabilizers, emulsifiers and thickeners for the food industry.  It prevents  crystallization in ice cream and jam. Gutar gum produced by a leguminous plant, can be sued for the same purposes as gum tragacanth.

Gums extracted from some algae are also used in cooking, as well as synthetic gums.

GUMBO An American stew or beauty soup featuring in Creole and Cajun  cooling. A  stew of mixed ingredients, including vegetables, okra in particular, with onion. (bell) peppers, tomatoes and garlic. Fish, crab, oysters, poultry, meat and/or spicy sausage may be added. The okra acts  as a thickening agent (okra is also known as gumbo in West Africa) but it is not an essential ingredient in all recipes for gumbo (and there are  many).  File  powder, made from ground sassafras leaves,  may be  added as well as or instead of okra to thicken and flavour gumbo.

GUMPOLDSKIRCHNER A wine town  Thermenregion, Austria, producing good white varietal wines, particularly from Zierfandler and  Rotgipler grapes

GUARNARD Grondin also known as gurnet.  Any of  several European fish of the family Triglidae. The  French name, meaning ‘grunter’, derives from the  gruntign sound the fish is said to make when it comes  out  of the water. In Britain it is also called  sea robin. All gurnards have a cylindrical body, a spindle –shaped tail, a large head protected by bony plates, an elongated muzzle and a wide mouth. The  pectoral fins are finger-shaped and  are used to  explore the muddy sea bed.  They are 2060 cm  (8-24 in) long and their weight varies between 100 g  (4 oz) an d1.25 kg (2 ¼  lb). there are several types of gurnard, which are mainly distinguished by their  colour: the cuckoo gurnard is red mottled with green, the grey gurnard  is brownish-grey, the red gurnard and the  trigle lyre are pink or red, with  lighter coloured bellies.

                The fish should always be carefully trimmed with the fins removed. The flesh is lean, white, firm and  sometimes rather tasteless, but it is rich in protein, iodine and phosphorus.  It is usually poached or  used in soups and bouillabaisse. It can also be  cooked in the oven or even grilled (broiled), but in this case the fish must be protected, because the  fragile skin is damaged by excessive heat.

                Gurnard is  often sold  in France as red mullet, but although it has a delicate flavour it cannot  really be  compared with this fish. However, all recipes for red  mullet are suitable for gurnard.

RECIPE

Baked gurnurd

Choose 2 good quality gurnards, each weighing  about (400 g (14 oz). Draw, clean and dry them. Score oblique cuts on the back of each fish from the backbone outwards and pour in  few drops of  lemon  juice. Butter a gratin dish and spread in it a mixture of 2 large onions, 2 shallotts and 1 small  garlic clove, all very finely chopped. Sprinkled with  chopped parsley.  Place the fish in the dish and add 200 ml (7 fl oz. ¾ cup) white  wine and 50 g (2 oz. 4 tablespoons) melted butter.  Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with a little  rhyme. Arrange slices of lemon along the backs of the fish and sprinkle with chopped fresh  bay leaf.  Bake in a preheated oven at 240°C (475°F, gas 9) for about 20 minutes, basting the fish several times during cooking.

                Just  before serving, flame the gurnards with 4 tablespoons heated pastis.

GUT To remove, by hand r mechanically, the  innards, including the giblets, of an animals, bird or fish.

GYOZA Japanese name for Chinese-style  dumplings. Circle  of dough are folded into little  pastries over the  filling, which usually consists of well-seasoned  minced pork with vegetables. The  dumplings are fried  in a little fat, then a small quantity of water is added  and the pan is covered so that the dumplings ar steamed until cooked through. The gyoza are served freshly cooked, with a dipping  sauce. When cooked by frying and steaming, the  dumplings re known  as pot stickers or pan stickers. They may also be deep-fried, steamed or simmered in broth.

GRYO Greek spit-roast lamb. Minced (ground lamb is shaped on a vertical spit and cooked in front of a heat source. The  meat is sliced off the outside  as it is cooked, then served in pitta bread, with  onion, tomato, lettuce and tzatziki (cucumber in yogurt) or a yogurt) or a yogurt sauce . rolled up in the bread, with  its accompanimetns, gyro pita is a popular snack.

GYROCEPHALUS RUFUS gyrocepbale rousatre A funnel-shaped mushroom, split at the side and orange – pink to reddish-brown.  It grows in damp meadows and under conifers.  Fleshy and tender it is  eaten raw in salads when unripe; otherwise it can be  eaten only after thorough cooking.